I'm really glad you made this video! For some stupid reason I had to have a Ruger 57 and now am faced with the ammo "problem" (that we all have) and reload regularly 38 & 357's. I think I will just "pass" on reloading the 5.7x28, I'm glad you had the courage to say "don't bother", it's what I really needed to hear. Thank You!
I reload this, but using a single stage press. Using universal decap die remove primer, to Clean, 10% simple green, 1/2 teaspoon of dawn in luke warm water, hand tumble for 30sec, soak for about 15-20min, rinse thoroughly, then towel tumble, then air dry (they are not shiny, but mostly clean, primer pocket may still have junk), swag if first time reloading them and check primer pocket for no go or go gauge. Using a single stage press and imperial wax for sizing, then run same cleaning process as above. Trim the brass, which is the part I have the difficulty in constancy. Then prime each round, weigh each powder charge as you would in a precision load. Then seat the projectile to specs. Yes is time consuming, but it's what I do.
Universal decapper, simple green wash, rinse good and dry well, spray lube and resize and swage primer pockets, another simple green wash and rinse. Dry well and store with desicant pack for a couple days to get all traces of moisture. Prime with quality small rifle primers, I use True Blue powder and only load 40gr Blitz or 50gr Hornaday soft point projectiles. I mark my brass and only reload twice. After that the cases move along to another platform to make projectiles with.. Remember your 5.7 case diameter? .312... Hmmmm....
Hi bill, i'm sorry you feel that way that was not my intention when I created the video, I'm very much into reloading and I've struggled and struggled and struggled with that cartridge. I tried with the video to show some of the problems that I have had in the process. Most with experience with reloading should understand the process and possibly some of the troubles I just wanted to share my experiences and frustration with that little cartridge.
It can be a pain to load. I have had problems with reloading a case more than 3 times the case gets to week. I have blown the neck off or the back brass rips off. I stay away from the short hornady bullets because they don’t sit far enough back in the case and have separated from time to time. Now i use the cases only once.
You say that the “lacker” is helping keep the brass in. I would argue it’s a lubricant helping it eject. When you remove it the brass grips the chamber walls much firmer that’s why your having problems ejecting brass even at higher pressures.
Thanks for the comment... not sure how *lacker got past me? Anyway I felt the lacquer was the the *sticky part... I tried polished brass, dry lubed, etc. with no change. I would be open to any ideas as I would love to load it. If you have been successful at loading it let me know your process. Thanks again!!
I’m honestly thinking a tumble in moly coating might just do the trick. It’s crazy slick and designed to embed in brass and copper. I would plug the case mouth and leave the primer in the pocket and tumble in molly powder. I tumble Bullets in a old pill bottle in a vibratory tumbler. If you have a few pieces of brass you want me to tumble in molly to try I would be happy. You can reach me through my website jarodtodd.com
Hi and thanks for the very informative video. I have a Dillon 550 and am looking for a plate that you had made. I know the video is 8 years old, but hoping you still have the info where I can order one. Since Dillon doesn"t Make one. Just purchased a PSN90 and after finding out how much ammo cost,,Since I reload Why not give it a shot. Thank you
Any premature neck separations from removing that lacquer on critical parts of case during firing ? Have batch that had done same to but was informed that inevitably the case will premature when running dry / raw brass with lacquer removed
I have heard of more weapons being destroyed by not enough powder than to much. The lack of powder leaves to much free space causing the primmer to set the powder off all at once instead of rear to the front of the cartridge. I would start using a powder that fills the case more. The reloading press you have though is top of the line and shows you will never be spending another dime your whole life on any repairs.
I have been racking my brain trying to remember where... I know it was from a machine shop that I found on a FiveSeven forum. I wish I could remember more for you:(
Don't use a progressive press on this round. Base plates on progressive presses usually have a slight movement. This is why Dillon doesn't make a base plate for the 5.7. This round is too finicky and the progressive presses are usually not as precise as a turret or single stage press. My .02$
This is like bait and switch. The title is Reloading the 5.7, but the video is why you should not reload the 5.7. If you've done it, show us what you did so we can be the judge. Maybe you're doing something wrong.
