Great timing on this as my girlfriend just unboxed and set mine up. We hate the bed surface and those bed leveling knobs/spinning screws are frustrating. It's quite a chore cleaning that adhesive gunk off the build plate. Thanks!
I found a local store that sells cheapo picture frames and used the glass from one to cover my Tevo build plate. Picture glass is usually just 2mm thick in small-ish frames, just like mine. :¬) The thinner glass heats up reasonably quickly too. I use glue stick to make the work hold to the glass. Glass cleans up nicely with a blade or sharp scraper, but remove it from the bed any time you want to scrape it or remove a printed object. That saves re-levelling so often.
awesome job mate! ill be going through this list for sure and making every upgrade possible. Im interested to see if i can get the print surfaces you've mentioned, in the UK.. Time to shop around! Thanks again for your hard work :)
I do not own a Tevo Tornado but these video's can be used for thinkering on all 3D printers. Great job again as always from Rui, no BUZZ no FUZZ video's............. do not know if it is mentioned in any video but the isolation of the build plate clips are life savers for those working with 220 volt but also for 24 volt heatbeds. Better not to use those clips at all as they can short out against the heater parts if not isolated correctly also. Thanks Rui.....................
Hi, thank you so much for your feedback. Regarding the clips, i can undestand what you are saying, but in this case, the heatbed has a lot of clearance underneath so you can use the clips as they dont reach the wires.
When ordering one of those print surfaces, do I have to give them the size and location of the holes or just the printer name? Also which one of the 3 print surfaces is your 1st choice? Thanks again
Hi, The mamorubot print surface already has the holes and it's the exact dimension of the tornado heatbed. You just need to select the tevo tornado one. For the printbite+ or the filaprint, you order a 310mmx310mm and you glue to the heatbed or to a glass. If you buy a glass you need to get one with the holes. I bought mine at a local glass manufacturer.
RUI - Awesome overview. On item 2 what size spacers (washers) did you use as far as inner hole diameter and overall diameter on the X axis roller? Also if you ordered them do you have a source with Part numbers? Thanks CB
Hi Charles, The inner diameter is the same as the screw that is going through the wheels. Regarding the outer diameter, it does not matter much since you will use the stock shim to be side by side with the bearing of the wheel. I bought my precision shims locally but i bet you can find them on the internet like ebay for example.
Hello, This video was very helpful and informative and thank you for making it! I do have a question though: where did you get the glass bed? I’ve been trying to find one exactly like the one you had but I couldn’t. I tried window glass, but it wasn’t perfectly flat. If you ordered it online would you mind posting a link to where you got it from? It would help a lot, thanks.
Hi Nathan, I have a local glass manufacturer near my house. They make the glass just how i want to. I have a 4mm tempered glass with the holes for the screws for just 10euros.
Forgot to say great video in previous post, sorry about that! Second question if I might... Do I just need to order the microswiss hotend nozzle or the whole kit? Thanks again! Getting my 2018 Tev o Tornado in just over a week can hardly wait!
ruiraptor I have them installed on my x and y axes, and can recommend them if you're looking for quieter operation. One thing to note; you shouldn't use an anti-vibration mount with the y axis brace in the video as this would directly couple the motor to the frame again which would defeat the object...
#1 What is the thickness of you bracket? Mine is 3mm, looks thicker than yours #2 X-axes, yes, they differ in thickness by 1mm, but one side came already shimmed with 1mm shims, so for me they are equal distance
I think it's a matter of the low price of these printers (compared to ones that cost $1000+) and the fact that 3d printing is still in its infancy. Same was true with PCs in the early days.
Is that a 6" or 8" Dial slipper you're using. Thanks so much for this video and links. I just bought a Tornado.👍👍👍👍👍 Could you give the names of the print surfaces again? I got PrintBrite+ but not the other 2. Amazon has quite a few listed. Thanks
This is all great stuff! I'm thinking of getting a Tornado, so this will help if I do. Question for anyone: Is there a way to upgrade to a dual z motor/screw setup? Does anyone sell a good kit for that, for the Tornado? I'm assuming the ones for the CR-10 wont work with this.
That's interesting... I thought they were different enough to not be compatible for the dual-z motor upgrade. But if they are, that really makes me seriously consider the Tornado.
Hi, the biggest difference between the green tornado and the gold one is the main board. The gold one uses the MKS GEN L board which means that you don't need to buy a new board just to replace the drivers.
ruiraptor TBH the messing around with resistors and the boards is a bit intimidating for me, as I was looking at getting this printer as my first step into 3D printing.
