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Bro there are alot of haters in the world! I appreciate you taking the time to do this the RIGHT way! It's easy to sit back an critique someone else work. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!!
As far as I’m concerned, it’s not even worth bringing up the “haters”. If that’s the first thing that pops into mind, they’re influencing you unnecessarily. Don’t even let your mind go there. It does no one any good. Pay them no mind at all. Ignore. They don’t exist.
I’m a civil engineer in Illinois and we design a private entrance driveway at 6” not 3”, probably why it cracked because it’s thin and at a weak radial corner. I would saw cut it out, preferably squared. I usually make the contractor take the concrete out to the nearest joint, but for a house project that should be ok. We drill the rebar about 9” deep and blow it out and put epoxy and let it cure before placing the concrete. I would’ve also put epoxy coated rebar in case it cracks the steel won’t corrode. Concrete is weak in tension but strong in compression. Good on cleaning/brushing the old concrete. Good on putting the aggregate subbase. CA-6 would be preferred and compacting it with a plate compactor or hand tamper. Good on wetting the aggregate to SSD condition. If you don’t wet the aggregate, the dry aggregate would suck the water from the concrete, thus lowering the water to cement ratio, thus decreasing overall compressive strength of the mix. A 14day 3500 PSI is what we require for driveways in Illinois. But for a private driveway anything above 3200 should be ok. As a rule of thumb, you don’t want more than a 0.5 water to cement ratio. I like that you measure out the water. I would have used a concrete bag from the approved list from the IDOT website as it has been pre approved by the State and it has been thoroughly tested. I would also placed a preformed joint filler for expansion between the two different concrete slabs. You are correct about the curing and shrinkage cracks. I would place a white piece of polyethylene sheeting or curing compound for the duration of the curing, which should be 3 days. Overall great job.
Typical Engineer stupidity. This is a driveway repair, not a commercial construction site. No residential construction uses 6 '' slabs. It's just for small vehicles, not semi's. You are right that it broke because of the shape, but squaring it off will just make another weak point for it to crack in another direction. What's the purpose of drilling 9 '' holes, applying epoxy, and using epoxy coated rebar??? It's not going anywhere and by the time the rebar rusts, it's time to replace the whole driveway. You failed to mentioned he should have drilled into the other slab to tie the 2 together. You failed to mentioned he should wash all the surfaces, and use an adhesive before pouring new concrete, instead of just brushing. WTF are you mumbling about for the approved type of concrete, tested by the State ? Any premixed concrete sold at a hardware store is usually 4000 psi and is recommended for a residential driveway. You failed to mention that it should be vibrated to fill the voids. Using a joint filler for expansion is pointless for a piece that size. Stick to your desk and stop trying to make people think you are smart by saying stupid things and using technical specs that don't matter.
@@davidmedina5050 Thank you. That was a well thought out explanation. OT, how intellectually curious are you? I have a neighbor who has a problem with a dry stacked stone wall. It’s a serious problem now, and it will not get better for a long time without a serious intervention. He thinks a complete tear down and rebuild is necessary. I’m not completely sure that is right, and I think it can be done simpler and with a lot less effort and expense. I don’t want to take responsibility for anything that may go wrong. I’m just a neighbor with a curious mind and the heart of an inventor. If you are curious, please reach out and let’s see if we can help my neighbor. Thanks! OT, close to seventy years ago, I knew some people named Medina in Corpus Christi, Texas. Papa Medina was a barber if I remember correctly. Amy relation?
Know a person who built a 2-story house when pouring footer on a cold December morning he began laying block the next day and I told him you can't do that because of uncured or green concrete and it would cause a foundation collapse , he wouldn't listen and continued to stack block on fragile footer after about 6 months the whole backside of the house collapsed!
Finally, someone who knows what they are talking about. What a breath of fresh air. Simple DIY fix for those who can't afford to pay someone to repair the concrete. Thank you for sharing your information.
Damn a lot of professionals under these videos lmao. Please keep these coming for us who Don’t give a damn and just want to fix it ourselves. Tired of paying thousands for people to come and f it up for me, let me do that myself. Don’t let these comments stop the work. Some of us need this.
Good job pinning the patch! The only other thing i might have done is use a diamond blade either in your grinder or circular saw and make that jagged edge into a straight line. A little extra work but worth it for aesthetics in my opinion .
Agreed, when I saw it lift, I was like: Nice! A solid piece! Then the top broke when it was flipped and I realized it was going to be a repour. I was hoping for repack and seal.
Replaced a 4x4 walkway section for client and told them no foot traffic for 24 hours so they would maybe wait 12 hours. They called me 4 hours latter furious that the faulty concrete had 4 long gouges in it. They assured me nobody stepped on the slab when they rolled an upright baby grand piano over it. There stupidity left me speechless.
@@DelRounds If they were apologetic and owned there mistake I most likely would have resurfaced it for free. Since they were a complete ass over there mistake, I gave them another copy of the original estimate to redo the work again and an estimate for resurfacing.
I recommend that you wear protective knee pads on your knees. I worked like this and my knees hurt so much. I definitely don't work without knee pads anymore. It was a very useful video, thank you.
The concrete on the left side is 4 inches thick. It would have taken a lot of force to bust that up with 3 swings of a sledge hammer - unless you are Thor, that is. 😊
Whenever I have a project like yours, I always tap, tap, tap on the 2X4 form with a rubber mallet or hammer. It removes any air pockets; prevents weak spots/honey combing near the edge and improves appearance (if an issue).
I do have some suggestions first dog hair aka fiberglass reinforcement strands help a thin slab out even somw flexibility. You can buy it for 10 to 20 a bag on azon. Something we do for bases that are not prepared well is put down a bag or two of vinyl patch repair for concrete/blacktop it gives a solid base for a thin slab to sit on. I appreciate the content and keep it coming 👍
Fibermesh does not add tensile strength so you’ll still need the same thickness as without the fiber. The only purpose of fiber is to help control shrinkage cracking during initial cure
@@Mars-zgblbl eh... the way I've understood it after doing a fair bit of reading, is that rebar and fiber both have their specific properties to add durability and help prevent cracks. Rebar (if done right) is going to add large amounts tensile strength and help support a lot of weight, so that "big cracks" don't happen under heavy loads. Here's the thing though, all "big cracks" start as "small cracks", and fiber helps prevent those "small cracks" and chips. Effectively, if the small cracks can't start, it's adding some tensile strength, or at least helps maintain the given tensile strength as years (and freeze-thaw cycles) go on.
