I've actually had pretty good luck with Ford trucks but I'm going through this right now and am here to tell you this guy really knows what he's talking about
I like your witty banter & commentating while showing/teaching the how to aspect of repairs! Comedic repair videos are always better than the monotonous ones! Who says learning can't be entertaining?! I guess that's why most people hate school, but if the classes were as entertaining then people might be more inclined to go! Keep it up, RocknRoll!
You got a subscriber out of me. Like Knute said below, watching a repair video, where the person teaching the audience has a sense of humor, is FAR better than the monotone videos that I usually find. I am a first time Ford owner. Bought a full size 88 Bronco, but it has a motor from a 95 f 150...so its a frankentruck. I've only ever worked on Chevs my whole life....so you takin stabs at how they mount their shit in the dumbest ways, made my fukkin night! Thanks for the video! Can't wait to check your other ones out.
THIS VIDEO HELPED ME FIX MY VAN!!!!!! I have a new to me 1995 E-150 conversion van with 95k miles in really really nice shape and we'll maintained by a previous owner. It ran perfect for a year until December 27th 2014. Then had issues starting. I replaced the fuel filter, not the solution. I bought the manual, more tools, and found UA-cam and Budget Boosting. I am a handy person and an engineer by degree and trade new to fixing cars and Matt inspired in me the confidence to fix it myself. The first symptom was inability to start and keep the engine moving it took 40 plus minutes and near constant jumping to start a dozen different times randomly over a month. Sometimes started perfect. Once started it stayed started. The starter would turn, but the engine would not stay kicked over. I was so close to starting so many times. I knew not to stay on the ignition and knew not to pump the gas, but I did it anyway and was so close to starting so many times. I replaced two starters in the process of multiple starts - found that in another UA-cam video. Changed the ignition coil and idle air control, not the right fix, but helped. I changed the belt another video and belt tensioner pulley, that was a HUGE help to settle movement and noise in the engine, but still idled high and terrible starting if at all. I tried a can of sea foam, then the van would idle at about 3000 rpm, but still had the terrible no start condition at random times. My van would drive at 35 mph down the road without the accelerator being pushed. When I replaced the throttle position sensor using Matt's video it did the trick. Done no issues and very very strong engine again. 5 months later I had the no start issue, I replaced the TPS under warranty and runs great again. I think there is slop between the TPS slot and the pin on the throttle body so it slipped out of position. This time I was more careful to be sure I had better alignment then tightened the TPS down. I learned what a tune up is and replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, dropped the trans mission pan, changed the trans fluid and all because I could now. Thank you for giving me the know-how and confidence! I was thrown back and sad to hear about your fall and am VERY glad to see you on your feet! Your way of explaining is very thorough and fun. Keep up the good work! Glad to be following you
Greg Johnson Outstanding Greg, glad to hear the success of your once not running van to a strong well running machine. Great Job, imagine what a shop would have charged you for all your hard work? You saved a lot of $$.
I love it when I have a chance to learn something new, only this time I get to educate. My project is a 1995 Ford F53 Fleetwood Adventurer Vision 38 foot. OK with all the number out of the way. A couple more things to throw at you, this is a gasser, with the 460 and no cats since they were not required on a heavy duty frame. OK now for the education part. I have been having a problem with acceleration after about the 30 minutes in the wonderful Florida sun. Pull over cool 5 minutes and she is back off to the races. Long story short I hooked up my OBD1 yes they were still using that and it gave me a signal 31 which is a couple of things. But after watching your video I decided if I was going to go in that far I might as well go all the way. Since I have only had the coach a month and only had to dog house up one (today) I thought I have better look at how it is assembled because if it was the same in your video I am to old to be crawling around in the dog house. Well come to find out my 7.5L 460 is mounted the standard way side by side so all I am going to have to do is reach in and change the sensor. then on to the EGR valve and the computer says I will be on the road again. For anyone that has the same coach as I do there is a RECALL for the O2 sensor. FORD said for years they could not get the parts to replace the sensor. BS! when I got the coach the rv center told me about the sensor and how no one has been able to fix the min 24 years since the FORD RECALL! Well they can now IF you take it to a FORD dealer that repairs the coaches, The cost ZERO unless there has been some damage caused by the censor (usually it is the burnt wire going to the O2 censor. So that is my class for today. What we learned here is that you give great instructions for the repair BUT check your engine first - unless you have $700 in 2023 dollars to waste
I have a TPS to do on my grandson's Bronco. Your video was humorous and very well done...I'll have little problem doing the job now that I know the scope of the job...Thank You for your time and effort making this video
Update on my F150 91 5.0 you can read my other comments for my problem...turned out to be the fuel pump relay... It has a low pressure and high pressure on it and the high side was bad 16.99 and I'm going strong...not the fuel pump but relay..so if you have the same thing I was going thru try it before you do alot of unnecessary work and money...hope this helps you keep on the road..
I changed mine last year and don't remember having to remove the while throttle body. Just a few screws and the coolant line and changed it. Easy peasy. It took all of 25 minutes if I remember correctly.
WELL THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE GREAT VIDEO , I SEE WHY THE GARAGE TOLD ME $220.00 BUT HELL WITH YOUR VIDEO EVEN I CAN DO DO THIS JOB . KEEP THE GREAT VIDEOS COMING I'VE BEEN DOING A LOT OF THE JOBS ON THIS OLD 95 FORD 302 / 5.0L MY SELF.
Very helpful! Thanks. My buddie's daughter just bought an 88 f250 with the 460. Running rough and stalling like in your video. Already changed MAP sensor, Fuel pressure regulator, cap, rotor etc. I will pass this info on to them along with the code reading info.
Wow I appreciate this guy. I am the furthest thing from a mechanic so I was ready to do some serious cussin. I watched his video and then had it playing alongside as I switched out the tps on my 86 f150. Ran into the same problems but was ready thanks to the video. Mine was a little easier due too only having 70k miles on the truck. If anyone has any questions hit me up and I’d be more the happy to give further feedback on what the problem was specifically that helped me determine it was the tps without diagnostics
When you have extra parts when the job is done..... it was put back together better. Love it good information 👌 I wouldn't have this guy do any work for myself. But good information 👌
Great stuff Matt! Those hose clamps you lament are actually very easy to release. After taking them off for almost 40 years in my radiator repair shop, I discovered that if, after you remove or loosen the screw, you can take your screwdriver or nut driver and give the clamp a sharp push or hit on the crown. The crown moves down to the clamp releasing the clamp. You have to hit it squarely of it may collapse to the left or right. A squirt of WD-40 in advance can help with a rusted clamp.