@@yurika12 I don't know if you already got a printer, but as a suggestion, I started with a Monoprice Select Mini V2, which is quite cheap comes already built with no additional setup, the build area is not too large but enough for anything under 120mm perimeter, just put your filament in, level your bed which usually already comes leveled for you and you are ready to use, started my first print in 10 mins after unboxing, super easy to use and understand, now that I feel a bit more comfortable with the 3d printing concept and the machines, I ordered a Tevo Tornado and I'm waiting for the package to arrive :) quite exciting
I am looking to purchase the tornado, here in the United states, who would you recommend I purchase online ? I'd like to try and make sure who ever I purchase from sends me a model with the newest boards/drivers
Christopher Swann I got mine from Banggood, for $320. Literally took 2 days to recieve, I ordered it on the 26th of april and got it on the 28th. So far Im liking it so far, as my very first 3D printer, and as my very first banggod purchase. I ordered the 110v model, for US but they sent me the UK power cable, luckily I had spare PC psu power cables laying around.
HEY THERE BRO WILL THIS DEVICE ZONESTAR Z8X/Z9 - TEVO TORNADO TAKE A STEPPING MOTOR DRIVER LV8727 ??? ALOS WILL IT WORK WITHOUT HOT BED ??? THANK YOU VERY MUCH !!!
Hi, I believe that yes but i don't have one of those printers to test with so I don't guarantee. I don't understand the question regarding the hotbed...
You talked about the heat bed issue. The TEVO Tornado I received about 1 month ago has the Green covered bed, with a Red over-lay pad that I guess is an option, no information on it that I have found yet. Very shortly after using (within a week) the Green has developed bubbles as you described to the point of build failures and basically making it unuseable. You showed other beds, are you suggesting them as a replacement? If so, do they also run on 110V with the same current being supplied and controlled by the TEVO base unit? I am not sure what to do at this point.
Hi Tom, You just need to remove the print surface. The heatbed will be the same. The print surfaces are placed over the heatbed. I will publish a video very soon explaining how to remove the sheet and some tricks that will make it easy.
Please correct me if I'm wrong but from a relative perspective, could you omit the x axis plate Shims and compensate with the angle of the gantry? If anything it would be fractionally sturdier, no?
Hi, Thank you for your comment. Regarding your question, do you mean rotate the vertical beams so that they get the same angle offset as the x axis? If that is the case I find that solution a bit harder to do because to do that you would need to drill bigger holes to the bottom horizontal beams so that you can have the necessary play. I also believe that the bigger holes/play might cause the upper frame to misalign over time due to vibrations. You can add some corner brackets to reinforce and prevent this to happen. You also have the option to just rotate the Y axis beam where the wheels go on but that can also mean some rework. Need to check that. Anyway, it is my opinion that the shims are the correct way to fix this as you keep everything nice and square and you get a solid installation. And please note that with this offset, the wheels are also not squared with the vertical beams because the horizontal x profile is forcing the wheels and green plates to be in that angle as well. And they are not that hard to install. You can do it by removing the wheels with the eccentric nuts on both sides and also the leadscrew nut. Then, unscrew and release the other wheels and this way you can access and install the shims. I was able to install the shims without disassembling the entire x grantry.
ruiraptor thank you for your consideration, you make a good point. I only considered this, because I measured the amount of play on the fixtures of the vertical beams. Thanks again for your good work =]
Most beer and soft drink cans are 0.1 mm. You can punch the hole with a regular paper hole punch, then cut the outline of the washer with scissors. Punch the hole first. It's too hard to hold it after you cut the washer. Stack a couple if needed. Easy and fast to make. Cheap, plus you get a drink.
HI, the answer is very simple...i prefer the print surfaces that stick the filament when they are hot and release when cold. I dont like to force prints out, use masking tape or glue, etc.
The print surface under the default buildtac surface is Glass. Once you clean off all the gunk you have a perfect build surface, just a little hairspray and you are good to go. Buying another surface is a waste of money.
Did you completely miss the portion about how the bed isnt completely flat? Yours may be, but i have a .001 mm gauge that shows the discrepancy very clearly. I've also used hairspray and gluestick with the bed minus the build tack and a separate sheet of glass both. The gluestick was the better option, but required cleaning after every print. The hairspray just makes everything around it a sticky mess over time and was much more of a PITA to clean although it tended to leave a better surface finish on the bottom. Both of which also needed a touch of coaxing to remove from the bed. The Ultrabase literally can be blown off the bed after it cools. So the Ultrabase wins for me. The only downside that i have encountered with the base so far is its intolerance of the nozzle scraping and thus scratching the bed. Oh and maybe extra weight on the Y axis. It also costs less than a roll of cheap PLA, but if money is that tight, i deff understand. Im there at the moment myself. I just prefer the ease of use as well as the guarantee of the print always sticking, so decided on that instead of another PLA roll. Lastly, do you see a affiliate link anywhere? I just share my knowledge with people to potentially help people out. Take it or leave it, dont really care. But i dont like insults for giving my opinion. People sure are rude when they arent face to face with a person. Or are you just this rude all the time?
The new copper ones are the same. The only difference is the board (MKS GEN L), the color and they do not include the print surface on the glass. Rest is the same.
