Very nice video! I have 135K miles on my 2000 300M so I wanted to size up the job of changing my timing belt and water pump. After watching your video, I figure it may take me a couple of evenings. Thanks for posting it.
Good job. Short cut- don't pull the harmonic balancer. By removing the small plate on the bottom, remove the 3 bolts. You can sneak out/in the belt. Twist it in/out.
I just wanted to say thank you. I watched your video and it was awesome! It gave me the courage to take on this challenge. You saved me a lot of money........And the video was clear and detailed. Great Job all around!!
Real Nice video. Nice clear speech no ums after every word. I have a lot of water dripping from the botom of where thoe=se covers would be my guess its a broke or dried up oring on the water pump I hope nothings cracked
*GREAT video*.......wish this guy was my neighbor so he could stop by and help me do my car......btw the 24 thumbs down must be from mechanics that would rather charge us $700 + $300 for the parts to do this
@@rodneyroberts thanks Rodney......I am way up north on the Olympic Peninsula and my 1999 Chrysler 300M is past due since it has almost 140,000 miles on it......your video made it look easy and I used to have the tool you used to pull that one part off but it has been decades since I used it so I probably would never find it but if I was 20 years younger I would do this myself but these days I keep trying to find a mechanic that makes house calls......with no luck.....and I have several other cars (and a 1976 4X4 Power Wagon) but the 300M is the car I drive these days no matter what the weather is.......so maybe you should move up here since I think there is a house for sale across the road :-D ......out in the country as we say.......in the middle of my 5 acres (wish it was 100) ua-cam.com/video/2gp1xaw2DVc/v-deo.html
did you remove the idler before the belt, it looks like you threw in the clip were you remove after because it magicaly appears while you remove it? around 9:15
Great video, I just bought a 2002m special from a neighbor that passed away. The car only has 58k miles on it and is like new. At what milage should I think about replacing the timing belt and water pump on this car? Is it a milage thing or a years thing or combination of both?
@@rodneyroberts The thinner A.C. belt looks great but the alternator belt I'm assuming is original as it still had a Mopar logo on it and when I looked closer under a light I noticed hairline cracks all over it... Was planning on just replacing those two belts but if that belt looks bad my timing belt is probably about the same right? I've never done a timing belt but I just replaced the Transmission solenoid as I started getting delayed shifts and a check engine code that stated I had a stuck valve in the solenoid... The transmission fluid was great looking however so I just cleaned the valve body and hooked up the new solenoid with new fluid and it's been shifting perfect ever since. I think because the car sat for a year might have been the reason for the stuck Valve. Anyways your video really is giving me the confidence I need to take on this job, I figure if I can get it done myself this car will easily last another 5 years or 50k miles.
Great video. Thank you. I'm using it now to work on my car. One thing I'd like to point out is that there is a puller specifically for chryslers that fits perfectly: OEMTOOLS Chrysler Harmonic Dampener Puller Part Number: 27139 I borrowed one from O'Reilly. They did, however, give me a wrong sized timing belt. I'm not sure what the issue is there, but the guy told me that it was what their system recommended. I still have to figure that part out
Don't see that as a benefit, you don't want the water pump moving around. The o-ring can slip and cause a leak and you will need to go through all this again. They must be talking about a different engine because with this one you will do more harm then good if you follow that advice.
well if i did the job yesterday and the car is running fine then i guess i did the job corectly? thanks for posting this video. I have a huge mechanical background but never changed a timingbelt/water pump
I've got a problem that I can't find an answer to.. my left one lines up in the lines perfectly but my right one will not go in between the the dots it's like it's spring loaded if you know what I mean it has tension when I turn it the the tension releases I can turn it three time for a full revolution but it falls in the same spot each time it's approximately 4 inches off and no matter how many times I turn it it always falls in the same places any advice
Were you changing the belt due to normal maintenance or because the belt slipped? If the belt slipped then you will need to take the valve cover off to get everything in time and check the valve train for proper operation. This is an interference engine so if the belt slipped you could be looking at damage.
