The Magnum 5.2 / 5.9 Intake Manifold Gasket Problem, And Other Common Issues - Dead Dodge Garage
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- Опубліковано 15 лют 2022
- Today on Dead Dodge Garage, it’s what might actually count as useful information if you own a Ram pickup or other Magnum - equipped vehicle made from 1993-2002. I guide you through some of the particulars of this repair, as well as show you how to diagnose an intake plate / plenum cover failure, and discuss some other common issues with this engine family.
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I really liked this video because it covered miscellaneous things that likely will come up during your repair. I am disassembled currently, with the keg being cleaned on the bench. My coolant temp sensor broke like yours, but none of my bolts did. I have the RamPlenumRepair plate in the mail and the Doorman gasket kit.
I have watched so many videos on the repair, this particular video showed lots of bits and pieces the others would leave out or avoid. Well done.
Happy to help! Thanks.
I can remember when these engines first started showing up in my shop with issues related to that gasket leaking.
I am surprised that Dodge/Mopar wasn't sued over this problem.
I rebuilt with my fathers help, a 5.2 in my 96 dakota. I used the hughes airgap intake to rectify the plenum issue, and a comp cam 20-746-9 since factory one was toast. Sounds mean with a single flow master no cat. Nice lope at idle, has a nice muscle car sound. Needs a tune to take full advantage of the cam but definitely quick fast revving little truck with a 5 speed.
Wow god was on my side when I did mine-no broken bolts. And this is a Michigan plow truck
Lucky you! I’m about to do one from Ocean Shores, WA… I’m afraid I will end up with at least a couple.
Capital G for God, John. Get to know him, repent and trust Jesus.
I have a 99 Dodge 5.9 and being the curious mechanic I am I checked the intake bolts only to find nearly every one loose 😧 so I pulled every one cleaned, lubed and torqued them down. Only one of the very front bolts broke off which will be fairly easy to drill out. 👍
It actually runs better now too and doesn't burn any oil yet at 140,000 miles.
I’ve dealt with that before - that’s why I go back and forth and re-torque many times.
Last summer I completely regasketed a 5.9 and put that EFI awesomeness into my 70 Swinger. I'm pretty sure the plenum gasket blew out again within the first 1000 miles. But I'm feeling good about it because a couple weeks ago I found the unicorn: M1 EFI Magnum intake. No more plenum gasket nonsense for me!
I recently bought some parts and the guy had an M1! He wanted more for that than I paid for an 833 4 speed, brand new valve covers, and some other odds and ends… so I thought better of it. How was your hood clearance with the kegger and an air cleaner in the Swinger? I roughly measured in an A body once and it seemed like there wouldn’t be space without a scoop. That was a ‘73 though, in which I think the engine sits higher? Not entirely sure on that.
@Jamie Attwood yeah, the asking price on mine was $1000 CAD and we settled on $750 CAD, so about $600 USD. That seems to be the going rate, so I wasn't unhappy with that.
At first I thought the clearance would be a problem, but after actually trying to close the hood i fount it isn't too bad. I have the 68/69 unsilenced filter housing with the 2.5 inch high filter. I had to tighten the wing nut 2 or 3 extra turns past the normal maximum and crush the filter just a little, otherwise a super small piece of the hood bracing rubs on the filter housing. I could clearance a 1/4 inch of the bracing but it's fine how it is.
You might be right about the 73+ spool mounts putting the engine higher than the older biscuit style. They definitely have less adjustability on engine height.
Theres a simpler fix if someone is ki da strapped on cash, you can get a replacement aluminum plate for around $100. The issue ive read on the steel plate varies between bolts being too long / the holes were not drilled and tapped deep enough to really hold the seal. The aluminum plate is like 1/4 in thick so the bolt holes are no longer an issue, and being aluminum should heat and contract at the same rate as the rest of the intake and will elimnate any gasket walking worries too. Knowing all that,I replaced my intake with a Hughes airgap intake for around $700 and very happy with it
with orig PCM? - or...you find a way to not need one :P
@garionporter5961 yeah, the entire factory EFI setup, plus the OD transmission.
Thank you for the ideas
My 318 has 362000+ and some of what you described does happen.
Yay!
Thanks for the video, I'm digging into a 5.2L 350 ram van
Man I had all the same bolts break as you did. Gonna have a fun time fixing that.
I had to do that on a 2000 van with a 3.9 V6. I agree too.
have a 1994 318ci in a jeep with 200k miles and never had the plenum leak. crankcase pressure is between 0 and 3 psi positive. also i watched another video of a 93 owner who also tested and had no leak. and yet for latter year magnums it is common.
i do love your simple test of plugging the pcv port and just feeling or listening for vacuum on the oil filler port. you deserve a shout out
i smiled with your passing reference to the water pump replacement “mess”, and i know exactly why you left the stat tube gasket alone, and pointed out the dumb o ring for the heater tube. been there. also the infamous timing chain cover gasket water leak. maybe you can do a vid on the magnum coolant leak nightmare.
