I have been reloading for over 45 years and thousands of rounds of many different cal and I had read all the horror stories about reloading 5.7 and didn't know if I really wanted to deal with it. Well I recently purchased a Ruger 5.7 carbine and down the rabbit hole I went just like the rest of you. I have two fully setup Dillon 750's and of course you cant get a shell holder for them so I purchased a cheap little Lee press and Lee dies and made a mount for my bench and started playing. I have not had one issue with case sticking with cheap lee dies and all the horror stories I have read I have not seen. I believe its probably one reason for this. I use Dillon case lube and nothing else on everything I load because it works. I have not had any issues with the coating pealing off using the dies. So if anyone is still having issues please try the Dillon lube and see if it works for you. I cant believe it beginners luck.
I've been spending tons of time reloading 5.7 over a 2 years period. I have it down to a science now. I did have the problems you are having now but I'm wayyyy past that misery. #1 is the very first thing you do with your brass is ANNEAL! The brass will then cooperate with you without all of that finicky stuff. now do about 95% of sizing all my brass "without lube." Do you hear me? Let me also say my cartridges are as reliable in loading than any factory cartridge out there out of all 4 of my 5.7 firearms! I use a combination of a turret and 2 single stage presses for every round. I have them all lined up so I can still load approx 150 an hour. Never a stuck case! But It would take me awhile to lead everyone through the process and It has to be done EXACTLY as I do it or you will FAIL! But once you got it, YOU GOT IT! I get at least 5 loadings out of every piece of brass ( If I don't hot rod them). I only anneal them once. I prefer the Ugly Annealer that is worth every penny! I take the stem OUT of the sizing die and decap on a single stage. Then bring it to my hand primer then to my Lyman drop powder charger then back to my turret press to seat the bullet THEN back to another single stage and use the LEE FULL BODY DIE! I do everything with "smooth strokes" as to NOT deform the rim at any time. Once get the rhythm it's no harder than any other bottle neck cartridge loaded other than a progressive. But if you want consistent rifle cartridges, you never load off a progressive any way! So I did all the work for the guys who read this very informative note right here! If you do it exactly the way I do it without missing a step, you will be loading factory-like rounds every time! It took me 2 fricken years to finally come up with this fantastic method! Your Welcome!!
The insert, remove, turn, reinsert multiple times tip has helped me out A TON. Thank you sir! I wrecked the first 2 out of 3 cases, now I'm rolling through them!
Glad I found this video I’ve been reloading forever. Just bought a 5.7 and figured I’d load it like everything else. Didn’t know what a pain this round could be. Thanks for the heads up.
Very nice video, thank you. I do not own a 5.7x28 yet but am an avid reloader. In fact, if I cant reload for a firearm, I wont get one. Now that you've showed me it's finicky but not that difficult, I'll get one. Again, thank you.
for me, the lube; One-Shot...the Hornady die has been treating me just fine. Haven't had any normal brass go up so stubbornly as you are showing (except for that black brass from Vanguard - haven't tried that again - I think it needs some different type of lube, if memory serves). Never have had one of these separations of pulling it apart you are talking about.
I have lee dies it came with 2 shell holders one is flat on the bottom it s stepped FN on it works great , only problem u might get is of you have overpressure and ur primer has a creator it won't fit shellholder because it's machined really tight.
There's a market for those case holders. Wrecked half the brass on the first go, took me 2 hours to come up with 20 pieces. Thanks for the tip on the J-B weld.
lol at the mangled Lee collet. I know exactly what struggle you had with that darn thing. I sent my dies back, you should not need a impact gun to adjust your decapper LOL.
Great video and information! I'm about to start reloading 5.7's and your information that you shared makes me feel a little better. I was wondering if you had any problems with lacquer finish that I keep hearing about? Anyways thanks for the great video and info.
Honestly, I take it off. That's really only an issue with the PS90. You can also re-lacquer the rounds, or nickel plate like I have recently started doing.
@@NOTSOSLIMJIM would you care to share your experiences with me. Say you have put the lacquer back on them? I was thinking that it could be spaying back on them if needed, but only a thin coat. Thank you for your time and experiences.
@@tobinleonard5836 I used a process used by another person I found online. You just take your completed rounds, poke the bullet end into cardboard up to the neck, and spray a very light coat of spray on lacquer. I have also used 3M spray on dry lubricant with Teflon, both worked fine. Honestly, just toss the rounds in a vibration polisher with some NuFinish till they are super shiny and they will work fine.