The belt snapped and yea it's interference and that it most likely caused a lot more damage but I'm just throwing on a new belt to see what happens if the engine is too messed up I'm just going to junk it and buy a new car it's not worth it to replace valves cylinders piatons etc..
Thanks I'm gonna need it lol.. btw Is there any way to take the pulley off without a special tool.. I'm actually on my way to rent the tool right now from autozone but I'm just curious if there is another way.. I'm referring to the pulley on the crank
@@royjones7523 When you pull the pin out it should extend and push the pulley into the belt. If it doesn't extend after the pin was pulled then the cylinder is faulty.
Hello Rodney I’m about to purchase a 300m and do this job I’m going g to buy a day o kit that has he belt pump camshaft belt tensioner pulley actuator and seals where and what seals are to be replaced and can I get away without replacing the hydraulic tensioner also will this work for a 2003 300m special. Thank you I hope to hear back from you . Great video by the way
This is a 300 Special.. You can reuse the old tensioner just insure you push the plunger back in slow so you don't blow the internal seals. I didn't use the oil seals because I didn't remove the gears, you shouldn't need them if you are just replacing the belt, pump and pulley. Great car, I've had great luck with mine bought new in 02. I also had to replace the CV shafts due to the boots cracking. If you need to replace yours I can give you some helpful assistance in removing the shafts from the transmission. The radio is also one of the needed upgrades. I installed both front and rear cameras. The front bumper is low and doesn't like curbs.
Rodney Roberts thank you very much for you advice I’m going to purchase a Dayco timing belt kit that includes off that expect the value cover gasket and tensioner rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F391939788776 I hope this is all I will need considering it is the first time for the replacement for the car and mine is also a special 2003
I would recommend replacing the pulley. If it fails you will likely loose everything, remember this is an interference engine meaning the valves can hit the top of the pistons if the timing belt slips as the engine is running
Rodney Roberts thank you this is the first time the job has been done is there anything else I should replace while I’m at it besides tensioner pulley idler pulley timing belt and water pump? Any gaskets or value cover or seals? Also are the other nets vanity and ac important to replace? Thanks
My tensioner pully bracket will not pivot on pivot bolt. I tightened to spec and it will not move i tried it with the washer and without the washer still it barely gets snug and it stops pivoting and the belt is still pretty loose when i push the pully againt the belt till belt is snug then tighten to soec the pully bracket isnt even touching the fully extended and installed hydraulic tensioner... any ideas
Ryan, I know this is a 3 year old post, but I thought I would give it a shot. This is the exact same issue I am having, torque to spec and it will not pivot on the bolt or without some strong force to get it to move. Did you by chance figure what the issue was? Thanks!
Great vide. Can u guys help me? I broke 11 belts in my 300m, only because by poor tightening this big middle pulley. How to tighten it? In my car it don't want to be close to the engine block.
Appreciate the tips! ...You should get an Amazon affiliate account to link to specialty tools like the 3” puller & anything that a novice would not have in their toolbox. Why not get a commission for them clicking on your links 🤘
first off that is a 200 i have a 2006 chrysler 300 with a hemi 5.7 l and it looks totally differant no problems bought it used and it is in mint condition couldn't be happier with it my belt is in good shape but i noticed a nick on top of belt not wore or old just a new tiny nick on top not all the way thru what should i do cold weather is coming and the 1 i am taking it in can i drive it though short distance i don't stomp i baby it
When you pull the pin it is supposed to release the pressure for it to push the pulley arm into the belt. If nothing happened when you pulled the pin the cylinder is faulty.
If you pull the covers and turn the crank until it aligns with the mark and one of the other marks on the cam are not between the dots then it has slipped. You might need to turmoil the crank twice to align. It turns twice to every cam turn.
