29:01. The EGC is required to be connected to the metal box per 250.148. 250.148(B) Equipment Grounding Conductor Continuity. The arrangement of grounding connections shall be such that the disconnection or the removal of a luminaire, receptacle, or other device fed from the box does not interrupt the electrical continuity of the equipment grounding conductor(s) providing an effective ground-fault current path.
I've spent the last 6 months adding 6 new circuits for my basement (20A laundry room general outlets, 20A dedicated washer and gas dryer, 2x 20A general shop receptacles, 20A dedicated table saw and new 15A lighting circuits). The previous owners kept adding and adding to the original basement 20A circuit... way to many devices on it. Soon, I'll have just the sump and original basement lights (3) on the old circuit... way better. Next I do the garage... convert the old circuit just for lights and the door opener and add a new 20A for general outlets. The service breaker box has plenty of capacity and free breaker slots.
I sometimes use my phone camera with flash on as a periscope if I need to see something where I can't stick my head. Or sometimes I'll stick my phone through a hole and record a video and rewatch it..
I understand that 😂, in NY we are still on the 2017 but im new in the electrical field and have a 2020 code book and not a 2017 so it kind of confusing when studying the code lol.
Seems like it would have been easier to pop the line down through the ceiling at that inside corner of the bulkhead by where the sharp mesh was. I really enjoy your videos...thankyou.
My area(NH) been awhile I used to use a romex connecter to conduit fitting and than strip the rest of the romex sheathing off after connector and just feed the loose conductors into the emc. Some have said thts a code violation in later nec book
@@ElectricProAcademy yes but there is no box it's a romex connecter attached to an emt fitting/coupling however you can easily have the required sheathing in the coupling
I was recently installing a new outlet in an old house behind a new stove that is equipped with electric light burners and a new dishwasher. Which had no access in the crawl space under the house this particular house had no grounding wire attached to the dishwasher that was removed and the romex was to short to reach the new dishwasher. I was looking at the scope of the project and realized that the romex feeding the dishwasher also fed the garbage disposal so I decided to put in a junction box under the house to feed the dishwasher, garbage disposal, and new outlet for the stove. The flooring under the dishwasher was already compromised soi cut it out and was able to lay down and run new wire. The whole point of saying this is I couldn’t reach or see very well to run the wire from behind the stove outlet location to that junction box and I use a small inexpensive camera scope system taped to my pull rod’s which Bluetooth connects to my iPad and see what I was doing in a blind location such as the wire pull in this video. I fought for what seemed like three or four hours without the camera scope and after attaching the scope it took less than thirdly minutes to accomplish the wire pull. The scope I bought for less than forty dollars on Amazon and is normally used for plumbing purposes but worked great for blindly pulling wire though tight spaces and pulling wire through blind locations. I won’t pull wire without it again totally cut my work time to a third of what would have been. Enjoyed the video keep up the great work
Last comment, I have that tester also. Stop by Home Depot and pick up a Durable 6 in. power cord, converts 1-outlet into 2-outlets. Model#: HDC201 Sku#: 1002831574 Internet#: 303467490 and plug your tester into that. Helps you see the screen for outlets that are installed upside down or behind a dresser etc…..
I’ve got a few of those. One stays in my laptop bag so I always have two plugs if I find one plug or get someone to share at an airport where there are never enough. Also helpful when using smart outlet wart and you need more than one thing plugged into it. Or just an extra 12” of cord.
Again, thanks for this great video class. Personal bucket list? I got ya beat by 20 yrs....... 😕 I carry a super long extension cord all over my yard! Great job on this new addition!
great info and presentation on how to professionally do this work. can you present some approaches on how to install gfci's in locations that have two wire systems?
@ 29:00. Why was ground not attached to the outlet box too. It just to gfci. Not the ground screw in the box. If hot wire come loose and touch box it ⚡️
Aha….. I was wondering how you were getting the work done without the kids interrupting you. They’re yours!!! Whenever I show up to a job kids gravitate towards me and want to help. I don’t mind because I like kids. I’ve even been invited to birthday parties and graduations over the years!
I suggest getting a cheap, USB powered borescope from amazon. It makes probing a lot easier. It can be taped to fish sticks so you can have more control of it.
