Too be honest u are better off doing a lighter coat 1st so that when u do the full coat. Your gonna be less likely to get runs, given the extra adhesion from the 1st coat. It also minimizes risk of being too dry. 1st coat flashes real quick too
Thanks for making the music 10 x louder than the talking. I really love that. Also, the title is misleading. You didn't compare the two at all. Title should have been "How to spray solvent like waterborne paint" or something like that.
On a full car I proablly wouldn't attempt this method on a mettalic. On panle work all day long. I got super even color and mettalic lay out on this no issues at all.
Best economic panle repair clear is the Smr135 2 wet coats and it will look oem brand new. Even better? The glamor production clear. I perfer the smr 135.
Man, automotive painting overall has different "rules" compared to house painting. Even with Rusto rattlecan stuff I've done so far, wet on wet (or back to back almost sort of dry to touch) coats are a no no with house painting, but required for that. Do you need to use a higher pressure with less reduction that way, to compensate for the thicker paint to get it to atomize so you don't get orange peel? In house painting land, I'm not sure when this will happen in car painting land (my, lots of stuff is different and I'm still trying to wrap my head around it all, but it's good cross training figuratively for house painting for sure...) it's gotten to the point where solvent based stuff is actually WORSE than water based, due to the EPA regulations. Basically the VOC exempt solvents make things worse, or are actually downright toxic (Zinsser Cover Stain low VOC uses some crazy dry cleaning solvent that burns your throat, and it no longer even really... works...) Some rules are crazy, for example acetone is VOC exempt and you can put as much acetone as you want in a paint, which is why Rustoleum on the cans says "thin only with acetone" but acetic acid, which is vinegar, is considered a VOC. The VOC rules aren't about human health, only about the ozone layer, and it's sort of criminal that some paint companies are implying low-VOC automatically is safe, healthier, etc, it's not always.
I did it, you saw the results, the end result was good and I gave it a full day to cure for all the "your guna get solvent pop" people. No solvent pop, smooth clean oem finish. But hey do it your way.
Your good bro. That why I waited a day for it to cure so that I could prove to everyone there is no solvent pop risk if you do it this way. Even if there was mild solvent pop in your basecoat before clearing, as long as the base was fully died up before clear, the clear would fill in those little micro pin holes created by solovent pop. Now if you get solovent pop in your clear by doing your second coat to soon that's when your screwed.
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 This is kind of a dumb question, but I honestly have no idea again, what are recoat times like on automotive products? Is it like a Rusto rattlecan, where it says wet on wet within a few minutes, or wait an entire day or two for all the solvents to offgas out? I'm kind of confused with auto painting videos I see, as there might be sort of a difference in terminology of passes vs coats. To me a "coat" is wet on dry, and a "pass" is wet on wet? It's just sometimes confusing terminology to me. Even in house painting people that are way inexperienced will say "I did two coats" when all they did was backroll the first coat, or do a second pass with the sprayer, etc. With a house paint like Benjamin Moore Advance, it actually has like a 12-16 hour recoat time, and if you recoat before that it can make it reach final cure slower, or not at all, but it's waterbourne. When using a catalyzed paint like what you use (which I've never used yet) do ambient conditions matter less, and it's more down to the amount/type of catalyst you use (ie, fast, slow, etc) or do the conditions really drastically affect dry times and how it levels/cures? Even using Rusto rattlecans, temperature and conditions make the hugest difference in leveling and amount of orange peel, and it's the same with house paints, the same paint will orange peel or brush mark like crazy in 90F with low humidity, but make it 50-60F with high humidity and it'll flow well and look like glass. So with these air drying one component paints, latex or oil, I'm always aiming to thin them as much as possible and keep the area as cold/humid as possible to slow drying so they level well, trying to aim for a thinner coat overall to compensate for runs with a thinner/slower drying paint. So do automotive paints work this way, or does the catalyst just kind of determine everything and the set of the paint is entirely chemical (sort of like cement, plaster, etc, where it'll set up regardless of the temperature because of the chemical reactions) not up to the ambient conditions? Or is it like half and half? Sorry for all the questions, it's just I legitimately don't know and would like to know before I get into actual auto paints how it works.
Automotive paint usually always gives instructions right on the can. I know we do here at speedokote you will not find a single product without instructions. Basecoat it's typically 1-3 coats. Clear coat 1-3 coats. 20 min in between basecoat and clear coat. Not to hard bud
@@OG-Spadoodie I have plenty of videos of how to "properly" Do things. Plenty. I also have plenty of videos of how just to get something looking somewhat good again for people who have less experience and what not.
@@OG-Spadoodie I don't need any real advice man but thanks. . If you scrolled to newer videos you would see I run and own a 9000 sq foot body shop with one employee, we do quality work but most importantly we do what we are paid to do. If a customer isant paying for cut and buff, we don't cut and buff ect ect.
Too be honest u are better off doing a lighter coat 1st so that when u do the full coat. Your gonna be less likely to get runs, given the extra adhesion from the 1st coat. It also minimizes risk of being too dry. 1st coat flashes real quick too
Your right iv actually started doing this more often.
Thanks for making the music 10 x louder than the talking. I really love that. Also, the title is misleading. You didn't compare the two at all. Title should have been "How to spray solvent like waterborne paint" or something like that.
Thanks for your opinion.
From the work we have had done on silver cars, it is apparently not easy to get even color in metallic.
On a full car I proablly wouldn't attempt this method on a mettalic. On panle work all day long. I got super even color and mettalic lay out on this no issues at all.
Great video!! What’s your best line of clear coat to us for panel repair?
Best economic panle repair clear is the Smr135 2 wet coats and it will look oem brand new. Even better? The glamor production clear. I perfer the smr 135.
