Hi, a have few point to you... 50° /60° / 70° / 80° etc is not °C as temperature... its a °shore and its a hardness of the rubber. Also harder ruber dont equals to better accuracy, there is more variables which is depend on... And Why are you dont use same bucking and nub combo with all chambers? different buckings and nubs will have different accuracy result of course. And your hop settings / pressure is too low. at 100ft you shoud shoot totally straight and your accuracy results will be better. Thanks for response
Great Vid Sir! I’ve loved your content since I started here in the UK around 6 years ago! Still providing great intel and opinion I feel,I can rely on! Makes me smile to see independent evidence G&G continue to do such a great, under-celebrated job! Thanks, loved this! Stay safe Sir Replay!
I feel like this wasn’t a very fair comparison because you didn’t only change the hop-up unit itself. It really should’ve been done with the same barrel, same bucking, and same tensioner/nub. Way too many variables. Although the rundown on how a hop-up unit actually works was really good. Another thing to show would be the adjustment range these units offer and maybe some bucking and barrel fitment tests.
It seems every Airsoft test out there seems to have a good premise but then a gaping flaw in the whole testing method that renders the entire test useless 🤦🏻♂️
For most M4 types the ZCI barrel ZCI Hop-Up and Maple leaf rubber work tremendously well at a fraction of the cost. There is a reason so many well respected techs use this combo.
@@bryansai6819 Thanks. I purchased G&G. I haven't installed it yet but seems to be a quality piece. G&G is what Neg Airsoft recommends, along with ZCI.
@@mtbbiker6401 for sure, I recommend an omega nub, G&G hopup, maple leaf bucking/rubber(60 degree if you're under 1.4ish joules/400 fps with .2s), and a lambda barrel but zci works just as well on a budget
The G&G rotary is probably the best hop unit one can buy without spending a ridiculous amount of money. And is compatible with just about every AR/ARP RIF. Not too sure on other PCCs/SMGs like MP5s, MP7s, UMPs or AK platforms as I don't really see them that much
I've been out of the game for a long time but I thought you were supposed to be using the Omega nub (or curved equivalent) with the MrHop buckings. I'd expect a flat arm to mess up the curvature of the protrusion inside the bucking which would defeat the concept of how the bucking is supposed to work.
+ Stabilize the inner barrel to outer barrel using any padding. + Lock the absolute position of the chamber to the front of the gearbox. + Using R-hop or Hop rubber with "multiple concussion points" + Do perfect airseal and use ported cylinder at the releasing point to correct the piston head oring before compression phase + And tons of other...
I liked the video, but i feel your science is flawed a bit. Your only control constant was the barrel. When it should be the bucking, gun, and barrel. The barrel should be cleaned and the only variable should be the hopup. You then test once with the normal nub and once with the flat/R hop nub for every hopup chamber. You can do all this with the AEG and the HPA.
The reason the retro arms wasnt working is because a hop arm that doesn't use a nub that also has a flat contact point, DOES NOT pair good at all with the maple leaf bucking's bb contact point
Does a bad bucking cause the gun to double or triple feed cuz my scar h shoots but some times 2 or 3 bbs come out at once and advice or trouble shoot should I just buy a whole new hopup with a new bucking?
Well there are some issues with your testing procedures here. But you knew that and of course it was called out in the comments. That said, you also mentioned, right from the start, that the hop unit is a nebulas thing with lots of variables. 100% agree with that! I have used all of these hop units mentioned in this video, in a lot of different guns over the years. As well as a few of the other, more expensive units not shown here. And I will agree with you, there are all sorts of variables when changing out hop units. There is no one way or one group of parts that is best in every gun. Anyone that says, "do it this way only..." is immediately discounted. Because there's no "one way" to build the same model of airsoft gun. There is no "TM standard" out there. There hasn't been since the first other manufactures came along and started to make their own guns in different ways. They are all different with different specs for their different parts. Luckily some of these parts interact well with each other. Some don't, as you mentioned. At best, this is a reference video, but I applaud your efforts here. Its a damn funny thing trying to help people. In the end, you did some good work, but need to have a more scientific approach and use the same parts in all setups. Maybe its not possible, but at least try. Thanks!
Sorry for asking if you already answered, but what shape of nub did you use with the pro win hop-up? and if you used another arm, is there another way to improve accuracy without arm replacing.
if you dont use the same exact bucking your not testing the hop up unit, are you doing this to sway things in your favor? or do you really not know this?
this, they should also use the SAME barrel not just same make, ideally high end one like PDI... or if you are using MapleLeaf buckings choose the barrel with window made for these so MapleLeaf or ActionArmy ActionArmy or PDI 6.01 barrel MapleLeaf MR hop 60 or 70 shore bucking MapleLeaf Omega nub also if your goal is to test the hop up and not the barrel, 510 mm is WAY too long, the shorter the barrel the less it affects the BB also after much debate and tests and so on, it was found that the longest usable barrel length is 465mm, anything beyond that and all you are doing is making the bb bounce around in the barrel screwing the hop up spin instead of stabilization. i would use typical +-365mm barrel for test of M4 style hop up unit instead to test "real use scenario" instead of insane 510mm barrel length you will only find in full length M16 / DMR rifles
Doesn't have the hop up set correctly. Doesn't use the same bucking combo for each hop up. Doesn't use the correct nub for the ML buckings (both should use the matching omega nub). Really it should be the exact same barrel and bucking being used in each hop up chamber to account for tolerances from bucking to bucking and barrel to barrel.
