Anytime you open the bleeder screw you must bleed the braking system. Manually and with a computer thru the ABS system. You can avoid all that by opening the reservoir and compressing the caliper pistons slowly.
You right in that you don't have to go to the level of detail we do to change your brakes. But there's a difference in doing it and doing it right. All the steps we go through were recommended by an ASE certified mechanic.
Awesome video guys. Very concise, I love how you went through all the required parts beforehand and everything. I just used this video as a guide to replace the rotors & pads on my 2006 Chevy Silverado 1500. The only thing I'll add is, whoever did the rotors on it last must have been He-Man. I actually broke my 3/8" ratchet trying to get the 18mm caliper mounting bracket bolts off (using a cheater bar). So my recommendation to anyone else reading this is make sure you've got a 1/2" 18mm/19mm socket and not just 3/8" just to be sure. I also got by without clamping the brake lines or bleeding. I just clamped very slowly and kept an eye on the brake master cylinder level as I went. Great job guys and thanks again!
+Chuck Claunch Glad we could help and sorry about your 3/8 inch ratchet. The caliper mounting bolts can be pretty tight especially if they have thread lock on them. Also I would never recommend using a cheater bar on a 3/8s ratchet. -Greg
Very helpful video guys! No matter how Positive you try to make things in life like a simple video about changing brakes, there is always someone Negative!
Thanks guys. Great video!!! I'm doing my 2007 corvette brakes this weekend and this was a great Chevy Brake design tutorial. Same design on the Vette as the Sliverado. Just different sizes. I love the bungee cord idea. Been using wire hangers for years........
Good video guys. Complete and well explained. I don't bleed the caliper as I'm compressing it but as all good mechanics know, brake fluid attracts water over time and affects the quality of it. I empty and bleed my brake reservoir and all four brakes every summer to keep fresh fluid in my truck. Keep those wrenches turning! Appreciate adding the torque specs as well.
Well done -- many videos show just compressing the rotor pistons, without bleeding them off, but rather pushing it back through the master cyl. I believe this can damage the ABS master cyl. Your method of bleeding is preferred.
Alot of time the lock washers are old and don't work as well as they once did.. The lock tight doesn't make the bolts unremovable it just holds them in place and helps keep the torque settings. Thanks Greg
RR Videos Actually, I found out the hard way you should ONLY use a Silicone product like Silicone Paste or Syl-Glide. NEVER use hi temp Brake/caliper grease or anti-seize on the guide pins, it will gum up, cause the pins to stick and make the rubber boots / parts swell.
Malcom Texeira Actually, I found out the hard way you should ONLY use a Silicone product like Silicone Paste or Syl-Glide. NEVER use hi temp Brake/caliper grease or anti-seize on the guide pins, it will gum up, cause the pins to stick and make the rubber boots / parts swell.
Changing the rotors is up to you. It would be best if you can get them resurfaced at the very least. The old rotors are usually a little out of round and the new surface helps break in the new pads. Thanks Greg
I think all that brake fluid business is unnecessary. If you compress the pistons with a c-clamp from the get-go, it just pushes the fluid back into the reservoir. Then there is no need to do it twice or bleed the brakes.
We show the right way to do it. Yes you can cut corners and feel free to do that on your own vehicles but when we present a how to video we do our very best to insure we do it the right way. All of our videos were reviewed by an ASE certified mechanic. -Greg
I have never had my wife's car worked on and screwed up by any mechanic that wasn't certified. One of them even twisted a lug bolt off and then had to repair that and order a special lug nut. UA-cam will show you dealership screw ups. All of them are certified. Don't put so much confidence in those guys..
Greg Cook Actually all the ASE mechanics in my town refuse to work with bleeders which have become chemically welded to the housing. They charge the customer for a whole new caliper instead; "You dont want to pay me labor for fixing up those bleeders" Which is why alot of people maintain their own cars. Its alot easier to push the pedal down, crack a bleeder open to let the corroded fluid out instead of pushing it out by compressing the piston with a c clamp...alot can go wrong doing it like you did.
My 2005 Silverado has torx head guide pin bolts. Be advised, there are several different brake systems for 2005 silverados, depending on where they were made. For some parts, such as hardware kits, you have to bring the option code from the vehicle label to get the correct parts.
Bob Sands No I am sorry I do not, but I bought a set of torx heads to 3/8 socket at Home Depot (husky lifetime guarantee, sears moved out of town) fairly cheaply. Maybe you can look up the price on line.
