How Medieval Men Dressed.
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- Опубліковано 15 чер 2024
- High Status Late 15th Century Men's clothing. What are the importance of points? Why shouldn't I see your doublet? How many layers should you wear?
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Nice to see the emphasis on it being high status. One of my favorite medieval illustrations is one of a 15th century doublet-maker being himself dressed in the ye olde tunic & hose that had been in use in some form for the previous 1500 years.
The doublet/cote combination is definitely used throughout society. The forms are slightly different depending on status, along with the materials.
How the fuck could he fit his boxers into his tights without it bunching it up? 🎭🩰🎨
Excellent quick but detailed presentation on men's clothing that usually does not get the attention that does the ladies costumes.
Thank you
How the fuck could he fit his boxers into his tights without it bunching it up? 🎭🩰🎨
I haven't been so interested in men's medieval clothing, but seeing this and these images, I may have to dig a little deeper. I am weak for a puffy sleeve...
Thank you! I was going mad trying to understand what was under the cote!
This look needs to make a comeback.
How the fuck could he fit his boxers into his tights without it bunching it up? 🎭🩰🎨
Something to note belts reenactors habitually do the belt knot. Look through medieval art. It is there, but it is not the norm.
Another excellent video Zac. But you forgot your bling! My 1480s high status gown is from the same silk but a different colour 😉
Howdy Zac. Nice video that I'm going to share with my Lysts on the Lake community for the upcoming event.
One thing that my wife and I do on my 15th c. coats to help with the pleating (she's a costume designer and found evidence of this somewhere) is to tack down the inside of each pleat to a band of material (fustian, I believe, about 3" wide) along the inside of the coat at the actual waistline (and about where you'd wear the belt on the outside). This keeps all the pleats in the same place (although it still takes a small bit of arranging them to lay flat, in the right direction, both front and back...which are then held in place on the outside by your belt). In addition, we attach some form of closure on the ends of this band which helps keep the coat closed. Since this area is what generally takes a lot of stress, the added band there helps with the stress relief on all the other closures you might have on the rest of the coat.
I've been looking for this video. I'm in the midst of internet research for a historical 15th century merchant kit (rennfaire use) thank you for the helpful information!
Happy to help. I'm hoping to do some lower status stuff soon as well.
I knew I was on to something when I pointed my hose to my doublet! When my hose were pointed to the braies they just didn't give the correct silhuoette. I have to reinforce the lacing holes but I am now vindicated for lacing my hose to my doublet directly and letting my hose just be underwear.
How the fuck could he fit his boxers into his tights without it bunching it up? 🎭🩰🎨
Every once in a while, I'm struck by how I've gradually gone over the last few years from "oh, this is what this weapon was actually like in real life" to "video about medieval clothing! Must watch!"
Priorities change...
@@ZacharyEvans Somewhere along the line, I learned medieval fighting was inextricable from the wider social context of that world, and now I cannot go back. The rabbit hole beckons me ever deeper.
Just yesterday I was talking about how aesthetics were so important in warfare and how they weren't allowed to just work well, they had to look good doing it.
@@ZacharyEvans in a world where social connections are everything, looking good has real, tangible benefits.
Huh, hoses attached to the doublet. Since I don't reenact (and don't really researched) that period, I wasn't aware of that. That's a neat way to avoid a plumber's crack xD
We need to go back to carrying belts on the natural waist and pants should go up. (and since we're at it, cloaks and capes dhould be brought back into fashion)
How the fuck could he fit his boxers into his tights without it bunching it up? 🎭🩰🎨
Nice kit. That brocaded silk coat is spot on even with your mismanaged gatherings.
I have some 14th century kit and i have to say my woolen cortardie and it is just super comfortable.
I definitely find wool nicer to wear than silk. Usually I prefer to be too warm than too cold, and I don't carry any "in-built insulation".
@@ZacharyEvans i don't carry any built in insulation either, but mine more a case of using ever bit of cool weather as an excuse to get to wear my woolens 😆
Nice outfit! I need to get my civilian soft kit together.
It's an ongoing project
Love the hose and doublet , just like Romeo and Juliet .
I love ❤️ this. I mean who couldn't love this? ❤ I just love fashion from this time period.
I have waited soooo long for this !!!! Thank you so very very much, kind sir❤❤❤❤
How the fuck could he fit his boxers into his tights without it bunching it up? 🎭🩰🎨
Fascinating stuff!!!
