Keep in mind brake hoses don’t always clog both ways. They can act as a “one-way” system where fluid goes into the line but not back out when the brake pedal is released.
This might be the solution! I’ve been battling a left front brake problem for quite awhile. Every time they replace the exact same parts that you just mentioned, but never the master cylinder. I didn’t think that a bad MC could affect only one wheel. Thanks for the video!
@@boydmerriman It doesn't. That single line off the MC goes back to the ABS module(or a block before the module) and splits off from there. His repair here in no way fixed ONE front caliper. Either the hose is rotten internally on that side or the there's an ABS issue.
You are an excellent teacher. I am about to replace my 3 caliper on my truck and now I know that I need to possibly look a little deeper at the situation. Thank you!
Hey brother, it is the pushrod from your booster needing to be adjusted to your new master cylinder. The pushrod has a nut which can be tightened or loosened to shorten or lengthen the distance to the master cylinders piston. If a brake booster pushrod is too far forward (too "long") it will cause the master cylinder to have preload. This is your case. Preload on the master cylinder will cause the internal piston to never fully retract and release internal pressure causing your exact problem. In normal operation the piston will close the vent to the brake fluid reservoir as soon as any force is applied thus allowing pressure to build so the caliper can function properly. When the brake pedal is released and the piston retracts fully, only then will the valve be open allowing fluid and pressure to be released from the calipers. A brake booster push rod adjustment tool will help set the proper length of the push rod. Hope this helps, ask me how i became an expert !
Thank you so much for this video. I had a caliper lock up on me, got it replaced and the system was still holding pressure. You saved me a great deal of time and money. I really appreciate you putting this out.
I have a 98 Silverado and I’m having the same issue. I replaced calipers twice thinking I had bad calipers. After watching this I believe it’s my hose. That means the original calipers probably weren’t even bad lol. Either way i learned something.
It's interesting that only one wheel was getting effected. I thought anything to do with the master cylinder/ brake booster would at least effect two wheels. I learned something valuable from this video.
wow my truck was doing just this. i changed all the same stuff and when i seen your video my brake booster and brake master cylinder was leaking. so this video was very helpful. i really appreciate you thank you so much
Thank you I really appreciate you walking me through some of the symptoms that I am having with my 2003 Yukon Denali brakes sticking. I replaced the brake calibers still sticking. Maybe it's my Brake Booster or Master cylinders.
Wow im 5:02 in and i already gotta say thanks. Excellent way to rule out the caliper itself, by cracking the bleeder. Im currently beating my head against an 2007 and a half 2500 Duramax. Front pass. Caliper keeps sticking. Its so bad with a heavy load it completely destroys/crumbles the pistons in the caliper. Ive done caliper, rubber line, all associated hardware, twice now. New rotor the first time. No brake fluid is being lost anywhere... Ill check my master cylinder next and finish this video of course lol
Very helpful video. Now, I have to go check my truck out. Thought it might be the hose, but your video makes me think it is the master. A few test to figure it out. Thanks.
Very helpful. I had the exact same issue on the same side.. and unfortunately replaced all those same parts. Problem did not go away. thank you for the helpful information!
@@robschwiesow would engine vacuum cause the same to happen? I noticed when i would disconnect the MC from the booster, the brakes would release and would be fine for another trip around the block before the pedal gets hard and brakes lock up again
Well the way I see it is that yes the MC was defective and brake booster was toast for sure indeed however the brake locking up was not SOLVED by this fix because my MC is not leaking and booster is dry AF. And my left front brake is still locking up after replacing ALL the same parts listed!
Thanks for the video, it's nicely put together. Can you explain why it was only affecting the front left corner and not all of them when the fault was in the master cylinder.
Thank you. I will be 100% honest, I never even checked the passenger side. Once I diagnosed that MC and booster from the driver side I didn't even look at the other side. My assumption is that it was causing the passenger side to stick, the customer just never noticed it
Happened to me and the problem was because the oring from the power steering pump hose that was installed incorrectly came apart and stuck into the line that goes to that wheel. Didn’t replace anything except for the piston ring it tore up… drained the booster… and and put it all back together. That was 2014. Still works perfectly.
I thought it might be because the front-left caliper has the shortest route to the master cylinder, so the problem presented itself there first. You'd think the customer would have mentioned that they keep having to add brake fluid!
What a great video! I've been battling the same thing and did the exact shade tree mechanic brake work the Silverado owner did. Finally took it to the garage and they diagnosed the booster and master cylinder. I hope this fixes the problem.
2006 Durmax , you made it well said and gave many diagnosis tips for me to try I will keep ya informed as I find the problem.The only trouble is I have zero interest in the boster due that its hard and im lazy..LOL Depending on the amount of brake fluid in booster, I may have an option to suction it out. I do understand the risk . Your great thanks.MJ 1:14 Update: after many hours and help from a local mechanic, we diagnose the exact problem for my truck. It was the ABS sensor going out. It kept it from going a particular amount of revolutions, and it was hard to find He had to use a multi meter and look at the factory specs after that no more problems I was so happy. Just wanted to share with the group.
I have same exact Truck as in the video, 279K miles. I had the dredded master cylinder leaking into the booster, so i decided while im replacing those let me go ahead and do new brake hoses, new pads, new calipers as well. Had perfectly fine working brakes before changing everything other than having to drain my brake booster and add fluid. once finished and wrapped up and bled the system. drove it around the block a few times, was fine, pedal felt squishy so i bled the brakes again, and then checked and they were better. Next day go to drive and make it a few miles from home and front end locks up and wont release. I've gone thru and double checked everything to make sure i didn't miss anything. I did the test that you did and when wheel is locked up i can crack the bleeder screw and it frees up the wheel. which then leads me back up the line to the Master Cylinder or ABS Pump ( i did have a couple of ABS wheel Speed Sensor Codes that i cleared) but still locks up even after clearing the codes. Could a brand new master cylinder malfunction from the get go of not allowing the pressure to go backwards? Is there a way to test the Master Cylinder? I have a decent pedal and it returns up when not running, with it running it also has a good pedal, After a few minutes of driving the pedal will start to act really strange where it'll feel squishy but will apply the brakes and the next time you press it it will get pretty stiff then at some point the pedal will be stiff right as you touch it and without being on the gas pedal the truck will stop on its own. Any Clue what it could possibly be? thanks for the assistance loved the video
Let me try and answer all your questions, yes, new parts can be bad, does it happen in regards to master cylinders often, not really. To test the master, remove the lines from the master and plug them with pipe plugs, if the the master is good, the pedal will be hard as a rock. Did replace the brake booster when you did the master? If not, it is still bad if it had fluid sitting in it, brake fluid will degrade the rubber diaphragm. If you did replace it, we have further diagnosis. It is possible that the ABS module/EBCM is failing
@@robschwiesow yes i did replace the booster at same time as the master cylinder due to it having fluid in it for well over a year i would bet. I went to test drive it today to the point of it locking up and the motor having to push thru the brakes, got home jacked it up and wheel was locked. So i undid the master from the booster about 1/16" or so and that freed the wheel up. So i've diagnosed it to be the booster rod is holding the master cylinder slightly opened. After that i went into the truck and undid the brake pedal and unscrewed it (lefty loosey) 2 full turns and put it all back together then went for a test drive a little longer than before and brakes feel good wasnt having any issues with them locking up or dragging feeling. Questing is: does that adjustment to the inside rod run all the way thru the booster to the outside or does the outside rod that pushes on the master not get affected by the inside adjustment? I'll test some more tomorrow.