As for as brand Wagner's are good. But we usually just recommend ceramic pads. Most house brands offer a ceramic pad option. Ceramic handle heat better and they don't have as much brake dust and semi-metallic.
Just done this on my 04 , wasnt as complicated as yall made it look . You definitely dont have to remove the full wheel face , just take the center cap off
if you simply compress the calipers very slowly, the whole bleed thing is not necessary. I also never use the new hardware or the anti-seize. I live in the desert where things never rust or get in bad shape. It might be different around salty roads, lots of rain, or other bad weather.
It would be nice to provide a printable list of the torque values for the various fasteners. Also, noting the difference between two wheel drive and four wheel drive would be useful. Good video. Thanks
At 9:30, If you've already got locking washers, why would you need lockseal gel put on the bolts? Doesn't this make it harder for the next brake job? I want my truck to last another 5 years or more.
Is it common for there not to be a retaining bolt on the rotor? My 4x4 doesn't seem to have one, or holes for backing off the rotor. But I can't get the rotor off, is there something (other than rust) holding it on?
If you're rotors have been replaced before then the rotors might not have the hole for the retaining bolt. Nothing else should be holding the rotor on. I would suggest getting a manual for your truck from a local auto parts store. -Greg
My '03 chevy 1500 has the original brakes (I bought the truck new) and is ready for front pads and rotors. Would you suggest a brake fluid flush (i.e. - via the bleeding method) for all 4 wheels while I am bleeding the front brakes, and if so, do I follow the traditional "farthest away from the M/C" (RR, LR, RF, LF) sequence? Great video, BTW - thanks.
I would only replace the brake fluid if it appeared really dirty. I usually wouldn't in a lower mileage truck like yours but it wouldn't hurt to do it. I would start at the RR and bleed and add fluid until the fluid comes out clean. Then I would move to the LR, RF, LF and do the same. -Greg
Mr572u There are no flaws and nothing dangerous. We had these videos reviewed by an ASE certified mechanic. This is the right way to do the job period. Can you cut corners and still do the job, yes. But this is the right way. -Greg
what threadlocker did you use red or blue it looked like red in the video. I want to use the correct locker that GM calls for. but I also want to be able to remove them when it needs break pads again.
Loosening and installing them it doesn't matter but when you do the final tightening and torquing them you should use a crisscross pattern. We state and show that in the video. -Greg
thanks for a great video and such a Quick Response! I think I will use red on the Bracket Bolts and Blue on the Caliper Bolts. Do you think that would be Good?
After a little research I totally agree. Red should be fine for the caliper mounting bolts. But with the smaller guide pins bolts I believe it would be better to use the blue. I will make a note of this and change how we do our videos. Thanks for the suggestion. -Greg
I have a question on my 2004 chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 I took the front drive side wheel off and I can move my rotor back and forth the only thing stoping it from coming off is my brake pads and on my passenger side it tight on there is it supposed to be that way or is something wrong please help me
Being tight is normal. To remove it I would suggest doing like we do in the video and use a clamp to compress the piston in the caliper and you should be able to remove it. Be sure to open up the bleeder screw when doing this. Greg
Greg Cook He said his rotor was loose. Usually they are loose because they are only sandwiched between the hub and the wheel.. The lug nuts are what hold it secure. Some trucks have small screws that hold it to the hub on 4-wheel drive vehicles, but most of them are just a snug fit. Sometimes rust will stick a rotor to the hub. A whack on the back side with a rubber hammer will knock it loose.
john moore well someone could have ruined a new rotor, cleaned it up, and sent it back to the Advance Auto Warehouse for credit. Then they shipped it to you.
john moore You can get a bad part from the factory. I have never had a bad rotor but I have had other parts that were defective when I bought them. -Greg
One more question. Why do you compress the pistons before taking the caliper off?? Won't the come off otherwise?? I've never had to do that on other vehicles........
Sorry for the late reply. We compress the piston to make it easier to remove the caliper. It's not always necessary but when the rotors wear down a ridge forms around the outside edge. Sometimes because of this ridge the caliper can be difficult to remove since the pads ride against the rotor. By slightly compressing the piston it gives more room to remove the caliper. Greg
When you put the new pads in, they will be thicker than the old ones were. You have to push the pistons in to accommodate the new thickness, regardless of a ridge on the rotor.