I'd say that 32 grams is to heavy at anything below 1.2 joule. With hpa and propper valve time .3 is the best with aeg .3 or even .28 might give better results.
LOL! So in other words, after all of the r-hop s-hop flat-hop fiddly widdly hocus pocus tweaking is said and done...the good old stock hop up with silicone bucking performs just as well if not better? 😆 Hate incoming!!!!
Hi,
a have few point to you...
50° /60° / 70° / 80° etc is not °C as temperature... its a °shore and its a hardness of the rubber. Also harder ruber dont equals to better accuracy, there is more variables which is depend on...
And Why are you dont use same bucking and nub combo with all chambers? different buckings and nubs will have different accuracy result of course.
And your hop settings / pressure is too low. at 100ft you shoud shoot totally straight and your accuracy results will be better.
Thanks for response
Great Vid Sir! I’ve loved your content since I started here in the UK around 6 years ago! Still providing great intel and opinion I feel,I can rely on! Makes me smile to see independent evidence G&G continue to do such a great, under-celebrated job! Thanks, loved this! Stay safe Sir Replay!
I feel like this wasn’t a very fair comparison because you didn’t only change the hop-up unit itself. It really should’ve been done with the same barrel, same bucking, and same tensioner/nub. Way too many variables. Although the rundown on how a hop-up unit actually works was really good. Another thing to show would be the adjustment range these units offer and maybe some bucking and barrel fitment tests.
It seems every Airsoft test out there seems to have a good premise but then a gaping flaw in the whole testing method that renders the entire test useless 🤦🏻♂️
Your scientific approach of removing variables is great. Subscribed. You did things right, thanks!
For most M4 types the ZCI barrel ZCI Hop-Up and Maple leaf rubber work tremendously well at a fraction of the cost. There is a reason so many well respected techs use this combo.
I want to try a plastic ZCI chamber but can't seem to find any in stock.
@@mtbbiker6401 if you can find a G&G hopup instead, use that. Far better.
@@bryansai6819 Thanks. I purchased G&G. I haven't installed it yet but seems to be a quality piece. G&G is what Neg Airsoft recommends, along with ZCI.
@@mtbbiker6401 for sure, I recommend an omega nub, G&G hopup, maple leaf bucking/rubber(60 degree if you're under 1.4ish joules/400 fps with .2s), and a lambda barrel but zci works just as well on a budget
The G&G rotary is probably the best hop unit one can buy without spending a ridiculous amount of money. And is compatible with just about every AR/ARP RIF. Not too sure on other PCCs/SMGs like MP5s, MP7s, UMPs or AK platforms as I don't really see them that much
I've been out of the game for a long time but I thought you were supposed to be using the Omega nub (or curved equivalent) with the MrHop buckings. I'd expect a flat arm to mess up the curvature of the protrusion inside the bucking which would defeat the concept of how the bucking is supposed to work.
+ Stabilize the inner barrel to outer barrel using any padding.
+ Lock the absolute position of the chamber to the front of the gearbox.
+ Using R-hop or Hop rubber with "multiple concussion points"
+ Do perfect airseal and use ported cylinder at the releasing point to correct the piston head oring before compression phase
+ And tons of other...
Thanks for the video. Learned some good stuff.
Nice video, thorough with the run through on hop up basics. Would love to see a follow up with Krytac rotary and Maxx unit!
Maxx units kinds suck, I've heard the krytac ones are comparable to the G&G G2 Rotary (one in the vid)
I like how you controlled all the variables. However... Those bbs should not have been arching down. More hop was needed for this test.
Preach brotha preach 🙌🏼 0:29
I liked the video, but i feel your science is flawed a bit. Your only control constant was the barrel. When it should be the bucking, gun, and barrel. The barrel should be cleaned and the only variable should be the hopup. You then test once with the normal nub and once with the flat/R hop nub for every hopup chamber. You can do all this with the AEG and the HPA.
Good stuff, I enjoyed the video and look forward to more in this series!!
Remember kids, always chose an ambient temperature appropriate compound for your bucking ;-)
The reason the retro arms wasnt working is because a hop arm that doesn't use a nub that also has a flat contact point, DOES NOT pair good at all with the maple leaf bucking's bb contact point
Does a bad bucking cause the gun to double or triple feed cuz my scar h shoots but some times 2 or 3 bbs come out at once and advice or trouble shoot should I just buy a whole new hopup with a new bucking?
