Painting a US Navy measure 22 paint scheme tutorial
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2020
- World famous scale modeling author Mike Ashey Shows you how to paint a World War-II, US Navy measure 22 paint scheme of navy blue, deck blue and haze gray colors in this latest scale modeling tutorial. Mike uses his recently completed Tamiya 1/350 scale USS Missouri to demonstrate how to airbrush this important US Navy paint scheme.
Mike also provides detailed guidance on masking tape selection and application techniques, paint selection and mixing and airbrush pressure recommendations throughout the tutorial. His careful paint mixing techniques yield scale colors to compliment the finished models appearance. Mike also provides some close ups of his finished 1/350 scale USS Missouri.
If you follow Mike’s tutorial you can easily duplicate his masking, painting and finishing techniques to achieve the same results that Mike does. So sit back, take notes and start painting your scale model ships the Mike Ashey way! - Навчання та стиль
Shout out to this man for single handedly keeping the masking tape industry afloat
Yep!
I use lots of tape for my ship and aircraft builds.
Personally, I think a case can be made that wooden decks are best in flat Deck Blue, but the metal decks ought be in semi-gloss (barring non skid areas). From first hand experience on USS Texas, I can suggest that a black wash on wooden decks in 20B is entirely appropriate.
These things can spark all manner of debate, including acrimonious; my intentions are solely subjective and are menat for informative purposes only.
I appreciate your thoughts. No one has all the answers.
I really like your color choices and this is a very good tutorial on how to paint this scheme. Great work!
Really neat methods with using bits of tape as like a guide to line up the longer pieces of tape, will definitely use that technique!
The last time I painted a hull with multiple colors, I first painted the bottom side red, masked it, painted the rest of the hull gray, then added another line of masking tape to make the black waterline. For me this helps since it reuses the tape to help make the black line so I don't have to carefully align the tape again with the hull
Glad the tutorial helped
Happy scale modeling!
Very nice video. I am printing the Space Yamato Battleship. I got a model that is huge. the hull is a bit over 1M long. Since its based off of the WWII Yamato, this painting is pretty similar to what I want to do.
Great video.!.Wonderful tips and methods.Always very well explained clearly and friendly.
happy scale modeling!
Thank you so much, Mike! This is awesome! :)
Your welcome!
Thank you for that tip about the boot stripes. I have always struggled with that - never happy with the end result!!!!!!
Glad the tutorial helped
Your welcome
Thank you I plan on using this on a model of the North Carolina
Glad to hear the tutorial helps!
Your channal is great and helpful. Keep up the good work.
Thanks!
Clean area.
I was going to say Tamiya doesn't put that much detail into their kits, at least they didn't the last time I built one of them. Looks really good.
Thanks
It was a fun build
Thanks for a very informative video! a couple questions: How long do you wait to mask the previous color for the next color? What type of tape are you using in a "liberal" manner to mask off the complete deck as a protective shield from any overspray? Thanks!
Hi
I used enamels for this project.
I usually wait 24 hours before using masking tape.
The tape I use is 3M painters masking tape with the red cardboard label.
Mike
That was very helpful Mike. The reason I watched the video was I didn’t understand how to paint the myriad vertical and horizontal surfaces. Your technique seems good to me. The photo-etch was obviously painted BEFORE they were attached to the model, is that correct? And do you do anything to prep the photo-etch before painting so the paint adheres to it while working with it? Thanks again.
Photoetch parts should be lightly sanded with very fine grit sandpaper. Then i prime the surfaces and then apply the paint colors.
I airbrush all photoetch.
How long do you let one color dry before applying the next tape layer, so paint underneath doesn’t pull up? I have a 1/350 scale LST in 18 scheme to do. At least there is less superstructure to mask!
Hi Dave
I used Testors enamels for all my ship projects up to now as Testors is no longer available thanks to The new owners
Clean the plastic with alcohol ten prime it.
I give each coat at least 24 hours to dry.
The sniff test always works.
Sniff the applied paint and you can smell it it’s not dry
I use 3M painters masking tape with the red cardboard center color for all my masking.
I like the stretch qualities of this masking tape
Mike
I have a question about the case. Do you make them yourself or buy them online somewhere? I’m building the Revell Olympia and Glencoe Oregon and want to protect them!
If you go to my website and open the review section you will see the info on where I buy my cases. They do a great job and the prices are reasonable.
Www.mikeashey.com
What a great looking model. You have great patience.How do you remove the paint before you glue pieces on or, have you found a paint that will work on top of the paint and door code?
John
I remove the paint on larger pets and subassemblies or I tape the gluing surfaces prior to airbrushing
For small parts I use Elmers white glue which has great adhesion properties on flat paint
@@scalemodeling thank you for your answer
How was the USS Olympia painted during WW 1 or when it transported the unknown soldier?
Morning
I have no idea.
Hasn’t Testors ended it’s Model Master paint line? Is there other paints you can recommend?
Tamiya lacquers
Mike, do you do a video on weathering ship models?