+Ron Prestwich Thank you for the clamp advice, I have always disliked those kind of clamps and always replace and upgrade them with the strong screw on hose clamps. WD and liquid wrench are some of my favorite penetrating compounds to make quick work of stubborn rusted on screws, clamps and such.
Im doing the top end of a truck I purchased 1989 f150 5.0.Gonna take all that it doesn't need.Headers is gonna be installed.I wish I could afford the turbo's.LOL This guy is getting the job done the way I do I call this truck and Ford many names.
I used your video to remove the TPS as well, and I encountered the red thread lock, and also had to buy an extractor, and was successful. It helps to cuss Ford for using thread lock, those cheating bastards. One thing I did was to go to ACE hardware and bought two new screws with hex heads, I wasn't about to reuse the same dumb ass Phillips screws knowing that lock tight was still on the threads and down the hole. Great video.
yes, the thread locked screws that round when using a screw driver. Garbage design where 6 point bolt heads would have done the job better. I had gone through the screw rounding many times before so I used that impact driver right from the start.
Gotta love Ford for coming up with bizarre solutions to problems other companies don't seem to have. Thankfully they put their bizarre dual throttle body horizontal on the 4.9 I'm working on. I'm still trying to figure out why they thought it needed a fan for cooling the fuel injectors.
@@Purozamachihue The fan runs so infrequently that it may have just seized up. If the fan turns, check the thermostat that turns it on. I deleted it from my dad's '87 F150, both because it was in the way and because I've read that they have a reputation for starting fires.
I used my 18v dewalt impact screwdriver in order to get the TPS screws loose. I tapped it a little at a time with the trigger, they came right off. Mind you there is always lock tight on factory installed equipment. I usually heat certain things up with a solder iron or a torch (as long as there isn't a melting/fire hazard.
you do know you can just take the bolt out of the throttle body disconnect the throttle line and it comes right out you can access the throttle position sensor really easy you don't have to take all that off it takes me like 5 minutes to change one if that
Thankfully, my 1990 Ford Bronco II has a horizontal mounted throttle body and accessing the TPS is very easy. It's located at 9 o'clock position opposite side of the throttle.
Well shoot...I thought you had to adjust those? This one looked plug in play. Removal of the throttle body isn't always a bad thing. I love showing ppl how dirty stuff gets. I forget what car I was working on or when, but I remember showing a friend the throttle body before it got the cleaning treatment lol good stuff
How bout doing any of these repairs on a Lincoln Mark 8!! Yea....I know.. buried up against the firewall. Thx bud. How are you pal by the way.? Enjoy your vids. Bless you and yours.
Thank you for this video sir. Got code 122 on my 1994 F150. I did everything he did but was sent wrong throttle position sensor. At least I know I was focused on the correct sensor.
Great video! I replaced the original TPS on my 95 F150 5.8 today. I also had to use my impact to get the screws out so I replaced them with hex head screws. I first thought there was light rust on the screws but I think it might have been red thread lock :~\
The coolant line is to keep the throttle body hot when you have zero degree air ripping through it like we do here in New England During the winter otherwise it would freeze open .... Ur fact for the day lol
I have a ford f-250 with a 5.8 L engine which is starting to act up. I only use it in the summer months, but it's starting to stall out when I push on the gas after warming it up a bit. When I checked the codes I get a code 11 along with code 63 and 10. It looks like the TPS may need replacing. thanks for posting your video, as I would have no clue how to go about this.
Yes that was thread lock for sure on those Phillips head screws. If you hit it them with heat and the thread lock with melt long enough to unscrew. You might melt the plastic on the TPS but who cares if you are replacing it.
Had problem with my 88 F150, 302 revving up and down on the idle. After some monkeying around I disconnected the throttle position sensor and the idle air control. Of course the motor won't idle. But I was able to loosen the idle screw, turn it out so the motor would idle. Only problem is in the morning, startup I have to keep the motor running for a few minutes for warm up, after that the truck runs fine once warmed up. Shows these frigin sensors are not really required. So all that would be nice to have is some sort of choke setup for cold starts. But I will get a new TPS soon.
I have an 87 with a 302. Ever since I got it (year and a half ago I think) it's had an idle surge. At first, it would just surge 1,000-500 when at idle (gear or neutral). It was random. Usually when at a stop for more than 20 seconds. Sometimes if I rev it, it'll fall to 600 and jump back up to 1000 and either idle properly at 800 or start surging. When it surged, I could give it a quick tap of the gas and it would quit for a while and then come back. It wouldn't go away unless i let the truck figure it out for itself and not mess with it. After 30sec-one minute, it'll quit and idle good. It would drop low when put into gear also and come back. After some time, the ICM went bad and it wouldn't start so I replaced it. Started up and was good, but the idle surge got somewhat better. Was less frequent and smaller range of rpms. Time went on and it went back to normal surging all the time. Then.. Don't ask me why.. I cut the cat and muffler off. It surged every time it ran. Would not stop. I can't remember if I did something to fix it or if it just quit on its own but if I remember right, it just quit on its own and surged it's "normal" amount. Then my battery went. Replaced it, idle surge got way better and quit dying down in reverse. Then it got worse again. Eventually replaced spark plug wires. Got better.. Then worse again. Replaced wires again (cheap Omnispark wires broke) with MSD with MSD cap&button. Broke a spark plug and had that fixed. Drove to the shop on 7 cylinders (that was rough lol). Ran a lot better. Idle surge got better. Then got worse again. One day it started going down to 400, even 300 rpm at lights, acting like it wanted to die. Would start the truck and it would idle 500-1,500 and rev by itself like there's a person trying to keep it running.. Used to be, I'd pull the connector for the IAC and it would immediately die.. Well now that's not the case. It status sputtering and RUNS at 300 rpm... Barely.. It would eventually die but it ran long enough for me to get in and rev it and keep it going.. Started stalling and such so I replaced the IAC. this changed up that idle surge a little bit. Quit stalling. Idle surge was somewhat normal.. Surge at start up went away.. Well the 500-1500 did. Now the truck waits until it idles down to 1,000 to start surging. And it'll do its 500-1,000 and eventually stop. But now it always does it the second I throw it into PARK. It would have about one idle surge spell in gear and then just stop and wouldn't do it again for a long time.. Until I take it out and back into gear. Now it's doing it way more again, even died on me at work when I threw it in reverse.. Sputtered at 300rpm and died.. Started back but still.. And it's starting to do it more at traffic lights. Would this be the TPS? It still does the thing where if I rev it, it'll die down to 600 and come back. And today when slowing down, it started down shifting funky but can't explain it. One day I tried to get the tires to spin (thanks to messed up breaking blah, my truck didn't want it), and it idled at 1,000 in gear after my attempt and holding it to the floor with the break down enough to keep the truck in place. Same thing at a drive threw one night.. Idled at 1,100 for some reason. Also has a periodic miss. Is usually present when starting the truck. Can only hear it at revs above 1,200 in park. Sometimes it's not there. I gave the engine an upgraded ground straight to the battery along with a new body ground from the battery and that seemed to help for a while but surging came back.