@@rodneyroberts I ended up tapping it with a hammer and I used my dewalt impact to bolt it back on. Really great video nonetheless. I was working on one at 2am trying to figure how to install the pulley
You can try to put like rubber bands on the other end to assist in pulling the jaws out and insure the puller is adjusted so the jaws fit snug when installing. If the puller is loose it is very hard to install. You can also get another set of hands to assist holding the jaws in place as you screw it in.
Was your water pump leaking or was this a general maintenance? I am trying to figure out if my brother's 300m is the water pump. Intermittent coolant leak. It drips from the front support member under the car. It has 101k on the engine. Any thoughts on confirming the leak. I'm thinking about removing the crank pulley and checking for leaks.
How about a house-call so you can do this on my 1999 Chrysler 300M ??........it is probably past due and you look like the best at doing this. (I would have to wait around here for months to get the appointment and then leave my car at the local place and I don't trust anyone that much)
Chrysler (Sebring/Concorde/300) 2.7L timing replacement (Cloyes kit# 9-0397SA) this is for the timing chain but you will need to know that if you do the water pump. The water pump is driven by the timing chain like the belt in the 3.5.
I got this new and have had great luck. Most cars I'm ready to let go of after 4 years but I still like this car as much as the day I got it. I'm looking for another 100,000 miles. This is serviced every 4000 miles.
I bought my 99 300m new as well. I drove it for 7 or 8 years and then gave it to my sister for the past 10 years, but got it back about a year ago. It wasn't maintained as well as I did when I had it, so I have had to rehab it bit by bit. I just replaced the cam and crank sensors, battery, a/c, control arms and tie rod ends, brakes, new tires and an alignment, and it runs great now. I am concerned about the timing belt as it has about 115K miles on it. I guess I'll add this to the list of things to work on this summer! Most of what it needs is cosmetic, but I still love the old girl!
@NStrats-gf8hq 1 year ago Thumbs down because you didn’t show how to unplug the stupid fan, just showed a picture. Onto the next vid If you can't unplug a fan this might not be the job for you.
This is one of the best how to videos ive seen on UA-cam. Period, well done.
I own one of these awful 300’s and this is the best video I’ve ever found on it. You saved my butt big time. Thank you so much!
Great Video. Definitely helps more than anything I've ever seen.
Very nice video! I have 135K miles on my 2000 300M so I wanted to size up the job of changing my timing belt and water pump. After watching your video, I figure it may take me a couple of evenings. Thanks for posting it.
Good job. Short cut- don't pull the harmonic balancer. By removing the small plate on the bottom, remove the 3 bolts. You can sneak out/in the belt. Twist it in/out.
Thanks for the video! My first timing belt and water pump! Was successful because of your video.
Good instructional video for the timing belt replacement. Thanks for being direct and accurate without a bunch of Chit Chat
This dude gets straight to the point. Much appreciated!
I just wanted to say thank you. I watched your video and it was awesome! It gave me the courage to take on this challenge. You saved me a lot of money........And the video was clear and detailed. Great Job all around!!
Man you give a very good DIY video on this timing chain and water pump replacement almost in real time too thanks so much.
Hey just wanted to say thanks I follow this video step by step also bought a repair manual but this help me do the job and safe a lot of money 💪
Could you make a list of all the tools required for this job? Thanks 🔧
Real Nice video. Nice clear speech no ums after every word. I have a lot of water dripping from the botom of where thoe=se covers would be my guess its a broke or dried up oring on the water pump I hope nothings cracked
Helluva video man. I'm about to do this on my Prowler, and I'll be relying on this heavily. Thank you!
Nice work Rodney, thanks for publishing
*GREAT video*.......wish this guy was my neighbor so he could stop by and help me do my car......btw the 24 thumbs down must be from mechanics that would rather charge us $700 + $300 for the parts to do this
Would be glad to assist if you were local. Always will to help people that are willing to help themself
@@rodneyroberts thanks Rodney......I am way up north on the Olympic Peninsula and my 1999 Chrysler 300M is past due since it has almost 140,000 miles on it......your video made it look easy and I used to have the tool you used to pull that one part off but it has been decades since I used it so I probably would never find it but if I was 20 years younger I would do this myself but these days I keep trying to find a mechanic that makes house calls......with no luck.....and I have several other cars (and a 1976 4X4 Power Wagon) but the 300M is the car I drive these days no matter what the weather is.......so maybe you should move up here since I think there is a house for sale across the road :-D ......out in the country as we say.......in the middle of my 5 acres (wish it was 100) ua-cam.com/video/2gp1xaw2DVc/v-deo.html
very good attention to detail. much appreciated.
