Convert From Square Taper to Hollowtech II Bottom Bracket/Crankset
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- Опубліковано 26 лют 2015
- How to remove square taper bottom bracket/cranks and install a Shimano Hollowtech II bottom bracket and crankset. The bottom bracket is a Shimano Ultegra 6800 (BBR60). Most Hollowtech II bottom brackets will require a Park Tool BBT-9 or BBT-19 tool, or equivalent. Due to the smaller diameter bearings/cups of the BBR60, I needed the newer Park Tool BBT-59.
Benefits are the bb is lighter, stiffer, and allows for larger sealed bearings.
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Ian Brown pp
@Ian Brown k'nn
@RJ The Bike Guy, thank you, you are the BEST!!!
@@Ripper7620 AJ? LOL
@@RJTheBikeGuy Sorry, I fixed it.
I love the look of those old chain rings. It's what's preventing me from upgrading my old steel frame.
I haven't been in bicycling for years, yet I'm still passionate as its the best mechanical contraption ever engineered for the human body. You're videos have enabled the masses what is current, what is technically superior, and what is the new standard in the industry. And your "how to, DIY approach" is quite amazing. Anybody that is "technically challenged" can perform their own changeovers and upgrades with your easy narration and clear videos. Thanks again RJ. Keep-up the great work. .
RJ has the best bike videos. I built a custom fixie for my son, and restored an old tandem using parts from two scrap bikes and a tandem frame I got for free, mainly with info from RJ's videos and memories of working on my Schwinn 20 years ago. Now I'm restoring a mountain bike I got for $20 on Craigslist for my husband.
Rebekah Maccaby ooh wifey is perfect
Are there any more clones of you! 😂
No nonsense, clear and informative. One of the most useful videos I've come across in years. Will subscribe and look at the others. You're providing a sterling service to cyclists and the interweb.
Nothing is better than old-school b.b's.
Looks way better RJ. 😎
Speaking of Raleigh. My friend found an ole Raleigh full suspension & used the threadless front end on his motorized Haro. I gave him 20 for swing arm which happened to fit my broken Motobecane DS 600 swing arm. Couldn't believe it bolted right up to it. It also raised it up some 👍 👍
Except for the cable stops didn't line up. But my friend said there's something to fix that. Sure was nice riding bike until that last 8 - 10 ft wall I jumped off of. Broke a weld & couldn't find another one
One little tip for the preload cap is to screw it in tight then unscrew it then just screw it back in until it just touches the crank , that will set the preload perfectly with no undue stress on the bearings , nice vid mate keep them coming ;)
Still the best video on UA-cam for updating vintage cranks to Hollowtech II. Straight to the point! the tip on Ultegra BB new diameter tool will save me lots of frustration. Thank you
Excellent and informative video. Nice to update on new bicycle technology especially next generation in cranksets, bottom brackets, and drive trains in general. This Hollowtech upgrade is definitely the way to go. Thanks RJ - you're the best !!
I'm currently running an old '93 Ultegra crank on a square tapered bottom bracket and was thinking about upgrading to Shimano 105 5800 Hollowtech on a bike I've owned since new and have recently rebuilt.
Your tutorials are superb, I've learn a lot. Thank you very much.
My friend inherited his dad's Zunow Hummingbird and wants to put Hollowtech crank on it since the drivetrain is worn out and needs to be completely replaced. I balked a little since this is such a classic bike and it has all its original components. This video will let us get it done. THANKS RJ!!!
thanks so much rj. Found a tommasini in Malawi - literally in the middle of the bush! now upgrading to ultegra
Once again, thank you. Very helpful indeed. I have an old Paconi with Shimano 600 and a suntour sprint crank. I’ve been thinking of updating everything to 105 11 speed instead of getting a new bike, the bottom bracket part was confusing me a lot, but now thanks to you I’m going to give it a shot!
Thanks. As always, informative and useful. Really appreciate the consistent quality that you provide. Cheers
Could not possibly be any clearer. Your vids are the best, sir. Thank you.
This is just great! Finally I get the answer I was looking for since a while: So _it is possible_ to change the old massive axe for a new modern one! Now I know I can update the hole drive train of my so beloved 25 year old steel frame, which was handmade to my personal specs. You can't imagine how happy your video made me, thanks!!