I’m having the same issue iv replaced the relays ran a second ground tryed the map sensor out of my buddy’s truck cleaned the idol control valve.this is next on my list along with o2 sensor and fixing the exposed wire at the clip that goes into the alternator
>**I have an 87 with a 302** >When it surged I could give it a quick tap of the gas and it would quit for a while and then come back. >[did something, got better] Then got worse again. I'm not dying at lights yet but I am getting a lot of these symptoms. Maybe I SHOULD just change the Throttle Position Sensor along with the Idle Air Control. I wonder if removing the cats caused more gremlins because now you don't have a place for an O2 sensor...? BTW If I won the lottery tomorrow, guess what I'd still be driving?
LandYacht hey you all should Try the MAP sensor. Mine sounds like the same shit. I have changed so much crap and the mechanics can’t figure it out. Some guy posted a video I seen and it was the MAP sensor easy to get to. His video is shaky but descriptive ua-cam.com/video/38cyQAnAy9I/v-deo.html
Thank you very much why it's so good so great that guys like you get online and show us how to do this stuff thank you I appreciate it from the bottom of my heart thank you thank you
I believe I am sensing possibly alitte Sarcasm in ur voice when you mention Ford decision to be different & put TPS where its WAY out of harms way LOL I got the same thing , glad I got to See u pleasantly go there first
Good video!! I had a heck of a time trying to get the TPS off my 1990 F-150 4.9. I guess mine was fine because after taking it off to clean it, as I placed it back, the check engine light come out and the idle is 100 rpm's, so I wonder what position to place it is 6 o'clock or 9. Thanks
Love this guy, he really looks and acts like the world is against him and he's getting ready to LOSE it at any second. I haven't stopped laughing. From 16:23 to 16:36 he almost lost it. 16:31 says it all, LMAO
AFAIK the coolant lines are just for anti icing in the winter and could probably just be looped together if the truck won't be in a below freezing place.
You are dead wrong about the 460's having the same TPS configuation . I own a 1988 Ford F250 having the side to side intake with the TPS on the side of the intake. So when you state your video covers all models that is incorrect. However would be pleased to see a video on my models configuration, Thanks James
The first time I did this, years ago, I did it with the throttle body still attached and used a 90 degree screw driver and a telescoping mirror ...WHAT A BITCH ! (Pre-internet days and we were on a road trip in the desert)
I like all the sarcastic undertones.... Soldier on.... I hope this helps my truck run better.... won't even get out of it's own way at the moment... Thanx.
Get a Snap-on scanner from E-Bay. Get the cartridges, adapters, manuals, and 120 volt adapter and Battery Pak. Get the 12 volt adapter to hook it up to the battery and adapter. It can test TPS, Ox.sensors, MAF, ISC, fuel pressure, oil pressure, fuel trim, RPM's and much more!
This is a nightmare type of job. Once you go to moving all those old parts like the clips and rubbers start to break. You need to buy a throttle bottle gasket that you have to order because they no longer sell them in the store. Thanks for the video.
Absolutely fantastic video! I am also having problems with my 1992 Ford F150 5.0 (8 cyl) . Erratic idle, stalls, hesitates, stumbles and finally dies when coming to s stop! I changed the IAC valve first as that seemed like the easiest attempt at a solution. Also changed the PCV valve but unfortunately, nothing has changed. So..................it looks as if I am going to be forced to try a go at the TPS next.
+Harry Alleva Also do not rule out the MAP sensor, senses vacuum increase in intake manifold and adjusts fuel curve accordingly. TPS and MAP sensors are very important on engines such as SBF fuel injected engines without a MAF sensor.
+Budget Boosting Thank you for your reply. I have an MAP sensor on order and I should have it some time next week, or two. Hopefully that does the trick. If not, the TPS will have to be next(!)
+Harry Alleva Fuel injected engines are so much harder to troubleshoot than carbureted since all the sensors work together providing input to the PCM for it to adjust fuel, timing and rapid changes to these many times per second.
+Budget Boosting Any day now the MAP sensor should arrive and I will replace my old one with the new one. I hope that does the trick because the weather is starting to get cold in my area to work outside and if I have to tackle the TPS next that is going to take substantially more time.
+Harry Alleva You should quit changing parts until you know what is wrong. Most replacement parts are lower quality than the originals. Also, when you change a part you are making it harder to diagnose the real problem. Only replace a part if it fails a published test procedure. What codes are you getting? You may just have a bad ground connection or a weak battery. Buy a Haynes with the red cover or the older blue cover. Unfortunately the newer blue covers eliminated a lot of the EFI info and wiring diagrams. Page 12-63 should say "92-later F/Bronco diagram 13 of 13. If it does you have the older book which is good. If it does not even have a page 12-63 it is the newer book which is not worth having except as a crutch until you can get your hands on the older book.