@@Tehkidd21 To nitpick wording, concrete is inherently full of cracks and neither fibermesh nor rebar will “prevent” cracking, but both can help reduce the widths of the cracks. So a potential advantage of fiber is to distribute the inevitable cracks perhaps more uniformly through the volume, and therefore have some expectation that the dimensions after stripping forms will be about the same as when formed up.
Nice video. A couple of things though. It would have been better to epoxy the rebar into the other slab. This method weakened it where the glue would have filled the void keeping it strong. Also the rebar now has an air gap where it will rust and expand. Over time that will break the slab. Concrete/epoxy needs to be directly on the rebar to keep it from rusting. The other thing is the original finish was a washed finish. When it was pretty firmly set, you take a hose and run water over it to wash the cemet off the surface. How aggressive you go, depends on how set it is. Start with a slow trickle and watch how the surface sand gets exposed. If it is firmer and not coming off, turn up the pressure and spray it. If the cement powder makes light colored marks (places where it resettles) the next day, pressure wash the light color off. Adding a bit of sand and cement powder reduces the strength slightly, but makes finishing these bag mixes so much easier. If you are doing a larger slab, pouring the bottom two or three inches as unmodified mix, and then the top bit with more and makes things much easier while not compromising strength significantly. This all in the same pour. It takes a while to mix all the bags so the bottom section usually sets up a bit by the time you get to the top layer, but that is OK as long as they aren't more than 30min or so apart.
For calculating the area of a triangle, no need to split it into two right triangles, just base times height divided by two ( [18+17] * 27 / 2 = 472.5 sq in ) and convert to square feet by dividing by 144 ( 472.5 sq in * [ 1 ft / 12 in ] * [ 1 ft / 12 in ] = 3.28 sq ft ).
You just have to calculate the area of the triangle as Base X 1/2 Height. Example: 35 X 13.5 = 472.5 square inches. Then 472.5 divided by 144 = 3.28 Square Feet. Doctor Whitehead
Thank you. I had this problem with a sidewalk. I lifted up the comcrete and placed a mixture of dirt and pea gravel underneath it. It worked fine. I might try your method on another area needing repair.
3:58 Tiny time saver: The height of any triangle is 1/2 * base * height, not just right triangles. Instead of breaking it up into two right triangles, you can calculate just once as 1/2 * 27 * 35 as long as the bases are co-linear.
@@natsterjam Also, at the beginning of the video he says he's going to show that an hour after pouring you can drive a truck over the product he's using and then never does it in the video.
I don't reply much to videos. But I would NEVER brake up concrete on top of good concrete. Put it on the grass. You could've had a lot more to fix than just the small piece. I know you must mean well here but????
concrete color will never match unless you use pigment! Even if you pour a driveway on two separate days the color will change due from different batches of sand. I was a cement finisher for 25 yrs !
While I get your point that you want it to match as much as possible, I found that new concrete will darken significantly over a year or two when it accumulates grime and dirt. I had this happen with a retaining wall I had to add some height on (cement blocks). Looked horrible right away, a year or two later, blends pretty damn close.
Before screeding, you need to vibrate the concrete to work all the air out and so it fills every nook and cranny. For small pours, you can just move a 2x4 up and down in the concrete. You will see the level drop as you work it, showing it is filling voids. That also helps work the gravel down so just sand and cement at the top for an easier finish. Also run a thin board around the form, working it up and down to push gravel away and fill the sides with smooth sand and cement. I would have first pounded the gravel down tight, using a sledgehammer, with water wetting the soil so it compacts tighter, then placed plastic sheet atop to separate it from the concrete so it doesn't suck the water out.
good job. you can stabilize clay by thoroughly mixing top few inches with hydrated lime. that's what they do for roads etc. rod ties should have been set in suitable high bond adhesive. pedantic, i know, but that's where rust will start otherwise.
Fun fact: Concrete does not stop curing after 28 days. The 28 days is an arbitrary period that allows you to easily plan trades during construction: 28 days is always less than a month. Concrete will still cure after this period, the process just becomes slower and slower. After 3 years, the load-bearing capacity of most types of concrete has almost doubled compared to 28 days, further hardening after about 3 years can be neglected, as the process is getting really slow, but curing basically never stops. Also concrete needs water to cure. So as mentioned: if it's hot, you need to rinse or spray the concrete daily the first week or so. This is actually more important than most people think. You may also cover the concrete with a wet blanket or the like.
And the same is true when using plaster or plaster of Paris on walls built in 1860 because if you put too thick of a layer, you have to come back at it within a half a day or so and spray it with water. Because the backside of it does not cure as good as the front side facing you. You always have to apply more water
Good job, but I would clean cut that jagged edge with a concrete cutoff saw and then use that as a new joint with the joint pad in between like they use between curb ends. Only other thing is you can add a chalky colored powder to make it look like older concrete to match better. Mix it in the concrete until it looks right. Otherwise it will dry very light colored.
The math is "The host says he's going to drive on it in an hour, and later says it will be at least three days. How many minutes until he can drive on it?"
The real easy math is that there are 2 right triangles virtually identical. If you can visualize flipping one over on the other, it makes a rectangle. Use the long side of the right angle and the longer of the 2 short sides of the right angle. Multiply for area, then multiply the depth for volume.
Thank you Scott! I have a repair to do on my driveway, and this will give me the confidence! Even if it doesn't come out perfect, it will be better than it looks now.
The best bonding agent is portland cement. You can just mix a paste of cement and water and paint it onto the concrete to be bonded. Also, I would have prodded the concrete at the bond, in order to remove trapped air and form a more consistent bond.
I would have cut it he broken edge to make it a clean edge, and then poured that as its own triangle so it’s not a weak point sticking out, but its own strong slab with a good base under it.
I would compact the base first, using a hand compactor or a 4x4. Then add 5/8 minus compactable gravel and compact that. Your concrete mix was a little wet. Drier would be stronger. Use rod to work the concrete into the voids. Finally I would use an old hacksaw to cut the joint all the way down on the curved side.
Lack of working the concrete to eliminate the voids is for sure a problem. A nice straight line where the previous break was with a joint would help with the crack that is sure to occur at some point in the future. Mix was wet as you noted. Hard to beat having a good solid base when pouring concrete.
@@ryanb6658 You use sand under pavers, not under poured concrete. They don't use sand under concrete highways. If I'm doing pavers I compact the ground first, then put in at least 2 inches of compactable gravel and compact and level that. Then 1 inch of sand.
