I use quad with no tape, no soapy water, and still get perfect lines with clean fingers all the time. I'm a window and door installer for 5 years. I guess I just got really used to it. (Sometimes gotta lick the finger tho lol)
Thanks for the explanation. This is exactly the type of review I was looking for. What would you use for exterior sealant for windows and door trim? I bought a bunch of GE All Purpose/Windows and Door 100% Silicone and will be returning it since some people don't recommend using silicone on exterior projects. The windows are attached to brick and stone. The trim is aluminum and PVC. If it can be found at Home Depot or Lowes is appreciated since I need it for a project tomorrow. Thanks!
I am glad to see training like that. Getting 6 tubes of the same caulk and getting used to one's preferred is necessary as the crap is frustrating! 😅 Just gluing old boards together to see how well different ones stick. I use 3 foot 2x4s on 3 foot 2x8s. Test them for grip after 48 hours in dark dry climate. Good practice and gives appreciation for adhesive properties. Everytime I can caulk at home it's midnight. I always have fun even though I can't see as well as I'd like! So far I like Lexel clear or white. It's a polymer rubber. I tried 5 to 7 other brands beforehand. This stuff stretches, goes on cold and damp. What's your favorite clear amd white brand? If the crack is big because of various reasons, I like to shove plummers puddy into the crack as a type of backer. Or the thick quality white electrical tape. Or even scrap foam. Depends on crack size.
Your videos are Great and my Husband ( The most wonderful man alive ) are always doing home improvement so keep up the Videos. I think you are my Florida neighbor, what are the chances of that ✌️
Would polyurethane be good to put in you know on a roof u know in-between the plywood . I made a shed but it leaks a little in between the plywood i will eventually put shingle roofing but would caulk be OK temporarily or permanently?
Thanks for this video. I have used all of the caulks known to man. I think the true missing element of discussion in most videos is adhesion, specifically for exterior wood applications.. There are products like dynaflex that is stretchy but it doesn't stretch well enough to overcome substantial seasonal movement and stay adhered to the surface. I will never use DAP (thought it is fine for interior trim). I only buy the QuadMax and GE Silicone. GE makes a paintable silicone that has worked well for me. I use the GE in different applications to what I use the QuadMax for. GE paintable silicone is so easy to spread and work, and where movement/adhesion isn't an issue it is a lifetime product. I've removed it 10 years later and it is still soft as can be. But, it is usually hard to find and more expensive.
I was living in the Ecuadorian Higlands, and we usually had very high UV, so most sealants in windows and any expossed surface would get destroyed very quickly. I also noticed the sealants dind't always have an appropiate description of its composition (it isn't required by law), so any time we had to repair something the stuff wouldn't last (imagine how many repairs). Now that I'm living in Germany I'm surprise by the amount of options and had no idea what to use to renovate the bathroom. Thank you so much for explaining.
On a stucco house with vinyl windows, there's a galvanized steel J-channel against the perimeter of the window. What caulk is best to use between J-channel and window, assuming a finish coat of synthetic stucco will be placed over the whole building (and including this sealant line)?
I always have trouble with caulking around my bathtub between the backsplash and the tub itself because the tub flexes up and down with a weight of the water what would you recommend
This is not a uncommon issue, and thank you for the question my friend. Now in most cases we find this issue with builder grade tubes. I would clean out all the caulking as best as one can then tape the tubs edge tight to the joint as well as the surround right to the joints edge. then fill the tube with water then will do a 2 step process first fill the gap with PLS40/polyurethane caulk then clean out about just enough so we can go over it with GE silicone once it dries about 48Hrs (we are using the polyurethane as a filler and if the GE fails at least we no its not going to leak.) now if its the only bath in the house then just use the GE let it setup for 24Hrs before draining the tub.
We have also add links to them products and if you choose to use them thank you for thats what helps us pay for these videos make it a Great Day! Also you can post a photo of the tube at letsdiymyhome. com its a new site and forums please feel free to pop in and say hi. Polyurethane Caulk: amzn.to/3Yy6hVx GE Sealants & Adhesives: amzn.to/3YeldaX
I was always told when using polyurethane caulk never touch it after you applied it. 1 it makes a mess of the job 2 you’ll need mineral spirits to clean you finger.
