After watching this clip, I booked my bike in with Velofix to get this power meter installed. I took the bike in; 30 minutes later, all done and I was on my way. Great service.
Please note, after posting this video, SRAM advised RIDE Media that "all power meter updates are now done through SRAM AXS app." "With MagicZero, riders no longer need to manually calibrate the power meter because it will do it automatically throughout the ride."
also VERY important is to tighten in an alternating/opposite pattern ( as you did in the video), specially with AL parts or things will not torque down evenly and even warp.
The little chainring can only go on one specific way. I experienced shifting problems because i missed up the direction. The text on the ring should face you, and the little indicator inside the ring should be matched with the crank. Watch the video carefully at 5:00.
@@manuelmalagon210 the chain did not change easy and kept rattling. Changed the orientation of the inner ring using the indicator and then it worked perfect. Good luck.
@@Matt-Wolf the exact same issue I’m having and it’s driving me crazy. Fingers crossed that I did this wrong and installed it the other way around. Thanks for the lead!
That 8mm allen on the crank wasn't half tight - had to use gloves and both hands on an extended allen key with foot on the pedal. definitely more than 54Nm from the factory. Good video guys!
I can attest to the fact that getting that 8 mm bolt out of those cranks for the first time is really difficult even using the right tools. It’s funny it can only be set to 54 Newton meters and yet it feels like it’s up to 100 foot pounds. After that this whole thing is cake.
Nice video! Similarly, I have 107 BCD spider with a Sram Force with 46/33 chainrings. My goal is to swap in the new smaller geared “wide” Sram chainrings 43/30. Can I just procure a 94BCD spider (wide BCD) and switch out the 107bcd with the 94bcd spider, so I can install the 43/30 chainrings?
Hi, must the shifter adjust after the installation of the powermeter? I have install the powermeter on my force an now the cage from the shifter is directly on the cain when it is on the big blade. Thanks.
Después de 5 meses rodando con este grupo, ya no puedo más, es escandaloso, han subido los decibelios en la grupeta, con este trasto. Espero que pronto lo solucionen ......
It's not clear in the video - is the little chainring direction specific. i.e. does it matter which side is towards the crankarm? I have this chainset on my bike - don't need to work on it now, but it would be useful to know for later, so I've bookmarked this video. Thx.
Yes i think I made that mistake. The little chainring can only go on one specific way. I experienced shifting problems because i messed up the direction. The text on the ring should face you, and the little indicator inside the ring should be matched with the crank. Watch the video carefully at 5:00.
You say at the begining it is very very tight to undo and takes a lot of force to undo the crank bolt in the first place, but don't show that. I can't budge mine - how big a lever do I need and is it safe on a carbon road bike frame?
Understand your comment completely. When we started, Anthony said: "Ah, mind if we don't film this bit? It's going to be loud and it might scare a few people off - it could look like we're breaking your bike..." He was joking. But then he used the lever you see him tightening the cranks with, only with an additional long lever (a steel tube) over the handle for additional torque... He had another mechanic hold the pedals and together they wrestled until veins were growing in their temples and arms... and then "BANG"... it came undone. It was loud. It did look like they were going to break the bike... but when it was loosened, Ant-man just looked at me and said, "Mechanical work can be ugly at times..." As he says, get a friend and make sure you have strong tools. Or, perhaps, go to a bike shop and ask them to do the job. - Rob
same here, it doesnt move a bit. bought a 1meter steelpipe as a lever and it is still not moving. also i have trouble to fixate the crank/pedals to apply torque. when i put the bike upside down it gets worse cause the wheels are not beeing stopped by the floor.
@@JURSWB88 it worked for me. I have this big Park Tool torque wrench that I put on the reverse then pushed it while holding on the driveseside crank arm.
Hi, I almost pulled the trigger today on this power meter. Luckily I've come across your comment. Such bad news! Any luck with Quark or any other PM and SRAM Force AXS 30/43T chainrings? I have Giant Gravel bike on Force axs 2x and would love to install this hardware.