I use a Redding Turret press and I’m just not having all these issues you’re having 😃🤷 mine resizes easily with one push, and I don’t have any horseshoe problem that you talk about
Well I had absolutely no life yesterday. I received the next 1,000 I ordered from the Florida dude and got them all cleaned, resized, and deprimed. Once again, best batch I've managed yet. I lost a good deal of the coating last time; I'd wet tumbled them in tap water for 10 minutes and couldn't believe how quickly the coating started coming off. For cleaning, all I did this time was water rinse them, run 'em through an ultrasonic for a couple of minutes, then bake 'em dry in the oven. I decapped and resized in one stroke this time around as well and only had minor horseshoes on the toughest ones and the coating is basically good as new on all of them so I'm pretty stoked about that. It's always the ones with the red paint on the bottom of the case that give me trouble... any idea what those are originally? They've gotta be something pretty hot because some of the shoulders on those are 99% blown forward. I also came across one of the AEs you were talking about. The bullet was shoved down in the case and it screwed up my decapping stem. I had to pull parts from my .223 dies to fix the damn thing.
That's why he is sold out. I was going to buy some last night.... The red stuff on the bottom is primer sealer. You can soak them in acetone to get ride of it. As for the lacquer coating, I remove it. I spray mine down with Dupont Teflon and ceramic dry lubricant. They are slicker than a baby's ass. For loading, you can try making some "resizing butter" I came up with. 3 parts imperial wax, 2 parts lee lube, and 1 part rcbs liquid lube. Mix it all together till it looks like butter. Haven't lost a single case since I started using it.
@@NOTSOSLIMJIM Lol, sorry about that. Thanks so much for the tip on the coating; I'll definitely give it a go. I still have plenty from the last batch that would make good candidates for coating removal. If you're in a pinch, I can send you some. Those are already trimmed up and all.
No issues. I'm just stockpiling for 1776-2. If I don't have at least 2,000 of each round, I feel under stocked. Plus I'm catching up on 9mm subsonic and 308 at the moment. You can also re lacquer the rounds after the fact. If you have Facebook, you can hit me up under "Jay citizen" from Killeen Texas.
@@whiplash636 I had almost 100 rounds with the bottoms painted red in my last batch. The cases look similar to others that were fired on an AR57 on a MG lower. Shoulders are ~1/8” from the edge. I started setting the red painted ones aside for dire emergency’s.
Great video and a new subscriber. Just as a background, without trying to boast, let me state, I currently reload for 40 different cartridges and have been at it for over 50 years. I'm also a retired (retarded?) Engineer, so I know my way around reloading, having 80 sets of dies. I just wanted to throw out my recent 'adventures' with this little round. I acquired a TC Custom Shop 12" bbl chambered for 5.7X28. Yes, I heard ALL the horror stories about this round being difficult to reload. I've learned that it's pretty easy, once you get your process down pat. I bought a few boxes of factory ammo and 200 once-fired cases, just to experiment with. Remember, since I'm loading these for a single shot, break open action, the coating had to go. I de-primed all 200 with a Lee Universal de-capping die. I put them in my Thumbler with SS pins and cleaned them. If you're reloading for an auto loader, I have read that guys have cleaned their cases with Simple Green. Did you know there is a great version of SG? It's called Simple Green Extreme. It is certified by Boeing Aircraft to me aluminum safe and that's all I buy for my machine shop and hot rods. Rather than bore you with all the details, I'll just touch on the one MOST important thing I've learned. Case lube. I have them ALL. Lee, RCBS, Dillon DCL, homebrew lanolin and alcohol brew, etc. The ONLY one I'll use from now on is Imperial Wax. I first used Hornady One Shot. I have had great results with other bottleneck ctgs, so I tried, I noticed that the upstroke on the Rock Chucker was stiff, but acceptable. However, the downstroke was VERY difficult. Yes, I had about 4 stuck cases before I wised up. Unfortunately, I made the switch to Imperial near the end of the 200 cases. However, the damage was done. A LOT of the cases lubed with the One Shot have real issues going into my Hornady #37 press die and into my favorite priming tool, the Lee hand primer. Those tiny rims are fragile. The cases lubed with Imperial were so slick it was like night and day. ZERO insertion issues. You may have a favorite case lube, but (as mentioned below), I'll not use ANYTHING but Imperial for the 5.7. Just observations from this old fart.Of course, YMMV......... Happy New Year!
