89 Cherokee Checking and Adjusting Caster
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- 1989 Jeep Cherokee XJ Pioneer Renix 4.6L I6 AW4 NP231 6" RE Lift 35"x12.5" STT Pros
Follow me on Facebook and Instagram!
/ nickintimefilms
/ nickintimefilms
Check out the Website!
nickintimedesi... - Авто та транспорт
You should have moved the lower control arm forward as much as you moved the upper control arm back in order to keep you wheel base the same as it was. Your lower is slotted at the back bushing. This also keeps your drive shaft in better alignment. You wouldn’t have had to move the upper nearly as much to get the correct angle that way.
Geo Stanley was getting ready to say the same, I would have pushed them all the way forward and went from there. When I had short arms, I had adjustable upper and lower control arms, so it made things a lot easier.
Josh B mine is a long arm from rough country and it has adjustable upper and lower. Y style control arm uses one mounting point to the body and the upper comes off of the lower. Not much different than the short arm as far as adjustments are concerned.
I have Cavfabs Alpha 3 link now
Josh B what kind of cost/warranty do the cavfabs 3 link have? My entire RC 6.5” Xflex long arm kit was less than $2000 and RC has a really good warranty.
Yup need adjustable lower also
Hanging up the front shaft was a cool idea for highway driving. I'm going out to adjust my pinion angle shortly because it vibes on the highway with the front shaft on.
I love the American Outlaw II rims on the XJ. It looks stylish and utilitarian.
Hey man. Been keeping up with the Jeep vids for like two years now cuz I had an 89 but now I have a 96. Our set ups our similar and I have also been tackling my steerings bumpsteer/wobble for months now as its my daily too.
It's your track bar dude. The stock bracket on the axle side and your utk drag link are at harsh angles. Just like the control arms the steering does best the more level or parallel to the ground it is. Get a kit that cuts off the track bar axle side bracket and welds on a new one that raises it up and uses a heim joint.
Then raise the drag link either by OTK HD crossover steering or I've been thinking about WJ Knuckles
Working on jeep in the winter time does suck! Lol I have said WTFO for years so glad to here you say it.
Rust and Winter combine to make Jeep owners very special people with a healthy dose of nihilism. 😜
Dont worry about the 3 degree difference. Came across this when i did my three link. I checked every cherokee my family owns (5) and all of them were 3 degrees more on the passenger. No clue why.
Me too :)
because your inner c's are not set at the same caster you can cut the welds and turn them and keep your pinion angle correct while fixing your caster
NickInTimeFilms The degree difference is for road crown. The roads are slanted away from the middle of the road to let rain run off. If the caster was the exact same on it, you'd be fighting the Jeep wanting to head towards the shoulder.
I had this same issue on mine glad I’m not alone lol
First make sure axle is square. Set the angle you need and put drivers side upper control arm in. Do not force the bolt in but adjust until bolt just slips in with no resistance. Drop axle down on ground and put passenger side in the same way with no bolt resistance. Doing it in this manner stops upper arms from fighting each other. They DO NOT need to be equal length nor should they be. This way of doing it is from a thread on adjusting 8 control arms on the jeepforum. I did mine that way and the handling improvement was vastly better. Caster angle is an interplay with pinion angle. Only can do what is necessary to get the diff pointing at the transfer case. It will be what it is.
Yeah, what my lift kit instructions said to do with my adjustable control arms; and, then what Ossie, my alignment guy ended up adjusting to, were way different. I can't remember exactly; but, I think it was set to around 12 and he brought it down to 9? Or was it 6? I forgot; but, the steering was never an issue for me. He set it up to the edge of factory specs. In high speed bumper to bumper traffic, my ZJ is so stable, I can ride in close-quarters traffic with great confidence. I've noticed a lot more Jeeps in his shop, lately, ever since I posted my videos, at Ossie's.
I posted the same video on other websites, not just UA-cam.
What I remember is he shortened the front lower control arms, probably by an inch and a half; than, what the instructions recommended. Everything else was spot on.
Omg makes more sense now. Thanks a lot for the video. Be happy you don't have to work in the PNW rain all the time!