I have a question hopefully someone can answer. I want to get into 3D printing & I'm a complete novice to it, but I'm very technically inclined. Been in the computer industry for over 30 years, can do board level soldering, home automation & work in the security alarm, access control, & surveillance for a living. I'm looking for a printer that can do great printing for the value, but also upgradable if possible. The more I look at reviews on printers the more undecided I'm getting. Thanks in advance.
Hi John, I understand you completely. There are some factors that will determine the choice of the printer such as the print area, how much you want to spend, etc. The tevo tornado is a good choice as you have a good print area, good board (MKS GEN L and can upgrade drivers easily), the AC bed, great firmware from stock and many upgrade versions available and also a big community on facebook.
@@ruiraptor would you recommend anything over a cr10? I'm looking for a largest, most versatile printer, that is the quietest. I used to have a tevo tarantula, but have heard alot of good from the cr10
I don't know when it happened but I got a Tornado for Christmas 2019 and: #1: the motor is mounted to a 3mm metal plate, no bending with the rubber band #2: the washers were already installed #3: had no problems with layer shifts #4: no salmons either had to do #5, #6 and #9 myself #7 someone will always be unsatisfied it is a great printer and don't underestimate how nice that high-voltage bed is!
The rails should be fine but unless you modify the frame to have 2 rails in parallel and with some distance to each other, it does not make much sense as the 6 wheels work fine.
No but you don't really need it. It take about 1/2 hour to manually bet level. I have found that I only have to bed level every once in a while or if I move the printer. Compared to my XYZ printer this manual bed leveling process is so easy. You can add a bed leveling system if you are up to it but you really don't need it. I think even with a bed leveling system you still have to manually bed level once in a while. I have the gold edition and love it.
I think TEVO must have gone out of business. Can't find any parts and their printers are no longer for sale. That really sucks. We have the Tornado and Nereus.
I think you could have been a bit more specific and provided a bit of information. I just bought the Tevo Tornado. I'm coming from a FLSUN QQ Delta and I'll never buy another one even if they were free. Sounds the same as your goofy statement. Mine was put together with plastic screws and broke. Returned for refund. Now what's your excuse?
Plastic screws??!! Facepalm! That's just a disaster. :¬) I didn't expect great things when I bought mine on Gearbest but it was what I could afford at the time and it is for fun, initially. I'd seen reviews, but has also closely examined various images and saw the bad match between the extrusions and the running wheels. So I knew it would need work to make it good. When it arrived it was as expected. I'm a CNC machine setter and have access to the machines if one has some "out" time. So I've machined proper "V" faces into the rails where necessary. But as I started assembling it I found some screws stripping with minimum pressure on the allen key. So I measured the screws and "T" nuts. The threads on the screws were undersize and threads in the nuts were oversize. A recipe for failure. So I purchased alternatives online and waited till they arrived to start assembly again. After finishing the build, I got everything moving as it should and loaded some of their "free" filament and a file to print. Warm up the bed and nozzle? Ok. Bed yes, nozzle no. Check all my wiring. Try again. Cold nozzle. After testing everything, the nozzle heater was dead! (insert swearing here) Ordered two replacements online from a UK supplier. Waited for them. Finally, first print!!! Only two months after receiving the machine. (ok, including the Xmas break) heh, and no, I wasn't bothered enough to return it all the way to Shenzen. ;¬) So later this year I'll be looking for a Creality CR10 or maybe a Prusa, if finances can stretch that far. Or, I may just build my own from scratch. Have you seen the new E3D printer concept? Watch from around the 8 minute mark to hear about it. ua-cam.com/video/jfopGYO0r-M/v-deo.html They are definitely inspiring me to build something.
wow! Sounds like the same boat as I was with the FLSUN QQ Delta. Not only the 3 plastic screws on the build plate but after skype, teamviewer, Repetier, screen sharing and whatever 1 week, He tells me X stitch on one of the Z axis is bad too. Now just how does broken plastic screws relate to a broken micro switch? About that time any decent company would have said hey! We;'re gonna send you a replacement. Put the bad one back in the same box and ship it back. In my (F-bomb) dreams. It had high reviews. Oh well 1 in 50 may have problems okay. I filed a clim with Amazon.So I'm looking and looking, You Tube mostly Thousands or videos Hundreds of 3D stuff. Trying to stay within my finances because I don't have the refund for the FLSUN yet. Looked at the CR-10 and quite a few others. TEVO Tornado (ha I'm a trained weather spotter ha ha) interested me. I made a few friends producing tornado videos and stated studying. I got a few great tips stuff to check right out of the box. I'm still a noob but I am getting a bit better.. Thanks for your story. Take care.
Pardon my ignorance. Poti? glad to hear updates are getting processed. I am not sure how old my unit is thorugh banggood but apparently ill get it wednesday
Sooooo. Just buy a cr10 then? Cuz it doesn't make that much sense to throw that much cash at a budget machine to get it on par with one just a bit more expensive.
As far as I could see, buying CR10 would require one to buy both a new nozzle/hotend and an AC heating pad for the bed because the heated beds on the CR10's are utter crap for the size from what I've seen in the reviews. The print surface would apply to both printers and the leveling knob would only apply to the Tornado as the CR10's come with large leveling knobs out of the box. Now I'm curious as to why you think a CR10 would be the better buy.
