Thnx again! ! Not only am I goin in on my back brakes, your tutorial was easy enough, for me to do all four corners. Did rears wrong and got tired of takin off and puttin on wheels n brakes 4 times but I don't remeber these vids on UA-cam last year hen I had this prob. I'm trying to fix as much as I can DIY on my own cause owning a Dodge and Ford keeps me pretty busy all year round under the hood of both!!
I realize this is an old video, but for anyone watching this, it's advisable to use high temp caliper grease on all slider pins and pad contact surfaces. Never Use Anti-Seize! I also recommend to loosen master cylinder cap and placing rags around it to catch brake fluid when compressing caliper pistons instead of loosening bleeder valve. Less change of air getting into system.
Just bled my brakes (the right way finally and this vid helped alot haha I know lubes but brakes I've never dealt with and it was a learning curve haha
Thanks for the video. I have never tried to change brakes but after watching the video(about 10 times), I gave it a shot. The video was very detailed. Thanks for saving me a few hundred bucks.
Job done. Perfect. Thank you. The only thing I might add was to show the inner and outer pad identification. Mine was with a red and blue dot. Great job.
An ASE certified mechanic suggested we do this.. It keeps any debris in the lines from going up into the anti-lock brake system and causing damage. It's a small chance but we wanted to show the right way. Also since the line is rubber we pinch it just hard enough the close the line. It doesn't damage the lines.
THANKS for the video Greg ! Very detailed and gave me the confidence to do my very first brake job. Damn good job too. Saved me some $ Hope you're able to post more vids on dodge rams 1500. Thanks again !
Hey guys, thanks for the video. I hope I can give some constructive criticism and that it's taken in the spirit of making You Tube a reliable place for information. It's not a bad idea to keep track of screw locations, and put all screws back into the holes from which they came. Good call on the anti seize, but it should go absolutely everywhere the shoes will travel, including surface contact areas where replacement hardware kits go. Noise will be completely eliminated this way. When removing old rotors (GOOD CALL on replacement!) use a wire brush on the hub, making sure to remove all rust on the mating surface where the new rotors make contact with the hubs. Next time, you will NOT have to bang those rotors off. When you used a C Clamp to drive the caliper back into the ass'y, you appeared to (hard to tell from the angle, light, etc) abuse the rubber a bit. Remember, this rubber's purpose is to keep contaminants OUT of the caliper body. Any compromise of that rubber is asking for trouble by way of ingress of crud, dust, and contaminants into the system. Lastly, never underestimate the power of gloves! Again, thanks for the video, guys.
Hi Greg, Great Video! I try compressing my front dual piston calipers on my 2003 dodge ram 2500 with a c clamp & fluid refuses to to back to master cylinder (cap removed) (both driver/passenger sides act this way) the last time I changed pads 9 years ago they compressed easily this way. I heard maybe the inside of the rubber brake hoses maybe breaking down not allowing fluid back to the master cylinder (acting as a check valve per-say). Have you heard of this or some other reason?
Maybe someone else commented on this, but after you had to beat the old rotors off with a sledge, why not apply anti-seize on the wheel hub so someone wouldn't have to suffer through that again?
That's a very good idea. We live in the south and that usually doesn't happen around here because the roads are rarely salted. But this truck had spent a lot of it's life in Michigan. -Greg
Do you need to open the bleeder valve when compressing the piston? or can you just remove the brake fluid cap and push the piston back with the C-clamp?
+k300zx You can do it either way. The reason why we open the bleeder screw is to prevent any debris in the brake fluid from flowing up stream into the ABS unit. I have done it both ways with the same results but the way we show it is a little safer. -Greg
Nice video, but I have a question. When pressing the piston back into the caliper sometimes the rubber boot round the piston wants to bubble out instead of folding neatly back onto itself and into the caliper, any ideas on how to remedy that or does it matter?
i just changed front and rear breaks on my 2004 dodge ram 1500 4wd. I cant get the breaks to bleed correctly and hold pressure. any tips you could offer?