Mr572u The question was why do we compress the piston before we remove the caliper from the caliper holder. Yes you will need to compress the piston all the way when you install new pads and the video shows that. -Greg
My rotor was glued to the wheel housing. You say it comes off easily and that could be a lie for some people. I tightened the M10 bolts and they did nothing
Wow.. Where do you live or where did the truck live? We worked on one that spent most of it's life in Michigan and the rear rotors took a lot of persuasion to remove. -Greg
@@N_FORCE_5 Thank you for letting us know. We forget that people live in different parts of the country and what might be simple one place isn't so simple somewhere else. -Greg
Smashing a brake line closed will damage it. There is an inner liner that can crack, releasing fluid to the outer liner which is softer. It could then blow out during hard braking. Then it's game over. Don't do it, You don't need to anyway..
I don't know where you get your torque specs. If you torque these small bolts to 133 ft. lbs. they will break. Lug bolts don't even get that much torque.
We get our torque specs from different sources but usually from a Chilton manual. We torque we stated is correct and yes we torqued to 133ft lbs and they didn't break. Lug nuts can be torqued to 135 ft lbs or more. Depends on the size of the wheel stud. -Greg
Greg Cook Well good luck getting the wheel off, on the side of the road with a lug wrench. Discount Tire torques them @ 75 ft. pounds. By the way, to achieve the torque on those small bolts you suggest, would take a near 70 pound pull with a 2 foot bar. That's ridiculous.
This guy is doing WAY too much. Why the hell did he remove the wheel cover?? It's attached to the wheel... when you take the wheel off, it comes off with it. It just stays on the rim. Is a total waste of time. Then to take it off BEFORE the center cap... it made ZERO sense.
+Dr. Seymour Butts Pushing the brake fluid back up into the master cylinder can push debris into the ABS system. Small chance I know but a chance still the same. -Greg
Not big into pinching the brake lines due to premature failure on another vehicle. Don't forget to use sil-glyde on the pins. Excellent video!
Thank you for your feedback. Yes I use to not pinch the lines until it was recommended by an ASE certified mechanic.
Anytime you open the bleeder screw you must bleed the braking system. Manually and with a computer thru the ABS system. You can avoid all that by opening the reservoir and compressing the caliper pistons slowly.
You right in that you don't have to go to the level of detail we do to change your brakes. But there's a difference in doing it and doing it right. All the steps we go through were recommended by an ASE certified mechanic.
Awesome video guys. Very concise, I love how you went through all the required parts beforehand and everything. I just used this video as a guide to replace the rotors & pads on my 2006 Chevy Silverado 1500. The only thing I'll add is, whoever did the rotors on it last must have been He-Man. I actually broke my 3/8" ratchet trying to get the 18mm caliper mounting bracket bolts off (using a cheater bar). So my recommendation to anyone else reading this is make sure you've got a 1/2" 18mm/19mm socket and not just 3/8" just to be sure. I also got by without clamping the brake lines or bleeding. I just clamped very slowly and kept an eye on the brake master cylinder level as I went. Great job guys and thanks again!
+Chuck Claunch Glad we could help and sorry about your 3/8 inch ratchet. The caliper mounting bolts can be pretty tight especially if they have thread lock on them. Also I would never recommend using a cheater bar on a 3/8s ratchet. -Greg
Yeah sure enough. At least it's a Craftsman so the mistake gets me a new ratchet :)
Very helpful video guys! No matter how Positive you try to make things in life like a simple video about changing brakes, there is always someone Negative!
Thanks guys. Great video!!! I'm doing my 2007 corvette brakes this weekend and this was a great Chevy Brake design tutorial. Same design on the Vette as the Sliverado. Just different sizes. I love the bungee cord idea. Been using wire hangers for years........
Good video guys. Complete and well explained. I don't bleed the caliper as I'm compressing it but as all good mechanics know, brake fluid attracts water over time and affects the quality of it. I empty and bleed my brake reservoir and all four brakes every summer to keep fresh fluid in my truck. Keep those wrenches turning! Appreciate adding the torque specs as well.
Well done -- many videos show just compressing the rotor pistons, without bleeding them off, but rather pushing it back through the master cyl. I believe this can damage the ABS master cyl. Your method of bleeding is preferred.
Thanks for this video. I just replaced my rotors, calipers, and pads on my 2006 GMC sierra using this video as a reference and everything went smooth.
mictdave1 Awesome.. I am glad we could help.-Greg
74 ft-lb worked fine? i have a 2007 silverado classic, same body as 06.