Does the spider fits in the original force crankset or a specific quarq crankset was needed ? I’m asking this because I own the same system for mountainbiking and I had to purchase a new crankset since the original one has only 3 fixing points so totally impossible to get the spider there...
In this video, the SRAM Force crank is stock, so he was able to just swap out the stock for the Quarq spider. Perhaps your mtn. bike spider is different?
What a shame that the black cover of the SRAM FORCE of outer chainring is made of plastic (including threads you mount T30 bolts at the torque of 12NM). Mine as well as of others had produced cracks on it for no reason and it is very dangerous to ride without replacing it as with the thread broken the bolts have loosened. All bolts have been tightened at the prescribed torque. Now they upgraded to D2 version to remove such a mistake...
Is it necessary to losen the pre-load ring beforehand and tighten it again afterwards? Or can one leave it as it is since it is basically the same cranks?
ua-cam.com/video/Y7F8PPiC9OQ/v-deo.html Watch this video. He explains how the Quarq "splits" the power between both crank arms, but it is really just the drive side only.
@@AOL0321 I think this could be misinterpreted. The Quarq measures total power from both cranks but uses software to estimate the power split between legs. I assume it this does this by assigning power readings to legs based on crank position.
After watching this clip, I booked my bike in with Velofix to get this power meter installed. I took the bike in; 30 minutes later, all done and I was on my way. Great service.
This is so pleasing to read.
Great feedback for the team at Velofix. It’s a great workshop.
Hol much NM for the last step?
This was an EXCELLENT video. Thank you very much!
Will be getting mine fitted when bike and it arrive!
Please note, after posting this video, SRAM advised RIDE Media that "all power meter updates are now done through SRAM AXS app."
"With MagicZero, riders no longer need to manually calibrate the power meter because it will do it automatically throughout the ride."
Hello! Where can i email you for a related but specific question?
@@dannykamikaze3423 Mate, just click on the "About" button and you'll find links to my site, and my social media.
(And the email is also there.)
That’s a good news! No worry and just pedal!
Thanks for the video. Super easy to do.
also VERY important is to tighten in an alternating/opposite pattern ( as you did in the video), specially with AL parts or things will not torque down evenly and even warp.
The little chainring can only go on one specific way. I experienced shifting problems because i missed up the direction. The text on the ring should face you, and the little indicator inside the ring should be matched with the crank. Watch the video carefully at 5:00.
Hi, which shifting problems did you experience exactly? Just trying to figure out an issue I’m having myself.
@@manuelmalagon210 the chain did not change easy and kept rattling. Changed the orientation of the inner ring using the indicator and then it worked perfect. Good luck.
@@Matt-Wolf the exact same issue I’m having and it’s driving me crazy. Fingers crossed that I did this wrong and installed it the other way around. Thanks for the lead!
It worked!!!!!! HA! Thank you so much. That was exactly the issue! Finally this nightmare is over.
@@manuelmalagon210 Your welcome!
That 8mm allen on the crank wasn't half tight - had to use gloves and both hands on an extended allen key with foot on the pedal. definitely more than 54Nm from the factory. Good video guys!
very good explanation
I can attest to the fact that getting that 8 mm bolt out of those cranks for the first time is really difficult even using the right tools. It’s funny it can only be set to 54 Newton meters and yet it feels like it’s up to 100 foot pounds. After that this whole thing is cake.
What grease is used between the spider and crank arm?
Nice video! Similarly, I have 107 BCD spider with a Sram Force with 46/33 chainrings. My goal is to swap in the new smaller geared “wide” Sram chainrings 43/30. Can I just procure a 94BCD spider (wide BCD) and switch out the 107bcd with the 94bcd spider, so I can install the 43/30 chainrings?
Hi,
must the shifter adjust after the installation of the powermeter?
I have install the powermeter on my force an now the cage from the shifter is directly on the cain when it is on the big blade.
Thanks.
Video was nicely done and clear to follow. Does the quarq unit come with new spider and chainring bolts?
What is the BB needed for the izalco max and dub?