Once the slave cyl in my dads truck locked up the brakes because of cold weather and we removed from truck and manually pushed the rod and got out the clog and put it back on and it worked good
Just had the same thing happen. I think the master cylinder was going bad for over a year. Truck felt like it was kinda down on power but didn't feel like brakes were sticking hard. Then a couple weeks ago the driver side was sticking to the point the truck would hold itself on a hill without brakes applied. Replaced caliper and both front brake hoses with stainless lines. Seemed to have fixed it but then a week later the passenger side started sticking. Relieved brake booster pressure and it still held. Only thing left was the master cylinder. Replaced it yesterday and the truck brakes fine and feels like it has a ton more power and gets up to speed with a lot less effort. I'd say first signs of failure is the truck feeling like it's not as fast when getting up to speed.
Man just the video I was looking for. I'm having a similar issues on my 97' and I said to myself ok well the brake lines ( rubber sections are original on a 30 year old truck for good measure let's replace them ) did that, then both front caliper, bled the system of to have good clean fluid and still the left front drags. Now I bought reman calipers so I said well let's warranty out the left front once and see. Was good for a little while then right back to periodically dragging. Tomorrow I will pull my master away and take a peek back there. Only reason I didn't because this master was replaced not long ago and this booster was replaced twice for what reason I don't know previous owner worked at gmc dealership with me did it and yeah thanks for this video I needed some outside the box thinking there and I should know just cause it's new don't mean it's good. Great job and thanks I smashed that like and subscribe. Nice to come arcoss techs that know what they are doing. You never can know it all and as long as the mindset is held you will always learn new things.
Its a good video remembering the diagnostic part is what i have problems with....as im not an everyday tech it sounds from this that i have a plugged brake line so i ordered both and ill get the calipers too....i replaced them about 10 yrs ago when the brakes overheated now its happening again 2001 DODGE RAM CARGO VAN IS WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT....IT NEEDS ROTORS TOO
Maybe I missed it but it wasn't very clear on how you determined the master cylinder was also faulty and needing replaced. I'm at that point with a limited window to order parts and am unsure if I need to do both booster and MC or just booster. Edit: great video though, man. Thanks a million for putting it out there for us. 2nd edit: my bad I am one of those bums that comments before finishing the entire video, where at the end, he recaps and answers my unnecessary question. Sorry yall... I'm slightly ashamed of myself... but thanks again man. Solid content!
With that much fluid in the booster the customer must have been adding quite a bit to keep the fluid level up. That should have been the first red flag for them.
I am just now about to give up on my 08 gmc sierra changed new calipers twice new rotors new brake lines new master cylinder because when I was bleeding I wasn't getting much pressure and pedal kept going to the floor so I replaced it also leaking at the seal so I can't get my driver caliper to stop locking up not as bad as yours but i am now ordering my vaccum booster thanks to your video I am doing this as my last resort before I take back to my mechanic god 🙌 bless
Would a sticking brake caliper cause a loud grinding noise coming from the front of the truck? I have an '02 silverado RWD. I recently replaced all four ball joints, sway bar bushings, end links, coil spring insulators, and brake rotors. Brake pads have plenty of life left and no signs of uneven wear. When I pull out of my neighborhood just after first start, when I turn the truck to the right or to the left, there is a very loud grinding noise coming from the front of the truck that sounds like rocks in a tumbler. After driving for a few minutes the sound goes away. My ABS and Parking brake light come on and off intermittently. Could this be due to a sticking caliper? I've done everything I can to fix the issue for over a year and still haven't found the source.
I replaced the the brake booster on my 2003 yukon denali. It was leaking power steering fluid. I went on a test drive. After about 2 or 3 miles, the front brakes got smoke hot and locked up. The calipers bled down after about 50 minutes. I will check the calipers and brake lines to see if there is any blockage. I think that the master cylinder may be weak. My truck has 348,00 miles on it I have done normal brake work I have replaced the pads, rotors and hubs in the past. The master cylinder was replaced 150,000 miles.
The fluid in the booster was my problem. I rarely added brake fluid so I have no idea how it all got in there. I think it may have leaked for years and finally made its way to the other side of the booster diaphragm. Once on the other side of that diaphragm that is when the hanging brakes started. I could pull the vacuum hose and the brakes would release. Pull the master cylinder and look in that booster.
so I got my back brakes changes and rotors and calipers and front struts and now my front drivers side brake is catching the caliper or something is grinding replaced the front pads & still doing it, it didnt make the noise before I got the brakes done in the back crazy now im hearing sounds in the front brake drivers side.
Question: I replaced my calipers, brake lines, bled the brakes, the master cylinder and rotors are 2 years old...the only thing I haven't replaced is the Brake Booster...my front wheels are always rubbing my rotors to the point where there's resistance for them to heat up after a short while of using the brakes...do you think that could be because of the Brake Booster??
Thanks for the video. My denali was doing the exact same thing & I replace brakes,rotors,cylinders &lines.. It was driving me nuts trying to figure this one out
It's my driver side rear drum building pressure after driving pedal gets tight .. My cousin had at one time adjusted the brake adjuster which had fell off
Have a 2006 Chevy Silverado. Customer had placed ATF in it because the brake fluid level was low and caused the front brakes to start dragging and overheat which made the abs sensors melt. They replaced the rotors, pads, calipers, front brake hoses, and front wheel speed sensors. The front rotors still dragged and they replaced the master cylinder and cleaned out the brake booster. They can no longer bleed the rear brakes even though the front ones do bleed. The front brakes still drag. I pulled the Master cylinder off the booster and no change. Cracked the bleeder screws on the new calipers and they still drag. Only way to free them up is by manually compressing the caliper piston. Do you have any idea of which direction to pursue? The master cylinder was bled properly. I bled it myself to try and bleed the rear.
Have one in the shop just like that one but the right front and the owner had replaced the master cylinder, lines and front brakes a couple of times. I found the booster full. Questioned the owner about it and he said that someone told him it would not cause any issues so he didn't change it. Well I did change it. And because he wanted the brakes done again we did that too. Oh and also found that the brake calipers were installed upsidedown (on the wrong side). It still doesn't free up like the left front or like I think it should. And no abs codes but it does read 3mph at each speed sensor even KOEO.
Seems odd it doesn't free up, brake hoses maybe? Normally that causes a fluid flow issue going to the caliper and not from the caliper. Did you bleed the ebcm with a scan tool?
