Cement mix of any brand. It doesn't matter. Cement mix contains Portland Cement, sand and aggregate together in dry form in 60lb or 80 lb bags. Slowly mix water into the dry mix until you get a consistence you can work with.
I’m subscribed now. I’m very sorry that you lost so much from the salt water. Thoroughly disgusted I’m sure. Totally empathize . This video has motivated me to do my pathway from driveway to. You really did an amazing job. I detest those pavers from the big box stores. No character and totally over priced if you ask me. I think if I do a few stones a day it’s manageable even for me. I really like the idea of the flashing forms. Bend mold form however you want…. Great idea. I have a couple of questions if I may. Sooooo…… you cut into 4 inch thickness. 1. How long though? 2. On same note why 4 inches thick if you need but a couple of inches? 3. If I wanted to stamp the top of stones to mimic slate or whatever is there a way to do that with form still in place? 4. Again about stamping… would you still do the colorant the same way? 5. Do you think it’s necessary to dig out and put the sand underneath? 6. I understood about trying to make a bit drier when trying to meet the patio but typically do you mix it a bit wetter? 7. For reference can you give me the size - length and width of the three stones. Obviously not exactly but just an idea please. I can’t lift an 80 lbs bag so it will be the 50 kinda need to have an idea what to have on hand and mixed because I’ll have no help nor a mixer to speed things along.I like the idea of not having to add wire for strength. Most others on UA-cam say you have to. I’m thinking I why? Surely a 2 inch slab would be strong enough to hold me and my Pomeranian hehehe. So anyway. Thank you in advance if you have the opportunity to answer my questions.
Thanks for your sympathy -- just getting started replanting all my stuff. 1. I think that I bought 10' long x 4" wide flashing. Think that if you want to make a "stone" 1 foot wide (in diameter), your form must be about 3.14' long (thats Circumference = Pi x Diameter) where Pi = 3.1416 That's always the ratio so I randomly chopped the 10' into three sections - one a little bigger than 3' and on a little smaller than 3' so I could make various sizes. You can use paper clasps (like for thick files) though I originally ran a screw through then ends to hold together. 2. Your stones do NOT have to be 4" thick though I would recommend at least two inches minimum. Concrete is very strong in compression but not so in tension so..... if the "stone" is not supported well underneath, it will eventually break. (That is why some people put metal lathe or wire inside because that provides the strength in tension that the cement does not possess. 3. After you 'pour" your fresh stone and the cement is wet, you can wait an hour or so (experiment a little) and as it sets you can texture the surface. There are molds made of silicone from real stones that are sold but they are quite expensive -- about $50 for a square foot (12x12). As an alterative, you can achieve some level of success by taking a plastic grocery bag, balling it up in your hand and artistically dabbing the surface with the exposed side hanging out of the bottom. You can also use the bottom of a broom and a combo of things. It just takes a little patients and imagination. 4. You can sprinkle (if powder) or pour (if liquid) on top or in the top layer of the cement or in the batch of raw cement (though, personally, I think coloring through is a waste of money. Only the top surface 1/8" at most is what you'll ever see in the life of your "stone". You can color at any time the cement is wet before it turns to concrete. 5. You don't need to dig out. That is a choice of where in your landscape these stones will be relative to a tripping hazard, lawnmower obstacle course, etc. What IS IMPORTANT is that the stone be supported from underneath or they will break -- see #1 above. 6. In general, dryer cement is harder when it sets. In these simple projects, it hardly matters at all. Mix it to the extent you are comfortable in working with it. What you saw in that video is typically the consistence of how I mix it so it is workable but not soupy. 7. The biggest stone is about 22 x 14 and the middle stone was about 16 x 10. Done know what the little one was but it was similar to middle one. Cement mix generally comes in 80# bags and 60# bags. You can have a loader at the store help you get them into the car -- I recommend butting a large trash bag under it. When you get home, you can cut the bag and scoop out what you can handle at a time into a bucket Yes -- a 2" thick slab is surly enough to carry your weight plus your little dog! You are not likely to need any metal reinforcement inside unless they were quite large "stones". What would be important though, again, is the bedding underneath so that the stone wasn't supported on each end and not in the middle which would be a sure failure. Hope this help. Good luck with your project!
You've done beautifully. You just helped me solve a paving need I have in 2 locations at my house and it si affordable Thank you! 😊
Glad I could help!
Looks really good and so natural. Thanks for the video share. Question does it matter what kind of bagged cement ? Quickcreet ect? Thank you
Yes. Quickcrete or any brand of cement mix is fine.
