No, wireless has NOT won. Wireless is shared unless you are talking about going WiFi 6E, and I doubt you are going to spend the $$$. I run Gig ethernet on anything that is stationary, especially streaming devices, and save wireless for anything that does not have a wired NIC or moves around. Wireless has its place.
Appreciate the input, @kahilzinger! We've never had issues streaming over WiFi at our homes but could definitely understand certain use-cases benefiting from Ethernet there. Good one!
@Electric Pro Academy also, Power Over Ethernet is something to think about. I have 4 wireless access points throughout my home and garage. PoE means only 1 Cat-6 cable and since my switch is dual powered on dual UPSes, I have network for over an hour if the power goes out. I have a local media server (Plex). I rip my 4k movies onto it and am able to stream in 4k anywhere in my home including in my backyard on a projector when it is nice out with a fire going and my favorite adult beverage. Have structured cabling in your home where it makes sense. It didn't belong near that panel. I recommend a rack if you can with patch panels and female RJ-45 in wall plates or surface mount jacks...never field terminate male RJ-45. With age, the clips break off. Replacing a patch cord is much easier than reterminating the end...especially up a ladder. I make wiring contractors redo male RJ-45 terminated home runs. Really interested in Span...like more the inner workings. You convinced me to install whole home surge protection a while ago.
The interlock I installed for this guy installed on the main breaker and generator breaker, however both breakers had to be off to allow the interlock to be open to allow the lid to be taken on or off. the kind that mount to the panel lid are a lot better but I think that might vary with type testing and manufacture / model. But it is really annoying to have to turn off a large two-story guest house garage workshop office to be able to take the lid on and off to do maintenance repairs etc... Also if you do go this route label both the panel lid and breaker so when the panel is removed it still highly clear what breaker is the generator breaker.
Those old demark panels are way back from when Ma Bell owned everything all the way to the phones. Ma would smack your fingers if they caught you trying to work on that equipment yourself lol. It looks like this house used to be an office building at one time because this equipment looks like it was used for multiple phone lines and numbers. Unfortunately I have one of those recalled square D panels but luckily mine is good because I checked those screws with a tork screwdriver and all is good!
I used a lot of that very Telecom stuff right up till I retired last July, 37 Years. If I could feel Color, I could punch down those 66m150 Blocks in 6 Minutes HAHAHAHAHA
i see you were using the marks a lot marker i thought you went with sharpie pro as the best. are you using up all the left-over markers from test or is this an old video?
Haha very good eye, we were wondering if/when someone would comment! Exactly what you said: Just finishing off the old inventory and then we'll frolick into the future!
Hey Joel: Great info & videos. I’ve been looking at a 50 amp power inlet box, same company, also from Amazon. In reading Amazon comments, it’s mentioned that these are not UL listed - “If your house burns down your insurance company will not cover it. This is not listed and Approved by UL or ETL” 2 Questions: Is this a real concern, insurance companies refusing claims with NON-UL listed generator power inlet boxes? Should we ONLY be looking at purchasing UL listed generator power inlet boxes?
Wired versus wireless: Wiring advantage speed and security less hardware equals better reliability. Fiber wired systems combining wireless best of both worlds Wireless short range more hardware less reliability. I'd run collects and fiber between your buildings to support present and future requirements for IT.
do not get a wifi repeater. Spend the money and get a mesh router. When I was still working with customers every day, repeaters caused too many issues. when mesh came out it was a life saver. (also, with the mesh you can also daisy chain them together with cat5 if you ever notice they need a stronger connection to the main making them work more like an access point instead of a mesh)
Even better - just run a couple access points from your router. If you cannot run Ethernet from one to the others, then a mesh system is the next best option.
Although wireless data communication has gotten pretty good, there are still some cases where you get interference. In my experience, nothing beats the reliability of cabled connections. On top of that, if you have a home network that does more than just distribute your Internet connection, such as a NAS, Ethernet still has a pretty significant speed advantage. 1 Gbps has been around for 20 years and 2.5 and 10 Gbps are getting more common.
Interference aside, wireless is shared bandwidth, with top of the line mesh systems scraping just over 1 Gbps total bandwidth in actual use. Even if all of your devices are wireless, using wired backhaul to connect additional access points (or even just mesh extenders using a wired backhaul) allows you to greatly improve total bandwidth and devices. And yeah, if you run a surveillance system, NAS, or anything that requires internal bandwidth, then you obviously need better. Beyond that though, the majority of devices on the market, including brand new ones, are still using cheaper Wi-Fi 5 chipsets, or if they're Wi-Fi 6 they're for high bandwidth devices and not taking advantage of the sleep state improvements - this means every single device you connect to your wireless network, even if it's doing nothing, eats 0.5-1% of your total available bandwidth just to beacon and stay connected. That doesn't sound horrible until you have 30 plugs and lighting control devices, half a dozen smart TVs, smart electrical panel, your phones, your car, and suddenly 40% of your bandwidth isn't available. Every single device you wire in, even if it's a printer, reduces the load on your Wi-Fi - that's why every device that doesn't move in my house is wired to Ethernet, it cut my required wireless devices more than in half, and it's substantially cheaper and ends up with higher wireless performance to buy network switches and cable than to buy the ludicrously expensive Wi-Fi systems that can handle a 150+ device load. (to be fair, I do have an easy home to wire, many people don't).
wireless can do a large amount of the day to day data needs of people. that said low tolerance environments like audio i think should still be wired. and if you have any gamers in the house wiring in the console/PC is also a great idea.