@@robschwiesow I don't see how it effect only one side? I even checked the dump valves in the abs pump. I guess the pressure dhould be released equally between the calipers. The only part on the right that isn't been changed is the bearing, but empty it moves freely and no roar.
great video thank you I just changed my brake hose also I don't think that was the problem going to do what you just done can you have this problem for a while
If I am not losing any brake fluid, does that mean I don't have this problem? Had my right front caliper almost seize up, was driving down the road and when I braked, the truck pulled hard to the right and kept pulling even when I got off the brake. Pulled over and my rotor was smoking like crazy. Babied it home, I replaced all the front pads, rotors (they needed to be done anyway), and both brake calipers. I never lost fluid leading up to this. Now when I did my test drive after replacing everything, there is noticeably more heat coming from the right front brakes then the left front brakes. I don't have a temp gun to verify temps but it sure feels hotter on one side. 06 silverado 1500 w/ 235k miles. As far as I can tell, booster hasn't been replaced.
Have my 2 front brakes dragging the same. Calipers free, greased, slide. Flex lines changed. Fluid blown out and flushed. Master cylinder changed. Still dragging
Hey thanks for that video I have 2005 Chevy Silverado and I replace the same caliper twice already and I start thinking that the caliper it’s not the problem
Ive replaced everything 3times. Except the brake booster on my 2011 ram. Works a little while then starts hanging up again. Today they hung up again. I pulled the hose off the brake booster and air poored out the brakes released. Any idea why the air would be building up in there? Thanks.
Hello group yes American Heritage video helped tremendously with home brake repair 9n my 2005 GMC sierra. Exactly diagnosed, clip tips at cruise control mod, whole process start to finished. VERY helpful thanks soooo[ much guys. JH new m3xico
Good deal , brake system is a grey area for me. Like them fuel log looking thing that's down stream below the master cylinder... what does it do? If i build a buggy do I need one?
I have a 2005 Chevy suburban with exact same brake problem I put new brake pads and calipers. But In my suburban I have a Hydro boost i’m just wondering can you be the same problem
This keeps happening to me but its doing it on both sides iv already replace the calipers rotors and pads within a span of a year Iv replace the abs module master cylinder and about to change the lines as well because it’s not bleeding properly but i this point I think I might change the booster as well it sounds like its the issue on my truck
I’ve changed rotor’s calipers pads and lines. Then I watched your video took master cylinder off and sucked all the brake fluid out of brake booster it was half full. Put new master cylinder on and I’m still having the front brakes locking up and the pedal gets real stiff. I know I got a vacuum leak from carchoal canister issue could that or brake booster valve be the issue?
Have you seen this a lot on many GM vehicles ?? Am having that of which the Ds spins when on jack stands and in Neutral, the PS is stopped when free but when braking it rotates about 1/2 -3/4 of a turn then stops ….have new calipers, pads, and bled the brakes…..and still same issue… any info would be great
Dude, your F-ing Awesome!!! Thank you so much. I'm not going to go into detail on everything that I've replaced because this caliper would keep locking up on me as I would be driving down the road. I have an '06 Silverado 1500 that had the same exact issue and I would have not have figured it out if it wasn't for your video. So again, thank you!
Do you have an idea what originally made hime go in for check? Was it the abs light or was he having any clunking? I have an 03 suburban and am having these same issues just bought new calipers allready replaced swaybar links and inner outer rods. Also at one point it would make the awful howl like was coming from the break booster..
Jack the vehicle up and pump the brakes, right after, try and spin the wheels by hand. If you can't something is sticking. The customer told me he had a sticking wheel, he had already replaced the pads, rotors, lines and calipers and it still didn't fix his problem
Do ppl listen to ur vid or just watch it.. U said wat customer did at the begining and at the end? Just curious. It kinda funny but annoying at the same time. I have this issue too seems ppl listen until they reach a point that they think they know then quit listening always important to watch and listen til the end...i tell ppl this all the time i still get call back did u say this or that? Ugh..i got a lil patience..everyone has limits..tks
I have a pull to the right when braking ,i took off the left caliper and pressed the brakes with the pads out. The piston only protruded a quarter of the way out. No matter how many I stepped on the pedal the piston only moved about 3/4 off the caliper . I will try the drip test , but I am wondering if this could be the piston is rusted or possibly an ABS problem. Should that piston come all the way out if you keep pressing the pedal?
If you have a pull to the right when coming to a stop, that means your left brake is not operating properly if at all. It is a bad caliper. You should never press the brake pedal when the caliper and pads are not contacting the rotor. If it was working properly it would have blown the piston out of the caliper body, same goes for drum brakes.
Long story short, the fluid in the booster degrades the rubber diaphragm, which can cause the booster to get stuck in "boost" mode cause it to continue to apply force to the brakes
I'm having the same problem with my 05 GMC Yukon Denali XL 6.0 but it has a hydro booster what could the problem be I changed the hydro booster new and Master break cylinder new new caliper's and break hoses and rotors but the breaks lock up after a week.!! Please help.!!
when i park on a slight hill and stop then press hard on my brakes then let off the brake peddle off the brake holds on for 2 seconds before it lets go, i changed the calliper and hose but its still the same, can you help me diagnose it please? thank you
I have an 2009. Bad wheel bearings a few years back and went ahead and changed them out along with brakes and calipers and rotors etc. Had excessive heat on the front end still. So I took it to a mechanic shop. They retooled the rear drums replaced the brake lines said they were collapsed. Still excessive heat just had a friend of mine check a few things out he use to be a mechanic. Noticed i hangs up still just not a full on lock up just enough to create the extra heat. So I'm pretty sure my issue might be along the lines of what you just showed me. My question is what would a brake booster and master cylinder replacement and brake bleed service generally cost at a shop
I am having the same damn problem with my 2003 Chevy S10. I changed the brake pads calipers brake hoses and the master cylinder twice instill my front disc brakes get so damn hot. Did you ever figure out the problem?
Too bad no one has videos of whats wrong with these mid 2000,s Silverado after you change all brake components lines everything and booster and it still happens. ive found several things on Google about this problem with these trucks and no one seems to know how to fix it. the only thing i haven't changed is the hard lines so thats next i guess
Normally easy diagnosis. I replaced the caliper and i can't get fluid to go through the bleeder valve. There is fluid going to the caliper. What I think is weird, when the car is running. Fluid will come through. But, with the vehicle turned off fluid will come through the bleeder valve. Did I mention this is the 2nd brake caliper I have put on. In two days. Both new. And no fluid when pushing on the brake pedal.
Shouldn’t ALL the brakes have been overheating? I had the same trouble, but because I had just done front pads replacement, on two different days, I figured I had a stuck caliper on the second wheel, the drivers side, as the problem did not show up on the first. After taking the drivers side caliper back apart and checking it out, putting it back together, then driving again, only then did I realize ALL the brakes were heating up. I had squeezed the calipers with a c clamp. I think the old seals in the master cylinders then got screwed up.
I had the same problem with my 2007 Chevy Silverado 1500 classic. The master cylinder was leaking brake fluid into the booster. I replaced both the master cylinder and the booster, and now my front brake start dragging after the truck has been driven for a little while. Once it cools down, the brakes stop dragging.
