Used your videos years ago to paint my exterior! STILL good. Reviewing now as I paint the soffits and fascia while putting on new gutters. COULD NOT do these without your entertaining and excellent help.
Great video. I wouldn't reccomend filling large cracks or crevices with caulking though as it shrinks over time and you'll definitely be able to tell. Use some kind of filler material beforehand (wood scraps etc) and you'll be happy you did.
Thanks, John for an excellent video. I was panicking when I dug out the existing caulk and there was a huge gap. After your video, I feel better about scraping out ALL the 20 year old caulk and starting fresh. Humor and crisp dialog- loved it.
Good luck with your paint job! Remember not to scrape TOO hard at the caulk, i.e. don't do damage to the siding or trim when digging it out. If it's still adhering and can't be scraped out, you can still do a thin layer of caulk on top of the old caulk and smear it in with your finger to smooth it, just to help seal up the old caulk and fill any small fissures.
Your craftsmanship and attention to detail are sadly a lost art. You're awesome!! I would hire you in a second. Thanks for sharing your wisdom I hope folks take heed and do what you do. Thanks
For those questioning why he said NOT to caulk bottom of each lap- No siding's 100% water tight. So the bottom of every siding lap should never be caulked. No caulk allows water to escape with gravity AND ventilates small area between siding & vapor barrier. W/ no source of cool dry air even w/ vapor wrap siding will develop mold and/ or rot depending on material. Like any vent or pipe base on a roof.. caulk L, R, & top edge but never the bottom edge. To allow water an easy escape back on top of the shingle course below. Install specs for every type of siding state not to caulk under bottom edge. On similar note mesh below the starter strip behind bottom of lowest lap siding is as, that combination allows increased cool dry air to enter, while keeping insects out. Starter strip, prevents bottom of lowest lap from being flush w wall- which looks terrible as lap would have different profile than every lap above & would prevent water from escaping.. why often times the lowest lap of masonite or wood looks worse than any lap above even when sufficient gap above ground.
That depends on the house , I restore 1700's and 1800's homes . Some of the gaps underneath the clapboards can be up to 1/4 to 3/8 wide due to the previous 8 hack painters who never re-nailed the siding to tighten it up so instead kept adding paint to the gap making it impossible to re-nail tightly . I typically re-nail and caulk all these old homes tight otherwise they look like shit . Leaving these large gaps allows insects and exposure from weather to enter the home , In NH a 1/4 gap allows a ton of cold air into a home as well . I've been doing this for 25 years and have revisited previous work that I've completed over a decade ago with no issues . Alo the caulking that this painter is using is 100% garbage , it's the cheapest crap you can buy which is typical of most painters that will buy a $60 gallon of paint but use $1.99 caulk .
@@stefan8491 Dap Dynaflex 230 or better . I also recommend renailing any loose trim and clapboards prior to caulking as no matter what type of caulk you use is pointless if the boards are loose . This guy re-nailed nothing as all those large gap's that he caulked will come right back in no time .
Outstanding 👍 thanks for taking your time out to help others, I have been doing this from time to time since the late 70's. And getting ready to paint my house , it just makes it look better .
Love your choice of jazz music, since I play trumpet that sounds much like that... You didn't talk much about wood dry rot. I noticed some of the boards you were caulking over had dry-rot. Why wouldn't you replace them? I guess if you are only doing a make-over for a sale, its not worth the expense, but any good house inspection would stab a poker in there and flag it as rotted. Great you mentioned the horizontal gaps on the lap siding not being caulked, since they need to expand and contract with temp/humidity. Some idiot tried to caulk all of my sidings and now of course it's cracked and peeling back... What should I do, can't really paint of the blistering. Do I need to cut out all that caulk? Agree with your choice of caulk, paintable silicone is the dope! not the acrylic stuff... thnks
Sherwin William has a great silicone rubber tool for spreading bead....a few splinters and infections is all it takes to delay a job...not to mention that stuff can not be good for skin.
Hi John, Great video! Any recommendations for filling holes and cracks in stucco? Also, for scraping, and recommended tools? I have heavily textured stucco.
