great video helped a ton on wifes bike.... and awesome you specified BB30 and PF30 as the GXP type is completely different, I could see people really messing these up finding the wrong directions. Crazy, but I could not find directions for my Force 1 GXP type on SRAMS site or anywhere else and the directions would differ from model to model on external BB types at least (no BB spacers with Force on 68mm shell but you need two 2.5mm spacers for a MTB GXP cranks with 68mm shell... sometimes with wavy washer sometimes without. Got lucky and my buddies bike came with external GXP and Force so I had something to measure and copy.
Thanks for some great feedback Ray. Iv'e fitted gxp too on other bikes where they have different size bearings on the drive and non drive sides. I too looked on UA-cam for BB30 assembly vids and couldn't find any that really helped. Appreciate the comments and good luck with your bike riding and maintenance.( for the home mechanic )
I would watch Hambini on UA-cam for techinal details about BB standards. PF Bottom Brackets are within the frame whereas external Bottom brackets are obviously wider apart. There may well be proprietary kits that convert your BB issues. ua-cam.com/users/Hambini
Holy crăp lol. I’m working on the same Raliegh right now. The force 22 chainrings are garbage. I thank you for confirming the removal. I use to just remove ish but recently I’ve had a few mishaps that could have been avoided if I just double checked my suspicions.
Have you watched Hambini on UA-cam. He makes quality PF30 Bottom Brackets and explains how some bike manufacturers are rubbish at making bikes. I made this video for the home mechanic because there wasn't a video out there explaining what to do. Best of luck.👍
Just to clarify, for those who might be confused, the frame has a PF30 bottom bracket shell, which is accommodating a BB30 crank. The diameter of the hole in your frame is therefore 46mm in order to accommodate the bearing cups. A BB30 frame in contrast, will have the bearings set directly in a 42mm wide hole in the frame, held in place medially by circlips. Pressfit (PF) is often used in carbon frames because it allows for different cups to be used so as to be able to accommodate different cranks, while keeping manufacturing costs down and making bearing replacement easier. However, if you have a true BB30 frame, there are now adapters that can also be fit in to accomodate Shimano and Campagnolo cranks which have a narrower spindle than 30mm.
Nicely done. I would encourage you to use the BB extractor tool made by many different manufacturers. Your press seems to do the job however I'd be worried about precise bearing alignment and even distribution of pressure around the circumference of the bearing. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the comments and funny you should say that about the correct tools as I have just received a Park BB30 extractor tool with the 2 fitting collars today. This video is aimed at a general over view for the home mechanic because when I looked on UA-cam there didn't seem to be one for the job I was doing.
Śruby trzymające tarcze jedna jest schowana za ramieniem korby w Sram 22 Rival/ Red. Jak ją odkręcić aby wymienić tarcze ? Wystarczy od wewnętrznej strony?! Bo pod ramieniem nie mam jak dojść kluczem
Park tool makes a proper punch that covers the bearing diameter. tap tap tap. It comes with the assembly press tool. The right tool eliminates the risk of frame damage concern. It also opens the door for anytime service
Great, just one comment: for removal, use the Park tool BBT-90.3 to evenly hammer out. For as much as frames cost, and the risk of widening the opening (most are just carbon interface on a carbon frame), $45 is well worth insurance. You'd pay 3x that to have a bike shop do this, and you have the tool to keep. Now if you've got the time to hack the right size PVC pipe with the flare, well...feel free to post your hack. ;)
Good point on the Park tool I am always on the look out for things like that and will get one for my home workshop and yes any more hacks worth developing on the this area I will look into. Thanks for the comments.
I think the pre-load is in the wrong direction? The Park Tool video says to move it in the + first so it's flush with the crank, and once the crank is tightened you turn the pre-load in the - direction to bring it closer to the bike to prevent play.
Thanks for the feedback. I set the preloader until there was no play and it all seemed ok and everything is fine a few thousand miles later. Personally I don't like it. It's flimsy and could be made from a stronger material.
I use a copper pipe and make a cross with a saw and bend the 4 parts out that they can fit just through the hole but then have four contact points to hit it with a hammer.
Good idea Matty. I have now got the Park cycle tool to do this job with a bit more finesse but I have taken bearings out when I was in Industry this way for years.
Yes and Fsa bb30 fsa classic pf30 bearings have spacer on non drive side too. But spacer push preload adjuster when you ride harder and crank became loosen.