Hi thanks for the video, I gave it a thumbs up and subscribed. Had a leaky window and I think some of the caulking is becoming slightly cracked with some holes in it. Tried removing it from around the window but it was really hard to remove, even with an oscillating tool. Want to go over some of my other windows caulking without trying to remove the caulk. Was going to use the PL window and door sealant to go over the old caulk. Thought? Thanks - Mike
hybrids are fairly new and at this time we are running test on them.... I'm not a fan as of now. unless you enjoy calking stay away.. What ever your project is get the caulking that is best for that project. I'm not into doit all type calking and will be doing a video on there failures soon
Thanks very much for this video! So I'm trying to track down your "favorite" polyurethane caulk (sounded like Valkan, Vulcan?) but your link goes to Sika. I need to seal an window leak between James Hardie siding and metal J chanel and aluminum window frame. What would you recommend? Please and thank you
Never use the dap acrylic caulking the stuff is garbage. Guaranteed to crack within two years. Use Big Stretch instead, it's made by Sashco which also makes that Through The Roof product which is great on the roof. Amazing product
yep, anything alex is garbage. contractors grab it because it’s the cheapest tube on the shelf. dynaflex 230 is my go-to for most interior applications except around water sources (silicone) and special applications (lexel).
Great! Very good video explaining what the different caulks are. One question, Can you just use latex and Poly? Is there any reason not to use Vulkem in a bathroom? Also when would you use quad? Is it poly, and then quad if the weather is too hot or cold?
I dont like silicone outside because its not will it fail but when... and then water gets behind things and roots walls and etc. So so sory for the delays
@@letsdiymyhome Thank you! That answered my questions. I do rentals so my goal is always making things as durable as possible. Just bought a case of white poly for interiors!!
Can I caulk a GAP that is 1/2" to 1" wide in spots - around sliding glass doors. It's difficult to fix the wide gap, but what's the best caulk? I'd guess Polyurethane?
I'm real skeptical to tell you to caulk it, but if you want to try it feel free to do it but I would recommend putting some backer rod to fill in that gap and then go over that....
@@letsdiymyhome I'm trying to use wood or PVC trim to fill part of the gap; then, likely hold that in place with Liquid Nails; then, caulk any space between the trim piece and the stucco with Polly type caulking for complete waterproofing. It's just the gap varies a bit, so I may need to cut the wood pieces in smaller lenghts and glue together.
Boy they annoying me at times they may not specifically stock it but they very well can get it. It's funny how we get to the central and lower States the only thing they want to sell is plastic. Shoot me an email would you please at xxxxxx..... Let me know what store you went to as well as a little about your project if you know the quantity get me that as well if you decided on a brand of steel siding let me know what that would be as well.
AMP is really expensive but man it’s crazy how well it holds up, even in direct sunlight. You sound kind of ignorant though knocking the products before try or even review. The fact that all you have is basic Home Depot products make me wonder. There are so many better brands and types like Tower Tech 2 and others that out perform these basic DAP products far and beyond.
@@MadLadsAnonymous Yeah I’ve tried nearly every brand and like Tower 2 the best all around for painting and general purpose. They all apply about the roughly same though some can be nasty just the Tower 2 has been my overall favorite. It last dang near forever if indoor and supply’s so clean and easy clean up. I have used AMP for direct sunlight like roofs where hot sun 24/7 but would say should definitely grab a tube from your local Sherman Williams and see. Either clear or white is all I use now.
Begging several times in a video for thumbs down or up makes it annoying. You may have useful info, but by the end I was annoyed of your style. Sorry man. I don't recall other videos with people insisting on feedback as much as you did. Hopefully you will change something.
Thanks man, I’m a project estimator for a painting, coatings, and caulking company and this will help a lot for customers asking questions!
Every caulk video, I watch for interior windows and doors, has a different recommendation!
My exterior sealant goto is Quad.
I use quad with no tape, no soapy water, and still get perfect lines with clean fingers all the time. I'm a window and door installer for 5 years. I guess I just got really used to it. (Sometimes gotta lick the finger tho lol)
Never knew there was different caulking. Thank you, I did learn alot!
Thanks for the explanation. This is exactly the type of review I was looking for. What would you use for exterior sealant for windows and door trim? I bought a bunch of GE All Purpose/Windows and Door 100% Silicone and will be returning it since some people don't recommend using silicone on exterior projects. The windows are attached to brick and stone. The trim is aluminum and PVC. If it can be found at Home Depot or Lowes is appreciated since I need it for a project tomorrow. Thanks!
I am glad to see training like that. Getting 6 tubes of the same caulk and getting used to one's preferred is necessary as the crap is frustrating! 😅 Just gluing old boards together to see how well different ones stick. I use 3 foot 2x4s on 3 foot 2x8s. Test them for grip after 48 hours in dark dry climate. Good practice and gives appreciation for adhesive properties.
Everytime I can caulk at home it's midnight. I always have fun even though I can't see as well as I'd like!
So far I like Lexel clear or white. It's a polymer rubber. I tried 5 to 7 other brands beforehand. This stuff stretches, goes on cold and damp. What's your favorite clear amd white brand?
If the crack is big because of various reasons, I like to shove plummers puddy into the crack as a type of backer. Or the thick quality white electrical tape. Or even scrap foam. Depends on crack size.