I did… I made that one just a month or two later on this same truck. Good times.
@@DeadDodgeGarage nice. good job!
OMG I love hear you explain everything made me chuckle. Trying to find my EGP! Value in the intake manifold. The controll the 02 censers. Sheer hurum
EGR valve is at the back of the intake on the passenger side - if you have one.
@@DeadDodgeGarage if I have a intake, are egr valve?? PS Ty for your unexpected speedy responcse
Good video!
Been there, done that. end up having to get the plate from Hughes engines.... Big worth!
Extremely helpful video…1998 5.9L gas engine burning a lot of oil. Suspect cause is manifold gasket leaks…performed test plugging the PCV valve and checking for vacuum from the oil fill hole when idling. After shut off, found a large amount of oil had discharged thru tailpipe. Believe this indicated failed gaskets per your test…? Agree? Moving forward to replace…
Did you find vacuum under the cap during that test? If so, yes. Was it definitely engine oil in the tail pipe, or water that had picked up a bunch of nastiness on its way out? It’s not normal to see excessive oil shooting out the back, even in cases of major oil consumption.
@@DeadDodgeGarage before vacuum test, experienced fine droplets of oil coming from tailpipe. Could see on garage floor after a few mins of ideling and smear with rag. Definitely oil. Installed new PCV and breather valves and then blocked off PCV with oil fill cap off, and checked for vacuum. Yes… think I was able to detect vacuum at the oil fill hole. Tail pipe discharge noticeably greater, oil for sure, after vac. test… significantly greater? Hmmm? Thanks for all you do…motor barely has 100k on it…going to pull plugs and perform compression test, but with amount being burned, feel it has to be gaskets..
The 3.9 V6 has the same problem, had to do my 94 V6 pleneum gasket, had a lean misfire due to vacuum leaks there.
Interesting! I’ve never had to do one on a V6 before. But I’m sure I will eventually…
I have been victim of the front intake bolt snapping, i recently just took a 5.9 intake manifold off and didnt snap any. the front two were the toughest, but when i placed the bolt next to the intake on the front, the only threads that were junked/corroded were in the aluminum intake and not thr cast head. I thought for years it was the cast end just being exposed to the environment.
Dissimilar materials definitely do bad stuff. Like all of the broken exhaust bolts in Ford Modular V8s, 4.7s and new Hemis… I think the exposed end is a pathway in for moisture, because it’s only those bolts that do it - front and sometimes rear. And they do also seize in the head - quite effectively at times.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I had the 2 front snap as well, the rears were tricky to get out too
I've seen videos on where people custom make a thicker plenum plate to avoid/solve the leaking gasket. Any viewers out there can confirm if that fixed the gasket from failing again?
Ps to creator: you're awesome dude love the style of your videos!!
I know Hughes makes an upgraded plate. I don’t tend to see them warped or messed up though. I have always thought the gasket material was really the problem, and have simply replaced the gasket with a Felpro and moved on. I haven’t ever had one come back - but who knows about twenty years from now.
You bet! Thanks for watching.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I am currently doing one of these right now as well, I don’t see any advantage in switching to an aluminum plate either I don’t see where that would be any different - basically it is not a fantastic design with the way the intake bolts are vertical etc. The 360’s we know and love took a hit when they went fuel injected.
@@kellismith4329 the thin steel plate flexs and expands at a different rate than aluminum causing failure. The thick aluminum plate expands at same rate as the keg eliminating the failure rate of the gasket. Some people even have the aluminum plate welded onto the kegger eliminating the gasket altogether.
My 99 5.9 R/T timing gasket failed at 181k ..I replaced everything but the intake manifold that came off, everything on pulley line, kegger modded intake, lower pan mod, gasket. Oil pump, pickup, pan, distributor, dizzy, copper plugs, wires, mine had nowhere near that much oil, I replaced timing chain and gears too, water pump, fan clutch c a/c, lines, heater core , ported throttle body and port matched intake. Throttle body, and spacer…I did in my driveway in 6hrs 2:47 2:49
On my 3.9 I found the bolts that secure the bottom plate on the plenum were too long and bottomed out preventing a good tight seal. Each bolt has a little unthreaded nubbin on the end about 3/16" long. Grind off that nubbin and then the bolts will tighten up just fine with a new gasket in place.
Oh, that’s a new one. Good to know!
@@DeadDodgeGarage If you haven't seen it then it's probably just an isolated problem, not a fleet wide thing. I have heard one other guy had that problem on one of the forums. Other than him and me I don't know of anyone else finding the bolt holes too shallow. Seems like Dodge did everything they could to get a leak there!
