I always find after repotting it may look strange, ugly or clumped in patches. It is normal and it will fix itself as it settles into the new pot, kinda like moving house
I put my vft in a orchid pot. Glazed ceramic with holes throughout and a small dish attached to the bottom for humidity. Had a hard time finding spag moss or peat without added nutrients, but I did find some. Mixed in perlite and set it outside (western nebraska) plenty of sun! I'll keep you posted on how the orchid pot works.
Just discovered your channel after discovering how cool carnivorous plants are. I have 3 VFT's and one Pitcher Plant (monkey bowl) I'm "working on." I look forward to watching more of them. Keep up the good work!
Hi, thanks for this video. I have a question. I bought my death cube VFT a week ago and I ordered some carniverous plant soil (peat moss + pearlite) and have a new plastic pot (4 in diameter, 5-6 in deep) ready to put it in. Should I repot this plant as soon as possible or should I wait a while first? Thanks for any help!
I have read that the ph of spagnum peat moss is more acidic and spagnum moss is more neutral ph. What have you found is the difference in growth for the VFT with both these medium? Why do you perfer one over the other? I am curious. Thanks
Eli McCoy pure long fiber sphagnum (high quality one of course, like New Zealand sphagnum) will produce the best results. You can mix it with peat but it’s not as good.
Liguus is there a reason long fiber is better than peat or are you speaking from personal experience? I was thinking maybe because long fiber drains better and isn’t slightly acid like peat moss? But I’m not entirely sure. Would love some insight
Do I really have to add perlite to Sphagnum moss or just Sphagnum moss is good enough? Sphagnum moss that I bought looks alittle different tho. It’s not that long, medium length green colored.
I find that pure peat moss self-compacts too much an the media becomes sour from anaerobic decomposition. On the other hand, I have grown VFTs in pure perlite, although a 50:50 mixture wicks better.
why are your venus flytraps solid green with no red? is that a different species or is that a result of some other reason? How long does it take for the trap to open again (and is it a slow process or does it open as rapidly as it closes?). I had heard that a trap will open and close a few times before it dies. Does that include the times it does not have anything to digest? So many questions sorry.
The ones in this video were purchased very recently from a store at the time of recording. Lower light = less coloration. That being said though, venus flytraps grown from seeds all vary slightly in their genetics. Some "typicals" will have traps with deep red coloration inside and others will be mostly green all year, at most developing a very slight peach colored blush in the trap.
Yesterday my Venus Fly Trap got damaged by heavy rain and hail stones. Now all the traps are shut. Will the plant survive or is it going to die? Thanks
The garden shop I bought my Venus fly trap from, said to keep them in a pot without a drainage hole. That they like it “boggy” and I suppose having no drainage helps. What do you think?
False they do need drainage holes because they need to be bottom fed. Yes they do like boggy conditions but you can just add distilled water over the top of the soil and bottom feed.. More in summer less in winter. Keep soil moist during winter dormancy.
@@brklynmafia4621 Bottom fed? All they should get from the bottom is water. Yes, they like boggy condition, not swampy. A bog has water flowing through it all the time, it is not filled with stagnant water like a swamp.
After re potting, do you keep it in water like you had them at the beginning of the video? At all times, or only some of the time do they sit in a water tray?
Unlike Liguus, I keep mine standing in water year around. I fill the trays to 2 inches by never more than half way up the pot. I prefer 6" or 8" standard round pots for my VFTs.
I don’t really understand dormancy. I just repotted my flytrap and it’s kinda cold outside. I live in LA so it doesn’t go lower than 50. Should I put the trap in the fridge in early December or just leave it alone and let it die and come back on it’s own in the spring?
You may be fine just leaving it outside. LA is pushing it a bit, but the combo of shortened photoperiod and slightly lower temps may be fine for dormancy. There are people who successfully do it outside in south FL. I think the main factor is that you will still have decent sun intensity where you live, so they can continue to grow healthy.
I recently ordered a B52 fly trap and as a matter of fact recieved it yesterday and its looking really good, right now I have it under a growlight indoors and am just watering it as the sphagnum moss begins to feel less damp and lightly dries out, im not sure If I should repot it though? Its in a 3inch pot 2inches deep with sphagnum moss as soil I'm not sure though what kind of pot I should get if I do repot it? I've heard a lot of "get a net pot and just have it sit in water" or "get a pot with drainage holes" what do you recommend is the best type of pots for a b52 fly trap?
Ruben Cordova all Venus flytraps have the same care regardless of which cultivar it is. A regular plastic pot works the best, with a net pot it can dry out too fast, or rot since it has to be sitting in water to wick up enough moisture. A 3.5 inch wide X 5 inch deep pot will be good to accommodate a fully grown plant. You can of course get something a bit larger if you want. The main idea is that an oversized pot will be better than getting one that’s too small for the vft, since you will get roots growing out the bottom and a higher rate of the sphagnum drying out.
I just got my plants in a few days ago. I think they were dormant when I got them because they were short & shriveled, but still green? My mistake was in thinking I only got 2 plants. Apparently, there were 3 rhizomes in each plant. Do I need to separate them into 6 plants? I kind of hate to mess with them because they are starting to look better. The shipping was pretty rough on them. I don’t want to traumatize them with repotting after they seem settled in. (They are my class “pets” so I can’t kill them.)
Teresa Wise you don’t need to divide them, you can just leave them in clumps. Weird that the leaves were shriveled, possibly a shipping issue or kept too dry before they were sent out. As long as the rhizome is white and firm they should re-sprout.
What do you recommend for having the flytraps in direct sun but exposed to some wind? The wind tends to dry the sphagnum moss quickly, sometimes daily. Thanks!
In situations like that either go with 100% sphagnum that you compact a bit more, or stand it in a shallow water tray. I do this in the middle of summer, especially if I'm leaving for a vacation. The tray should be about a 1/2 inch of water and just needs to be refilled when it dries out.
Get the plants into a bog pot with no drainage at the bottom, this will serve as a reservoir. Only make holes 2-3 inches up the bog pot so water is always present somewhere in the soil
Hi , I'm from South Azerbaycan. Telling me to feed a trap every 15 days . is it correct? Please guide me . Feed all the traps doesn't that destroy the Venuses?
No, you can feed it much less often. Even one insect for the whole plant each month is fine. You can also feed every trap on the plant, and you are correct they will die sooner afterwards, but with the additional food it also grows quicker to replace the leaves so you shouldn’t notice very much of a change .
Question: Just got my first vft last week and it's still small but with a few new baby traps, can I divide or is it better to just leave it as is? I'm growing in a grow tent with 78-80 temp and 49-54% humidity. Would greatly appreciate a response 😊 Amazing videos btw very informative and easy to understand.
Hi man. Got trouble findin perlite in Finland. I have some pumice... was wondering could pumice work instead of perlite? About watering.. would lake/river water work instead of rain water? Thanks
The pumice should work, but lake/river water won't. The whole point is to not have any dissolved solids in it, and lake/river water will likely be high in dissolved minerals.
xTwilightWolvesx no, the sand will get washed out of the sphagnum immediately. Its better to use pure sphagnum, or mix in a bit of perlite like I did here.