I have also played with case lube. For the 5.7, I use a mix of was with a little lanolin mixed in it. The biggest difference I have found in reloading this cartridge is annealing them. Once I started doing so, they resize like butter.
They all do that. I found annealing the cases helps alot in resizing and extending the life of the case. I've had a few hundred once fired brass with almost no neck I've resized and fired.
I finally found a method which isn't overly time consuming for me. I use Imperial Die Wax (awesome stuff). I thoroughly coat my palms and fingers, then take 7-8 cases at a time and roll them back and forth in my palms a couple of times, then they're good to go for resizing. I just finished sizing another 1,000 cases yesterday and didn't lose any cases. Of the previous 1,000 I'd done, I lost probably 30% of my cases to rim damage. Also, god dang you look fat in this video. Jk, lmao.
Lol, I am fat. I also have imperial wax, but had to use so much of it, it cost too much. Plus it's way faster to put the brass in plastic tub and shake the lube on. I also cut a lube drainage path from the pressure relief through the groves to allow the built up lube to escape.
@@NOTSOSLIMJIM Ah, that's good thinking. I guess I hadn't come across the relief issue since I de-prime and resize in different steps and my resizing die has the decap pin removed, which I only did in order to take some of the pressure off the case all at once. Since this latest batch went so well, I was planning on combining them once again. You definitely do have to use a ton of lube. When I do my rifle cases, I can practically look at the die wax and it's good to go. Anyway, thanks for making the video. You don't see very much truly helpful things related to 5.7x28; rather, it's mostly just a bunch of garbled up nonsense from folks who've never even tried reloading the cartridge.
@@NOTSOSLIMJIM Lol, I'm far too lazy to convert 300; I buy it new from Midworks Brass. Btw, where do you get your 5.7 brass? I've only bought from LeoBrass; that's the cheapest place I can find it.
To be honest, if you have a pistol, just pull the barrel and use that. Make sure you OAL is good, than take a known good round and see how far it goes into the barrel. After you have a reference, you are golden to use your barrel as a check. That's how I do my 300blk
When i geared up to start reloading 57 the Sheridan windowed case gauge was all i could find so i got it. When i used it, i got that gauge for all my rifle calibers. Being able to see the fitment of the entire case in the gauge is a peace of mind you can only experience when you see it. Get that gauge, you will not regret it
If you use a decent press NO LEE and decent dies NOT LEE and a ultrasonic cleaner and spray them with Hornady One shot oh yes and a decent shell holder you will have no problems. STOP CHEAPING OUT ON YOUR RELOADING EQUIPMENT. Redding Press Redding Full length sizing die and an ultrasonic cleaner. I've loaded thousands of rounds no coating loss no case head separation perfect cases everytime.
You pretend like only people with Lee reloading equipment have issues reloading 5.7x28. not like their are plenty of other channels using more expensive equipment that still have the same issues.
![Is 5.7x28mm Just Overpriced .22 Magnum? [Part 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oMdaQVCEOYw/mqdefault.jpg)
I have been reloading for over 45 years and thousands of rounds of many different cal and I had read all the horror stories about reloading 5.7 and didn't know if I really wanted to deal with it. Well I recently purchased a Ruger 5.7 carbine and down the rabbit hole I went just like the rest of you.
I have two fully setup Dillon 750's and of course you cant get a shell holder for them so I purchased a cheap little Lee press and Lee dies and made a mount for my bench and started playing.
I have not had one issue with case sticking with cheap lee dies and all the horror stories I have read I have not seen. I believe its probably one reason for this. I use Dillon case lube and nothing else on everything I load because it works. I have not had any issues with the coating pealing off using the dies.
So if anyone is still having issues please try the Dillon lube and see if it works for you. I cant believe it beginners luck.