Mine is hanging up both front calipers did replace all and just did master and fluid was in booster and didn't change booster still same hanging up even more . so booster can cause this because fluid leaked in ? I sucked out the fluid. Still locking up .
Long story short, if the seals break down, it can possibly cause the Master Cylinder piston not to return properly and can maintain pressure in the lines.
I have same problem but i already replace the booster and cilinder , i bleed the line but 3 lines is running oil good but and right side in the back is not , i disconect the line from the caliper and i pues the pedal and no oil coming out the line
In this situation can you dump the fluid out of the booster and put a new master on it? I would assume the worst case would be the diaphragm would be compromised from the brake fluid and wouldn't have power assist brakes?
@@robschwiesow thanks for the reply good sir. My dad just got a truck with the same symptoms and thr dude he got it from replaced the same stuff as the truck in this video.
It the booster and master cyl are new, and the problem Still exists it can get a little more complicated. It could possibly be an issue with the electronic brake control module.
Question I was bleeding the rear breaks and I dont see any break fluid coming out from the bleeder screw so I then opened the break line house and still didn’t see any break fluid so I went under the hood and on my abs module I found the rear break lines and I opened them up and I can see break Fluid coming out what can It be my break lines or can it be the abs going out.
If you removed the rubber brake hose from the caliper and there was no fluid, there is a good chance the rubber brake hose needs to be replaced. They go bad from the inside out most of the time.
Had this exact issue replaced master and booster , now I'm having a hell of a time getting a break pedal bake. Bench bled master before the install. Maybe air in the abs unit ?
Mine had the leaky MC and I replaced it but didn’t replace the booster. I just siphoned the fluid out and it worked fine so I didn’t worry about it. That’s been nearly a year ago and now believe my front calipers are locked up. I have no clue if a bad booster alone would cause this issue for me.
I have a question I have a 2015 Chevy suburban and just yesterday I smelled a burnt rubber smell in the passenger rear wheel do you know what that can be I check for leaks and didn’t see anything.
I have the same issue in a 05 suburban. I did everything the customer did and now I’m thinking it might be my master cylinder. I have a hydro boost system. I bled it all. Drained and replaced new fluid. I replaced the hydroboost, all pads, and calipers. Not once have I checked the master cylinder because I never saw any leaks.
I’m having the exact same issue and it’s been a nightmare to figure out I’ve done the same things replacing the brake line in the caliper only to have the same issue. My question is why would a bad master cylinder only effect one tire?
Please help. Got a 2006 Chevrolet but it’s got new pads, rotors, calipers, booster and master cylinder but the right driver side keeps locking up? What should we do??
First let me say, it is very hard to diagnose without the vehicle in front of me. 2nd, I would sat, remove the brake hoses from the calipers and make sure that brake fluid comes out at a steady flow, if not and they just drop slowly or not at all, replace the brake hose. If those check out ok, you may be dealing with an issues with your electronic brake control module
gracias tengo el mismo problema ya cambie discos balatas y caliper y sigue igual se calienta todo y el freno se ase asta arriba y se queda frenada tengo 05 gmc sierra 6.0 clasica ...gracias por compartir tu conocimiento
My left caliper and right is sticking I put a new brake line on and I've Replaced everything to the Master cylinder Hoses Calipers rotors But not the booster I even replaced the hubs on my2006 1500 Silverado disc drums But no light and scannersays it's fine But no fluid in brake booster the problem I'm having isn't low speed activating it's just starts dragging when Im not using the brakes going down the highway ive been trying to fix it for 6 months now It's Fine for several stops then the petals comes up I never had a problem til The brake line rusted now I can't get back to before help me please
@@robschwiesow That's what I'm think but if everything was fine before the one brake line rusted why would it go bad now I even bled the ABS module how come it don't have a light or showing up on the scanner..If it still had air in the lines would it make it start dragging going down the highway it will be fine and get up about 55 and it will start dragging I've put new master cylinder hoses 2 sets of Calipers 3 on the left side rotors new hubs I'm thinking ABS module can I take fuse out to check it? thank brother for any help I can get
great video I am having the same problem as well, do you think I should inspect the master first? also, my abs light comes on as soon as I hit a bump in the road any ideas? Again thank you for this video and I am now a subscriber.
Keep in mind brake hoses don’t always clog both ways. They can act as a “one-way” system where fluid goes into the line but not back out when the brake pedal is released.
So how do you fix that?
@@uphill248replace the brake line
This might be the solution! I’ve been battling a left front brake problem for quite awhile. Every time they replace the exact same parts that you just mentioned, but never the master cylinder. I didn’t think that a bad MC could affect only one wheel. Thanks for the video!
My thoughts exactly, how it affects only one wheel.
@@boydmerriman It doesn't. That single line off the MC goes back to the ABS module(or a block before the module) and splits off from there. His repair here in no way fixed ONE front caliper. Either the hose is rotten internally on that side or the there's an ABS issue.
They probably knew about buster, but they wanna you come back
Same here
The guy stated they already replaced the line ? So how is the new line collapsed ? Think about it.
You are an excellent teacher. I am about to replace my 3 caliper on my truck and now I know that I need to possibly look a little deeper at the situation. Thank you!
Thank you my friend! I hope you get it fixed up!
Very detailed video. Guys like me need EVERYTHING explained in slow mo. lol Great video! Solved my problem on my Dodge Challenger!
I have this same problem on an 06 Tahoe and I have had a new brake booster. New master cylinder, new brake calipers, new brake hose.
Hey brother, it is the pushrod from your booster needing to be adjusted to your new master cylinder. The pushrod has a nut which can be tightened or loosened to shorten or lengthen the distance to the master cylinders piston. If a brake booster pushrod is too far forward (too "long") it will cause the master cylinder to have preload. This is your case.
Preload on the master cylinder will cause the internal piston to never fully retract and release internal pressure causing your exact problem.
In normal operation the piston will close the vent to the brake fluid reservoir as soon as any force is applied thus allowing pressure to build so the caliper can function properly. When the brake pedal is released and the piston retracts fully, only then will the valve be open allowing fluid and pressure to be released from the calipers.
A brake booster push rod adjustment tool will help set the proper length of the push rod.
Hope this helps, ask me how i became an expert !
Thank you so much for this video. I had a caliper lock up on me, got it replaced and the system was still holding pressure. You saved me a great deal of time and money. I really appreciate you putting this out.
No problem man, thank you for the feedback and support!
Same problem here. Thank you so much !
I have a 98 Silverado and I’m having the same issue. I replaced calipers twice thinking I had bad calipers. After watching this I believe it’s my hose. That means the original calipers probably weren’t even bad lol. Either way i learned something.
It's interesting that only one wheel was getting effected. I thought anything to do with the master cylinder/ brake booster would at least effect two wheels. I learned something valuable from this video.
wow my truck was doing just this. i changed all the same stuff and when i seen your video my brake booster and brake master cylinder was leaking. so this video was very helpful. i really appreciate you thank you so much
Awesome man, glad I could help!!