Get yourself a cheap USB borescope cam to use with a phone/tablet/laptop. It takes a lot of the guesswork out of jobs like this. In the case of an open ceiling you can also often just stick your phone up in the cavity and have a look around. I've had great success guiding fish rods to their destinations through walls by placing a camera in the wall so that I can see what the heck I'm doing. Sometimes I even tape the borecam to the fish stick and take it along for the ride. Once you've used a camera every other technique is just madness.
@@ElectricProAcademy lol just being a smart ass we have all been there without the right tool or an unknown situation that you had to make it work just to have someone else or you figure it out later to come up with an easier solution
I own 2 southwire cable spools. Also you may want to remove the plastic wrapper off your cable :P I also love when "real" electricians show their mistakes and admit they are human too. Great video. I just did a big subpanel. Not sure my torque wrench is the greatest, but 100% 36 and 45in lbs seemed WAY too much on some items...
When drilling thru that bulkhead into the ceiling void ¿? Wouldn't a ⅝ x54" whip bit been better choice. That way you could attach a pull wire all together. Also as a tip that had to done several times. When pulling wire thru suspended ceiling, Cut a small slit in a tennis ball, then insert then fold over about ½" the end of the NM sheat in the slit. It will bounce it along the ceiling tiles and the metal frames. Oh and one more thought where you had the Gas Line pinching the NM wires Use a Plastic Door Shims or even Toilet Shims too.
In our area, I’ve seen MC wire at nearly the same price as NM. Considering all the sharp obstacles, why would you not use Armorlite 12/2? Seems the aluminum jacket is a nice perk when price is not a big factor. Nice tutorial and you make it look sooooooo easy.
some places allow main to be on meter base so that would be where neutral and ground would be connected and considered the first means of disconnection , and so yes the first panel could technechly be a sub panel , not saying thats the case here tho because people always screw this up lol
Great video & very clean work. 👍where you used the insulated bushing is a strain relief not required? I've always used emt to romex/nm transition couplings
how many cuts from the video do you make to edit the curse words, just the wire lath alone would have ruined the show if i was filming, great video, keep up the great work, and thanks for sharing your expertise.
Can anyone point me to the code reference that prohibits the NM cable from touching the gas line? I can’t find anything in articles 300 or 334. Is that a local specification? I checked the 2017 and 2023 NEC, but I think Indiana is on 2008; however I don’t think that’s a requirement that would have been removed.
I'm watching you struggle with drilling these holes and wondering why you don't have a flexible cable installer's bit. They're usually 36 inches long and have a hole in the auger tip so you can pull your wire back out. They're designed for drilling around obstructions, through framing members inside of finished walls and would be perfect for what you're trying to accomplish here. I bought a cheap one at a local electronics store and it's worked absolutely brilliantly. I use it often.
@@ElectricProAcademy Ten holes? I guess you're probably exaggerating. My current one might be by Irwin? It's on a job site right now so I don't remember. I know I've bought cheap Chinese bits at a local electronics retailer and it lasted for quite a while. To be clear I use installer bits only when I can't get into a space with a regular auger or spade bit.
Instead of reaching into a dark space, why not light the area where you were reaching into and darken the area where you sent up the fish sticks. Light is your friend.
Put your smart phone on video mode with the light (flash) on and place into the opening while rotating the phone. Then watch the video and plan your work.
"You might hit something and potentially cause some peripheral damages to where you've got to cut out a large section of finished materials..." Proceeds to use 2 foot 3/4" drill... 🤣
I purchased the same Klein Voltage GFCI Tester that he has from Amazon and the damn thing did not work ! In the Trash it went and I purchased a Amp Probe GFCI Voltage instead that worked ! Both had/has the GFCI Trip Button feature to enable one to test GFCI Receptacles.
I didn't see a ground bonding the box. While the yoke on the receptacle is bonded to the ground screw, it is my understanding that the box is still required to have a grounding pigtail.