I guess I lucked out, All the bolts came out easy. But mine had a egr pipe on the back that had to come loose, you need to remove the oil pressure sensor to get the pipe loose.
Ahhh yes. I’ve actually never had to do this yet on an earlier model with EGR. That pipe is really annoying. Nice your bolts came out though.
Great video. Here is a question for you as i do my research. I have 2000 1500 ram 5.2 magnum with 217,000. I noticed it was eating the oil. No loss of power. So i decided to do the hughes engines repair on it thinking that would resolve the issue. Even replaced the pcv with a OEM mopar PCV. Still Eats the oil To the tune of 1 quart every 300 miles. I am running Castrol 10w-30. Truck doesnt smoke on start up or while accelerating or decelerating. I've heard people say possible rings are bad. Again it doesn't smoke. Thank you for the video. Im about to go watch more your content. Cheers from WV
Well that’s a good few miles, but these tend to retain a good ring seal and cross thatching even above 200k. Hmm… I mean there aren’t a lot of other places it can go. The burning oil smoke may be converted in your catalytic converter, masking the issue - I’ve seen destroyed engines that barely run not smoke until the cat is unhooked - then it’s suddenly James Bond level smoke screen… a possibility to consider, at least. In your position, I would try some Lucas Oil “Stabilizer” additive. It has worked very well for me in many cases to reduce oil consumption.
thank you for your reply! Some details to add is my cat is Gutted! And actually today i added lucas to my engine! So i am hoping for the best. Got the trip meter reset to see how far i get. Good to know a good ring seal should still be present on these magnums. I def like my engine and truck.
@@DeadDodgeGarage
Mopar says if it's using one QT per 1000 that's acceptable. It's not acceptable to me but most manufacturers suggest thereabouts being acceptable. I would not use that testing method because the fresh air side is also on that valve cover. There's always going to be vacuum on the fresh air side. Some manufacturers like Ford use a baffle there so you wouldn't feel vacuum there. We never had that issue where we were the first owner and changed oil regularly and that engine lasted to just beyond 600,000 without it. The problem is oil left becomes acidic and acids cause gasket and seal issues...bad pcv valves also cause this gasket to fail and/or sludge issues. So oil maintenance is imperative if you want long engine life and for some reason that escapes a lot of owner's minds. Antifreeze does the same thing. The older it is the more acidic it becomes. Ruins radiators, heater cores, and water pumps.. sometimes head gaskets. So mine with 10w40 only uses a pint per 1000. I know where to get champion plugs about a buck a piece. It's always the same one. Once a year i throw that one away and put in a new one. It's cheaper than fixing it. If Mopar had any sense about using quality bolts or grade 5 bolts i wouldn't hesitate but since I know what I know I'm not planning on messing with it any time soon.
1) a baffle is not a brick wall. Vacuum in the crankcase will still exist above it.
2) to perform this test, I disconnect the PCV valve, which will introduce some vacuum. When there is enough vacuum that you can hear it and feel it with your hand on the cap hole, there is a problem.
3) I have seen this problem on a 60k mile van.
4) at least the plate fasteners are grade 8. I’m not so sure on those stupid intake manifold to cylinder head holts.
Your argument about aging fluids does make sense to me. But it’s also well beyond my wheelhouse.
There's some vacuum on mine but I did the other tests to confirm the issue and I also switched to a different oil and then it only used a pint in 2700 miles. If you were around here I'd pay someone else to do it for $500. But what they charge here there's absolutely no way I'd mess with it. If it were a Ford or Chevy intake i would have already done it myself a year ago. This one... I'd have to have it 5 years to be happy about how much I'm going to lose if I sell it. If i sold it today i wouldn't be happy and I'll lose the same or more a year from now. But if I keep it for 5 years I'm going to lose my shirt other ways. It's just a lose lose situation from a numbers perspective.
Dude, you are great! I am in Washington, I see that you are too. Ive done all my own work but I'm definitely a novice. How do I get ahold of you to look at my 97 zj?
Well you can email me at jamienoise@gmail.com. I’m out in Aberdeen which is pretty far from everything, but I do like ZJs quite a bit. Haha.
Funny and Informative, but I was hoping to see you fix all the broken plastic manifold bolts
Plastic?
@@DeadDodgeGarage Joke - I welded on a nut and it just broke right off again. Felt like plastic, it was that easy to break. Are there grade 1 bolts? I"m not sure how I'm going to get them out.