Enjoy how you thoroughly explain what you are doing and WHY.
Thank you I really appreciate you walking me through some of the symptoms that I am having with my 2003 Yukon Denali brakes sticking. I replaced the brake calibers still sticking. Maybe it's my Brake Booster or Master cylinders.
That's great info on how to troubleshoot properly instead of throwing parts at a problem.
Thanks for watching my friend!
Wow im 5:02 in and i already gotta say thanks. Excellent way to rule out the caliper itself, by cracking the bleeder. Im currently beating my head against an 2007 and a half 2500 Duramax. Front pass. Caliper keeps sticking. Its so bad with a heavy load it completely destroys/crumbles the pistons in the caliper. Ive done caliper, rubber line, all associated hardware, twice now. New rotor the first time. No brake fluid is being lost anywhere... Ill check my master cylinder next and finish this video of course lol
Very helpful video. Now, I have to go check my truck out. Thought it might be the hose, but your video makes me think it is the master. A few test to figure it out. Thanks.
Very helpful. I had the exact same issue on the same side.. and unfortunately replaced all those same parts. Problem did not go away. thank you for the helpful information!
What did it end up being? I'm having the same problem. Replaced caliper, master cylinder and booster. Having the same issue.
@@andrewhutchinson5627 hey did you find a fix? Just replaced the booster and cylinder, still locking up
If it goes beyond the fix it the video, it very well could be the electronic brake control module
@@robschwiesow would engine vacuum cause the same to happen? I noticed when i would disconnect the MC from the booster, the brakes would release and would be fine for another trip around the block before the pedal gets hard and brakes lock up again
Well the way I see it is that yes the MC was defective and brake booster was toast for sure indeed however the brake locking up was not SOLVED by this fix because my MC is not leaking and booster is dry AF.
And my left front brake is still locking up after replacing ALL the same parts listed!
Thanks for the video, it's nicely put together.
Can you explain why it was only affecting the front left corner and not all of them when the fault was in the master cylinder.
Thank you. I will be 100% honest, I never even checked the passenger side. Once I diagnosed that MC and booster from the driver side I didn't even look at the other side. My assumption is that it was causing the passenger side to stick, the customer just never noticed it
Good job give me your address and phone number
Happened to me and the problem was because the oring from the power steering pump hose that was installed incorrectly came apart and stuck into the line that goes to that wheel. Didn’t replace anything except for the piston ring it tore up… drained the booster… and and put it all back together. That was 2014. Still works perfectly.
That's good info, thank you my friend!
I thought it might be because the front-left caliper has the shortest route to the master cylinder, so the problem presented itself there first. You'd think the customer would have mentioned that they keep having to add brake fluid!
What a great video! I've been battling the same thing and did the exact shade tree mechanic brake work the Silverado owner did. Finally took it to the garage and they diagnosed the booster and master cylinder. I hope this fixes the problem.
2006 Durmax , you made it well said and gave many diagnosis tips for me to try I will keep ya informed as I find the problem.The only trouble is I have zero interest in the boster due that its hard and im lazy..LOL Depending on the amount of brake fluid in booster, I may have an option to suction it out. I do understand the risk . Your great thanks.MJ 1:14
Update: after many hours and help from a local mechanic, we diagnose the exact problem for my truck. It was the ABS sensor going out. It kept it from going a particular amount of revolutions, and it was hard to find
He had to use a multi meter and look at the factory specs after that no more problems I was so happy. Just wanted to share with the group.
Siphon out. Booster is fine
I have same exact Truck as in the video, 279K miles. I had the dredded master cylinder leaking into the booster, so i decided while im replacing those let me go ahead and do new brake hoses, new pads, new calipers as well. Had perfectly fine working brakes before changing everything other than having to drain my brake booster and add fluid.
once finished and wrapped up and bled the system. drove it around the block a few times, was fine, pedal felt squishy so i bled the brakes again, and then checked and they were better. Next day go to drive and make it a few miles from home and front end locks up and wont release. I've gone thru and double checked everything to make sure i didn't miss anything. I did the test that you did and when wheel is locked up i can crack the bleeder screw and it frees up the wheel. which then leads me back up the line to the Master Cylinder or ABS Pump ( i did have a couple of ABS wheel Speed Sensor Codes that i cleared) but still locks up even after clearing the codes. Could a brand new master cylinder malfunction from the get go of not allowing the pressure to go backwards? Is there a way to test the Master Cylinder? I have a decent pedal and it returns up when not running, with it running it also has a good pedal, After a few minutes of driving the pedal will start to act really strange where it'll feel squishy but will apply the brakes and the next time you press it it will get pretty stiff then at some point the pedal will be stiff right as you touch it and without being on the gas pedal the truck will stop on its own.
Any Clue what it could possibly be? thanks for the assistance loved the video
Let me try and answer all your questions, yes, new parts can be bad, does it happen in regards to master cylinders often, not really. To test the master, remove the lines from the master and plug them with pipe plugs, if the the master is good, the pedal will be hard as a rock. Did replace the brake booster when you did the master? If not, it is still bad if it had fluid sitting in it, brake fluid will degrade the rubber diaphragm. If you did replace it, we have further diagnosis. It is possible that the ABS module/EBCM is failing
@@robschwiesow yes i did replace the booster at same time as the master cylinder due to it having fluid in it for well over a year i would bet.
I went to test drive it today to the point of it locking up and the motor having to push thru the brakes, got home jacked it up and wheel was locked. So i undid the master from the booster about 1/16" or so and that freed the wheel up. So i've diagnosed it to be the booster rod is holding the master cylinder slightly opened. After that i went into the truck and undid the brake pedal and unscrewed it (lefty loosey) 2 full turns and put it all back together then went for a test drive a little longer than before and brakes feel good wasnt having any issues with them locking up or dragging feeling.
Questing is: does that adjustment to the inside rod run all the way thru the booster to the outside or does the outside rod that pushes on the master not get affected by the inside adjustment?
I'll test some more tomorrow.
Once the slave cyl in my dads truck locked up the brakes because of cold weather and we removed from truck and manually pushed the rod and got out the clog and put it back on and it worked good
Just had the same thing happen. I think the master cylinder was going bad for over a year. Truck felt like it was kinda down on power but didn't feel like brakes were sticking hard. Then a couple weeks ago the driver side was sticking to the point the truck would hold itself on a hill without brakes applied. Replaced caliper and both front brake hoses with stainless lines. Seemed to have fixed it but then a week later the passenger side started sticking. Relieved brake booster pressure and it still held. Only thing left was the master cylinder. Replaced it yesterday and the truck brakes fine and feels like it has a ton more power and gets up to speed with a lot less effort. I'd say first signs of failure is the truck feeling like it's not as fast when getting up to speed.