Its not a liability but showing it might give homeowners dum ideas. Ya long shot but never know. Just a safety measure. Plenty of vids on youtube showing secondary connections. Maybe it was the request of the utility company.
It’s an indirect liability when you look at things as a business owner that has to actually deal with insurance and read fine prints in contracts. Especially when you’re doing something for the educational purpose like his videos. Someone might say well I saw it on his videos how it’s done then when they mess something up the liability is in the air and a lawyer will try and chew you in court
Your local electric company uses Subs? My local doesn't, they are all In-house employees. (I am a telecommunications lineman and work with the high voltage guys at least once a week).
Been binging these videos for weeks. Learned so much, and gave myself way more confidence than I thought I had. It's nice to see everything happen in real time, mistakes and challenges. This channel is so valuable, please continue to share these videos they are priceless!
Question, I've been in a lot of old houses with... heck, some still have the old coal gas lines and fixtures. When do you make the call that all of the old wiring and fixtures are to old to service and start recommending a complete tear out and rebuild?
Super interesting, we want to try that out but here in Canada (Ontario, specifically), you have to disconnect the neutral when you are backfeeding the panel with an alternate power source such as a battery pack or generator. That limits us to only using a transfer switch, or generator panel with a 3 pole breaker that disconnect the neutral. The fear is that there may be a backfeed on the neutral wire going back to the utility, which could be dangerous if the linemen are working on the infrastructure.
Some generators the kind that aren't OSHA approved for jobsites don't necessarily have the ground neutral bond. But it is something to watch out for and possibly remove the link in the generator and make a ground bond plug adapter although I have thought about doing with just a straight switch on the panel aftermarket.
True. Heard it myself from several linemen. Usually there is a ground rod installed @ every utility pole where a service is connected and bonded to the utility Neutral.
You saddened Me buy ruthlessly ripping out Telecom stuff that can be an artform to install. HAHAHAHAHAH In 37 Years I have installed thousands of those Blocks. I used a lot of that very Telecom stuff right up till I retired last July, If I could feel Color, I could punch down those 66m150 Blocks Blindfolded in about 6 Minutes per side HAHAHAHAHA Pop the back off the 66 Block and all the Copper tabs will Fall out if you Recycle Copper. Yes the tabs are Copper. When My House was being specked out for the Budget. I was very adamant that My Panel be a QO. Same Panel You have there. and a Bottom fed 50 amp Inlet Box. The Big heavy Cable hangs down, not out.
First thing I did when I bought my first house was put in a generator interlock, run 10/3 over to my back deck where a generator lives in a storage box. Very affordable and useful.
So glad you aren’t a Milwaukee commercial and use tools like rest of us. Nice job and appreciate the bloopers as well - as I don’t feel like a blunder when I make mistakes or strip something out. BTW I was having a lot of problems with Eaton CH 40-amp two pole breakers stripping the heads and can’t figure out why they make them so cheep - especially when our lives and safety is on the line. Take care Joel.
Well at least you can blame CHINESUEM on a faulty screw Whereas when I broke the lug on my lastest install was due to failure to convert foot lbs to inch lbs. So I can tell you that 45 lbs is more than 45in lbs
If you also have solar, generator interlocks get more complex as you need to assure the main and the solar breaker can't be on at the same time as the generator breaker. Your solar inverter trying to send power into your generator would be bad. There is a company (search online for solar generator interlock) that will custom make a generator interlock with a long plate along the front of the panel shaped to block both the main and a solar breaker at the opposite end of the bus. It has to be custom made because the length and shape will depend on your exact panel and layout of the main, generator, and solar breakers. It's a couple hundred bucks, pricey but still a lot cheaper than a 200A manual transfer switch.
The locking ring on those inlets is generally a holdover from the boating industry for extra water ingress protection. However those connectors are cheap and probably don't actually have an IP certification I was not impressed with the one that I installed and the locking ring didn't fully tighten down or make any seal.
Ya know this sudden electric car charging outlet craze reminds me of the wiring everyone's house with ethernet cables for internet then ten years later everyone started using Wi-Fi for everything I wonder if we will have wireless charging for cars or something in future just park car over pad on floor or something. i am waiting for the Mr. fusion powered cars where i can throw a banana peel into power car like back to the future 2.
I do find it funny people want wired internet still today. I gamed on wireless internet over 20 years ago now without issues, just need quality equipment, good signal. I run fully wireless at home, without issue with a couple access points. I ran the Ethernet through my basement, into the attic, then into the ceiling in the couple key spots for the APs to have great signal for the whole house. Ping is always 16ms-17ms. If I was connected with Ethernet I literally would never notice a difference!
Not sure the AHJ here in CA will approve a sliding metal interlock on the dead front -- theory being that if the dead front is removed and/or lost (hey, it happens) the protection is gone, whereas locked-down interlocked breakers are much harder to casually defeat.