Hi paul
Yes my photoetch railings are painted prior to attaching them.
I sand the photoetch with 600 grit sandpaper, then prime them, the airbrush the final color.
No I don’t weather my ship models. That gets into “model art” which I don’t like to do.
Thanks for the expeditious reply.
But which is the real colour for the navy blue? N5 navy blue isn t too dark?the xf8 blue matt of tamiya? Or an intermediate blue by model master?
To get the "scale" navy Blue and deck blue colors follow my tutorial. If you use a real navy blue and deck blue colors they will appear to dark. I like to use Model Master enamels.
It's great work. Also I think it’s so hard to mask every pat.
Thanks
Just take your time
I have another question, which we can leave to the group here to answer rather than bombarding you Mike. Do you recommend a forum or group for me to join as I get through my growing pains of getting back into modelling? I'd love to find a local club, but we are stationed in Germany so it's not as easy as one might imagine.
UA-cam is the best place for what your looking for.
There are a lot of good channels on individual projects and tutorials.
My website has my old scale modeling books in free PDF format for downloading.
Wow, can you do a video on a measure 32 tutorial
Working on it
Great to here, because I ordered the 1/350 uss Missouri from very fire and was considering using its measure 32.
I also ordered the Very Fire Missouri (with blue wooden deck and detail upgrade kit) and plan to do measure 32 as well. Definitely pretty nervous.
Do you have any tips on weathering paint job like that?
Hi
Good question
I tend to paint my ship models as museum builds while trying to maintain the scale effect of paint
By way of an example
If you used a real navy blue and deck blue color the shades would appear to dark
I lighten up the colors so they appear more in scale
If you are looking for model art results like chipped paint and rust I can’t help you on that topic
@@scalemodeling thanks for the answer greatly appreciate. Amazing modeling btw
@@entrepreneurialhacks1255
Greatly enhanced with Black cat models 3D printed parts
Excellent video. I just purchased the Academy 1/400 scale kit from Freetime Hobbies. In seeing a review of it and the parts it seems to be just a slightly smaller version of the Tamiya 350th kit. It measures 26 and 3/8 inches long. I am mainly a sci - fi modeler but have always had an interest in model ships. Iwas wondering if it would be wrong to paint the ship in the haze grey color with natural wood decks. I have seen this done on a few of the builds of the Missouri from the era that this kit represents. I know I built the 700th scale Trumpeter 1991 era kit and it did call for natural wood color decks on it. I know that we say in the modeling community that you paint it as you like cause it's your model but at the same time I don't want to do something that is totally unacceptable. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Have a Happy and Healthy New Year and stay safe.
Jim
I recommend light sea gray on vertical surfaces.
Haze gray would be a bit dark
For hull red add a few drops of flat black so that the flat red is a bit darker
Steel decks are best medium gray
Not sure on the wood deck color now that Testors did away with model master colors
Thanks. I know what you mean. I used the Model Master enamels for years. Was really disappointed when they did away with them. I'm kind of surprised that being Rustoleum is a big company that they did away with them but kept the small bottles of the Testors paint that we all grew up with. I'm 62 and I've been building models for some 50 years now and also spent many years in the model railroad hobby as well. Sure wish we had the old Floquil paints around yet as even all of the Star Trek and many of the Star Wars studio models were painted with Floquil paints. I've still got some Model Master paints around but many that haven't been used for some time have dried up solid. I'll probably end up mixing my colors with the Tamiya acrylics to come close to what they should be. I appreciate your feedback.
Testors purchased Folquil which had an excellent primer and then Testors killed it
Then Rustoleum buys Testors and kills model master.
What a bunch of idiots
I used Floquil extensively back in the 80's when I did a lot of commission work on in the model railroad hobby. Another reason that contributed to getting rid of the brand is because it contained small amounts of lead in it. We found that out early on and wore respirators when using it. Despite that it was really great to work with and laid down really smoothly.
Though I mainly model Star Trek and Star Wars and other Sci-fi with lighting and dioramas I've built a few ship models. Back in the early 80's I built the big museum quality kit of the USS Constitution. I decided to purchase the Academy 400 scale Missouri and the 600 scale Enterprise aircraft carrier because they look like really nicely detailed kits. I also purchased photo etch railing for the them as well. I just wanted to add something different to my model room. I'm not an avid ship modeler but I've always been fascinated with ships since I was a kid. Growing up in Chicago and frequently going to the museum of science and industry when growing up they had the captured German submarine and they had a really big display of model ships. That was always the first place I would head to after the model railroad layout. I wanted something more inexpensive but a little on the larger size and these fit the bill. Like you ship modelers who add a lot of aftermarket parts to your models as a Sci-fi modeler I do the same. The only reason I purchase railing is because it makes the model look more complete and realistic and not so toy like. Also since I have subscribers from other genres I try to build something different once in a while. I just finished up the AMT 1989 Michael Keaton Batmobile with lighting to give the model car guys something different plus it's always been my favorite Batmobile. Have a Happy and Healthy New Year.