Handy Magnum Swap Info - What’s Different From An LA Engine?
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- Опубліковано 28 лип 2024
- Here’s a somewhat detailed look at the differences and similarities between two Chrysler engine series - the ‘64-‘93ish LA small block V8, such as a 318, 340 or 360, and the freshened ‘93-‘03ish Magnum 5.2 and 5.9. If you want to put a Magnum in your Mopar muscle car or old Dodge truck, here’s what you need to know.
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I was gonna save this video for tomorrow’s coffee but couldn’t resist! Very Interesting and looking forward to seeing a performance magnum engine build 😁
I've got a ''91 360 going into a '74 Dart. This helped a ton!
Love the floor boards... reminds me of my dads 64 belvedere. Dad would holler out"pot-hole" so us kids in the back seat would lift our feet up....just in case 😅
Great video! Great information! Thanks for sharing!
Very informative video! Excellent job!
i got a 1990 Dakota v6 auto 2wd and i have a 2000 ram 5.2 magnum motor ecu and harness i want to swap in and I'm not sure what wiring i need to do so I'm glad i found your videos
I enjoy seeing that you did a swap with the mpfi intact, it’s my favorite way to magnum swap, I 1994 5.2/46rh swapped my 75 el camino with all factory ram wiring and such, I’m in the process of doing a slightly cleaner swap the same way in my 73 challenger, with a 1998 5.2 and 95 harness, same as 94 wiring and ecu wise, black plastic ecu, except this is going infront of the factory 904 trans. I’ll post a video series on that one when the weater gets nicer here in the northeast
Nice! Yes, to me, that’s kind of the real value of the Magnum. There are definitely nice points to the architecture too, and they lend themselves to making some power. But I mostly prefer them in their stock fuel injected form.
Yet again LOVE the info here thanks boss
Now going to revisit "The 3 pedal solution". Damn rain has me stuck inside.
Great video!
It gave me a lot of information about those engines!
I hope you can make a video about all the electrical for the conversion!
And the type of transmissions I can mate with the Magnum!
I already have a Magnum 360 from a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I want to install in my ‘78 Plymouth Roadrunner!
I actually did a basic wiring guide a month or two back! It’s in the Magnum Stuff playlist on my channel if you need it. Any transmission that will bolt to an LA engine will bolt to a magnum, so there are a handful of options there.
I run vehicles with both styles built, after building them and running them i do prefer the LA block but the magnum heads are a bit nicer because you can run a higher ratio rocker
There are a lot of great things about the Magnum, for sure. The Magnum head is much better than standard cruising model LA heads. But they do crack… so there’s that.
Were you ever going to do a full swap video? I have a 79 D150 I am very interested in trying the magnum swap with the factory efi with a a833 4 speed. Would love a guide
Thanks , love the content!
My project for that never happened, but funny enough, a swap project is coming here in the next week or two.
Wow what a great video! I just hit the subscribe button, and am happy I found you. I have a 94 Dakota V6 5 speed that I dearly love but the darn engine has all kinds of running problems. After letting a real mechanic fiddle with it and $700 later it still bucks and jumps and cuts out. I would toss the computer and FI in a heart beat if I could find a carburetor intake, but there aren't any left to find, but there are good 5.2 Magnums around so I will go that route with a four barrel carb and a older, pre-computer, vacuum advance distributor from a LA engine. Any tips appreciated!!
The Magnum system is really quite good, usually, and you could convert to the V8 and keep the EFI really easily. I do understand wanting the simplicity of getting rid of it. Computer problems aren’t super uncommon with those, so if you haven’t tested a different one yet that might be worth your while - as long as you can find a junkyard one or borrow one or something. V6 only on that.
Anywho, if you do go V8 and carb, I’d grab one of those cheap knock off Magnum carb intakes off eBay, a Pertronix type distributor and matching coil is obscenely easy to wire for your ignition, and i’d probably use an Edelbrock carb in the 600-650 range. They work great for things like this. You will probably want to swap the in tank fuel pump for a lower pressure unit (TBI pump from 88-92ish comes to mind) and then you’ll still need an external regulator. There are various ways to deal with this but that’s probably the easiest.