Love this wonderful guy knows his stuff❤😊
ty
Your videos are Great and my Husband ( The most wonderful man alive ) are always doing home improvement so keep up the Videos. I think you are my Florida neighbor, what are the chances of that ✌️
Thank you! Will do!
I really like your personality! I subscribed!😊
Good video. I was looking for the cure time on ISO quad though. And I wanted to know if I could tool the caulk a little bit.
Finalllllly a good video on this topic!
Would polyurethane be good to put in you know on a roof u know in-between the plywood . I made a shed but it leaks a little in between the plywood i will eventually put shingle roofing but would caulk be OK temporarily or permanently?
Thanks for this video. I have used all of the caulks known to man. I think the true missing element of discussion in most videos is adhesion, specifically for exterior wood applications.. There are products like dynaflex that is stretchy but it doesn't stretch well enough to overcome substantial seasonal movement and stay adhered to the surface. I will never use DAP (thought it is fine for interior trim). I only buy the QuadMax and GE Silicone. GE makes a paintable silicone that has worked well for me. I use the GE in different applications to what I use the QuadMax for. GE paintable silicone is so easy to spread and work, and where movement/adhesion isn't an issue it is a lifetime product. I've removed it 10 years later and it is still soft as can be. But, it is usually hard to find and more expensive.
I was living in the Ecuadorian Higlands, and we usually had very high UV, so most sealants in windows and any expossed surface would get destroyed very quickly. I also noticed the sealants dind't always have an appropiate description of its composition (it isn't required by law), so any time we had to repair something the stuff wouldn't last (imagine how many repairs). Now that I'm living in Germany I'm surprise by the amount of options and had no idea what to use to renovate the bathroom. Thank you so much for explaining.
On a stucco house with vinyl windows, there's a galvanized steel J-channel against the perimeter of the window. What caulk is best to use between J-channel and window, assuming a finish coat of synthetic stucco will be placed over the whole building (and including this sealant line)?
Hi for Quad Max it says no tooling whats your take on it?
I always have trouble with caulking around my bathtub between the backsplash and the tub itself because the tub flexes up and down with a weight of the water what would you recommend
This is not a uncommon issue, and thank you for the question my friend. Now in most cases we find this issue with builder grade tubes. I would clean out all the caulking as best as one can then tape the tubs edge tight to the joint as well as the surround right to the joints edge. then fill the tube with water then will do a 2 step process first fill the gap with PLS40/polyurethane caulk then clean out about just enough so we can go over it with GE silicone once it dries about 48Hrs (we are using the polyurethane as a filler and if the GE fails at least we no its not going to leak.) now if its the only bath in the house then just use the GE let it setup for 24Hrs before draining the tub.
We have also add links to them products and if you choose to use them thank you for thats what helps us pay for these videos make it a Great Day!
Also you can post a photo of the tube at letsdiymyhome. com its a new site and forums please feel free to pop in and say hi.
Polyurethane Caulk: amzn.to/3Yy6hVx
GE Sealants & Adhesives: amzn.to/3YeldaX
I was always told when using polyurethane caulk never touch it after you applied it.
1 it makes a mess of the job
2 you’ll need mineral spirits to clean you finger.
Solid video on sealants.
More or less settled in on Dynaflex 230 for most general tasks at home.
Hi thanks for the video, I gave it a thumbs up and subscribed. Had a leaky window and I think some of the caulking is becoming slightly cracked with some holes in it. Tried removing it from around the window but it was really hard to remove, even with an oscillating tool. Want to go over some of my other windows caulking without trying to remove the caulk. Was going to use the PL window and door sealant to go over the old caulk. Thought? Thanks - Mike
When do you use QUAD over poly?
Psi is not that uv resistant?
No discussion of silanes, true hybrids? Esp with amp on your table?
hybrids are fairly new and at this time we are running test on them.... I'm not a fan as of now. unless you enjoy calking stay away.. What ever your project is get the caulking that is best for that project. I'm not into doit all type calking and will be doing a video on there failures soon
Thanks very much for this video! So I'm trying to track down your "favorite" polyurethane caulk (sounded like Valkan, Vulcan?) but your link goes to Sika. I need to seal an window leak between James Hardie siding and metal J chanel and aluminum window frame. What would you recommend? Please and thank you
Vulkem
Sealacone or silicone?
Never use the dap acrylic caulking the stuff is garbage. Guaranteed to crack within two years. Use Big Stretch instead, it's made by Sashco which also makes that Through The Roof product which is great on the roof. Amazing product
yep, anything alex is garbage. contractors grab it because it’s the cheapest tube on the shelf. dynaflex 230 is my go-to for most interior applications except around water sources (silicone) and special applications (lexel).