Were you having problems with your brakes holding pressure before you changed the brakes? If so it's probably the master cylinder. If any of the calipers are the problem then you would be fluid leaking from them. -Greg
No only after I changed brakes since then I have changed all the calipers and all but the brake line that runs from the front brake block to the rear and still no fluid getting to the back brakes
rtay0311 So no fluid is getting to the rear at all? Vehicles used to have proportioning valves but I think it all runs through the ABS unit now days. If you're sure the master cylinder is good then I would look at the ABS unit. -Greg
hello greg cook im concern with something, i did the same thing u did i did that to my dads 05 ram 1500, resurface rotors, new ceramic brakes, and we bought new front calipers because no auto part had the caliper seals so we replaced the calipers, but i left the hose hanging i know i messed up there but oh well it was to late to clamp it so when i installed everything and i was done i bleed the braking system from back to front as a sequence but i still got a spongy pedal so i bleed again i did it more the 5 times, so i called for help from an experience mechanic well he's old now and he explain what else i can try and i did i bleed the master cylinder but nothing still a spongy pedal so he came over and we checked the master cylinder and he tested and he saw that the secondary piston had no pressure so he told me to go to the auto parts and buy a new one so i did, then i came back and installed the new one and we bench bleed the master cylinder, so then we checked the pedal but still the spongy pedal, then we tried bleeding the proportioning valve from all four wheels and we bleed that way but still again a spongy pedal, we test drove the truck but nothing the brake pedal seems to just sink to the floor, we bleed the brakes with the engine on and off but nothing still and then we bleed the abs and nothing still with the pedal to the floor when we pump the brakes it seems to grab pressure but i know theres something else that is bad because we cant drive that way. so my question is what else can be wrong? im so confused why doesnt it work what did i do wrong or what did i miss? well thank you in advance greg cook, if u cant help thanks anyways. well sorry for the story but i just need help.
I really don't know and you have already done the things I would of suggested. Sometimes people complain that they don't like the feel of ceramic pads and go back to a semi-metallic but I don't think that would be what your describing. Another thing could be you that you got a defective caliper from the auto parts store. Greg
Thomas Chan I really don't know since your van is a 1 ton and the truck we changed brakes on was a 1/2 ton. With that being said hopefully they will be similar. -Greg
I have a question , I just replaced my front brakes on my 04 dodge ram and rotor and when push on my brakes I can literally hear my caliper grabbing on the rotor can u give me some advice on what may be the problem
Hey. My is jerome I have a Ram Dodge 1500 it have a 4. 7 L I am have trouble with my break it trembles real bad when I mash on break I change the rotor on an upper and lower ball joint can you help me
If you're talking about the press fit washers then they don't need to be reinstalled. They are used at the factory to keep the rotor in place on the assembly line and are usually destroyed or damage when removed. Thanks Greg
Great video. I already knew how to change the brakes on my Ram but I watched this video just to be sure I didn't forget anything. Thanks
You fellas did an awesome job!!! Well laid out and I love you how go through each step not assuming we rookies know. Thank you
You're welcome. I am glad the video was helpful.
Greg
Thnx again! ! Not only am I goin in on my back brakes, your tutorial was easy enough, for me to do all four corners. Did rears wrong and got tired of takin off and puttin on wheels n brakes 4 times but I don't remeber these vids on UA-cam last year hen I had this prob. I'm trying to fix as much as I can DIY on my own cause owning a Dodge and Ford keeps me pretty busy all year round under the hood of both!!
Your welcome again.. It's no fun redoing a job.
-Greg
I realize this is an old video, but for anyone watching this, it's advisable to use high temp caliper grease on all slider pins and pad contact surfaces. Never Use Anti-Seize! I also recommend to loosen master cylinder cap and placing rags around it to catch brake fluid when compressing caliper pistons instead of loosening bleeder valve. Less change of air getting into system.
Just bled my brakes (the right way finally and this vid helped alot haha I know lubes but brakes I've never dealt with and it was a learning curve haha
I took of the cap off. And after I put everything back together I have spongy brakes
@@jasond513Did you bleed the brakes, all 4? If not, start with right rear, left rear, right front and left front in that order.
@@markrowlett5034 no. Weird they went back to normal
@@jasond513 That's Good!
Thanks for the video. I have never tried to change brakes but after watching the video(about 10 times), I gave it a shot. The video was very detailed. Thanks for saving me a few hundred bucks.
Job done. Perfect. Thank you. The only thing I might add was to show the inner and outer pad identification. Mine was with a red and blue dot. Great job.
Thanks for the tip.. I am not aware of any pads being marked that way. What type did you use?
Thanks
Greg
ADO ceramic each pad in a set was marked with a red or blue dot which correlated to the colour picture on the box
An ASE certified mechanic suggested we do this.. It keeps any debris in the lines from going up into the anti-lock brake system and causing damage. It's a small chance but we wanted to show the right way. Also since the line is rubber we pinch it just hard enough the close the line. It doesn't damage the lines.