Well after the 25 hour power outage December 23, I decided inlet time and I got mine for like 25? bucks ebay. The nice thing is I only have about 3 feet to the outside unlike the one I put in for somebody else. I figured go for 50 amp then it's future proofed I don't have to feed the the full 50A if and when I do get a generator or later decide to get a bigger generator or if I don't need to run the big generator. By the way that power outage I mentioned I did some sketchy things which I have not fully undone to connect into the 3000w PSW inverter I haven't fully finished installing in my van.... I was thinking I over paid for it (more than I would ever need) and it paid for itself in one day, was running the refrigerator, lights, and TV then somebody just decided to come and run the microwave! Hay No we don't have the power on yet. Well I didn't manage to maintain all of that and the battery chargers topping up the batteries from the previous night, I was still impressed with the inverter that I got wondering what it would've been able to do had I had something a little heavier than a 14 gauge extension cord in 15°F temperatures. Sketchy things that I did. the 2x20 amp breakers that are attached to each other on either phases that are still in the panel and off. The safer suicide cord, it's like a suicide cord but it's safer because it's got a switch in between with neon light. ( Although made for temporary emergency usages like when I'm at somebody's house when they're not there and their power is not on. I am also working on a even safer suicide box ). Note about suicide cords it's very easy to get confused on what is going where when half the room is dark and that's for a qualified electrical person, imagine if somebody just accidentally unplugged the darn thing and assumed like everything else in their life that's designed not to have hot prongs....
Wireless has won the day over structured wiring until your kids decide they want to do gaming or anything that is low latency. You won't believe it but there are dropouts on Wi-Fi just long enough to mess with games and some other critical Realtime stuff. Not to mention the annoying microwave that knocks everybody off the Wi-Fi or unregulated air space of IOT and other cheap 2.4 GHz devices that are moving into the 5 GHz band because the other ones crowded and prime to interference. I fully understand it and unfortunately you're never gonna use that cat3 for anything other than telephone and slow speed data. But that was also a stupid spot for them to cram all of that in.
I really like the QO panels, it drives me nuts that everybody else uses panels with raised tabs just waiting for you to bump something against them or rub against it or bump it! I mean the QO panel you can still make contact with them but they're semi-recessed so it's a lot safer to work in if you have to work live.
Is there an issue using the utility neutral while feeding the panel from the generator with this mechanical generator panel interlock? Could there be a back feed on the neutral while the house is being fed from the generator creating an issue for the linemen working on the pole. Does the generator then have to have a floating neutral?
I put the same brand interlock in on my 200 amp Siemens panel. It. Fits decent. Super pricey. Btw I demoed out a bunch of 500 KCMIL lead jacketed high voltage cable this past summer. It’s so heavy, unbelievable they were able to pull that stuff in thru conduits 60-70 years ago.
Most panels have inexpensive hold-down devices available from the original manufacturer. For the amount charged for generator interlock kits ($40-$150 is typical), using a cable tie to the opposite breaker on the same stab seems a little under-engineered. Labeling is most likely to give pause, but something purpose built is a close second. A cable tie looks like something a bad DIYer left behind.
It's true. The spec sheets looked promising but that inlet box especially was disappointing. We generally include the links of what we _use_ more than what we'd _recommend_ . In this case, feel free to follow the link and look at "related items" 😅
20:48 re batteries. LOOK UP LOCAL CODE. In Ontario Canada for instance any ESS (battery) over 1kWh is regulated by the authority. Any ESS without a UL 9540a certificate requires an approved deviation to be located inside the habitable part of a home. The deviation (source: I went through it) requires a fire rated enclosure, redundant networked smoke alarms, and a max of (iirc) 20kWh total storage indoors (I think 40 or 50kWh on site). So those little River Delta Pro Eco Flow whatevers that are over 1kWh can actually be a code violation if wired to your home electrical system.
Another well-done, humorous video.. but, seriously, dude, don't push the panel cover in and look at the camera at the same time. You can do it.. others can't but will think they can, and someone might get hurt. I know you mean well... remember, half or more DYIs are totally green and this kind of thing could be very serious. Thx again for all you do. Wish I lived closer, I would apply with JE or at least reach out to meet you n yours. Tc
Sneak in a meter bypass switch for the less fortunate people to get power when they have a money emergency. Another great video... Glad you do this. I ordered a case of Leviton Porcelain light sockets with pull-strings and 3 prong outlet from The Amazon. Never again. Several were shattered, and of course I didn't find it until I had installed about 5. Then they wanted me to send them back, so I would have had to pull down what I already did, then pack them, then figure out how to take them back. It was way more trouble than it was worth. The pull-strings were also poor quality. Plastic bell at the end of the string and a plastic snap at the top for the pull chain. Very disappointed with Leviton for that junk. In this video as you were talking about cleaning up the copper and giving the wires a wiggle, you definitely reminded me of Bob Ross. You are to electric what he is to painting. The thing about wireless is it causes the cancer, or at very least contributes to the amount of radiation that causes the cancer, and it slows down your internet speed. It also creates a security risk that is more prone to being hacked. When it comes to video games, or streaming, or even so much as these Tivo boxes, wired is the only way to go. I believe Category 8 is the standard now. Having rewired from Cat 5, to 5 E to 6, then 7, and now 8, I am insistent that all network wiring also be in steel conduit. It's a must so simplify wire fishing. And one wire is pulled, then just tape on the new to the end of the old and start pulling when it's time to upgrade. Makes things so much simpler and save a lot of time, aggravation, and from having to do surgery on your house.
I heard that many generators have the neutral and ground connected for exterior use which when connecting to your panel must be separated because the main panel is the only place where the neutral and ground can be bonded. At least that's what I heard.
Yes, some generators come set up with neutral bonded to ground if you’re going to have all the “critical” circuits in a subpanel (which isn’t bonded). When the generator is used in this manner, the bonded main panel is totally out of play so the bonding needs to take place at the generator.