Great video! I have a 5.2L on a 97 Jeep GC. I recently spotted a coolant leak right around the base of the intake manifold and the head at the water heater hose (near the thermostat housing). While I suspect I may have a head gasket issue, have you ever seen an issue with coolant leak due to a bad intake gasket? is that common? Your insight would be much appreciated. Thank you
Not extremely common, but there is a coolant passage through the intake gasket there. It’s a lot more common to see the thermostat gasket leaking. Any chance it’s running down from there? Either way, I don’t think you’re looking at a head gasket leak - unless you have other symptoms that led to that conclusion.
@@DeadDodgeGarage thanks for the quick reply. I will do a compression, leak down and radiator pressure test to diagnose further. Thanks again, have a great weekend
yeah my plenum gasket just went, just replaced timing chain and water pump on 97 5.2
Yeap… it all happens at once, as usual
Thank you so much for the videos on 5.9. How do you recommend I clean the intake silvery gasket residue off the heads? It almost looks like the gasket residue around the coolant ports & furthest front & rear areas has melted right onto the head. I just hit high spots with a die grinder fine scoring pad and I don’t think it made a difference.
It’s really nasty stuff. I do the best I can with a razor scraper, a carbide, and a shop vac.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks! I think I got it all squared away. I have a follow up question. When I was cleaning the gasket residue off the intake manifold keg, I noticed that 6 of the 8 ports (on keg) were slightly dirty with oil residue (normal), then I saw the ports associated with cylinders 6&8 and it looked much cleaner. I fear there may be a small coolant leak in one or both of those cylinders. Coolant pressure tested out normal. Do you think it may be something of concern? I will try and scope each cylinder, and maybe that may tell more.
@@tomreed85 If you have a coolant consumption problem, this probably isn't where you would see it. There is fuel present there which acts as a cleaner. It could be that those two cylinders weren't getting oil as the others were. Hard to say, but coolant wouldn't be my first thought - unless you have other reasons to think there might be an issue?
I got a 99 Durango SLT 5.9L Magnum and have a couple of issues with it like the interior heat and ac don't work and had to replace the brain and a few other miscellaneous parts. What I would like to know is how to take it from EFI to carb and what parts that takes.
You need the PCM and at least some sensors present to make your transmission work. That EFI system is one of the best. People all over the place are converting their older Mopars to EFI with that Magnum engine and injection system. As much as I love the simplicity of a carb, there is very little point in trying to make one work in a Durango. I would just fix what is there. You could make the engine run with a carb, Magnum specific carb intake, and a stand-alone ignition system like the classic Mopar electronic ignition, an MSD setup, or similar.
I've seen a lot of that
Not a bad job to do. You can skip the bottom gasket and use The Right Stuff silicone. I also use a thing spread on the intake gaskets. And I use it instead of the rubber gaskets on either ends between the heads on the block.
It only becomes a bad job when the intake bolts break… which they often do. I don’t know if I would go for just right stuff on the plate. Interesting idea. I do use the later style fancy rubber with steel end seals for these. For LA intakes, I don’t use the end seals at all. I use Right Stuff. It works great.
@@DeadDodgeGarageyes they usually do break. I found using a welder on them works well to get them out if they are broken. But if I have any I think that are going to break not budging I cut the head off and then slide the intake off and then you can really get the heat down where it counts with the torch and vice grip them out. I found it easy to get replacement bolts. I put clean engine oil on the threads when they go back in. Been a while since I’ve done one.
I must have gotten lucky or maybe the Magnums in the 92' square body had better gaskets?. It still makes great power and runs smoothly.
I’ve never actually driven or worked on a Magnum in that body style, although I know they existed. I haven’t had to do many of these on the OBD1 era engines at all, now that I’m thinking about it. There may well have been a change in materials.
Thanks! i need your help i have a loud tick i changed pusshrods and lifters still there smoke also comes out of my exahust intake on the right side and you can fell in on the right spark pluge i have a 318 magnum
That sounds like a big exhaust leak - either from a blown out gasket, or a broken manifold. Maybe even a loose manifold or a broken bolt. To find the exact location of the leak, with the engine running, use a length of rubber hose with one end held against your ear. Hold the other end of the hose in the vicinity of the leak, and search around with that open end until you hear the leak clearly through the hose. Wherever it’s pointing is where your problem is. Hope that helps. You can always email me at DeadDodgeGarage@gmail.com with follow up questions. Thanks!
Where is this mechanic, I need him in my life haha
Western Washington state. Haha.
Please tell me how you got out the front two intake bolts I'm restoring my late father's pickup need help
They usually break. Due to the corrosion between the dissimilar materials and exposure to moisture, they are often hopelessly seized and super stuck. I would soak them with some penetrant for a day or two, apply heat to the outside of the head where the threads are with a small torch, smack them with a hammer, and then they’ll still probably break - but it’s worth a shot. I have had to extract a good few of them in the past. It can be a real bastard of a job. Good luck.