@@Doug-gp2qw I’ve been building houses for 25 yrs in northern Michigan and have never seen gravel under poured concrete up here, im sure it because of frost and the ground freezing, all of our foundations are on sand and garage slabs , pole barns etc, but I’m sure it’s different in different places
@@ryanb6658 I'm just a DIYer with lots of experience in Upstate NY, NC, and WA. I've put in foundations, retaining walls, driveways, sidewalks, and patios. The only thing that has ever cracked is the first garage floor that I put in. I did not compact the base first or use gravel under it. I do over build. But I have foundations, patios, sidewalks, and driveways that are over 15 years old with zero cracks. If I'm installing a driveway I dig down, compact the base, put in at least 4 inches of gravel, compacting every 2 inches. I use 2x6 for forms, for a slab at least 5.5 inches thick. With 4000 psi concrete or greater. When cured a loaded dump truck can drive over it without fear of cracking. Most installers of residential driveways that I see around do very little prep. They pour directly on uncompacted earth with 2x4 forms. It looks nice when they are done. But in few years or months you will start see cracks, or the first time a truck drives over it.
Maybe I wasn't paying attention good enough but in the beginning you said you would pour the concrete and drive on it in an hour after pouring. At the end you said days
He did say we should be able to drive over this in about an hour and we will actually do this and put it to the test. Then later a couple of days and then never did get to see it or the finished product with the form removed. Maybe the test failed and he had to redo it. Overall I did learn something from it and appreciate the video. Also learnt that I have not used that kind of math in a long time. Dale in Canada.
If you used a masonry blade in your circular saw you could have made a nice straight cut on the old jagged part of the old concrete. However, you did a great job on the repair.
why not show the final result a few days later? how did the color match? is there a reason you didn't complete the point to line up with the existing slab?
I agree with other's in the remarks.. It should've been COMPACTED BEFORE you put the reinforcement rods in. Tapping it with small sledge JUST MEANS IT WASN'T PACKED RIGHT AGAIN. With a good chance it will happen AGAIN. The broken edge should've been cut straight for a better bond. I've done concrete step repair and required a much dryer mix. On another note. depending on your township it may need to be inspected before and after the pour.. Also the finished ROUGHNESS should be REQUIRED.
Most people make the concrete too wet. When poring the spillway of a government Bureau of Reclamation dam project we actually had to use a shovel to assist concrete down the chute angled at 45%, with a shovel.
May have already been mentioned, so apologies if it has. Small point of clarification: the concrete doesn’t take 28 days to reach its design strength (in this case 5,000 PSI), it has to have reached that strength when tested at 28 days. It can (and usually does) reach design strength earlier than that. It just can’t take longer than that.
I like to see photos and hear less talking. Picture is worth 1,000 words Confucius says. But, he did a good job. Really did not need to give so very many details as watching him do the job gave the roughed out information that a do-it-yourself-er would need to get the job done, IMO.
You could have used a concrete saw to eliminate the broken edge leaving a much better appearance and a seam for expansion/contraction. Your repair will deteriorate relatively soon along the broken edge.
Dowel the new pour into the existing 4" slab that was done properly, like the guys who added the faulty pad should have done. Also, DO NOT break/sledge the bad chunk on the nice concrete.
"Dowel the new pour into the existing 4" slab that was done properly, like the guys who added the faulty pad should have done." But they did not do that. Which means the entire joint between the slabs is not connected. Which means each slab can move independently. Which means if you do connect the two slabs together at that small area and the slabs move, it will immediately start causing more cracks and undo the work he did to replace the broken off piece. Doing it his way means each slab will still be able to move on its own without causing stress on the repair.
Wish you had tapped the wooden form with a hammer to vibrate some of the concrete next to the form to fill in any voids. Hopefully your mix was loose enough so it filled in by itself. Cheers.
really loved this video, great tips! but honestly, i feel like some of the cheaper methods might not hold up in the long run. it’d be interesting to see a comparison of durability between the budget fixes and the more expensive ones. just my two cents!
Sir, my apologies in advance: did I misunderstand you? I think that You contradicted yourself: at 0:27 you told us that you’ll be driving over it in about an hour after you laid the concrete patch. At 10:19 however, you said you can’t driver over it. Anyone else catch this?
You could have taken that piece out, flipping it out onto the grass and not the clean concrete, and then tamping and compacting the dirt under where that piece sat. Then putting small wooden spacers that you make in on top of the compacted soil and setting the broken concrete piece in that spot (and on top of the spacers), making adjustments until it seats level with the other surrounding concrete. The form the outside edge like you did, mix up some 5000psi flowable grout with no aggregate (that you bought at HD or Lowes) and pour it in until it just covers the spacers. Then gently place that concrete piece in the spot and make adjustments until it's level with the other concrete slabs (you'll have some working time to do so). Next, take a small funnel with a puddy knife and gently pour the grout into the cracks between the pieces and smooth out the surface also you can use a wet sponge to remove any spillage onto the concrete pieces around the cracks. Then let it cure over night. The end results will be as tho you only filled in a crack in the concrete, but the rest of it would look original and not noticable.
You may have heard this before: There’s 2 types of concrete. Cracked concrete and concrete that hasn’t cracked yet. lol I need to do some work on my driveway. Nice job.
So, what happened to driving over it within an hour to put it to the test...as stated within the first 30 seconds of the video? Was waiting to see that happen as I thought that would be quite a feat, indeed!
I believe the repair plan changed. I'd guess he was originally going to mortar it back together with a fast curing product, but then decided to re-do that section of the concrete instead (but not re-do that part of the audio-video stuff). Maybe he was able to pitch more products this way? Dunno.
Since you're in IL you should use a stiffer mix to give you better freeze-thaw resistance. Also, the presence of so much cream on the surface tells you that you used too much water.
If you wanted a movement along the curved edge, you should have simply attached a plastic sheet there (contractor's trash bag or something) along that surface, before pouring the concrete.
One thing you should have talked about, is the need to have the 90 angle edge out from the curved border, so you don't have a thin edge for the new pour
I would use the Quickrete that contains the fiberglass fibers rather than the 5000 psi. If you are going to wet it once a day, cover it with 3 mil plastic, or else it just dries out in a few minutes.
Pivoted to Quikrete 5,000 psi as opposed to Cement All from Rapid Set. I didn’t think Cement All would be right for most DIYers after getting more info on the super short working time.
I liked the way you did the reinforcement, but not sure how the join to the jagged edge is going to look or the colour match when it's all set and dry. Would be good if you could do a follow up and show us the finished result after a few months.