THANK YOU! I thought that was the case, and went reading in the comments to verify that. Funny that he caulked the whole thing. Do you caulk the top? Should I caulk the top of my door?
In Georgia, dust mite, mold spores and due to rag weed, Georgia pine and etc... we always caulk beneath the boards in which you said never to do so, please explain?
No siding is 100% water tight. The bottom of every siding lap should never be caulked. No caulk allows water to escape with gravity AND ventilates the small area between siding & vapor barrier. With no source of cool dry air even w/ vapor wrap siding will develop mold and/ or rot depending on material. It's like any vent or pipe base, ect. on a roof.. caulk Left, Right, & top edge but never the bottom edge. To allow water that gets under an easy escape back on top of the shingle course below. Install specs for Hardie, LP, any vinyl- all state not to caulk under bottom edge of laps and explain why. As for issue you mentioned additional sections of VB (beyond what's against sheathing) or thin metal behind each lap extending slightly over top of the lap below (but not visible) would suffice at shedding water away from exterior wall at bottom of course it likely entered at, while protecting against insects. As well as mesh below starter strip behind bottom of lowest lap, that combination allows increased cool dry air to enter, while keeping insects out. Starter strip, prevents bottom of lowest lap from being flush w wall- which looks terrible as lap would have different profile than every lap above and would prevent any water from escaping.. why often times lowest lap of masonite or wood siding looks far worse than anything above even when sufficiently above the ground.
I would never use alex plus in an exterior application. It's bottom grade stuff and fine for interior trim (although still not my first choice) For exterior stuff it's going to fail quickly. You want to use a quality exterior sealant. For the home depot crowd dynaflex 230 is probably my minimum viable.
I just bought an older mobile home. I cleaned all the spider webs off the siding...They are back again. What can I do so they don't get into the house. Thank you
Should you really be caulking under the window sills? Every flashing 'how-to' for windows focuses on leaving this open for moisture to exit. Very similar to your recommendation about the joint along the bottom edge of siding boards.
Do NOT use cheap caulk such as DAP Alex! That stuff dries out and cracks in a year or less. Use Big Stretch, OSI Quad, or other flexible exterior sealant. It will hold and seal the joint for years.
+howtopaintahouse I've always had great luck with it too. Like the music too. Classy. On a side note OSI Quad is good stuff, but you have to wait a few days before painting it or it will crack. DAP Alex works well enough and you can paint the next day. Great videos
I was told to use lifetime warrantee calk - sure its a gimmick but was told to use the best you can afford. Sherwin Williams has some good stuff for $4 a roll. I got some lifetime at Guries paint store for $2.50.
Hi John, thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge for us DIYers. have you ever used those calking tools for caulking? what is your opinion on those?
TheWarrior831 Sorry, I haven't tried those. I think using a wet finger is going to give the most control, but it does tend to tear up the skin and make it sensitive after a while, at least until a callous forms. Tight latex gloves might help, although they will get torn pretty easily. If you don't like abusing your fingertip(s), by all means try one of those tools, who knows it might help.
Your video was really easy to follow and learn from. Thanks. I have one question, do you only caulk houses with siding, or do you caulk any home before you paint?
sonny woo Boy, I don't really have a recommendation for that...if I were you I'd go to a paint store (a real paint store) and ask the owner/manager what products they sell for that. Sherwin-Williams used to make a good oil-base exterior filler for siding holes and damaged wood. Not sure if they still do. Maybe check with them.
I have not used it. The online reviews look good. It appears to be about twice as expensive as the DAP caulk I use, so I would hope it lasts! Some reviewers noted that it has strong fumes, so you might want to wear a respirator when using it. Somebody else noted it takes a couple days to set up, so make sure you give it enough time before painting. Good luck!
TheBostonFern of course, and this can always be done. But on lap siding on a 2,000 sqft house, that would be a LOT of caulk. Small houses can take 4 or more cases just on trimwork, and just as much just on the trimwork outside
Heidi Gronke I don't usually sand exterior trim unless it is already painted with a shiny/glossy coating--then it will need to be sanded, especially the windows and door jams. But if it's rough wood and a non-glossy surface it shouldn't really need to be sanded.