You threw me off when you introduced yourself as "Bob Ross." Obviously you and I know who that is, but I was surprised my Mother didn't know his name, and my Dad is totally clueless. I used to watch him close and always wished I could paint. Assuming I could afford all the stuff, and follow him a long, at the end of the show, he'd have another masterpiece and I'd have a big mess. I always wanted to draw and paint but I never could. Oh well. Easel come, easel go. I also agree with you on the GFCI idea. My philosophy has always been to have more than I need, than not enough because it's better to have it, and not need it, than to need it, and not have it. I am also still debating with myself if it is better to have a GFCI outlet if I have a GFCI breaker, or does it hurt to have it or is it possible to have too much safety ? Also price dictates what actually happens in the end. I noticed that you installed a box using a ground screw, but you did not connect the ground screw. I understand that the GFCI being grounded also grounds the yoke and the box then will be grounded too but why not use the screw ? You also made a point to make sure to use a box with said screw. Most boxes do not come with a screw. Though moot anyway, I am for "if you have it, use it." So I am just curious why you made sure you had it but did not use it. I really hate these LED lights on GFCI too. They've been fine forever without them, then all at once, a LED. Then each one is different. A green light on, no light tripped, in your case a green and red light when tripped, which makes no sense, another one I have has no light unless tripped, then there is a yellow LED. Also makes NO SENSE Obviously just another way for the electric company to milk a few more pennies out of customers. Their greed has no end. Anyway, another great video. Thank you for posting. Always entertained and kept company in my days of loneliness.
also at 30:00 what was the reason you didnt have to bond bare ground to the green screw in box? I think you are the man and do awesome work. your code knowledge is second to none. great videos
Having worked in the trade for more than 55 years as a Licensed Journeyman Electrician , Residential & Commercial, and still working at it sometimes , why those 1900 boxes did not have screw holes on all 4 corners for attaching the Metal plates to them instead of just two ? ?
I would like to know, if I am wiring a 14-30R with 10/3 wire, do I need to replace all my 10/2 wire to my double breaker or can I just run a red 10 AWG wire alongside it to a J box splice?
How come you didn't use 1/2 '' EMT to run that 12-2 NM-B Romex instead of using 3/4 '' ?? That 12-2 NM-B Romex would have fit into 1/2 '' EMT with no problem for that short of a run down the length of the wall to that 1900 box !
Joel...did you say your name was Bob Ross?
threw me for a loop there...
29:01. The EGC is required to be connected to the metal box per 250.148.
250.148(B) Equipment Grounding Conductor Continuity. The arrangement of grounding connections shall be such that the disconnection or the removal of a luminaire, receptacle, or other device fed from the box does not interrupt the electrical continuity of the equipment grounding conductor(s) providing an effective ground-fault current path.
Joel great work and excellent explanations. Your apprentices must be some of the best trained. Clear instruction and detail orientated.
I've spent the last 6 months adding 6 new circuits for my basement (20A laundry room general outlets, 20A dedicated washer and gas dryer, 2x 20A general shop receptacles, 20A dedicated table saw and new 15A lighting circuits). The previous owners kept adding and adding to the original basement 20A circuit... way to many devices on it. Soon, I'll have just the sump and original basement lights (3) on the old circuit... way better. Next I do the garage... convert the old circuit just for lights and the door opener and add a new 20A for general outlets. The service breaker box has plenty of capacity and free breaker slots.
Coated clothes line wire is a Electricians best friend for these types of jobs.
I found a $30 semi rigid bore-scope camera (pairs with phone) to be extremely helpful when fishing wire through blind areas.
Ferret Pro - Multi-Purpose Wireless Inspection Camera and Cable Pulling Tool with Free Cell Phone Wristband
I sometimes use my phone camera with flash on as a periscope if I need to see something where I can't stick my head. Or sometimes I'll stick my phone through a hole and record a video and rewatch it..
Joel, you forgot to bond the ground to the box. You installed the green ground screw in the box, but you did not bond it to the equipment ground wire.
Was just reading comments to see if someone put that lol!
I'd trust it. If there was any question that the ground wasn't connected to the mounting yoke, then nope.
Am I blind or is the box's ground screw not pigtailed into the Romex's ground wire?
Did you bond the box? I didnt see it bonded when you mounted the receptacle.
Thanks, great video, I like how you tell the price of the materials and what it might cost to hire it done. Keep up the good work.
2020 nec now says that gfci protection is required in basements, not just unfinished or unfinished portions.
I understand that 😂, in NY we are still on the 2017 but im new in the electrical field and have a 2020 code book and not a 2017 so it kind of confusing when studying the code lol.