You should consider getting a military E-tool, It is very versatile and would make a huge difference when removing soil versus a garden trowel and your hands. Also, you can buy sand and gravel in bulk from a masonry supply yard. usually, they charge by the shovel full.
You should have cleaned your remaining edge with a diamond grinder so you can leave a clean looking expansion joint, the metal rods are totally unnecessary and won’t do anything to keep the concrete from breaking again, the new concrete is not going to bond to the old concrete the way you think it will, you should treat the repair as a totally separate concrete slab, good luck
Good idea. However, you should screed and vibrate the form with your hammer drill or reciprocating saw first, and then after it dries a little come back mag float. Sponge or broom finish after even more drying after mag float. Doing any mag floating first seals the surface and traps water in the concrete guaranteeing a future crack.
Would have just cracked again because the patch would not have bonded well enough for a vehicle passing through consistently Adding the rebar and a new slab of concrete would go a long way
I really like how thorough you are in explaining each step & why each are important. One little criticism…it is probably just your personality, but you talk kind of slowly. I can use the 2x speed to listen to your videos & not miss anything. Maybe I’m a fast listener?! 😅 But thanks, good job
Great video, for you home gamers NEVER EVER break/sledge the old concrete chunks on the existing concrete, that is wrong in so many ways! Also the mix should have been much dryer, it will never be 5000psi with that much water in the mix.
I have the same problem but I can't do the job. Was involved in bad construction accident yrs ago and my back has limited mobility. Hiring someone is just too expensive but thanks for the video
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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
@0:45: Busting up the old concrete on top of good concrete is a great way to widen the repair area.
My first thought too.
In my next video I'll show you how to repair a concrete driveway that's been hit with a sledgehammer.
@@bertharius9518 love it!
what you missed was him placing the large piece on the edge of a small piece so the sledge gave a bending motion and cracked the large piece easily.
unbelievable! I would have fired him on the spot, lol.
Bro there are alot of haters in the world! I appreciate you taking the time to do this the RIGHT way! It's easy to sit back an critique someone else work. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!!
The 1st couple comments were definitely lovers! I agree.....nice work done!
Lol the haters probably living at home in moms trailer park lol
The one comment from ncooty is MOST definitely a loser. Sit back an talk shit.
Glad u spoke up. Can't stand lovers like these people who sit back an do nothing except wack off.
As far as I’m concerned, it’s not even worth bringing up the “haters”. If that’s the first thing that pops into mind, they’re influencing you unnecessarily. Don’t even let your mind go there. It does no one any good. Pay them no mind at all. Ignore. They don’t exist.
I’m a civil engineer in Illinois and we design a private entrance driveway at 6” not 3”, probably why it cracked because it’s thin and at a weak radial corner. I would saw cut it out, preferably squared. I usually make the contractor take the concrete out to the nearest joint, but for a house project that should be ok. We drill the rebar about 9” deep and blow it out and put epoxy and let it cure before placing the concrete. I would’ve also put epoxy coated rebar in case it cracks the steel won’t corrode. Concrete is weak in tension but strong in compression. Good on cleaning/brushing the old concrete. Good on putting the aggregate subbase. CA-6 would be preferred and compacting it with a plate compactor or hand tamper. Good on wetting the aggregate to SSD condition. If you don’t wet the aggregate, the dry aggregate would suck the water from the concrete, thus lowering the water to cement ratio, thus decreasing overall compressive strength of the mix. A 14day 3500 PSI is what we require for driveways in Illinois. But for a private driveway anything above 3200 should be ok. As a rule of thumb, you don’t want more than a 0.5 water to cement ratio. I like that you measure out the water. I would have used a concrete bag from the approved list from the IDOT website as it has been pre approved by the State and it has been thoroughly tested. I would also placed a preformed joint filler for expansion between the two different concrete slabs. You are correct about the curing and shrinkage cracks. I would place a white piece of polyethylene sheeting or curing compound for the duration of the curing, which should be 3 days. Overall great job.
At this point I would just recommend redoing the whole driveway this way lol
Typical Engineer stupidity. This is a driveway repair, not a commercial construction site. No residential construction uses 6 '' slabs. It's just for small vehicles, not semi's. You are right that it broke because of the shape, but squaring it off will just make another weak point for it to crack in another direction. What's the purpose of drilling 9 '' holes, applying epoxy, and using epoxy coated rebar??? It's not going anywhere and by the time the rebar rusts, it's time to replace the whole driveway. You failed to mentioned he should have drilled into the other slab to tie the 2 together. You failed to mentioned he should wash all the surfaces, and use an adhesive before pouring new concrete, instead of just brushing. WTF are you mumbling about for the approved type of concrete, tested by the State ? Any premixed concrete sold at a hardware store is usually 4000 psi and is recommended for a residential driveway. You failed to mention that it should be vibrated to fill the voids. Using a joint filler for expansion is pointless for a piece that size. Stick to your desk and stop trying to make people think you are smart by saying stupid things and using technical specs that don't matter.
He’s not repairing bridge engineer guy.
@@davidmedina5050 Thank you. That was a well thought out explanation.
OT, how intellectually curious are you?
I have a neighbor who has a problem with a dry stacked stone wall. It’s a serious problem now, and it will not get better for a long time without a serious intervention.
He thinks a complete tear down and rebuild is necessary. I’m not completely sure that is right, and I think it can be done simpler and with a lot less effort and expense.
I don’t want to take responsibility for anything that may go wrong. I’m just a neighbor with a curious mind and the heart of an inventor.
If you are curious, please reach out and let’s see if we can help my neighbor.
Thanks!
OT, close to seventy years ago, I knew some people named Medina in Corpus Christi, Texas. Papa Medina was a barber if I remember correctly.
Amy relation?
What does SSD stand for?
I really appreciate your detailed and respectful instructional videos. When I land on your channel I think, "Yes! it's that guy again!"
Know a person who built a 2-story house when pouring footer on a cold December morning he began laying block the next day and I told him you can't do that because of uncured or green concrete and it would cause a foundation collapse , he wouldn't listen and continued to stack block on fragile footer after about 6 months the whole backside of the house collapsed!
Finally, someone who knows what they are talking about. What a breath of fresh air. Simple DIY fix for those who can't afford to pay someone to repair the concrete. Thank you for sharing your information.