John - Do you ever use a brush to brush old paint off? Last year I removed soffetting that was covering they eaves of my house. The old paint on the eaves (which I need to test for lead) is flaking off. I started to brush it with a broom and realized what a mess I have. I was thinking about using a small firm bristled brush to get this all off, with drop cloths below. I can't imagine literally scraping all of this with scrapers.
+jill roeder Very difficult situation. Pressure washing will remove a lot of it if it's flaking really badly. Or sandblasting. The problem is that the paint is not adhering to the coat underneath (probably due to dirt or chalking). Once that situation is created, full removal of the topcoat is the only solution for a true fix.
I completely depends on the condition of the paint. For a typical house where maybe 10 or 20 percent of the paint is peeling, I'd say about 8 hours. However, if peeling is more severe than that, it can take several days. Just make sure you've got a radio to listen to!
I believe that's because, theoretically, if any water were to get behind the siding, it needs to be able to escape out the bottom. It may also have to do with moisture in the house escaping. I think that's what you'll find if you look-in to it more
WARNING! BAD INFORMATION IN THIS VIDEO AT 4:05!!! NEVER CAULK THE SIDING-TRIM TRANSITION AT THE TOP EDGE OF AN EXTERIOR WINDOW OR DOORSiding is not the waterproof layer of your house... the plastic or asphalt house-wrap underneath the siding is the actual waterproof layer. SO, we expect water to get in behind siding, and that water needs a place to get out! we NEVER caulk the bottom edge of siding, over a window, over a door, or at the bottom of the wall.
I was taught that way too many years ago. I haven't found modern caulk to dry out when applied directly on wood. There is nothing on the tube (DAP brand) about not applying to bare wood. The reason I caulk before priming is because caulk can "shine" through a coat of latex paint, and priming after caulking helps prevent that. This is particularly applicable when caulking new wood trim on an interior job--I don't want caulk shining through the finish coat, so I caulk first, then prime, then paint. Really I think it can be done either way, this is just the way I do it.
Makes sense. I visited a couple forums, and painters of every ilk caulk both ways. Thanks for the response. By the way, I've learn a lot from your videos. Thanks for taking the time and effort.
Hi John, Have you ever used or had experiecne with Sachco - Lexel? A contractor recommended this to me over the GE or DAP .sashco.com/hi/lexel.html Interested in your thoughts. Thanks for an excellent series of vids!
Yeah you're right it is a cheap gun but I like those yellow dripless guns...they've always worked well for me. But I'd be curious to try one of those Cox power flows you mention. As far as cutting the tubes... since a razor knife is an essential tool on any paint job anyway, it's easy to cut the tips of the tubes with it. But as always with painting, there are many ways to do it and everybody develops their own methods.
I have been a professional caulker for over 40 years. I have seen 10s of thousands of dollars in damage caused by using DAP products n the exterior. They Are fine for very superficial paint prep. But not as a waterproof sealant.Never for corner boards you can see the damage caused by using latex.Never around doors or windows. Absolutely wrong.If it needs to be waterproof and painted use urethane. Guys like this keep me in business. They have no idea about sealants. If air can infiltrate so can water.
That is not silicone. It’s acrylic latex. How can you make a how to video when you don’t even know what material you are using.Acrylic is fine for purely cosmetic work but never use it for any waterproofing situations. It is garbage as a sealant.
This series is why the internet was created. Amazing
Used your videos years ago to paint my exterior! STILL good. Reviewing now as I paint the soffits and fascia while putting on new gutters. COULD NOT do these without your entertaining and excellent help.
Great video. I wouldn't reccomend filling large cracks or crevices with caulking though as it shrinks over time and you'll definitely be able to tell. Use some kind of filler material beforehand (wood scraps etc) and you'll be happy you did.