Hey Joel, you do a great job with your informative videos. This one really made me smile as I thought of all the electrical grammar experts with the pointing out the use of “outlet, receptacle and plug” terminology. In this video one could argue, you installed an inlet plug. I obtained an ME over 45 years ago but worked in telco for one of the big 2 ILECs. Your attention to detail and knowing that the NEC requires removal of unused communications conductors in a building was 100% correct. I always found it interesting though that the ILECs (Incumbent Local Exchange Carriers) are not governed by the NEC and 99% of the time, we never removed those cables and or wires. A point to remember about the ILECs is they have their own set of practices and methods that nearly mimic the NEC with regard to insulation, gauge and type ow wire.
I see ECX bits, and Robertson square+Philips combined bits, but nothing like the Robertson+slotted bits you say are used on switches and sockets. Which is the real correct tool?
Jefferson Electric has an executive staff, an officiating board, an official resolution committee process and an executive compensation committee??? Just wondering why you’re calling yourself the CEO. 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
I would recommend Unifi for your internet upgrade in the future. While most devices uses wireless connectivity wired is beneficial for secured environments.
@@djpmatchbox yeah it greatly depends on where all he wants internet, from his electric meter setup I’m speculating it’s a large property with several separate buildings.
@@phillipcoplen8051 if it was my house I would do Unifi with cat5 or cat6 in the main house and then he said he's doing a bore from the meter to house soon. Id at that point run a conduit for fiber or cat6 and put unifi in the other structure
This pushes the design and liability onto the breaker manufacturer. The interlock company only needs to design a simple mechanical device, not a complex rated/certified/listed switch. Many automatic transfer switches are two standard circuit breakers turned off and on by a simple motor driven cam, packaged to look more integrated. I have a Generac six circuit manual transfer switch that is just 12 circuit breakers and a plastic cover with a sliding interlock. It doesn't need circuit breakers as overcurrent devices, but that must have been the least effort way to bring a high margin product to market.
35:18 on those brand of breakers I have same torque screwdriver as you do, love it, but I’ve learned to set it to 25-30 lbs-in for torquing I down, as have on occasion stripped out the terminal and it sucks! So, I’m very cautious now when torquing breakers, especially when some can cost over $50. Like the vids and channel a lot! Great info, and you have fun doing it. Awesome Cheers✌🏻
I've looked on AMAZON for the mechanical interlock devices, I think I read that the 2 zip ties are suppose to hold down the generator break. I might be wrong, he said they were for wire management...
Joel how do you get around the fact that most portable battery generators are neutral-ground bonded? In this case a 3pole transfer switch would be necessary as it's considered a separately derived system. I have yet to find a split phase (battery) gen that has the ability to break this bond.
Probably would have been good practice to meggar those old incoming cables after you terminated them. Bending them like you did could easily cause a fault. Maybe the linemen meggar tested before they reconnected.
There is a downside to wireless.. Spectrum there is only so much to go around. If you are in a big neighborhood with wifi routers and printers blasting signal you will find that you need more cabling either to more access points which makes things worse overall or hardwire more devices. I have an app on my phone that maps the signal from room to room. It can be quite revealing
Joel ditch the Step down bit, use the Milwaukee 49-22-4800 kit. It does 1/2, 3/4, and 1” holes. Way easier, doesn’t leave harsh burrs and works with impacts and drills.
@@ElectricProAcademy It doesn't get stuck in the hole. I got the tip from "Electrician U" but I tried it and it is a world of difference. The hex shank in an impact is the way to go with step bits. You can also snap them off so don't go crazy on it but it works really well.
You should attach the wire in the breaker when it's removed then click it in while breaker is off then click breaker on also if you put tork on the break while it's in you could mess up the panel/breaker/Hand if slips out
No, wireless has NOT won. Wireless is shared unless you are talking about going WiFi 6E, and I doubt you are going to spend the $$$. I run Gig ethernet on anything that is stationary, especially streaming devices, and save wireless for anything that does not have a wired NIC or moves around. Wireless has its place.
Appreciate the input, @kahilzinger! We've never had issues streaming over WiFi at our homes but could definitely understand certain use-cases benefiting from Ethernet there. Good one!
@Electric Pro Academy also, Power Over Ethernet is something to think about. I have 4 wireless access points throughout my home and garage. PoE means only 1 Cat-6 cable and since my switch is dual powered on dual UPSes, I have network for over an hour if the power goes out.
I have a local media server (Plex). I rip my 4k movies onto it and am able to stream in 4k anywhere in my home including in my backyard on a projector when it is nice out with a fire going and my favorite adult beverage.
Have structured cabling in your home where it makes sense. It didn't belong near that panel. I recommend a rack if you can with patch panels and female RJ-45 in wall plates or surface mount jacks...never field terminate male RJ-45. With age, the clips break off. Replacing a patch cord is much easier than reterminating the end...especially up a ladder. I make wiring contractors redo male RJ-45 terminated home runs.
Really interested in Span...like more the inner workings. You convinced me to install whole home surge protection a while ago.
sweet work, and real recovery to real issues. thanks. sorry about the carpet, dear
The interlock I installed for this guy installed on the main breaker and generator breaker, however both breakers had to be off to allow the interlock to be open to allow the lid to be taken on or off. the kind that mount to the panel lid are a lot better but I think that might vary with type testing and manufacture / model. But it is really annoying to have to turn off a large two-story guest house garage workshop office to be able to take the lid on and off to do maintenance repairs etc...
Also if you do go this route label both the panel lid and breaker so when the panel is removed it still highly clear what breaker is the generator breaker.