Man just the video I was looking for. I'm having a similar issues on my 97' and I said to myself ok well the brake lines ( rubber sections are original on a 30 year old truck for good measure let's replace them ) did that, then both front caliper, bled the system of to have good clean fluid and still the left front drags. Now I bought reman calipers so I said well let's warranty out the left front once and see. Was good for a little while then right back to periodically dragging. Tomorrow I will pull my master away and take a peek back there. Only reason I didn't because this master was replaced not long ago and this booster was replaced twice for what reason I don't know previous owner worked at gmc dealership with me did it and yeah thanks for this video I needed some outside the box thinking there and I should know just cause it's new don't mean it's good. Great job and thanks I smashed that like and subscribe. Nice to come arcoss techs that know what they are doing. You never can know it all and as long as the mindset is held you will always learn new things.
Its a good video remembering the diagnostic part is what i have problems with....as im not an everyday tech it sounds from this that i have a plugged brake line so i ordered both and ill get the calipers too....i replaced them about 10 yrs ago when the brakes overheated now its happening again 2001 DODGE RAM CARGO VAN IS WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT....IT NEEDS ROTORS TOO
Maybe I missed it but it wasn't very clear on how you determined the master cylinder was also faulty and needing replaced. I'm at that point with a limited window to order parts and am unsure if I need to do both booster and MC or just booster.
Edit: great video though, man. Thanks a million for putting it out there for us.
2nd edit: my bad I am one of those bums that comments before finishing the entire video, where at the end, he recaps and answers my unnecessary question. Sorry yall... I'm slightly ashamed of myself... but thanks again man. Solid content!
With that much fluid in the booster the customer must have been adding quite a bit to keep the fluid level up. That should have been the first red flag for them.
One would think!
😊😊😊😊
Over the course of 15 years. I could see how someone wouldn't notice. Especially if they bleed them each time they did maintenance
Very good explanation of everything - great video!
I am just now about to give up on my 08 gmc sierra changed new calipers twice new rotors new brake lines new master cylinder because when I was bleeding I wasn't getting much pressure and pedal kept going to the floor so I replaced it also leaking at the seal so I can't get my driver caliper to stop locking up not as bad as yours but i am now ordering my vaccum booster thanks to your video I am doing this as my last resort before I take back to my mechanic god 🙌 bless
Hope it works out for you! Thanks for the comment my friend
Would a sticking brake caliper cause a loud grinding noise coming from the front of the truck? I have an '02 silverado RWD. I recently replaced all four ball joints, sway bar bushings, end links, coil spring insulators, and brake rotors. Brake pads have plenty of life left and no signs of uneven wear. When I pull out of my neighborhood just after first start, when I turn the truck to the right or to the left, there is a very loud grinding noise coming from the front of the truck that sounds like rocks in a tumbler. After driving for a few minutes the sound goes away. My ABS and Parking brake light come on and off intermittently. Could this be due to a sticking caliper? I've done everything I can to fix the issue for over a year and still haven't found the source.
I did what you said but I've got still got a mushy break about a half a pedal what do I need to do next
Was there fluid in the brake booster?
Tank you for a video!
I have dgc 2008. I have 3 wheels seized. At ones. What it could be- calipers or buster? Thank you!
I replaced the the brake booster on my 2003 yukon denali. It was leaking power steering fluid. I went on a test drive. After about 2 or 3 miles, the front brakes got smoke hot and locked up. The calipers bled down after about 50 minutes. I will check the calipers and brake lines to see if there is any blockage. I think that the master cylinder may be weak. My truck has 348,00 miles on it I have done normal brake work I have replaced the pads, rotors and hubs in the past. The master cylinder was replaced 150,000 miles.
The fluid in the booster was my problem. I rarely added brake fluid so I have no idea how it all got in there. I think it may have leaked for years and finally made its way to the other side of the booster diaphragm. Once on the other side of that diaphragm that is when the hanging brakes started. I could pull the vacuum hose and the brakes would release. Pull the master cylinder and look in that booster.
Great video young man, you know your stuff.😊
so I got my back brakes changes and rotors and calipers and front struts and now my front drivers side brake is catching the caliper or something is grinding replaced the front pads & still doing it, it didnt make the noise before I got the brakes done in the back crazy now im hearing sounds in the front brake drivers side.
Question: I replaced my calipers, brake lines, bled the brakes, the master cylinder and rotors are 2 years old...the only thing I haven't replaced is the Brake Booster...my front wheels are always rubbing my rotors to the point where there's resistance for them to heat up after a short while of using the brakes...do you think that could be because of the Brake Booster??
Just did my calipers. Have a master cylinder ready to go. Hope I don’t need a booster... fingers crossed.
My avalanche 02 have the same issue, band new caliper. Thanks for your video
Thanks for the video. My denali was doing the exact same thing & I replace brakes,rotors,cylinders &lines.. It was driving me nuts trying to figure this one out
Glad it helped! I appreciate the comment!
It's my driver side rear drum building pressure after driving pedal gets tight ..
My cousin had at one time adjusted the brake adjuster which had fell off
Have a 2006 Chevy Silverado. Customer had placed ATF in it because the brake fluid level was low and caused the front brakes to start dragging and overheat which made the abs sensors melt. They replaced the rotors, pads, calipers, front brake hoses, and front wheel speed sensors. The front rotors still dragged and they replaced the master cylinder and cleaned out the brake booster.
They can no longer bleed the rear brakes even though the front ones do bleed. The front brakes still drag. I pulled the Master cylinder off the booster and no change. Cracked the bleeder screws on the new calipers and they still drag. Only way to free them up is by manually compressing the caliper piston.
Do you have any idea of which direction to pursue? The master cylinder was bled properly. I bled it myself to try and bleed the rear.
Have one in the shop just like that one but the right front and the owner had replaced the master cylinder, lines and front brakes a couple of times. I found the booster full. Questioned the owner about it and he said that someone told him it would not cause any issues so he didn't change it. Well I did change it. And because he wanted the brakes done again we did that too. Oh and also found that the brake calipers were installed upsidedown (on the wrong side). It still doesn't free up like the left front or like I think it should. And no abs codes but it does read 3mph at each speed sensor even KOEO.
Seems odd it doesn't free up, brake hoses maybe? Normally that causes a fluid flow issue going to the caliper and not from the caliper. Did you bleed the ebcm with a scan tool?
@@robschwiesow new hose and did the abs bleed twice
Huh, well I'm stumped without having it in front of me. Did you guys replace the stuck side caliper?
I guess you did, reread the 1st comment. Don't know, off chance it is a bad new caliper or master.
@@robschwiesow I don't see how it effect only one side? I even checked the dump valves in the abs pump. I guess the pressure dhould be released equally between the calipers. The only part on the right that isn't been changed is the bearing, but empty it moves freely and no roar.
great video thank you I just changed my brake hose also I don't think that was the problem going to do what you just done can you have this problem for a while
If I am not losing any brake fluid, does that mean I don't have this problem? Had my right front caliper almost seize up, was driving down the road and when I braked, the truck pulled hard to the right and kept pulling even when I got off the brake. Pulled over and my rotor was smoking like crazy. Babied it home, I replaced all the front pads, rotors (they needed to be done anyway), and both brake calipers. I never lost fluid leading up to this. Now when I did my test drive after replacing everything, there is noticeably more heat coming from the right front brakes then the left front brakes. I don't have a temp gun to verify temps but it sure feels hotter on one side. 06 silverado 1500 w/ 235k miles. As far as I can tell, booster hasn't been replaced.
