2007 Chevy Silverado stuck front brake! Bad Caliper? Maybe not! How to diagnose it and fix it!
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- Опубліковано 29 жов 2020
- I've got a 2007 Chevy Silverado Classic in the shop with a stuck left front brake. I will show you how to diagnose it, and fix it!
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Keep in mind brake hoses don’t always clog both ways. They can act as a “one-way” system where fluid goes into the line but not back out when the brake pedal is released.
This might be the solution! I’ve been battling a left front brake problem for quite awhile. Every time they replace the exact same parts that you just mentioned, but never the master cylinder. I didn’t think that a bad MC could affect only one wheel. Thanks for the video!
My thoughts exactly, how it affects only one wheel.
@@boydmerriman It doesn't. That single line off the MC goes back to the ABS module(or a block before the module) and splits off from there. His repair here in no way fixed ONE front caliper. Either the hose is rotten internally on that side or the there's an ABS issue.
They probably knew about buster, but they wanna you come back
Same here
Very detailed video. Guys like me need EVERYTHING explained in slow mo. lol Great video! Solved my problem on my Dodge Challenger!
You are an excellent teacher. I am about to replace my 3 caliper on my truck and now I know that I need to possibly look a little deeper at the situation. Thank you!
Thank you my friend! I hope you get it fixed up!
It's interesting that only one wheel was getting effected. I thought anything to do with the master cylinder/ brake booster would at least effect two wheels. I learned something valuable from this video.
Enjoy how you thoroughly explain what you are doing and WHY.
Very helpful video. Now, I have to go check my truck out. Thought it might be the hose, but your video makes me think it is the master. A few test to figure it out. Thanks.
wow my truck was doing just this. i changed all the same stuff and when i seen your video my brake booster and brake master cylinder was leaking. so this video was very helpful. i really appreciate you thank you so much
Awesome man, glad I could help!!
Thank you I really appreciate you walking me through some of the symptoms that I am having with my 2003 Yukon Denali brakes sticking. I replaced the brake calibers still sticking. Maybe it's my Brake Booster or Master cylinders.
Thank you so much for this video. I had a caliper lock up on me, got it replaced and the system was still holding pressure. You saved me a great deal of time and money. I really appreciate you putting this out.
No problem man, thank you for the feedback and support!
Same problem here. Thank you so much !
I have a 98 Silverado and I’m having the same issue. I replaced calipers twice thinking I had bad calipers. After watching this I believe it’s my hose. That means the original calipers probably weren’t even bad lol. Either way i learned something.
Going to try this to see if it fixes my brake problem, thank you.
Very informative video and well done. Getting ready to do some brake work and this knowledge is great! Thank you
Wow im 5:02 in and i already gotta say thanks. Excellent way to rule out the caliper itself, by cracking the bleeder. Im currently beating my head against an 2007 and a half 2500 Duramax. Front pass. Caliper keeps sticking. Its so bad with a heavy load it completely destroys/crumbles the pistons in the caliper. Ive done caliper, rubber line, all associated hardware, twice now. New rotor the first time. No brake fluid is being lost anywhere... Ill check my master cylinder next and finish this video of course lol
Great video, thanks for the knowledge and time spent on providing this video. Blessings
I have a similar problem, thanks for information. Good job
Thanks for the video. You really know your stuff. 👍👍
That's great info on how to troubleshoot properly instead of throwing parts at a problem.
Thanks for watching my friend!
With that much fluid in the booster the customer must have been adding quite a bit to keep the fluid level up. That should have been the first red flag for them.
One would think!
😊😊😊😊
Over the course of 15 years. I could see how someone wouldn't notice. Especially if they bleed them each time they did maintenance
Once the slave cyl in my dads truck locked up the brakes because of cold weather and we removed from truck and manually pushed the rod and got out the clog and put it back on and it worked good
What a great video! I've been battling the same thing and did the exact shade tree mechanic brake work the Silverado owner did. Finally took it to the garage and they diagnosed the booster and master cylinder. I hope this fixes the problem.
Thanks for the video. My denali was doing the exact same thing & I replace brakes,rotors,cylinders &lines.. It was driving me nuts trying to figure this one out
Glad it helped! I appreciate the comment!
My avalanche 02 have the same issue, band new caliper. Thanks for your video
Great video young man, you know your stuff.😊
I have this same problem on an 06 Tahoe and I have had a new brake booster. New master cylinder, new brake calipers, new brake hose.
Hey brother, it is the pushrod from your booster needing to be adjusted to your new master cylinder. The pushrod has a nut which can be tightened or loosened to shorten or lengthen the distance to the master cylinders piston. If a brake booster pushrod is too far forward (too "long") it will cause the master cylinder to have preload. This is your case.
Preload on the master cylinder will cause the internal piston to never fully retract and release internal pressure causing your exact problem.
In normal operation the piston will close the vent to the brake fluid reservoir as soon as any force is applied thus allowing pressure to build so the caliper can function properly. When the brake pedal is released and the piston retracts fully, only then will the valve be open allowing fluid and pressure to be released from the calipers.
