Awesome. I have been reading a lot of forum posts on lifts and never could figure out the theory behind lifts and getting the drive line in sync. Nice to see a young kid that has so much good knowledge and the ability to convey it so well.
Great video! I'm pretty sure about 80% of off road shops don't even know how to fix this, they just install whatever is in the kit. Also, you remind me of Cameron on Ferris Bueller's Day Off! Oh, cool cat.
You killed it. For some reason, the way you explained this concept made me totally get it. I'm an educator myself, and if you haven't already, you should consider that career!
Well, I thought your explanation was great, fantastic even. I purchased a set of rear leaf springs that had single 3 degree shims fitted to each one "supposedly" to correct the pinon angle being raised to far after a 2" lift on my 4x4. That's all well and good but they had the shims facing the wrong way around with the thin side to the front which I now know made it worse. So, I went out and bought larger shims & fitted them the same way again which only made things even worse and I couldn't work out why. I now know why, so thank you very much. I should be able to get it sorted out now. Cheers.
Excellent educational video most people would simply install a kit without paying closer attention to the shift in the structure of the vehicle and how important the angles are for vibrations, wear and tear.
Excellent video! Installed slightly taller springs on my Lexus GX and now getting a slight vibration at highway speeds from the rear end. I think this is the issues and your video explains so well what it might be. Thank you.
Great vid. I'll add it's recommended to have the rear diff down 1 degree from the transmission / transfer case output. When you're driving it will torque the rear differential and it will lift a small amount. That way when you're cruising they're parallel but parked it's down 1 degree
this actually helped me a lot. I was installing my CS009R springs and I had the axle resting on a jack while I was working on getting the axle lined up with the pins on the springs and it rolled and the slip yolk came out of my drive shaft. I thought I got it lined up the way it was but then I had massive driveline vibes at highway speed. A little research lead me to YotaTech which lead me here and I realized I was about 70-80 degrees out of phase. took my shaft off and I found an old match mark so I lined up in the zerks and got them all lined up with the yokes in line on each end and boom no more vibes.
I am off to get an angle finder this morning I guess.... Not a truck, but I have a 1970 Ford Torino that vibrates BADLY while accelerating. I have three to four inches of shackle lift, plus some shocks with external springs, and an OLD driveshaft. I also suspect my slip yoke bushing is also worn, since I can feel looseness side to side when I push and pull on it. SO, I may end up hunting down angle shims today or tomorrow. The slip yoke thing may become less of an issue if the angles are correct, and then I can deal with that when I can find a bushing puller and installer tools. Not a daily driver, just a toy thankfully. I am also looking to get the driveshaft balanced, or at least check it to be sure.
Some Great Vids Alex.. I have an 87 4x4 pickup and your videos have helped me out a Ton.. just installed new 2" OME leafs, shocks all around and bj spacers..and have a slight vibration now, looks like some shims will be the fix
Thank you for this great video. Very informative. So I may not need to buy a SYE and a new drive shaft. But before I do anything I’ll buy a inclinometer to get the angles correctly measured.
Minimum Operating Angle Of 1/2 Degree A slight angle is required to prevent U-joints from wearing out from brinelling, providing a smooth flow of power through the driveline. It is similar to intentionally putting a pre-load on a wheel bearing. Maximum Operating Angle Of 3 Degrees
Watched your video on pinion angle, and it was very informative. Had a question though, if the angles were reversed, meaning if the rear was 86 and the front was 82, if you use the axle shims would you put the in facing the opposite way as shown in the video. Hope this makes sense.
Awesome vid. Love those old yotas. I was going to purchase the same skid plate it's good to know about pinion angle change. Would rather install all parts needed when your underneath the truck. Keep the build going looks awesome!
Thank you. I'm glad you liked the video. The BudBuilt skidplate is a nice piece but it will change the pinion angle. Having all the stuff at once is a plus. Thanks for the feedback.
Great video. Using shim will solve pinion angle problem. But it will lead to change in caster angle which In turn will largely affect the stability of the vehicle at high speeds.
