Check out the Panasonic Lumix S9 through my links: B&H: bhpho.to/3V9WIx4 Amazon: amzn.to/4ayOi6X Adorama: adorama.rfvk.net/1rv3jD Best Buy: bestbuy.7tiv.net/zNokQ0 Or cameras at Moment's shop: Fujifilm X-T50: partner.shopmoment.com/QyMgqa Fujifilm GFX 100S II: partner.shopmoment.com/xkgPBy Sony A9iii: partner.shopmoment.com/jr9gEM As an affiliate of these shops, I earn from qualifying purchases!
Thanks for the feedback! Yeah, medium format gets pricey. What I was trying to say there is that high-end full frame cameras can be more expensive like the new A9iii. I generally like Nikon and the Z30 does have basically unlimited record time in 1080p, but the 4k thing even when only outputting HDMI feels like a big omission for a camera marketed to be used for video. I can see people buying this thing to use it for streaming at 4k and being surprised it doesn't work. I think it's a firmware limitation rather than a physical limitation of heat build-up when being used in a controlled temperature environment. I suspect they could remedy the situation but have chosen not to.
@@ScottJWaldron On Sony A7 IV I have to enable high temp mode when using as webcam, or it shut the screen off, at least it did in 1.11, I've not tested it in 2.0. I think I had to reboot the camera. but after I turned high temp mode it kept being on. The camera gets. but won't break it. I've not tried long recording yet. With 2.0 you get support for the Creator's app, which allows transfer via USB and WIfi. Controlling the camera via the app works flawlessly at least for me with Samsung A52S phone. Minimal lag, and imports jpgs fast. So can get photos ready for Instagram before I get to editing them properly on pc. But shooting RAW+JPG is key for this, as the exported from Raw looks awful it's just horribly compressed preview, so zooming in will be horrible.
@@ScottJWaldron For me there doesn't seem to be new camera that is exiting. But I look forward to future cameras. Sony has a new one, but super expensive. Maybe in some years the tech will trickle down. Don't know if it will ever exist but, fringe free lenses would be sweet, seems like all lenses have it, might be unavoidable. I got a 24-70 GM II now, sweet lens, but got fringing. I see at grey areas it sometimes gets lots of yellow fringing, and magenta and blue in darker areas, car tyres get green fringing too. when it's crazy I can't fix it in light room, I have to use Camera Raw in Photoshop, and inverted masks to paint in corrected areas.
@@ScottJWaldron It depends on the scene I guess, and aperture, but I only shot at ƒ/2.8 so far. But I will try to use aperture instead of shutter speed, where I can adjust it. It's at 70mm too and between too. Not always, but I shot a railway station, the railings had yellow lines like - - --- ----- ----- ------ at the edges of the railings with asphalt behind it. A football/soccer goal in the distance had yellow too. grey electronic control boxes had magenta fringing. Railway power cables had magenta fringing. but these fixes were quite easy. It was at ƒ/2.8 24.0 mm 1/200 ISO50 I've not experimented much with aperture yet. I have the SEL-85F18 too, I've not tested it at the same spots at the same time, but it did not do the yellow morse code like fringing. But it too had fringing too bad to fix in Lightroom. Minimal distortion, and if aperture was 2- 4 it was gone indoor at least. But outdoors there was some. A con with this lens is it's so light 1/60 can get too shaky. had to bump it up to 1/80 sometimes if I was really steady I managed 1/30, mostly I couldn't- But the GM II is much heavier and feels perfect, it's well balanced. Even 1/10 if I'm really sturdy in my hands, hold it properly. But usually I shoot at 1/60 just in case or down to 1/50, if I feel steady enough. If light is too bad and have time, I do lower if I have to. Forest areas always get blue and magenta fringing. But the scenarios I shot required low aperture.
Credible summary, Scott. Large font text overlay a plus. XT-50 has a 60 min bulb limit? (Spec sheet shot.) My Sony lacks a bulb limit, except that the max bulb timer is 15 min. No limit when you start/stop exposure yourself. Film sim dial more hype than help, IMO. What Fuji really needs to do is revamp its AF - even non-subject detect stuff produces too many false focus flags. Cheers!
Good catch, I didn't notice that. I see it in the spec sheet as well. My main experience with Fujifilm is older cameras like the X100F and X-A7, so I can't comment much on autofocus. Overall, I don't understand their pricing though maybe the combination of factors like film simulations and aesthetics is enough for a premium price even with their existing quirks like comparative autofocus performance.
@@ScottJWaldron I do give Fuji credit for their manual focus assists - rangefinder/split image/penta-prism. Did the X100F and X-A7 have these? More accurate than peaking.