Seems like it would have been easier to pop the line down through the ceiling at that inside corner of the bulkhead by where the sharp mesh was. I really enjoy your videos...thankyou.
My area(NH) been awhile I used to use a romex connecter to conduit fitting and than strip the rest of the romex sheathing off after connector and just feed the loose conductors into the emc. Some have said thts a code violation in later nec book
@@ElectricProAcademy yes but there is no box it's a romex connecter attached to an emt fitting/coupling however you can easily have the required sheathing in the coupling
I was recently installing a new outlet in an old house behind a new stove that is equipped with electric light burners and a new dishwasher. Which had no access in the crawl space under the house this particular house had no grounding wire attached to the dishwasher that was removed and the romex was to short to reach the new dishwasher. I was looking at the scope of the project and realized that the romex feeding the dishwasher also fed the garbage disposal so I decided to put in a junction box under the house to feed the dishwasher, garbage disposal, and new outlet for the stove. The flooring under the dishwasher was already compromised soi cut it out and was able to lay down and run new wire. The whole point of saying this is I couldn’t reach or see very well to run the wire from behind the stove outlet location to that junction box and I use a small inexpensive camera scope system taped to my pull rod’s which Bluetooth connects to my iPad and see what I was doing in a blind location such as the wire pull in this video. I fought for what seemed like three or four hours without the camera scope and after attaching the scope it took less than thirdly minutes to accomplish the wire pull. The scope I bought for less than forty dollars on Amazon and is normally used for plumbing purposes but worked great for blindly pulling wire though tight spaces and pulling wire through blind locations. I won’t pull wire without it again totally cut my work time to a third of what would have been. Enjoyed the video keep up the great work
Last comment, I have that tester also. Stop by Home Depot and pick up a Durable 6 in. power cord, converts 1-outlet into 2-outlets.
Model#: HDC201
Sku#: 1002831574
Internet#: 303467490 and plug your tester into that. Helps you see the screen for outlets that are installed upside down or behind a dresser etc…..
I’ve got a few of those. One stays in my laptop bag so I always have two plugs if I find one plug or get someone to share at an airport where there are never enough. Also helpful when using smart outlet wart and you need more than one thing plugged into it. Or just an extra 12” of cord.
Again, thanks for this great video class. Personal bucket list? I got ya beat by 20 yrs....... 😕 I carry a super long extension cord all over my yard! Great job on this new addition!
great info and presentation on how to professionally do this work. can you present some approaches on how to install gfci's in locations that have two wire systems?
Excellent little project well done ... Thx for posting ...
@ 29:00. Why was ground not attached to the outlet box too. It just to gfci. Not the ground screw in the box. If hot wire come loose and touch box it ⚡️
Aha….. I was wondering how you were getting the work done without the kids interrupting you. They’re yours!!! Whenever I show up to a job kids gravitate towards me and want to help. I don’t mind because I like kids. I’ve even been invited to birthday parties and graduations over the years!
I suggest getting a cheap, USB powered borescope from amazon. It makes probing a lot easier. It can be taped to fish sticks so you can have more control of it.
I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS DUDE SO WELL DONE EVERY THING explained just so well done
Get yourself a cheap USB borescope cam to use with a phone/tablet/laptop. It takes a lot of the guesswork out of jobs like this. In the case of an open ceiling you can also often just stick your phone up in the cavity and have a look around. I've had great success guiding fish rods to their destinations through walls by placing a camera in the wall so that I can see what the heck I'm doing.
Sometimes I even tape the borecam to the fish stick and take it along for the ride. Once you've used a camera every other technique is just madness.
First master I've seen to not have a cone step bit lol
@@ElectricProAcademy lol just being a smart ass we have all been there without the right tool or an unknown situation that you had to make it work just to have someone else or you figure it out later to come up with an easier solution
I own 2 southwire cable spools. Also you may want to remove the plastic wrapper off your cable :P
I also love when "real" electricians show their mistakes and admit they are human too.
Great video.
I just did a big subpanel. Not sure my torque wrench is the greatest, but 100% 36 and 45in lbs seemed WAY too much on some items...