When I started I had to have a machinist drill the shell holder for my trimmer. Also took awhile to break the fl die in got a few stuck. The feeling of accomplishment is great running better bullets at better speeds and knowing there your loads is awesome. Dont get the small base for the pistol can only reload once. Unless you use it to get it smaller after the minimum die.
This video is about to become much more popular with Rugers new 5.7 shipping now in the $600.00 ranges. Funny, FN just dropped hundreds, off the price of their 5.7 Gee, funny they couldn't do that until Ruger came out with a better product at almost half the old FN price! :) This is why I would NEVER buy an Apple product. When they purposely engineer their products never to work with anybody elses products, it gave them their monopoly. The dozens of Android phones for example compete against each other and the consumer wins a much better product and a better cost'/value. Same exact thing Ruger just demonstrated with the 5.7 and FN. I love watching the free market principles work, and we consumers win!
I'm really glad you made this video! For some stupid reason I had to have a Ruger 57 and now am faced with the ammo "problem" (that we all have) and reload regularly 38 & 357's. I think I will just "pass" on reloading the 5.7x28, I'm glad you had the courage to say "don't bother", it's what I really needed to hear. Thank You!
I reload this, but using a single stage press. Using universal decap die remove primer, to Clean, 10% simple green, 1/2 teaspoon of dawn in luke warm water, hand tumble for 30sec, soak for about 15-20min, rinse thoroughly, then towel tumble, then air dry (they are not shiny, but mostly clean, primer pocket may still have junk), swag if first time reloading them and check primer pocket for no go or go gauge. Using a single stage press and imperial wax for sizing, then run same cleaning process as above. Trim the brass, which is the part I have the difficulty in constancy. Then prime each round, weigh each powder charge as you would in a precision load. Then seat the projectile to specs. Yes is time consuming, but it's what I do.
Perhaps the cleaning ant the wax is the key? I’ll have to try that. Thanks for commenting!!
What does do you use? What primers? What powder?
Evan Valek True Blue or Accurate #7, with CCI 500 primers, True Blue showed pressure signs for my loads, but Accurate #7 seems to safer for me.
@@dazznn what dies? Are you reloading the 40 grain?
Evan Valek Hornady die kit, still in load development. I did try 40gn, but didn’t have much luck in accuracy, I have better luck with 30gn so far.
Universal decapper, simple green wash, rinse good and dry well, spray lube and resize and swage primer pockets, another simple green wash and rinse. Dry well and store with desicant pack for a couple days to get all traces of moisture. Prime with quality small rifle primers, I use True Blue powder and only load 40gr Blitz or 50gr Hornaday soft point projectiles. I mark my brass and only reload twice. After that the cases move along to another platform to make projectiles with.. Remember your 5.7 case diameter? .312... Hmmmm....
Hi bill, i'm sorry you feel that way that was not my intention when I created the video, I'm very much into reloading and I've struggled and struggled and struggled with that cartridge. I tried with the video to show some of the problems that I have had in the process. Most with experience with reloading should understand the process and possibly some of the troubles I just wanted to share my experiences and frustration with that little cartridge.
It can be a pain to load. I have had problems with reloading a case more than 3 times the case gets to week. I have blown the neck off or the back brass rips off. I stay away from the short hornady bullets because they don’t sit far enough back in the case and have separated from time to time. Now i use the cases only once.
RG, thanks for making the video; great pro and con. I'm still going to give it a go
Well did ya have any luck? Cause I'm just about to shit can the whole idea.
You say that the “lacker” is helping keep the brass in. I would argue it’s a lubricant helping it eject. When you remove it the brass grips the chamber walls much firmer that’s why your having problems ejecting brass even at higher pressures.
Thanks for the comment... not sure how *lacker got past me? Anyway I felt the lacquer was the the *sticky part... I tried polished brass, dry lubed, etc. with no change. I would be open to any ideas as I would love to load it. If you have been successful at loading it let me know your process. Thanks again!!