I also have a 95 E-150, but I have no car repair skills at all. When the shop told me I had a bad TPS and they'd install a new one for $200, I thought "just a sensor? how hard could that be? I'll just swap it out myself." A week later I finally have the throttle body out and got the old TPS off. I noticed that the little groves inside the new sensor are about 1/16 of an inch off from where the old one was. It's just enough difference to make the sensor difficult to screw back on. Is that going to cause problems for my van, or is there a way to adjust it so it sits flush? Thanks for the helpful videos! Very glad to see you are recovering well!
+SmithyJester There may be a piece from the old sensor that broke off and is still stuck to the throttle body. It could also be the wrong sensor. There is a rotating assembly inside the sensor that can separate and get stuck to the throttle body making it difficult to mount the new one.
Hi Matt, I sense your frustration on the TPS sensor location.........count your blessings that you didn't have to change it on a 1995 E-250 5.8L.......it stinks! The TB coolant hose leaked right on the TPS and sent a fault code. That makes the third one I've changed out for failures. I would like to ask you...... if you may know the location of the ABS diagnostic connector (Blk/Org wire) on a 1995 Ford E-250 5.8L gas van. Features front wheel ABS sensors and RABS sensor on the differential housing. I've asked 10 or more experts and no one knows where it actually is.........so I can pull the ABS fault codes. Thanks, Larry Huntington Beach, Ca.
Majority of all of them that are efi 302/351 have this. It's f150s also. That looks just like my 94 f150 5.8. No they didn't do that on the 460 for whatever reason and I'll never understand the high rise manifold. It makes things on the left side looking at the engine a lot harder to do. I could be wrong but I think in 86 they started fitting a few of their trucks with efi. I saw an 86 bronco with efi at the junkyard one day. But on the same note, they still had some 87s that were carbed. maybe even 88 and so on?
I like Ford's newer intake manifolds, you can access things much better than having to remove half the intake manifold to access fuel injectors and other parts under there.
I have a n 88 bronco and I am going threw the same shit. It's a plow rig only that I am going to attempt to get on the road so I can use it for a winter beater. In taxachusetts where everything is illegal. I have the throttle body off my 5.0 (not all the way) and I am cleaning out the intake a little bit because the truck doesn't idle for shit and stalls. Lots of black sludge in the intake so my guess is that I need to get it as clean as I can and then change the sensor and probably get a new EGR valve or block this one off. I don't want to loose power but I also don't want to keep putting sludge in the intake. It is 31 years of crap though, so I will change stuff first and then block shit off later if it doesn't help.
I have a 94 Ranger 3.0 the same thing. When I pulled the EGR it was stopped up and where it went in the intake the same way. I cleaned out all I could and run Seafoam through it changed oil & fuel filters etc and it's better. I'll probably have to pull the intake. It has 240,000 on it and still runs good the air everything works good so I can't complain. Good luck. Thanks for the video
Hey I have a 1990 f 150 308 it will start if I hold it to the floor but if I let off any at all it will stop and when it starts it run a slow run I've put all kinds of parts on it and still won't run right help please
Yes hes breaking every rule I have made for my self but idk if I like him or hate him but if he puts it all back together no issues then I'm happy at 7:54 we will find out
my 89 bronco dies when i come to a complete stop or almost to a complete stop. ive talked to alot of people and they say its the sensor and i need to probably clean it. any other advice you might have?
I've actually had pretty good luck with Ford trucks but I'm going through this right now and am here to tell you this guy really knows what he's talking about
I like your witty banter & commentating while showing/teaching the how to aspect of repairs! Comedic repair videos are always better than the monotonous ones! Who says learning can't be entertaining?! I guess that's why most people hate school, but if the classes were as entertaining then people might be more inclined to go! Keep it up, RocknRoll!
You got a subscriber out of me. Like Knute said below, watching a repair video, where the person teaching the audience has a sense of humor, is FAR better than the monotone videos that I usually find. I am a first time Ford owner. Bought a full size 88 Bronco, but it has a motor from a 95 f 150...so its a frankentruck. I've only ever worked on Chevs my whole life....so you takin stabs at how they mount their shit in the dumbest ways, made my fukkin night! Thanks for the video! Can't wait to check your other ones out.
THIS VIDEO HELPED ME FIX MY VAN!!!!!! I have a new to me 1995 E-150 conversion van with 95k miles in really really nice shape and we'll maintained by a previous owner. It ran perfect for a year until December 27th 2014. Then had issues starting. I replaced the fuel filter, not the solution. I bought the manual, more tools, and found UA-cam and Budget Boosting. I am a handy person and an engineer by degree and trade new to fixing cars and Matt inspired in me the confidence to fix it myself. The first symptom was inability to start and keep the engine moving it took 40 plus minutes and near constant jumping to start a dozen different times randomly over a month. Sometimes started perfect. Once started it stayed started. The starter would turn, but the engine would not stay kicked over. I was so close to starting so many times. I knew not to stay on the ignition and knew not to pump the gas, but I did it anyway and was so close to starting so many times. I replaced two starters in the process of multiple starts - found that in another UA-cam video. Changed the ignition coil and idle air control, not the right fix, but helped. I changed the belt another video and belt tensioner pulley, that was a HUGE help to settle movement and noise in the engine, but still idled high and terrible starting if at all. I tried a can of sea foam, then the van would idle at about 3000 rpm, but still had the terrible no start condition at random times. My van would drive at 35 mph down the road without the accelerator being pushed. When I replaced the throttle position sensor using Matt's video it did the trick. Done no issues and very very strong engine again. 5 months later I had the no start issue, I replaced the TPS under warranty and runs great again. I think there is slop between the TPS slot and the pin on the throttle body so it slipped out of position. This time I was more careful to be sure I had better alignment then tightened the TPS down. I learned what a tune up is and replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, dropped the trans mission pan, changed the trans fluid and all because I could now. Thank you for giving me the know-how and confidence! I was thrown back and sad to hear about your fall and am VERY glad to see you on your feet! Your way of explaining is very thorough and fun. Keep up the good work! Glad to be following you
Greg Johnson Outstanding Greg, glad to hear the success of your once not running van to a strong well running machine. Great Job, imagine what a shop would have charged you for all your hard work? You saved a lot of $$.
Vegan Shemp scope out the throttle body on the 5.0, I would assume it's the same. The Haynes manual is your friend.