Después de 5 meses rodando con este grupo, ya no puedo más, es escandaloso, han subido los decibelios en la grupeta, con este trasto. Espero que pronto lo solucionen ......
Hello. I have a question ... what is the torque for the Sram crank (not the spider)?
54 Nm for the torque on the crank bolts. See about 1:30 into the video.
It's not clear in the video - is the little chainring direction specific. i.e. does it matter which side is towards the crankarm? I have this chainset on my bike - don't need to work on it now, but it would be useful to know for later, so I've bookmarked this video. Thx.
Yes i think I made that mistake. The little chainring can only go on one specific way. I experienced shifting problems because i messed up the direction. The text on the ring should face you, and the little indicator inside the ring should be matched with the crank. Watch the video carefully at 5:00.
Hi - which chainrings are you using?
You say at the begining it is very very tight to undo and takes a lot of force to undo the crank bolt in the first place, but don't show that. I can't budge mine - how big a lever do I need and is it safe on a carbon road bike frame?
Understand your comment completely. When we started, Anthony said: "Ah, mind if we don't film this bit? It's going to be loud and it might scare a few people off - it could look like we're breaking your bike..."
He was joking. But then he used the lever you see him tightening the cranks with, only with an additional long lever (a steel tube) over the handle for additional torque...
He had another mechanic hold the pedals and together they wrestled until veins were growing in their temples and arms... and then "BANG"... it came undone.
It was loud. It did look like they were going to break the bike... but when it was loosened, Ant-man just looked at me and said, "Mechanical work can be ugly at times..."
As he says, get a friend and make sure you have strong tools. Or, perhaps, go to a bike shop and ask them to do the job.
- Rob
@@ride-media Thanks Rob, very helpful and all sorted now. An 18" bar did the trick - a bang but not a big bang and all back on and working now.
Put the bike upside down and you’ll have more leverage as you push the wrench
same here, it doesnt move a bit. bought a 1meter steelpipe as a lever and it is still not moving. also i have trouble to fixate the crank/pedals to apply torque. when i put the bike upside down it gets worse cause the wheels are not beeing stopped by the floor.
@@JURSWB88 it worked for me. I have this big Park Tool torque wrench that I put on the reverse then pushed it while holding on the driveseside crank arm.
Hi, I just tried to install my SRAM AXS POWER METER SPIDER ON A 43/30. It didn’t fit. So disappointing. Can you tell me what your setup is?
Hi, I almost pulled the trigger today on this power meter. Luckily I've come across your comment. Such bad news! Any luck with Quark or any other PM and SRAM Force AXS 30/43T chainrings? I have Giant Gravel bike on Force axs 2x and would love to install this hardware.
Does the spider fits in the original force crankset or a specific quarq crankset was needed ? I’m asking this because I own the same system for mountainbiking and I had to purchase a new crankset since the original one has only 3 fixing points so totally impossible to get the spider there...
In this video, the SRAM Force crank is stock, so he was able to just swap out the stock for the Quarq spider. Perhaps your mtn. bike spider is different?
What a shame that the black cover of the SRAM FORCE of outer chainring is made of plastic (including threads you mount T30 bolts at the torque of 12NM). Mine as well as of others had produced cracks on it for no reason and it is very dangerous to ride without replacing it as with the thread broken the bolts have loosened. All bolts have been tightened at the prescribed torque. Now they upgraded to D2 version to remove such a mistake...
Top
You miss the pre-load step :)
Is it necessary to losen the pre-load ring beforehand and tighten it again afterwards? Or can one leave it as it is since it is basically the same cranks?
It’s dual power meter?
I have this and it is, but my garmin 1030 doesn't recognize the "cycling dynamics".
ua-cam.com/video/Y7F8PPiC9OQ/v-deo.html
Watch this video. He explains how the Quarq "splits" the power between both crank arms, but it is really just the drive side only.
@@AOL0321 I think this could be misinterpreted. The Quarq measures total power from both cranks but uses software to estimate the power split between legs. I assume it this does this by assigning power readings to legs based on crank position.
@@JustinSmith-dn6fj yes it does estimate both cranks, but the actual unit is only on the drive side