I also have a 95 automatic 4 by 4 with tons of electrical issues I too want to learn how to do carb swap I just am not Good with electronic stuff
I believe those Mopar blocks have similarity but just had different bores 😮
What, the 5.2 and 5.9 Magnum? Yes… very, very similar, but they have different bores and main bearing journals.
I have a '96 Ram Van with the 5.9 magnum in it, and I've been thinking of tweaking it for some modest gains in performance and economy (don't want to make it so torquey that it eats the stock transmission, I already made that mistake once on a Chevy), so I'm looking forward to see how this develops.
They’ll eat the stock transmission without performance gains… ask me how I know… delete factory check valve in transmission cooling line (assuming vans have this as other models do, anyway) and add the biggest transmission cooler money can buy. Ask it nicely to live. Haha.
I will say, as I understand you are pretty limited on performance mods with the factory intake and injection system. I have heard of piggy back systems that can help support power upgrades - but beyond a cold air intake, maybe headers, and modification of the intake manifold and throttle body, you’re not going to be able to do much with the stock system.
Having said that, I haven’t tried such power upgrades myself, and I’m curious how far it could go. Stay tuned.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I'm thinking of doing the Hughes FI Air Gap intake kit, which I expect would fit in the existing space, work with the stock MPFI and throttle body, make for better breathing, and also eliminate the threat posed by air plenum gasket failure. Also possibly the "Big Gulp" throttle body. There is already an aux. trans cooler on the vehicle, presumably installed by the up-fitter (it's a Class B RV). I thought the A727 was pretty reliable if you don't flog it, and this is basically a 727 with an electronically controlled overdrive gear appended (the 46RE). (EDIT, 2 weeks later) And now, having done amore research, I know better. My 518 is behaving well so far, but I think I will do some preemptive work on it in the near future.
Put 3.90 gears in it. Get a mopar performance computer. They made them for a 96 ram 1500. And the over the counter converter. I went the 2300. But its going 2300 but nice getting into yhe tw band sooner change the trans shift solenoids they get tired. Adjust the bands. One inside one on the passenger's side.
@@DeadDodgeGaragethere really isn’t anything available that won’t give you the same performance as the stock Kegger , the only manifolds available will kill your torque until you get way up there in the RPMmmmms . It necessary in a van
Check out UTAWESOME on here. Pricy but definitely working towards knowledge .
What I did was took a magnum 318, completely redid the entire motor machine shop wise, put in pop ups, a 550 flat tappet cam, stock heads and a carb with an electric low psi fuel pump. My only issue is that the trans won’t shift out of first. Everything else runs great it just won’t shift, nor will it climb past 2 grand in gear. In park it will rev clear up and it’s fine. Any ideas? Figured you’d be the guy to ask. It’s a 46re automatic trans with a shift cable, everything’s hooked up properly and it shifted before I took the fuel injected motor out
I’m assuming this is in a factory Magnum vehicle? It’s probably very, very angry about not having a computer RPM / input shaft speed signal. You say everything is hooked up properly, but what “everything” is left after you swapped to the carb? PCM? Its wiring? Crank sensor? I’m also confused by the flat tappet conversion - the roller is the single best part of the Magnum! With the possible exception of the cylinder head. Haha.
The 46RE’s ability to function relies on the PCM controlling it. I have never tried to use a factory PCM to control the transmission with the engine controls gone. I am fairly certain that it needs to know engine speed at a minimum. I feel like map sensor reading and TPS may also come into play for tweaking shift points, but it can most likely live without one or both of those. You’re in uncharted territory for me there.
You should do a video on Magnum fuel injection to carb swap. I have a nice little 96 5.2 Dak that would love a carb swap.
I personally don’t see the point in trashing the Magnum EFI system in a rig like that. But if you really want to, all you have to do is bolt on an intake and a carb and figure out fuel supply with a lower pressure pump and/or a return style fuel pressure regulator. And making your transmission work if automatic. I’m not planning anything like that in the near future.