Damn a lot of professionals under these videos lmao. Please keep these coming for us who
Don’t give a damn and just want to fix it ourselves. Tired of paying thousands for people to come and f it up for me, let me do that myself. Don’t let these comments stop the work. Some of us need this.
Well if you don’t give a damn then ignore the comments and redo your fn broken concrete every couple yrs or so. 🤦🏽♂️
@ I fn will but thanks for the green light
Good job pinning the patch! The only other thing i might have done is use a diamond blade either in your grinder or circular saw and make that jagged edge into a straight line. A little extra work but worth it for aesthetics in my opinion .
Good point! A bit more work and money and it would have looked nicer, though I guess he did not want to do that.
Your idea is better than the entire video.
Yes for a clean look that allows expansion
But a rough edge give a better adhesion with no surface crack
Almost posted the same thing - could have out expansion padding in -
He's an amateur.
Lift broken piece, compact and level off. Reset old concrete and fill joint with sealant. Done.
I thought the same thing.
May as well. It still looks like a broken piece that’s been lifted anyway.
Agreed, when I saw it lift, I was like: Nice! A solid piece! Then the top broke when it was flipped and I realized it was going to be a repour. I was hoping for repack and seal.
Same color match too.
You ruined it 😂
This was a good explanation, how to fix driveway... But the comments are what's entertaining. Thank you.
Replaced a 4x4 walkway section for client and told them no foot traffic for 24 hours so they would maybe wait 12 hours. They called me 4 hours latter furious that the faulty concrete had 4 long gouges in it. They assured me nobody stepped on the slab when they rolled an upright baby grand piano over it. There stupidity left me speechless.
Они могли толкать рояль досками или тащить его за верёвку😂😂😂😂
They're stupidity? JS 😊
Their
Out of curiosity, did you repair that for them free or did you solve the problem a different way?
@@DelRounds If they were apologetic and owned there mistake I most likely would have resurfaced it for free. Since they were a complete ass over there mistake, I gave them another copy of the original estimate to redo the work again and an estimate for resurfacing.
I recommend that you wear protective knee pads on your knees. I worked like this and my knees hurt so much. I definitely don't work without knee pads anymore. It was a very useful video, thank you.
I'd recommend moving the pieces to the grass before you go Donkey Kong smashing up the concrete piece. That way you don't break more of your concrete.
The concrete on the left side is 4 inches thick. It would have taken a lot of force to bust that up with 3 swings of a sledge hammer - unless you are Thor, that is. 😊
Exactly
Donkey Kong 😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂
@@shaneanderson183got me hollering 😂😂😂😂😂
Whenever I have a project like yours, I always tap, tap, tap on the 2X4 form with a rubber mallet or hammer. It removes any air pockets; prevents weak spots/honey combing near the edge and improves appearance (if an issue).
I do have some suggestions first dog hair aka fiberglass reinforcement strands help a thin slab out even somw flexibility. You can buy it for 10 to 20 a bag on azon. Something we do for bases that are not prepared well is put down a bag or two of vinyl patch repair for concrete/blacktop it gives a solid base for a thin slab to sit on.
I appreciate the content and keep it coming 👍
Thanks for the feedback 🙌
You can also buy readymix bags with it in there. the "crack resistant" stuff has fiber mesh in there.
Fibermesh does not add tensile strength so you’ll still need the same thickness as without the fiber. The only purpose of fiber is to help control shrinkage cracking during initial cure
@@Mars-zgblbl eh... the way I've understood it after doing a fair bit of reading, is that rebar and fiber both have their specific properties to add durability and help prevent cracks. Rebar (if done right) is going to add large amounts tensile strength and help support a lot of weight, so that "big cracks" don't happen under heavy loads. Here's the thing though, all "big cracks" start as "small cracks", and fiber helps prevent those "small cracks" and chips. Effectively, if the small cracks can't start, it's adding some tensile strength, or at least helps maintain the given tensile strength as years (and freeze-thaw cycles) go on.
@@Tehkidd21 To nitpick wording, concrete is inherently full of cracks and neither fibermesh nor rebar will “prevent” cracking, but both can help reduce the widths of the cracks. So a potential advantage of fiber is to distribute the inevitable cracks perhaps more uniformly through the volume, and therefore have some expectation that the dimensions after stripping forms will be about the same as when formed up.
Glad to hear adding aggregate is part of the fix - needs proper drainage without sinking.
Nice video. A couple of things though. It would have been better to epoxy the rebar into the other slab. This method weakened it where the glue would have filled the void keeping it strong. Also the rebar now has an air gap where it will rust and expand. Over time that will break the slab. Concrete/epoxy needs to be directly on the rebar to keep it from rusting.
The other thing is the original finish was a washed finish. When it was pretty firmly set, you take a hose and run water over it to wash the cemet off the surface. How aggressive you go, depends on how set it is. Start with a slow trickle and watch how the surface sand gets exposed. If it is firmer and not coming off, turn up the pressure and spray it. If the cement powder makes light colored marks (places where it resettles) the next day, pressure wash the light color off.
Adding a bit of sand and cement powder reduces the strength slightly, but makes finishing these bag mixes so much easier. If you are doing a larger slab, pouring the bottom two or three inches as unmodified mix, and then the top bit with more and makes things much easier while not compromising strength significantly. This all in the same pour. It takes a while to mix all the bags so the bottom section usually sets up a bit by the time you get to the top layer, but that is OK as long as they aren't more than 30min or so apart.
Definitely epoxy the rebar.
How about no rebar and move on..
@@1941392if repeat failure is the goal then definitely.
For calculating the area of a triangle, no need to split it into two right triangles, just base times height divided by two ( [18+17] * 27 / 2 = 472.5 sq in ) and convert to square feet by dividing by 144 ( 472.5 sq in * [ 1 ft / 12 in ] * [ 1 ft / 12 in ] = 3.28 sq ft ).
You just have to calculate the area of the triangle as Base X 1/2 Height. Example: 35 X 13.5 = 472.5 square inches. Then 472.5 divided by 144 = 3.28 Square Feet. Doctor Whitehead
You both just said the same thing.
I would have calculated a square 18 x 27 x thickness, then divide by 2
Concrete is a volume (cubical) measurement, not area !
@@mikemaj8467Why divide by 2 when you are going to then multiply by 4 for the pad thickness of 4 inches? Just multiply by 2 instead! :D
Thank you. I had this problem with a sidewalk. I lifted up the comcrete and placed a mixture of dirt and pea gravel underneath it. It worked fine. I might try your method on another area needing repair.