When drilling thru that bulkhead into the ceiling void ¿? Wouldn't a ⅝ x54" whip bit been better choice. That way you could attach a pull wire all together. Also as a tip that had to done several times. When pulling wire thru suspended ceiling, Cut a small slit in a tennis ball, then insert then fold over about ½" the end of the NM sheat in the slit. It will bounce it along the ceiling tiles and the metal frames. Oh and one more thought where you had the Gas Line pinching the NM wires Use a Plastic Door Shims or even Toilet Shims too.
I agree with r, no bond in the box.
Love your show----excellent information----thank you!!! You sure do like to talk! Jim
The 0.01 is the time in seconds that the GFCI took to trip, not the voltage after the trip. 36:20
In our area, I’ve seen MC wire at nearly the same price as NM. Considering all the sharp obstacles, why would you not use Armorlite 12/2? Seems the aluminum jacket is a nice perk when price is not a big factor. Nice tutorial and you make it look sooooooo easy.
Since there no main disconnect on that panel wouldn’t it be considered a sub panel? Neutrals and ground separated?
some places allow main to be on meter base so that would be where neutral and ground would be connected and considered the first means of disconnection , and so yes the first panel could technechly be a sub panel , not saying thats the case here tho because people always screw this up lol
Great video & very clean work. 👍where you used the insulated bushing is a strain relief not required? I've always used emt to romex/nm transition couplings
How do you handle refrigerators being required to be gfi, it seems dumb to me since it can trip and cause food spoilage
Joel, another good video! I was looking for the video on installing GE and GEC but I can not fine it. What is the title?
how many cuts from the video do you make to edit the curse words, just the wire lath alone would have ruined the show if i was filming, great video, keep up the great work, and thanks for sharing your expertise.
Did you say bob ross? Lol
HE DID!!
Don’t worry because worrying doesn’t help….
Nice job.!!!
Have you had to deal with afci and afci/ gfci combo on 240volts circuits yet ?
@@ElectricProAcademy the big issue with all the afci/gfci is in homes built 50 yrs plus ago is all the shared neutrals and cross phased connections
GFCIs were a no-brainer but I am still skeptical that AFCIs are worth it long term.
Your humorus!
Can anyone point me to the code reference that prohibits the NM cable from touching the gas line? I can’t find anything in articles 300 or 334. Is that a local specification? I checked the 2017 and 2023 NEC, but I think Indiana is on 2008; however I don’t think that’s a requirement that would have been removed.
Yes, it's a Goldbook requirement for us, not NEC. (Indiana has also just updated to NEC 2020 code, FYI.)
It is SO much easier fishing wire when you have two people.
Any reason you didn’t bond the ground wire to the green box screw?
I'm watching you struggle with drilling these holes and wondering why you don't have a flexible cable installer's bit. They're usually 36 inches long and have a hole in the auger tip so you can pull your wire back out. They're designed for drilling around obstructions, through framing members inside of finished walls and would be perfect for what you're trying to accomplish here. I bought a cheap one at a local electronics store and it's worked absolutely brilliantly. I use it often.
@@ElectricProAcademy Ten holes? I guess you're probably exaggerating. My current one might be by Irwin? It's on a job site right now so I don't remember. I know I've bought cheap Chinese bits at a local electronics retailer and it lasted for quite a while.
To be clear I use installer bits only when I can't get into a space with a regular auger or spade bit.
Instead of reaching into a dark space, why not light the area where you were reaching into and darken the area where you sent up the fish sticks. Light is your friend.
I was thinking with that light maybe a work mirror.
Put your smart phone on video mode with the light (flash) on and place into the opening while rotating the phone. Then watch the video and plan your work.
"You might hit something and potentially cause some peripheral damages to where you've got to cut out a large section of finished materials..."
Proceeds to use 2 foot 3/4" drill... 🤣
how come u didnt bond the metal box?
That intro 😂
I purchased the same Klein Voltage GFCI Tester that he has from Amazon and the damn thing did not work ! In the Trash it went and I purchased a Amp Probe GFCI Voltage instead that worked ! Both had/has the GFCI Trip Button feature to enable one to test GFCI Receptacles.
@@ElectricProAcademy ; I bought another Klein GFCI Receptacle Tester and it works just fine ! First one must have been a factory defect . LOL
I didn't see a ground bonding the box. While the yoke on the receptacle is bonded to the ground screw, it is my understanding that the box is still required to have a grounding pigtail.