@@jurestiplosek3018 Thanks for sharing Jure. I have just fitted a standard Shimano road crankset to MTB frame where the bottom bracket is a wider section so the axle does not go all the way through. I have tightened the none drive side up and seems to be ok but it's not perfect ! I had to rebuild a bike ASAP so I used an old Hardtail frame to keep me on he road.
They can be pretty tight. Be careful Paul. If you are not sure I would take it to bike shop. You could try spraying some penetrating oil repeatedly between the cups and the frame and leave it to soak over night.
This was the whole aim of my video as there wasn't a video out there like it for the home mechanic. I am also a qualified mechanical engineer and if I can't fix a good old push bike then there is something wrong. I ride with people who can't adjust gears or repair snapped chains on the side of the road. I know that in the workshop there will be a lot of emphasis on the bike mechanic being a qualified professional with all the equipment and tools for every job but for me the bike maintenance is just as much a part of the hobby as the riding is .
Cheers, there aren't that many videos out there showing the home mechanic how to do this and yes I agree the locking ring pre load part could be better constructed
Check here for details on the pre loader. I made it after reading guys using elastic bands to hold it together 😲 ua-cam.com/video/IINjQKK7INI/v-deo.html
Check out the link. PF 30 is not the same. I strongly advise you to watch the UA-cam channel called Hambini. He is an aerodynamics aircraft engineer who explains things in extremely accurate detail. He swears a little bit too. He makes his own bespoke BB' for all bikes.
It might not be the same set up as the BB30. Is it a GPX crank set and bearing assembly. It could be similar to a Shimano crankset where you undo that bolt and tap the drive side away from it.
Great video thanks Learning road bikes are completely different to mountain bikes. I am not sure about the pre loader still for the sram. I’ve a new sram red crank set waiting for new bottom bracket as current bb is too wide for sram. Only reason to Change is crank arm length too long, hurts while pedalling.
Thanks for watching. If you are OK with bike maintenance then you will be fine. The preloaded can be nipped up to take the slack out when assembled and then locked with a small Allen key ( hex wrench)
@@retroonhisbikes Yes that's right. I like the BB30 set up but prefer the external bearing assembly for ease if use and servicing I have just put a SRAM red 22 on this bike and like the look of it. The Force 22 was also excellent and didn't have much flex at all. Good luck with your bike mechanicals and servicing. The bike shops can be $$ if you don't know how to fix stuff.
@@retroonhisbikes Do you mean crank length. They are usually 172.5mm or 170mm with others available at 175mm. Ad for the Axle length ? Not sure. Did you have spacers on the bottom bracket.
great video helped a ton on wifes bike.... and awesome you specified BB30 and PF30 as the GXP type is completely different, I could see people really messing these up finding the wrong directions. Crazy, but I could not find directions for my Force 1 GXP type on SRAMS site or anywhere else and the directions would differ from model to model on external BB types at least (no BB spacers with Force on 68mm shell but you need two 2.5mm spacers for a MTB GXP cranks with 68mm shell... sometimes with wavy washer sometimes without. Got lucky and my buddies bike came with external GXP and Force so I had something to measure and copy.
Thanks for some great feedback Ray. Iv'e fitted gxp too on other bikes where they have different size bearings on the drive and non drive sides. I too looked on UA-cam for BB30 assembly vids and couldn't find any that really helped. Appreciate the comments and good luck with your bike riding and maintenance.( for the home mechanic )
Hi please help. I purchased a Force 22 BB30 Is it possible to fit to a BSA 68mm shell?
I would watch Hambini on UA-cam for techinal details about BB standards. PF Bottom Brackets are within the frame whereas external Bottom brackets are obviously wider apart. There may well be proprietary kits that convert your BB issues. ua-cam.com/users/Hambini
Holy crăp lol. I’m working on the same Raliegh right now. The force 22 chainrings are garbage. I thank you for confirming the removal. I use to just remove ish but recently I’ve had a few mishaps that could have been avoided if I just double checked my suspicions.
Have you watched Hambini on UA-cam.
He makes quality PF30 Bottom Brackets and explains how some bike manufacturers are rubbish at making bikes.
I made this video for the home mechanic because there wasn't a video out there explaining what to do.
Best of luck.👍
i have this exact crank set, was about to pay someone eles to replace the BB but now i can do it myself! thanks for the upload!
Glad it helped Strawman - cheers
This saved me today.