3:58 Tiny time saver: The height of any triangle is 1/2 * base * height, not just right triangles. Instead of breaking it up into two right triangles, you can calculate just once as 1/2 * 27 * 35 as long as the bases are co-linear.
Looks like it came out well. Would love to see the dry finished project.
me too, i would of like to see it dried & finished
I suspect it wasn't shown becasue it was a totally different color.
@@natsterjam Also, at the beginning of the video he says he's going to show that an hour after pouring you can drive a truck over the product he's using and then never does it in the video.
Me, too!
@@natsterjam Likely.
I don't reply much to videos. But I would NEVER brake up concrete on top of good concrete. Put it on the grass. You could've had a lot more to fix than just the small piece. I know you must mean well here but????
I cringed when he did that too!! 😬
I as well!!
Fair point
Not really lol
Those arms didn't look like they have too much power. So it's probably okay.
(LOL, JK. Great channel.)
Can you show a picture of what this looks like after it has been curing for 28 days? I want to see the color of the new concrete next to the old slab.
concrete color will never match unless you use pigment! Even if you pour a driveway on two separate days the color will change due from different batches of sand. I was a cement finisher for 25 yrs !
While I get your point that you want it to match as much as possible, I found that new concrete will darken significantly over a year or two when it accumulates grime and dirt. I had this happen with a retaining wall I had to add some height on (cement blocks). Looked horrible right away, a year or two later, blends pretty damn close.
Before screeding, you need to vibrate the concrete to work all the air out and so it fills every nook and cranny. For small pours, you can just move a 2x4 up and down in the concrete. You will see the level drop as you work it, showing it is filling voids. That also helps work the gravel down so just sand and cement at the top for an easier finish. Also run a thin board around the form, working it up and down to push gravel away and fill the sides with smooth sand and cement. I would have first pounded the gravel down tight, using a sledgehammer, with water wetting the soil so it compacts tighter, then placed plastic sheet atop to separate it from the concrete so it doesn't suck the water out.
good job. you can stabilize clay by thoroughly mixing top few inches with hydrated lime. that's what they do for roads etc. rod ties should have been set in suitable high bond adhesive. pedantic, i know, but that's where rust will start otherwise.
Fun fact: Concrete does not stop curing after 28 days. The 28 days is an arbitrary period that allows you to easily plan trades during construction: 28 days is always less than a month. Concrete will still cure after this period, the process just becomes slower and slower. After 3 years, the load-bearing capacity of most types of concrete has almost doubled compared to 28 days, further hardening after about 3 years can be neglected, as the process is getting really slow, but curing basically never stops.
Also concrete needs water to cure. So as mentioned: if it's hot, you need to rinse or spray the concrete daily the first week or so. This is actually more important than most people think. You may also cover the concrete with a wet blanket or the like.
And the same is true when using plaster or plaster of Paris on walls built in 1860 because if you put too thick of a layer, you have to come back at it within a half a day or so and spray it with water. Because the backside of it does not cure as good as the front side facing you. You always have to apply more water
Lift broken piece, compact subbase, resit the broken corner and fill joint with epoxy concrete repair compound.
Good job, but I would clean cut that jagged edge with a concrete cutoff saw and then use that as a new joint with the joint pad in between like they use between curb ends. Only other thing is you can add a chalky colored powder to make it look like older concrete to match better. Mix it in the concrete until it looks right. Otherwise it will dry very light colored.
All the math teachers thank you for giving us a real world example
The math is "The host says he's going to drive on it in an hour, and later says it will be at least three days. How many minutes until he can drive on it?"
@@craash420I caught that too
The real easy math is that there are 2 right triangles virtually identical. If you can visualize flipping one over on the other, it makes a rectangle. Use the long side of the right angle and the longer of the 2 short sides of the right angle. Multiply for area, then multiply the depth for volume.
@@jmpeak2384 No need to use right triangles. The area of a triangle is literally, height x width divided by two. (35 x 27) / 2 = 472 square inches.
@@craash420 LOL!
Actually it came out very well matched. I think 3” for driveway is a bit thin. Well done 👍
Thanks!
Thank you Scott! I have a repair to do on my driveway, and this will give me the confidence! Even if it doesn't come out perfect, it will be better than it looks now.
You got this!
The best bonding agent is portland cement. You can just mix a paste of cement and water and paint it onto the concrete to be bonded.
Also, I would have prodded the concrete at the bond, in order to remove trapped air and form a more consistent bond.
Philip, I would mix it much dryer than shown here. Too much water weakens the concrete and the same problem will come back quickly
@@CharlotteGlamourshould be drier
Man if you work that fast all the time, you are hired.❤
Besides being thin, the concrete probably broke because of the pointed triangle shape.
👍 No need to match the already marginally thin original… I’d go for 5-6" pad or better, a 4" with extra depth of well compacted gravel base.
At least should cut a break groove across the triangle as a continuation of the touching point groove.
I would have cut it he broken edge to make it a clean edge, and then poured that as its own triangle so it’s not a weak point sticking out, but its own strong slab with a good base under it.
huh?
Please add 1 more minute with the final results...
exactly....he didnt want to show what a shitty look it had after it had dried.
Good video Scott. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. These videos give people like me the confidence to improve our homes!
Thanks for the feedback, helping homeowners save time and money is what we are all about 🙌
I probably would have thickened up the outer edge to about 6-7” and drill a hole in the other slab to tie it all together. Great video.
I would compact the base first, using a hand compactor or a 4x4. Then add 5/8 minus compactable gravel and compact that. Your concrete mix was a little wet. Drier would be stronger. Use rod to work the concrete into the voids. Finally I would use an old hacksaw to cut the joint all the way down on the curved side.
Lack of working the concrete to eliminate the voids is for sure a problem. A nice straight line where the previous break was with a joint would help with the crack that is sure to occur at some point in the future. Mix was wet as you noted. Hard to beat having a good solid base when pouring concrete.
I’ve never seen stone put under concrete, it’s sand in Michigan where I build
@@ryanb6658 You use sand under pavers, not under poured concrete. They don't use sand under concrete highways. If I'm doing pavers I compact the ground first, then put in at least 2 inches of compactable gravel and compact and level that. Then 1 inch of sand.
@@Doug-gp2qw I’ve been building houses for 25 yrs in northern Michigan and have never seen gravel under poured concrete up here, im sure it because of frost and the ground freezing, all of our foundations are on sand and garage slabs , pole barns etc, but I’m sure it’s different in different places
@@ryanb6658 I'm just a DIYer with lots of experience in Upstate NY, NC, and WA. I've put in foundations, retaining walls, driveways, sidewalks, and patios. The only thing that has ever cracked is the first garage floor that I put in. I did not compact the base first or use gravel under it.