Those old demark panels are way back from when Ma Bell owned everything all the way to the phones. Ma would smack your fingers if they caught you trying to work on that equipment yourself lol. It looks like this house used to be an office building at one time because this equipment looks like it was used for multiple phone lines and numbers. Unfortunately I have one of those recalled square D panels but luckily mine is good because I checked those screws with a tork screwdriver and all is good!
I used a lot of that very Telecom stuff right up till I retired last July, 37 Years.
If I could feel Color, I could punch down those 66m150 Blocks in 6 Minutes HAHAHAHAHA
Good looking job and install Thx again for posting ... Any more vids on the sign job ?
Fantastic video !!
i see you were using the marks a lot marker i thought you went with sharpie pro as the best. are you using up all the left-over markers from test or is this an old video?
Haha very good eye, we were wondering if/when someone would comment! Exactly what you said: Just finishing off the old inventory and then we'll frolick into the future!
Mounting that flip lid onto the enclosure is what I was looking for. A woodhead box is $60 🤪
Hey Joel: Great info & videos.
I’ve been looking at a 50 amp power inlet box, same company, also from Amazon. In reading Amazon comments, it’s mentioned that these are not UL listed - “If your house burns down your insurance company will not cover it. This is not listed and Approved by UL or ETL”
2 Questions:
Is this a real concern, insurance companies refusing claims with NON-UL listed generator power inlet boxes?
Should we ONLY be looking at purchasing UL listed generator power inlet boxes?
It is nice you like to share your internet!
aww such a cute little baby band saw hehe
One of those copper water pipes in that closet has sharkbite fittings. Not a good idea in a closet with electric panels
Joel’s kids in the future: “Dad… it’s like impossible for me to stream GTA 6 over wifi 😭”
Why the NM cable? Stranded terminates so much easier and an insulated #14 ground has less likelihood of shorting out?
I respect that solution too!
That interlock isn’t up to much . Defeated by removing the panel cover ???
did anyone hear some weird loud BEEPING at around 2:00? if so, wtf wuz dat?
Linemen's truck/lift
Wired versus wireless:
Wiring advantage speed and security less hardware equals better reliability.
Fiber wired systems combining wireless best of both worlds
Wireless short range more hardware less reliability.
I'd run collects and fiber between your buildings to support present and future requirements for IT.
security cams should never be wireless .. not if you want them to stay effective ..
do not get a wifi repeater. Spend the money and get a mesh router. When I was still working with customers every day, repeaters caused too many issues. when mesh came out it was a life saver. (also, with the mesh you can also daisy chain them together with cat5 if you ever notice they need a stronger connection to the main making them work more like an access point instead of a mesh)
Even better - just run a couple access points from your router. If you cannot run Ethernet from one to the others, then a mesh system is the next best option.
SAFETY KAREN here. When do you plan on installing some lug covers for your service line connections? Hmmm? ;)
Although wireless data communication has gotten pretty good, there are still some cases where you get interference. In my experience, nothing beats the reliability of cabled connections. On top of that, if you have a home network that does more than just distribute your Internet connection, such as a NAS, Ethernet still has a pretty significant speed advantage. 1 Gbps has been around for 20 years and 2.5 and 10 Gbps are getting more common.
Interference aside, wireless is shared bandwidth, with top of the line mesh systems scraping just over 1 Gbps total bandwidth in actual use. Even if all of your devices are wireless, using wired backhaul to connect additional access points (or even just mesh extenders using a wired backhaul) allows you to greatly improve total bandwidth and devices. And yeah, if you run a surveillance system, NAS, or anything that requires internal bandwidth, then you obviously need better.
Beyond that though, the majority of devices on the market, including brand new ones, are still using cheaper Wi-Fi 5 chipsets, or if they're Wi-Fi 6 they're for high bandwidth devices and not taking advantage of the sleep state improvements - this means every single device you connect to your wireless network, even if it's doing nothing, eats 0.5-1% of your total available bandwidth just to beacon and stay connected. That doesn't sound horrible until you have 30 plugs and lighting control devices, half a dozen smart TVs, smart electrical panel, your phones, your car, and suddenly 40% of your bandwidth isn't available. Every single device you wire in, even if it's a printer, reduces the load on your Wi-Fi - that's why every device that doesn't move in my house is wired to Ethernet, it cut my required wireless devices more than in half, and it's substantially cheaper and ends up with higher wireless performance to buy network switches and cable than to buy the ludicrously expensive Wi-Fi systems that can handle a 150+ device load. (to be fair, I do have an easy home to wire, many people don't).
wireless can do a large amount of the day to day data needs of people. that said low tolerance environments like audio i think should still be wired. and if you have any gamers in the house wiring in the console/PC is also a great idea.
How is it a liability to show the crew moving service on the poles? This sounds like made up bs someone who doesn't like cameras made
Its not a liability but showing it might give homeowners dum ideas. Ya long shot but never know. Just a safety measure. Plenty of vids on youtube showing secondary connections. Maybe it was the request of the utility company.
That’s correct. Utilities have so much money people look for reasons to file against them. If the cameras show up they’re trained to walk away.
It’s an indirect liability when you look at things as a business owner that has to actually deal with insurance and read fine prints in contracts. Especially when you’re doing something for the educational purpose like his videos. Someone might say well I saw it on his videos how it’s done then when they mess something up the liability is in the air and a lawyer will try and chew you in court
Wouldn't the breaker box being in a cabinet like that be a violation too? I thought you had to have 3ft of open space in front of the breaker box
Your local electric company uses Subs? My local doesn't, they are all In-house employees. (I am a telecommunications lineman and work with the high voltage guys at least once a week).