A brake booster push rod adjustment tool will help set the proper length of the push rod.
Hope this helps, ask me how i became an expert !
great video thank you I just changed my brake hose also I don't think that was the problem going to do what you just done can you have this problem for a while
good information there, thanks for posting up
Hello group yes American Heritage video helped tremendously with home brake repair 9n my 2005 GMC sierra. Exactly diagnosed, clip tips at cruise control mod, whole process start to finished. VERY helpful thanks soooo[ much guys. JH new m3xico
Just did my calipers. Have a master cylinder ready to go. Hope I don’t need a booster... fingers crossed.
Very helpful. I had the exact same issue on the same side.. and unfortunately replaced all those same parts. Problem did not go away. thank you for the helpful information!
What did it end up being? I'm having the same problem. Replaced caliper, master cylinder and booster. Having the same issue.
@@andrewhutchinson5627 hey did you find a fix? Just replaced the booster and cylinder, still locking up
If it goes beyond the fix it the video, it very well could be the electronic brake control module
@@robschwiesow would engine vacuum cause the same to happen? I noticed when i would disconnect the MC from the booster, the brakes would release and would be fine for another trip around the block before the pedal gets hard and brakes lock up again
Well the way I see it is that yes the MC was defective and brake booster was toast for sure indeed however the brake locking up was not SOLVED by this fix because my MC is not leaking and booster is dry AF.
And my left front brake is still locking up after replacing ALL the same parts listed!
Thanx man! Very good video and instructions. Take care...
No problem man!
Ima really liking the new intro. Great job...
Thanks my friend! I appreciate it!
Loved your video very informative👍
You the best. Save me a lot of headaches.
FIRST VIDEO IV SEEN. LIKE THIS GOOD JOB. WELL EXPLAINED
Thank you!
2006 Durmax , you made it well said and gave many diagnosis tips for me to try I will keep ya informed as I find the problem.The only trouble is I have zero interest in the boster due that its hard and im lazy..LOL Depending on the amount of brake fluid in booster, I may have an option to suction it out. I do understand the risk . Your great thanks.MJ 1:14
Update: after many hours and help from a local mechanic, we diagnose the exact problem for my truck. It was the ABS sensor going out. It kept it from going a particular amount of revolutions, and it was hard to find
He had to use a multi meter and look at the factory specs after that no more problems I was so happy. Just wanted to share with the group.
Siphon out. Booster is fine
Thank you for your great video it helped me to know how to remove a master cylinder
I am just now about to give up on my 08 gmc sierra changed new calipers twice new rotors new brake lines new master cylinder because when I was bleeding I wasn't getting much pressure and pedal kept going to the floor so I replaced it also leaking at the seal so I can't get my driver caliper to stop locking up not as bad as yours but i am now ordering my vaccum booster thanks to your video I am doing this as my last resort before I take back to my mechanic god 🙌 bless
Hope it works out for you! Thanks for the comment my friend
Thanks for the video, it's nicely put together.
Can you explain why it was only affecting the front left corner and not all of them when the fault was in the master cylinder.
Thank you. I will be 100% honest, I never even checked the passenger side. Once I diagnosed that MC and booster from the driver side I didn't even look at the other side. My assumption is that it was causing the passenger side to stick, the customer just never noticed it
Good job give me your address and phone number
Happened to me and the problem was because the oring from the power steering pump hose that was installed incorrectly came apart and stuck into the line that goes to that wheel. Didn’t replace anything except for the piston ring it tore up… drained the booster… and and put it all back together. That was 2014. Still works perfectly.
That's good info, thank you my friend!
I thought it might be because the front-left caliper has the shortest route to the master cylinder, so the problem presented itself there first. You'd think the customer would have mentioned that they keep having to add brake fluid!
Maybe I missed it but it wasn't very clear on how you determined the master cylinder was also faulty and needing replaced. I'm at that point with a limited window to order parts and am unsure if I need to do both booster and MC or just booster.
Edit: great video though, man. Thanks a million for putting it out there for us.
2nd edit: my bad I am one of those bums that comments before finishing the entire video, where at the end, he recaps and answers my unnecessary question. Sorry yall... I'm slightly ashamed of myself... but thanks again man. Solid content!
Awesome video man!! Great help to me..
Thanks so much for this video. My caliper is locking up on driver front and I been losing fluid.
Well done, from Tipperary, Ireland 😊
Very informative!
Thank you so much now I no it’s the brake buster your show was great 🎉❤
great video I am having the same problem as well, do you think I should inspect the master first? also, my abs light comes on as soon as I hit a bump in the road any ideas? Again thank you for this video and I am now a subscriber.
Thanks for the video it's a live saver
Glad it helped my friend!
Thanks for the content.
Thank you so much. I have all 4 calipers sticking on a 99 silverado Z71. Did new calipers and pads. They worked for 200 miles. Booster and hardware time.