Have my 2 front brakes dragging the same. Calipers free, greased, slide. Flex lines changed. Fluid blown out and flushed. Master cylinder changed. Still dragging
Hey thanks for that video I have 2005 Chevy Silverado and I replace the same caliper twice already and I start thinking that the caliper it’s not the problem
If the caliper lets go when you crack the bleeder loose, its the master cylinder! If so, check the booster too
Thanks
Quick my brakes calibers is dragging but my car is also driving sluggish ever since I did brake job
@@jorgetrigueros1820 mine had a bad brake hose. Took me few days to diagnose, but wasn't a hard fix.
What causes rim and lug nuts to get super hot and actually melt the plastiic covers for the rim lugnuts?
Ive replaced everything 3times. Except the brake booster on my 2011 ram. Works a little while then starts hanging up again. Today they hung up again. I pulled the hose off the brake booster and air poored out the brakes released. Any idea why the air would be building up in there? Thanks.
Hello group yes American Heritage video helped tremendously with home brake repair 9n my 2005 GMC sierra. Exactly diagnosed, clip tips at cruise control mod, whole process start to finished. VERY helpful thanks soooo[ much guys. JH new m3xico
Good deal , brake system is a grey area for me. Like them fuel log looking thing that's down stream below the master cylinder... what does it do? If i build a buggy do I need one?
What if you have your brake start holding without applying pressure? This is happening on a bike of mine and also a friends truck.
I have a 2005 Chevy suburban with exact same brake problem I put new brake pads and calipers. But In my suburban I have a Hydro boost i’m just wondering can you be the same problem
This keeps happening to me but its doing it on both sides iv already replace the calipers rotors and pads within a span of a year Iv replace the abs module master cylinder and about to change the lines as well because it’s not bleeding properly but i this point I think I might change the booster as well it sounds like its the issue on my truck
i have a 2003 Chevy suburban. the left front caliper is sticking but only sometime when i drive. abs light is on. any ideas on what it could be?
Possibly check the wheel bearing on the side it is sticking
I’ve changed rotor’s calipers pads and lines. Then I watched your video took master cylinder off and sucked all the brake fluid out of brake booster it was half full. Put new master cylinder on and I’m still having the front brakes locking up and the pedal gets real stiff. I know I got a vacuum leak from carchoal canister issue could that or brake booster valve be the issue?
Are you still having the issue?
Have you seen this a lot on many GM vehicles ?? Am having that of which the Ds spins when on jack stands and in Neutral, the PS is stopped when free but when braking it rotates about 1/2 -3/4 of a turn then stops ….have new calipers, pads, and bled the brakes…..and still same issue… any info would be great
Did the fluid in the booster render it inoperable? Assuming the fluid could be drained it seems like you could just put in a new master and seal?
Brake fluid is highly corrosive, it would most definitely ruin the rubber diaphragm inside of the brake booster!
I'm just curious as to how the bad master and booster caused only one brake to not work instead of affecting all of them?
Very informative video and well done. Getting ready to do some brake work and this knowledge is great! Thank you
Going to try this to see if it fixes my brake problem, thank you.
Dude, your F-ing Awesome!!! Thank you so much. I'm not going to go into detail on everything that I've replaced because this caliper would keep locking up on me as I would be driving down the road. I have an '06 Silverado 1500 that had the same exact issue and I would have not have figured it out if it wasn't for your video. So again, thank you!
Do you have an idea what originally made hime go in for check? Was it the abs light or was he having any clunking? I have an 03 suburban and am having these same issues just bought new calipers allready replaced swaybar links and inner outer rods. Also at one point it would make the awful howl like was coming from the break booster..
Jack the vehicle up and pump the brakes, right after, try and spin the wheels by hand. If you can't something is sticking. The customer told me he had a sticking wheel, he had already replaced the pads, rotors, lines and calipers and it still didn't fix his problem
Do ppl listen to ur vid or just watch it.. U said wat customer did at the begining and at the end? Just curious. It kinda funny but annoying at the same time. I have this issue too seems ppl listen until they reach a point that they think they know then quit listening always important to watch and listen til the end...i tell ppl this all the time i still get call back did u say this or that? Ugh..i got a lil patience..everyone has limits..tks
Great video, thanks for the knowledge and time spent on providing this video. Blessings
FIRST VIDEO IV SEEN. LIKE THIS GOOD JOB. WELL EXPLAINED
Thank you!
I have a pull to the right when braking ,i took off the left caliper and pressed the brakes with the pads out. The piston only protruded a quarter of the way out. No matter how many I stepped on the pedal the piston only moved about 3/4 off the caliper . I will try the drip test , but I am wondering if this could be the piston is rusted or possibly an ABS problem. Should that piston come all the way out if you keep pressing the pedal?
If you have a pull to the right when coming to a stop, that means your left brake is not operating properly if at all. It is a bad caliper. You should never press the brake pedal when the caliper and pads are not contacting the rotor. If it was working properly it would have blown the piston out of the caliper body, same goes for drum brakes.
So can you explain just for me to understand. What is the booster doing to make it lock?
Long story short, the fluid in the booster degrades the rubber diaphragm, which can cause the booster to get stuck in "boost" mode cause it to continue to apply force to the brakes
I'm having the same problem with my 05 GMC Yukon Denali XL 6.0 but it has a hydro booster what could the problem be I changed the hydro booster new and Master break cylinder new new caliper's and break hoses and rotors but the breaks lock up after a week.!! Please help.!!
Why does only one brake grab ?
I’m having the same issue !
Thanks! Great video
when i park on a slight hill and stop then press hard on my brakes then let off the brake peddle off the brake holds on for 2 seconds before it lets go, i changed the calliper and hose but its still the same, can you help me diagnose it please? thank you
I have an 2009. Bad wheel bearings a few years back and went ahead and changed them out along with brakes and calipers and rotors etc. Had excessive heat on the front end still. So I took it to a mechanic shop. They retooled the rear drums replaced the brake lines said they were collapsed. Still excessive heat just had a friend of mine check a few things out he use to be a mechanic. Noticed i hangs up still just not a full on lock up just enough to create the extra heat. So I'm pretty sure my issue might be along the lines of what you just showed me. My question is what would a brake booster and master cylinder replacement and brake bleed service generally cost at a shop
I am having the same damn problem with my 2003 Chevy S10. I changed the brake pads calipers brake hoses and the master cylinder twice instill my front disc brakes get so damn hot. Did you ever figure out the problem?
Thank you for your great video it helped me to know how to remove a master cylinder
Ey buddy I have 2011 chevy silverado 2500 hd gas , and the all 4 calipers locked up ,do you have ideas what happened?