Square D makes a hold down kit for QO breakers. It is very nice, and a hold down is required here.
Been binging these videos for weeks. Learned so much, and gave myself way more confidence than I thought I had. It's nice to see everything happen in real time, mistakes and challenges. This channel is so valuable, please continue to share these videos they are priceless!
Question, I've been in a lot of old houses with... heck, some still have the old coal gas lines and fixtures. When do you make the call that all of the old wiring and fixtures are to old to service and start recommending a complete tear out and rebuild?
Fiber is better than Ethernet, yes. But wired connectivity is much better than wireless for core network connections.
Super interesting, we want to try that out but here in Canada (Ontario, specifically), you have to disconnect the neutral when you are backfeeding the panel with an alternate power source such as a battery pack or generator. That limits us to only using a transfer switch, or generator panel with a 3 pole breaker that disconnect the neutral. The fear is that there may be a backfeed on the neutral wire going back to the utility, which could be dangerous if the linemen are working on the infrastructure.
Some generators the kind that aren't OSHA approved for jobsites don't necessarily have the ground neutral bond. But it is something to watch out for and possibly remove the link in the generator and make a ground bond plug adapter although I have thought about doing with just a straight switch on the panel aftermarket.
True. Heard it myself from several linemen. Usually there is a ground rod installed @ every utility pole where a service is connected and bonded to the utility Neutral.
And that generator panel job is near 5k$ for the customer instead of 2.3k$ for just an interlock!
You saddened Me buy ruthlessly ripping out Telecom stuff that can be an artform to install. HAHAHAHAHAH
In 37 Years I have installed thousands of those Blocks.
I used a lot of that very Telecom stuff right up till I retired last July,
If I could feel Color, I could punch down those 66m150 Blocks Blindfolded in about 6 Minutes per side HAHAHAHAHA
Pop the back off the 66 Block and all the Copper tabs will Fall out if you Recycle Copper. Yes the tabs are Copper.
When My House was being specked out for the Budget. I was very adamant that My Panel be a QO. Same Panel You have there. and a Bottom fed 50 amp Inlet Box. The Big heavy Cable hangs down, not out.
First thing I did when I bought my first house was put in a generator interlock, run 10/3 over to my back deck where a generator lives in a storage box. Very affordable and useful.
It's a lot easier to do ahead of time when it's not dark, and the prices come down a lot in the last decade.
So glad you aren’t a Milwaukee commercial and use tools like rest of us. Nice job and appreciate the bloopers as well - as I don’t feel like a blunder when I make mistakes or strip something out. BTW I was having a lot of problems with Eaton CH 40-amp two pole breakers stripping the heads and can’t figure out why they make them so cheep - especially when our lives and safety is on the line. Take care Joel.
Well at least you can blame CHINESUEM on a faulty screw Whereas when I broke the lug on my lastest install was due to failure to convert foot lbs to inch lbs. So I can tell you that 45 lbs is more than 45in lbs
If you also have solar, generator interlocks get more complex as you need to assure the main and the solar breaker can't be on at the same time as the generator breaker. Your solar inverter trying to send power into your generator would be bad. There is a company (search online for solar generator interlock) that will custom make a generator interlock with a long plate along the front of the panel shaped to block both the main and a solar breaker at the opposite end of the bus. It has to be custom made because the length and shape will depend on your exact panel and layout of the main, generator, and solar breakers. It's a couple hundred bucks, pricey but still a lot cheaper than a 200A manual transfer switch.
The locking ring on those inlets is generally a holdover from the boating industry for extra water ingress protection. However those connectors are cheap and probably don't actually have an IP certification I was not impressed with the one that I installed and the locking ring didn't fully tighten down or make any seal.
Ya know this sudden electric car charging outlet craze reminds me of the wiring everyone's house with ethernet cables for internet then ten years later everyone started using Wi-Fi for everything I wonder if we will have wireless charging for cars or something in future just park car over pad on floor or something. i am waiting for the Mr. fusion powered cars where i can throw a banana peel into power car like back to the future 2.
I do find it funny people want wired internet still today. I gamed on wireless internet over 20 years ago now without issues, just need quality equipment, good signal. I run fully wireless at home, without issue with a couple access points. I ran the Ethernet through my basement, into the attic, then into the ceiling in the couple key spots for the APs to have great signal for the whole house. Ping is always 16ms-17ms. If I was connected with Ethernet I literally would never notice a difference!
Not sure the AHJ here in CA will approve a sliding metal interlock on the dead front -- theory being that if the dead front is removed and/or lost (hey, it happens) the protection is gone, whereas locked-down interlocked breakers are much harder to casually defeat.
Well after the 25 hour power outage December 23, I decided inlet time and I got mine for like 25? bucks ebay. The nice thing is I only have about 3 feet to the outside unlike the one I put in for somebody else. I figured go for 50 amp then it's future proofed I don't have to feed the the full 50A if and when I do get a generator or later decide to get a bigger generator or if I don't need to run the big generator. By the way that power outage I mentioned I did some sketchy things which I have not fully undone to connect into the 3000w PSW inverter I haven't fully finished installing in my van.... I was thinking I over paid for it (more than I would ever need) and it paid for itself in one day, was running the refrigerator, lights, and TV then somebody just decided to come and run the microwave! Hay No we don't have the power on yet. Well I didn't manage to maintain all of that and the battery chargers topping up the batteries from the previous night, I was still impressed with the inverter that I got wondering what it would've been able to do had I had something a little heavier than a 14 gauge extension cord in 15°F temperatures.