How the fuck could he fit his boxers into his tights without it bunching it up? 🎭🩰🎨
It looks great! I hope to be able to make something similar for the next festival 🏰
How the fuck could he fit his boxers into his tights without it bunching it up? 🎭🩰🎨
Make a video about hair in the 15th century.
I did once float the idea of me getting a historical haircut. My wife didn't approve.
@@ZacharyEvans Try her again - seeing you wearing this fantastic outfit she surely will see reason!
More please, like to see more of what working class would wear.
Thanks
Very well done, I would love to see you go into a little more detail with this and referencing some sources. In the late 15th century styles developed quickly and distinctly depending on location, so more in-depth information about the particular choices you made for your own soft kit would be very interesting. Y'know, not a complete fashion guide over the whole century, of course, but something along the lies of "my persona is supposed to be ..." "so I saw a robe like that in ..." " I was doing this and not that because ...". And where you bought your fabrics (I myself am looking for a source for silk brocades atm, with patterns fashionable 1490-1510 in the HRE. Or, more specifically, if possible to nail down, Innsbruck. I'm tailoring my own kit atm).
I can certainly go deeper, but I find that harder in retrospect, as some of these items are 10 years old! I will go into some more detail and look at other kit that I have, although I will need to find help for videos about female clothing.
I am planning a new series detailing the construction of an impression from start to finish. Hopefully that will be interesting.
I made a 1480 set of clothes, that pretty much match yours. Couldn't figure out the pleats on the bottom of the coat, so just made a larger flare
It may not be authentic but for ease of wearing and since I don't have a servant to dress me, I have sewn the pleats of my short houpelande in place, to a strip of fabric on the inside.
Completely authentic. There are images of gowns with pleats in and no belts.
I have heard that in Italy young courtiers would wear just their doublets with no cote (presumably to show off their figure).
Yes, I think that may be because of the hotter weather too.
I just made some 14th century arming style turn shoes, and I'd love to see this video on shoes and boots you're planning! also I did have just one question, for the hose, what type of wool fabric would have been used? for example where they usually twill, woven or knit and such? thank you!! I'm loving your videos so far
Thanks so much.
There's a lot of debate about that in the community. I have seen all used, but the important thing is that you need some hefty stretch.
Thanks for sharing!
Just had a question pop into mind; is what you wear under a jousting harness generally the same as what one would wear under armor intended for use on foot?
I don't know what's historically accurate name for that hat, but in my mind it's Black Adder's hat =)
Could you please do one on types of hats men wore?
Hats and boots are definitely on the list
zac, i have an upcoming video to do, what would be tthe garb, fot 14th-15th c, peasnant, poacher, hunter. i cant picture a doublet and thights beeing the norm, dress to long. would it have been more tunic and troos?
Hose and doublet are correct for all social status, but differed materials and styles are worn by people lower down in social status. There is a good example of lower status English 15th century clothing in the pickering church murals.
Would you be able to discuss where you might look for clothing like this, any recommended shops? Thanks
It's very difficult to do that, because I have limited experience in different places, and it will also be location dependant. I will see what I can do thought
By dagger, you don't mean Rondel, right? The dagger is supposed to fulfill regular knife functions, too?
All sorts of different types of dagger are worn, and not all Rondels are for armoured fighting.
Think about all of the many "combat" or "tactical" items on the market that are clearly civilian with a military flavour.
I like your 15th century hat , what the name of the hat? and were did you get it ?
I couldn't say its name: I just went to Crafty Beggars and showed them a picture of what I wanted
Hello Zac. I have a question on a related topic.
When wearing an arming doublet are the hose pointed to it in the same manner as the civilian doublet as well as the plate leg armour components?
I watched your video with Matt Easton about both your plate harnesses. Unfortunately neither of you wore your hose. Both your doublets did appear to have the extra holes to allow the pointing of the hose too?
In early periods the hose were pointed to the braies girdle or waist draw cord of the under garment.
I assume this was the other option still available when wearing an arming doublet?
Any info would be helpful as when wearing full harness these details are hidden.
I believe so, because no other option is mentioned in the sources that I have read.
@@ZacharyEvans Thanks for the reply.
Now I have a chicken or the egg question 😉
Arming doublet. A correct period term or a Victorian invention?
I see 'pourpoint' in lots of written sources, especially the earlier ones.