I’ve gotta give it to ya it’s freakin too cold to be workin on the rig these days and you’re out there anyway, thanks man , been having the same problem with my rig now points me in a direction to fix mine too!
Gotta make sure the antler has the correct hangulation so the stuff does the things...
😂
Ya a brace for your steering box is a good route. And plate the frame on the other side. And the inside bracket too!
I've had the steering box bolts come loose on me too didn't know it to my daughter was in my Jeep playing around
Seafoam Creep works best for me. Some people on the interweb have tested a bunch of penetrants and Seafoam does pretty good, if not the best & isn't pricey.
Our hoser friend tested some & it was pretty skookum.
was Gonna comment about the steering box bolts until I saw the little snippet at the end lol
I agree with Watupal your lower control arm bracket has a lot of adjustment room (video 3:51) the bolt looks almost center of adjustment range. I am curious if the passenger side has the same amount of adjustment range? Thanks for the videos I recently installed the iron rock over the knuckle steering set up and didn't even have to read the instructions because I watched your video. LOL I had a bad death wobble issue and one of the problems was the long tie rod end was coming down at a steep angle because of lift causing the ball-joint in the end to try and separate and of coarse there were the other issues so iron rock track bar with drop bracket new hub bearings, adjustable upper control arm along with new axle side upper bushings ( I also watched a video on replacing upper bushings and mine didn't come out anything like the video showed) took me 6 hours and in the video it took less than 15 minutes darn editing LOL looking forward to the longarm install keep up the videos
I can relate so well to this when i built my xj. I might make my own video on this topic. Love your channel bud!
Good rig you have...
That jam nut is also there to keep the pivot part of the control arm true and straight. I had the RHS one come loose and the eye with the flex joint turned and was rubbing on the housing on the chassy making this crap rubbing sound. I got under there, straightened the control arm and tightened the crap of that jam nut = problem solved!
Interesting that there is not more of this on the YJ with leaf springs if raised by longer spring shackles. By just moving the leaf spring down in the front, it rolls the + caster right out of the straight axle. The only way to put it back is a tapered shim under the leaf spring between the spring and axle perch. Pretty rickey dink for security. I have yet to find one UA-cam video on it. Most people blame sorry ride on the track bar on a straight axle.
having adjustable lower arms also allows you to adjust more for the caster or getting long arms, that works to.
+Douglas Hefner true, but then you also change the wheelbase which may cause other clearneces issues.
that is another thing. lots of angles and dangles lol
You changed the wheelbase by only moving the upper. Draw it on a sheet of paper and it will make sense. It’s like the lobe of a cam. If you move the top of the lobe backwards and keep the bottom of the lobe the same then you move the cams center point. 😜
Looks like your bottom control arm frame mount has adjustment built in. Push them to the front. It'll roll the axle the way you need
when that zip tie breaks at 85-90 the front driveshafts gonna go through the floor or launch that things into the air
Who doesn't like a little pole vault action? When I took it on trips I wrapped a ratchet strap around it 20 times and tied the end so it wasn't going anywhere easily. I can leave it attached now that I rebuilt the transfercase though.
NickInTimeFilms ya just looked sketchy... my buddies dad had an escalade where that actually happend. Driveshaft went through the floor between the center captains seats
Enjoy all your videos. Keep up the good work!
So that's the reason shops sell caster sugar, it makes your jeep drive real sweeeeet :).
Sorry, very silly :-D
I'd ditch those heim joints. Ive never understood why people like them on a daily driver. Personally I think the y-link factory geometry steering handles the best especially in preventing bumpsteer. Currie currectlync is great.
+Watupal my problem is the TREs don't last very long, and no company made a proper y-link with replaceable ends. All of them were inverted-t and then you've got Tierod roll to deal with.
Yeah I agree. The inverted t-systems aren't a good choice either imo. I have Rocky-road drop brackets on my jeep similar to yours. You know you can shim the fixed lower control arm! I just used about 1/2" nuts as washers behind the lower control arm and adjusted my uppers. The lower control arm brace is slotted for caster adjustment from the factory.