Alot of time the lock washers are old and don't work as well as they once did.. The lock tight doesn't make the bolts unremovable it just holds them in place and helps keep the torque settings.
Thanks
Greg
Don't forget to pump the brake pedal a few times after the work is complete. Good video!
After we bleed the brakes you should have a nice firm pedal but it's always a good idea to double check before you drive it.
Thanks
Greg
Don't forget to service the guide pins. They are supposed to be cleaned and lubricated with anti-seize.
Malcom Texeira That's always a great idea. I don't remember if we did that in this video or not but if we didn't then should have.-Greg
Greg Cook No you should use high temperature grease---the anti seize is just going to heat up and oxidize.
RR Videos Thanks for the tip.
-Greg
RR Videos Actually, I found out the hard way you should ONLY use a Silicone product like Silicone Paste or Syl-Glide. NEVER use hi temp Brake/caliper grease or anti-seize on the guide pins, it will gum up, cause the pins to stick and make the rubber boots / parts swell.
Malcom Texeira Actually, I found out the hard way you should ONLY use a Silicone product like Silicone Paste or Syl-Glide. NEVER use hi temp Brake/caliper grease or anti-seize on the guide pins, it will gum up, cause the pins to stick and make the rubber boots / parts swell.
Changing the rotors is up to you. It would be best if you can get them resurfaced at the very least. The old rotors are usually a little out of round and the new surface helps break in the new pads.
Thanks
Greg
I think all that brake fluid business is unnecessary. If you compress the pistons with a c-clamp from the get-go, it just pushes the fluid back into the reservoir. Then there is no need to do it twice or bleed the brakes.
We show the right way to do it. Yes you can cut corners and feel free to do that on your own vehicles but when we present a how to video we do our very best to insure we do it the right way. All of our videos were reviewed by an ASE certified mechanic.
-Greg
I have never had my wife's car worked on and screwed up by any mechanic that wasn't certified. One of them even twisted a lug bolt off and then had to repair that and order a special lug nut. UA-cam will show you dealership screw ups. All of them are certified. Don't put so much confidence in those guys..
Greg Cook It's not cutting corners, it's common sense.
Mr572u
I agree with you. I have never done this step either.
Greg Cook Actually all the ASE mechanics in my town refuse to work with bleeders which have become chemically welded to the housing. They charge the customer for a whole new caliper instead; "You dont want to pay me labor for fixing up those bleeders"
Which is why alot of people maintain their own cars.
Its alot easier to push the pedal down, crack a bleeder open to let the corroded fluid out instead of pushing it out by compressing the piston with a c clamp...alot can go wrong doing it like you did.
My 2005 Silverado has torx head guide pin bolts. Be advised, there are several different brake systems for 2005 silverados, depending on where they were made. For some parts, such as hardware kits, you have to bring the option code from the vehicle label to get the correct parts.
Bob Sands No I am sorry I do not, but I bought a set of torx heads to 3/8 socket at Home Depot (husky lifetime guarantee, sears moved out of town) fairly cheaply. Maybe you can look up the price on line.
RR Videos The option code is in the glove compartment and can be something like JH0, JF3, and others
RR Videos or just go to harbor freight and buy 28 of them for the same price as 1 Husky.
stephenmwyatt2 I prefer craftsman.. :-)
-Greg
Greg Cook they deserted our town...anyhow they became picky about replacing tools.
As for as brand Wagner's are good. But we usually just recommend ceramic pads. Most house brands offer a ceramic pad option. Ceramic handle heat better and they don't have as much brake dust and semi-metallic.
Just done this on my 04 , wasnt as complicated as yall made it look . You definitely dont have to remove the full wheel face , just take the center cap off
if you simply compress the calipers very slowly, the whole bleed thing is not necessary. I also never use the new hardware or the anti-seize. I live in the desert where things never rust or get in bad shape. It might be different around salty roads, lots of rain, or other bad weather.
It would be nice to provide a printable list of the torque values for the various fasteners. Also, noting the difference between two wheel drive and four wheel drive would be useful. Good video. Thanks
Man that rotor looks a lot better than mine 😂
Thanks for posting this!
Very nice Video. This will help a lot of people.