![Panasonic S9 Review - Good Decisions [ Lumix S9 ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jYmM3yidfZg/mqdefault.jpg)
Check out the Panasonic Lumix S9 through my links:
B&H: bhpho.to/3V9WIx4
Amazon: amzn.to/4ayOi6X
Adorama: adorama.rfvk.net/1rv3jD
Best Buy: bestbuy.7tiv.net/zNokQ0
Or cameras at Moment's shop:
Fujifilm X-T50: partner.shopmoment.com/QyMgqa
Fujifilm GFX 100S II: partner.shopmoment.com/xkgPBy
Sony A9iii: partner.shopmoment.com/jr9gEM
As an affiliate of these shops, I earn from qualifying purchases!
2:20 That ain't cheap
7:47 Yes I think you should get rid of it.
8:43 I forgot about this brand, but nice to see more of affordable lenses.
Thanks for the feedback!
Yeah, medium format gets pricey. What I was trying to say there is that high-end full frame cameras can be more expensive like the new A9iii.
I generally like Nikon and the Z30 does have basically unlimited record time in 1080p, but the 4k thing even when only outputting HDMI feels like a big omission for a camera marketed to be used for video. I can see people buying this thing to use it for streaming at 4k and being surprised it doesn't work. I think it's a firmware limitation rather than a physical limitation of heat build-up when being used in a controlled temperature environment. I suspect they could remedy the situation but have chosen not to.
@@ScottJWaldron On Sony A7 IV I have to enable high temp mode when using as webcam, or it shut the screen off, at least it did in 1.11, I've not tested it in 2.0. I think I had to reboot the camera.
but after I turned high temp mode it kept being on. The camera gets. but won't break it. I've not tried long recording yet.
With 2.0 you get support for the Creator's app, which allows transfer via USB and WIfi. Controlling the camera via the app works flawlessly at least for me with Samsung A52S phone. Minimal lag, and imports jpgs fast. So can get photos ready for Instagram before I get to editing them properly on pc. But shooting RAW+JPG is key for this, as the exported from Raw looks awful it's just horribly compressed preview, so zooming in will be horrible.
@@ScottJWaldron For me there doesn't seem to be new camera that is exiting.
But I look forward to future cameras. Sony has a new one, but super expensive. Maybe in some years the tech will trickle down.
Don't know if it will ever exist but, fringe free lenses would be sweet, seems like all lenses have it, might be unavoidable. I got a 24-70 GM II now, sweet lens, but got fringing.
I see at grey areas it sometimes gets lots of yellow fringing, and magenta and blue in darker areas, car tyres get green fringing too.
when it's crazy I can't fix it in light room, I have to use Camera Raw in Photoshop, and inverted masks to paint in corrected areas.
@@mtbboy1993 I'm surprised a Sony GM lens is that bad. I don't have much experience with their glass.
@@ScottJWaldron It depends on the scene I guess, and aperture, but I only shot at ƒ/2.8 so far. But I will try to use aperture instead of shutter speed, where I can adjust it. It's at 70mm too and between too.
Not always, but I shot a railway station, the railings had yellow lines like - - --- ----- ----- ------ at the edges of the railings with asphalt behind it. A football/soccer goal in the distance had yellow too. grey electronic control boxes had magenta fringing. Railway power cables had magenta fringing. but these fixes were quite easy.
It was at ƒ/2.8 24.0 mm 1/200 ISO50
I've not experimented much with aperture yet.
I have the SEL-85F18 too, I've not tested it at the same spots at the same time, but it did not do the yellow morse code like fringing. But it too had fringing too bad to fix in Lightroom. Minimal distortion, and if aperture was 2- 4 it was gone indoor at least. But outdoors there was some.
A con with this lens is it's so light 1/60 can get too shaky. had to bump it up to 1/80 sometimes if I was really steady I managed 1/30, mostly I couldn't-
But the GM II is much heavier and feels perfect, it's well balanced. Even 1/10 if I'm really sturdy in my hands, hold it properly. But usually I shoot at 1/60 just in case or down to 1/50, if I feel steady enough. If light is too bad and have time, I do lower if I have to.
Forest areas always get blue and magenta fringing.
But the scenarios I shot required low aperture.
Credible summary, Scott. Large font text overlay a plus. XT-50 has a 60 min bulb limit? (Spec sheet shot.) My Sony lacks a bulb limit, except that the max bulb timer is 15 min. No limit when you start/stop exposure yourself. Film sim dial more hype than help, IMO. What Fuji really needs to do is revamp its AF - even non-subject detect stuff produces too many false focus flags. Cheers!
Good catch, I didn't notice that. I see it in the spec sheet as well. My main experience with Fujifilm is older cameras like the X100F and X-A7, so I can't comment much on autofocus. Overall, I don't understand their pricing though maybe the combination of factors like film simulations and aesthetics is enough for a premium price even with their existing quirks like comparative autofocus performance.
@@ScottJWaldron I do give Fuji credit for their manual focus assists - rangefinder/split image/penta-prism. Did the X100F and X-A7 have these? More accurate than peaking.
@@paulm8157 Like a split prism? I don't believe so.