Thanks, John for an excellent video. I was panicking when I dug out the existing caulk and there was a huge gap. After your video, I feel better about scraping out ALL the 20 year old caulk and starting fresh. Humor and crisp dialog- loved it.
Good luck with your paint job! Remember not to scrape TOO hard at the caulk, i.e. don't do damage to the siding or trim when digging it out. If it's still adhering and can't be scraped out, you can still do a thin layer of caulk on top of the old caulk and smear it in with your finger to smooth it, just to help seal up the old caulk and fill any small fissures.
Your craftsmanship and attention to detail are sadly a lost art. You're awesome!! I would hire you in a second. Thanks for sharing your wisdom I hope folks take heed and do what you do. Thanks
Yo, these tips really helped out. The water bucket w/ rag made the caulk come out like a pro. Thank you so much!
Extremely helpful, John! I'm just getting ready to caulk my house so this information is invaluable to me.
For those questioning why he said NOT to caulk bottom of each lap- No siding's 100% water tight. So the bottom of every siding lap should never be caulked. No caulk allows water to escape with gravity AND ventilates small area between siding & vapor barrier. W/ no source of cool dry air even w/ vapor wrap siding will develop mold and/ or rot depending on material. Like any vent or pipe base on a roof.. caulk L, R, & top edge but never the bottom edge. To allow water an easy escape back on top of the shingle course below. Install specs for every type of siding state not to caulk under bottom edge. On similar note mesh below the starter strip behind bottom of lowest lap siding is as, that combination allows increased cool dry air to enter, while keeping insects out. Starter strip, prevents bottom of lowest lap from being flush w wall- which looks terrible as lap would have different profile than every lap above & would prevent water from escaping.. why often times the lowest lap of masonite or wood looks worse than any lap above even when sufficient gap above ground.
That depends on the house , I restore 1700's and 1800's homes . Some of the gaps underneath the clapboards can be up to 1/4 to 3/8 wide due to the previous 8 hack painters who never re-nailed the siding to tighten it up so instead kept adding paint to the gap making it impossible to re-nail tightly . I typically re-nail and caulk all these old homes tight otherwise they look like shit .
Leaving these large gaps allows insects and exposure from weather to enter the home , In NH a 1/4 gap allows a ton of cold air into a home as well . I've been doing this for 25 years and have revisited previous work that I've completed over a decade ago with no issues .
Alo the caulking that this painter is using is 100% garbage , it's the cheapest crap you can buy which is typical of most painters that will buy a $60 gallon of paint but use $1.99 caulk .
@@manchesterexplorer8519 I'm about to address this on my own home. What caulk would you recommend?
@@stefan8491 Dap Dynaflex 230 or better . I also recommend renailing any loose trim and clapboards prior to caulking as no matter what type of caulk you use is pointless if the boards are loose . This guy re-nailed nothing as all those large gap's that he caulked will come right back in no time .
Amazing tutorials. Thanks for the great heads up. Bought your book and am excited to read. Great stories. Reminds me of the guys I worked with.
Outstanding 👍 thanks for taking your time out to help others, I have been doing this from time to time since the late 70's. And getting ready to paint my house , it just makes it look better .
This guy knows his stuff!!! Great video 👍👍
Thanks for all the work you put into these videos. It helps to demystify maintaining your house. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the great tips. How do you remove old, cracked caulking from aluminum window capping without ruining the capping?
Thanks, Keep creating more information for House Painting
Very useful video, I totally forgot the need for having your finger wet, so helpful.
Thanks. Really useful video as a home owner.
You should put links to the other videos in the series in the descriptions of each video.
Love your choice of jazz music, since I play trumpet that sounds much like that... You didn't talk much about wood dry rot. I noticed some of the boards you were caulking over had dry-rot. Why wouldn't you replace them? I guess if you are only doing a make-over for a sale, its not worth the expense, but any good house inspection would stab a poker in there and flag it as rotted. Great you mentioned the horizontal gaps on the lap siding not being caulked, since they need to expand and contract with temp/humidity. Some idiot tried to caulk all of my sidings and now of course it's cracked and peeling back... What should I do, can't really paint of the blistering. Do I need to cut out all that caulk? Agree with your choice of caulk, paintable silicone is the dope! not the acrylic stuff... thnks
Thank you!!! Just what I needed to learn.