Love your work sir, big respect
Well there are some issues with your testing procedures here. But you knew that and of course it was called out in the comments. That said, you also mentioned, right from the start, that the hop unit is a nebulas thing with lots of variables. 100% agree with that! I have used all of these hop units mentioned in this video, in a lot of different guns over the years. As well as a few of the other, more expensive units not shown here. And I will agree with you, there are all sorts of variables when changing out hop units. There is no one way or one group of parts that is best in every gun. Anyone that says, "do it this way only..." is immediately discounted. Because there's no "one way" to build the same model of airsoft gun. There is no "TM standard" out there. There hasn't been since the first other manufactures came along and started to make their own guns in different ways. They are all different with different specs for their different parts. Luckily some of these parts interact well with each other. Some don't, as you mentioned.
At best, this is a reference video, but I applaud your efforts here. Its a damn funny thing trying to help people. In the end, you did some good work, but need to have a more scientific approach and use the same parts in all setups. Maybe its not possible, but at least try.
Thanks!
Not sure why you would run the retro arms without the nub? It’s essential part of the design as listed on the manual
Sorry for asking if you already answered, but what shape of nub did you use with the pro win hop-up? and if you used another arm, is there another way to improve accuracy without arm replacing.
Great video 👍
if you dont use the same exact bucking your not testing the hop up unit, are you doing this to sway things in your favor? or do you really not know this?
Man adjust ur hop up this test is inaccurate af. All ur bbs are curving down u need to adjust your hop to see how to actually hops
i appreciate your content! he used a standard nub with the g&g hop up with no mr-hop right?
That's a very bad test. You should use Omega nub with maple leaf buckings! Also, you should use exactly the same components for all test units.
this, they should also use the SAME barrel not just same make, ideally high end one like PDI... or if you are using MapleLeaf buckings choose the barrel with window made for these so MapleLeaf or ActionArmy
ActionArmy or PDI 6.01 barrel
MapleLeaf MR hop 60 or 70 shore bucking
MapleLeaf Omega nub
also if your goal is to test the hop up and not the barrel, 510 mm is WAY too long, the shorter the barrel the less it affects the BB
also after much debate and tests and so on, it was found that the longest usable barrel length is 465mm, anything beyond that and all you are doing is making the bb bounce around in the barrel screwing the hop up spin instead of stabilization.
i would use typical +-365mm barrel for test of M4 style hop up unit instead to test "real use scenario" instead of insane 510mm barrel length you will only find in full length M16 / DMR rifles
@@Asghaad thanks I was honestly confused about barrels and buckings and such
What is the function of the horizontally mounted spring on the hop up?
It pushes the entire hop up unit and inner barrel backwards into the air nozzle so that there is a better air seal and therefore a more consistent FPS
@@minecakechase20 thanks
Doesn't have the hop up set correctly.
Doesn't use the same bucking combo for each hop up.
Doesn't use the correct nub for the ML buckings (both should use the matching omega nub).
Really it should be the exact same barrel and bucking being used in each hop up chamber to account for tolerances from bucking to bucking and barrel to barrel.
i thought the number on the maple leaf buckings was the degree of angle on the end of it?? what is the temperature thing?
Damn bro, you're lost
bucking number is rubber hardness
Some hopup chambers undo themselves while shotting , maby that's what happend when used w/a rubber tensioner.
Can I ask what bucking nub was used for the G&G rotary thanks
Up. Same question
Where’s the ProWin with SuperSilicone?
What's your opinion on krytac hop ups?
Those are not temperature ratings they are durometer ratings used to qualify rubber hardness.
Thorough!
which is have high range ?
I'd say that 32 grams is to heavy at anything below 1.2 joule.
With hpa and propper valve time .3 is the best with aeg .3 or even .28 might give better results.
at what distance are the paper targets ?
100 ft
Seemed like a promising test until you decided to use different nubs and buckings. This will skew the results greatly
Very helpful though
G&G hop unit sold out ages ago in Evike and Airsoft gi so anyone knows where else to find it?
www.airsoftatlanta.com/products/g-g-rotary-hop-up-m4-chamber
Umbrella armory sells them for $10 or less...
@@jrairsoft. Thanks for your comment! I ordered and received my G&G from Umbrella.
The engine of the gun whether its GBB/HPA/Spring makes no difference the only way it would be diffenece is if you don't have a good air seal.
LOL! So in other words, after all of the r-hop s-hop flat-hop fiddly widdly hocus pocus tweaking is said and done...the good old stock hop up with silicone bucking performs just as well if not better? 😆
Hate incoming!!!!
People actually take advice from this video. Sad really.
You shoud honestly stick to a stock hopup unit untill you break it.
Hop Maxx vs Hop G&G Plzzzz
Please tell me you don't know anything about airsoft with out telling me you don't know anything about airsoft.
u literaly dont know how to adjust a hop up from a distance, u cant advise us
G&G SRS SRL SRXL come with V2 hop not rotary style.
Prowin needs 👉🗑️
ML rubbers are better flat hopped and used with modify flat nub.