Thanks for the video. I did this on the 2014 Subaru Forester 2.5 Liter Touring with EyeSight. I was able to remove and replace the hose with my hand. The old PCV valve was plugged up with oil, so good thing I replaced it. I tightened the new PCV valve close to 10 ft. lbs. of torque.
Excellent video - Use of hose pliers would have saved me some $$$. I somehow broke a couple of wires from the connector trying to remove the hose from the PCV valve with vice grips. The dealership charged $350 to locate and repair the wires with no guarantee or $1400 to replace the harness which run through the engine.
Hi my pcv valve won't come off, it looks like it's stuck, I tried different sockets and use all my strength. I show it to a mechanic and he couldn't take it off, he doesn't want use an impact and break something. It looks like there is a sealant or paste around the valve, I used WD-40 but no luck yet. Any idea ?
Hello. First off - Do NOT Heat it. Combustible vapors are inside the engine / crankcase at all times. NO open flame HEAT. What you CAN TRY - is soaking it over night with WD-40 (like you did) and can try other penetrants as well. PB blaster works well, too. May have to spray it down 2-3 x a day for a day or two. Because if someone put a sealant / paste on it - the penetrant can help break it down. This is why I always use a smidge of liquid teflon.. as it never gets hard like a glue or RTV. Try a 6 sided socket for added grip (12 point is ok but more likely to slip) and use a really long 3/8 ratchet on a 12” extension. That gives leverage. You wanna just give it a good “snap” pull on that ratchet to get ‘er free! You can even use 1/2 tools. A quick blip on an impact gun can even help but is risky, as it may snap the valve off - right at threads and then you’d need an easy out to remove thread patch. They also sell spray FREEZE CANS. You spray a frozen bolt or part and it FREEZES PART. Then it may break free. Opposite of using heat but can work.. Hope this helps ya!
Same thing just happened to me, I put a 19mm impact socke with a 1/2 drive 2 foot breaker bar and it would not budge. I will try soaking multiple days with PB blaster, and try in 3-4 more days, and when the engine is warm. If that doesn't work, I may get the freez cane that @automotiveEZ suggests
Pipe threads are tapered (like a cone), so they won't bottom out. I made this mistake before by overtightening on a different car and broke my oil pump housing in two. Just turn until tight.
Thanks for the video. I did this on the 2014 Subaru Forester 2.5 Liter Touring with EyeSight. I was able to remove and replace the hose with my hand. The old PCV valve was plugged up with oil, so good thing I replaced it. I tightened the new PCV valve close to 10 ft. lbs. of torque.
Sounds great. And sounds like you did a thorough job! Thx for comments
Excellent video - Use of hose pliers and addition of a slight amount of silicone line to assist in hose replacement are nice touches!
Thanks Robert. Appreciated :)
Excellent video - Use of hose pliers would have saved me some $$$. I somehow broke a couple of wires from the connector trying to remove the hose from the PCV valve with vice grips. The dealership charged $350 to locate and repair the wires with no guarantee or $1400 to replace the harness which run through the engine.
Thanks!
Nice - this seems like the easiest PCV replace for the Subaru. Nothing else needs to be removed unlike other models.
Agree
Is this all the same for the 3.6 2014?
I will second what you said. Just buy a new hose from the beginning!
Thx for your input. :)
Hi my pcv valve won't come off, it looks like it's stuck, I tried different sockets and use all my strength. I show it to a mechanic and he couldn't take it off, he doesn't want use an impact and break something. It looks like there is a sealant or paste around the valve, I used WD-40 but no luck yet. Any idea ?
Hello. First off - Do NOT Heat it. Combustible vapors are inside the engine / crankcase at all times. NO open flame HEAT. What you CAN TRY - is soaking it over night with WD-40 (like you did) and can try other penetrants as well. PB blaster works well, too. May have to spray it down 2-3 x a day for a day or two. Because if someone put a sealant / paste on it - the penetrant can help break it down. This is why I always use a smidge of liquid teflon.. as it never gets hard like a glue or RTV. Try a 6 sided socket for added grip (12 point is ok but more likely to slip) and use a really long 3/8 ratchet on a 12” extension. That gives leverage. You wanna just give it a good “snap” pull on that ratchet to get ‘er free! You can even use 1/2 tools. A quick blip on an impact gun can even help but is risky, as it may snap the valve off - right at threads and then you’d need an easy out to remove thread patch. They also sell spray FREEZE CANS. You spray a frozen bolt or part and it FREEZES PART. Then it may break free. Opposite of using heat but can work.. Hope this helps ya!
Same thing just happened to me, I put a 19mm impact socke with a 1/2 drive 2 foot breaker bar and it would not budge. I will try soaking multiple days with PB blaster, and try in 3-4 more days, and when the engine is warm. If that doesn't work, I may get the freez cane that @automotiveEZ suggests
It is not simple for some reason. New valve goes just half way in. No more. Tried put back old one just the same. Half way only
Pipe threads are tapered (like a cone), so they won't bottom out. I made this mistake before by overtightening on a different car and broke my oil pump housing in two. Just turn until tight.
Do not over tighten - does not have to be flush - is a pipe thread type fitting
Dealer wanted to charge $250 for this
Lol. Well, glad you found this video then :) Thanks for watching