Great tips! Thanks for putting these out here.
Great work and thank you!
2:30 most important part of video
also use a good caulking gun, saves the time and easier to use
Do you have to remove the old caulk before you re-caulk?
Sherwin William has a great silicone rubber tool for spreading bead....a few splinters and infections is all it takes to delay a job...not to mention that stuff can not be good for skin.
Hi John, Great video! Any recommendations for filling holes and cracks in stucco? Also, for scraping, and recommended tools? I have heavily textured stucco.
John - when Caulking the house, do you first need to remove the old caulking prior to apply to the new caulking? Thanks.
Never caulk under a window. it will create dry root if there is any water intrusion, just do it on top and sides.
Manuela Baez bro your genius lol
fck i just caulked all my windows and did the bottom...i means its water tight I used PL. or am I screwed?
Thanks. Thats very good information. None of my windows are caulked underneath. Now I know why.
THANK YOU! I thought that was the case, and went reading in the comments to verify that. Funny that he caulked the whole thing. Do you caulk the top? Should I caulk the top of my door?
Dude this is incredibly helpful!!!
In Georgia, dust mite, mold spores and due to rag weed, Georgia pine and etc... we always caulk beneath the boards in which you said never to do so, please explain?
No siding is 100% water tight. The bottom of every siding lap should never be caulked. No caulk allows water to escape with gravity AND ventilates the small area between siding & vapor barrier. With no source of cool dry air even w/ vapor wrap siding will develop mold and/ or rot depending on material. It's like any vent or pipe base, ect. on a roof.. caulk Left, Right, & top edge but never the bottom edge. To allow water that gets under an easy escape back on top of the shingle course below. Install specs for Hardie, LP, any vinyl- all state not to caulk under bottom edge of laps and explain why. As for issue you mentioned additional sections of VB (beyond what's against sheathing) or thin metal behind each lap extending slightly over top of the lap below (but not visible) would suffice at shedding water away from exterior wall at bottom of course it likely entered at, while protecting against insects. As well as mesh below starter strip behind bottom of lowest lap, that combination allows increased cool dry air to enter, while keeping insects out. Starter strip, prevents bottom of lowest lap from being flush w wall- which looks terrible as lap would have different profile than every lap above and would prevent any water from escaping.. why often times lowest lap of masonite or wood siding looks far worse than anything above even when sufficiently above the ground.
I would never use alex plus in an exterior application. It's bottom grade stuff and fine for interior trim (although still not my first choice) For exterior stuff it's going to fail quickly. You want to use a quality exterior sealant. For the home depot crowd dynaflex 230 is probably my minimum viable.
I just bought an older mobile home. I cleaned all the spider webs off the siding...They are back again. What can I do so they don't get into the house. Thank you
Do you caulk around the actual window where it meets the trim or only along the outside of the trim?
Should you really be caulking under the window sills? Every flashing 'how-to' for windows focuses on leaving this open for moisture to exit. Very similar to your recommendation about the joint along the bottom edge of siding boards.
I was always told not to. It will trap water if you do.
Thanks for the help! Doing this today!
Great video. Question. Repainting an old house. After removing the old paint.
Should you call before or after priming?
Why do you caulk the bottom of exterior window trim but not the bottom of exterior lap siding?
John, awesome series - but your blurb on your book is shrouded by the music. Put in a link or something.
We’re repainting and recaulking our garage. Should I paint first or caulk first?
Do NOT use cheap caulk such as DAP Alex! That stuff dries out and cracks in a year or less. Use Big Stretch, OSI Quad, or other flexible exterior sealant. It will hold and seal the joint for years.
+doobysnacks Interesting comment...I've had great luck with DAP Alex. I've used it on my own house and never had it crack or dry out.