Thanks for the kind words. -Greg
At 9:30, If you've already got locking washers, why would you need lockseal gel put on the bolts? Doesn't this make it harder for the next brake job? I want my truck to last another 5 years or more.
this video helped a lot. I was able to change my brakes without issue. by any chance do you have a video for rear drum brakes on the 2005 silverado?
Is there any specific brake pads that I should buy? -2005 Chevrolet Silverado
Quality job guys! Doing one this weekend.
Is it common for there not to be a retaining bolt on the rotor? My 4x4 doesn't seem to have one, or holes for backing off the rotor. But I can't get the rotor off, is there something (other than rust) holding it on?
If you're rotors have been replaced before then the rotors might not have the hole for the retaining bolt. Nothing else should be holding the rotor on. I would suggest getting a manual for your truck from a local auto parts store. -Greg
thanks for each details
My '03 chevy 1500 has the original brakes (I bought the truck new) and is ready for front pads and rotors. Would you suggest a brake fluid flush (i.e. - via the bleeding method) for all 4 wheels while I am bleeding the front brakes, and if so, do I follow the traditional "farthest away from the M/C" (RR, LR, RF, LF) sequence? Great video, BTW - thanks.
I would only replace the brake fluid if it appeared really dirty. I usually wouldn't in a lower mileage truck like yours but it wouldn't hurt to do it. I would start at the RR and bleed and add fluid until the fluid comes out clean. Then I would move to the LR, RF, LF and do the same.
-Greg
Excellent presentation.
There are flaws, especially if you don't know any better. Some are dangerous.
Mr572u There are no flaws and nothing dangerous. We had these videos reviewed by an ASE certified mechanic. This is the right way to do the job period. Can you cut corners and still do the job, yes. But this is the right way.
-Greg
Would a 2004 Silverado 4x4 have the same replacement steps?
Great Video!
I think it should be very close.
Greg
what threadlocker did you use red or blue it looked like red in the video. I want to use the correct locker that GM calls for. but I also want to be able to remove them when it needs break pads again.
It looks like we used red in the video but I am not sure what GM calls for. -Greg
Can you leave the retaining screw off if you strip it and need to drill it out?
Great Video
I had been told all my life that you loosen and tighten lugs crisscross from each other …. By every tire person ever
Loosening and installing them it doesn't matter but when you do the final tightening and torquing them you should use a crisscross pattern. We state and show that in the video. -Greg
thanks for a great video and such a Quick Response! I think I will use red on the Bracket Bolts and Blue on the Caliper Bolts. Do you think that would be Good?
After a little research I totally agree. Red should be fine for the caliper mounting bolts. But with the smaller guide pins bolts I believe it would be better to use the blue. I will make a note of this and change how we do our videos. Thanks for the suggestion. -Greg
+Gregory's Garage I mean red for the caliper mount bracket bolts. -Greg
Thanks keep up the Great videos!
liked your video great job thanks
You're welcome and thanks for the feedback. -Greg
Do you have to change the rotors when you change brake pads?
I have a question on my 2004 chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 I took the front drive side wheel off and I can move my rotor back and forth the only thing stoping it from coming off is my brake pads and on my passenger side it tight on there is it supposed to be that way or is something wrong please help me
Being tight is normal. To remove it I would suggest doing like we do in the video and use a clamp to compress the piston in the caliper and you should be able to remove it. Be sure to open up the bleeder screw when doing this.
Greg
Greg Cook He said his rotor was loose. Usually they are loose because they are only sandwiched between the hub and the wheel.. The lug nuts are what hold it secure. Some trucks have small screws that hold it to the hub on 4-wheel drive vehicles, but most of them are just a snug fit. Sometimes rust will stick a rotor to the hub. A whack on the back side with a rubber hammer will knock it loose.
Can you send me the link where you bought those brake pads
I can’t find them anywhere
I believe we got those from Advanced Auto. I will check and make sure. -Greg
Is it possible for a new rotor to be warped..?
john moore well someone could have ruined a new rotor, cleaned it up, and sent it back to the Advance Auto Warehouse for credit. Then they shipped it to you.
john moore You can get a bad part from the factory. I have never had a bad rotor but I have had other parts that were defective when I bought them.
-Greg
One more question. Why do you compress the pistons before taking the caliper off?? Won't the come off otherwise?? I've never had to do that on other vehicles........
Sorry for the late reply. We compress the piston to make it easier to remove the caliper. It's not always necessary but when the rotors wear down a ridge forms around the outside edge. Sometimes because of this ridge the caliper can be difficult to remove since the pads ride against the rotor. By slightly compressing the piston it gives more room to remove the caliper.