Hello Everyone, I hope you all find this video to be informative, please tell use your thoughts?
Great! Very good video explaining what the different caulks are.
One question,
Can you just use latex and Poly? Is there any reason not to use Vulkem in a bathroom?
Also when would you use quad? Is it poly, and then quad if the weather is too hot or cold?
And what’s the reason for no silicone outside?
You could use Poly in a bathroom it will never fail lol but a good bathroom sealant will look nicer and cleaner.
I dont like silicone outside because its not will it fail but when... and then water gets behind things and roots walls and etc. So so sory for the delays
@@letsdiymyhome Thank you! That answered my questions. I do rentals so my goal is always making things as durable as possible. Just bought a case of white poly for interiors!!
What are your thoughts on flexseal. Personally I dont like the spray but the puddy is legit for under water application like active leaks.
its a band aid only it makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up!!! junk!
I hear that the polyurethane is difficult to get out of the tube. Any recommendations?
Tajima Convoy 26 or the sort.
Can I caulk a GAP that is 1/2" to 1" wide in spots - around sliding glass doors. It's difficult to fix the wide gap, but what's the best caulk? I'd guess Polyurethane?
Oh, this is exterior betwee stucco and metal (composite) sliding glass door frame.
I'm real skeptical to tell you to caulk it, but if you want to try it feel free to do it but I would recommend putting some backer rod to fill in that gap and then go over that....
@@letsdiymyhome I'm trying to use wood or PVC trim to fill part of the gap; then, likely hold that in place with Liquid Nails; then, caulk any space between the trim piece and the stucco with Polly type caulking for complete waterproofing. It's just the gap varies a bit, so I may need to cut the wood pieces in smaller lenghts and glue together.
Thanks for the information.👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Ive never used through the roof however i know for a fact it sells well and people dont return it
Np1 ? Used it for decades, best you can buy! and ABC carries it. Last waaay longer than Quad.
The only difference between kitchen & bath silicone and regular silicone is the k&b is supposed to have a mildewcide and different cure times.
amazing video. Please do an update some time!
I feel like in some years we will find out how bad some these products are for our health.. What else am I gonna use now!
Can you paint over the polyurethane sealant
This was phenomenal! I got the right thing it just came out clear , not white , yet I have to paint it
I believe most home depots have it in stock... Vulkem... I would just Google polyurethane caulk another good one would be the 3M,
Big stretch or nothing for me
We been running tests and your going to be shocked,(video coming) depending the application it fails
I hated trying to paint over silicone! I would have to prime over it, and then come back to paint it again! Use it where no painting is needed.
Went to ABC supply. They don't carry steel siding. I'm in Louisville ky
Boy they annoying me at times they may not specifically stock it but they very well can get it. It's funny how we get to the central and lower States the only thing they want to sell is plastic. Shoot me an email would you please at xxxxxx..... Let me know what store you went to as well as a little about your project if you know the quantity get me that as well if you decided on a brand of steel siding let me know what that would be as well.
Try another abc some specialize. I have one near me that only does gutters and accessories. I recommend menards if you have one in the area
I use Quad Maxx to hold toilets solid to the floor.
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Nice Job man!
Thank you
AMP is really expensive but man it’s crazy how well it holds up, even in direct sunlight. You sound kind of ignorant though knocking the products before try or even review. The fact that all you have is basic Home Depot products make me wonder. There are so many better brands and types like Tower Tech 2 and others that out perform these basic DAP products far and beyond.
Would you use Tower Tech for a bath tub or just something like Lexel Silicone (blend) ?
@@MadLadsAnonymous Yeah I’ve tried nearly every brand and like Tower 2 the best all around for painting and general purpose. They all apply about the roughly same though some can be nasty just the Tower 2 has been my overall favorite. It last dang near forever if indoor and supply’s so clean and easy clean up. I have used AMP for direct sunlight like roofs where hot sun 24/7 but would say should definitely grab a tube from your local Sherman Williams and see. Either clear or white is all I use now.
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We as a civilization are in trouble when grown men become obsessed with pointless DIY projects. Who gives a rip about caulking?
You seem to be intelligent so read this- Use a foam backer rod to fill in gaps, then Silkaflex for sealing over the foam rod!
I stopped using backer rod years ago. Expansion foam works way better and is cheaper
alex quick dry is the worst in the market
Begging several times in a video for thumbs down or up makes it annoying. You may have useful info, but by the end I was annoyed of your style. Sorry man. I don't recall other videos with people insisting on feedback as much as you did. Hopefully you will change something.
Thanks for info but quit stopping to ask us to give you thumbs up or down. I'm looking for info on RV not house.
You look like Stephen Harper, former Canadian prime minister 😁
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