The Tornado is a great printer and you should not underestimate how nice that high-voltage bed is! also, #1-4 were no issues in Dec 2019 anymore and #7 will always be about preference
How is this a "great" 3D printer if, as far as I can tell, 6 out of the 10 upgrades are all design issues (inadequacies) that should have been dealt with by the manufacturer prior to release? I enjoy your videos Ruiraptor and appreciate the effort, but it seems like you're trying to put lipstick on a pig.
Hi Kevin, Your remark makes total sense. However, as far as i can see, tevo is one of the companies that listen to the users and tries to make changes as some issues are discovered along the way. They already did some changes since the release of this printer such as firmware changes, changed the board and drivers (now they have the MKS Gen L board and A4988 drivers) and so on. Some other manufacturers don't do that.
![🔨20 хитрых приспособлений для настоящего мастера! [3D печать]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xZoYwbGjcoc/mqdefault.jpg)
As a person looking to get this printer this is such a helpful video, I just wanna thank you for the time you take to explain these details.
Thank you so much for your comment.
Ruiraptor's videos are a must for any TEVO Tornado user! Thanks for the great work!
Thank you for your kind comment Jeremy.
Amazing job , well done !!! I am very happy to found you on youtube!!!
Great timing on this as my girlfriend just unboxed and set mine up. We hate the bed surface and those bed leveling knobs/spinning screws are frustrating. It's quite a chore cleaning that adhesive gunk off the build plate. Thanks!
Hi Paul,
I actually have a nice trick for removing the sheet easily. I'm working on exactly that for my next video.
I found a local store that sells cheapo picture frames and used the glass from one to cover my Tevo build plate. Picture glass is usually just 2mm thick in small-ish frames, just like mine. :¬) The thinner glass heats up reasonably quickly too. I use glue stick to make the work hold to the glass.
Glass cleans up nicely with a blade or sharp scraper, but remove it from the bed any time you want to scrape it or remove a printed object. That saves re-levelling so often.
You really improved those many little things that give a real edge, kudos!
thanks for putting the time into showing the tevo tornado. It is a great machine. I just purchased one this week and I'm on my third print already.
Absolutely excellent! A true expert aware of the many variations this printer has undergone. Great work!
Thanks for your kind comment :)
awesome job mate! ill be going through this list for sure and making every upgrade possible. Im interested to see if i can get the print surfaces you've mentioned, in the UK.. Time to shop around! Thanks again for your hard work :)
Hi,
the print surfaces i have for testing are the filaprint, the printbite+ and the Mamorubot. There are others but i only have these 3 for now.
ruiraptor Thankyou! i'll be keeping my eyes peeled for either one of them :)
I do not own a Tevo Tornado but these video's can be used for thinkering on all 3D printers. Great job again as always from Rui, no BUZZ no FUZZ video's............. do not know if it is mentioned in any video but the isolation of the build plate clips are life savers for those working with 220 volt but also for 24 volt heatbeds. Better not to use those clips at all as they can short out against the heater parts if not isolated correctly also. Thanks Rui.....................
Hi, thank you so much for your feedback.
Regarding the clips, i can undestand what you are saying, but in this case, the heatbed has a lot of clearance underneath so you can use the clips as they dont reach the wires.
Would you recommend upgrade the extruder for an aluminium one. If so, which one you would recommend? Thanks for all those very helpful tips !!
Hi Martin, the titan extruder is very good. We don't see the need for a metal one. You could eventually upgrade with a BMG extruder.
@@ruiraptor Thank you so much!
Amazing video. Could you do a video going in depth on the driver's upgrade you mentioned. Thanks for providing such helpful content.
Hi Phillip,
The video is already online. See it here: ua-cam.com/video/RhlTdTLfaQ0/v-deo.html
ruiraptor thank you much appreciated
When ordering one of those print surfaces, do I have to give them the size and location of the holes or just the printer name? Also which one of the 3 print surfaces is your 1st choice? Thanks again
Hi,
The mamorubot print surface already has the holes and it's the exact dimension of the tornado heatbed. You just need to select the tevo tornado one. For the printbite+ or the filaprint, you order a 310mmx310mm and you glue to the heatbed or to a glass. If you buy a glass you need to get one with the holes. I bought mine at a local glass manufacturer.
RUI - Awesome overview. On item 2 what size spacers (washers) did you use as far as inner hole diameter and overall diameter on the X axis roller? Also if you ordered them do you have a source with Part numbers?
Thanks
CB
Hi Charles,
The inner diameter is the same as the screw that is going through the wheels.
Regarding the outer diameter, it does not matter much since you will use the stock shim to be side by side with the bearing of the wheel.
I bought my precision shims locally but i bet you can find them on the internet like ebay for example.