Sketchy things that I did.
the 2x20 amp breakers that are attached to each other on either phases that are still in the panel and off.
The safer suicide cord, it's like a suicide cord but it's safer because it's got a switch in between with neon light. ( Although made for temporary emergency usages like when I'm at somebody's house when they're not there and their power is not on. I am also working on a even safer suicide box ).
Note about suicide cords it's very easy to get confused on what is going where when half the room is dark and that's for a qualified electrical person, imagine if somebody just accidentally unplugged the darn thing and assumed like everything else in their life that's designed not to have hot prongs....
Wireless has won the day over structured wiring until your kids decide they want to do gaming or anything that is low latency. You won't believe it but there are dropouts on Wi-Fi just long enough to mess with games and some other critical Realtime stuff. Not to mention the annoying microwave that knocks everybody off the Wi-Fi or unregulated air space of IOT and other cheap 2.4 GHz devices that are moving into the 5 GHz band because the other ones crowded and prime to interference.
I fully understand it and unfortunately you're never gonna use that cat3 for anything other than telephone and slow speed data.
But that was also a stupid spot for them to cram all of that in.
Safety Karen here, Hide !
Joel…Joel…Joel
You know better than that,🤔
do not install that generator outlet,
buy a different brand.
😂😇💭
Seriously! 😤 We linked it so you guys know what NOT to buy!
@@ElectricProAcademy 👍🤣
I really like the QO panels, it drives me nuts that everybody else uses panels with raised tabs just waiting for you to bump something against them or rub against it or bump it! I mean the QO panel you can still make contact with them but they're semi-recessed so it's a lot safer to work in if you have to work live.
Is there an issue using the utility neutral while feeding the panel from the generator with this mechanical generator panel interlock? Could there be a back feed on the neutral while the house is being fed from the generator creating an issue for the linemen working on the pole. Does the generator then have to have a floating neutral?
I put the same brand interlock in on my 200 amp Siemens panel. It. Fits decent. Super pricey.
Btw I demoed out a bunch of 500 KCMIL lead jacketed high voltage cable this past summer. It’s so heavy, unbelievable they were able to pull that stuff in thru conduits 60-70 years ago.
Those cable ties are intended to deter someone from moving the Gen breaker from its proper position (so the interlock remains functional).
Most panels have inexpensive hold-down devices available from the original manufacturer. For the amount charged for generator interlock kits ($40-$150 is typical), using a cable tie to the opposite breaker on the same stab seems a little under-engineered. Labeling is most likely to give pause, but something purpose built is a close second. A cable tie looks like something a bad DIYer left behind.
So you recommend a specific inlet box in your video and Amazon affiliate link to it, but your video shows that it’s complete junk.. 🤔
It's true. The spec sheets looked promising but that inlet box especially was disappointing. We generally include the links of what we _use_ more than what we'd _recommend_ . In this case, feel free to follow the link and look at "related items" 😅
The part used isn't UL or ETL listed either, similar products on Amazon that are shown on the page do show ETL listing.
20:48 re batteries. LOOK UP LOCAL CODE. In Ontario Canada for instance any ESS (battery) over 1kWh is regulated by the authority. Any ESS without a UL 9540a certificate requires an approved deviation to be located inside the habitable part of a home. The deviation (source: I went through it) requires a fire rated enclosure, redundant networked smoke alarms, and a max of (iirc) 20kWh total storage indoors (I think 40 or 50kWh on site).
So those little River Delta Pro Eco Flow whatevers that are over 1kWh can actually be a code violation if wired to your home electrical system.
Thank you, this is really good local code awareness. We do not have such a restriction in Indy, but viewers beware!
Another well-done, humorous video.. but, seriously, dude, don't push the panel cover in and look at the camera at the same time. You can do it.. others can't but will think they can, and someone might get hurt. I know you mean well... remember, half or more DYIs are totally green and this kind of thing could be very serious. Thx again for all you do. Wish I lived closer, I would apply with JE or at least reach out to meet you n yours. Tc
Please let us know if you go to any major national conferences. They've proven to be a very fun time for us to engage with y'all!
Sneak in a meter bypass switch for the less fortunate people to get power when they have a money emergency. Another great video... Glad you do this.
I ordered a case of Leviton Porcelain light sockets with pull-strings and 3 prong outlet from The Amazon. Never again. Several were shattered, and of course I didn't find it until I had installed about 5. Then they wanted me to send them back, so I would have had to pull down what I already did, then pack them, then figure out how to take them back. It was way more trouble than it was worth. The pull-strings were also poor quality. Plastic bell at the end of the string and a plastic snap at the top for the pull chain. Very disappointed with Leviton for that junk.
In this video as you were talking about cleaning up the copper and giving the wires a wiggle, you definitely reminded me of Bob Ross. You are to electric what he is to painting.
The thing about wireless is it causes the cancer, or at very least contributes to the amount of radiation that causes the cancer, and it slows down your internet speed. It also creates a security risk that is more prone to being hacked. When it comes to video games, or streaming, or even so much as these Tivo boxes, wired is the only way to go. I believe Category 8 is the standard now. Having rewired from Cat 5, to 5 E to 6, then 7, and now 8, I am insistent that all network wiring also be in steel conduit. It's a must so simplify wire fishing. And one wire is pulled, then just tape on the new to the end of the old and start pulling when it's time to upgrade. Makes things so much simpler and save a lot of time, aggravation, and from having to do surgery on your house.