(even my local bike shop couldn't tell me much about this upgrade)
Much more detailed than some of the other videos I've watched. Spot on 👍
Thanks great information 👍 Using only this as a tutorial I've just successfully removed the slx hollow crank bb from a donor bike and refitted to my wife's lower spec mtb that's I'm modernising.
Normally a bb's are job I'd farm out, but now having bought the right tools I'm set for the future! Thanks RJ.
Another great RJ video. I recently picked up an old FUJI Sagres that had been sitting outside for a very long time. Everything is badly rusted but I'm slowly bringing it back to life. The paint and decals are in good shape. Taking care to not damage the bike cosmetically, I removed the wheels and bolted the frame to a 4"x4"x10' with two long lag bolts run through the kickstand bracket and a scrap 2"x4"x7" across the rear of the frame, as clamps to hold the frame so I could get leverage enough to twist the seat post out using a large pipe-wrench. That went well with the help of some boiling water on the seat post tube and some PB Blaster. But then came the bottom bracket which I removed today. After removing both ends I discovered 12 very grimy ball bearings caked in old grease and sand on one side and 8 dry and equally bad bearings on the other side. There is also no dust cap inside the frame so the rusty crank axle may be trash. After watching this video my question is; how do I measure to determine what size bottom bracket to purchase to convert the old school loose bearing system to the sealed bearing bottom bracket? Thanks for any help.🚲
Hey mate, just wanted to say a big thank you for all your uploads and because of them I was confident enough to upgrade my own bike. The only thing that's original is the frame and forks lol. I've just done my final upgrade (for now) changing out the old cotter pin crank to a hollowtech II. The difference is night and day! I couldn't be happier with the bike now and I owe a lot of it to you and your videos. So thank you for all the knowledge you've passed on and I'll pay it forward to someone else.
Cheers, Phil.
,s,
The best cycle maintenance channel on youtube. Much obliged RJ.
Rj ma man, you never disappoint, yet again another on point video what a legend
Excellent. Doing the exact same job on my 80's vintage original Univega Superstrada.
Thanks!
That bike looks exactly like my first bike build from way back in the day, I had to order the frame after my first Raleigh frame cracked…it was a special order frame. Brought back some fond memories for me…thank you.
Very good teacher just I bought a Shimano front chain & BB to adapt on my old son's VTT. Perfect fit even for my French
Thanks-that was really clear and gave me some hope that I can manage to do this on my own bike. I'm a relative newbie, so I appreciate it.
Thanks for the video. I just took by 2017 mountain bike to upgrade my drive train, the tech guy barely looked at my bike and said he could not do the upgrade. I had the parts, but just wanted it professionally done. Will do it myself and take it to another shop to do the alignment of the gears if I can't get it work. Thanks.
Really easy to follow video. I'd also encourage mentioning the simplicity of the Shimano bottom bracket design. No little ball bearings, hardly any nuts to tighten, no more cone wrenches needed once you're onto the new stuff, just one very large bearing in each end of the bottom bracket part, and still the ease of fit and alignment that goes with threaded bottom brackets.
Excellent video, made it totally clear what to do. I didn't have time to get my hands on a BBT-59 so I used the plastic adaptor. It did not last long! I dunno why they don't supply an alloy one (well, yeah it's cheaper to go with plastic I guess). Anyway, I managed to screw the BB pretty tight even with a crack in the adaptor ring. I've now got the latest '11-speed' 5800 105 chainset installed. Running it with an 8-speed chain and a 7-speed cassette on an 11-speed hub (with correct spacer, again thanks to your video on the matter) and everything's smooth as hell. So much for compatibility issues...
I'm gonna upgrade to the full 11-speed 105 groupo eventually but it's nice to know the new parts work with older stuff.
Again, many thank for the great videos!
Ev Sekkides Since you have upgraded yours, does a seven speed freewheel hub works together with 9 speed cassette. Because what I believe, I need to change the freehub (OR my whole rims to a new one basically)
Syahmi Mazne ua-cam.com/video/qcgz3-XyNkI/v-deo.html
Love this channel. Solved soooo many problems. Clear & precise.thanks.
this was SO useful when changing my bb. Thanks you so much!
Thanks a bunch I used your video to change my Lemond to a 50/34. I will add I needed to take out a couple links in the chain. Small gear to small gear the chain was a touch to long. Your video was super helpful.
Very informative. This is exactly what I need for my next project, which is to covert Shimano Sora 3x8 with square taper BB to Shimano 105 2x10.
Simple. Straight forward. Easy to understand. Thanks!