@@DeadDodgeGarage You would be correct, it would be stupid to do so. However, gas mileage isn't an issue and I want to make use of a bigger cam and other go fast goodies. Very difficult to get a tune if at all for these trucks. It's a 96 so it has a JTEC ODB2, but a tune probably would cost a small fortune if I can even get one anymore.
I would think about a Magnum swap but my LA 360 is already really fast for being in a 9,000 pound vehicle. Only so fast I can take on curves 😂
I am putting a mid 70’s LA 360/408 stroker in my 69 Dart GT. The Trick Flow heads are allowing me to use the "modified” magnum serpentine setup. I carefully removed the AC pump portion of the mount. Btw, good info on the video. You mentioned the heads on a magnum…I’ve heard from several people the problem is most of them are cracked, or will crack. Have you encountered this?
Awesome. I have seen the AC bracket modified in that way. That’s essentially all the non AC bracket is.
Yes. I would say the vast majority of the heads I’ve seen are cracked. A set that aren’t cracked are kind of like the holy grail. I have only seen a crack continue into a water jacket once. That was bad. Until that point, I say run them. They crack between the seats, and it causes no obvious performance issues.
7:43 actually the non ac accessory bracket has different geometry, to use the ac bracket without the compressor installed you will need a belt that is 2" longer then the non ac belt
Yes - they are slightly different in some applications. I have seen the smaller non-AC bracket with the slightly different idler positioning, and I have seen the AC bracket installed in some vehicles without AC. I don’t know if this is a year difference, line difference, plant difference. No idea.
I have a 1990 short bed dodge ram that had a 318 la with the fuel injection, me and my dad are putting a 96 360 magnum in it and it would be very helpful if you went thru how you wired it up in you're truck
Yes. Totally going to as soon as possible. Yours should be pretty straight forward, coming from the TBI - the relay control and power wires function the same, and may even be the same colors. You’ll need a higher pressure fuel pump - a later fuel tank would also be a good way to go.
I'm saving this. I'm wanting to put one in a 1977 D100. My curiosity is wiring to keep the fuel injection. I even have the factory ecm with it.
My first video on the Magnum in the Charger explains that I did this and why. It’s called Like An LS, But Less. I am planning to put out a wiring guide to help you get there… I haven’t gotten there yet.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I'll be looking forward to it. Still debating keeping the 46RE transmission with it.
@@johnstipetich9821 in a D series where there should be plenty of room (and even a factory crossmember for the early 90s that will bolt right to it) I would say you should. That extra gear is so nice. But make sure it’s a good transmission. Mine wasn’t…
I'm planning on having it rebuilt just in case. 1st gen 46RE. Plus have to get a speedometer sensor since I'll be going from 3.92 gears to 3.23 gears.
Got 86 4 speed an going to 93 magnum but my 4 speed doesn't have crank shaft sensor will a dei distributor be the same to give spark
I have a 5.9 magnum to " la conversion " in my 51 dodge kingsway . Im using a 850 thermoquad , airgap manifold , 25 thou head gaskets , comp cam , hugh springs and shorty headers and it kicks the crap outta the old efi kegger . Whole different animal . I have a727 behind it .
Nice. The kegger is definitely the limiting factor, as that engine design has all kinds of potential that isn't utilized in stock form. But stock form is pretty dang good for a car that just gets driven on the street.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Big difference going from 2 barrel to 4 barrel .
@@Ratridez sure, that's a factor too, but the factory 2 barrel throttle body is pretty decent sized. My understanding is that the kegger intake itself is the biggest problem.
The longevity issue about the Magnum, is very interesting. Why, please? Better bores, thinner rings, better thought out pistons?
The updated ring package, and the magic of self tuning EFI.
So as i understand. For carb, better build a 360LA with magnum heads or different heads..
Why? Bolt a carb intake off of eBay on your Magnum and you’re already having a great time. Roller cam and great heads. Personally, the point of the Magnum to me is usually to use the EFI. But it’s also a much better platform to build as a performance engine with a carb on top than the LA. There are a couple considerations with high lift cams and the ability to run a mechanical fuel pump, but it can be done and works very well.