Excellent Video! What if you have drive line vibration and you ARE using double cardan shafts? I just re-geared my JK from 4:10 to 5:38 and immediately noticed vibration on the highway.. I'm using double cardan 1350's front and rear.
+TomVaillencourt The end of the driveshaft with the single cardan should be perfectly in line with whatever it's connecting to. The double cardan end can be at any angle and still not vibrate. Typically the double cardan is connected to the transmission/transfer case output and the single cardan is connected to the differential.
Just got my bronco back from the spring shop for new springs and 1 inch lift, it’s vibrating like crazy. It appears they set it up for a single joint and it has a factory double cardan! Thanks for the very informative video. I know what to ask them about now
What if the trans side is cv and the rear end is ujoint ……I’ve been search days now since putting iron man heavy duty leafs on .they’re suppose to be only a 1.5”-2” lift but a direct replacement for oem ,supposedly …when installing ( my first time doing leaf springs ) I noticed the rear of the axle touched the spring first leaving between 1/4” & 1/2” of gap in Front of the plate( leafs under axle) …so not knowing I just torqued down to spec ….and it was vibration time from 25 mph up to 40 mph….not getting two Same answers on how to get back to normal angles I ordered shims that were approximately the height of that gap ( 2.5 degree) out of frustration…havent gotten em in yet should be tomorrow …but now I’m thinking since the new leafs gave me an actual almost 4” lift ( I assume because of old ones being shot ,along with the drivers side having a broken leaf and the Xterra has 170k miles ..that from stock new leafs it’d only be a actual 2”lift) that maybe 2.5 isn’t enough shim angle …..my drive shafts at 10.1 degrees and the ear end Is at 4.8 degrees( both in some direction) …..since no ujoint at tranny ( all forums say they’re cv’ instead, but I don’t know ) and there was definitely some angle before , that I’ll subtract 4.8 from 10.1 which gets me 5.3….now 2.5 shim would bring me to 2.8 and that’s sounds about right ….though I have no clue lol
thanks for sharing, this answers a question i had about the driveshaft it's self...i have a 4runner almost restored with the same vent windows...Creator bless...doug
Got an 07 FJ cruiser Stock diff, stock rear link length/mounts Doing a diesel swap / prerunner swap (removed front diff) New ranny has a slip yoke and is 2wd Factory pinion flange on the diff is 5 degrees up Does that mean I should try to get the output of the trans slip at 5 degrees down?
Loved the video thanks, can you explain how the angles should be on a 2 piece drive shaft I have a shutter on take off only, has a 4" sky jacker lift installed
loved the video i am quite a car guy myself i do it for a living i was wondering if you have any info on angles for the new constant velocity joined drive shafts jeeps are running basically i have a customer killing those shafts with a bad lift kit and wants the cheapest least mods to just fix that angle i was thinking shimming the tranny lower where it bolts to the frame prob cheapest fix any other ideas or any technical info on the angles and levels required for those?
ok. i own a freightliner truck. my transmission is 4 degree down. then i have 4 U joints after all the way back to the rear end. its a 3 piece shaft. also i have 2 center bearings. the rear end in 10 degree UP. and the shaft is about 1 degree on all the joints. I'm having a big vibration after 50 mph. i have change all the joints. tires. rims even the shaft. what do you think i have to do? do i have to bring the pinion down? and how much down? ( and its a very long shaft to.) tks
What happens under hard acceleration or pulling a heavy load and there's some axle wrap going on. Which in some cases can be quite significant. In changing pinion angles
The pinion points up during acceleration. Traction bars can help with axle wrap. There's a handful of other options too if you really need to fix it. Some people preload the pinion angle a degree or so down to compensate for this.
Great video, thanks but i have a question what happens when is a 2 piece driveshaft? Im doing an axle swap from a newer truck and is bigger then my stock one
I trussed my axles and changed the pinion angle to be direct to the transfer case yoke, not knowing any of this and once I started learning about phasing I was pretty sure I had screwed my driveline up, luckily rear drive shaft has a double cardan so it worked out...even tho I apparently had no idea what the hell i was doing.