I have two of them in sphagnum but the sphagnum is turning like green is that normal I mean the plants are fine but I'm kind of concerned?? Should I put new sphagnum??
Panglima Tianfeng sitting in water promotes rot, especially during colder parts of the year. I prefer to just water them like a regular plant. I only really have to water them for maybe 60 seconds, 3x per week using a watering can with distilled water for my collection of 40 Venus flytraps. Not very difficult and like I said it prevent me from having rot issues like I did when they were sitting in water all the time.
Hi, I’ve just brought my fly trap from the shop and am about to repot it, I was just wondering if it’s okay for me to put it in the garden in the direct sunlight each day for 4-6 hours in a tray with 1cm of distilled water or whether I should transition the plant into direct sunlight as to not burn the plant, or place the plant in a shaded area of my garden? Thank you ☺️
it likely didn't get enough sun at the shop (unless they already had it outdoors in full sun) and would be best in a shady spot that gets morning sun for about two weeks, then can get transitioned to full sun.
Liguus okay, sounds good! Thank you so much for replying! My last Venus fly trap turned black/brown and crispy within the first 4 hours😕 so I’m hoping for better results this time round 🙌🏻
I have always used a mix of 1 part sphagnum moss, 1 part perlite (or silica sand) & 1 part peat sphagnum moss. I was told that the peat sphagnum is needed to lower the PH, since sphagnum moss (& perlite) has an almost neutral pH and Venus Flytraps need soil on the acidic side - around 5.
I got my first venus fly trap! It was from my mom and she didn't take proper care it was in the wrong soil and she was giving it the wrong water and since it is my first time i bought everything i need for it but i planted it sorta right I think the only problem is that the pot is way to big and i might of not planted it right because it looks a little droopy is that normal?
They will be droopy after being repotted (for about 1.5 weeks) but should recover. For one plant the size of the pot shouldn't be too large, however shouldn't make too much of a difference. maybe 4 - 5 inch diameter.
@Liguus I received a small venus plant with baby's all over and it came wrapped in peat moss but I removed it and potted only in sphagnum and put it in a tray with distilled water. Should I repotted in peat moss I'm kind of worried I removed the peat moss. Also with sphagnum can it only have water like for 4 days and let it without water for 2 days?? I saw a video about that but with peat moss would that work with sphagnum??
Switching the substrate is no issue. I’ve reported from peat into sphagnum many times after receiving plants. Sitting in water is not required either, as long as the moss is moist to the touch the plant will be fine. I don’t sit mine in water like other people do, I find it only increased the chance of rot.
How often you need to water depends on a number of conditions unique to you alone. The schedule you mentioned might work for a lot of people, but wouldn't work for me in Western Oregon as the planting media would get too dry during that two days without water in the summer. Just monitor your plant daily until you find what is needed. As long as the moss is damp at the top, you will be OK. Personally, I have far too many pots to do that - so my pots all sit in shallow trays of water. I just add water to the trays whenever they go dry.
Ty for the video and links! Just bought a baby from Lowe’s. Needs repotting badly. Would it kill it to do it now? I have a great place for it to grow. Indirect lighting with triple pane Windows so no chill. I can also feed bloodworms if you recommend (i’m subscribing to your channel but this is the only video I’ve seen so far) thoughts? Thanks in advance for your help!
Carmen Conners yes, as soon as it’s warm enough for them to be outside wait about two weeks and they can start eating again (two weeks because it takes them a while to wake up and be active again). I do not have a website
@@TheBonsaiJungle It is plastic, I bought a hyacinth that came in it. When I'm ready to get a vft, I will clean it real good with water only. Thanks for replying!
I have 2 venus fly traps in glass viles with blue gel. Instructions stated to repot once they outgrow the vile, however I am worried of them not making it since they are tiny. I bought organic peat moss and perlite, would you recommend repotting the same way you did even though they are so small?
What you have is a vile os tissue cultured plants. It's kind of a dumb gimmick sold to people since after "deflasking" them they are a bit sensitive. Cannot handle full sun. Honestly when you repot them I would keep the whole pot bagged up in a ziplock to retain humidity and keep it under artificial lights until it acclimates and starts growing again. Or keep it in the shade of a humid greenhouse. Its impossible to put them outside after deflasking since they are sensitive and while being bagged up any direct sunlight will produce way too much heat in the bag and cook them.
@@TheBonsaiJungle Thanks for replying! I live a few blocks from the beach here in California so it's quite humid. I will try the ziploc suggestion. I am hopeful for them to survive since I've been watching your videos all of my other plants are perfectly healthy so let's see how it goes with my venus fly traps 😃💚
@@grfamily4903 The biggest problem, like all tissue cultures in 100% humidity, is that they are extremely sensitive to humidity changes. They need to be acclimated slowly out of direct sunlight so the plant cells can harden.
How do I repot a plant if I want it to mature or produce it's biggest traps? Mine formed a big bush with many traps and growth points, but I'm scared of dividing it causing them to be smaller and also scared it will become overcrowded.
it may only produce smaller traps for a short while before going back to normal. There is no perfect way to repot any plant without causing some minor stress. Just do it as carefully as you can or consider slip-potting into a large planter.
@@jzizzles7799 where do you live? if it's within the native range: NC,SC, even GA or FL then the native soil would be a mix appropriate for the plant. If not then it's not going to survive for much longer.
@@jzizzles7799 In my opinion that is risking it since the tap water minerals can build up and if you forget to water it during very hot weather it can turn to toast, but experimentation is good. How long has it been growing like that? Hopefully it works out for many years and this can be useful data for cultivation.
I heard that you shouldn’t use ceramic pots becuse they can contain minerals that aren’t good for the plant is there a way around it ? Or just stick to plastic sorry I’m picky
@@TheBonsaiJungle Unless you use glazed ceramic, which is quite expensive if you have more than a few plants. But if you use one - make sure it has a drain hole in the bottom.
watching your vidoes! I just killed two really small clusters of flytraps given to me and im not sure if im doing right on the third one but im still confused about the water requirements and how wet should the sphagnum be. A little help?
Hey Eykey just make sure it’s moist at all times. Give it a good soak, then leave the pot standing until the top dries a bit (maybe one or two days) and water again. The main point is to not have them sitting in water all the time. In the summer I water them every day since they are outside in full sun but the tray drains so that they have “wet feet”.
@@TheBonsaiJungle I leave mine sitting in water all the time and they grow fantastically. For a 4" tall pot, I only have 1" - 1.5" standing water and add more water to the tray when the tray is just damp. For a 5" or 6" tall pot, I fill the water tray to 2" deep.
DIY & Hobbyist Couple PH it depends on its previous growing conditions, if it was in a dark air conditioned stored, mailed in the heat, whether its acclimated to full sun already or not, size, etc. on average I would say new growth should resume in about 2 weeks.