BE AWARE ,This is such a great video 😂
I have a 2003 R/T and I think I need to replace this, do you have a install video?
I’ve been chasing a shaky, rough idle in my 5.9, she’s running lean by looking at the plugs, has 2 o2 sensor codes too.
P0138 p0141. It’s driving me up a wall.
Going through the wiring today to the sensors, replaced them both with best ngk I believe, new champ plugs, I put in Al new injectors, thinking gotta be a vaccum leak and wiring. Any advice would be awesome, mechanic bill is killing me, I’m capable and eager to learn. Thanks!
Yes you are correct. O2 codes -don’t- mean bad O2s. If they say stuck lean, there is a reason! Yeah sounds like you’ve already done way too much. It is likely the plenum gasket. No, I don’t have a step by step. I don’t usually do step by step guides because… well, do this point I was doing this type of job in a production shop and didn’t really have the time. Also kind of don’t have the patience. Haha. I try to give you the important notes that you need but don’t walk you through taking apart and reassembling every piece really. Anyway, beware of broken intake bolts. That’s the one thing that will really screw an at home guy.
@@DeadDodgeGarage haha I totally get it, filming is a tedious process.
I’d assume I start by unplugging the battery, put terminals together, undo the wiring to the throttle body, maf and injectors etc, depressurize the fuel, disconnect line, then move to drain coolant and disconnect thermostat?
Once that is done start at the intake bolts? California truck so I don’t really see any rust, dry rot for sure on these old dodges is the cancer of the south lol
Thanks for the fast reply, your content is grade A 👌🏻
@@DeadDodgeGarage
Just wanted to say thanks again, I did this swap below in my apt car port 😂
Bolts were seized, got one to back out, drilled through the other one.
Painted it HEMI orange. It is not a super easy job lol but she runs great!
Awesome! Sorry, I don’t get notifications for comment replies so stuff falls through the cracks. Glad you got it. The intake bolt thing sucks, other than that, not so bad.
Local mechanic just told me I need this done. His estimate = $3,400!
That’s insane. I do these for about $500. Which compared to a regular shop this days is cheap, I’m sure, but still…
What all did you have to take off the front to get her out? Used to working on SBC. Glad don't have to pull distributor for this
Accessory bracket is in the way, so belt, alternator, AC compressor, then bracket.
@@DeadDodgeGarage cool I watched a video where dude pulled distributor cap out of the way did you have to pull that? Already have valve covers off. Think I got a bad lifter. Rocker nut tight, rod looks good, lots of play in it tho.
Can a badintake gasket cause bubbling in the radiator? I have a decent amount of water that comes out the exhaust
Negative… that would be head gasket or cracked head. Coolant does go through the intake gasket, but if it leaks, coolant ends up in the oil or outside the engine. There’s no way for it to exchange with combustion gasses.
Do you put silicone gasket maker when installing the intake manifold gaskets?
Only where they meet the end seals on these.
2001 360. I did the Hughes plenum fix several years ago. For a while now, I've had symptoms of the plenum gasket leaking (pinging at higher RPM, consumes about 1 qt every 3k miles). I was finally forced to deal with the timing cover gasket leak (been leaking for years) because the heater core decided to crap out. And I put that off several months because it was summer. Now it's cold at night and well, might as well fix it all at once in the hopes of buying coolant only once. I decided to take the intake off again and found oil inside, as expected. But the intake manifold gaskets and the plenum gaskets were fine. What else could be causing this oil in the intake? Junk PCV valve?
Huh. Well, a PCV valve could explain some of that I suppose. Make sure the valve still rattles. Do you have any intake ports that look slightly wet or oily? Any spark plugs with built up residue? Not much else makes sense but those gaskets, so I would want to be very sure they were fine.
@@DeadDodgeGarage the pcv valve does still rattle. The plenum gasket came off in one piece. It looks like it could even be used again. The intake manifold gaskets both came off in pretty much one piece. No breaks around the intake runners. One broke around a coolant jacket when I pulled it off. That's all. The intake runners do have oil residue in them. And the plugs show some as well. The passenger side plugs much more than the drivers side though. There is a significant oil stain around the PCV valve port on the inside of the kegger. I don't know if that's normal. I'm sure I've replaced this PCV valve before. But I doubt I used a MOPAR one. Maybe these engines are picky about which PCV valve you use?
Huh. Did you have excessive blow by if running with oil cap off and giving a light rev? I suppose it’s still possible the PCV is the culprit, that just seems suspicious. LS engines with PCV problems use a bit of oil and always foul out the one plug on #7. I’m very familiar with gasket problems on them. I can’t say I have ever seen any other oil usage problem on a Magnum. But there aren’t many options.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I didn't try running it with the oil cap off. I've owned this truck since 55k miles. Oil changed regularly. Theres about 130k on it now. Never abused. Nice and clean in the valley. What happened prior to my ownership I have no idea. I think it sat for a while (R title). Currently the kegger is off, dash is out, etc. I suppose the only thing to do from here is to put it all back together with a mopar pcv and see what happens. I could also run a compression test when it's back together to try to elimate that. I guess valve seals could cause oil consumption, but I dont think so much oil would end up back in the kegger if that were the case.