Thanks for the vid....just to confirm, putting the fat end of the wedge forward towards the pinion/front of truck, is how you lower the pinion angle, by pushing the axle down , is the correct? all over tacomaworld, there are people saying that the skinny side goes forward, i'm pretty sure that would tilt the pinion up..?
A slip yolk eliminator kit and a double cardan drive shaft is the best solution, but in that case, you want your diff pointed directly at the transfer case
9 років тому
Just bought a 91 Toyota Pickup w/5" Lift Kit. Once in a while there's a loud grinding and vibration. How can I find out if its the Drive Shaft or Pinion angle into the Front Differential?
I have a 76 w100 dodge 4×4 I put a 4 inch spring lift rough country front drive shaft vibration at certain speeds I have had it out every since I put the lift under it I didn't want to cause any problems with it what will level it
Opinions needed here, My pinion angle is very steep, and I believe this is due to having tapered lift blocks. I've been problem solving in my head and I think that with my setup I could just put the blocks in backwards, thiccc end closer to the front, in a similar way that the leaf spring shim was mounted, and it might push my pinion angle down making it parallel again. Would that work??
have a 31 model a small block 350 trans posi rear 29 tall tires. problem . trans out put shaft lower than pinon about 2 3/4 inch difference between them was told to put pinon 2 degrees low with engine manifold level. what you think thanks very much
WOW thanks that was useful. i want to get a 6" lift kit for my k20 suburban and i dont want to lower the drive case how i can do that? get longer drive shaft ?
With a double cardan. My crank/ouput shaft is 3+, the driveshaft is 11+, the yoke 8+ . Seems pretty smooth overall and almost normal. Gets viby around 2200 to 2300. Just paranoid my angles are bad. I have like 7 degree in the back, any comments appreciated. The driveshaft is only 13 3/4" so it's difficult. Lowered the motor trans 2" to clear the trans without major gutting. thanks
I have a lifted 2006 Silverado Ext Cab. Has a Carrier of course. I may have this situation. A slight vibration. Wheels are balanced!. My 2002 1500 Reg Cab/short bed Z71 was stolen out of my driveway 13 days ago. No problems. I want to tackle this pinion angle correctly. Are you in California or elsewhere?
Here's a stupid question. I just picked up a 98 Jeep Cherokee and added a 2.5" lift "add-a-leaf" to get rid of sag in the stock rear suspension. It added about 3" instead of the 2.5. It's actually more than I needed and I have a pretty big rake going on now. In hindsight, I should have purchased a 1.5" kit. I now have, what I think is, a drive line vibration when I let off the accelerator as a result. Would the difference in lift between the front and back cause a pinion angle problem? If I put in 2-2.5" coil spring spacers on the front, will that help to correct the pinion angle and hopefully end the vibration?
Lifting the front would not change the angle between your axle and transmission. It would bring the pinion angle up, but it would also change the transmission angle the exact same amount. What you need is something to change the angle between the axle and transmission. It is pretty hard to change the transmission angle, although it isn't impossible. The easiest solution is axle shims as shown in this video. You'll need to figure out how far off you are, and buy shims to match. Springs generally settle after a bit of time and driving. Some people add weight or try to flex the suspension a lot to break them in faster.
I know this is an old video, so not sure if you still check your replies or not. I recently put a 3" lift on my Jeep JK with front lower adjustable control arms. I had an alignment done and everything was great. Then, I put a new Adams 1310 driveshaft in the front. I started get bad vibrations. I brought it in for another alignment and they say the angles are right, but I'm still getting a pulsating vibration at about 60mph. I took a picture for the driveshaft company and they said I need to raise my pinion angle a degree or two. (Not sure how to do that sine my control arms are as short as you can get them. Is this a problem with phasing? According to the alignment report, my camber is .6 degrees. My caster is 5.0 degrees. Toe (if it matters) is .12. I've tried moving things around, but nothing gets rid of the vibration. My tires are shitty, wonder if that's a cause?
