Will a 21mm PWK Work On a Stock 49cc 139QMB GY6 50 Maddog?
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- Опубліковано 1 тра 2024
- Last 21mm PWK on a 50cc Maddog was super successful. It gained 4mph. Viewers pointed out that it was not a good 50 test as the bike had Naraku 52.4mm Big Bore Kit (90cc) and NCY Cam. Viewers were correct again. In this video I test the Chinese Keihin knockoff on a true 49cc Icebear Mad dog.
Tuning and Installing PWK 21mm • Maddog 50 Gets 21mm PW... - Авто та транспорт
Would love to see you do a video on a DIY AFR gauge install and tune. I have one for testing and it’s hard to find a good video with descent information.
I will. I have to buy one. Know nothing about them. Gonna have to do a deep dive so I can bore yall. LOL. Any recommendations to which one to buy? I want to do 70s carb tuner skills VS AFR.
@@GhettoWrench I agree, an AFR video would be great. I'm thinking of buying one soon.
Fun experiment, but that's a whole lotta carb for that engine. You did a good job tuning it though. We always recommend the CVKs for stock QMB/GY6 applications as well, for daily use they're the better option from a drivability standpoint.
Agree. Way over carbed. My wife will not be happy with her 50. LOL. The CVK runs so perfect.
the nibbi website has jets for this carb that go below a 100 main. it stuttered a bit at wide open so it may be a bit rich still. I'm surprised that carb worked as well as it did considering the size of the intake valve. another good video thanks for sharing the results.
Oh cool. Thanks. So you think those random "stutters" were still because it was too rich, that makes sense. I was surprised too. That is a lot of carb for a 50. Measured more like 22mm
@@GhettoWrench I got the AEM wideband o2 sensor kit and that helped me the pwk to my 90cc bbk. It did the stutter at wot with the 105 main jet. The o2 gave a reading of 10.0 and that's very rich. It's expensive but I recommend getting the AEM afr kit. It'll save so much time with tuning.
@mrpartridge8765 ok thanks. I did notice the wideband ones are expensive so they must be better. I will look up the AEM one.
For my experience it will run better without air filter but the dust can get into your engine , it is more better if it's stock carburetor with bigger air intake.
Very clean build too
Ya the air filter is Def a restriction. Thanks. That PWK is the bomb. Now that I have the 90cc kit on the bike is running same 0-30 and 1/8th and top speed as my 150 when it was stock.
any idea if you need to bypass/close a circuit on a bike that uses electric fuel enrichment? I have been tinkering with a wolf rx50 (49cc bb kit 80cc). Recently bought a maikuni pwk. Works fine with the stock cvk carb but will not start with the pwk carb. Im interested in what the pwk carb will do. Also , you seem very knowledgeable on gy6 motors. Im interested in swapping out my gears and wondering if you know, or know of another channel (not rolling wrench) that explains gear ratios in a way that a small child can understand. Anyway, love the videos, and thanks! (your channel is the only one that i could find showing a proper step by step for installing this type carb)
The PWK is hard to get to idle. Really hard. There is no electronics hooked to it. That wire on CVK just did enriching jet for cold. Leave it hanging. I get mine running initially on the throttle... 2500 RPMish and the bike tries to take off. Screw your big idle knob in till you get control of that slide then you can let off the throttle and it will be controlled by that big idle knob. It is running off the main and needle jet when you do this. Start backing the idle knob to get it half way running on the pilot jet. When it tries to die or runs worse turn the air fuel mix screw either way until it runs better. Let out some more idle knob and repeat. Eventually you will be just on the pilot jet. Then it should start. They are a pain.
I’d been running a 24mm cvk on all my big blocked gy6 50cc engines along with other upgrades and they scream. So much easier to work with and adjust. The slide carbs gives a faster throttle response which is nice.
Have you ever tried the 24mm CVK on a 50 (49cc)? I have a drawer full of them, but figured it would be too rich
@@GhettoWrench yes! That’s the stock 150 carb. At WOT doesn’t matter which carb is on there. If I were racing though, I’d use a slide carb
@@GhettoWrench had to re-read that…no I’ve never tried it on a stock 50.
@edwinmendija8087 oh ok. I was about to then thought... 24mm is way too big so didn't. Maybe I should revisit that. Hmmm
35 and 90, good luck.
35 might be to big,these carbs are stupid to figure out
Hi Bud where did you say you get your ruckus scooters from $1400 to your door thanks
Cajun Maddogs
I have a flat slide ima 50 cc it does 4o on a flat surface.im Russian 35 idle and a100 main jet it loads up with fuel a little bit on the bottom end but takes of and had decent mid range
Ok so maybe the 100 jet is good then
The diaphragm carbs suck balls IMO, I want my throttle open when I twist the throttle, not "please open"
I have a problem on my 139qmb scooter where the slide opens fully easily when throttling but then it starts to modulate the mixture from lean to rich constantly and it closes my slide. Its a genuine Keihin PD19J. I can force the slide open with my finger when revving stationary when its doing the "bog" thing and it will suddenly rev to the moon.
