Creality CR-10s vs Tevo Tornado Comparison
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
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contact@3dprintingcanada.com Jason walks us through the comparison pro's and con's of the Creality CR-10s vs the Tevo Tornado.
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Follow Us On Social Media:
Facebook: / 3dprintingcanada
Instagram: / 3d.printing.canada
Twitter: / 3dprintingcan
Our Address:
36 Ditton Dr., Unit #3
Hamilton, Ontario
L8W 0A9
Telephone:
+1 (905) 963-9066
Sales Email:
contact@3dprintingcanada.com
That "button" with the sticker is a buzzer, crushed my initial expectations for the video :(
The proof is in the pudding. Why not print something with both of them and compare that?
wish I saw this before spending 20 min and no print!
Exactly. I just want results.
pointless point: longer bed heating! When you have a 65-hour (234,000 seconds!) printing session it doesn''t really make sense to talk about a bunch of seconds/minutes that a heating takes, at all.
If you try printing abs or polycarbonate and have a cr-10, reaching 85-100 degrees can take a VERY long time. I can reach 95 degrees in 2min 13sec on the tevo from ambient and the bed holds its heat for a long time.
You're right though...When you're printing something that's going to take days to finish anyways, who cares. When I want to heat it up to produce a 1 hour part in ABS, waiting 15min for the cr-10 to heat up to 90c adds 25% to my production time.
im not sure heating time matters so much but the silicone heaters are much better. they use less current so it's a little less of a fire risk in my book & they can also get up to much higher temperatures. i think the usual max is 220. sometimes you get a material that needs a 120c bed & the cr10 is not gonna do that.
Awesome video. I really liked your attention to detail to each of the printers. With the Tevo having more room for expansion on the board I would like to see your thoughts on potential upgrades. Thank you for your valuable insight. It is really refreshing to hear from someone that has great attention to detail as well as an unbiased opinion.
Thanks for the feedback.
I think I provided a similar comment on the other video and mentioned the bed wire strain relief and spool holder. I am hesitant to offer "upgrade" recommendations unless there is a specific concern or issue you're addressing. I'd also be assuming a certain level of competency from an electrical, mechanical and software perspective.
All that said, IF IT WERE MINE, I'd be adding a second Z leadscrew and either mechanically attach it to the first leadscrew for dual-z, OR add a second stepper driver and configure for a second Z-axis stepper. Mechanically attaching the two would require longer-than-stock leadscrews so they stick out the top.
I'd be replacing at least the X & Y stepper drivers with tmc-2130's for quieter stepper operation and maybe even attempt to use 'sensorless' homing allowing the drivers to detect when the end of the X and Y is reached instead of limit switches, just for fun. Cheap stepper dampers can actually introduce flex and IMHO are a band-aid solution whereas better stepper drivers is the proper fix for noisy operation, not that the Tevo is overly noisy.
Jason, do you have a recommendation on any upgrade kits or plans for adding a second z leadscrew?
Jason, I also checked your website and do not see tmc-2130 drivers on your site. Does your company carry it or plan on carrying it in the future. I see there is a tmc-2100 on your website.
One thing you forgot was PRICE of each and the pro and con on that but very nice video and walk through. I have both But im going more to the Tevo . Thanks for the detailed review.
Nice video. I am still banging my head against a wall with mine lol. ps. The hole with the sticker on it is a buzzer. The sticker can be removed. I think one of the others is a pot for contrast on the LCD. What I would say is CHECK THAT YOUR MACHINE IS NOT FUSED AND SWITCHED ON THE NEUTRAL INSTEAD OF THE LIVE. Mine was and the SSR was also switching the neutral! This meant that, in my case, 230vac was present on the pin at the back of the box whether or not the switch was off. It does not take much imagination to see why this could be lethal, especially considering that the GX-16 connector between the bed cable and box is metal and the wires inside are clamped (check they are tight) with a metal clamp! If possible put a few layers if tape around those wires before clamping. and always unplug from wall if messing around with the heated bed connector or working inside the box! I also replaced the stock 10a fuse in the control box with 3.15a. You may need higher at 110v. 110v may kill you but 230v probably will. Good luck.
I'm wondering if the print time is the same. I notice on Cura 4.3.0 that on a part I normal print that when I added the CR-10 and the Tornado to the printers list that the Tornado takes 4 hours longer then the CR-10. No settings were changed in Cura, just loaded up the different prints. Thanks for the great review Jeff.
I own a tornado from March this year. Glad I made that decision. Simply prints PETG and PLA so far
elastic wire is OK too ? pls
Thanks, this was very helpful. Best overall look at the Tornado I've seen and the comparison to the CR10 is useful.
I Velcro'd a pipe to the top of my Tornado to use as a spool holder, haven't replaced it since.
Remove after washing will be a buzzer.
It's a standard sticker on a buzzer
@24:13 "I would like to see larger nuts." Huehuehuehuehuehue
on the tevo does it have slot for sd card? thax
Are you guys considering 'what to upgrade' videos on these printers to get even better prints?
In the case of the tornado, I think we're going to do a whole series on how to improve/modify it. Stay tuned.