I did the opposite. I pulled the 318 magnum out of my 92 W150 nv4500 and put in an 408 LA stroker.
Do magnums use the larger journals of a 360, or the smaller ones like a 273/318/340?
They are still split between the two displacements, with 5.2 having the small mains (but a shorter rear main cap, like 360) and the 5.9 having the larger mains.
engines are fun
Wish someone would do a video on just wiring the magnum up to run .iam dum about wiring but if had a video to look back on .I think I could do it
I’ve been planning to do exactly that for a year. Unfortunately I just haven’t gotten all of the pieces together to make the video yet.
I'm really looking forward to seeing you put the Mag in that truck. I just finished my 5.9 install last July, but it's OBD1 (94), therefore no tuning can be done. I have the biggest Hughes cam that still plays nice with the factory tune, long tube headers, and the fabled M1 EFI manifold went on 2 weeks ago. But the stock tune in the ECU is limiting; timing is conservative and the 5000 rpm rev limiter is annoying. There's the Mopar Performance computer P5249546 but I can't find one at a reasonable cost. There's one perpetually on eBay for $650, but that guy might as well frame it and put it on his wall at that price.
Digression over... I want to see your install because I bought a full OBD2 harness, ECU, injectors, and sensors from a 2001 truck so I can convert to OBD2. But I'm not thrilled about having to figure out all the wiring again so soon after getting the car running. I'm hoping your upcoming video(s) will save me some effort!
I think I’ll be doing OBD1 this time myself, because it’s what I have… I think I have four OBD1 harnesses and three computers, and zero OBD2 setups. The two I have done so far were both OBD2. The good news is it’s basically exactly the same wiring wise. I learned that when I did the van - it was originally TBI, and the speed inputs, relay controls (except there is only one for ASD and fuel,) and even sensor powers were essentially the same.
Maybe I’ll go to the junkyard and harvest an OBD2 setup. I would prefer that. We’ll see.
I almost bought an M1 intake for the Charger… it was $800. I don’t need it that badly.
I guess you're right, there are a couple wires to power and fuel pump and whatever else, and everything else plugs right in. It was painful for me because my setup came from a van where the ECU is on the driver's side, but I wanted it on the passenger inner fender. So there was lots of splicing to do, and I did every one with solder and heat shrink. At least I got a van power steering bracket out of the whole thing (sits lower - no battery relocation necessary.)
I paid $750 CAD for the M1. For a stock engine I would suggest you don't waste your money. On my engine it is noticeably worse below 3000 rpm, about the same as the kegger between 3000 and 4000, and better above 4000. I can't see how it would be better than the kegger with the stock cam and exhaust.
Hey, I know im a little late but I'm about to rebuild a junkyard 5.9 magnum to replace a 5.2 LA in my 91 W150. As with you, I'm stuck with OBD1. Just curious what cam you used, this is the first time I've done this and am struggling to find info. Thanks!
Also Im sticking with the TBI, already planning on needing a new intake and adapter plate to make that work
Heybuddy. Thank you for the info! Really helped me alot! Got a 318 LA in my old 84 datsun 300zx paired to a a833 4 speed, and i LOVE it. Only problem is, how the heck do i get into reverse? Lol. 1-4th works fine, just cant seem to get it to click to the side enough for reverse? Any info on that?
Funny, my brother and I test fit a 340 with six pack and shorty headers in a ‘78 280Z a bunch of years ago. The transmission would have been an A833. It fit in there great. Haha. I would guess that the rod for reverse is way out of adjustment, so the gate doesn’t line up. The linkage could also be put together wrong or damaged. In some cases where it isn’t too far off, you can apply pressure toward the left past 1-2, and while doing that, move the shifter front to back some to try and find the gate. Otherwise, pull the reverse rod (the lowest on the transmission side) from whichever end is easiest, and move the shifter end around by hand until you find the spot where the shift handle can be moved all the way over. An assistant would be helpful. You can also remove the rod and put a pin (a small allen wrench works) through the hole in the shifter that locks all of the rods in the center. Either of these methods will show you where the reverse arm on the shifter needs to be. You can then adjust, bend, smack, or generally abuse the reverse rod until it is the correct length. Oh - and make sure the lever on the transmission is bolted on the right direction. Been there…
@@DeadDodgeGarage oooo, okay thank you SO much man. Luckily i have plenty of room to do it all beneath the car, so it shouldnt be too bad. I really do appreciate the help!! I'll let u know when she gets rippin after work today(:.