I love it when I have a chance to learn something new, only this time I get to educate. My project is a 1995 Ford F53 Fleetwood Adventurer Vision 38 foot. OK with all the number out of the way. A couple more things to throw at you, this is a gasser, with the 460 and no cats since they were not required on a heavy duty frame.
OK now for the education part. I have been having a problem with acceleration after about the 30 minutes in the wonderful Florida sun. Pull over cool 5 minutes and she is back off to the races. Long story short I hooked up my OBD1 yes they were still using that and it gave me a signal 31 which is a couple of things. But after watching your video I decided if I was going to go in that far I might as well go all the way. Since I have only had the coach a month and only had to dog house up one (today) I thought I have better look at how it is assembled because if it was the same in your video I am to old to be crawling around in the dog house. Well come to find out my 7.5L 460 is mounted the standard way side by side so all I am going to have to do is reach in and change the sensor. then on to the EGR valve and the computer says I will be on the road again.
For anyone that has the same coach as I do there is a RECALL for the O2 sensor. FORD said for years they could not get the parts to replace the sensor. BS! when I got the coach the rv center told me about the sensor and how no one has been able to fix the min 24 years since the FORD RECALL! Well they can now IF you take it to a FORD dealer that repairs the coaches, The cost ZERO unless there has been some damage caused by the censor (usually it is the burnt wire going to the O2 censor. So that is my class for today. What we learned here is that you give great instructions for the repair BUT check your engine first - unless you have $700 in 2023 dollars to waste
I have a TPS to do on my grandson's Bronco. Your video was humorous and very well done...I'll have little problem doing the job now that I know the scope of the job...Thank You for your time and effort making this video
Update on my F150 91 5.0 you can read my other comments for my problem...turned out to be the fuel pump relay... It has a low pressure and high pressure on it and the high side was bad 16.99 and I'm going strong...not the fuel pump but relay..so if you have the same thing I was going thru try it before you do alot of unnecessary work and money...hope this helps you keep on the road..
+Bri Pri Outstanding, glad you found the problem and thank you for the suggestions.
Thank you sir! My problem is now fixed. I did the TPS, IAC, and a deep clean of the throttle body! Your video definitely helped!
I changed mine last year and don't remember having to remove the while throttle body. Just a few screws and the coolant line and changed it. Easy peasy. It took all of 25 minutes if I remember correctly.
WELL THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE GREAT VIDEO , I SEE WHY THE GARAGE TOLD ME $220.00 BUT HELL WITH YOUR VIDEO EVEN I CAN DO DO THIS JOB . KEEP THE GREAT VIDEOS COMING I'VE BEEN DOING A LOT OF THE JOBS ON THIS OLD 95 FORD 302 / 5.0L MY SELF.
Very helpful! Thanks. My buddie's daughter just bought an 88 f250 with the 460. Running rough and stalling like in your video. Already changed MAP sensor, Fuel pressure regulator, cap, rotor etc. I will pass this info on to them along with the code reading info.
That did the trick. They are up and running now. Thanks again
How did the truck run before ? When taking off?
@@fred3370 theirs was sputtering and stalling out. Wouldn't even get out of the neighborhood
Wow I appreciate this guy. I am the furthest thing from a mechanic so I was ready to do some serious cussin. I watched his video and then had it playing alongside as I switched out the tps on my 86 f150. Ran into the same problems but was ready thanks to the video. Mine was a little easier due too only having 70k miles on the truck. If anyone has any questions hit me up and I’d be more the happy to give further feedback on what the problem was specifically that helped me determine it was the tps without diagnostics
My husband is going to have fun with my 93 Bronco he has to change the same part plus the EGR valve 😊
long video but INCREDIBLY informative! I'll need this info for my 90 F150 XLT Lariat.
When you have extra parts when the job is done..... it was put back together better. Love it good information 👌 I wouldn't have this guy do any work for myself. But good information 👌
And a mechanics modo is. We're not happy, until you're not happy 🙂
thanks for the video, I'm glad you was letting us know how hard it was. A lot of us would be using foul language.
we all have our vices, man that was priceless almost fell of the chair. lol good one. thanks for the videos
Great stuff Matt! Those hose clamps you lament are actually very easy to release. After taking them off for almost 40 years in my radiator repair shop, I discovered that if, after you remove or loosen the screw, you can take your screwdriver or nut driver and give the clamp a sharp push or hit on the crown. The crown moves down to the clamp releasing the clamp. You have to hit it squarely of it may collapse to the left or right. A squirt of WD-40 in advance can help with a rusted clamp.
+Ron Prestwich Thank you for the clamp advice, I have always disliked those kind of clamps and always replace and upgrade them with the strong screw on hose clamps. WD and liquid wrench are some of my favorite penetrating compounds to make quick work of stubborn rusted on screws, clamps and such.
Im doing the top end of a truck I purchased 1989 f150 5.0.Gonna take all that it doesn't need.Headers is gonna be installed.I wish I could afford the turbo's.LOL This guy is getting the job done the way I do I call this truck and Ford many names.
Its funny, the engineers never have to work on them, just design them to be difficult for bonuses from the factory.
Thank You Sir, knowledge IS power and you just gave me the power to save over $500. to replace a $30. part. Impact Screwdriver $9. at Harbor Freight
I used your video to remove the TPS as well, and I encountered the red thread lock, and also had to buy an extractor, and was successful. It helps to cuss Ford for using thread lock, those cheating bastards. One thing I did was to go to ACE hardware and bought two new screws with hex heads, I wasn't about to reuse the same dumb ass Phillips screws knowing that lock tight was still on the threads and down the hole. Great video.
yes, the thread locked screws that round when using a screw driver. Garbage design where 6 point bolt heads would have done the job better. I had gone through the screw rounding many times before so I used that impact driver right from the start.
Gotta love Ford for coming up with bizarre solutions to problems other companies don't seem to have. Thankfully they put their bizarre dual throttle body horizontal on the 4.9 I'm working on. I'm still trying to figure out why they thought it needed a fan for cooling the fuel injectors.
same goes for the 460 efi from that era it had a horizontally mounted tps
That fan on my 1987 bronco stop working any idea wat was that problem
@@Purozamachihue The fan runs so infrequently that it may have just seized up. If the fan turns, check the thermostat that turns it on. I deleted it from my dad's '87 F150, both because it was in the way and because I've read that they have a reputation for starting fires.
