A lot of different things. First I used electrolysis. Using a plastic swimming pool to submerge the part in water with baking soda and using a battery charger and sacrificial metal to attract the rust off the part. Plenty of videos out there explaining it. But that not good if you have a huge part. Used of phosphate acid wire brush and a lot of elbow grease. You can buy it at Home Depot in the paint department and it’s labeled as metal / concrete prep. Works amazing but it’s still not easy. I used a lot of stuff labeled rust remover with little to no results and a bit expensive. Metal Rescue seems to be good but it takes a lot of applications. I made a solutions with citrus acid and Oxalic acid and it worked better but it’s how you applied it. I will have to make a video explaining how but every panel was a hit or miss. Of course you have to sand but you are removing metal. Has to be stable before you sand. Organisms have to be killed on the metal unfortunately they keep coming back unless it’s sealed Thanks I’ll try to make a video on it
I get it at eBay That is the easiest for me because I’m in California because everything is illegal here. 70/30 lead . I have found some at a yard sale one time. Eastwood is too expensive . Just have to have your eyes open. Some older restoration shops can help also
Admirable DIY ....good luck with the project
Thanks for your positive comments. We all need it
Please show or explain how you removed body surface rust to get it so shiny thanks
A lot of different things. First I used electrolysis. Using a plastic swimming pool to submerge the part in water with baking soda and using a battery charger and sacrificial metal to attract the rust off the part. Plenty of videos out there explaining it. But that not good if you have a huge part. Used of phosphate acid wire brush and a lot of elbow grease. You can buy it at Home Depot in the paint department and it’s labeled as metal / concrete prep. Works amazing but it’s still not easy. I used a lot of stuff labeled rust remover with little to no results and a bit expensive. Metal Rescue seems to be good but it takes a lot of applications. I made a solutions with citrus acid and Oxalic acid and it worked better but it’s how you applied it. I will have to make a video explaining how but every panel was a hit or miss. Of course you have to sand but you are removing metal. Has to be stable before you sand. Organisms have to be killed on the metal unfortunately they keep coming back unless it’s sealed Thanks I’ll try to make a video on it
@@ATfabNfix64I have heard if something called Ospho that seems to work pretty well and is long lasting.
You need a respirator mask brother, purple filters.
I know, I have a fan blowing over me keeping the fumes away but I know it’s not enough. I’m detoxing with charcoal for a month now
Yes! That’s how they did it in the factory. Totally worth it on this car.
A bit tougher to do but it’s not too bad. Heat control is a must
Nice..where can you buy the led bars ?
I get it at eBay That is the easiest for me because I’m in California because everything is illegal here. 70/30 lead . I have found some at a yard sale one time. Eastwood is too expensive . Just have to have your eyes open. Some older restoration shops can help also
Use tallow or oil on the paddle soak for a few days in oil so it does not stick to it as well .
I used Crisco all vegetable it worked really good and it’s less fatty LOL
Lead has strength. Thats why it was used by auto manufacturers. Some hi tech bonding/filler stuff out there now.
@@danielburke4113 I like using every thing out there. From lead to the latest stuff out there
Try wooden paddle with wax for spreading the lead that’s how it’s done instead of a rag
I see the paddle now!
I did use a wooden paddle . The rag or steel wool is to pre tin to prep for lead loading
Toxic soldering fumes twice gave me panic attacks..
Dangerous stuff. Ventilation is the key having a fan blowing the fumes away