Excellent video👍👍👍
Awesome video
did you remove the idler before the belt, it looks like you threw in the clip were you remove after because it magicaly appears while you remove it? around 9:15
No I just flipped it up to get to the bolt easier.
Excellent video. Thank you
Excellent video👍
Great video, I just bought a 2002m special from a neighbor that passed away. The car only has 58k miles on it and is like new. At what milage should I think about replacing the timing belt and water pump on this car? Is it a milage thing or a years thing or combination of both?
Chrysler recommends at 100k I'm not sure about age. At only 58k how do the external belts look?
Great car, very well built.
@@rodneyroberts The thinner A.C. belt looks great but the alternator belt I'm assuming is original as it still had a Mopar logo on it and when I looked closer under a light I noticed hairline cracks all over it... Was planning on just replacing those two belts but if that belt looks bad my timing belt is probably about the same right? I've never done a timing belt but I just replaced the Transmission solenoid as I started getting delayed shifts and a check engine code that stated I had a stuck valve in the solenoid... The transmission fluid was great looking however so I just cleaned the valve body and hooked up the new solenoid with new fluid and it's been shifting perfect ever since. I think because the car sat for a year might have been the reason for the stuck Valve. Anyways your video really is giving me the confidence I need to take on this job, I figure if I can get it done myself this car will easily last another 5 years or 50k miles.
Thanks was a great video
I can’t get this 3-jaw clamp remover behind the pulley
Great video. Thank you. I'm using it now to work on my car. One thing I'd like to point out is that there is a puller specifically for chryslers that fits perfectly: OEMTOOLS Chrysler Harmonic Dampener Puller
Part Number: 27139
I borrowed one from O'Reilly. They did, however, give me a wrong sized timing belt. I'm not sure what the issue is there, but the guy told me that it was what their system recommended. I still have to figure that part out
My mistake. It is the proper belt. Anyway. Thanks again for the awesome video!
@Rodney Roberts also other people suggest to not snug water pump until you throw on the belt for correct adjustment?
Don't see that as a benefit, you don't want the water pump moving around.
The o-ring can slip and cause a leak and you will need to go through all this again. They must be talking about a different engine because with this one you will do more harm then good if you follow that advice.
thank your for your reply that make sense
well if i did the job yesterday and the car is running fine then i guess i did the job corectly? thanks for posting this video. I have a huge mechanical background but never changed a timingbelt/water pump
Many thanks, glad this video helped.
I've got a problem that I can't find an answer to.. my left one lines up in the lines perfectly but my right one will not go in between the the dots it's like it's spring loaded if you know what I mean it has tension when I turn it the the tension releases I can turn it three time for a full revolution but it falls in the same spot each time it's approximately 4 inches off and no matter how many times I turn it it always falls in the same places any advice
Were you changing the belt due to normal maintenance or because the belt slipped?
If the belt slipped then you will need to take the valve cover off to get everything in time and check the valve train for proper operation. This is an interference engine so if the belt slipped you could be looking at damage.
The belt snapped and yea it's interference and that it most likely caused a lot more damage but I'm just throwing on a new belt to see what happens if the engine is too messed up I'm just going to junk it and buy a new car it's not worth it to replace valves cylinders piatons etc..
It's worth a try. Good Luck!
Thanks I'm gonna need it lol.. btw Is there any way to take the pulley off without a special tool.. I'm actually on my way to rent the tool right now from autozone but I'm just curious if there is another way.. I'm referring to the pulley on the crank
You will need a puller, everything is aluminum, nothing to pry against.