+howtopaintahouse I've always had great luck with it too. Like the music too. Classy. On a side note OSI Quad is good stuff, but you have to wait a few days before painting it or it will crack. DAP Alex works well enough and you can paint the next day. Great videos
I was told to use lifetime warrantee calk - sure its a gimmick but was told to use the best you can afford. Sherwin Williams has some good stuff for $4 a roll. I got some lifetime at Guries paint store for $2.50.
Jacana Productions y
also caulking gun is important too, use a better one or the right one for the job
Hi John, thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge for us DIYers. have you ever used those calking tools for caulking? what is your opinion on those?
TheWarrior831 Sorry, I haven't tried those. I think using a wet finger is going to give the most control, but it does tend to tear up the skin and make it sensitive after a while, at least until a callous forms. Tight latex gloves might help, although they will get torn pretty easily. If you don't like abusing your fingertip(s), by all means try one of those tools, who knows it might help.
What's the best caulking type for wood siding in old 70s ramblers?
Do you caulk were stucco and wood meet?
Your video was really easy to follow and learn from. Thanks. I have one question, do you only caulk houses with siding, or do you caulk any home before you paint?
It's any home
Hey, John! what brand name epoxy do you recommend for large holes and cracked areas in the fascia boards. . Thanks for the great videos.
sonny woo Boy, I don't really have a recommendation for that...if I were you I'd go to a paint store (a real paint store) and ask the owner/manager what products they sell for that. Sherwin-Williams used to make a good oil-base exterior filler for siding holes and damaged wood. Not sure if they still do. Maybe check with them.
howtopaintahouse John. Thank you for taking the time to reply. i ordered the epoxy, bondo. Good luck with your writing.
I think I have cold air coming in between the siding boards where you said not to caulk..... is there a reason why not to caulk them?
Those openings allow the house to breathe. Without them, moisture would get trapped behind the boards and cause problems with your siding
Great video!
I have not used it. The online reviews look good. It appears to be about twice as expensive as the DAP caulk I use, so I would hope it lasts! Some reviewers noted that it has strong fumes, so you might want to wear a respirator when using it. Somebody else noted it takes a couple days to set up, so make sure you give it enough time before painting. Good luck!
Heyt John, thanks for the vid. Why not caulk under the lab siding?
So if water gets behind it's not trapped and won't rot out the house
A newbie question.. what's wrong with caulking underneath the sidings? Doesn't it prevent moist air from getting to the wall?
TheBostonFern of course, and this can always be done. But on lap siding on a 2,000 sqft house, that would be a LOT of caulk. Small houses can take 4 or more cases just on trimwork, and just as much just on the trimwork outside
Hello. ..I'm trying to re paint the trim around my house on the outside and after I scraped it I was wondering if I had to sand it?
Heidi Gronke I don't usually sand exterior trim unless it is already painted with a shiny/glossy coating--then it will need to be sanded, especially the windows and door jams. But if it's rough wood and a non-glossy surface it shouldn't really need to be sanded.
Good video man thank you
Its called striking the caulk bead
very nice👍👍❤️
Thx dude!
John - Do you ever use a brush to brush old paint off? Last year I removed soffetting that was covering they eaves of my house. The old paint on the eaves (which I need to test for lead) is flaking off. I started to brush it with a broom and realized what a mess I have. I was thinking about using a small firm bristled brush to get this all off, with drop cloths below. I can't imagine literally scraping all of this with scrapers.
+jill roeder Very difficult situation. Pressure washing will remove a lot of it if it's flaking really badly. Or sandblasting. The problem is that the paint is not adhering to the coat underneath (probably due to dirt or chalking). Once that situation is created, full removal of the topcoat is the only solution for a true fix.
Thank-you.. I think i'm actually going to try vacuuming it. But yes, I think i have a lot of work to do.
how long deos it typically take to scrape a entire home
I completely depends on the condition of the paint. For a typical house where maybe 10 or 20 percent of the paint is peeling, I'd say about 8 hours. However, if peeling is more severe than that, it can take several days. Just make sure you've got a radio to listen to!
do we need to power wash it? before painting,I wanna paint my house.
Yes, I think that's video 2
Thanks for this.