Hello,
This video was very helpful and informative and thank you for making it! I do have a question though: where did you get the glass bed? I’ve been trying to find one exactly like the one you had but I couldn’t. I tried window glass, but it wasn’t perfectly flat. If you ordered it online would you mind posting a link to where you got it from? It would help a lot, thanks.
Hi Nathan,
I have a local glass manufacturer near my house. They make the glass just how i want to. I have a 4mm tempered glass with the holes for the screws for just 10euros.
Forgot to say great video in previous post, sorry about that! Second question if I might... Do I just need to order the microswiss hotend nozzle or the whole kit? Thanks again! Getting my 2018 Tev o Tornado in just over a week can hardly wait!
Hi Scott, i only ordered the nozzle as i like the stock assembly.
Thanks for making this video- some great tips there! What about NEMA17 anti-vibration mounts?
Hi Vahe,
Some users in the official forum have installed those anti-vibration dampers. I never tested those as i don't see the need yet.
ruiraptor I have them installed on my x and y axes, and can recommend them if you're looking for quieter operation. One thing to note; you shouldn't use an anti-vibration mount with the y axis brace in the video as this would directly couple the motor to the frame again which would defeat the object...
Yes, i agree 100% about using the anti-vibration with the printed motor brace. Thank you so much for your feedback on this :)
#1 What is the thickness of you bracket? Mine is 3mm, looks thicker than yours
#2 X-axes, yes, they differ in thickness by 1mm, but one side came already shimmed with 1mm shims, so for me they are equal distance
Hi,
Regarding the bracket, which one are you referring to?
Regarding the X axis, if that is the case then it means that TEVO fixed the issue :)
Great :)
Mine Y-motor bracket is 3mm, feels pretty rigid to me, but not super rigid, so I'm just wondering if yours is 3mm also?
Hi,
mine is only 2mm...that's why is not that rigid ;)
Useful video...thanks! It would be great if your next video about installing and setting up BLTouch :)
Hi,
thanks for your comment and idea. Will consider it for sure ;)
I'm new to 3d printing but how is this considered a quality product with this many factory defects?
I think it's a matter of the low price of these printers (compared to ones that cost $1000+) and the fact that 3d printing is still in its infancy. Same was true with PCs in the early days.
Lol it isnt... it's a budget machine...
Is that a 6" or 8" Dial slipper you're using. Thanks so much for this video and links. I just bought a Tornado.👍👍👍👍👍 Could you give the names of the print surfaces again? I got PrintBrite+ but not the other 2. Amazon has quite a few listed. Thanks
Hi,
yes, it's a 6" (150mm) caliper.
The print surfaces i have for testing are the filaprint, the printbite+ and the Mamorubot.
Got it..Thanks much.
Thank you. I used to have one somewhere but can't find it. Just ordered a digital one like yours .
Hello Love your videos, the swis nozzle what one would I buy?
Hi Gregg,
i bought mine here:
www.barandela.pt/nozzles
This is all great stuff! I'm thinking of getting a Tornado, so this will help if I do. Question for anyone: Is there a way to upgrade to a dual z motor/screw setup? Does anyone sell a good kit for that, for the Tornado? I'm assuming the ones for the CR-10 wont work with this.
Hi,
People have been using the CR-10 kit with great results
That's interesting... I thought they were different enough to not be compatible for the dual-z motor upgrade. But if they are, that really makes me seriously consider the Tornado.
@@DeusExAstra Better off using one motor running 2 lead screws www.thingiverse.com/thing:2668969
As for theTubing and nozzle, Amazon's got them Not rated very high on Amazon but because Rui recommends them I'm going to try them
I bought my capricorn and microswiss at the barandela webstore here: www.barandela.pt/nozzles
I got that from your links but everytime I searched that site I got a nothing found. Finally bought them at Amazon.
Strange...i did a search and found them...check this...you need to scrool down.
www.barandela.pt/search?q=nozzle&action=
All this shows , are the nozzles , no tube . At least for us in the united States.
Okay but I did get the blue tube from Amazon. It was delivered yesterday
Yes Yes Yes ! thank you my friend !!!
Thanks for the feedback Jean
hi! is this info still up to date? great video! thanks. very informativ.
Hi, the biggest difference between the green tornado and the gold one is the main board. The gold one uses the MKS GEN L board which means that you don't need to buy a new board just to replace the drivers.
Hi, do you highly recommend tevo tornado for first timers? Thank you.
Hi,
Yes i do.
Tevo tornado or tevo flash. Both are great options.
Check here: tevo-3d-onlinestore.myshopify.com?rfsn=1689252.9c830
ruiraptor TBH the messing around with resistors and the boards is a bit intimidating for me, as I was looking at getting this printer as my first step into 3D printing.
Thank you Sir.