so will i need to change the belt on my 318 magnum if i remove my ac stuff? been thinking of buying a bypass pulley for 30 bucks but seeing that itll give more room for thermostat changes ect. Or is that the factory belt?
The bypass pulley is one option. A shorter belt works. I think I’ve always used the factory belt for a non AC setup, but on some non AC vehicles the idler pulley is in a slightly different location and the belt length may be slightly different.
Sorry but one more question...does the magnum 360 block look like a 318 mag? thanks bro
Yes, the blocks are almost identical. They are marked 318 and 360.
Do I have to use a neutral balanced torque converter with the balanced magnum fly wheel?
Yes, correct. If there is a weight (or weights) on your converter, you can carefully cut, drill or grind the welds and knock it off.
Use the melling 1334 cam shaft. Found one at the parts store for 230 bucks. Gives you about .440 lift
Noice. And computer doesn’t hate it eh? I don’t really need the extra ponies any time soon. But that might change eventually.
@@DeadDodgeGarage it's a stock cam made for the Dakota r/t with 1.5 rockers it's only 411 lift
@@DeadDodgeGarage 74 dart 5.2 5 speed I'm back and forth on should I go carb or pcm. Leaning towards pcm because I just want to drive it. Does your charger have good power?
@@haro997 I would call the power acceptable - especially lower in the RPM range. It falls on its face around 4000 RPM or so - which, given the configuration of the kegger manifold, does make sense. But I feel like the flat spot I'm experiencing is excessive, and sometimes it seems to find an extra rush of power. I really like how it starts and runs, and I don't find it lacking. But it's no race car.
@@DeadDodgeGarage okay thanks. Does the battery fit under the hood on an A body with the magnum power steering pump? Also I was lucky enough to score a Mopar performance pcm. And I might get an m1 intake and 4 barrel throttle body down the road. The reliability and low maintenance kinda sells it for me
Hey thanks for heads up... is the block your showing in the video a magnum or LA thanks.
The black engine dangling from a chain is a Magnum 5.2/318. The orange engine in my Demon is a 340 LA.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks, I appreciate your help verry much. I was hoping I could tell by looking at the outside of the block. I think I'm gonna have to pull the heads to tell the difference. or at least take a really close look at the rocker arms but not sure if that will even let me know. Not even sure if it's really even a 360. I'm currently stocking up on parts and had not planned on pulling the engine apart till Christmas or even a little later. I think the rockers are the only concern at this point. Another big ticket item for me. Magnum oils through the push rods - Correct or no? Chryslers are so friggen weird. LOL
Yes, correct. Magnums have individual rocker arms instead of shaft mounted arms. Magnums also have ten bolt valve covers, and the top of the head is shaped differently to match the rectangular cover, so that’s an easy difference to spot. If you’re looking at a dressed engine, the lack of a mechanical fuel pump is a giveaway - unless of course someone has put earlier stuff on a Mag block. If you’re looking at a bare block, it’s a little trickier from the outside, but Magnum blocks have three threaded holes for the roller rocker retainer / “spider” in the valley. Early Magnum blocks are exactly the same casting as very late roller cam LA engines though, which have the same holes. But again, the blocks are interchangeable, so you could do the same build with either.
In any case, the displacement is cast into the block, on the driver side (if I’m remembering right) not far under the cylinder head mounting surface toward the back. The quickest and easiest way to tell when an engine is in a vehicle and you can’t see under there is the harmonic balancer - on a 318/5.2, the balancer ring is flat and plain. A 360/5.9 will have either a chunk taken out of the face of the balancer ring toward one side, or a D shaped weight attached to the front of the ring that the balancer pulley fits inside.