@@TheBonsaiJungle Thanks for the fast response. It's already acclimated to full sun. the reason I repotted it is because the soil doesn't drain well anymore. It's like it has compacted or something. but if my proccedure of repotting is wrong how many days will it show sign of dying?
DIY & Hobbyist Couple PH as the rhizome grows so do new roots so it’s not unusual to see only shorter roots when repotting. There should not be any dramatic effects like the plant dying...if it’s stressed after reporting you just won’t see any new leaves growing for two or so weeks.
A few questions i just bought my 1st plants. perlite vs vermiculite thoughts on which is better and why. Why are you not a fan of peat moss. What about a 33% mix of peat sphagnum and perlite?
Perlite is way better than vermiculite. I would not use vermiculite at all since it leeches minerals into the soil. I am not a fan of peat moss simply based on comparing the growth of my plants in sphagnum vs. peat. They seem to grow way better in pure Sphagnum, or sphagnum mixed with a bit of perlite. Others have noticed this as well. They will still grow with 1/3 or peat in the mix but your don't really need it.
I bought two and it was sitting by my kitchen window, this is in Vegas, the traps were turning brown, I water it and revived it, then cut out the dead blackness, I just want to know if it is going to survive, should I repot it or leave it until it is healthy thanks
Mashwe Hla it really depends on the previous care. If the store or nursery was watering very frequently with tap water that has a high TDS it would be better to repot as the peat moss will soak up minerals. Kitchen windows rarely provide enough light though, which is the next potential issue. Since you are in Vegas direct sun may be a bit too much especially since it needs to acclimate to higher light conditions. Is there anywhere outside you can put it which gets morning sun only, or dappled sunlight near a tree? If nothing else you may want to consider buying a Sansi growlight off amazon if the plant is looking unhealthy even after a month or two.
I just got two new Venus flytraps 3 days ago. Then I realized there is a baby under a bigger one I the same pot. Could you please give me some tips on what to do?
I made the mistake of not separating a small plant away from a big plant with the plants out of the pot. I just pulled the smaller one out with a clump of sphagnum moss. I got the whole root and plant. But a month later in the new pot it was dead. I must have damaged the cross roots or it just didn't like the new pot.
I need help with my venus fly traps. Okay, so my Venus flytrap was doing fine until 3 days ago. The moss started to turn green and the water was also turning green what do I do?
Insta Apexzz Yeah Id recommend letting your VFT to slightly dry before watering again also make sure your pot has good drainage, if the plant sits in water for to long it will cause root rot.
If you don't disturb the media around the plant too much, then they can be transplanted any time of the year. If I were to do so during the summer, I would leave the transplanted plants in a place shaded from midday and early afternoon sun for about a week before moving them into full sunlight.
dragom2009 you can. From my experience if works best with long fiber sphagnum on the bottom and live on top. With peat moss underneath the water-wicking doesn’t work as well to the point where the live moss is sustained, unless it’s in a very humid terrarium.
Hi there, I grow all types of carnivorous plants , from neps to venus flytrap, heliamphora, cephalotus, I have tried all media combinations & can honestly tell you just using long fiber sphagnum premium besgrow brand for your neps, heli's & cephs will work better than anything I've currently tried, when repotting Sarracenia & my flytraps & sundews I use LFS petal grade from besgrow, I grow all plants but my neps outside all year around, experimenting at acclimatizing both my cephs & heliamphoras during our late winter season here in New Zealand, the part I live New Zealand is fairly temperate conditions even during winter, anyway it's been about a month or so & my cephs & heliamphora are loving their outside growing condtions, the type of heli's I grow are all Heliamphora Tequila. Cheers.
Panglima Tianfeng I do use sphagnum for all my plants. The other vft was planted in peat just as a demonstration for the video. It was repotted into sphagnum after I finished recording. Peat works better for some climates or greenhouse growers so I wanted to include it in this video as a valid option for people.
I am working on a number of experiment videos however I need to take footage over multiple months/years to reach a reasonable conclusion so it will be a while.
Can o do the second method for some sarracinia pitcher plants I got a pot that came with both pitchers and fly traps and I like to separate them to their own pots any advice would be appreciated
Is it possible for me to use a specific type of dirt? If so what is it called? Also are all of the things in the description expensive? Great video by the way 💖
@@malia5092 A 2 cubic foot compressed bale of sphagnum peat moss is under 30 dollars and 2 cubic feet of perlite is around $15. Unless you have hundreds of plants, that will last you for years.
@@malia5092 You can buy small bags of perlite and sphagnum peat moss at almost any nursery, big box stores and hardware stores with gardening departments. You can also buy premixed media at some of the online CP dealers - like FlytrapStore.com or growcarnivorousplants.com. You can get a 1 gallon ziplock bag full for $4.95 plus shipping from Sarracenia Northwest,
Love these videos. Just started my vft journey a few months ago. I repotted it (maybe too soon bc it was just a baby..not sure) but it turned black after about a month. I got it to where now it's getting green places again as well as growing new traps so I think I turned it around. I hope so.
@@TheBonsaiJungle I'm not sure. I bought it in a dome with a blue gel at the bottom that said it was its food. The instructions were to replant when it out grew the dome and when the food was gone.
@@midnightcryptworx What they are selling you is basically vials of tissue cultured plants. The gel is full of hormones and nutrients to make cells grow. basically you inoculate it with some tissue sample from a VFT and it grows new plants for you. Transitioning them from this state to soil is a bit tricky though, you have to keep the humidity up and not let it burn in direct sunlight until the plant is growing again. Good news is that it sounds like you are past the biggest hurdle if it's resumed growing.
@@TheBonsaiJungle Ohhhh I didn't know that... Make a lot of sense. Yes I think the problem might have been is that I burned them bc I put it right outside after repotting. I live in Florida with high humidity so that shouldn't be a problem. I wish I could post a pic on here to show you but I'm pretty sure it is regrowing itself so yay! Thank you so much for the advice!
Paul Beck these two crappy ones I got from the local nursery, but the rest of my plants come from flytrapstore.com, Sarracenia northwest, curious plant, predatory plants, Cook’s carnivores, eBay sellers, Facebook ICPS sales, and trades with other growers. I probably forgot some sellers.
I am posting a video "Venus flytrap winter care tips". I have this plant for months. I one back in 2015 I had for three years and when left it, it was large and healthy.
In the USA I’ve only ever seen them sold in peat moss (no perlite mixed in though) or in straight sphagnum in the Home Depot/Lowe’s kits. The issue is that it’s usually low quality grade stuff or it’s tainted with minerals of the store was watering it with hard water, which almost 100% they were unless it’s a specialty nursery with a RO unit on hand specifically for their carnivorous plant section.
@@TheBonsaiJungle ive bought a plant from a store and it seems like its in high nutrient compost and had tap water on it, it seems healthy for now, but is it too late to save it???
1234LMAO12345 it depends. If the rhizome is still tan in color and mostly firm, and there still some green parts of leaves above the soil it can be saved given the right conditions, mainly proper care from now on and gradual acclimation to high light.