Really great video! Well done! I have a double cardan set up so is there a specific pinion angle I should have or just get it to exact parallel with drive shaft? Thanks for insight.
Pinion and driveshaft should be in line. Some people claim that the pinion should be 1 degree down so that under load it straightens out but I did not do that.
Thanks for posting this video. Now I understand drivelines. If I run double cardians at both ends of the driveshaft will it pretty much take care of any angle imperfections without a pinion shim? I currently have a driveshaft out of a '73 lincoln continental that has cardians on both ends.
If your shaft has one double cardan that will be the joint that will have the angle. You will typically need to point the pinion straight with the driveshaft. This can cause lubrication problems on lifted trucks. If you have a shaft with double cardan on both ends I believe you will not need to worry about any angles. However a double cardan is heavy and will add unsprung weight to your axle. Little bumpier ride going over the potholes perhaps. :)
To a small extent on some vehicles, you can raise or lower the back end of the transmission to adjust the angle so the trans and pinion are parallel. Otherwise, you need adjustable control arms.
Most rear lift blocks from reputable manufacturers tilt the pinion upward to compensate for the increased angle. The real issue is the shortening of the overall length of the driveshaft which pulls the yolk further out of the transmission tail shaft, requiring a pinion shim to extend to its proper position.
Sir, I have a 2019 Silverado Trail Boss. It came with a 2" factory block in the rear. I removed it recently to make my truck level. Do you think I need to use shims now, or should I be ok?
Excellent tutorial on what can be a very confusing subject when simply explained and not shown. Well done Alex.
You have a talent to teach as well as being a good mechanic. Thanks for posting this...very informative.
this was one of the best videos I've found describing the reasoning for shims and driveline angles. Thanks!
Wow, a video that actually shows you how to fix something, not just identify the problem. Thanks
Videos like this are hard to find. Well done!
Awesome. I have been reading a lot of forum posts on lifts and never could figure out the theory behind lifts and getting the drive line in sync. Nice to see a young kid that has so much good knowledge and the ability to convey it so well.
I comment rarely, but this was perfectly explained! I don't need to watch another video on drive-line angles. Thank you
Great video! I'm pretty sure about 80% of off road shops don't even know how to fix this, they just install whatever is in the kit. Also, you remind me of Cameron on Ferris Bueller's Day Off! Oh, cool cat.
You killed it. For some reason, the way you explained this concept made me totally get it. I'm an educator myself, and if you haven't already, you should consider that career!
Well, I thought your explanation was great, fantastic even.
I purchased a set of rear leaf springs that had single 3 degree shims fitted to each one "supposedly" to correct the pinon angle being raised to far after a 2" lift on my 4x4.
That's all well and good but they had the shims facing the wrong way around with the thin side to the front which I now know made it worse.
So, I went out and bought larger shims & fitted them the same way again which only made things even worse and I couldn't work out why. I now know why, so thank you very much. I should be able to get it sorted out now.
Cheers.
I cannot thank you enough for this video. I had no idea how to correct the pinion angle after adding lift blocks. Great explanation.
Same hear. Bad vibes at 70.after tapered lift blocks
Hey Alex, thanks for creating this video. You made a complicated topic easy for me to understand and helped with my own lift project. Keep em coming!
This is exactly what I needed thanks dude. I was struggling trying to find a solid video that showed and explained everything
Excellent educational video most people would simply install a kit without paying closer attention to the shift in the structure of the vehicle and how important the angles are for vibrations, wear and tear.
Cameron from Ferris Buellers Day Off did a great job explaining pinion angles. Thanks!
👍👍👍👍👍👍. Thank you for this video. U just save me $400 on a drive shaft I didn’t need. Now the vibration is gone on my Jeep.
Well done. You'd make a great teacher .....if you're not one already. Keep the tutorials coming!
Excellent video! Installed slightly taller springs on my Lexus GX and now getting a slight vibration at highway speeds from the rear end. I think this is the issues and your video explains so well what it might be. Thank you.