I've been spending tons of time reloading 5.7 over a 2 years period. I have it down to a science now. I did have the problems you are having now but I'm wayyyy past that misery. #1 is the very first thing you do with your brass is ANNEAL! The brass will then cooperate with you without all of that finicky stuff. now do about 95% of sizing all my brass "without lube." Do you hear me? Let me also say my cartridges are as reliable in loading than any factory cartridge out there out of all 4 of my 5.7 firearms! I use a combination of a turret and 2 single stage presses for every round. I have them all lined up so I can still load approx 150 an hour. Never a stuck case! But It would take me awhile to lead everyone through the process and It has to be done EXACTLY as I do it or you will FAIL! But once you got it, YOU GOT IT! I get at least 5 loadings out of every piece of brass ( If I don't hot rod them). I only anneal them once. I prefer the Ugly Annealer that is worth every penny! I take the stem OUT of the sizing die and decap on a single stage. Then bring it to my hand primer then to my Lyman drop powder charger then back to my turret press to seat the bullet THEN back to another single stage and use the LEE FULL BODY DIE! I do everything with "smooth strokes" as to NOT deform the rim at any time. Once get the rhythm it's no harder than any other bottle neck cartridge loaded other than a progressive. But if you want consistent rifle cartridges, you never load off a progressive any way! So I did all the work for the guys who read this very informative note right here! If you do it exactly the way I do it without missing a step, you will be loading factory-like rounds every time! It took me 2 fricken years to finally come up with this fantastic method! Your Welcome!!
The insert, remove, turn, reinsert multiple times tip has helped me out A TON. Thank you sir! I wrecked the first 2 out of 3 cases, now I'm rolling through them!
@shaymathews7693 glad I could help!
Dump the lLe dies, and get Lyman. I use One-Shot on my 5.7 for resizing and I have no issues. I do use Lanolin oil when resizing the VG or AAC brass.
On contrary. I suggest full length case sizing, trim case every time reloaded.
Glad I found this video I’ve been reloading forever. Just bought a 5.7 and figured I’d load it like everything else. Didn’t know what a pain this round could be.
Thanks for the heads up.
Thank You! That information is greatly appreciated.
Very nice video, thank you. I do not own a 5.7x28 yet but am an avid reloader. In fact, if I cant reload for a firearm, I wont get one. Now that you've showed me it's finicky but not that difficult, I'll get one. Again, thank you.
for me, the lube; One-Shot...the Hornady die has been treating me just fine. Haven't had any normal brass go up so stubbornly as you are showing (except for that black brass from Vanguard - haven't tried that again - I think it needs some different type of lube, if memory serves).
Never have had one of these separations of pulling it apart you are talking about.
I have lee dies it came with 2 shell holders one is flat on the bottom it s stepped FN on it works great , only problem u might get is of you have overpressure and ur primer has a creator it won't fit shellholder because it's machined really tight.
Man, mine only came with the one. For the bulged primers, I use a universal depriming tool.
There's a market for those case holders. Wrecked half the brass on the first go, took me 2 hours to come up with 20 pieces. Thanks for the tip on the J-B weld.
I made a "improved" version since. Same idea, just I used a piece of HSS and inserted it into the primer pocket. I then filed it flush.
lol at the mangled Lee collet. I know exactly what struggle you had with that darn thing. I sent my dies back, you should not need a impact gun to adjust your decapper LOL.
Great video and information! I'm about to start reloading 5.7's and your information that you shared makes me feel a little better. I was wondering if you had any problems with lacquer finish that I keep hearing about? Anyways thanks for the great video and info.
Honestly, I take it off. That's really only an issue with the PS90. You can also re-lacquer the rounds, or nickel plate like I have recently started doing.
@@NOTSOSLIMJIM would you care to share your experiences with me. Say you have put the lacquer back on them? I was thinking that it could be spaying back on them if needed, but only a thin coat. Thank you for your time and experiences.
@@tobinleonard5836 I used a process used by another person I found online. You just take your completed rounds, poke the bullet end into cardboard up to the neck, and spray a very light coat of spray on lacquer. I have also used 3M spray on dry lubricant with Teflon, both worked fine. Honestly, just toss the rounds in a vibration polisher with some NuFinish till they are super shiny and they will work fine.
@@NOTSOSLIMJIM Capitol brass has 100rds of brass for $13.50.
@@tobinleonard5836 I know, I just picked up 500 cases on Friday, lol.
Thanks you were a big help.