Maria Guerrero you could, ive mixed peat and sphagnum some times when I was lazy and running low on ingredients, however I still recommend using 100% long fiber sphagnum if you want optimal growth.
Sand will work but make sure it’s pool filter sand. Other sand can be any assortment of small rocks which will leach minerals (pools sand is pure silica). You can water from the top though, all plants get rained on in the wild.
Rugged Shells they are most likely ok, but personally I only recommend using sphagnum moss. It not too different in price and it seems to boost their growth more than peat.
one thing i would add is that you should rinse you soil . off subject but it made a big difference in my sundews using peat moss / sand mix. no funny stuff growing on top
That's often recommended, but with good quality substrates I haven't really felt the need to do it. I never have done a TDS check but everything seems fine so far so I never worried about it. But for stuff growing on top: if the spores (of fungus or moss) are present in the substrate they would grow anyways no matter if you rinse it or not. In those cases usually sterilization is needed, but I've only experienced this with cheaper quality sphagnum (and also outside since junk (spores) gets everywhere or when a nursery send me a plant potted with junk already in the soil and it inevitably spreads to my other plants even if I remove it when I repot the plant after opening the package.
@@TheBonsaiJungle a little late , but thanks for the reply. I would add that I don't grow my sundews sitting in water, that probaby helps keeping the funny stuff off the top. and you are correct, when you put them outside all the junk can get on them, but that is called mother nature. if plants didn't like mother nature there would be no plants. but I think it is good to give your little baby plants a chance to get ahead of mother nature when indoors. but when outside I think the good old sunlight , no fake sunlight, takes care of everything, jest like in mother nature
I never knew that Kylo ren was so good at repotting flytraps. 😂
OMG!!!! I KNEW he looked familiar! And I was so in love with him!
Kylo Ren face, sounds like Obama.
Couldn't be Obama, didn't hear any lies or race baiting.
@@TheFreshPeddler God, you're pathetic.
@@TheFreshPeddler Awe... Still hurt huh?
I always find after repotting it may look strange, ugly or clumped in patches. It is normal and it will fix itself as it settles into the new pot, kinda like moving house
When Kylo Ren give you great information on how to take care of your Venus Fly traps!!!
You sound kind of like Obama lol. Really enjoy your videos! Very helpful!
Ashley Humbert good days when he was president..
Haha he does actually!
Na it's Obama whom sounds like this dude😅
nice observation. Needed a good laugh
Uuuhhhhh let me be clear
I put my vft in a orchid pot. Glazed ceramic with holes throughout and a small dish attached to the bottom for humidity. Had a hard time finding spag moss or peat without added nutrients, but I did find some. Mixed in perlite and set it outside (western nebraska) plenty of sun!
I'll keep you posted on how the orchid pot works.
How did it work out?
"Spoiler" - his plants all die and with the emotional pain he joins the dark side of the force and becomes the Sith known as Kylo Ren.
Just discovered your channel after discovering how cool carnivorous plants are. I have 3 VFT's and one Pitcher Plant (monkey bowl) I'm "working on." I look forward to watching more of them. Keep up the good work!
Hi, thanks for this video. I have a question. I bought my death cube VFT a week ago and I ordered some carniverous plant soil (peat moss + pearlite) and have a new plastic pot (4 in diameter, 5-6 in deep) ready to put it in. Should I repot this plant as soon as possible or should I wait a while first? Thanks for any help!
I have read that the ph of spagnum peat moss is more acidic and spagnum moss is more neutral ph. What have you found is the difference in growth for the VFT with both these medium? Why do you perfer one over the other? I am curious. Thanks
When He Speaks they just grow a lot better in he Sphagnum moss
Honestly, you are such an inspiration!
Question. Which produces better results? Sphagnum or Soil? Could I do a mixture of both?
Eli McCoy pure long fiber sphagnum (high quality one of course, like New Zealand sphagnum) will produce the best results. You can mix it with peat but it’s not as good.
Liguus is there a reason long fiber is better than peat or are you speaking from personal experience? I was thinking maybe because long fiber drains better and isn’t slightly acid like peat moss? But I’m not entirely sure. Would love some insight
Liguus nvm saw you answered in another comment!
You have a very nice voice. I found your video very informative, thanks!
Do I really have to add perlite to Sphagnum moss or just Sphagnum moss is good enough? Sphagnum moss that I bought looks alittle different tho. It’s not that long, medium length green colored.
Let us dry our first then
I find that pure peat moss self-compacts too much an the media becomes sour from anaerobic decomposition. On the other hand, I have grown VFTs in pure perlite, although a 50:50 mixture wicks better.
Thank you for the informative video. Just acquired a VFT and very excited to learn about them and their care.
Me to. I'm trying to find out if I need to repot it. I'm a little hesitant.
why are your venus flytraps solid green with no red? is that a different species or is that a result of some other reason? How long does it take for the trap to open again (and is it a slow process or does it open as rapidly as it closes?). I had heard that a trap will open and close a few times before it dies. Does that include the times it does not have anything to digest? So many questions sorry.
The ones in this video were purchased very recently from a store at the time of recording. Lower light = less coloration. That being said though, venus flytraps grown from seeds all vary slightly in their genetics. Some "typicals" will have traps with deep red coloration inside and others will be mostly green all year, at most developing a very slight peach colored blush in the trap.
Thank you very informative saved my fly trap from the plastic death box
Mine has a ton of traps now, can I repot in a bigger pot?? also its summer here so not dormant. Is March still the best time (UK)?
Nicola Kelleher you can still repot at this time of year.
I have just bought a fly trap. It's looking a bit crowded. Is it OK to repot it now?
Yesterday my Venus Fly Trap got damaged by heavy rain and hail stones. Now all the traps are shut. Will the plant survive or is it going to die? Thanks
njw1383 although it’s not optimal it should survive/
@@TheBonsaiJungle thanks a lot I hope it does
The garden shop I bought my Venus fly trap from, said to keep them in a pot without a drainage hole. That they like it “boggy” and I suppose having no drainage helps. What do you think?
Krista Lynn they are wrong. You should have drainage holes otherwise it will be way too wet and you will get stagnation and algae all over the soil.
Liguus okay, thank you.
You also risk getting root rot. You want to promote long strong roots
False they do need drainage holes because they need to be bottom fed. Yes they do like boggy conditions but you can just add distilled water over the top of the soil and bottom feed.. More in summer less in winter. Keep soil moist during winter dormancy.
@@brklynmafia4621 Bottom fed? All they should get from the bottom is water.
Yes, they like boggy condition, not swampy. A bog has water flowing through it all the time, it is not filled with stagnant water like a swamp.
After re potting, do you keep it in water like you had them at the beginning of the video? At all times, or only some of the time do they sit in a water tray?
Unlike Liguus, I keep mine standing in water year around. I fill the trays to 2 inches by never more than half way up the pot. I prefer 6" or 8" standard round pots for my VFTs.