Yes
@@yurika12 I don't know if you already got a printer, but as a suggestion, I started with a Monoprice Select Mini V2, which is quite cheap comes already built with no additional setup, the build area is not too large but enough for anything under 120mm perimeter, just put your filament in, level your bed which usually already comes leveled for you and you are ready to use, started my first print in 10 mins after unboxing, super easy to use and understand, now that I feel a bit more comfortable with the 3d printing concept and the machines, I ordered a Tevo Tornado and I'm waiting for the package to arrive :) quite exciting
I am looking to purchase the tornado, here in the United states, who would you recommend I purchase online ? I'd like to try and make sure who ever I purchase from sends me a model with the newest boards/drivers
Christopher Swann
I got mine from Banggood, for $320. Literally took 2 days to recieve, I ordered it on the 26th of april and got it on the 28th.
So far Im liking it so far, as my very first 3D printer, and as my very first banggod purchase.
I ordered the 110v model, for US but they sent me the UK power cable, luckily I had spare PC psu power cables laying around.
HEY THERE BRO WILL THIS DEVICE ZONESTAR Z8X/Z9 - TEVO TORNADO TAKE A STEPPING MOTOR DRIVER LV8727 ???
ALOS WILL IT WORK WITHOUT HOT BED ???
THANK YOU VERY MUCH !!!
Hi,
I believe that yes but i don't have one of those printers to test with so I don't guarantee.
I don't understand the question regarding the hotbed...
Good video, thanks!
You talked about the heat bed issue. The TEVO Tornado I received about 1 month ago has the Green covered bed, with a Red over-lay pad that I guess is an option, no information on it that I have found yet. Very shortly after using (within a week) the Green has developed bubbles as you described to the point of build failures and basically making it unuseable. You showed other beds, are you suggesting them as a replacement? If so, do they also run on 110V with the same current being supplied and controlled by the TEVO base unit? I am not sure what to do at this point.
Hi Tom,
You just need to remove the print surface. The heatbed will be the same. The print surfaces are placed over the heatbed. I will publish a video very soon explaining how to remove the sheet and some tricks that will make it easy.
Thank, I will be watching for your video. Also, can you include any suggestions as to what to put over the cleaned heat bed - if anything.
Hi Tom,
check my newest video as it answers your question (ua-cam.com/video/4xIKJnZ4Uwc/v-deo.html)
Tom, you dont need anything on the heat bed, other than a little hairspray.
Please correct me if I'm wrong but from a relative perspective, could you omit the x axis plate Shims and compensate with the angle of the gantry? If anything it would be fractionally sturdier, no?
Hi,
Thank you for your comment.
Regarding your question, do you mean rotate the vertical beams so that they get the same angle offset as the x axis?
If that is the case I find that solution a bit harder to do because to do that you would need to drill bigger holes to the bottom horizontal beams so that you can have the necessary play.
I also believe that the bigger holes/play might cause the upper frame to misalign over time due to vibrations. You can add some corner brackets to reinforce and prevent this to happen.
You also have the option to just rotate the Y axis beam where the wheels go on but that can also mean some rework. Need to check that.
Anyway, it is my opinion that the shims are the correct way to fix this as you keep everything nice and square and you get a solid installation. And please note that with this offset, the wheels are also not squared with the vertical beams because the horizontal x profile is forcing the wheels and green plates to be in that angle as well.
And they are not that hard to install. You can do it by removing the wheels with the eccentric nuts on both sides and also
the leadscrew nut. Then, unscrew and release the other wheels and this way you can access and install the shims. I was able to install the shims without disassembling the entire x grantry.
ruiraptor thank you for your consideration, you make a good point. I only considered this, because I measured the amount of play on the fixtures of the vertical beams.
Thanks again for your good work =]
Where did you get your precision shims at? Everywhere I look the price and quantity it way to high.
Hi Larry,
I got mine on ebay. Just search for 0.1mm, 0.2mm or 0.5mm washers.
Most beer and soft drink cans are 0.1 mm. You can punch the hole with a regular paper hole punch, then cut the outline of the washer with scissors. Punch the hole first. It's too hard to hold it after you cut the washer. Stack a couple if needed. Easy and fast to make. Cheap, plus you get a drink.
Don't ground to anodized surface... anodize layer is non conductive.
The ground wire is connected either to the end side of the profile (which is not treated or painted) or at the side but scratched first.
The threads in the frame are cut after anodizing, so even without a conductive surface you still have continuity to ground via the bolt.
Why even use another print surface? I print directly on the bed, its fantastic.
HI,
the answer is very simple...i prefer the print surfaces that stick the filament when they are hot and release when cold. I dont like to force prints out, use masking tape or glue, etc.
I have also found my glass bed to not be perfectly flat as a ultrabase is
The print surface under the default buildtac surface is Glass. Once you clean off all the gunk you have a perfect build surface, just a little hairspray and you are good to go. Buying another surface is a waste of money.
LOL, nice try Ultrabase resellor.
Did you completely miss the portion about how the bed isnt completely flat? Yours may be, but i have a .001 mm gauge that shows the discrepancy very clearly.