I use a Redding Turret press and I’m just not having all these issues you’re having 😃🤷 mine resizes easily with one push, and I don’t have any horseshoe problem that you talk about
Well I had absolutely no life yesterday. I received the next 1,000 I ordered from the Florida dude and got them all cleaned, resized, and deprimed. Once again, best batch I've managed yet. I lost a good deal of the coating last time; I'd wet tumbled them in tap water for 10 minutes and couldn't believe how quickly the coating started coming off. For cleaning, all I did this time was water rinse them, run 'em through an ultrasonic for a couple of minutes, then bake 'em dry in the oven. I decapped and resized in one stroke this time around as well and only had minor horseshoes on the toughest ones and the coating is basically good as new on all of them so I'm pretty stoked about that. It's always the ones with the red paint on the bottom of the case that give me trouble... any idea what those are originally? They've gotta be something pretty hot because some of the shoulders on those are 99% blown forward. I also came across one of the AEs you were talking about. The bullet was shoved down in the case and it screwed up my decapping stem. I had to pull parts from my .223 dies to fix the damn thing.
That's why he is sold out. I was going to buy some last night.... The red stuff on the bottom is primer sealer. You can soak them in acetone to get ride of it. As for the lacquer coating, I remove it. I spray mine down with Dupont Teflon and ceramic dry lubricant. They are slicker than a baby's ass. For loading, you can try making some "resizing butter" I came up with. 3 parts imperial wax, 2 parts lee lube, and 1 part rcbs liquid lube. Mix it all together till it looks like butter. Haven't lost a single case since I started using it.
@@NOTSOSLIMJIM Lol, sorry about that. Thanks so much for the tip on the coating; I'll definitely give it a go. I still have plenty from the last batch that would make good candidates for coating removal. If you're in a pinch, I can send you some. Those are already trimmed up and all.
No issues. I'm just stockpiling for 1776-2. If I don't have at least 2,000 of each round, I feel under stocked. Plus I'm catching up on 9mm subsonic and 308 at the moment. You can also re lacquer the rounds after the fact. If you have Facebook, you can hit me up under "Jay citizen" from Killeen Texas.
@@whiplash636 I had almost 100 rounds with the bottoms painted red in my last batch. The cases look similar to others that were fired on an AR57 on a MG lower. Shoulders are ~1/8” from the edge. I started setting the red painted ones aside for dire emergency’s.
I just started nickel plating my 5.7 reloads. Soooo much better
Great video and a new subscriber. Just as a background, without trying to boast, let me state, I currently reload for 40 different cartridges and have been at it for over 50 years. I'm also a retired (retarded?) Engineer, so I know my way around reloading, having 80 sets of dies.
I just wanted to throw out my recent 'adventures' with this little round. I acquired a TC Custom Shop 12" bbl chambered for 5.7X28. Yes, I heard ALL the horror stories about this round being difficult to reload. I've learned that it's pretty easy, once you get your process down pat.
I bought a few boxes of factory ammo and 200 once-fired cases, just to experiment with. Remember, since I'm loading these for a single shot, break open action, the coating had to go. I de-primed all 200 with a Lee Universal de-capping die. I put them in my Thumbler with SS pins and cleaned them. If you're reloading for an auto loader, I have read that guys have cleaned their cases with Simple Green. Did you know there is a great version of SG? It's called Simple Green Extreme. It is certified by Boeing Aircraft to me aluminum safe and that's all I buy for my machine shop and hot rods.
Rather than bore you with all the details, I'll just touch on the one MOST important thing I've learned.
Case lube. I have them ALL. Lee, RCBS, Dillon DCL, homebrew lanolin and alcohol brew, etc. The ONLY one I'll use from now on is Imperial Wax.
I first used Hornady One Shot. I have had great results with other bottleneck ctgs, so I tried, I noticed that the upstroke on the Rock Chucker was stiff, but acceptable. However, the downstroke was VERY difficult. Yes, I had about 4 stuck cases before I wised up. Unfortunately, I made the switch to Imperial near the end of the 200 cases. However, the damage was done. A LOT of the cases lubed with the One Shot have real issues going into my Hornady #37 press die and into my favorite priming tool, the Lee hand primer. Those tiny rims are fragile.
The cases lubed with Imperial were so slick it was like night and day. ZERO insertion issues.
You may have a favorite case lube, but (as mentioned below), I'll not use ANYTHING but Imperial for the 5.7.
Just observations from this old fart.Of course, YMMV.........
Happy New Year!