I don’t really understand dormancy. I just repotted my flytrap and it’s kinda cold outside. I live in LA so it doesn’t go lower than 50. Should I put the trap in the fridge in early December or just leave it alone and let it die and come back on it’s own in the spring?
You may be fine just leaving it outside. LA is pushing it a bit, but the combo of shortened photoperiod and slightly lower temps may be fine for dormancy. There are people who successfully do it outside in south FL. I think the main factor is that you will still have decent sun intensity where you live, so they can continue to grow healthy.
Man those plants look healthy. Your certainly know what you are doing.
I recently ordered a B52 fly trap and as a matter of fact recieved it yesterday and its looking really good, right now I have it under a growlight indoors and am just watering it as the sphagnum moss begins to feel less damp and lightly dries out, im not sure If I should repot it though? Its in a 3inch pot 2inches deep with sphagnum moss as soil I'm not sure though what kind of pot I should get if I do repot it? I've heard a lot of "get a net pot and just have it sit in water" or "get a pot with drainage holes" what do you recommend is the best type of pots for a b52 fly trap?
Ruben Cordova all Venus flytraps have the same care regardless of which cultivar it is. A regular plastic pot works the best, with a net pot it can dry out too fast, or rot since it has to be sitting in water to wick up enough moisture. A 3.5 inch wide X 5 inch deep pot will be good to accommodate a fully grown plant. You can of course get something a bit larger if you want. The main idea is that an oversized pot will be better than getting one that’s too small for the vft, since you will get roots growing out the bottom and a higher rate of the sphagnum drying out.
Is this Mix also good for Drosera and Pitchers together with Venus Flytrap in one pot?
Really enjoy your videos! Very helpful! offers many good things
I just got my plants in a few days ago. I think they were dormant when I got them because they were short & shriveled, but still green? My mistake was in thinking I only got 2 plants. Apparently, there were 3 rhizomes in each plant. Do I need to separate them into 6 plants? I kind of hate to mess with them because they are starting to look better. The shipping was pretty rough on them. I don’t want to traumatize them with repotting after they seem settled in. (They are my class “pets” so I can’t kill them.)
Teresa Wise you don’t need to divide them, you can just leave them in clumps. Weird that the leaves were shriveled, possibly a shipping issue or kept too dry before they were sent out. As long as the rhizome is white and firm they should re-sprout.
What do you recommend for having the flytraps in direct sun but exposed to some wind? The wind tends to dry the sphagnum moss quickly, sometimes daily. Thanks!
In situations like that either go with 100% sphagnum that you compact a bit more, or stand it in a shallow water tray. I do this in the middle of summer, especially if I'm leaving for a vacation. The tray should be about a 1/2 inch of water and just needs to be refilled when it dries out.
Get the plants into a bog pot with no drainage at the bottom, this will serve as a reservoir. Only make holes 2-3 inches up the bog pot so water is always present somewhere in the soil
Hi , I'm from South Azerbaycan. Telling me to feed a trap every 15 days . is it correct? Please guide me . Feed all the traps doesn't that destroy the Venuses?
No, you can feed it much less often. Even one insect for the whole plant each month is fine. You can also feed every trap on the plant, and you are correct they will die sooner afterwards, but with the additional food it also grows quicker to replace the leaves so you shouldn’t notice very much of a change .
Question: Just got my first vft last week and it's still small but with a few new baby traps, can I divide or is it better to just leave it as is? I'm growing in a grow tent with 78-80 temp and 49-54% humidity. Would greatly appreciate a response 😊 Amazing videos btw very informative and easy to understand.
Dj Andre I would let it “relax” a bit longer if you just received it.
@@TheBonsaiJungle like for a month? And is 48-54% humidy okay for them? I'm from the Philippines btw
@@djandre9242 Yes, I would say at least a month. The humidity is fine, they don't really need any specific humidity level.
@@TheBonsaiJungle Thank you very much! 🙏😊
Just repotted mine big venus using this vid, hoping for the best 🤞
Hi man. Got trouble findin perlite in Finland. I have some pumice... was wondering could pumice work instead of perlite? About watering.. would lake/river water work instead of rain water?
Thanks
The pumice should work, but lake/river water won't. The whole point is to not have any dissolved solids in it, and lake/river water will likely be high in dissolved minerals.
Can I repot it when it’s in dormant
I’ve heard that mixing Sphagnum moss with horticultural sand is best. Is this true? Thanks for any advice.
xTwilightWolvesx no, the sand will get washed out of the sphagnum immediately. Its better to use pure sphagnum, or mix in a bit of perlite like I did here.
Liguus Thanks for the quick response.
I have two of them in sphagnum but the sphagnum is turning like green is that normal I mean the plants are fine but I'm kind of concerned?? Should I put new sphagnum??
Maria Guerrero if kept very humid or wet algae will start to grow on the sphagnum. If the plants are young then it’s best to replace that top layer.
Hello. Question here,which one between peat moss and spaghnum moss are more likely to get root rot?
In my experience peat moss will hold more moisture & become anaerobic quicker, so you are more likely to experience rot if you use peat.
@@TheBonsaiJungle I see... thanks for the information. Have a nice day ✌
Do you keep yours sitting in water? Or do you just keep an eye on them & water when it needs it?
Dulce Amor Gamez I don’t like sitting mine in water. I just water them when they start drying out.
@@TheBonsaiJungle thanks for your quick response!😊😊
@@TheBonsaiJungle The question is Why you do that ? isnt sitting in water is more efficiency to keep the media still mois ?
Panglima Tianfeng sitting in water promotes rot, especially during colder parts of the year. I prefer to just water them like a regular plant. I only really have to water them for maybe 60 seconds, 3x per week using a watering can with distilled water for my collection of 40 Venus flytraps. Not very difficult and like I said it prevent me from having rot issues like I did when they were sitting in water all the time.
@@TheBonsaiJungle dou you have the video demo to watering your plants ?
and do you make a hole on the bottom pot ?
Hi, I’ve just brought my fly trap from the shop and am about to repot it, I was just wondering if it’s okay for me to put it in the garden in the direct sunlight each day for 4-6 hours in a tray with 1cm of distilled water or whether I should transition the plant into direct sunlight as to not burn the plant, or place the plant in a shaded area of my garden? Thank you ☺️
it likely didn't get enough sun at the shop (unless they already had it outdoors in full sun) and would be best in a shady spot that gets morning sun for about two weeks, then can get transitioned to full sun.
Liguus okay, sounds good! Thank you so much for replying! My last Venus fly trap turned black/brown and crispy within the first 4 hours😕 so I’m hoping for better results this time round 🙌🏻
Sphagnum moss versus Peat moss repot, which one grew back bigger and healthier?cheers
Sphagnum moss gives better results, at least in my climate (north IL)
I have always used a mix of 1 part sphagnum moss, 1 part perlite (or silica sand) & 1 part peat sphagnum moss. I was told that the peat sphagnum is needed to lower the PH, since sphagnum moss (& perlite) has an almost neutral pH and Venus Flytraps need soil on the acidic side - around 5.