I kind of thought Ruff Stuff Specialties had an interesting T-link with HD (1-ton) TRE. PLus they make a "washer" that interfaces with the grease boot to "reduce" TRE roll. Maybe a thought?
I've seen "The Cure" before and that is only a bandaid for a terrible design. They wear out fairly quickly and then you're back to square one. The last I saw I think Ironman4x4 was making a proper 1-ton y-link with replaceable ends because they were making a custom passenger outer for proper joint angles. Little pricy for my cheapass but it does look like a solid option
NickInTimeFilms I saw that as well. Looks very interesting indeed. I'm just too much of a wimp to ream out my knuckles. I might reconsider it since I want something new & I've been wanting their track bar. Just rewatched that video you did.
Nice, neat, to the point. I despise videos where they go into everything including why they hate their mother-in-law, or 5 minutes intros. I've led to believe incorrect caster-in harmony with several other factors causes "Death wobble". Believe me at 80mph you want to rule out EVERYTHING!
I'll even let the occasional "F" bomb go, it's America, even escapes from my lips from time to time. Thank you!
Thanks for another great video. What is the length of your upper and lower control arms?
You helped me so much thanks man
Question,,where did you zero the gauge on,,the frame?,,got a solid axle Toyota,,figured if you zero on the frame ,,that would put you and the right track of getting the correct degree
Yeah death wobbles in Cherokees are scary as hell the very first time I got my white 88 Cherokee some drug addicts put a homemade lift kit on this thing they cut the spring perches off the factory axle welded a 4 inch steel block to the axle and then welded the factory spring perches back to the top of put the factory suspension back on it to lift it up off the ground then when I put the track bar in all they did was stick a bolt through it and tack weld the back of it they didn't even put a nut on it on the road and hit a bump a big one and it broke the weld on the boat in the track bar came out and it went into a a really bad high speed death wobble at 50 miles an hour you talking about scary as hell the back wheels were jumping off the ground from left to right I thought I was for a minute going to roll over then about got hit head-on by 18 wheeler locally I didn't thank God will finally I got it out of the road it took me a minute cuz you know when the track bar is not bolted up it don't want to steer with a shit so once I got it off to the side of the road into a gas station parking lot me and a buddy of mine he turn the wheel while on the track bar back up I took a screwdriver and stuck it through the track bar bolt hole then I took a ratchet strap and rest it around the screwdriver and then wrap it around or the track bar goes in ratchet strap it down there so the screwdrivers stay in there and I took a pair of vice grips and clamp to the backside of it and then took a chain and wrapped around all of that I managed to get it home I had to do two miles an hour all the way to the house from where I was at when I pick the vehicle up it normally takes about 20 or 30 minutes to make it home from there and it took me 5 and 1/2 6 hours to get home but when I got it there I parked at Jack the body up and strip the whole front end completely out I got another front end put in it and then went and put a brand new Rusty's 3 and 1/2 inch Offroad lift on the front of it and it came before brand new shocks then I drove it for three years he had four brand-new 31 1050 all-terrain tires on it I drove it everywhere always had a four-wheeler or dirt bike so that's what I took off road well when then finally broke down and I couldn't write them anymore a friend of mine got an S10 Blazer for 300 bucks he put this tripod thing it goes underneath the battery it's for a vacuum advance so the 4-wheel drive work he fixed it we got some 33s we Groove them cut the fenders on the Blazer and put them on there he talked me into taking my shit to the woods so I did and then I was hooked ever since I rolled it over one time with the 31s on it then I wasn't pleased anymore so I went ahead and got rid of the 31 and went to some 33 and I've never ever had an issue out of it I've never rolled over again now with the suspension lift on this Jeep like I said I had to rush these three and a half inch up front in a four and a half inch Block in the rear now the only downfall it ruins your factory Springs after a long while of stretching and flexing but with it being that way I flex that thing as hard as I can and never ever pull the tire off the ground and lets the front wheel I've only thing that I ever broke was a universal in the rear drive shaft and that's it hell I drove this thing for three years with the driver side front axle universal joint clicking making horrible noise but it never broke when we finally decided to change it the actual universal joint when you pulled the Caps off they look like star heads like a throwing star the Caps didn't even have bearings in them where the cap slides onto the universal it was oval-shaped and my buddy looked at me and said how in the hell did you not break that because I know how you drive this Jeep Drive the hell out of it when they're going to slow in the trail lol and it never broke and not only that it was a daily driver on top of that but I just could not kill that damn thing now it's got a brand new rear end in it just waiting to be beat on but Jeeps are fun like I said I would never ever get rid of mine I've on mine for 16 years out of that 16 years eight of those years or eight and a half of those years I drove it with it Knocking and 7 pounds of oil pressure and drove it everywhere and four-wheel the hell out of it well I finally got another vehicle so I parked it and it's been parked ever since I think it's been riding a year now then the last time I started it up
Great vid as always I like this channel
Did I just see that right? Your Drive Shaft is just hanging there?! How does that affect it and your drive? I usually take mine out if I don't need it. Pain in the @$$ to take in & out a lot. X-)
Yeah, for long highway drives I just zip tie it up so I can cruise at 85mph without shakes. Only problem is the slip joint gets stiff real quick when it doesn't get used which makes re-installing a pain. I need to pull the t-case and replace the front bearings to remove the yoke slop, just haven't felt like it yet.