You mentioned if you have a tar pit in there it’s going to be a bad time? What does that mean. I just replaced my plenum plate and gasket it wasn’t a tarp it I would say but that rail did have a thick layer of tar like built up oil but all the voids were full of good oil?
You’re fine. It’s when you find the big gnarly carbon chunks… it’s a good sign that an engine has likely been well used and hasn’t been well serviced. The last one I opened was like that. I cleaned the heck out of everything and said a prayer.
I have a 97 dodge ram I’m dealing with a big coolant leak coming from the bottom of the truck cant figure out where it’s coming from I’m thinking the intake gasket or plenum gasket can u expect coolant leaks from these is my question ? Also if I change the plenum gasket do I have to change the plenum plate as well?
You don’t have to change the plate. You’ll have an absolute hell of a time getting the old cooked gasket off of it though. Intake gasket ends could leak coolant, yes, but if I were you I would get underneath and check water pump weep hole, timing cover, and then core plugs…
Can this also cause coolant to get into your oil because when I drain my oil and then hook pressure tester to my radiator and pump it to 15 psi coolant slowly drips out of the oil drain hole
The plate can’t, but the intake gasket or maybe even the timing cover could be the cause. It’s hard to pinpoint it from outside the engine if there isn’t corresponding external leak.
@@DeadDodgeGarage thank you for replying I just replaced the timing cover gasket 6 months ago with the water pump I barely drive this truck so I don't know if that is my problem I really hate to do this job over just to double-check my work but there is no external leak and the cooling system is holding pressure but coolant only drips out the oil hole when it is pressurized and I did make sure I sealed the bolts that needed to be sealed
Great video.
I believe the 8.0 v10s have the same problem
I believe theres a product called a "plenum repair plate" thats a 1/4 inch aluminum plate that bolts underneath the plenum to prevent this from happening again. Ive only been able to find this for the 5.2 and 5.9 not the 8.0 v10 unfortunately, if anyone knows of one for the v10 please lmk
hughs engine website may have it
Great video, I have to do my 99 5.2 1500 ram van, not looking forward to this. Thank you😢😢
Hey, at least on the ram van, you do almost the whole job from inside the van! It’s not so bad actually.
Would the plenum gasket make the engine just die out after 10 minutes or so..of changed everything on distributor tps map sensor IAC everything I have spark fuel new plugs it want stay running...after about 10 minutes it just dies...cranks no problem...runs no problem 10 minutes top then it dies...also new fuel pump...
No. Do not change the plenum gasket to try to fix that. You will be very disappointed. My first thought - try swapping around the relays in your power distribution / fuse and relay box. The ASD relay and fuel pump relay run the engine. Try using a couple others in their places for science. There are a lot of possibilities here, but that one’s free. If I were trying to diagnose this, I would have a scanner with live data attached to see what is happening when it dies. But not everyone has access to that.
Me who is doing this in my backyard with no welder or specialty tools
Every gasket is gone, same bolts broken, so much stop leak in the coolant that it congealed into a forbidden 7/11 slushy,
I’m tearing it down to the bare bones
Have the left side of the engine a few bolts away from pulling the head
Right side I haven’t even touched but will be getting done
Replacing a lot of things and upgrading things I can afford
Got the truck for free so I can’t really complain but I swear if I bust my knuckles because of one more broken bolt I swear to god it’s going to the scrap yard 😂
Definitely hard to complain for free! That sounds disgusting though. I just wrapped up all of this same stuff plus oil pan on a 94 ram. No broken bolts luckily… welder really helps. Maybe with them off you can find a shop to pull the broken bolts for you. That won’t be fun at all without a welder…
@@DeadDodgeGarage there’s really only one problem with that I kinda went no holds barred on the heads with a drill bit and put a hole in it where the gasket sits, I was already debating replacing them so I kinda have no choice at this point I mean oh well 🤷🏼♂️
The only thing really holding me up now is the exhaust, it’s in terrible shape and some of the bolts seem melted making it impossible to remove, I feel like I’ll be adding a exhaust to my shopping list as it’s more and more tempting to just sawzall it off to get to the bottom head bolts
I just can’t wait to be done so I can actually enjoy it
2003 dodge Durango SLT
Man, 3 broken intake bolts? I got really lucky that I only had one break and it was in the front. I slapped on a Hughes Airgap instead of fixing the plenum plate cause I didnt want to clean the kegger, and I can accelerate uphill again! My truck is a 99 dodge ram 1500 5.2. Now I just need to find a place that can get the timing cover off for me so I can fix the coolant leak from a water pump replacement last year, I got about 8 months on the old gasket before it started to slightly leak on the outside
Yep… that’s usually what happens. If you haven’t seen my other video on the timing cover, I urge people to just do both. I’ve done pumps alone in the past and learned the hard way. Haha. The Hughes setup is awesome. I’d love to mess with one of those one of these years. I just got a stepside Dodge with a 5.2 Magnum and MegaSquirt system, but still equipped with the kegger. I’m very impressed with the power. Block long burnouts with ease. I stand by my remarks that the kegger is solid for a regular street setup.