Why do we want to stay away from the underneath the actual siding itself
I believe that's because, theoretically, if any water were to get behind the siding, it needs to be able to escape out the bottom. It may also have to do with moisture in the house escaping. I think that's what you'll find if you look-in to it more
why does every1 use that dap crap? i used that same exact one and within a year it started cracking. been using PL and havent seen it crack yet
Same. That stuff cracked every time I used it.
some of it could be nailed. nailing it down its cheaper and better. Nail your gaps shut
WARNING! BAD INFORMATION IN THIS VIDEO AT 4:05!!! NEVER CAULK THE SIDING-TRIM TRANSITION AT THE TOP EDGE OF AN EXTERIOR WINDOW OR DOORSiding is not the waterproof layer of your house... the plastic or asphalt house-wrap underneath the siding is the actual waterproof layer. SO, we expect water to get in behind siding, and that water needs a place to get out! we NEVER caulk the bottom edge of siding, over a window, over a door, or at the bottom of the wall.
Thank you.
I ain't seen that much caulk since I came home from work early!
😂🤣😂
So you like lots of caulk and hate gaps. Understood.
I grew in a painting family. I was taught to prime then caulk to ensure the wood (or other material) doesn't draw the moisture out of the caulk.
I was taught that way too many years ago. I haven't found modern caulk to dry out when applied directly on wood. There is nothing on the tube (DAP brand) about not applying to bare wood. The reason I caulk before priming is because caulk can "shine" through a coat of latex paint, and priming after caulking helps prevent that. This is particularly applicable when caulking new wood trim on an interior job--I don't want caulk shining through the finish coat, so I caulk first, then prime, then paint. Really I think it can be done either way, this is just the way I do it.
Makes sense. I visited a couple forums, and painters of every ilk caulk both ways. Thanks for the response. By the way, I've learn a lot from your videos. Thanks for taking the time and effort.
i love when you rub the caulk with your fingers (>_>)
Hi John,
Have you ever used or had experiecne with Sachco - Lexel?
A contractor recommended this to me over the GE or DAP
.sashco.com/hi/lexel.html
Interested in your thoughts.
Thanks for an excellent series of vids!
Mark Varna ,
I use the Lexel , around the shower doors as recommended.
Your videos are great, but surprised you use that caulk.
It doesn't last very long.
3:21 northern flicker
Stellar brah
Because you caulk way too quick this is why you use DAP the cheap caulk
Yo he did that window in about a minute. Would have taken me an hour.
For the last 30 years caulking guns have a built in cutter for the tubes.
They get dull and gummed up. I like to use a very sharp plastic razor knife for a clean cut.
Yeah you're right it is a cheap gun but I like those yellow dripless guns...they've always worked well for me. But I'd be curious to try one of those Cox power flows you mention. As far as cutting the tubes... since a razor knife is an essential tool on any paint job anyway, it's easy to cut the tips of the tubes with it. But as always with painting, there are many ways to do it and everybody develops their own methods.
You never touch exterior caulk with your fingers, unless you're using cheap, crap caulk, like DAP Alex.
Dont smear caulking
Don't caulk the bottom of a window, that's where water weeps out.
@1:24 Reminds me of Lorena Bobbitt. Yikes!
I have been a professional caulker for over 40 years. I have seen 10s of thousands of dollars in damage caused by using DAP products n the exterior. They Are fine for very superficial paint prep. But not as a waterproof sealant.Never for corner boards you can see the damage caused by using latex.Never around doors or windows. Absolutely wrong.If it needs to be waterproof and painted use urethane. Guys like this keep me in business. They have no idea about sealants. If air can infiltrate so can water.
That is not silicone. It’s acrylic latex. How can you make a how to video when you don’t even know what material you are using.Acrylic is fine for purely cosmetic work but never use it for any waterproofing situations. It is garbage as a sealant.
Never use your finger, that is an industry NO NO!!! Looks way better not to. Invest in a battery powered caulk gun as it works wonders.
Why Do we want to stay away from caulking underneath the lips of the siding itself