NickInTimeFilms I hear ya. My front pinon bearing needs replacing but having found the time with the winter. Your Tcase would make for an interesting video. 😁
I have been wondering the same thing ever since I first watched the video months ago.
Are ur lca adjustable if so lengthen them
Do you have front end vibes when the front driveshat is bolted in after this adjustment?
Also, what kind of fuel mileage do you get now?
+My_Name_Is_Chef Heh, it ain't pretty. With a Renix 4.6L stroker pushing 35x12.5" tires with 4.56 gears, I average 10-11 mpgs. I just recently did some wideband o2 tuning and I might be closer to 15mpg now though, need to drive it more to find out but it's looks much better.
NickInTimeFilms well I didn't think it'd be good XD but I was curious. My finished jeep should be 33" tires and a 4.5" long arm lift. My drive to work with a 3" lift and 31s results in 14mpg. Through town. But I would be pretty happy with 15👌
Hi there, please l just need a little advise. I've a 89 jeep cherokee as in this video, but, with 3" of lift and 31" of tires, l think l have to adjust the caster too, so, my question is, do l have put the caster in the same degree as in this video , 6 degrees, or less ? Thank you so much for your reply. Bye Moreno.
There was a chart somewhere that had slightly different angles for different heights so it may be worth looking up
Oops, my passenger's side was 0, my driver's side was 5. No wonder I had death wobble.
Looks like it is time for long arms now....
When you go long arm.....(whispers) go high steer also
Just curious what you mean? Iro heim steering doesn’t work with long arms?
It does, just another possible mod to do.
Did u take in account you were parked on a hill?
Yes, I measured the ground before hand and it's level, but that is important to get this corrected.
@@NickInTimeFilms I'm sure you did just a thought.. I know when my way together I had similar problem I had to push the lowers out to get enough adjustment almost like a 2 in stretch drove like a dream how yours handling now? Ever consider wj knuckles ?
@@Cmecandido it seemed to track better after caster adjustment. I recently replaced a lot of stuff trying to fix death wobble so it isn't too bad any more, but makes me wonder about hydro assist or a pitmen brace to really clean up the last bit of play.
Still wandering if you can’t just zero out on the frame rail,,say in the area on the frame under the door,,the longest flat lengths of the frame,,it looks if you was zeroed out to the frame ,,you would read correct degree of caster,,it would rule out un level ground
@@NickInTimeFilms yeah with tires over 33 I think a brace would be good . I don't have one but I know u can get some good movement . My wj was lifted 8 inches and I went thru every thing and I could a 1 inch crack on the track bar bracket gusset but couldn't tell without having some one turn the wheel while on the ground and finally found it. It was only a tiny crack but the movement was like 1/4 inch at the bottom of the brace. After I welded it it was like new. But finding it was a pain. What condition is your steering box
*A H E L L O F A F I G H T*
Anti seize that SOB
Lower speeds... 55-60! LOL
wrong way mechanic