So were arming garments always Pourpoints and civilian garments always doublets?
Or is 'doublet' introduced later via the fashionable Spanish 'guibetta' and used in retrograde?
So when did the term 'doublet' first come into use in written sources and replace 'pourpoint' when referring to the arming garments?
Just me thinking aloud :)
In my opinion historically they are describing the same garment in the same way that "jumper" "sweater" and "hoodie" could all be used to describe the same item.
@@ZacharyEvans Agreed. Probably related to the location of the writer and the usual slow drift of meaning and language over time. Thanks again.
I believe that the etymology is different as well: pourpoint (for pointing) and doublet (lined garment).
So you could technically have a "doublet pourpoint" in the same way you could have a "hooded sweatshirt".
Language pre-enlightenment is much more fluid and unstructured.
I know this video is a bit older, but do you make your own clothing or have a shop that you recommend?? I’d love to find someone that can make me a doublet!
Rob Taylour, The Sempster and AD1410 tailor are all doing great work at the moment if you're looking for something custom
With those layers, how did nobles beat the heat? I've seen that lower-class have there hose hang low and forego layers for labour. Also, for budget armoured HEMA, I know getting a proper doublet for armour is vital, but how does wearing the linen shirt and braies under doublet and hose compare to a modern t-shirt and undies? Also, long-johns for hose (again budget HEMA, not full reenactment)?
I find that it effects how you move: the good posture and stretched legs are essential when wearing late 15th century gear. Kneeling is much easier than squatting, and changing your habits takes some getting used to. I sometimes wear compression clothing underneath instead of linen, but not for comfort reasons: usually just for ease of cleaning. If you want a modern alternative to hose under armour I use jodhpurs rather than long johns, as they are more robust.
I think people were just more willing to put up with the heat than we are today. I mean look at the British soldiers in India or Africa in the 19th Century wearing those thick red woolen jackets all the time. Also look up pictures of London at this time and every man is in a full three piece woolen suit, even the street urchins. Considering that they didn't have our nice modern scented detergents I can only imagine how bad these clothes must have smelt with all the sweat built up in them. And it's worth mentioning that the medieval era was during a warm period, hotter than it is today. We're just too soft with our air conditioning and the like.
@@EvidensInsania the late 15th century was in what in called a mini-ice-age, where it was on average colder than today. I completely agree about how conditioning has something to do with it. My conditioning changes begins to change over the course of a weekend, and I get more used to it.
The shirt is important in reducing the smell: linen smells less and is easily washable, which is why it is a separate layer next to the body.
Excellent content.
Not to be selfish, but if you have any insights into the clothing worn by both sides in the Granada War in Spain in the 1480s, that would be of inestimable benefit to my novel!
Yeesh! Such demanding commenters! Well, anyway, well done, and thanks for sharing your insights!
To be honest I have zero knowledge in this area. How much research have you done on it?
I have some books with some basic illustrations, but mostly from 'popular' literature. Always interested in multiple sources, of course. One confusing point is that one source I came across seemed to indicate that early in their history, the Granadans' mode of dress resembled that of the Castilians, whereas later it seemed to diverge into more Arabic fashions.
My girlfriend is trying to make me a tight pants and our problem is the bottom part. If I want to move my upper leg up in a 90 degree angle, I do need a lot of fabric at my bottom that can not be tightened. Is that the case for you to?
And a wonderful Reenactment display you have 👍
It is to an extent: it's very difficult to get it very tight. I am told that the way the cloth is cut can help, but my skills at sewing resides firmly in the leatherworking area.
Good content, but the audio on the open is rubbish. It is too low. When you cut to the content it gets better.
Thanks. I've got some new mics now. They require some playing with but should give more consistency.
is that necromunda I see?
It is
I see you are a man of culture as well@@ZacharyEvans🍷🗿
Can you please compose a presentation, explaining in detail the design cut and fabrication, for your under arming garments, for your new English fifteenth century foot battlefield armour. As well as who produced it for you and where do they operate from. Afterall as we all probably know, this is the most important fundamental foundation, and staring point, for the execution, of a well designed and fabricated, suite of full plate harness.
Will do.
@@ZacharyEvans Hi Zac, I would also love to know what sort of textiles it is made from, including your arming shoes. Thank you very much 👍
How the fuck could he fit his boxers into his tights without it bunching it up? 🎭🩰🎨