Hello we have a 5.2 dodge. We put in a new timing chain and gear. The keys are aligned.then we turn the grank to top dead center. Then confirmed the number 1 cylinder was top dead center top and lift the cap and it was pointed to number one plug. We put all back and now when starting it doesn't seem to keep running. Confused ?
I’m also confused. Aligned the keys, or the dots? If you pointed the keyways at eachother, that’s very wrong. When the dots are aligned, the crank is at top dead center #6, or 180 degrees off from TDC for cylinder 1. With the crank rotated so both dots are pointed upward, it is at TDC #1. With the crank at TDC 1, the keyway doesn’t point straight up, but something like 45 degrees off of vertical toward the driver side. If you aligned the dots and think you have this right, we can diagnose from there.
@@DeadDodgeGarage yes sorry the two dots were pointing at each other which the keys went into the slots
So with the timing chain on we hand cranked the crank till the harmonic balancer was lined up top dead center then confirmed the 1 cylinder was top dead center then I checked the cap and that was lined up to the number 1 . Can I call you or call me i don't text very good.
@@DeadDodgeGarage So at this point I'm pretty confused. I thought I did everything correct but seems like something is still wrong. So if you can let me know what you thought are I sure would appreciated thank you.
@@user-rw5cv7ud4d Ok. Very interesting. You can email me at jamienoise@gmail.com if you like. I'm not sure what else I can do to help though. If you aligned the dots as I said, it should be correct. Was anything else changed? Was anything else disconnected?
I have read swapping out an LA from a truck to put in a magnum some grinding is required, any videos showing this? I think it's just one of the extra mounting brackets but I am not sure
I’m not familiar with anything you would need to grind.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I spoke with a local Mopar guy and he told me that the engine mounts are different? I thought a magnum engine bolted right into a truck without any mount adapters needed. And that they stopped selling them. Is there anywhere for me to get information on this? I swear I've looked everywhere. I've joined the Mopar forums and I haven't really gotten a straight answer on this.
Think you could do that guide on that 79 truck you were talking about in a couple weeks?😅
@@DeadDodgeGarage not really interested in the horsepower, which I guess can jump up by almost 100 going from a standard LA to a magnum but you only get like 10 lb of torque more. So I'm thinking about just going back in with an LA block... This isn't going to be a racing truck after all. I'm just pulling tractors and hauling wood
@@MrSquigglies The Magnum is just better, in just about every way - even with a carburetor on it. The cylinder head is a much better design (for low-mild horsepower applications at least.) The ring package is better. They're easy to find, and they're basically always in good runnable shape thanks to the rings and EFI.
The Magnum has two types of mounts - the side mount pads used in Ram trucks and Dakota/Durango, and the traditional LA style mount ears to maintain backwards compatibility for the one year of D series trucks that used them and vans (as well as retrofit installs - if they were thinking that far ahead anyway.) The other reason the mount ears are the same is because the early Magnum block casting is literally the last LA block casting but with a few additions - namely, the extra pads, and the provision for the crank sensor.
If someone told you the mount ears were not there or were different, they were mistaken.
Im sorry, when is the installing and wiring video on an early car happening? 😅
That’s a great question! 😅
@@DeadDodgeGarage can i pleeeeqse have a great answer too? Im asked to do so soon for a friend in need. All i know is carbs, theres videos on the web but i imagine your explanation and guiding will rule them all…
7:37 are the exhaust manifold studs for your center two cylinders (3 and 5) missing?
Maaaaaybe 👀
That may answer the question I've been asking in several places: do those two studs penetrate the water jacket? Thanks.
@@n6mz I thought the middle did on Magnum. I know the outers don't, as they do on LA engines. I think I didn't have those bolts because they were broken off in the head.
My 1998 Ram factory service manual implies that they do (it says that if the stud comes out of the head with the nut then it has to be replaced with a new stud and threads sealed to prevent coolant leak). I'll let you know what I find when the weather over here in Rat-vue improves enough to work on it. Thanks again for the help.