I've also used hairspray and gluestick with the bed minus the build tack and a separate sheet of glass both. The gluestick was the better option, but required cleaning after every print. The hairspray just makes everything around it a sticky mess over time and was much more of a PITA to clean although it tended to leave a better surface finish on the bottom. Both of which also needed a touch of coaxing to remove from the bed. The Ultrabase literally can be blown off the bed after it cools. So the Ultrabase wins for me.
The only downside that i have encountered with the base so far is its intolerance of the nozzle scraping and thus scratching the bed. Oh and maybe extra weight on the Y axis.
It also costs less than a roll of cheap PLA, but if money is that tight, i deff understand. Im there at the moment myself. I just prefer the ease of use as well as the guarantee of the print always sticking, so decided on that instead of another PLA roll.
Lastly, do you see a affiliate link anywhere? I just share my knowledge with people to potentially help people out. Take it or leave it, dont really care. But i dont like insults for giving my opinion. People sure are rude when they arent face to face with a person. Or are you just this rude all the time?
What about the newest printers, the copper ones?
The new copper ones are the same. The only difference is the board (MKS GEN L), the color and they do not include the print surface on the glass. Rest is the same.
I have a question hopefully someone can answer. I want to get into 3D printing & I'm a complete novice to it, but I'm very technically inclined. Been in the computer industry for over 30 years, can do board level soldering, home automation & work in the security alarm, access control, & surveillance for a living. I'm looking for a printer that can do great printing for the value, but also upgradable if possible. The more I look at reviews on printers the more undecided I'm getting. Thanks in advance.
Hi John,
I understand you completely.
There are some factors that will determine the choice of the printer such as the print area, how much you want to spend, etc.
The tevo tornado is a good choice as you have a good print area, good board (MKS GEN L and can upgrade drivers easily), the AC bed, great firmware from stock and many upgrade versions available and also a big community on facebook.
@@ruiraptor would you recommend anything over a cr10? I'm looking for a largest, most versatile printer, that is the quietest. I used to have a tevo tarantula, but have heard alot of good from the cr10
Hello rui, dual z axis upgrade exists for Tornado ? Same than Tornado or CR10 maybe ? Thks.
Hi Christian,
There is no z upgrade for the Z from tevo. But you have the CR10 kit which is compatible with the tornado.
What were the three print surfaces? I caught PrintBite+. What were the other two?
Hi Rick,
The print surfaces i have for testing are the filaprint, the printbite+ and the Mamorubot
Thank you my friend !!
Thank you for your kind comment :)
Man...sooo many things to fix which should be addressed already from factory! I look somewhere else or get the original cr10
I don't know when it happened but I got a Tornado for Christmas 2019 and:
#1: the motor is mounted to a 3mm metal plate, no bending with the rubber band
#2: the washers were already installed
#3: had no problems with layer shifts
#4: no salmons either
had to do #5, #6 and #9 myself
#7 someone will always be unsatisfied
it is a great printer and don't underestimate how nice that high-voltage bed is!
Thanks
What size nozzle
.2 .3 .4?
In my case i use a 0.4.
Would the Hywin rails upgrade work on this? Would you recommend it?
The rails should be fine but unless you modify the frame to have 2 rails in parallel and with some distance to each other, it does not make much sense as the 6 wheels work fine.
Can the petsfang with blower be printed with pl a or does it require petg? Thanks in advance!
Hi Scott, sorry for the late reply...i didn't receive the youtube notification...
I tested these fanducts with PLA and they work ok.
Get the 8 diode TL Smoothers. They produce better results than TL Smoothers will less diodes.
Yes, that is correct. Only the 8 diode version smoothers are capable of getting better results. I also suggest to get the trianglelab plus ones.
Is there a supplier in the US that carries the "Capricorn tube"?
Yes, there are a few stores that have the capricorn tube in the US. Just type "capricorn tube us" in google and you will find a few.
Great video, thank you.
Thanks for your feedback Joseph
Thank you Joseph
Does the tornado come with auto-leveling?
No, it does not.
@@ruiraptor But is it possible to upgrade it to auto-leveling?
Yes, you can install an auto level sensor.
No but you don't really need it. It take about 1/2 hour to manually bet level. I have found that I only have to bed level every once in a while or if I move the printer. Compared to my XYZ printer this manual bed leveling process is so easy. You can add a bed leveling system if you are up to it but you really don't need it. I think even with a bed leveling system you still have to manually bed level once in a while. I have the gold edition and love it.
so what about an upgrade for the extruder feeder
Hi Patrick,
What do you mean? Mine is working just fine.
@@ruiraptor I was hoping for an aluminum or something similar for the extruder the stick one is that plastic and I wasn't sure if a cr-10 will fit
Thanks for sharing :-)
Thank you
Thank you for your feedback as well :)
I think TEVO must have gone out of business. Can't find any parts and their printers are no longer for sale. That really sucks. We have the Tornado and Nereus.
Hi Tim, Tevo changed the name to Homers some time ago but now they are called TevoUp. You can check the new TevoUp website for information.
Hello,I did a filament extruder upgrade and now my filament goes backwards,how would I reverse the feed motor? Tevo tornado. Thanks in advance.