Too bad no one has videos of whats wrong with these mid 2000,s Silverado after you change all brake components lines everything and booster and it still happens. ive found several things on Google about this problem with these trucks and no one seems to know how to fix it. the only thing i haven't changed is the hard lines so thats next i guess
Normally easy diagnosis. I replaced the caliper and i can't get fluid to go through the bleeder valve. There is fluid going to the caliper. What I think is weird, when the car is running. Fluid will come through. But, with the vehicle turned off fluid will come through the bleeder valve. Did I mention this is the 2nd brake caliper I have put on. In two days. Both new. And no fluid when pushing on the brake pedal.
Shouldn’t ALL the brakes have been overheating?
I had the same trouble, but because I had just done front pads replacement, on two different days, I figured I had a stuck caliper on the second wheel, the drivers side, as the problem did not show up on the first. After taking the drivers side caliper back apart and checking it out, putting it back together, then driving again, only then did I realize ALL the brakes were heating up. I had squeezed the calipers with a c clamp. I think the old seals in the master cylinders then got screwed up.
I had the same problem with my 2007 Chevy Silverado 1500 classic. The master cylinder was leaking brake fluid into the booster. I replaced both the master cylinder and the booster, and now my front brake start dragging after the truck has been driven for a little while. Once it cools down, the brakes stop dragging.
Mine is hanging up both front calipers did replace all and just did master and fluid was in booster and didn't change booster still same hanging up even more . so booster can cause this because fluid leaked in ? I sucked out the fluid. Still locking up .
Was the booster now all is new works great
Awesome man! Glad you got it all fixed up!
But nothing would have kept pressure on the brake caliper? Can you explain how that leaking seal could keep pressure on the caliper?
Long story short, if the seals break down, it can possibly cause the Master Cylinder piston not to return properly and can maintain pressure in the lines.
Ima really liking the new intro. Great job...
Thanks my friend! I appreciate it!
I have same problem but i already replace the booster and cilinder , i bleed the line but 3 lines is running oil good but and right side in the back is not , i disconect the line from the caliper and i pues the pedal and no oil coming out the line
Aaa crap.. 👁 👄 👁 me after changing a couple of stuff on my 1500 , but not this. Thank you man!!
In this situation can you dump the fluid out of the booster and put a new master on it? I would assume the worst case would be the diaphragm would be compromised from the brake fluid and wouldn't have power assist brakes?
I agree, I would recommend replacing the booster due to the corrosive nature of brake fluid
@@robschwiesow thanks for the reply good sir. My dad just got a truck with the same symptoms and thr dude he got it from replaced the same stuff as the truck in this video.
It the booster and master cyl are new, and the problem Still exists it can get a little more complicated. It could possibly be an issue with the electronic brake control module.
Question
I was bleeding the rear breaks and I dont see any break fluid coming out from the bleeder screw so I then opened the break line house and still didn’t see any break fluid so I went under the hood and on my abs module I found the rear break lines and I opened them up and I can see break Fluid coming out what can It be my break lines or can it be the abs going out.
If you removed the rubber brake hose from the caliper and there was no fluid, there is a good chance the rubber brake hose needs to be replaced. They go bad from the inside out most of the time.
My brakes are constantly locking up, so it most likely is the booster?
Had this exact issue replaced master and booster , now I'm having a hell of a time getting a break pedal bake. Bench bled master before the install. Maybe air in the abs unit ?
Possibly, sometimes you need a scan tool to bleed the module
Mine had the leaky MC and I replaced it but didn’t replace the booster. I just siphoned the fluid out and it worked fine so I didn’t worry about it. That’s been nearly a year ago and now believe my front calipers are locked up. I have no clue if a bad booster alone would cause this issue for me.
I have a question I have a 2015 Chevy suburban and just yesterday I smelled a burnt rubber smell in the passenger rear wheel do you know what that can be I check for leaks and didn’t see anything.
I am honestly not 100% sure. Put the car in neutral and jack up the rear end and see if you have a brake locked up maybe
I have the same issue in a 05 suburban. I did everything the customer did and now I’m thinking it might be my master cylinder. I have a hydro boost system. I bled it all. Drained and replaced new fluid. I replaced the hydroboost, all pads, and calipers. Not once have I checked the master cylinder because I never saw any leaks.
Thanks for the comment! Might we worth unbolting the hydroboost unit and checking the booster, you shouldn't even have to disconnect the brake lines!
I’m having the exact same issue and it’s been a nightmare to figure out I’ve done the same things replacing the brake line in the caliper only to have the same issue. My question is why would a bad master cylinder only effect one tire?
When bleeding master cylinder, do both plugs have to bleed or only 1?
Please help. Got a 2006 Chevrolet but it’s got new pads, rotors, calipers, booster and master cylinder but the right driver side keeps locking up? What should we do??
First let me say, it is very hard to diagnose without the vehicle in front of me. 2nd, I would sat, remove the brake hoses from the calipers and make sure that brake fluid comes out at a steady flow, if not and they just drop slowly or not at all, replace the brake hose. If those check out ok, you may be dealing with an issues with your electronic brake control module
Thank you sir. This was extremely helpful.
Can you get a brighter flash light
Can't get the star bolt unscrewed on the driver side caliber to remove it from the rotor
Well done, from Tipperary, Ireland 😊
Will a bad abs sensor cause both front brakes to lock occasionally?
It potentially cause the abs to activate when it isn't supposed to
Thanks. Another place to look.
why didn't you measure the push rod to make sure the distance is correct before installing the new master cylinder?
gracias tengo el mismo problema ya cambie discos balatas y caliper y sigue igual se calienta todo y el freno se ase asta arriba y se queda frenada tengo 05 gmc sierra 6.0 clasica ...gracias por compartir tu conocimiento
Thank you so much now I no it’s the brake buster your show was great 🎉❤
My left caliper and right is sticking I put a new brake line on and I've Replaced everything to the Master cylinder Hoses Calipers rotors But not the booster I even replaced the hubs on my2006 1500 Silverado disc drums But no light and scannersays it's fine But no fluid in brake booster the problem I'm having isn't low speed activating it's just starts dragging when Im not using the brakes going down the highway ive been trying to fix it for 6 months now It's Fine for several stops then the petals comes up I never had a problem til The brake line rusted now I can't get back to before help me please
If the booster checks out good, it could be an issue with the electronic brake control module
@@robschwiesow That's what I'm think but if everything was fine before the one brake line rusted why would it go bad now I even bled the ABS module how come it don't have a light or showing up on the scanner..If it still had air in the lines would it make it start dragging going down the highway it will be fine and get up about 55 and it will start dragging I've put new master cylinder hoses 2 sets of Calipers 3 on the left side rotors new hubs I'm thinking ABS module can I take fuse out to check it? thank brother for any help I can get
great video I am having the same problem as well, do you think I should inspect the master first? also, my abs light comes on as soon as I hit a bump in the road any ideas? Again thank you for this video and I am now a subscriber.
I have a 2005 yukon the awd.. it happen the same.. i replace the brake caliber but dint fix the problem coult be the same thing??
It could be! Check the booster and see if there is fluid in there. If so, replace the booster and master cylinder
Thanks for anwering... this one have the hydrilic booster the one that is conected to the power steeling
You could still have an issue with the master cylinder.