I got my first venus fly trap! It was from my mom and she didn't take proper care it was in the wrong soil and she was giving it the wrong water and since it is my first time i bought everything i need for it but i planted it sorta right I think the only problem is that the pot is way to big and i might of not planted it right because it looks a little droopy is that normal?
They will be droopy after being repotted (for about 1.5 weeks) but should recover. For one plant the size of the pot shouldn't be too large, however shouldn't make too much of a difference. maybe 4 - 5 inch diameter.
@@TheBonsaiJungle Okay thanks!
@Liguus I received a small venus plant with baby's all over and it came wrapped in peat moss but I removed it and potted only in sphagnum and put it in a tray with distilled water. Should I repotted in peat moss I'm kind of worried I removed the peat moss. Also with sphagnum can it only have water like for 4 days and let it without water for 2 days?? I saw a video about that but with peat moss would that work with sphagnum??
Switching the substrate is no issue. I’ve reported from peat into sphagnum many times after receiving plants. Sitting in water is not required either, as long as the moss is moist to the touch the plant will be fine. I don’t sit mine in water like other people do, I find it only increased the chance of rot.
How often you need to water depends on a number of conditions unique to you alone. The schedule you mentioned might work for a lot of people, but wouldn't work for me in Western Oregon as the planting media would get too dry during that two days without water in the summer.
Just monitor your plant daily until you find what is needed. As long as the moss is damp at the top, you will be OK. Personally, I have far too many pots to do that - so my pots all sit in shallow trays of water. I just add water to the trays whenever they go dry.
Hi, may I know what could possibly happen if the rhizomes are not deep enough?
Ty for the video and links! Just bought a baby from Lowe’s. Needs repotting badly. Would it kill it to do it now? I have a great place for it to grow. Indirect lighting with triple pane Windows so no chill. I can also feed bloodworms if you recommend (i’m subscribing to your channel but this is the only video I’ve seen so far) thoughts? Thanks in advance for your help!
Carmen Conners if you are going to keep it indoors and there’s no chance of strong cold/freezing you can repot it now with no problem.
Carmen Conners feeding bloodworms isn’t very necessary now; and as it gets further into dormancy they hardly shut and digest it anyways.
@@TheBonsaiJungle thank you so much!! I’ll go ahead and repot then. When should I think about feeding next? March?
Also do you have a website?
Carmen Conners yes, as soon as it’s warm enough for them to be outside wait about two weeks and they can start eating again (two weeks because it takes them a while to wake up and be active again). I do not have a website
Can I reuse a pot that had a flower in it if I clean the pot real good, or do you recommend buying a new pot?
If it’s plastic then yes, giving it a good rinse should be fine.
@@TheBonsaiJungle It is plastic, I bought a hyacinth that came in it. When I'm ready to get a vft, I will clean it real good with water only. Thanks for replying!
I have 2 venus fly traps in glass viles with blue gel. Instructions stated to repot once they outgrow the vile, however I am worried of them not making it since they are tiny. I bought organic peat moss and perlite, would you recommend repotting the same way you did even though they are so small?
What you have is a vile os tissue cultured plants. It's kind of a dumb gimmick sold to people since after "deflasking" them they are a bit sensitive. Cannot handle full sun. Honestly when you repot them I would keep the whole pot bagged up in a ziplock to retain humidity and keep it under artificial lights until it acclimates and starts growing again. Or keep it in the shade of a humid greenhouse. Its impossible to put them outside after deflasking since they are sensitive and while being bagged up any direct sunlight will produce way too much heat in the bag and cook them.
@@TheBonsaiJungle Thanks for replying! I live a few blocks from the beach here in California so it's quite humid. I will try the ziploc suggestion. I am hopeful for them to survive since I've been watching your videos all of my other plants are perfectly healthy so let's see how it goes with my venus fly traps 😃💚
@Liguus It would be really interesting if you bought the venus plant glassbiles in gel and show us the process.
@@grfamily4903 The biggest problem, like all tissue cultures in 100% humidity, is that they are extremely sensitive to humidity changes. They need to be acclimated slowly out of direct sunlight so the plant cells can harden.
Can I replant using both soils? I kept some of the original sphagnum moss around it and mixed it with the peat moss mixture
Yes, but there's not much point as the peat will wash through the sphagnum and gather at the bottom unless you chop the sphagnum up a lot.
How do I repot a plant if I want it to mature or produce it's biggest traps? Mine formed a big bush with many traps and growth points, but I'm scared of dividing it causing them to be smaller and also scared it will become overcrowded.
it may only produce smaller traps for a short while before going back to normal. There is no perfect way to repot any plant without causing some minor stress. Just do it as carefully as you can or consider slip-potting into a large planter.
@@TheBonsaiJungle Thanks a lot for your advice.
Do you water your flytraps by misting, pouring water on the top, or do you water from the bottom?
λ-Φ Rypht Φ-λ i pour water on top like every other plant.
@@TheBonsaiJungle Thanks mate
Hi! Which mix grew better? The peat moss + perlite or the New Zealand spag moss + perlite? :)
gainswithkathy they grow better in sphagnum for me.
I panted these in my backyard which is mostly sand. It's growing like crazy. No peat moss, not distilled water. Just put in the dirt and it grows.
@@jzizzles7799 where do you live? if it's within the native range: NC,SC, even GA or FL then the native soil would be a mix appropriate for the plant. If not then it's not going to survive for much longer.
@@TheBonsaiJungle Southern CA. Its been 4 months planted under a lime tree. catching a lot of spiders and flies.
@@jzizzles7799 In my opinion that is risking it since the tap water minerals can build up and if you forget to water it during very hot weather it can turn to toast, but experimentation is good. How long has it been growing like that? Hopefully it works out for many years and this can be useful data for cultivation.
I heard that you shouldn’t use ceramic pots becuse they can contain minerals that aren’t good for the plant is there a way around it ? Or just stick to plastic sorry I’m picky
Adriana R. Use plastic. Ceramic/terra-cotta can potentially leach minerals
@@TheBonsaiJungle Unless you use glazed ceramic, which is quite expensive if you have more than a few plants. But if you use one - make sure it has a drain hole in the bottom.
watching your vidoes! I just killed two really small clusters of flytraps given to me and im not sure if im doing right on the third one but im still confused about the water requirements and how wet should the sphagnum be. A little help?
Hey Eykey just make sure it’s moist at all times. Give it a good soak, then leave the pot standing until the top dries a bit (maybe one or two days) and water again. The main point is to not have them sitting in water all the time. In the summer I water them every day since they are outside in full sun but the tray drains so that they have “wet feet”.
@@TheBonsaiJungle I leave mine sitting in water all the time and they grow fantastically. For a 4" tall pot, I only have 1" - 1.5" standing water and add more water to the tray when the tray is just damp. For a 5" or 6" tall pot, I fill the water tray to 2" deep.
after repotting how many days will it stabilize? what danger signs will I watch out for? thanks in advance.
DIY & Hobbyist Couple PH it depends on its previous growing conditions, if it was in a dark air conditioned stored, mailed in the heat, whether its acclimated to full sun already or not, size, etc. on average I would say new growth should resume in about 2 weeks.