Hi, search for the line "define INVERT_E0_DIR" and change the logic from true to false or vice-versa.
Good video but Music is really annoying
9:10
Having started with a Tevo Tarantula, I can safely say that I'll never buy another Tevo machine, even if it's mega cheap.
I think you could have been a bit more specific and provided a bit of information. I just bought the Tevo Tornado. I'm coming from a FLSUN QQ Delta and I'll never buy another one even if they were free. Sounds the same as your goofy statement. Mine was put together with plastic screws and broke. Returned for refund. Now what's your excuse?
Plastic screws??!! Facepalm! That's just a disaster. :¬)
I didn't expect great things when I bought mine on Gearbest but it was what I could afford at the time and it is for fun, initially. I'd seen reviews, but has also closely examined various images and saw the bad match between the extrusions and the running wheels. So I knew it would need work to make it good.
When it arrived it was as expected.
I'm a CNC machine setter and have access to the machines if one has some "out" time. So I've machined proper "V" faces into the rails where necessary.
But as I started assembling it I found some screws stripping with minimum pressure on the allen key. So I measured the screws and "T" nuts. The threads on the screws were undersize and threads in the nuts were oversize. A recipe for failure.
So I purchased alternatives online and waited till they arrived to start assembly again.
After finishing the build, I got everything moving as it should and loaded some of their "free" filament and a file to print.
Warm up the bed and nozzle? Ok.
Bed yes, nozzle no.
Check all my wiring.
Try again. Cold nozzle.
After testing everything, the nozzle heater was dead! (insert swearing here)
Ordered two replacements online from a UK supplier. Waited for them.
Finally, first print!!! Only two months after receiving the machine. (ok, including the Xmas break)
heh, and no, I wasn't bothered enough to return it all the way to Shenzen. ;¬)
So later this year I'll be looking for a Creality CR10 or maybe a Prusa, if finances can stretch that far. Or, I may just build my own from scratch.
Have you seen the new E3D printer concept? Watch from around the 8 minute mark to hear about it. ua-cam.com/video/jfopGYO0r-M/v-deo.html
They are definitely inspiring me to build something.
wow! Sounds like the same boat as I was with the FLSUN QQ Delta. Not only the 3 plastic screws on the build plate but after skype, teamviewer, Repetier, screen sharing and whatever 1 week, He tells me X stitch on one of the Z axis is bad too. Now just how does broken plastic screws relate to a broken micro switch? About that time any decent company would have said hey! We;'re gonna send you a replacement. Put the bad one back in the same box and ship it back. In my (F-bomb) dreams. It had high reviews. Oh well 1 in 50 may have problems okay. I filed a clim with Amazon.So I'm looking and looking, You Tube mostly Thousands or videos Hundreds of 3D stuff. Trying to stay within my finances because I don't have the refund for the FLSUN yet. Looked at the CR-10 and quite a few others. TEVO Tornado (ha I'm a trained weather spotter ha ha) interested me. I made a few friends producing tornado videos and stated studying. I got a few great tips stuff to check right out of the box. I'm still a noob but I am getting a bit better.. Thanks for your story. Take care.
#2 and #3 are already fixed
when? just ordered my tornado yesterday although foolishly didnt order from tevo directly so ill need to check the updates
I just got one yesterday too, I hope I get one that's fixed too.
ultrarunner0476 Upgraded few month ago. I ordered last week from the manufacturer. The Poti is also new.
Pardon my ignorance. Poti? glad to hear updates are getting processed. I am not sure how old my unit is thorugh banggood but apparently ill get it wednesday
ultrarunner0476 The Poti is from the new Michelangelo
Sooooo. Just buy a cr10 then?
Cuz it doesn't make that much sense to throw that much cash at a budget machine to get it on par with one just a bit more expensive.
As far as I could see, buying CR10 would require one to buy both a new nozzle/hotend and an AC heating pad for the bed because the heated beds on the CR10's are utter crap for the size from what I've seen in the reviews. The print surface would apply to both printers and the leveling knob would only apply to the Tornado as the CR10's come with large leveling knobs out of the box. Now I'm curious as to why you think a CR10 would be the better buy.
The Tornado is a great printer and you should not underestimate how nice that high-voltage bed is!
also, #1-4 were no issues in Dec 2019 anymore and #7 will always be about preference
1 st like !
:)
Please lose the background music.
How is this a "great" 3D printer if, as far as I can tell, 6 out of the 10 upgrades are all design issues (inadequacies) that should have been dealt with by the manufacturer prior to release? I enjoy your videos Ruiraptor and appreciate the effort, but it seems like you're trying to put lipstick on a pig.
Hi Kevin,
Your remark makes total sense. However, as far as i can see, tevo is one of the companies that listen to the users and tries to make changes as some issues are discovered along the way. They already did some changes since the release of this printer such as firmware changes, changed the board and drivers (now they have the MKS Gen L board and A4988 drivers) and so on. Some other manufacturers don't do that.