@@Darwinpasta ok thank u very much
lol he just sounds like he’s super angry but not trying to show it 😂
He is awesome ! Love his cynical and realistic view ! This guy is a diamond !
Fr. Only time he seemed happy was when he showed his"filter mod" lol
Lol
I’m not so sure he isnt
The 300/4.9 is similar but it is easier to get to, Thanks Man
Love and appreciate the video! I've got the same exact truck and several issues, thank you regardless this video being 6 years old.
I used my 18v dewalt impact screwdriver in order to get the TPS screws loose. I tapped it a little at a time with the trigger, they came right off. Mind you there is always lock tight on factory installed equipment. I usually heat certain things up with a solder iron or a torch (as long as there isn't a melting/fire hazard.
HopeAnd Greg that’s the way I do it at work
Cruise control cable. Thanks for identifying that second cable. I didn’t know what it was
Great video, Nice Marine Corp Green T-shirt. Working on a 4.0 Ford Ranger and not getting any reading or flashing from EEC.
you do know you can just take the bolt out of the throttle body disconnect the throttle line and it comes right out you can access the throttle position sensor really easy you don't have to take all that off it takes me like 5 minutes to change one if that
Yeah, but can you do a great deep cleaning of the throttle body like he did?
Hmm!!
How do you get to the 2 screws holding it onto the throttle body without taking it off?
@@grandpahonestyguy8978 b
Thankfully, my 1990 Ford Bronco II has a horizontal mounted throttle body and accessing the TPS is very easy. It's located at 9 o'clock position opposite side of the throttle.
Very good work as allways
Well shoot...I thought you had to adjust those? This one looked plug in play. Removal of the throttle body isn't always a bad thing. I love showing ppl how dirty stuff gets. I forget what car I was working on or when, but I remember showing a friend the throttle body before it got the cleaning treatment lol good stuff
How bout doing any of these repairs on a Lincoln Mark 8!! Yea....I know.. buried up against the firewall. Thx bud. How are you pal by the way.? Enjoy your vids. Bless you and yours.
Thank you for this video sir.
Got code 122 on my 1994 F150. I did everything he did but was sent wrong throttle position sensor. At least I know I was focused on the correct sensor.
Great video! I replaced the original TPS on my 95 F150 5.8 today. I also had to use my impact to get the screws out so I replaced them with hex head screws. I first thought there was light rust on the screws but I think it might have been red thread lock :~\
with stubborn bolts i also replace them with allen head and even a small lock washer
The coolant line is to keep the throttle body hot when you have zero degree air ripping through it like we do here in New England During the winter otherwise it would freeze open .... Ur fact for the day lol
Actually it’s to cool the EGR solenoid but I’m sure it helps with that too
I have a ford f-250 with a 5.8 L engine which is starting to act up. I only use it in the summer months, but it's starting to stall out when I push on the gas after warming it up a bit. When I checked the codes I get a code 11 along with code 63 and 10.
It looks like the TPS may need replacing. thanks for posting your video, as I would have no clue how to go about this.
At least y'all have room I'm working on an e-150. Suckers packed in there pretty good
Bro- you’re a godsend! Ty for the post!
Thank you thank you. I need to get my throttle body off an old econoline and couldn't find anything about it. This is the same.
Same
Yes that was thread lock for sure on those Phillips head screws. If you hit it them with heat and the thread lock with melt long enough to unscrew. You might melt the plastic on the TPS but who cares if you are replacing it.
Had problem with my 88 F150, 302 revving up and down on the idle. After some monkeying around I disconnected the throttle position sensor and the idle air control. Of course the motor won't idle. But I was able to loosen the idle screw, turn it out so the motor would idle. Only problem is in the morning, startup I have to keep the motor running for a few minutes for warm up, after that the truck runs fine once warmed up. Shows these frigin sensors are not really required. So all that would be nice to have is some sort of choke setup for cold starts. But I will get a new TPS soon.
I have an 87 with a 302. Ever since I got it (year and a half ago I think) it's had an idle surge. At first, it would just surge 1,000-500 when at idle (gear or neutral). It was random. Usually when at a stop for more than 20 seconds. Sometimes if I rev it, it'll fall to 600 and jump back up to 1000 and either idle properly at 800 or start surging. When it surged, I could give it a quick tap of the gas and it would quit for a while and then come back. It wouldn't go away unless i let the truck figure it out for itself and not mess with it. After 30sec-one minute, it'll quit and idle good. It would drop low when put into gear also and come back.
After some time, the ICM went bad and it wouldn't start so I replaced it. Started up and was good, but the idle surge got somewhat better. Was less frequent and smaller range of rpms. Time went on and it went back to normal surging all the time. Then.. Don't ask me why.. I cut the cat and muffler off. It surged every time it ran. Would not stop. I can't remember if I did something to fix it or if it just quit on its own but if I remember right, it just quit on its own and surged it's "normal" amount. Then my battery went. Replaced it, idle surge got way better and quit dying down in reverse. Then it got worse again. Eventually replaced spark plug wires. Got better.. Then worse again. Replaced wires again (cheap Omnispark wires broke) with MSD with MSD cap&button. Broke a spark plug and had that fixed. Drove to the shop on 7 cylinders (that was rough lol). Ran a lot better. Idle surge got better. Then got worse again. One day it started going down to 400, even 300 rpm at lights, acting like it wanted to die. Would start the truck and it would idle 500-1,500 and rev by itself like there's a person trying to keep it running.. Used to be, I'd pull the connector for the IAC and it would immediately die.. Well now that's not the case. It status sputtering and RUNS at 300 rpm... Barely.. It would eventually die but it ran long enough for me to get in and rev it and keep it going.. Started stalling and such so I replaced the IAC. this changed up that idle surge a little bit. Quit stalling. Idle surge was somewhat normal.. Surge at start up went away.. Well the 500-1500 did. Now the truck waits until it idles down to 1,000 to start surging. And it'll do its 500-1,000 and eventually stop. But now it always does it the second I throw it into PARK. It would have about one idle surge spell in gear and then just stop and wouldn't do it again for a long time.. Until I take it out and back into gear. Now it's doing it way more again, even died on me at work when I threw it in reverse.. Sputtered at 300rpm and died.. Started back but still.. And it's starting to do it more at traffic lights. Would this be the TPS? It still does the thing where if I rev it, it'll die down to 600 and come back. And today when slowing down, it started down shifting funky but can't explain it. One day I tried to get the tires to spin (thanks to messed up breaking blah, my truck didn't want it), and it idled at 1,000 in gear after my attempt and holding it to the floor with the break down enough to keep the truck in place. Same thing at a drive threw one night.. Idled at 1,100 for some reason. Also has a periodic miss. Is usually present when starting the truck. Can only hear it at revs above 1,200 in park. Sometimes it's not there. I gave the engine an upgraded ground straight to the battery along with a new body ground from the battery and that seemed to help for a while but surging came back.