@@TheBonsaiJungle Thanks for the fast response. It's already acclimated to full sun. the reason I repotted it is because the soil doesn't drain well anymore. It's like it has compacted or something. but if my proccedure of repotting is wrong how many days will it show sign of dying?
@@TheBonsaiJungle I'm worried because when I removed the old moss it has short roots. or I might have cut its roots. but I just planted it
anyway.
DIY & Hobbyist Couple PH as the rhizome grows so do new roots so it’s not unusual to see only shorter roots when repotting. There should not be any dramatic effects like the plant dying...if it’s stressed after reporting you just won’t see any new leaves growing for two or so weeks.
@@TheBonsaiJungle thank you very much!^^
A few questions i just bought my 1st plants. perlite vs vermiculite thoughts on which is better and why. Why are you not a fan of peat moss. What about a 33% mix of peat sphagnum and perlite?
Perlite is way better than vermiculite. I would not use vermiculite at all since it leeches minerals into the soil. I am not a fan of peat moss simply based on comparing the growth of my plants in sphagnum vs. peat. They seem to grow way better in pure Sphagnum, or sphagnum mixed with a bit of perlite. Others have noticed this as well. They will still grow with 1/3 or peat in the mix but your don't really need it.
@@TheBonsaiJungle thank for your input
Kylo Ren: Started indoor gardening after lightsaber was lost in battle.
I bought two and it was sitting by my kitchen window, this is in Vegas, the traps were turning brown, I water it and revived it, then cut out the dead blackness, I just want to know if it is going to survive, should I repot it or leave it until it is healthy
thanks
Mashwe Hla it really depends on the previous care. If the store or nursery was watering very frequently with tap water that has a high TDS it would be better to repot as the peat moss will soak up minerals. Kitchen windows rarely provide enough light though, which is the next potential issue. Since you are in Vegas direct sun may be a bit too much especially since it needs to acclimate to higher light conditions. Is there anywhere outside you can put it which gets morning sun only, or dappled sunlight near a tree? If nothing else you may want to consider buying a Sansi growlight off amazon if the plant is looking unhealthy even after a month or two.
I have a pot thats 4 inches wide 6 inches deep. Is this too big for 1 plant that size?
No, that size is fine
I just got two new Venus flytraps 3 days ago. Then I realized there is a baby under a bigger one I the same pot. Could you please give me some tips on what to do?
Just leave it until the leaves are at least 1.5 inches long. Then you can divide it.
@@TheBonsaiJungle They are still in the same pots we bought them in. We got two. I am trying very hard to make them stay alive with limited resources.
How does one create their own type/species/version of VFT? Ex: the DC XL B52.
cross-pollinating flowers and hoping a seed-grown inherits the right genes for above average phenotype expression
If I report my Venus fly trap into a bigger pot will it grow bigger, mine doing well, but it's kinda small
The pot size simply gives it the room to grow bigger, but the correct amount of sunlight (full sun) and insects are what’s going to drive the growth.
@@TheBonsaiJungle thank you
How long do you keep the flytrap in the 3 inch pot
I made the mistake of not separating a small plant away from a big plant with the plants out of the pot. I just pulled the smaller one out with a clump of sphagnum moss. I got the whole root and plant. But a month later in the new pot it was dead. I must have damaged the cross roots or it just didn't like the new pot.
Great video and Info... Thanks for sharing!!!
Is it the same procedure for drosera spatulata specifically for removing the old moss down to the rhizome?
David Grant pretty much, you don’t have to get every last piece, but I generally “bare root” all my sundews when I repot them
What about a 75/25 mix using both?
Can you use sphagnum moss and and the soil
Why do you prefer sphagnum over peat moss?
I have tried both and they grow more vigorous and with less potential health issues when I use sphagnum.
I need help with my venus fly traps.
Okay, so my Venus flytrap was doing fine until 3 days ago. The moss started to turn green and the water was also turning green what do I do?
Insta Apexzz it’s being watered too much + the stagnant water is growing algae
Liguus will this affect my plant any way?
Insta Apexzz Yeah Id recommend letting your VFT to slightly dry before watering again also make sure your pot has good drainage, if the plant sits in water for to long it will cause root rot.
Bro I thought that was a giant ass Capri Sun pouch to the right.
Mine has a lot f traps now and it’s the beginning of August. Can I still repot them?
If you don't disturb the media around the plant too much, then they can be transplanted any time of the year. If I were to do so during the summer, I would leave the transplanted plants in a place shaded from midday and early afternoon sun for about a week before moving them into full sunlight.
Would it be ok if I use sphagnum moss just by its self?
Eric Castillo yes.
Can you over the top of the medium with live moss? I would like to do that for aesthetic
dragom2009 you can. From my experience if works best with long fiber sphagnum on the bottom and live on top. With peat moss underneath the water-wicking doesn’t work as well to the point where the live moss is sustained, unless it’s in a very humid terrarium.
Hi there, I grow all types of carnivorous plants , from neps to venus flytrap, heliamphora, cephalotus, I have tried all media combinations & can honestly tell you just using long fiber sphagnum premium besgrow brand for your neps, heli's & cephs will work better than anything I've currently tried, when repotting Sarracenia & my flytraps & sundews I use LFS petal grade from besgrow, I grow all plants but my neps outside all year around, experimenting at acclimatizing both my cephs & heliamphoras during our late winter season here in New Zealand, the part I live New Zealand is fairly temperate conditions even during winter, anyway it's been about a month or so & my cephs & heliamphora are loving their outside growing condtions, the type of heli's I grow are all Heliamphora Tequila. Cheers.
if you say the spaghnum moss is the better one, so why you still use the peat moss again ?
why you didnt use spaghnum moss for all your plants ?
Panglima Tianfeng I do use sphagnum for all my plants. The other vft was planted in peat just as a demonstration for the video. It was repotted into sphagnum after I finished recording. Peat works better for some climates or greenhouse growers so I wanted to include it in this video as a valid option for people.
@@TheBonsaiJungle oh my god i just bought 2 kg of peat moss and useless. thankyou fore the info
Panglima Tianfeng the peat is not “useless”, the difference is just regular growth in peat vs about 50% better growth In sphagnum.
It's impossible to find a small bag of the typical non-Miracle-Gro brand perlite around here. Had to resort to purchasing some online.
Wise Snake time to buy a big bale and start reselling smaller ziplocks on eBay 😂👌🏻
@@TheBonsaiJungle Lol! That's exactly how I ended up purchasing mine.
Can u make a video for growth comparison for sphagnum and peatmoss? And same as with using osmocote for vft and sundews
I am working on a number of experiment videos however I need to take footage over multiple months/years to reach a reasonable conclusion so it will be a while.
Can o do the second method for some sarracinia pitcher plants I got a pot that came with both pitchers and fly traps and I like to separate them to their own pots any advice would be appreciated
Nuu-style강뮤지 you can, but its opposite with sarracenia: they seem to grow better in the peat and perlite instead of the sphagnum.