I have also played with case lube. For the 5.7, I use a mix of was with a little lanolin mixed in it. The biggest difference I have found in reloading this cartridge is annealing them. Once I started doing so, they resize like butter.
How do you deal with the rounded shoulders and the neck not downsizing?
Two ways. One, very good lube. Two, (the best way) annealing the brass first. They resize like butter if you do.
What make is you case length headspace gauge? Where did you buy it?
Here you go.
sheridanengineering.com/product/57x28-ammunition-gauge/
@@NOTSOSLIMJIM thank you. Just ordered one
I got the slotted one, that way you can see where the interference is.
Same.
Thanks
Do you leave the coating on your cases
No, I remove it.
I've noticed the s&w blows out the neck almost the same size as the case, can they be resized, or has the neck been overstressed .
They all do that. I found annealing the cases helps alot in resizing and extending the life of the case. I've had a few hundred once fired brass with almost no neck I've resized and fired.
Are these Lee Precision reloading kits good for reloading 5.7×28 I'm wanting to start reloading so I need some advice on what kit I should get
They work, but I like the RCBS set better. I still use them on my Lee press.
I finally found a method which isn't overly time consuming for me. I use Imperial Die Wax (awesome stuff). I thoroughly coat my palms and fingers, then take 7-8 cases at a time and roll them back and forth in my palms a couple of times, then they're good to go for resizing. I just finished sizing another 1,000 cases yesterday and didn't lose any cases. Of the previous 1,000 I'd done, I lost probably 30% of my cases to rim damage. Also, god dang you look fat in this video. Jk, lmao.
Lol, I am fat. I also have imperial wax, but had to use so much of it, it cost too much. Plus it's way faster to put the brass in plastic tub and shake the lube on. I also cut a lube drainage path from the pressure relief through the groves to allow the built up lube to escape.
@@NOTSOSLIMJIM Ah, that's good thinking. I guess I hadn't come across the relief issue since I de-prime and resize in different steps and my resizing die has the decap pin removed, which I only did in order to take some of the pressure off the case all at once. Since this latest batch went so well, I was planning on combining them once again.
You definitely do have to use a ton of lube. When I do my rifle cases, I can practically look at the die wax and it's good to go.
Anyway, thanks for making the video. You don't see very much truly helpful things related to 5.7x28; rather, it's mostly just a bunch of garbled up nonsense from folks who've never even tried reloading the cartridge.
@@whiplash636 yeah, that's how it is when I resize most rounds. The only two that are a pain for me are the 5.7 and converting 300 blackout.
@@NOTSOSLIMJIM Lol, I'm far too lazy to convert 300; I buy it new from Midworks Brass. Btw, where do you get your 5.7 brass? I've only bought from LeoBrass; that's the cheapest place I can find it.
@@whiplash636 lol, same. You ever look up his address? It's a tiny little house in Florida.
That is useful info.
Is Sheridan the only company that makes a check gauge for these? They're always out of stock and rather expensive.
Elite ammunition makes one as well, but cost $71.
To be honest, if you have a pistol, just pull the barrel and use that. Make sure you OAL is good, than take a known good round and see how far it goes into the barrel. After you have a reference, you are golden to use your barrel as a check. That's how I do my 300blk
@@NOTSOSLIMJIM ... Thanks a lot, brother! I appreciate the info.
@@footnotedrummer no problem man. The whole point of my channel is to help people out, so I'm just happy to help!
When i geared up to start reloading 57 the Sheridan windowed case gauge was all i could find so i got it. When i used it, i got that gauge for all my rifle calibers. Being able to see the fitment of the entire case in the gauge is a peace of mind you can only experience when you see it. Get that gauge, you will not regret it
Have you lost some cases to the neck part detaching and finding it on the seating stem like a ring on a finger?
If you use a decent press NO LEE and decent dies NOT LEE and a ultrasonic cleaner and spray them with Hornady One shot oh yes and a decent shell holder you will have no problems. STOP CHEAPING OUT ON YOUR RELOADING EQUIPMENT. Redding Press Redding Full length sizing die and an ultrasonic cleaner. I've loaded thousands of rounds no coating loss no case head separation perfect cases everytime.
@Sheeeeeeeeeeeesh You get what you pay for
You pretend like only people with Lee reloading equipment have issues reloading 5.7x28. not like their are plenty of other channels using more expensive equipment that still have the same issues.