Great vid. I'll add it's recommended to have the rear diff down 1 degree from the transmission / transfer case output. When you're driving it will torque the rear differential and it will lift a small amount. That way when you're cruising they're parallel but parked it's down 1 degree
That’s the best video I have watched on the vibration subject. Thank you
Wish I had seen this tutorial 10 videos ago! Thanks for the great info👍🏽!
this actually helped me a lot. I was installing my CS009R springs and I had the axle resting on a jack while I was working on getting the axle lined up with the pins on the springs and it rolled and the slip yolk came out of my drive shaft. I thought I got it lined up the way it was but then I had massive driveline vibes at highway speed. A little research lead me to YotaTech which lead me here and I realized I was about 70-80 degrees out of phase. took my shaft off and I found an old match mark so I lined up in the zerks and got them all lined up with the yokes in line on each end and boom no more vibes.
Toyota, hire this guy now.
🙌🏼 thanks bro my grandfather said a simple idea making a big difference.
I am off to get an angle finder this morning I guess.... Not a truck, but I have a 1970 Ford Torino that vibrates BADLY while accelerating. I have three to four inches of shackle lift, plus some shocks with external springs, and an OLD driveshaft. I also suspect my slip yoke bushing is also worn, since I can feel looseness side to side when I push and pull on it. SO, I may end up hunting down angle shims today or tomorrow. The slip yoke thing may become less of an issue if the angles are correct, and then I can deal with that when I can find a bushing puller and installer tools. Not a daily driver, just a toy thankfully. I am also looking to get the driveshaft balanced, or at least check it to be sure.
Some Great Vids Alex.. I have an 87 4x4 pickup and your videos have helped me out a Ton.. just installed new 2" OME leafs, shocks all around and bj spacers..and have a slight vibration now, looks like some shims will be the fix
Glad I was able to help out. Hopefully the shims cure your problems.
Thank you for this great video. Very informative. So I may not need to buy a SYE and a new drive shaft. But before I do anything I’ll buy a inclinometer to get the angles correctly measured.
Thank you great work absolutely brilliant clear and straight to the point from Australia.
Minimum Operating Angle Of 1/2 Degree
A slight angle is required to prevent U-joints from wearing out from brinelling, providing a smooth flow of power through the driveline. It is similar to intentionally putting a pre-load on a wheel bearing.
Maximum Operating Angle Of 3 Degrees
Watched your video on pinion angle, and it was very informative. Had a question though, if the angles were reversed, meaning if the rear was 86 and the front was 82, if you use the axle shims would you put the in facing the opposite way as shown in the video. Hope this makes sense.
Very informative and addressed my slight vibration in my truck
Finally a good explanation of how this works!
I have a 2 piece drive shaft. Curious how that plays into the scenario you discussed?
Awesome vid. Love those old yotas. I was going to purchase the same skid plate it's good to know about pinion angle change. Would rather install all parts needed when your underneath the truck. Keep the build going looks awesome!
Thank you. I'm glad you liked the video. The BudBuilt skidplate is a nice piece but it will change the pinion angle. Having all the stuff at once is a plus. Thanks for the feedback.
Awesome video and explains the why and how to fix the issue.
Great video.
Using shim will solve pinion angle problem. But it will lead to change in caster angle which In turn will largely affect the stability of the vehicle at high speeds.
No such thing as caster on a rear axle (without steering).
Thanks for explaining this clearly and also providing solutions! Great video!
Great explanation, i now have a better understanding of drive shaft vibration, thanks. I like how you explain while drawing
Excellent Video! What if you have drive line vibration and you ARE using double cardan shafts? I just re-geared my JK from 4:10 to 5:38 and immediately noticed vibration on the highway.. I'm using double cardan 1350's front and rear.
+TomVaillencourt The end of the driveshaft with the single cardan should be perfectly in line with whatever it's connecting to. The double cardan end can be at any angle and still not vibrate. Typically the double cardan is connected to the transmission/transfer case output and the single cardan is connected to the differential.