I don’t understand why you didn’t use lighting in this video . It would have been great ...
What kit should i use
Love the video need to know wat the tool is that u pulled the wheel off with
From Amazon, Mofeez 3" 4" 6" inch 3-Jaw Gear Puller - Gear Removal Tool for Slide Gears, Pulley, and Flywheel 3pc Set
The thing with the pain and it's not pushing on the will to give the belt any tension what did I do wrong
@@royjones7523 When you pull the pin out it should extend and push the pulley into the belt. If it doesn't extend after the pin was pulled then the cylinder is faulty.
Hello Rodney I’m about to purchase a 300m and do this job I’m going g to buy a day o kit that has he belt pump camshaft belt tensioner pulley actuator and seals where and what seals are to be replaced and can I get away without replacing the hydraulic tensioner also will this work for a 2003 300m special. Thank you I hope to hear back from you . Great video by the way
This is a 300 Special.. You can reuse the old tensioner just insure you push the plunger back in slow so you don't blow the internal seals. I didn't use the oil seals because I didn't remove the gears, you shouldn't need them if you are just replacing the belt, pump and pulley.
Great car, I've had great luck with mine bought new in 02. I also had to replace the CV shafts due to the boots cracking. If you need to replace yours I can give you some helpful assistance in removing the shafts from the transmission.
The radio is also one of the needed upgrades. I installed both front and rear cameras. The front bumper is low and doesn't like curbs.
Rodney Roberts thank you very much for you advice I’m going to purchase a Dayco timing belt kit that includes off that expect the value cover gasket and tensioner rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F391939788776 I hope this is all I will need considering it is the first time for the replacement for the car and mine is also a special 2003
Also do I need to replace the idler pulley?
I would recommend replacing the pulley. If it fails you will likely loose everything, remember this is an interference engine meaning the valves can hit the top of the pistons if the timing belt slips as the engine is running
Rodney Roberts thank you this is the first time the job has been done is there anything else I should replace while I’m at it besides tensioner pulley idler pulley timing belt and water pump? Any gaskets or value cover or seals? Also are the other nets vanity and ac important to replace? Thanks
My tensioner pully bracket will not pivot on pivot bolt. I tightened to spec and it will not move i tried it with the washer and without the washer still it barely gets snug and it stops pivoting and the belt is still pretty loose when i push the pully againt the belt till belt is snug then tighten to soec the pully bracket isnt even touching the fully extended and installed hydraulic tensioner... any ideas
Ryan, I know this is a 3 year old post, but I thought I would give it a shot. This is the exact same issue I am having, torque to spec and it will not pivot on the bolt or without some strong force to get it to move. Did you by chance figure what the issue was? Thanks!
Great vide. Can u guys help me? I broke 11 belts in my 300m, only because by poor tightening this big middle pulley. How to tighten it? In my car
it don't want to be close to the engine block.
Not sure what your asking, the crank shaft pulley?
@@rodneyroberts Yes.
Trying to tighten, I start to move the pistons, i have to block the engine ?
Appreciate the tips! ...You should get an Amazon affiliate account to link to specialty tools like the 3” puller & anything that a novice would not have in their toolbox.
Why not get a commission for them clicking on your links 🤘
Didn't even know that was possible.
Rodney Roberts yes ...just sign up fir Amazon affiliate & you’ll get a custom tracking link ...you get commissions for referring people when they buy
first off that is a 200 i have a 2006 chrysler 300 with a hemi 5.7 l and it looks totally differant no problems bought it used and it is in mint condition couldn't be happier with it my belt is in good shape but i noticed a nick on top of belt not wore or old just a new tiny nick on top not all the way thru what should i do cold weather is coming and the 1 i am taking it in can i drive it though short distance i don't stomp i baby it
This is a 300M, in 2005 they changed to body style of the 300.
Sounds like you have a sweet car 5.7 HEMI, very nice...