I do over build. But I have foundations, patios, sidewalks, and driveways that are over 15 years old with zero cracks. If I'm installing a driveway I dig down, compact the base, put in at least 4 inches of gravel, compacting every 2 inches. I use 2x6 for forms, for a slab at least 5.5 inches thick. With 4000 psi concrete or greater. When cured a loaded dump truck can drive over it without fear of cracking. Most installers of residential driveways that I see around do very little prep. They pour directly on uncompacted earth with 2x4 forms. It looks nice when they are done. But in few years or months you will start see cracks, or the first time a truck drives over it.
Thank you, my brother, I tried it and the result is really perfect. Thank you very much for the information you shared with us.
Maybe I wasn't paying attention good enough but in the beginning you said you would pour the concrete and drive on it in an hour after pouring. At the end you said days
He changed the concrete he was using.
@@Vanye111 oh ok, I must have missed that change
He did say we should be able to drive over this in about an hour and we will actually do this and put it to the test. Then later a couple of days and then never did get to see it or the finished product with the form removed. Maybe the test failed and he had to redo it. Overall I did learn something from it and appreciate the video. Also learnt that I have not used that kind of math in a long time.
Dale in Canada.
@@dalemcinnes1834at 5:56 he says that you can open it up to walking traffic in 8 hours but wouldn’t recommend driving for 2 days.
If you used a masonry blade in your circular saw you could have made a nice straight cut on the old jagged part of the old concrete. However, you did a great job on the repair.
why not show the final result a few days later? how did the color match? is there a reason you didn't complete the point to line up with the existing slab?
"Pointy" concrete breaks.
I agree with other's in the remarks.. It should've been COMPACTED BEFORE you put the reinforcement rods in. Tapping it with small sledge JUST MEANS IT WASN'T PACKED RIGHT AGAIN. With a good chance it will happen AGAIN. The broken edge should've been cut straight for a better bond. I've done concrete step repair and required a much dryer mix. On another note. depending on your township it may need to be inspected before and after the pour.. Also the finished ROUGHNESS should be REQUIRED.
i raise my standards higher & higher every time when i realize how handy & innovative some men can truly be when they want that for themself!
Most people make the concrete too wet. When poring the spillway of a government Bureau of Reclamation dam project we actually had to use a shovel to assist concrete down the chute angled at 45%, with a shovel.
Cut the cracked edge to make it look even cleaner
May have already been mentioned, so apologies if it has. Small point of clarification: the concrete doesn’t take 28 days to reach its design strength (in this case 5,000 PSI), it has to have reached that strength when tested at 28 days. It can (and usually does) reach design strength earlier than that. It just can’t take longer than that.
Thanks for the feedback!
Where's the "after"?
I like to see photos and hear less talking. Picture is worth 1,000 words Confucius says. But, he did a good job. Really did not need to give so very many details as watching him do the job gave the roughed out information that a do-it-yourself-er would need to get the job done, IMO.
Thought we were going to see full finished project? Id like to see what it looks like completely cured.
Man when that Ford F250 drove over the concrete patch in less than one hour it really blew my mind.
Never happened
You could have used a concrete saw to eliminate the broken edge leaving a much better appearance and a seam for expansion/contraction. Your repair will deteriorate relatively soon along the broken edge.
Dowel the new pour into the existing 4" slab that was done properly, like the guys who added the faulty pad should have done. Also, DO NOT break/sledge the bad chunk on the nice concrete.
"Dowel the new pour into the existing 4" slab that was done properly, like the guys who added the faulty pad should have done."
But they did not do that. Which means the entire joint between the slabs is not connected. Which means each slab can move independently. Which means if you do connect the two slabs together at that small area and the slabs move, it will immediately start causing more cracks and undo the work he did to replace the broken off piece.
Doing it his way means each slab will still be able to move on its own without causing stress on the repair.
no, he should not have doweled the new slab into the old one. That's a terrible idea. Creating an expansion joint is the proper method.
If you cover your new slab with burlap or old carpet and keep it wet for a few days it will cure much harder and would add more strength.
Great video Scott ty! I'm still afraid to start my repairs of large cracks 😂 talk about procrastinating. Got supplies though.
One step at a time 😉
Man I have two areas exactly like this on my driveway. Video is Much appreciated! Figure I can extend it awhile
Wish you had tapped the wooden form with a hammer to vibrate some of the concrete next to the form to fill in any voids. Hopefully your mix was loose enough so it filled in by itself. Cheers.
Great feedback, thanks!
A reciprocating saw without a blade against the form works very well for this.
really loved this video, great tips! but honestly, i feel like some of the cheaper methods might not hold up in the long run. it’d be interesting to see a comparison of durability between the budget fixes and the more expensive ones. just my two cents!
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Everytime I see someone shows us how to fix something but don't give us the the result of all his actions, there must be something off
could you repeat that in full English sentences, please?
@@davetrayford If you need perfect grammar to understand what he said, something is wrong with *you*. Unless you're just trying to be condescending.
Good job. I would suggest expansion joint filler between the original concrete and the newly placed concrete.
Did I miss the part where he would drive his truck over within an hour?
Right???? "I will be able to drive my truck on this after 1 hr which I plan to show you?" Where was that?????
No, you did not. You missed the part where he changed from a quick set mix to the mix he used
@@anthonyjennette1467right. People don’t even need to be literate watching a video BUT they do have to listen. LOL a little scary.
Sir, my apologies in advance: did I misunderstand you? I think that You contradicted yourself: at 0:27 you told us that you’ll be driving over it in about an hour after you laid the concrete patch. At 10:19 however, you said you can’t driver over it.
Anyone else catch this?
You didn’t drive your truck over it within an hour, and didn’t show the finished product on how it looked when dry 😕
He rarely, if ever, shows true results unfortunately.
Apparently you have hearing problems and an attention defecit. He said he could walk over it in 12 hours not drive over it.
I was wondering how I missed it.