LandYacht I had a problem kind of like this once with my 97 f250 with 351 and it was a relay
I’m having the same issue iv replaced the relays ran a second ground tryed the map sensor out of my buddy’s truck cleaned the idol control valve.this is next on my list along with o2 sensor and fixing the exposed wire at the clip that goes into the alternator
>**I have an 87 with a 302**
>When it surged I could give it a quick tap of the gas and it would quit for a while and then come back.
>[did something, got better] Then got worse again.
I'm not dying at lights yet but I am getting a lot of these symptoms. Maybe I SHOULD just change the Throttle Position Sensor along with the Idle Air Control. I wonder if removing the cats caused more gremlins because now you don't have a place for an O2 sensor...?
BTW If I won the lottery tomorrow, guess what I'd still be driving?
LandYacht hey you all should Try the MAP sensor. Mine sounds like the same shit. I have changed so much crap and the mechanics can’t figure it out. Some guy posted a video I seen and it was the MAP sensor easy to get to. His video is shaky but descriptive ua-cam.com/video/38cyQAnAy9I/v-deo.html
Thank you very much why it's so good so great that guys like you get online and show us how to do this stuff thank you I appreciate it from the bottom of my heart thank you thank you
That was good information. Thank you. Excellent enthusiasm.
I believe I am sensing possibly alitte Sarcasm in ur voice when you mention Ford decision to be different & put TPS where its WAY out of harms way LOL I got the same thing , glad I got to See u pleasantly go there first
thank you for watching, the sarcasm is mostly for entertainment, although I meant that somethings on these vehicles is in a P.I.T.A place.
Thank goodness they put it the right way the next yr ….I think this may be the problem on my 90 f250
Good video!! I had a heck of a time trying to get the TPS off my 1990 F-150 4.9. I guess mine was fine because after taking it off to clean it, as I placed it back, the check engine light come out and the idle is 100 rpm's, so I wonder what position to place it is 6 o'clock or 9. Thanks
Love this guy, he really looks and acts like the world is against him and he's getting ready to LOSE it at any second. I haven't stopped laughing. From 16:23 to 16:36 he almost lost it. 16:31 says it all, LMAO
Excellent, thx.
Great video you sound like I do when I work on stuff😆 I have the 351 w nothing's easy 😎
Thanks for this tutorial man.. saved me a lot of money..
Do you need the cooling lines? Can you block it off?
... Wait... How did they position the throttle and throttle sensor again? I missed it the first 8 times. ;)
Good video thanks
AFAIK the coolant lines are just for anti icing in the winter and could probably just be looped together if the truck won't be in a below freezing place.
All that for the T.P.S makes u think what were they on when they made part ?
mccrackenphillip money! They want you to take it to a Ford dealer so they can make money and you not do it at home
Thanks so much very helpful do have any transmission tune up, video?
You are dead wrong about the 460's having the same TPS configuation . I own a 1988 Ford F250 having the side to side intake with the TPS on the side of the intake. So when you state your video covers all models that is incorrect. However would be pleased to see a video on my models configuration, Thanks James
I wish you would have shown how to put it back on. I’m a noob and need step by step. Lots of tape and pens. Lol. My two “86 broncos need attention. 👍😊
what would cause a very high idle and back fire 94 f150,even after replacing both tips and iac?
The first time I did this, years ago, I did it with the throttle body still attached and used a 90 degree screw driver and a telescoping mirror ...WHAT A BITCH !
(Pre-internet days and we were on a road trip in the desert)
+Rick OBrien yes that is really hard. I remember even with the throttle body off, the screws were tight and stubborn.
Thats exactly what i was about to do then i did this just to see if there was an easier way to do it
Got to love Ford, Ford is for tough guys who are not afraid to work on!"life is a challenge " Ford is built Ford Tough great attitude lol.
Fords are like a labrador strong and reliable and fiercely loyal Buuuut every now and they they remind you they are a lab/Ford
at 04:23 on the video. What are those small vaccum lines next to the IAC for?? mine where off and I plugged them back in but what are they for ??
Thanks great job explaining
Great videos, thankyou
well the bottom left mounting bolt on mine 7:16 is rounded out and theres a metal tab there so thats cool
The throttle body on my1996 F250 with the 7.5 is mounted horizontally . Lucky me😄
I like all the sarcastic undertones.... Soldier on.... I hope this helps my truck run better.... won't even get out of it's own way at the moment... Thanx.
My 1995 E-150 is hard to start when hot, takes a few cranks. It starts right away when cold. How do I test the TPS? Could that be my problem?
Thanks for the info, excellent videos
Get a Snap-on scanner from E-Bay. Get the cartridges, adapters, manuals, and 120 volt adapter and Battery Pak. Get the 12 volt adapter to hook it up to the battery and adapter. It can test TPS, Ox.sensors, MAF, ISC, fuel pressure, oil pressure, fuel trim, RPM's and much more!
Marty, is that an OBD I scanner?
What is the other sensor?And can the TPS cause a transmission problem?
This is a nightmare type of job. Once you go to moving all those old parts like the clips and rubbers start to break. You need to buy a throttle bottle gasket that you have to order because they no longer sell them in the store. Thanks for the video.
Absolutely fantastic video! I am also having problems with my 1992 Ford F150 5.0 (8 cyl) . Erratic idle, stalls, hesitates, stumbles and finally dies when coming to s stop! I changed the IAC valve first as that seemed like the easiest attempt at a solution. Also changed the PCV valve but unfortunately, nothing has changed. So..................it looks as if I am going to be forced to try a go at the TPS next.