When you pulled the pin is it supposed to go into the slot on the idler pulley????
When you pull the pin it is supposed to release the pressure for it to push the pulley arm into the belt. If nothing happened when you pulled the pin the cylinder is faulty.
what is the difference between the timing if it's off position
If you pull the covers and turn the crank until it aligns with the mark and one of the other marks on the cam are not between the dots then it has slipped. You might need to turmoil the crank twice to align. It turns twice to every cam turn.
How would I reinstall tha harmonic pulley? Just bolt it back on?
It just bolts back on, it is not part of the balance, this is an enteral balanced engine. As you can see there is no key way.
@@rodneyroberts I ended up tapping it with a hammer and I used my dewalt impact to bolt it back on. Really great video nonetheless. I was working on one at 2am trying to figure how to install the pulley
I'm having a heck of a time attaching my puller. Any suggestions?
You can try to put like rubber bands on the other end to assist in pulling the jaws out and insure the puller is adjusted so the jaws fit snug when installing.
If the puller is loose it is very hard to install. You can also get another set of hands to assist holding the jaws in place as you screw it in.
Was your water pump leaking or was this a general maintenance? I am trying to figure out if my brother's 300m is the water pump. Intermittent coolant leak. It drips from the front support member under the car. It has 101k on the engine. Any thoughts on confirming the leak. I'm thinking about removing the crank pulley and checking for leaks.
I did it as general maintenance because the car had 150,000
If you have coolant comming out around the crank it would be the water pump
How about a house-call so you can do this on my 1999 Chrysler 300M ??........it is probably past due and you look like the best at doing this. (I would have to wait around here for months to get the appointment and then leave my car at the local place and I don't trust anyone that much)
Wonder how long this takes all together
I was able to do this in an afternoon and taking the video at the same time.
how can I find out if the timing is slip
If you pull the covers off and timing marks don't line up then it has slipped
Can you point me in direction to video to remove a water pump off a 2007 dodge Charger 2.7L...Thanks
Chrysler (Sebring/Concorde/300) 2.7L timing replacement (Cloyes kit# 9-0397SA) this is for the timing chain but you will need to know that if you do the water pump. The water pump is driven by the timing chain like the belt in the 3.5.
Ron Daniel have you found one it's a chain type timing chain on 2.7 they have so many great videos
Sir,I have a 2001 LHS Chrysler are these models similar?
Same 3.5
Rodney Roberts wow, so even if they are different years and different model it does not matter?
@@play2win256 they only run an engine for a shot time then change things but you are good with the 2001, only the bolt-ons will be different
Is this the 2.7 or 3.2 or doesn't it matter
3.5
How long did this take?
1 evening,
saved me 500 bucks lol
Joseph Rueck any update?
Same here at least on 350 on labor.
O
These are decent cars if you maintain them
I got this new and have had great luck.
Most cars I'm ready to let go of after 4 years but I still like this car as much as the day I got it. I'm looking for another 100,000 miles. This is serviced every 4000 miles.
I bought my 99 300m new as well. I drove it for 7 or 8 years and then gave it to my sister for the past 10 years, but got it back about a year ago. It wasn't maintained as well as I did when I had it, so I have had to rehab it bit by bit. I just replaced the cam and crank sensors, battery, a/c, control arms and tie rod ends, brakes, new tires and an alignment, and it runs great now. I am concerned about the timing belt as it has about 115K miles on it. I guess I'll add this to the list of things to work on this summer! Most of what it needs is cosmetic, but I still love the old girl!
I recommend purchasing the alignment tool. you can get in ebay for $20 it will be much easier to get timing right.
The right tools make all the difference. I didn't know this tool existed. Many thanks for the heads up...
i hate belts.. junk
Thumbs down because you didn’t show how to unplug the stupid fan, just showed a picture. Onto the next vid
@NStrats-gf8hq
1 year ago
Thumbs down because you didn’t show how to unplug the stupid fan, just showed a picture. Onto the next vid
If you can't unplug a fan this might not be the job for you.