Greg
When you put the new pads in, they will be thicker than the old ones were. You have to push the pistons in to accommodate the new thickness, regardless of a ridge on the rotor.
Mr572u The question was why do we compress the piston before we remove the caliper from the caliper holder. Yes you will need to compress the piston all the way when you install new pads and the video shows that.
-Greg
Greg Cook How do you remove a rotor from a caliper holder? Is it 5-o'clock where you are?
Mr572u You got me..
awesome thanks 74 ft lb.
You are welcome. -Greg
Greg, thanks for uploading this great video!
My rotor was glued to the wheel housing. You say it comes off easily and that could be a lie for some people. I tightened the M10 bolts and they did nothing
Wow.. Where do you live or where did the truck live? We worked on one that spent most of it's life in Michigan and the rear rotors took a lot of persuasion to remove. -Greg
Indiana
@@N_FORCE_5 Thank you for letting us know. We forget that people live in different parts of the country and what might be simple one place isn't so simple somewhere else. -Greg
you could use an air hammer if you have one next time.
No we don't. We wanted to do one but haven't been able to work it into our schedule.
Good video I WAS TOLD TO NOT PINCH THE BRAKE LINE IT CAUSES DAMAGE THE THE HOSE IS THIS TRUE ?
We have never had a problem with it. We have done this procedure to several vehicles of different makes and models.
Thanks
Greg
Greg Cook You don't need to do it at all. The pistons will compress without messing with the brake line.
Mr572u When you compress the piston it will force fluid back up the line if it's not pinched.
-Greg
Greg Cook Exactly. So what's wrong with that? It goes to the reservoir. Don't you know how brakes work?
Smashing a brake line closed will damage it. There is an inner liner that can crack, releasing fluid to the outer liner which is softer. It could then blow out during hard braking. Then it's game over. Don't do it, You don't need to anyway..
Would a 2004 Avalanche be any different??
They are the same basic body style so I would think they would be very similar.
Greg
Greg Cook Thanks, that's what I thought too.
can't I just remove the fluid cap and not bleed the brake lines?
You can and I do sometimes. The procedure we show in this video is how our ASE mechanic told us to do it. -Greg
Gregory's Garage cool. thank you. can I jack it up using a 2 ton jack?
I am sure you can. I normally use a 3 ton jack just for the higher lift it provides. Make sure you use Jack stands. -Greg
I don't know where you get your torque specs. If you torque these small bolts to 133 ft. lbs. they will break. Lug bolts don't even get that much torque.
We get our torque specs from different sources but usually from a Chilton manual. We torque we stated is correct and yes we torqued to 133ft lbs and they didn't break. Lug nuts can be torqued to 135 ft lbs or more. Depends on the size of the wheel stud.
-Greg
Greg Cook Well good luck getting the wheel off, on the side of the road with a lug wrench. Discount Tire torques them @ 75 ft. pounds. By the way, to achieve the torque on those small bolts you suggest, would take a near 70 pound pull with a 2 foot bar. That's ridiculous.
Pretty sure you're messuring in. lbs. Not ft. lbs. on this...
And not one Goddamned site for doing a 4WD. What size is that goddamned nut holding the rotor on.?
well its been eight months ago I guess you figured something out
This guy is doing WAY too much. Why the hell did he remove the wheel cover?? It's attached to the wheel... when you take the wheel off, it comes off with it. It just stays on the rim. Is a total waste of time. Then to take it off BEFORE the center cap... it made ZERO sense.
my way you don't have to bleed the brakes
+Dr. Seymour Butts We got this procedure from an ASE certified mechanic. I agree there are other ways to do it but this is the correct way. -Greg
+Gregory's Garage 10 4 I know
no no no use a c-clamp push that fluid back into the master cylinder. Duh
+Dr. Seymour Butts Pushing the brake fluid back up into the master cylinder can push debris into the ABS system. Small chance I know but a chance still the same. -Greg
Hi
well I guess everybody does it different
+Dr. Seymour Butts Yes and I have done it more than one way too. -Greg
that's what my wife told me on our honeymoon. well I guess everybody does it different 😄
this cant be ASE certified your not wearing gloves AHHHHHH jk but still star bit and the two bolt thing is so dumb though
Not exactly sure what your saying but yes these were reviewed by an ASE certified mechanic. -Greg
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