+TheAlexManVideos thanks for the response! I will double check my pinion angles!
Just got my bronco back from the spring shop for new springs and 1 inch lift, it’s vibrating like crazy. It appears they set it up for a single joint and it has a factory double cardan! Thanks for the very informative video. I know what to ask them about now
well done and very well explained by someone who really knows stuff.
This is literally the BEST video I have found about pinion angle!!! Awesome work man. Subscribed ✅
the beggining was my favorite lol
Nice video!! I have a 1985 4runner SR5 5 speed, and i have a 4 in lift on it with the double cardan driveshaft, how is the drive shaft to be mounted?
What if the trans side is cv and the rear end is ujoint ……I’ve been search days now since putting iron man heavy duty leafs on .they’re suppose to be only a 1.5”-2” lift but a direct replacement for oem ,supposedly …when installing ( my first time doing leaf springs ) I noticed the rear of the axle touched the spring first leaving between 1/4” & 1/2” of gap in Front of the plate( leafs under axle) …so not knowing I just torqued down to spec ….and it was vibration time from 25 mph up to 40 mph….not getting two Same answers on how to get back to normal angles I ordered shims that were approximately the height of that gap ( 2.5 degree) out of frustration…havent gotten em in yet should be tomorrow …but now I’m thinking since the new leafs gave me an actual almost 4” lift ( I assume because of old ones being shot ,along with the drivers side having a broken leaf and the Xterra has 170k miles ..that from stock new leafs it’d only be a actual 2”lift) that maybe 2.5 isn’t enough shim angle …..my drive shafts at 10.1 degrees and the ear end Is at 4.8 degrees( both in some direction) …..since no ujoint at tranny ( all forums say they’re cv’ instead, but I don’t know ) and there was definitely some angle before , that I’ll subtract 4.8 from 10.1 which gets me 5.3….now 2.5 shim would bring me to 2.8 and that’s sounds about right ….though I have no clue lol
Best video on springs I’ve seen! Good job 👍
thanks for sharing, this answers a question i had about the driveshaft it's self...i have a 4runner almost restored with the same vent windows...Creator bless...doug
Thanks for making that. I lifted my S10 and have bad shakes from the driveline. I think that was the issue
Got an 07 FJ cruiser
Stock diff, stock rear link length/mounts
Doing a diesel swap / prerunner swap (removed front diff)
New ranny has a slip yoke and is 2wd
Factory pinion flange on the diff is 5 degrees up
Does that mean I should try to get the output of the trans slip at 5 degrees down?
Loved the video thanks, can you explain how the angles should be on a 2 piece drive shaft
I have a shutter on take off only, has a 4" sky jacker lift installed
Glad I found this, I may have installed my shims in backwards. Good info👍🏻
I did TWICE...
loved the video i am quite a car guy myself i do it for a living i was wondering if you have any info on angles for the new constant velocity joined drive shafts jeeps are running basically i have a customer killing those shafts with a bad lift kit and wants the cheapest least mods to just fix that angle i was thinking shimming the tranny lower where it bolts to the frame prob cheapest fix any other ideas or any technical info on the angles and levels required for those?
What if you have a 2 parts driveshaft and theres no double ujoint but another one in the middle of the driving shaft!?
ok. i own a freightliner truck. my transmission is 4 degree down. then i have 4 U joints after all the way back to the rear end. its a 3 piece shaft. also i have 2 center bearings. the rear end in 10 degree UP. and the shaft is about 1 degree on all the joints. I'm having a big vibration after 50 mph. i have change all the joints. tires. rims even the shaft. what do you think i have to do? do i have to bring the pinion down? and how much down? ( and its a very long shaft to.) tks
What happens under hard acceleration or pulling a heavy load and there's some axle wrap going on. Which in some cases can be quite significant. In changing pinion angles
The pinion points up during acceleration. Traction bars can help with axle wrap. There's a handful of other options too if you really need to fix it. Some people preload the pinion angle a degree or so down to compensate for this.