Broom stick handle in the hole and poke a hole in the ceiling
you did not offset your 3/4” EMT nor did you use a pigtail to ground your 4 square box to your GFIC
You threw me off when you introduced yourself as "Bob Ross." Obviously you and I know who that is, but I was surprised my Mother didn't know his name, and my Dad is totally clueless. I used to watch him close and always wished I could paint. Assuming I could afford all the stuff, and follow him a long, at the end of the show, he'd have another masterpiece and I'd have a big mess. I always wanted to draw and paint but I never could. Oh well. Easel come, easel go.
I also agree with you on the GFCI idea. My philosophy has always been to have more than I need, than not enough because it's better to have it, and not need it, than to need it, and not have it. I am also still debating with myself if it is better to have a GFCI outlet if I have a GFCI breaker, or does it hurt to have it or is it possible to have too much safety ? Also price dictates what actually happens in the end.
I noticed that you installed a box using a ground screw, but you did not connect the ground screw. I understand that the GFCI being grounded also grounds the yoke and the box then will be grounded too but why not use the screw ? You also made a point to make sure to use a box with said screw. Most boxes do not come with a screw. Though moot anyway, I am for "if you have it, use it." So I am just curious why you made sure you had it but did not use it.
I really hate these LED lights on GFCI too. They've been fine forever without them, then all at once, a LED. Then each one is different. A green light on, no light tripped, in your case a green and red light when tripped, which makes no sense, another one I have has no light unless tripped, then there is a yellow LED. Also makes NO SENSE Obviously just another way for the electric company to milk a few more pennies out of customers. Their greed has no end.
Anyway, another great video. Thank you for posting. Always entertained and kept company in my days of loneliness.
I usually use electrical tape around conductors in a metal box.
I find that leads to a sticky icky mess later down the road when the box needs serviced later.
Hi this is Bob Ross.. 😂😂😂
At 30:00 you could've wrapped the outlet with electrical tape to prevent shorting from hot to ground.
also at 30:00 what was the reason you didnt have to bond bare ground to the green screw in box? I think you are the man and do awesome work. your code knowledge is second to none. great videos
Surprised you haven't used a boroscope. Real handy for seeing what's inside walls. Fire blocks, pipes, holes, etc.
We got one! We used it on this project (& more to come!): ua-cam.com/video/XZvoM6PYhJs/v-deo.html
Having worked in the trade for more than 55 years as a Licensed Journeyman Electrician , Residential & Commercial, and still working at it sometimes , why those 1900 boxes did not have screw holes on all 4 corners for attaching the Metal plates to them instead of just two ? ?
I've never seen a "1900 box" with four cover screw tabs.
@@jovetj ; Me neither !
I've always wondered, why do they have 4 screw holes in those boxes but don't give you 4 screws? Shouldn't they all be screwed shut?
There are four holes to allow for freedom of rotation of the cover with respect to however the box is installed.
I would like to know, if I am wiring a 14-30R with 10/3 wire, do I need to replace all my 10/2 wire to my double breaker or can I just run a red 10 AWG wire alongside it to a J box splice?
Get the KNIPEX wire stripper...once you go KNIPEX 13 72 8 everything else sucks
Why would you drill through the bulk head with all that room in the corner 😂
ya didn't ground the box
so how about the same job in a "wet" basement.
How come you didn't use 1/2 '' EMT to run that 12-2 NM-B Romex instead of using 3/4 '' ?? That 12-2 NM-B Romex would have fit into 1/2 '' EMT with no problem for that short of a run down the length of the wall to that 1900 box !
I've always considered ¾" the minimum for Romex in (incomplete!) conduit. More space around the enclosed cable is a good thing.
Real life issues, not like the polished remodel shows.
What was your name again? 😮
😉
Endoscope cameras are becoming remarkably affordable.
bro I think ya forgot to bond box
All this talk about fish sticks... anyone hungry?
Do you like fish sticks? Do you like putting fish sticks in your mouth...?
Sorry man. ❤️ LOVE your stuff, but, ¡!!!!!! Don't be guessing in my basement! What if you clipped a wire or a pipe, Man!!!😵💫🥺🤬🤯