What fuel pump did you use
A random one from O’Reilly that I can’t recommend. It wasn’t a good choice.
Hi, my Magnum 318 from Jeep ZJ5.2 swap in Russian military truck 😁👋🤝
Nice!
@@DeadDodgeGarage Yes, it really is nice! I assembled a magnum 318 with a manual transmission from a Soviet ZIL truck, and a clutch basket with a disk from a GAZ truck :-)
In addition, I made an automatic electric oil pressure maintenance system that will extend the life of this motor, like any other.
ua-cam.com/video/P0hgYJ2dIlQ/v-deo.html
I heard through a friend that you just swapped a 67 charger for a truck and parts.....would you be interested in selling the floor pan if that was one of the parts you got?
This sure is a small world we’re living in, isn’t it? Only four other people know about that, and two of them are my family. Lol. Anyway, I don’t know what I got. I haven’t gotten the truck or parts yet. If I don’t need it, I’ll sell it.
@@DeadDodgeGarage okay cool, the truck belonged to a friend of mine who sold it the the guy you're getting it f4om his brother works where I do.....lol....
Or a station wagon Mopar
My mom bought a brand new 1969 Dodge Polara with a 383 magnum engine,. It was definitely not fuel injected. ??? I'm not disputing what you say, I'm just confused. ( it also had autronic eye and it would SMOKE the tires until a gas station mechanic "tuned it up", then it turned into a dog.)
You do indeed seem to be confused. If I talked about early Chrysler electronic fuel injection, that was available in early ‘58 only. Not many were ever produced, and all were converted back to carburetors. I put a fuel injected 2000s engine in this car.
By the way, love your channel!😅
Magnums are bulletproof
Damn close!
A magnum has heads that are pron to crack..And have chevy vavle train
I like the LA motor
Oh, I’m aware. Me too.
I have a 1978 Dodge Magnum I WILL TRADE IT FOR A ANOTHER DODGE TRUCK OR CAR ESPECIALLY A SATELLITE OR A SHORT WHEEL BASE DODGE TRUCK LIKE THE LITTLE RED EXPRESS BUT IT AIN'T GOT TO BE A LITTLE RED EXPRESS
That’s not the kind of Magnum “swap” I was talking about 🤣 I would get on the B body Facetubes group and post it for trade.
Unfortunately, the Federal Exhaust Gas Fun Ban Ordinance (BABVVO) and Transport Tourism Emission Restriction Federal Ordinance (TEBBVO) will soon ban driving combustion engines in public outside of proven commuter trips and transport trips, because then exhaust gas fun WILL be a traffic offense!!!!!! Furthermore, a vehicle tax of 30,000 euros for exhaust gas-emitting combustion engines was threatened!!!!!!
I sure do love living in America sometimes tho
Is a euro equal to a peso?
@@bradleynelson5915 1 Euro buys 19.5 Mexican Pesos
What a LA?
The Chrysler small block engine family used from 1964-1992ish - 273,318,340,360. They are called the LA series, for “light A,” with the A engine being the earlier “small” V8.
you weld a tit on the fuel pump eccentric cam that lines up with one of the upper timing chain sprocket windows. fuck spending $500 on a long snout cam just to run the fuel pump!
Good thinking! The only thing I will say is, if you’re putting a carb on one, there’s also a really good chance you want you make some horsepower…
The magnum ports are ridiculous. Power killer. Put X heads on.
Those rockers are just like a ford
I have so many problems with this statement I can’t collect them all. X heads are great and all, but Magnum heads are pretty damn decent for my purposes.
@@DeadDodgeGarage the only good magnum heads are aftermarket, they were junk from the factory. The chambers are nicer than the x but the ports are so damn small on the magnum there's no room for real power. So that's what I mean. Trust me I hate saying that stuff because I'm all Mopar, if you look at the pedestal rockers they are almost an exact copy of Ford's.
@@DeadDodgeGarage oh I'm sorry I missed the part where you said "my purpose" lol.
Don't forget there's a different deck height as the magnum is shorter than the la