Would this type of measuring still work for a Toyota with a center carrier bearing? Or would the adjustments have to be done a different way?
Great video, thanks but i have a question what happens when is a 2 piece driveshaft? Im doing an axle swap from a newer truck and is bigger then my stock one
I trussed my axles and changed the pinion angle to be direct to the transfer case yoke, not knowing any of this and once I started learning about phasing I was pretty sure I had screwed my driveline up, luckily rear drive shaft has a double cardan so it worked out...even tho I apparently had no idea what the hell i was doing.
Thanks for the vid....just to confirm, putting the fat end of the wedge forward towards the pinion/front of truck, is how you lower the pinion angle, by pushing the axle down , is the correct? all over tacomaworld, there are people saying that the skinny side goes forward, i'm pretty sure that would tilt the pinion up..?
Ben watchin driveshaft videos last hour.... this one makes sense!! Time to get to work!!... thank man!
A slip yolk eliminator kit and a double cardan drive shaft is the best solution, but in that case, you want your diff pointed directly at the transfer case
Just bought a 91 Toyota Pickup w/5" Lift Kit.
Once in a while there's a loud grinding and vibration.
How can I find out if its the Drive Shaft or Pinion angle into the Front Differential?
I have a 76 w100 dodge 4×4 I put a 4 inch spring lift rough country front drive shaft vibration at certain speeds I have had it out every since I put the lift under it I didn't want to cause any problems with it what will level it
Opinions needed here,
My pinion angle is very steep, and I believe this is due to having tapered lift blocks. I've been problem solving in my head and I think that with my setup I could just put the blocks in backwards, thiccc end closer to the front, in a similar way that the leaf spring shim was mounted, and it might push my pinion angle down making it parallel again.
Would that work??
have a 31 model a small block 350 trans posi rear 29 tall tires. problem . trans out put shaft lower than pinon about 2 3/4 inch difference between them was told to put pinon 2 degrees low with engine manifold level. what you think thanks very much
Good video, but why is there a delorean and a flux capacitor on the paper?
Awesome video! What I wonder is if this fixed the newer Tacomas that have the carrier bearing?
Very well done young man, 2 thumbs up!!!
Excellent video. Clear and concise. Thank you.
Great video have a slight vibration after lifting my Jeep more so I'll try this. Thanks
WOW thanks that was useful. i want to get a 6" lift kit for my k20 suburban and i dont want to lower the drive case how i can do that? get longer drive shaft ?
Great video!!! Thank you so much for this through explanation! I even went and explained it to my wife... AND SHE UNDERSTOOD! :)
With a double cardan. My crank/ouput shaft is 3+, the driveshaft is 11+, the yoke 8+ . Seems pretty smooth overall and almost normal. Gets viby around 2200 to 2300. Just paranoid my angles are bad. I have like 7 degree in the back, any comments appreciated. The driveshaft is only 13 3/4" so it's difficult. Lowered the motor trans 2" to clear the trans without major gutting. thanks
Hi. So what degree you get now? what angle?
GREAT video! THANK YOU for the good clear explanation
Can i use a double cardan as a spacer for a shot driveshaft? Thanks in advance
Excellent video. Very well said. Good instruction, very thorough. 👍
Can you pair these shims with a lifted block from a lift kit?
I have a lifted 2006 Silverado Ext Cab. Has a Carrier of course. I may have this situation. A slight vibration. Wheels are balanced!. My 2002 1500 Reg Cab/short bed Z71 was stolen out of my driveway 13 days ago. No problems. I want to tackle this pinion angle correctly. Are you in California or elsewhere?
Alex your video is A1 and yes Paul at 4Crawler makes some nice gear
Here's a stupid question. I just picked up a 98 Jeep Cherokee and added a 2.5" lift "add-a-leaf" to get rid of sag in the stock rear suspension. It added about 3" instead of the 2.5. It's actually more than I needed and I have a pretty big rake going on now. In hindsight, I should have purchased a 1.5" kit. I now have, what I think is, a drive line vibration when I let off the accelerator as a result. Would the difference in lift between the front and back cause a pinion angle problem? If I put in 2-2.5" coil spring spacers on the front, will that help to correct the pinion angle and hopefully end the vibration?