+Harry Alleva Also do not rule out the MAP sensor, senses vacuum increase in intake manifold and adjusts fuel curve accordingly. TPS and MAP sensors are very important on engines such as SBF fuel injected engines without a MAF sensor.
+Budget Boosting Thank you for your reply. I have an MAP sensor on order and I should have it some time next week, or two. Hopefully that does the trick. If not, the TPS will have to be next(!)
+Harry Alleva Fuel injected engines are so much harder to troubleshoot than carbureted since all the sensors work together providing input to the PCM for it to adjust fuel, timing and rapid changes to these many times per second.
+Budget Boosting Any day now the MAP sensor should arrive and I will replace my old one with the new one. I hope that does the trick because the weather is starting to get cold in my area to work outside and if I have to tackle the TPS next that is going to take substantially more time.
+Harry Alleva You should quit changing parts until you know what is wrong. Most replacement parts are lower quality than the originals. Also, when you change a part you are making it harder to diagnose the real problem. Only replace a part if it fails a published test procedure. What codes are you getting? You may just have a bad ground connection or a weak battery. Buy a Haynes with the red cover or the older blue cover. Unfortunately the newer blue covers eliminated a lot of the EFI info and wiring diagrams. Page 12-63 should say "92-later F/Bronco diagram 13 of 13. If it does you have the older book which is good. If it does not even have a page 12-63 it is the newer book which is not worth having except as a crutch until you can get your hands on the older book.
I also have a 95 E-150, but I have no car repair skills at all. When the shop told me I had a bad TPS and they'd install a new one for $200, I thought "just a sensor? how hard could that be? I'll just swap it out myself." A week later I finally have the throttle body out and got the old TPS off. I noticed that the little groves inside the new sensor are about 1/16 of an inch off from where the old one was. It's just enough difference to make the sensor difficult to screw back on. Is that going to cause problems for my van, or is there a way to adjust it so it sits flush?
Thanks for the helpful videos! Very glad to see you are recovering well!
+SmithyJester There may be a piece from the old sensor that broke off and is still stuck to the throttle body. It could also be the wrong sensor. There is a rotating assembly inside the sensor that can separate and get stuck to the throttle body making it difficult to mount the new one.
Best vid ever 😂 I learned and laughed
You make it look easy have fun with it 👍🏻✌🏻😀
Pretty sure that coolant line to the throttle body is not to keep it cool but to keep it hot to help atomize the fuel better.
So dramatic lol... looks pretty simple to me... thanks for the upload and info. Nice gloves
Hi Matt, I sense your frustration on the TPS sensor location.........count your blessings that you didn't have
to change it on a 1995 E-250 5.8L.......it stinks! The TB coolant hose leaked right on the TPS and sent a fault code.
That makes the third one I've changed out for failures.
I would like to ask you...... if you may know the location of the ABS diagnostic connector (Blk/Org wire) on a 1995 Ford E-250 5.8L gas van.
Features front wheel ABS sensors and RABS sensor on the differential housing.
I've asked 10 or more experts and no one knows where it actually is.........so I can pull the ABS fault codes.
Thanks,
Larry
Huntington Beach, Ca.
Majority of all of them that are efi 302/351 have this. It's f150s also. That looks just like my 94 f150 5.8. No they didn't do that on the 460 for whatever reason and I'll never understand the high rise manifold. It makes things on the left side looking at the engine a lot harder to do. I could be wrong but I think in 86 they started fitting a few of their trucks with efi. I saw an 86 bronco with efi at the junkyard one day. But on the same note, they still had some 87s that were carbed. maybe even 88 and so on?
I like Ford's newer intake manifolds, you can access things much better than having to remove half the intake manifold to access fuel injectors and other parts under there.
Nice regal!
I have a n 88 bronco and I am going threw the same shit. It's a plow rig only that I am going to attempt to get on the road so I can use it for a winter beater. In taxachusetts where everything is illegal. I have the throttle body off my 5.0 (not all the way) and I am cleaning out the intake a little bit because the truck doesn't idle for shit and stalls. Lots of black sludge in the intake so my guess is that I need to get it as clean as I can and then change the sensor and probably get a new EGR valve or block this one off. I don't want to loose power but I also don't want to keep putting sludge in the intake. It is 31 years of crap though, so I will change stuff first and then block shit off later if it doesn't help.
I have a 94 Ranger 3.0 the same thing. When I pulled the EGR it was stopped up and where it went in the intake the same way. I cleaned out all I could and run Seafoam through it changed oil & fuel filters etc and it's better. I'll probably have to pull the intake.
It has 240,000 on it and still runs good the air everything works good so I can't complain.
Good luck.
Thanks for the video
Great video brother! God bless!
When you replaced it, did you have to do any relearning procedures for the throttle body?
Big help brother. Thank you
John Smith anytime, thank you for watching.
Thank you for the video sir
great video!
thanks brooooo..... god bless you ......
I have a 1987 bronco full size and having issues with all fuel injectors staying open. Any help with finding the issue.
at least the 460 efi from that era is horizontally mounted
Thanks for a good video and fun remarks.
A real tech who gets it across.
How do you know what is the correct position to install the new sensor. You don't cover that!
you use paint to mark an outline of the old one... then match it to the old outline with the new one
What type of bolts does the original TPS use?
Great video, does anyone know how this might go on an econoline?
Hey I have a 1990 f 150 308 it will start if I hold it to the floor but if I let off any at all it will stop and when it starts it run a slow run I've put all kinds of parts on it and still won't run right help please
Freaking hilarious and frustrating at the same time 😂
Yes hes breaking every rule I have made for my self but idk if I like him or hate him but if he puts it all back together no issues then I'm happy at 7:54 we will find out
Very good video sr good day
very informative.thanks
my 89 bronco dies when i come to a complete stop or almost to a complete stop. ive talked to alot of people and they say its the sensor and i need to probably clean it. any other advice you might have?
brennonano I have a 95 and mine did something similar I replaced the egr valve and an other sensor
This sounds like one of two sensors, Throttle position sensor or Idle air control sensor.
Or your MAP sensor, cheap and easy fix.
I have an 87 doing the exact same thing? What did yours end up being?