I needed to get the rubber mallet as some corrosion locked my non drive crank arm.
Thanks Sizzli, when I checked on line there weren't that many videos explaing what to do, I'm glad it helped.
Just to clarify, for those who might be confused, the frame has a PF30 bottom bracket shell, which is accommodating a BB30 crank. The diameter of the hole in your frame is therefore 46mm in order to accommodate the bearing cups. A BB30 frame in contrast, will have the bearings set directly in a 42mm wide hole in the frame, held in place medially by circlips. Pressfit (PF) is often used in carbon frames because it allows for different cups to be used so as to be able to accommodate different cranks, while keeping manufacturing costs down and making bearing replacement easier. However, if you have a true BB30 frame, there are now adapters that can also be fit in to accomodate Shimano and Campagnolo cranks which have a narrower spindle than 30mm.
Thanks for clarifying this Marc.
Nicely done. I would encourage you to use the BB extractor tool made by many different manufacturers. Your press seems to do the job however I'd be worried about precise bearing alignment and even distribution of pressure around the circumference of the bearing. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the comments and funny you should say that about the correct tools as I have just received a Park BB30 extractor tool with the 2 fitting collars today. This video is aimed at a general over view for the home mechanic because when I looked on UA-cam there didn't seem to be one for the job I was doing.
Thank you very much, you solve my problem, very good video
Thanks for commenting . Be careful tapping the bearing cups out.
Śruby trzymające tarcze jedna jest schowana za ramieniem korby w Sram 22 Rival/ Red. Jak ją odkręcić aby wymienić tarcze ? Wystarczy od wewnętrznej strony?! Bo pod ramieniem nie mam jak dojść kluczem
Do you mean the chain rings ?
They should be quite easy to replace....
Park tool makes a proper punch that covers the bearing diameter. tap tap tap. It comes with the assembly press tool. The right tool eliminates the risk of frame damage concern. It also opens the door for anytime service
I now have the park tool for this job Ken which is simple and effective.
Thank you very much for this great explanation! Greetings from Finland :)
Thanks for the reply. Be careful when tapping out the bearings.
Youre great ! Thank you for the description.
Thank you Julius
Great, just one comment: for removal, use the Park tool BBT-90.3 to evenly hammer out. For as much as frames cost, and the risk of widening the opening (most are just carbon interface on a carbon frame), $45 is well worth insurance. You'd pay 3x that to have a bike shop do this, and you have the tool to keep. Now if you've got the time to hack the right size PVC pipe with the flare, well...feel free to post your hack. ;)
Good point on the Park tool I am always on the look out for things like that and will get one for my home workshop and yes any more hacks worth developing on the this area I will look into. Thanks for the comments.
I think the pre-load is in the wrong direction? The Park Tool video says to move it in the + first so it's flush with the crank, and once the crank is tightened you turn the pre-load in the - direction to bring it closer to the bike to prevent play.
Thanks for the feedback. I set the preloader until there was no play and it all seemed ok and everything is fine a few thousand miles later. Personally I don't like it. It's flimsy and could be made from a stronger material.
well off to the LBS. I dont trust myself on this mate
I don't blame you buddy, it could a costly mistake if something goes wrong
I use a copper pipe and make a cross with a saw and bend the 4 parts out that they can fit just through the hole but then have four contact points to hit it with a hammer.
Good idea Matty. I have now got the Park cycle tool to do this job with a bit more finesse but I have taken bearings out when I was in Industry this way for years.
Good stuff, thanks for posting.
I hope this helps. It can be a tight fit but it will undo. Any advice let me know
Thanks
Thank you John
Informative video and a great home made tool 👍
Cheers,it seemed to do the trick. I prefer the external bearing system which screws into the frame.
nice explaination thanks, and the homemade press is a really good idea :D
Thanks for watching. The bearings are still going strong and creak free.
I don't know if you need a spacer here on drive site. I think than the crank might hits a shifter...?
Good point there Jure, I know on Shimano drive systems you normally have a spacer fitted.
Yes and Fsa bb30 fsa classic pf30 bearings have spacer on non drive side too. But spacer push preload adjuster when you ride harder and crank became loosen.
@@jurestiplosek3018 Thanks for sharing Jure. I have just fitted a standard Shimano road crankset to MTB frame where the bottom bracket is a wider section so the axle does not go all the way through. I have tightened the none drive side up and seems to be ok but it's not perfect ! I had to rebuild a bike ASAP so I used an old Hardtail frame to keep me on he road.