Lifting the front would not change the angle between your axle and transmission. It would bring the pinion angle up, but it would also change the transmission angle the exact same amount. What you need is something to change the angle between the axle and transmission. It is pretty hard to change the transmission angle, although it isn't impossible. The easiest solution is axle shims as shown in this video. You'll need to figure out how far off you are, and buy shims to match. Springs generally settle after a bit of time and driving. Some people add weight or try to flex the suspension a lot to break them in faster.
Great info, no bs. You may have just saved my jeep!
I know this is an old video, so not sure if you still check your replies or not. I recently put a 3" lift on my Jeep JK with front lower adjustable control arms. I had an alignment done and everything was great. Then, I put a new Adams 1310 driveshaft in the front. I started get bad vibrations. I brought it in for another alignment and they say the angles are right, but I'm still getting a pulsating vibration at about 60mph. I took a picture for the driveshaft company and they said I need to raise my pinion angle a degree or two. (Not sure how to do that sine my control arms are as short as you can get them. Is this a problem with phasing? According to the alignment report, my camber is .6 degrees. My caster is 5.0 degrees. Toe (if it matters) is .12. I've tried moving things around, but nothing gets rid of the vibration. My tires are shitty, wonder if that's a cause?
Really great video! Well done! I have a double cardan set up so is there a specific pinion angle I should have or just get it to exact parallel with drive shaft? Thanks for insight.
Pinion and driveshaft should be in line. Some people claim that the pinion should be 1 degree down so that under load it straightens out but I did not do that.
Gotta 1st gen tundra and its been a shaker. Not the wheels, not the brakes, dont think the axle shafts are bent so its got to be the driveshaft.
Thanks for posting this video. Now I understand drivelines. If I run double cardians at both ends of the driveshaft will it pretty much take care of any angle imperfections without a pinion shim? I currently have a driveshaft out of a '73 lincoln continental that has cardians on both ends.
If your shaft has one double cardan that will be the joint that will have the angle. You will typically need to point the pinion straight with the driveshaft. This can cause lubrication problems on lifted trucks. If you have a shaft with double cardan on both ends I believe you will not need to worry about any angles. However a double cardan is heavy and will add unsprung weight to your axle. Little bumpier ride going over the potholes perhaps. :)
Hey mate is this the same operation on a 3 part join propshaft?
How do you change the pinion angle if my car has solid rear axle and not leaf springs? What do you suggest?
To a small extent on some vehicles, you can raise or lower the back end of the transmission to adjust the angle so the trans and pinion are parallel. Otherwise, you need adjustable control arms.
great video very simple and easy explanation
Great video -- thank you for the effort you've put into this!
Thanks! Just the info I needed! very cut and clear!
Thank you for your good explanation
Great vid - you explain things so well
Great video, and your correct Paul is the man!!
Brilliant. Outstanding explanations mate.
Most rear lift blocks from reputable manufacturers tilt the pinion upward to compensate for the increased angle. The real issue is the shortening of the overall length of the driveshaft which pulls the yolk further out of the transmission tail shaft, requiring a pinion shim to extend to its proper position.
The driveshaft does not shorten. The distance between the transmission and pinion yokes is increased.
TheAlexManVideos *Oh thank you Einstein*
Sir, I have a 2019 Silverado Trail Boss. It came with a 2" factory block in the rear. I removed it recently to make my truck level. Do you think I need to use shims now, or should I be ok?
Depends on a few factors. You need to measure like I demonstrated in this video.
Great video overall. 👍Some good info I needed to align my pinion angle.
So your saying that if the angle position of the transmission is 86° and the pinion is 86° that's the correct working angles ?
For a driveshaft with a single joint at both ends, yes.
Good explanation.... thanks for taking time to post......