I heard that many generators have the neutral and ground connected for exterior use which when connecting to your panel must be separated because the main panel is the only place where the neutral and ground can be bonded. At least that's what I heard.
Yes, some generators come set up with neutral bonded to ground if you’re going to have all the “critical” circuits in a subpanel (which isn’t bonded). When the generator is used in this manner, the bonded main panel is totally out of play so the bonding needs to take place at the generator.
Does the utility company charge you each time they havd to come out for a dis/connect? By the hour or flat rate?
Hey Joel, you do a great job with your informative videos. This one really made me smile as I thought of all the electrical grammar experts with the pointing out the use of “outlet, receptacle and plug” terminology. In this video one could argue, you installed an inlet plug.
I obtained an ME over 45 years ago but worked in telco for one of the big 2 ILECs. Your attention to detail and knowing that the NEC requires removal of unused communications conductors in a building was 100% correct. I always found it interesting though that the ILECs (Incumbent Local Exchange Carriers) are not governed by the NEC and 99% of the time, we never removed those cables and or wires. A point to remember about the ILECs is they have their own set of practices and methods that nearly mimic the NEC with regard to insulation, gauge and type ow wire.
Thank you, Bruce!!
I see ECX bits, and Robertson square+Philips combined bits, but nothing like the Robertson+slotted bits you say are used on switches and sockets. Which is the real correct tool?
Slava Ukraini!
Would an outdoor Inlet need to be installed to a gfci breaker since it is permanently located outdoors?
Jefferson Electric has an executive staff, an officiating board, an official resolution committee process and an executive compensation committee??? Just wondering why you’re calling yourself the CEO. 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
I would recommend Unifi for your internet upgrade in the future. While most devices uses wireless connectivity wired is beneficial for secured environments.
yep, either unifi or a mesh. either or will serve him well. I would also move the router to the panel area and hide it so it can't be messed with.
@@djpmatchbox yeah it greatly depends on where all he wants internet, from his electric meter setup I’m speculating it’s a large property with several separate buildings.
@@phillipcoplen8051 if it was my house I would do Unifi with cat5 or cat6 in the main house and then he said he's doing a bore from the meter to house soon. Id at that point run a conduit for fiber or cat6 and put unifi in the other structure
Why mechanical interlock cannot be a single switch with a middle position. This is so primitive.
This pushes the design and liability onto the breaker manufacturer. The interlock company only needs to design a simple mechanical device, not a complex rated/certified/listed switch.
Many automatic transfer switches are two standard circuit breakers turned off and on by a simple motor driven cam, packaged to look more integrated. I have a Generac six circuit manual transfer switch that is just 12 circuit breakers and a plastic cover with a sliding interlock. It doesn't need circuit breakers as overcurrent devices, but that must have been the least effort way to bring a high margin product to market.
35:18 on those brand of breakers I have same torque screwdriver as you do, love it, but I’ve learned to set it to 25-30 lbs-in for torquing I down, as have on occasion stripped out the terminal and it sucks! So, I’m very cautious now when torquing breakers, especially when some can cost over $50.
Like the vids and channel a lot! Great info, and you have fun doing it. Awesome
Cheers✌🏻
I've looked on AMAZON for the mechanical interlock devices, I think I read that the 2 zip ties are suppose to hold down the generator break. I might be wrong, he said they were for wire management...
Love the way you enlarged that hole inside a random cardboard box to prevent your kids from getting metal splinters. Nice detail!
Joel how do you get around the fact that most portable battery generators are neutral-ground bonded? In this case a 3pole transfer switch would be necessary as it's considered a separately derived system. I have yet to find a split phase (battery) gen that has the ability to break this bond.
How would you go about installing this interlock kit with a generator and a 400 amp service? Or if you can make a video that would be great!
I worked for small electrical contractor in 1980. He was a thief. I did not stay there long I don't think he new the meaning of the NEC.
Probably would have been good practice to meggar those old incoming cables after you terminated them. Bending them like you did could easily cause a fault. Maybe the linemen meggar tested before they reconnected.
There is a downside to wireless.. Spectrum there is only so much to go around. If you are in a big neighborhood with wifi routers and printers blasting signal you will find that you need more cabling either to more access points which makes things worse overall or hardwire more devices. I have an app on my phone that maps the signal from room to room. It can be quite revealing
Joel ditch the Step down bit, use the Milwaukee 49-22-4800 kit. It does 1/2, 3/4, and 1” holes. Way easier, doesn’t leave harsh burrs and works with impacts and drills.
The Ukraine 🇺🇦 had me dying. Imagine supporting the fleecing of your nation.
I can't understand why you do not put breakers on main panels.
When you need to work on sub panels you just turn off breaker on main supply at meter
39:37 another tool can have and use here is self centering bit, yes make for metal; just gotta look around, as not as common as for wood.
I will take ethernet over wireless any day.
If it has a hex adapter an impact actually works better with a step bit than a regular drill
Really! Why's that?
@@ElectricProAcademy It doesn't get stuck in the hole. I got the tip from "Electrician U" but I tried it and it is a world of difference. The hex shank in an impact is the way to go with step bits. You can also snap them off so don't go crazy on it but it works really well.
Wired over wireless whenever possible for me.
no hold down kit with a span hat maaaaaaaan ;/
Anyway you can send me a Span panel?
whats the section with the "all unused data must be removed' located in the NEC?
oh nm just seen how you strip romex
You should attach the wire in the breaker when it's removed then click it in while breaker is off then click breaker on also if you put tork on the break while it's in you could mess up the panel/breaker/Hand if slips out