This is just the information I need for the Geminiani frame I got. Yaaaaay thank you for this older video
Quick, no nonsense, excellent job on your tutorial video
Your videos are very helpful man. I've always wanted to wrench on my own bikes but don't know how. Keep me coming & thank you!!!
Keep them coming. Darn auto correct. Lol
Perfect explanation. I was getting ready to do this and needed help. Thanks
you have a really nice channel with awesome videos. kind of makes me want to work on my 20 year old, dusty, cheap 'mtb' and add some newer stuff.
This is what an instructional video needs to look like. Thank you so much!
Amen to that.
One of the most useful videos i've ever seen
Thank you for this video! Exactly what I needed.
Hi RJ, thanks for the informative video. I am looking to change my FSA BB30 crank to Shimano 105.
thanks alot for that one, you are actually the only one out here that documented this kind of swap, at least that i could find ( none obviously were in my native language XD) i was worried about the excess width that hollowtech woud bring to the shifter, but if it's only a matter of tuning it again, that's not a problem :D thanks again
Thanks, I needed that. I have to replace cranks on my Trek Marlin 6. Now to find affordable
Always nice videos!! Keep on coming!!!
RJ! New sub - I'm really, really enjoying your channel! I think you are a great teacher - your running commentary let's me know exactly what you are thinking at any given time, and also what pitfalls to watch out for if my situation is a bit different from what you are demonstrating. Pure excellence! Many thanks!! I'm inspired to do even more complicated bike maintenance han I ever have attempted before and maybe even try some bike modifications.
Question, if you have time: I just bought a 2018 Raleigh Rowdy (16" wheels) for my 5yo son. The bottom bracket seems to have a bit more friction than I'd like, and I think I can feel the ball bearings like when a headset is cranked down too much - but it's definitely not clunky or lose. It's a cheap, square taper 68 or 70mm cartridge (I think), listed at 113mm in the specs (haven't had it apart... yet). Is there any way to adjust this, you think? Also, I was thinking of maybe swapping in a Shimano UN55 - do you think it might be worth the effort?
Thanks again, regardless of if you answer.
Brilliant video. You made it appear so easy. Well done.
Very clear and beautifully presented, nice one
I loved how clear and informative this video was. Somehow, your voice sounds familiar, similar to Martin Roberts', from Homes Under the Hammer :)
RJ THE BIKE GANGSTA.
Becoming my favorite tech bike channel
Easy to follow as always. Great.
Very informative. Thank you
Good info, I didn't know you could change the type of bottom bracket from square taper to a different style, I have square taper, so maybe I'll change mine out. Thanks again.
Glad I could help!
I've been looking for a vid like this.!!
FYI - There is NO preload on the hollowtech bearings, it's a cartridge bearing.
When you install the left crank arm the plastic tool is to pull the crank arm on to the spline and ensure it's fully seated against the splines and back of them.
As long as the arm is fully seated, flip the tab down, and tighten the pinch bolts to spec.
Very useful and clear! Thanks!
Subscribed! Awesome video thanks!
What a great vid. Amazing.
great instructions thanks
Really helpful. Am about to upgrade the 3 x 9 speed Tiagra on my Trek 1.5 winter bike to 2 x 10 speed 105 and will be taking out old square taper bb and replacing with one of those new BB-R60 Hollowtech ones. I've seen various people say the Shimano tool adapter for these new smaller bearings just shreds (a one time only use tool) so I've ordered one of the Park Tool BBT-59 tools and also one of the BBT-10 ones for the tensioner caps (I just don't trust the little plastic disc ones... had plastic spoke tool that came with some Mavic wheels just disintegrate first time I tried to use it). Will get enough use out of them to justify owning as will also fit my girlfriend's bike and bottom brackets never seem to last all that long.
WHAT IS THE REASON TO CHANGE 27 SPEED BIKE TO 20 SPEED BIKE?
If anything change it to 3 x 11...it is always better to have more speeds to spread the force on different slopes....right?
+Sunshine Yes more gears are better for a wider range of terrain that can be covered. However in most places roads would rarely became so steep that you need to use gears 1, 2, 3 on a 3x11 to go up a climb an also no one who is an amateur cyclist would go so fast that gears 31, 32, 33 would be needed. So therefore it is a lot of extra unnecessary weight slow someone down while climbing. Also having 33 gears would make the chain rub in nearly all gears making it inefficient and very noisy.