Yeah the kegger isnt bad, just the gasket setup. I chose after much reading to go with the swap because (if I dont accelerate crazy) it helps improve the mpg a bit and thats super appealing. Even if its just 2-4 I think its well worth it. Im waiting to get a ported throttle body for a ~300 cfm increase from stock
@@DeadDodgeGarage oh also I wasnt aware of the timing cover leak issue back then, I did just find you today, but I cant complain cause my old boss replaced the pump for free since he helped his buddy sell the truck to me
Yes I have a 5.9 I'm changing my intake gasket and the front bolt on driver side broke off tried drilling it no luck is there any other way I was thanking can I drill straight though and put a bolt and nut on it
Really isn't much room against the head to fit a nut. Drill it out and install heli coil is one option. I normally use welding and a pair of vice grips.
@@DeadDodgeGarage could I drill it out and retap new trends for a new bolt
i have a 95 that i did a carb conversion on and now its getting coolant in the oil and misfires, any pointers? i hope its the intake manifold gasket
Yeah, check your intake bolts. You have to go back and forth and re-torque them a good few times. Wouldn’t be surprised to find some loose given those symptoms.
Read the factory bolts are too long. Are the new bolts the same length or different? And by chance do you know the length needed?
I don’t think that’s the case. The factory bolts don’t reach all the way to the bottoms of the bolt holes in the head. The replacement bolts are similar but I can’t recall if they are exactly the same.
@Dead Dodge Garage Thanks alot for the reply and gotcha.
@@brianb5779 if you went for that kit from Hughes, the plenum plate is thicker anyway - I measured out all the holes the bolts do not bottom out, I put orange threadlocker on mine, also ultragrey both sides of plenum gasket, allowing 24 hrs to elapse before final torque
@@kellismith4329 Thanks a bunch Kelli
whered you get the new bolts?
They come in the Dorman gasket kit! They include everything you need - even a new thermostat and all of the small gaskets.
How do I remove one? I have a 95’ 1500 with the 5.9. I’ve removed the bolts I can see but it’s “stuck” is there any on the back?
I believe there are twelve intake bolts total. Yes, there are two at the very back that may be hard to see. After all the bolts are out, a few light taps with a hammer or some pry bar action may be required.
@@DeadDodgeGarage thank you, it may be caught up on the distributor,
@@sethsimmons7412 for you and anyone else, my early, pre-obd2 '95 with the 5.9l, there is a EGR tube coming from the exhaust manifold that screws into the back of the intake manifold, on the left side far back, heat from a torch and a wrench, she will eventually come out. my 300k mile rust-belt guy came out in one piece after some heat. Took everything off mine, manifold, water pump, cam, harmonic, cover, havent broken any bolts surprisingly. take your time with a ratchet and slow when cracking em loose, they come out.
Just bought a 5.2. Hopefully won’t be coming back to this video but who knows!
P.s. you’re funny as fuck, I enjoyed your video
Haaaahaha. Thank you! I’m just doin my best
Dude I’m going thru this now! My truck started overheating an it’s the intake manifold gasket 😞
What's the pn for this dorman kit ?
615-310
Does it matter if I score up the plate with a wire brush? Will it still seal?
The plate gasket is truly horrible. The areas around the bolts will be stuck there like cement, while the sections between will easily pop off with a razor blade. I have used a wire wheel on a bench grinder to clean every plate I have done, and have had no issues. Having said that, someone with engineering experience recently told me that wire wheeling a gasket surface is a big no no because it can remove a very small amount of material from the surface. So I guess I’ll say your mileage may vary. I don’t think a hand brush is a problem.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I’m also redoin the head gaskets. I’m just askin bc this is my first 5.9 I’m sure the 5.2 is basically the same, but just figured id ask for pointers. Ima use gasket maker the actual gasket then apply more to the mating surface.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I just found out about them 3m Roloc Bristle Disc have you used those?
@@jhb9254 I’ve had a couple over the years. Kinda forgot about them. Seem to recall they worked quite well before they disintegrated. The wire wheel (especially on the bench grinder) has been my go-to for so long.