... drive side*
I've got a boardman and find it difficult to get one part out
They can be pretty tight. Be careful Paul. If you are not sure I would take it to bike shop. You could try spraying some penetrating oil repeatedly between the cups and the frame and leave it to soak over night.
Thanks I’ll take it too a bike repair place in Audley range
So my SRAM force 1x has a 8 mm on the drive side not 10mm. The 10 mm is on the non drive side.
Will it undo John ?
Yes
As a DIY job, you've done ok, though it's not how a professional mechanic would do.
This was the whole aim of my video as there wasn't a video out there like it for the home mechanic. I am also a qualified mechanical engineer and if I can't fix a good old push bike then there is something wrong. I ride with people who can't adjust gears or repair snapped chains on the side of the road. I know that in the workshop there will be a lot of emphasis on the bike mechanic being a qualified professional with all the equipment and tools for every job but for me the bike maintenance is just as much a part of the hobby as the riding is .
🤙 THANX
Thank you ..
I think I've probably mangled my frame trying to get these out.. and they're still not out
They can be tight but should tap out.
Love seeing another Raleigh. Is that a Militis?
It is. Probably one of best value super bikes out there.
@@MrDazP1adv3ntures agreed. Mine is a 2014 Militis 2. Been a brilliant bike!
@@tyler.london I have a Revenio 3 which is even lighter with a full DA 9000 set up. What a bike. They are very under estimated.
@@MrDazP1adv3ntures bike check video on that one soon??
Sweet you actually helped. But the freeloader you would think would be on a fine fed. to take up the slack but isn’t 🤔
Cheers, there aren't that many videos out there showing the home mechanic how to do this and yes I agree the locking ring pre load part could be better constructed
Check here for details on the pre loader. I made it after reading guys using elastic bands to hold it together 😲
ua-cam.com/video/IINjQKK7INI/v-deo.html
Hi what bb did you use? Thanks
I am using a sram force 22, I need to install in to my pressfit frame. Does shimano and sram have diff bb for this?
It's a PF 30. I originally thought it was a BB 30.
@@MrDazP1adv3ntures is bb90 pressfit compatible with sram force 22? Thanks again. Bb are confusing 😦
www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/the-complete-guide-to-bottom-bracket-standards/
Check out the link. PF 30 is not the same. I strongly advise you to watch the UA-cam channel called Hambini. He is an aerodynamics aircraft engineer who explains things in extremely accurate detail. He swears a little bit too. He makes his own bespoke BB' for all bikes.
Very good.
Hope this helps but be careful with tapping the bearings out.
i just have an imbus on the non drive side... =?
It might not be the same set up as the BB30. Is it a GPX crank set and bearing assembly. It could be similar to a Shimano crankset where you undo that bolt and tap the drive side away from it.
Inbus*
GPX is a 24mm bearing ID from memory so maybe it's not a PF30
Where do you get the spacer? And how much mm is that?
SRAM BB30 13mm Drive Side Spindle Spacer check this description out on the Evans cycles web page
How many* mm (millimeters) is it?
Great video thanks
Learning road bikes are completely different to mountain bikes.
I am not sure about the pre loader still for the sram.
I’ve a new sram red crank set waiting for new bottom bracket as current bb is too wide for sram. Only reason to Change is crank arm length too long, hurts while pedalling.
Thanks for watching. If you are OK with bike maintenance then you will be fine. The preloaded can be nipped up to take the slack out when assembled and then locked with a small Allen key ( hex wrench)
I’ve just had another little play, and I see what you mean an inner sleeve moves in and out
@@retroonhisbikes Yes that's right. I like the BB30 set up but prefer the external bearing assembly for ease if use and servicing I have just put a SRAM red 22 on this bike and like the look of it. The Force 22 was also excellent and didn't have much flex at all. Good luck with your bike mechanicals and servicing. The bike shops can be $$ if you don't know how to fix stuff.
MrDazp1 had to send the red crank back, got the force 22 crank. The red had short axle. Done two rides with shorter arms knee pain greatly reduced .
@@retroonhisbikes Do you mean crank length. They are usually 172.5mm or 170mm with others available at 175mm. Ad for the Axle length ? Not sure. Did you have spacers on the bottom bracket.
well that explains why my #8 didn't work lol fml
Did you get the crank off ?