"chain rub in nearly all gears". Nope only in small-small combinations for me, which I never use. Middle ring and even big-big work fine.
"alot of unnecessary weight" a granny cog weighs a few grams about 30-50g.
setting up gears can be more finicky initially and you do have a few extra grams, easily outweighed if you ever come across some crazy steep hills.
Really as a non-pro there are basically no arguments against triple
Ive learned so much from these videos. They have aloud me to fully restore a vintage bike to like new condition.
Thanks, great work.
thanks very clear instructions
Great video! Thank you very much!
oh you already have the exact video I need 😊
Thanks for the informative video but since I am old-fashioned I have kept my bikes that have the fixed and adjustable cups that way so I can just replace the loose ball bearings. But everyone has their preference. I have bikes that are 40 years+ old and the races are perfect. Have a nice day.
Lightnin , I too have a classic bike that has loose ball bearing setup in cranks . I would not swap or sell this bike because it has been kept so well . Cro mo frame is such a sweet ride .
Thanks for the vid!
watch at half speed if you wanna see a drunk rj work on a bike
Thanks for that, it gave me a giggle in these dark times.
Hilarious.
You should try 1.25 or 1.5 speed. You get a highly excited RJ 🤣
Excellent vid.
I didn't know that its just a matter of plug and play. I thought you need to do a lot of machining. interesting
There are some odd sizes/threadings, like old Ralieghs and French bikes.
That is exactly what I supposed too. So good to see it doesn't have to be very complicated!
love your torque wrench
Awesome!
great video.
RJ, Love your videos, finding them very informative since I maintain all of the bikes in our house hold.
To the point, typically i tighten the preload cap just to the point where the "security tab" pin will drop into the hole and be flush with the crank arm. It didn't look like you did this. Did my eyes play tricks on me?
thanks , keep them coming.
It was pretty loose and went in pretty much on it's own.
I figured since I forgot to mention that I have a triple crankset and takes a spacer. With that in place it takes a couple of turns, by hand , before it would flush in.
Anyways, thanks again
Nice video. I followed this to convert from a square tapered BB to a Hollowtec 2. Now what's the torque wrench you used?
Nice video thanks
It's a very nice clasdic crank set...
My first good bike was bought from a doggy guy in moss side Manchester.. had it resprayed pearl white and noticed all the Mollard logos on the bar joints. Must have been a quality frame as bike shop offered to buy it and then offered advice on setting up it's gear cables.. they were set at the end if the handlebars. Touring racer from 70s with original fittings.. had chrome centre pull brakes with brass logos everywhere.. I rode the bottom bareing right through the bb housing..49 mile a day commute was too much for the old girl. It crank teeth were shark fined too .. left me in love with bikes and mechanical engineering.. thank you mollard I was too big for you 501 tubing and maverick rims..
great video!
excellent video
Hi RJ, thanks to all your videos. They're all very useful for a guy new to bike building like me.
I recently bought a vintage Oyama (Taiwan) road frame. I believe it has a 71mm BB shell width and I want to upgrade it with the hollowtech BB.
Will it be possible to fit it to my frame?
My plan is to keep it 7 speed, using newer crank (Shimano Sora at my disposal).
Thank you very much.
hey @RJ, mind doing a video showing the process to service a hollowtech II bb? ithe replacement of the outboard ball bearings.
Thanks
i think def need more commentary on why to go for this upgrade...how does it affect performance and enjoyment of ride
The point of the video is how. Not why. But with external bearings it can make the cranks stiffer and less flex. They allow for larger bearings, so potentially longer lasting. Lighter. You can research them elsewhere.
Au contraire, facing is pretty essential; the one-piece sealed units aligned both bearings permanently inside the inner canister, so shops lost the skillset. External cups once again make facing important. You can tell if any paint remains on the face of the frame at the BB shell, it has never been faced, which means the cups are unlikely to seat squarely parallel to each other after tightening, leading to more friction, and premature wear of the external bearings. Proper facing tools cut material off the outer faces until parallel, and cranks will live long and prosper.
More likely old bike has chipped paint on the very edge outer bearing sits so i think facing is a must. Of course one can try getting lucky but i prefer doing it properly.
Thanks!