I don't know if I buy that the CR10/CR10S is lower resolution. All of the head to head reviews I have seen that have example prints, the CR10/CR10S prints seem to come out cleaner and better quality. Also I hear that the Tevo has lots of salmon skin problems due to the steppers and you need to buy smoothers to get rid of this. I have a Tevo Tarantula and love the thing, but I'm seriously considering buying a CR10/CR10S over the Tornado as I have heard virtually nothing but good things about them, but I'm happy to be convinced otherwise if these are just calibration issues etc with the Tornado. My experiences with Tevo were quite positive customer service wise.
You're reading about the salmoning on the older tevo not the new ones with the mks board. Plus you can easily swap steppers on the mks board, something you can't do on the creality, resulting in both a silent machine and it will eliminate the salmoning if you have that issue. I have two tornadoes and 4 cr-10s now and they both print equally well, only my tevos are silent with the tmc2130 drivers and they reach abs temps much quicker due to the silicone heater.
Jason
Nah, I watched Nexitechs video about it on the Tevo Tornado amongst others. I never experienced salmoning myself on the Tarantula and I have the MKS board on that and this is an older machine, so I dunno. I have just bought the CR10 and it prints like a boss. Still need to do some tweeking with my settings however. Any recommendations?
Well I just bought my second tornado because I had such good results and upgrade flexibility with the first.
Recommendations specific to what?
Slicer settings mainly. Do you use Cura?
@@BurtMeister yes I use Cura my settings won't help you with the stock Bowden setup since I'm direct drive with Titan aero. For example, you'll likely use 6mm retract and I use 0.8mm with PLA
i actually had to use the empty bank to remap one of the drivers becaust i blew one of the slots
The “remove seal” thing on the Tevo is the buzzer. They come with that sticker on them (I took mine off on my delta)
Makes sense now..thanks. I wondered why they made a cutout for the buzzer when it's not needed. What is the reset button for?
Jason it resets the arduino/mainboard. Basically the same as turning it off and on again, but can be handy if the printer is glitching and needs to be stopped quickly.
I've never felt the need for a reset button, especially since its no easier to access than the on/off switch ;) Thanks for the info.
There's also a hole with a pot which is the display brightness, it was mentioned on another vid i watched.
Interesting that it's a buzzer. Who washes them?
Lee Edward Armstrong you can never have your buzzer too clean, I guess.
i did the spool stuff by just setting the spool on the box it came in
To tighten the leveling screws, all I had to do was put my finger on the top of the screw to keep it from turning. Almost zero effort required.
or i bet couple of drops of CA would work also
Are you sure that the heat bed relay generates that much heat? I confess I do not know what they put in there. However relays that I have used controlling AC from a Arduino generates heat in the order of 100-300 milliwatts. A cpu or motor driver generates way more heat. Thanks for the video, trying to decide between these two printers.
1thensome2 you likely were using mechanical contact relays, not SSR's and/or not swinching large loads. The documentation is readily available online which specifies the heat dissipation requirements at specific amp loads. SSR's generate heat in the neighbourhood of [voltage drop] x [amps] = [heat dissipation in Watts]
So, as an example, if we had a 700w silicone heater it would be 1.5 x 6.4 = ~ 9.5 watts of heat. So the case likely helps act as a heatsink but we'd probably just be fine with ample airflow.
Quick Follow-up; From the below whitepaper:
"Solid State Relays can operate reliably without heat sinks up to approximately 5 amps of load
current depending upon model, duty cycle and ambient temperature. Free air ratings of
traditional panel mount SSRs may be as high as 8 to 10 amps, but this rating relies on the SSRs
exposed metal base plate acting as a heat sink, meaning that it must be exposed to ambient air."
Assuming our enclosed box counts as "free air" we're likely fine, but if it is a 700w heater we're beyond this guideline threshold of ~5amps and our ambient temp is already quite warm. www.crydom.com/en/tech/white-papers/hs_wp_hs.pdf
Thanks
Good enough comparison but you were definitely inventing cons for the Creality...
buildtack doesn't work well for abs, it bubbles and peels off
What is the prices.
there about the same at around $400
Tevo Tornado literaly copied the Creality Cr-10 Design. Like: I give you my homework, but make sure to change it, so that it doesn't look too similiar.
actually they all copied prusa but its all open source
@@3dprintprobie92 Yeah, exactly. But it feels like that there is no originality or innovation. Sure copy the design, use the design as inspiration, but make/mould it into something new. Make it interesting and tell: ''why we should buy your 3d printer instead of creality'' kinda stuff.
when i level my tevo tornado i just press tzhe bed down and turn it then
Pressing the bed down on a corner puts strain on the undercarriage and is likely to throw off the level. Glue the heads to the glass bed on top so they don't spin.
what about 3d printing a piece that fits in the head of the bolt like an allen key and holds the corners of the bed
@@vega1287 that can get in the way at the front left corner and there would still be nothing other than increased friction
what do youmean just frictioon my design would have a hegagonal bit that holds the screw it would belike taping a allan key to the build plate
@@vega1287 I'd love to see the design. I think you're taking the "everything must be 3d printed" approach. One dab of RTV silicone and call it done.
That music is ultra annoying!
I put super glue on the screws lol
frozenwalkway I ended up putting silicone :)
"Remove after washing" jajajaja only the people that build electronic projects with microprocessors and components and of curse buzzers can understand what it means !!!
Quit saying zed, you are not British.
Most Canadians, including myself, say zed. 🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦
@@issaclarke3449 Well I stand corrected, I learned something new. I have a lot of British friends always annoyed me when we talked about my 240z. Not to mention they cant say Nissan right either. 😄