For some reason it doesnt hold throttle inside the carb. Ive tried literally everything, needle position rich to lean, using rich main jet and needle lean, lean main jet with rich needle, all those variables also with restricting intake and trying a smaller main jet, having the restriction closer to carb, restriction further from the carb etc. etc.
The moped also revs momentarily when I block the air intake when its losing throttle and it will rev for a little while then lose the throttle again.
When the rear wheel is up it goes VVRROOOOOOOOOOooooooo (screams to the moon first and then settles to about 7000-8000rpm) and it smells horrible (super rich and thick fumes)
You have a vacuum leak. Easy fix. Look at what you touched last. The hose on the intake manifold is usually the loose one. But they all need to be super tight. You should not be able to pull them off by hand or even twist them easy. They have to be tighter than fuel lines. Air will be pulled in and lean your mixture and make rpms go up and then surge.
Not all Carbs equal either my buddy has an actual real makuni carb off his son's kx100 which is a 32mm carb on his 171cc gy6 and runs phenomenal. I'm running an oko 30mm on my 232cc 4valve Liquid Cooled gy6 and it's hit and miss so I've decided to go get a name brand 32mm pwk like his either used off a kx100 and rebuild it or buy a brand new name brand carb
Good call. I hear a lot of hype about Nibbi but never tried one. For a cheapo carb.
I bought year ago have not used. It but im learning. From u. Was giving a chance to get a tomberlin crossfire engine.gy6.150 motor. To swap with. My 50cc just needs a. Motor mount harness. Comes with it. Don't think it would. Work or can it be manageable it's a buggy engine gy6.
You can use the entire 50cc harness on the 150. CDI, regulator, coil, starter relay and of light and all are all the same.
Where did you get that gold triple tree on the green one??
AliExpress
Nice! how do you find the size ? I have a 2013
@@itssyrus8128 I just took a chance. It seems to fit. a.aliexpress.com/_mOqMqIO
@@GhettoWrench thank you 🙏🏼
What's the blue knobs for?
Pull up for choke which is actually a "enriching Jet"
I got pwk . How do I get the idle down
The knurled knob on the side is the idle. Have to get that slide down. If that knob has no effect then your throttle cable is too tight and holding it up.
Bruh u r a mechanic. People watching aren't like me. Videos don't teach. Hands on does but it could get costly right
Install big bore 50 or 52mm and feel the difference
LOL. Have you seen this video?
ua-cam.com/play/PL40v1sBLwQEvu8MFddHJGX5jTMacn7VmA.html&si=4sztS3Ovf-RuAd3h
this should not work with a 21 pwk, but it kinda does
You put that perfectly. It does, but it doesn't. It is slow on acceleration and seems to load up if just cruising. I am going to a smaller carb and saving this until the BBK mod. I have it all the lean on the needle and it is physically getting stuck in the emulsion tube making the throttle stick. I should have rode it more for the video. I'm making a redemption video with a 19mm Nibbi. LOL
@@GhettoWrench yeah I have a 26 and a 28,you know what's funny? The 28 is leaner than the 26 with the same settings,I say it's up on luck for those carbs, good luck on your projects
@THODORISKK for sure. I jabe a VM22 Chikuni that measures 26. Thanks
@@GhettoWrench chikuni🤣
There goes Joe biden
Looked just like him. I swear 😆
@@GhettoWrench well your state is retirement capital of the nation where the old people go to live out their final years
@@Smodlee yes it is 😆
Hey man so I know you’re not an “expert” on these scooters but could you possibly let me know if you think a NIBBI PE 17mm carburetor would fit on a 50cc gen V? I was thinking about getting one but I’m not sure if it’ll fit. It’s on Amazon
The problem is all the Nibbi under 24mm have that weird mini bike flange with 2 holes for mounting. You would need some kind of adapter to make it like a round pipe that slide into the intake boot. The Nibbi flange holes are 48mm apart. The 50cc intake holes are 45mm. So 2 different size holes with a manifold that bends it about 60 degrees. Let me know if you know of anything or find anything as I would like to put a nibbi 19mm on.
@@GhettoWrenchI got you so if I were to get a 21 mm carb without the two mounting holes just a slide on type of thing then it would work?
@noahlabrie7452 most likely you would need a GY6 150 intake manifold also. Like the one in the video. Most everything is made for that 30-33mm opening size. The stock intake manifold boot has an opening of 25mm