❤❤❤🙋♂️🙏💯👍🌟🚵♂️🚵♂️😎👁did my first bottom bracket hollowteck conversion looking at your video 5 years ago. Thank you much Rj.❤❤❤🙋♂️🧑🔧🙏🚵♂️🚵♂️💯💯😎🌟🌟
Great video. I'm planning on upgrading a vintage Peugeout with a whole Tiagra 4700 groupset, which I'll take from my Giant TCR. My biggest doubt was about the BB, which I'm not entirely sure will be compatible. However, for what I sa in this video, I'm pretty confident it will work out. :)
Arthur Araújo I’m also using the tiagra 4700 to do an upgrade! :)
Thanks, I have an old Apollo 12 speed which means I need a complete groupset and a new rear wheel which will take a cassette instead of a freewheel. I am also looking at the Tiagra 4700.
Very nice bike this is.
Great video, thanks! But why do you need to preload the bearings with the BBT-9 tool on this kind of external bottom bracket? GXP bottom brackets do not seem to require preloading of the bearings: what's the difference? Thank you!
Hey RJ!
I recently got all the parts from my vintage frame and when the paintjob is done I'll be able to upgrade the bike with some new stuff. The drivetrain that was orginally on the english threaded (68mm) bike was Shimano exige sport.
(square tapered with biospace sis 52 and 42 cranksets).
Since the crankset, chain, cassette, front and rear derailleur, front and rear wheels + hubs have worn a lot and have cracks and dents all over, I thought it best to upgrade to a complete new drivetrain (keeping the brake levers and the old style levers to change gears).
The problem for me is however that I don't know where to look with my limited knowlegde in parts. What I am looking for is a high quality drivetrain preferably between 350 and 450 euro's. I still want to keep the old brakes levers as well as the levers situated on the frame next to the knees to change gears with. So I have to be sure that the new derailleurs and brakes are compatible with those levers.
What I eventually found was the Shimano 105 (5800 Groupset - 52/36 11/32) which I would be able to afford. Do you have any thaughts on this, or do you maybe have other suggestions/ possibilities? Do you know wether the levers I mentioned above are compatible with it?
Thank you already in advance, your video's are a great source of information!
I mostly buy my parts used on ebay. Some new on eBay or Amazon or wherever.
Awesome instructional vid as usual, RJ. I just switched from 8 speed to 10 speed rear on my tri bike. You're a great help. Hope to shake your hand someday to say thanks.
Did you notice any difference afterthought upgrade? If so, what was it?
Thanks!
hi RJ, nice vid. Just to say that I thought getting the frame faced (and thread chased) was in order to ensure both bearings seat exactly parallel - and hopefully aligned straight ahead. Otherwise if both faces are not exactly parallel then when installed, there is uneven pressure on the bearings giving premature and uneven wear on them.
I am no expert but thought it might be a useful contribution.
Peace RJ.
Nice. Be good if your torque measurement were consistent. BB = inch/pounds : Crank bolts = Newton/meters. Personally, I prefer Newton Meters and most Shimano recommendations are in Nm . Would appreciate some insight on which BB you chose due to the width of your BB shell area. Great instructional video. Keep up the good work!
most are 67mm to 73mm ,.with 67 you can use superthin washer 😊spacers if needed
Ive learnt so much from your channel, love it mate! Ive upgraded a few of my old frames with square tapered bottom brackets and i know the spindle length is important with what crankset you have to give enough clearance to the chainstays. With the hollowtech they all seem to be the same so if the clearance is determined by the crank axle length how will i know if i will have enough frame clearance on an older/different frames?
On square taper cranks, the spindle length is in the specs of the cranks. Different cranks are made to use different lengths to put the chainline all about the same. Hollowtech cranks have only two lengths (road and mountain).
@@RJTheBikeGuy awesome thanks mate!
Nice
What is the best way to avoid trial fitting crank sets by ordering and returning...a chart of possible vintage crank barrel scenarios perhaps.
Awesome guy. I was thinking about converting my old square taper to hollow tech and also upgrading from 5spd free hub to 10 speed cassette system. But the rear drop out width is only 120mm. New wheel set won’t fit into the frame. So I kinda gave up. Sticking with 2x5...
ua-cam.com/video/YdibmxBuMy0/v-deo.html
I did it. Cold set the frame. The BB was French BB. I had to get cartridge style JIS square taper BB/spindle. I chose 48/34 chainring combo and Ultegra RD and 11-28 cassette. Now it rides like a dream!
@@goldflashgly513 Cool!
Good video. How about Changing from sealed internal bottom bracket to external on an Electra Straight 8?
+Michael Goodwin Probably the same thing.