Looks like you just need a small clamp to keep the forms in place. Saves time.
In the past, the ends of the flashing was secured by some screws. But, thanks for the suggestion!
Glad you liked the vid. Happy i could help you.
Cement mix of any brand. It doesn't matter. Cement mix contains Portland Cement, sand and aggregate together in dry form in 60lb or 80 lb bags. Slowly mix water into the dry mix until you get a consistence you can work with.
I’m subscribed now. I’m very sorry that you lost so much from the salt water. Thoroughly disgusted I’m sure. Totally empathize . This video has motivated me to do my pathway from driveway to. You really did an amazing job. I detest those pavers from the big box stores. No character and totally over priced if you ask me. I think if I do a few stones a day it’s manageable even for me. I really like the idea of the flashing forms. Bend mold form however you want…. Great idea. I have a couple of questions if I may. Sooooo…… you cut into 4 inch thickness. 1. How long though? 2. On same note why 4 inches thick if you need but a couple of inches? 3. If I wanted to stamp the top of stones to mimic slate or whatever is there a way to do that with form still in place? 4. Again about stamping… would you still do the colorant the same way? 5. Do you think it’s necessary to dig out and put the sand underneath? 6. I understood about trying to make a bit drier when trying to meet the patio but typically do you mix it a bit wetter? 7. For reference can you give me the size - length and width of the three stones. Obviously not exactly but just an idea please. I can’t lift an 80 lbs bag so it will be the 50 kinda need to have an idea what to have on hand and mixed because I’ll have no help nor a mixer to speed things along.I like the idea of not having to add wire for strength. Most others on UA-cam say you have to. I’m thinking I why? Surely a 2 inch slab would be strong enough to hold me and my Pomeranian hehehe.
So anyway. Thank you in advance if you have the opportunity to answer my questions.
Thanks for your sympathy -- just getting started replanting all my stuff.
1. I think that I bought 10' long x 4" wide flashing. Think that if you want to make a "stone" 1 foot wide (in diameter), your form must be about 3.14' long (thats Circumference = Pi x Diameter) where Pi = 3.1416 That's always the ratio so I randomly chopped the 10' into three sections - one a little bigger than 3' and on a little smaller than 3' so I could make various sizes. You can use paper clasps (like for thick files) though I originally ran a screw through then ends to hold together.
2. Your stones do NOT have to be 4" thick though I would recommend at least two inches minimum. Concrete is very strong in compression but not so in tension so..... if the "stone" is not supported well underneath, it will eventually break. (That is why some people put metal lathe or wire inside because that provides the strength in tension that the cement does not possess.
3. After you 'pour" your fresh stone and the cement is wet, you can wait an hour or so (experiment a little) and as it sets you can texture the surface. There are molds made of silicone from real stones that are sold but they are quite expensive -- about $50 for a square foot (12x12). As an alterative, you can achieve some level of success by taking a plastic grocery bag, balling it up in your hand and artistically dabbing the surface with the exposed side hanging out of the bottom. You can also use the bottom of a broom and a combo of things. It just takes a little patients and imagination.
4. You can sprinkle (if powder) or pour (if liquid) on top or in the top layer of the cement or in the batch of raw cement (though, personally, I think coloring through is a waste of money. Only the top surface 1/8" at most is what you'll ever see in the life of your "stone". You can color at any time the cement is wet before it turns to concrete.
5. You don't need to dig out. That is a choice of where in your landscape these stones will be relative to a tripping hazard, lawnmower obstacle course, etc. What IS IMPORTANT is that the stone be supported from underneath or they will break -- see #1 above.
6. In general, dryer cement is harder when it sets. In these simple projects, it hardly matters at all. Mix it to the extent you are comfortable in working with it. What you saw in that video is typically the consistence of how I mix it so it is workable but not soupy.
7. The biggest stone is about 22 x 14 and the middle stone was about 16 x 10. Done know what the little one was but it was similar to middle one.
Cement mix generally comes in 80# bags and 60# bags. You can have a loader at the store help you get them into the car -- I recommend butting a large trash bag under it. When you get home, you can cut the bag and scoop out what you can handle at a time into a bucket
Yes -- a 2" thick slab is surly enough to carry your weight plus your little dog! You are not likely to need any metal reinforcement inside unless they were quite large "stones". What would be important though, again, is the bedding underneath so that the stone wasn't supported on each end and not in the middle which would be a sure failure.
Hope this help. Good luck with your project!
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