I’m honestly thinking a tumble in moly coating might just do the trick. It’s crazy slick and designed to embed in brass and copper. I would plug the case mouth and leave the primer in the pocket and tumble in molly powder. I tumble Bullets in a old pill bottle in a vibratory tumbler. If you have a few pieces of brass you want me to tumble in molly to try I would be happy. You can reach me through my website jarodtodd.com
That’s a great way, I’ll give it a shot and see if anything changes on my end👍
Hi and thanks for the very informative video. I have a Dillon 550 and am looking for a plate that you had made. I know the video is 8 years old, but hoping you still have the info where I can order one. Since Dillon doesn"t Make one. Just purchased a PSN90 and after finding out how much ammo cost,,Since I reload Why not give it a shot. Thank you
I have a dillon XL650 but they don't make a shell plate for me. So I just use my Lee single stage.
Any premature neck separations from removing that lacquer on critical parts of case during firing ? Have batch that had done same to but was informed that inevitably the case will premature when running dry / raw brass with lacquer removed
+acertainshade4211 No case problems, will not cycle in the action of the Five7 pistol, the PS90 does not seem to care lacquer or no.
+Regular Guy yup scrapped all my lacquer less brass and been loading both subs and supers in my FSN pistol
Yep it is a bearcat for sure rips the brass out destroys the case holder
I have heard of more weapons being destroyed by not enough powder than to much. The lack of powder leaves to much free space causing the primmer to set the powder off all at once instead of rear to the front of the cartridge. I would start using a powder that fills the case more. The reloading press you have though is top of the line and shows you will never be spending another dime your whole life on any repairs.
Where or how did you have the dillon 500 base plate or "shell holder " made. I need that plate for my machine. Any info would help.
Thank you
I have been racking my brain trying to remember where... I know it was from a machine shop that I found on a FiveSeven forum. I wish I could remember more for you:(
eliteammunition.ecwid.com/Dillon-550-Shell-Plate-5-7x28mm-w-3-Pins-p51295985
...and for the Dillon 650: az-born.com/
Don't use a progressive press on this round. Base plates on progressive presses usually have a slight movement. This is why Dillon doesn't make a base plate for the 5.7. This round is too finicky and the progressive presses are usually not as precise as a turret or single stage press. My .02$
Just use simple green in an ultrasonic cleaner like I do and it preserves that coating just fine
I load 57 will never through powder weight each load with 1500 RCBS scales. I have seen 57x28 come apart from over load.
Yes, I definitely agree it’s a finicky little round. One that you really need to be careful with.
You're not supposed to wash off the lacquer
This is like bait and switch. The title is Reloading the 5.7, but the video is why you should not reload the 5.7. If you've done it, show us what you did so we can be the judge. Maybe you're doing something wrong.
+Bill Weber, do a simple search as I am doing now- almost all videos note these difficulties. Reload it or don't.
When I started I had to have a machinist drill the shell holder for my trimmer. Also took awhile to break the fl die in got a few stuck. The feeling of accomplishment is great running better bullets at better speeds and knowing there your loads is awesome. Dont get the small base for the pistol can only reload once. Unless you use it to get it smaller after the minimum die.
Face book under the same name I have a few thousand rounds once fired anyone. Pay shipping and a few bucks it's yours
I’m interested in the brass if you still have it. I’ll check Facebook.
@@Jason-ss8bj dm me in messenger. Same name bud still have it
You still have it
@@marcspencer800 nope sorry
True Blue Powder works best..... simple to load to be honest....not on a progressive though
This video is about to become much more popular with Rugers new 5.7 shipping now in the $600.00 ranges. Funny, FN just dropped hundreds, off the price of their 5.7 Gee, funny they couldn't do that until Ruger came out with a better product at almost half the old FN price! :) This is why I would NEVER buy an Apple product. When they purposely engineer their products never to work with anybody elses products, it gave them their monopoly. The dozens of Android phones for example compete against each other and the consumer wins a much better product and a better cost'/value. Same exact thing Ruger just demonstrated with the 5.7 and FN. I love watching the free market principles work, and we consumers win!
i reloaded for this round at price of guns its not worth it