Stupid question, but if the bolt does run through the head, why don't you just take the broken bolt and back it out through the other side? Just unscrew it, that is if it even does. The back side of course I don't know if you'd even have enough room to do that, fat and assuming the break doesn't flay out.
There isn’t any access there to get it out, and if there was, it’s going to be just as rusty and horrible on the back side. The whole reason they break is because they are seized solid in the head - it’s not simply going to spin out. Going out the top is going to be the only way, where you at least have a place to weld on and grab it.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Oh . . . well that sucks balls lol. I'm thinking about investing in a dreaded 2nd gen ram. Trying to backlog myself a nice list of things to look out for, inclusive of the engines. Doing a plenum on those motors definitely doesn't look like a good time. Happy wrenching.
@@nickd.7267 it’s not, but there are much worse jobs out there - many of them on Fords… the transmission is always my biggest worry on a Ram. I love second gens though. I think they’re good trucks.
how long does a job like this normally take assuming you dont run into problems along the way
The biggest problem on these is breaking intake bolts, and they very often break… without that problem, probably 1.5-2 hours? Bolts can add hours.
You will spend alot of time removing the old gasket remnants and getting it cleaned up
Well jeez at that point if you're going to have to do an intake gasket and a timing cover gasket you 🤷 might as well just remove the cam and put some comp cam extreme in might as well get a few extra ponies while you're at it.
I don’t see much point to power modifications while stuck with the stock intake and stock program. To that end, I have a performance EFI Magnum build coming up 😁
2003 as well?
If it’s a 5.9, yes.
Starting issues??? What causes a starter not to turn or click?
Bad starter, bad battery connection, bad neutral safety switch… so many possibilities there. I just replaced a bad ignition switch in a 99 ram that had that exact issue.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I have a new battery and starter I had no issues with the ignition starting it I drove though water bent a rod replacement engine in it now went to start it up nothing
@@user-fm7ol1bi1i It really could be as simple as a poor connection in one of the battery cables. It's simple but I have seen it happen many times. Many different things could cause this. If you can get to it, you could cross the two connections on the starter with a screwdriver or similar. If that works, then you have a wiring, neutral safety, or starter relay issue. If that doesn't work, you're back to battery cables or terminal connections, or your new battery is somehow dead, or your new starter is no good. Did you attach the main ground cable to the new engine?
Where are you located i have a 01 with 5.2 I need done I don't have the tools or the time if your not to far from me and are willing to do it id love to have you check it out
I’m in Aberdeen, WA, and if by chance you are close enough, I’m not going to be available for a few weeks. Between a road trip, impending oral surgery and a back log of work… there’s a lot going on. But that would be cool.
Where are you located
I’m in western Washington state.
Disco Disco
Check my video out, 1st start after all that I mentioned…kegger modding intake , super 44 series flowmaster and hi flo cat…tuner, and as he mentioned idler pulley c tensioner, belt etc .well worth it 214k and goin strong
Sounds good!
Rip the cam out and replace with one with .50 lift instead of .43...... wakes em right up.....
How’s the computer jive with that? As I understand the factory system is pretty limited as far as living with performance parts.
lmao "..in the 90"s" nothings changed brother :p
Well I think they’re better at making gaskets, but worse at engineering engines that don’t blow up. Lol.
@@DeadDodgeGarage ya now everything is just …… plastic
130k on my 94 ram will it still be okay a couple more years without having to replace these gaskets?
It’s not a problem until it’s pulling vacuum through the crank case. It doesn’t seem to depend on mileage either. In the video I describe a check you can do - Unhook and plug off pcv valve / hose, then pull the oil cap and check for vacuum. If you can hear or feel vacuum then the gasket is bad, but if not you’re good to go for now.
Just did one on 2000 5.9 with 70,000 miles
hi just to let you know it's not just the gasket that lets the plate on the bottom of the intake leak, it is that dodgemade that plate out of metal not the same as the intake and they heat up at different temps. that make it two different metalsexpand at different temps when that happens the gasket blows out. how about that?
That could well be a factor, as it is in many engine gasket issues. Just ask Ford… it’s very likely that this is also a factor with the common timing cover gasket failure on the Magnum. However, I don’t necessarily see how dissimilar metals expanding at different rates causes the factory gasket to push out between all of the bolt holes beyond where the pieces even touch - especially in an area that is much cooler than normal engine operating temperature - at least while it is running. It appears to me that the gasket is expanding in that direction. The gasket material has to be a factor.
Really need your help it's my main transportation 98 dodge 5.9 4x4
Chrysler just doesn't know how to build a vehicle period. wish they would just go bankrupt and close already
Well isn’t that cute 🙂