Thanks so much Greg we really appreciate the step by step detail...Just did my Ram 3500 front brakes with your help ;o)
You're welcome..
-Greg
great video very helpful , i have a 2001 1500 and its time to replace rotors and pads and now i believe can do them myself. thanks
Excellent instructional video, very well done, great video angles to show whats being done. Thanks!
keep the videos coming on the Rams ...perfectly explained!
Thank you and we hope to. -Greg
Thank you so much your video helped me get this done in a snap.
You're very welcome..
-Greg
THANKS for the video Greg ! Very detailed and gave me the confidence to do my very first brake job. Damn good job too.
Saved me some $ Hope you're able to post more vids on dodge rams 1500. Thanks again !
You're very welcome.. Glad we could help.
-Greg
Hey guys, thanks for the video. I hope I can give some constructive criticism and that it's taken in the spirit of making You Tube a reliable place for information. It's not a bad idea to keep track of screw locations, and put all screws back into the holes from which they came. Good call on the anti seize, but it should go absolutely everywhere the shoes will travel, including surface contact areas where replacement hardware kits go. Noise will be completely eliminated this way. When removing old rotors (GOOD CALL on replacement!) use a wire brush on the hub, making sure to remove all rust on the mating surface where the new rotors make contact with the hubs. Next time, you will NOT have to bang those rotors off. When you used a C Clamp to drive the caliper back into the ass'y, you appeared to (hard to tell from the angle, light, etc) abuse the rubber a bit. Remember, this rubber's purpose is to keep contaminants OUT of the caliper body. Any compromise of that rubber is asking for trouble by way of ingress of crud, dust, and contaminants into the system. Lastly, never underestimate the power of gloves!
Again, thanks for the video, guys.
Thank you for your feedback. We'll consider everything you shared with us. -Greg
Great Video. I was wondering what is the purpose of clamping the brake hose with the pliers? Does that damage the brake hose? Thanks
Okay, thanks for answering my question. I have a 2008 Dodge Ram 1500 mega cab.
is should be pretty much the same process.
Thanks
5 stars! you guys are good!
Thank you.. -Greg
Thank you for the feedback that is what we love to hear..
Pretty damn awesome and in depth video.Thanks
very well put together, thanks
Thank you and you're welcome.. -Greg
Also, since you did not secure the rotors, they must be secured by the tightening of the lugnuts on the tires?
Thanks
Very nice video. Very well explained.
Thank you. -Greg
Hi Greg, Great Video! I try compressing my front dual piston calipers on my 2003 dodge ram 2500 with a c clamp & fluid refuses to to back to master cylinder (cap removed) (both driver/passenger sides act this way) the last time I changed pads 9 years ago they compressed easily this way. I heard maybe the inside of the rubber brake hoses maybe breaking down not allowing fluid back to the master cylinder (acting as a check valve per-say). Have you heard of this or some other reason?
Are the pistons moving? Or are they stuck? -Greg
Yes they are held in place by the wheel once the lug nuts are tightened.. Thanks
Maybe someone else commented on this, but after you had to beat the old rotors off with a sledge, why not apply anti-seize on the wheel hub so someone wouldn't have to suffer through that again?
That's a very good idea. We live in the south and that usually doesn't happen around here because the roads are rarely salted. But this truck had spent a lot of it's life in Michigan. -Greg
Very helpful....thanks Guys!....
You're very welcome. -Greg
Do you need to open the bleeder valve when compressing the piston? or can you just remove the brake fluid cap and push the piston back with the C-clamp?
+k300zx You can do it either way. The reason why we open the bleeder screw is to prevent any debris in the brake fluid from flowing up stream into the ABS unit. I have done it both ways with the same results but the way we show it is a little safer. -Greg
no
Great video. Very helpful. Thank you.
Nice video, but I have a question. When pressing the piston back into the caliper sometimes the rubber boot round the piston wants to bubble out instead of folding neatly back onto itself and into the caliper, any ideas on how to remedy that or does it matter?
If this happens I usually try to push it back in place by hand as I am compressing the piston..
-Greg
i just changed front and rear breaks on my 2004 dodge ram 1500 4wd. I cant get the breaks to bleed correctly and hold pressure. any tips you could offer?
Were you having problems with your brakes holding pressure before you changed the brakes? If so it's probably the master cylinder. If any of the calipers are the problem then you would be fluid leaking from them.