@@TheBonsaiJungle oh ok then I will go with the first method for when I separate them thanks
Is it possible for me to use a specific type of dirt? If so what is it called? Also are all of the things in the description expensive? Great video by the way 💖
cap'n olives not really. It has to be sphagnum or peat. They are not expensive.
@@TheBonsaiJungle okay! Thanks
@@malia5092 A 2 cubic foot compressed bale of sphagnum peat moss is under 30 dollars and 2 cubic feet of perlite is around $15. Unless you have hundreds of plants, that will last you for years.
@@buggsy5 ohh! Yeah. My mother has her own garden and I was thinking up a gift for her. Thanks ☺
@@malia5092 You can buy small bags of perlite and sphagnum peat moss at almost any nursery, big box stores and hardware stores with gardening departments. You can also buy premixed media at some of the online CP dealers - like FlytrapStore.com or growcarnivorousplants.com. You can get a 1 gallon ziplock bag full for $4.95 plus shipping from Sarracenia Northwest,
Love these videos. Just started my vft journey a few months ago. I repotted it (maybe too soon bc it was just a baby..not sure) but it turned black after about a month. I got it to where now it's getting green places again as well as growing new traps so I think I turned it around. I hope so.
Was it just dormant? what conditions was it kept in?
@@TheBonsaiJungle I'm not sure. I bought it in a dome with a blue gel at the bottom that said it was its food. The instructions were to replant when it out grew the dome and when the food was gone.
@@midnightcryptworx What they are selling you is basically vials of tissue cultured plants. The gel is full of hormones and nutrients to make cells grow. basically you inoculate it with some tissue sample from a VFT and it grows new plants for you. Transitioning them from this state to soil is a bit tricky though, you have to keep the humidity up and not let it burn in direct sunlight until the plant is growing again. Good news is that it sounds like you are past the biggest hurdle if it's resumed growing.
@@TheBonsaiJungle Ohhhh I didn't know that... Make a lot of sense. Yes I think the problem might have been is that I burned them bc I put it right outside after repotting. I live in Florida with high humidity so that shouldn't be a problem. I wish I could post a pic on here to show you but I'm pretty sure it is regrowing itself so yay! Thank you so much for the advice!
Where do you buy your traps? Thanks for all the info!
Paul Beck these two crappy ones I got from the local nursery, but the rest of my plants come from flytrapstore.com, Sarracenia northwest, curious plant, predatory plants, Cook’s carnivores, eBay sellers, Facebook ICPS sales, and trades with other growers. I probably forgot some sellers.
Great thanks ! There are many available here in N E Indiana!
Can I use "Miracle Grow" peat moss for my venus flytrap?
No, that ha a lot of fertilizer added to the soil, it's going to severely harm your plant.
@@TheBonsaiJungle even if it has 1.18% fertilizer?
Ps: i can believe this video is so old and still answered questions.
@@jonathanmolina1140 ANY fertilizer is too much for carnivorous plants.
can I reproduce it now ?
Squish squish squish squish.......... it’s moist enough...... 8:15
wen do i water my venus fly trap
Diamond Plays when the surface of the soil/substrate starts to dry out, approximately every 3 days, 2 in the summer.
Thx u so much
Really helpful - thank you
I am posting a video "Venus flytrap winter care tips". I have this plant for months. I one back in 2015 I had for three years and when left it, it was large and healthy.
Does pot depth matter or is there a preferred pot depth?
Mr Anderson it must be at least 4 inches deep.
@@TheBonsaiJungle Thanks. One last question ❔ is it ok 👌 to NOT separate the plants ?
@@black_thoughtz777 yes you can leave them together.
@@TheBonsaiJungle should I feel the pot completely to top or can there be a gap between the soil and edge of pot? Does it even matter?
Mr Anderson there can be a gap as long as there’s at least 4-6 inches of sphagnum or peat for the VFT to grow in
Does it matter if I pot them in terra cotta pots?
Yep: don’t.
why are they always sold in compost them?
In the USA I’ve only ever seen them sold in peat moss (no perlite mixed in though) or in straight sphagnum in the Home Depot/Lowe’s kits. The issue is that it’s usually low quality grade stuff or it’s tainted with minerals of the store was watering it with hard water, which almost 100% they were unless it’s a specialty nursery with a RO unit on hand specifically for their carnivorous plant section.
@@TheBonsaiJungle ive bought a plant from a store and it seems like its in high nutrient compost and had tap water on it, it seems healthy for now, but is it too late to save it???
1234LMAO12345 it depends. If the rhizome is still tan in color and mostly firm, and there still some green parts of leaves above the soil it can be saved given the right conditions, mainly proper care from now on and gradual acclimation to high light.
Can I use deer moss as an alternative?
derek johnn no
Can you mix the moss with the soil
Maria Guerrero you could, ive mixed peat and sphagnum some times when I was lazy and running low on ingredients, however I still recommend using 100% long fiber sphagnum if you want optimal growth.
I was told to use sand if you do not have perlite with you and also avoid to water from the top as the traps are really fragile
Sand will work but make sure it’s pool filter sand. Other sand can be any assortment of small rocks which will leach minerals (pools sand is pure silica). You can water from the top though, all plants get rained on in the wild.
@@TheBonsaiJungle Yes, these are outdoor plants, I think for beginners just to avoid the misconceptions of watering
I found some mixtures on amazon should I use them.
Rugged Shells they are most likely ok, but personally I only recommend using sphagnum moss. It not too different in price and it seems to boost their growth more than peat.
one thing i would add is that you should rinse you soil . off subject but it made a big difference in my sundews using peat moss / sand mix. no funny stuff growing on top
That's often recommended, but with good quality substrates I haven't really felt the need to do it. I never have done a TDS check but everything seems fine so far so I never worried about it. But for stuff growing on top: if the spores (of fungus or moss) are present in the substrate they would grow anyways no matter if you rinse it or not. In those cases usually sterilization is needed, but I've only experienced this with cheaper quality sphagnum (and also outside since junk (spores) gets everywhere or when a nursery send me a plant potted with junk already in the soil and it inevitably spreads to my other plants even if I remove it when I repot the plant after opening the package.
@@TheBonsaiJungle a little late , but thanks for the reply. I would add that I don't grow my sundews sitting in water, that probaby helps keeping the funny stuff off the top. and you are correct, when you put them outside all the junk can get on them, but that is called mother nature. if plants didn't like mother nature there would be no plants. but I think it is good to give your little baby plants a chance to get ahead of mother nature when indoors. but when outside I think the good old sunlight , no fake sunlight, takes care of everything, jest like in mother nature
thank you very informative
what about using coco coir instead of moss?
thayne559 people have had success using the choir but you need to make sure you desalinate it first, checking the TDS after rinsing.
@@TheBonsaiJungle Thanks!
Can I use loam soil for my VFT?
Ranny Maravilla no
@@TheBonsaiJungle Make that - NO!
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Thankyou
I’ve still never used pearllite yet. I have used sand so far