You could have taken that piece out, flipping it out onto the grass and not the clean concrete, and then tamping and compacting the dirt under where that piece sat. Then putting small wooden spacers that you make in on top of the compacted soil and setting the broken concrete piece in that spot (and on top of the spacers), making adjustments until it seats level with the other surrounding concrete. The form the outside edge like you did, mix up some 5000psi flowable grout with no aggregate (that you bought at HD or Lowes) and pour it in until it just covers the spacers. Then gently place that concrete piece in the spot and make adjustments until it's level with the other concrete slabs (you'll have some working time to do so). Next, take a small funnel with a puddy knife and gently pour the grout into the cracks between the pieces and smooth out the surface also you can use a wet sponge to remove any spillage onto the concrete pieces around the cracks. Then let it cure over night. The end results will be as tho you only filled in a crack in the concrete, but the rest of it would look original and not noticable.
Well done, so far... Finishing treatment with wet sponge for smooth result... Next, broke old concrete on the green, not on the good...
You may have heard this before:
There’s 2 types of concrete. Cracked concrete and concrete that hasn’t cracked yet. lol
I need to do some work on my driveway. Nice job.
😂
Pastor, that was a beautiful sermon. Thank you so much! It reminds me to be a better person
So, what happened to driving over it within an hour to put it to the test...as stated within the first 30 seconds of the video? Was waiting to see that happen as I thought that would be quite a feat, indeed!
He’s an affiliate link shrill. This shit is so cringe. You see how he adds so much bullshit to everything and then hocks a tool
Jack of all trades - master of none. Want to know the worst way of attempted repairs? Your on the right channel
What happened to driving over it after 1 hr?😅😅
He lied to get people to watch the video all the way through. Given that the first video ive seen from this channel is clickbait, im not lovin it
I believe the repair plan changed. I'd guess he was originally going to mortar it back together with a fast curing product, but then decided to re-do that section of the concrete instead (but not re-do that part of the audio-video stuff). Maybe he was able to pitch more products this way? Dunno.
I just went back to the beginning bc I was like “Hey I thought he said an hour hahaha” I’m ok waiting tho
@@chubbydiaries1 I did the same, I thought I must have heard wrong.
The old bait and switch
A1 job.. especially using rods..
I woulda sumugged up the bonding surfaces first with some wet mix to really get a primed adhesion
Very detailed video and thank you 🙏🏼
Since you're in IL you should use a stiffer mix to give you better freeze-thaw resistance. Also, the presence of so much cream on the surface tells you that you used too much water.
Don't drive on it in 3 days wait for 7 days to reach 80 percent strength at 70 degrees F.
Thanks for the feedback!
Good video! Would have been good to see how you finished it off/achieved the rough finish.
Half the base times the height will give you the surface area of a triangle. Doesn't have to be a right triangle any
And since he made it into 2 triangles almost exactly the same size, it was a rectangle.
If you wanted a movement along the curved edge, you should have simply attached a plastic sheet there (contractor's trash bag or something) along that surface, before pouring the concrete.
nice job. ❤ looks like the guys that poured that extension were the low bid $ ! Do you guarantee your concrete work? Yes, it is guaranteed to crack! 😂
I wish you would have the "after" shot of the repair dry and with the boards removed. Thank you for sharing this .
Your 'loose' mix concrete reduced the strength of the mix from 5,000 back to 3,000. Too much water.
I learned something new today. Thanks for posting this. Blessings to you and yours...
will work for 6 months i bet!
One thing you should have talked about, is the need to have the 90 angle edge out from the curved border, so you don't have a thin edge for the new pour
I would use the Quickrete that contains the fiberglass fibers rather than the 5000 psi. If you are going to wet it once a day, cover it with 3 mil plastic, or else it just dries out in a few minutes.
weather dependent
That's quite beautiful lesson for me as a beginner! Thank you so much for the explanation.
Where's the part where you drive your truck over it as promised?
Pivoted to Quikrete 5,000 psi as opposed to Cement All from Rapid Set. I didn’t think Cement All would be right for most DIYers after getting more info on the super short working time.
I liked the way you did the reinforcement, but not sure how the join to the jagged edge is going to look or the colour match when it's all set and dry.
Would be good if you could do a follow up and show us the finished result after a few months.
Well I can tell you aren't a real concrete finisher because you didn't just dump the excess on your turf. 🤣
EXACTLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hahahahahaha that's hilarious!!
😂😂😂
And he wasn’t drinking beer lol 😂
I don't think he claims to be a so-called "real finisher". But I guess you think you are.🤔🤡
You should consider getting a military E-tool, It is very versatile and would make a huge difference when removing soil versus a garden trowel and your hands. Also, you can buy sand and gravel in bulk from a masonry supply yard. usually, they charge by the shovel full.
Great video, but I thought we were going to see the truck drive on the repaired area?
Lol yea in the beginning he said in 1 hour he would drive on it, then said 28 days for it to cure. Lol
He explained in the video that he changed his mind on the type of concrete to use.
You should have cleaned your remaining edge with a diamond grinder so you can leave a clean looking expansion joint, the metal rods are totally unnecessary and won’t do anything to keep the concrete from breaking again, the new concrete is not going to bond to the old concrete the way you think it will, you should treat the repair as a totally separate concrete slab, good luck
My driveway needs this times about 20...
🙂
Good idea. However, you should screed and vibrate the form with your hammer drill or reciprocating saw first, and then after it dries a little come back mag float. Sponge or broom finish after even more drying after mag float. Doing any mag floating first seals the surface and traps water in the concrete guaranteeing a future crack.
Great video and explanation!
Thank you!
Thank you very much for your professional demonstration on concrete repair! Amazing and great video!
COULD HAVE just removed the cement piece. Raise the bed under it and then put it back in place and patch the crack.
I thought about it but I am sure that would just crack again within 12 months.
Would have just cracked again because the patch would not have bonded well enough for a vehicle passing through consistently
Adding the rebar and a new slab of concrete would go a long way
@@EverydayHomeRepairs That'd be a safe bet.
Dang that turned out great! Nice job. Thanx for sharing.
Not a professional option.
I really like how thorough you are in explaining each step & why each are important. One little criticism…it is probably just your personality, but you talk kind of slowly. I can use the 2x speed to listen to your videos & not miss anything. Maybe I’m a fast listener?! 😅 But thanks, good job
compact stone BEFORE inserting rebar
Agreed 👍
Great video, for you home gamers NEVER EVER break/sledge the old concrete chunks on the existing concrete, that is wrong in so many ways! Also the mix should have been much dryer, it will never be 5000psi with that much water in the mix.
Should be able to drive my truck over it within an hour.... have to let it sit for a day before you can walk on it 😂
I have the same problem but I can't do the job. Was involved in bad construction accident yrs ago and my back has limited mobility. Hiring someone is just too expensive but thanks for the video