Speedokote refinish network thanks. In California it’s not VOC approve with other can i use?
I Beleive the 2.1 VOC glamor production clear can go to California
Speedokote refinish network appreciate the help thanks
If you don't remove all of the clear that is delaminating before primer it will delaminate again. Think about it. Durr
Great work Marco! What paint gun were you using in this video?
Next video bro :)
Dude, love the tips but when you going to do the arm workout videos? ,😆🏋️💪
Lmao funny
Man, automotive painting overall has different "rules" compared to house painting. Even with Rusto rattlecan stuff I've done so far, wet on wet (or back to back almost sort of dry to touch) coats are a no no with house painting, but required for that. Do you need to use a higher pressure with less reduction that way, to compensate for the thicker paint to get it to atomize so you don't get orange peel?
In house painting land, I'm not sure when this will happen in car painting land (my, lots of stuff is different and I'm still trying to wrap my head around it all, but it's good cross training figuratively for house painting for sure...) it's gotten to the point where solvent based stuff is actually WORSE than water based, due to the EPA regulations. Basically the VOC exempt solvents make things worse, or are actually downright toxic (Zinsser Cover Stain low VOC uses some crazy dry cleaning solvent that burns your throat, and it no longer even really... works...) Some rules are crazy, for example acetone is VOC exempt and you can put as much acetone as you want in a paint, which is why Rustoleum on the cans says "thin only with acetone" but acetic acid, which is vinegar, is considered a VOC. The VOC rules aren't about human health, only about the ozone layer, and it's sort of criminal that some paint companies are implying low-VOC automatically is safe, healthier, etc, it's not always.
I did it, you saw the results, the end result was good and I gave it a full day to cure for all the "your guna get solvent pop" people. No solvent pop, smooth clean oem finish. But hey do it your way.
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 I actually just honestly had no idea, it's why I asked, sorry.
Your good bro. That why I waited a day for it to cure so that I could prove to everyone there is no solvent pop risk if you do it this way. Even if there was mild solvent pop in your basecoat before clearing, as long as the base was fully died up before clear, the clear would fill in those little micro pin holes created by solovent pop. Now if you get solovent pop in your clear by doing your second coat to soon that's when your screwed.
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 This is kind of a dumb question, but I honestly have no idea again, what are recoat times like on automotive products? Is it like a Rusto rattlecan, where it says wet on wet within a few minutes, or wait an entire day or two for all the solvents to offgas out? I'm kind of confused with auto painting videos I see, as there might be sort of a difference in terminology of passes vs coats. To me a "coat" is wet on dry, and a "pass" is wet on wet? It's just sometimes confusing terminology to me. Even in house painting people that are way inexperienced will say "I did two coats" when all they did was backroll the first coat, or do a second pass with the sprayer, etc.
With a house paint like Benjamin Moore Advance, it actually has like a 12-16 hour recoat time, and if you recoat before that it can make it reach final cure slower, or not at all, but it's waterbourne. When using a catalyzed paint like what you use (which I've never used yet) do ambient conditions matter less, and it's more down to the amount/type of catalyst you use (ie, fast, slow, etc) or do the conditions really drastically affect dry times and how it levels/cures? Even using Rusto rattlecans, temperature and conditions make the hugest difference in leveling and amount of orange peel, and it's the same with house paints, the same paint will orange peel or brush mark like crazy in 90F with low humidity, but make it 50-60F with high humidity and it'll flow well and look like glass. So with these air drying one component paints, latex or oil, I'm always aiming to thin them as much as possible and keep the area as cold/humid as possible to slow drying so they level well, trying to aim for a thinner coat overall to compensate for runs with a thinner/slower drying paint. So do automotive paints work this way, or does the catalyst just kind of determine everything and the set of the paint is entirely chemical (sort of like cement, plaster, etc, where it'll set up regardless of the temperature because of the chemical reactions) not up to the ambient conditions? Or is it like half and half?
Sorry for all the questions, it's just I legitimately don't know and would like to know before I get into actual auto paints how it works.
Automotive paint usually always gives instructions right on the can. I know we do here at speedokote you will not find a single product without instructions. Basecoat it's typically 1-3 coats. Clear coat 1-3 coats. 20 min in between basecoat and clear coat. Not to hard bud
Man you should of sealed that bumper as well
Comes with factory primer, it's not raw plastic. No need. But everyone does it differant
If this was a used bumper hell yea, seal it
Awesomeness brother 🙌👑✌️
Good finish player, love that color btw , what color is that on that bumper?
Thanks dude. It's jade green mettalic chrysler color. 300c
I wana buy ur paint kit what grit sandpaper i use to get clear coat off car
400 grit, smooth everything out, primer sealer and your good to go.
We sell everything you need besides the basecoat. Feel free to check out the site :)
What clear coat do you recommend for a complete paint job
Glamor clear for the win, euro clear if your on a budget.
What paint gun and tips
Makes more peal in the clear coat when you don't reduce it as much
I agree however this was for a used car dealer. Doesn't need to be perfect just good enough to sell
@Speedokote refinish network why make a video and not show the world how it's ment to be done properly.
@@OG-Spadoodie I have plenty of videos of how to "properly" Do things. Plenty. I also have plenty of videos of how just to get something looking somewhat good again for people who have less experience and what not.
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 let me know if you want any pro tips. 20 years xp
@@OG-Spadoodie I don't need any real advice man but thanks. . If you scrolled to newer videos you would see I run and own a 9000 sq foot body shop with one employee, we do quality work but most importantly we do what we are paid to do. If a customer isant paying for cut and buff, we don't cut and buff ect ect.
Honestly I can’t believe the gloss.
For only 1 coat of Smr135 it turned out amazing. Then again I spray way differant than other guys
What is that spray gun?
Video on that soon. Sprays nice
Hi