-Greg
No only after I changed brakes since then I have changed all the calipers and all but the brake line that runs from the front brake block to the rear and still no fluid getting to the back brakes
Master cylinder is good maybe its the abs module?
rtay0311 So no fluid is getting to the rear at all? Vehicles used to have proportioning valves but I think it all runs through the ABS unit now days. If you're sure the master cylinder is good then I would look at the ABS unit.
-Greg
Thanks I dropped it off at the dealership. Its there problem now lol
hello greg cook im concern with something, i did the same thing u did i did that to my dads 05 ram 1500, resurface rotors, new ceramic brakes, and we bought new front calipers because no auto part had the caliper seals so we replaced the calipers, but i left the hose hanging i know i messed up there but oh well it was to late to clamp it so when i installed everything and i was done i bleed the braking system from back to front as a sequence but i still got a spongy pedal so i bleed again i did it more the 5 times, so i called for help from an experience mechanic well he's old now and he explain what else i can try and i did i bleed the master cylinder but nothing still a spongy pedal so he came over and we checked the master cylinder and he tested and he saw that the secondary piston had no pressure so he told me to go to the auto parts and buy a new one so i did, then i came back and installed the new one and we bench bleed the master cylinder, so then we checked the pedal but still the spongy pedal, then we tried bleeding the proportioning valve from all four wheels and we bleed that way but still again a spongy pedal, we test drove the truck but nothing the brake pedal seems to just sink to the floor, we bleed the brakes with the engine on and off but nothing still and then we bleed the abs and nothing still with the pedal to the floor when we pump the brakes it seems to grab pressure but i know theres something else that is bad because we cant drive that way. so my question is what else can be wrong? im so confused why doesnt it work what did i do wrong or what did i miss? well thank you in advance greg cook, if u cant help thanks anyways. well sorry for the story but i just need help.
I really don't know and you have already done the things I would of suggested. Sometimes people complain that they don't like the feel of ceramic pads and go back to a semi-metallic but I don't think that would be what your describing. Another thing could be you that you got a defective caliper from the auto parts store.
Greg
Greg Cook
well i dont think i got defective calipers because when the brakes are depressed i try to rotate the rotors and i can't.
Hi Greg, will this video tutorial works for 1999 dodge ram B3500 van V8-360 5.9L? thanks again for an amazing video :- )
Thomas Chan I really don't know since your van is a 1 ton and the truck we changed brakes on was a 1/2 ton. With that being said hopefully they will be similar.
-Greg
Greg, thanks for the quick response. Happy Independence day! :- ) your video help me learn about cars in general, for a beginner. ;p
I have a question , I just replaced my front brakes on my 04 dodge ram and rotor and when push on my brakes I can literally hear my caliper grabbing on the rotor can u give me some advice on what may be the problem
What kind of pads did you use? Semi-Metallic? Also did you lubricant the caliper slides?
Greg
No I didn't luv them not sure on brake pads got them from autozone ill find out wat type of pads
What size hose are you using for the bleeder screw
Why ceramic pads over semi- metallic?
We prefer the way they feel and they don't produce the brake dust of a semi-metallic.
Greg
You're very welcome..
Greg
can you just use brake grease on the new hardware?
Yes you can. Any high temperature grease should work. -Greg
Thanks for the help, great video!
Hey. My is jerome I have a Ram Dodge 1500 it have a 4. 7 L I am have trouble with my break it trembles real bad when I mash on break I change the rotor on an upper and lower ball joint can you help me
Jerome Watson You may need to carry it to a shop to have it diagnosed. My guess would of been the rotors but you said you replaced those.-Greg
I have removed everything and installed the new ones, but the plates heat up and make a noise. I do t know what it might be, please help
Are your calipers dragging? Have you bleed your brakes? -Greg
I am not sure. We bought the bleeder kit from the local auto parts store. Sorry I am not more help..
Greg
Thanks for the video , see even 60 year old "girls" can do it ! Probably be sore tomorrow though lol
Iodine31 Millhouse Awesome. I am glad we could help. -Greg
That’s the worst thing to do is to put never seize on brakes. It will gum up and stick
We have started using high temperature caliper grease on the caliper pins. Thank you for your comment. -Greg
👍👍👍👍👍 ^^
Where are the driveshafts?
Its a 2wd truck. -Greg
you did not put on retaining clip on rotor
If you're talking about the press fit washers then they don't need to be reinstalled. They are used at the factory to keep the rotor in place on the assembly line and are usually destroyed or damage when removed.
Thanks
Greg
ok thanks