Glad I could help! Good luck, hope you get it fixed up!
Vary helpful thank you gor making vids keep doin ya thing brotha
Excellent video my bro.
Superb explanation
Thank You
I have same exact Truck as in the video, 279K miles. I had the dredded master cylinder leaking into the booster, so i decided while im replacing those let me go ahead and do new brake hoses, new pads, new calipers as well. Had perfectly fine working brakes before changing everything other than having to drain my brake booster and add fluid.
once finished and wrapped up and bled the system. drove it around the block a few times, was fine, pedal felt squishy so i bled the brakes again, and then checked and they were better. Next day go to drive and make it a few miles from home and front end locks up and wont release. I've gone thru and double checked everything to make sure i didn't miss anything. I did the test that you did and when wheel is locked up i can crack the bleeder screw and it frees up the wheel. which then leads me back up the line to the Master Cylinder or ABS Pump ( i did have a couple of ABS wheel Speed Sensor Codes that i cleared) but still locks up even after clearing the codes. Could a brand new master cylinder malfunction from the get go of not allowing the pressure to go backwards? Is there a way to test the Master Cylinder? I have a decent pedal and it returns up when not running, with it running it also has a good pedal, After a few minutes of driving the pedal will start to act really strange where it'll feel squishy but will apply the brakes and the next time you press it it will get pretty stiff then at some point the pedal will be stiff right as you touch it and without being on the gas pedal the truck will stop on its own.
Any Clue what it could possibly be? thanks for the assistance loved the video
Let me try and answer all your questions, yes, new parts can be bad, does it happen in regards to master cylinders often, not really. To test the master, remove the lines from the master and plug them with pipe plugs, if the the master is good, the pedal will be hard as a rock. Did replace the brake booster when you did the master? If not, it is still bad if it had fluid sitting in it, brake fluid will degrade the rubber diaphragm. If you did replace it, we have further diagnosis. It is possible that the ABS module/EBCM is failing
@@robschwiesow yes i did replace the booster at same time as the master cylinder due to it having fluid in it for well over a year i would bet.
I went to test drive it today to the point of it locking up and the motor having to push thru the brakes, got home jacked it up and wheel was locked. So i undid the master from the booster about 1/16" or so and that freed the wheel up. So i've diagnosed it to be the booster rod is holding the master cylinder slightly opened. After that i went into the truck and undid the brake pedal and unscrewed it (lefty loosey) 2 full turns and put it all back together then went for a test drive a little longer than before and brakes feel good wasnt having any issues with them locking up or dragging feeling.
Questing is: does that adjustment to the inside rod run all the way thru the booster to the outside or does the outside rod that pushes on the master not get affected by the inside adjustment?
I'll test some more tomorrow.
Tank you for a video!
I have dgc 2008. I have 3 wheels seized. At ones. What it could be- calipers or buster? Thank you!
It's my driver side rear drum building pressure after driving pedal gets tight ..
My cousin had at one time adjusted the brake adjuster which had fell off
gracias tengo el mismo problema ya cambie discos balatas y caliper y sigue igual se calienta todo y el freno se ase asta arriba y se queda frenada tengo 05 gmc sierra 6.0 clasica ...gracias por compartir tu conocimiento
Why does only one brake grab ?
I’m having the same issue !
Thanks! Great video
Thanks. Another place to look.
Hey thanks for that video I have 2005 Chevy Silverado and I replace the same caliper twice already and I start thinking that the caliper it’s not the problem
If the caliper lets go when you crack the bleeder loose, its the master cylinder! If so, check the booster too
Thanks
Quick my brakes calibers is dragging but my car is also driving sluggish ever since I did brake job
@@jorgetrigueros1820 mine had a bad brake hose. Took me few days to diagnose, but wasn't a hard fix.
What causes rim and lug nuts to get super hot and actually melt the plastiic covers for the rim lugnuts?
Damn it man ..i did wat ur customer did its a chevy 2500 express .i going to ck that next ..i talked to several mechanics non told me wat u have ..i hope this fixes it sounds like it might. Same set up too ..i get back with u today to let u know if this fixes it..thank you for ur knowledge ..im a heating & cooling contractor 30yrs worth .i always got ppl calling me to help them fix their ac or service tech calling ..hey i always try to help. Wen i first started and even now i run into stuff where i call my mentor. So it only rt to pass the correct knowledge wen u can ..get back to u soon tks
Thanks for the comment! Hope it helps! Keep me posted!
Have you seen this a lot on many GM vehicles ?? Am having that of which the Ds spins when on jack stands and in Neutral, the PS is stopped when free but when braking it rotates about 1/2 -3/4 of a turn then stops ….have new calipers, pads, and bled the brakes…..and still same issue… any info would be great
Very good video
Have one in the shop just like that one but the right front and the owner had replaced the master cylinder, lines and front brakes a couple of times. I found the booster full. Questioned the owner about it and he said that someone told him it would not cause any issues so he didn't change it. Well I did change it. And because he wanted the brakes done again we did that too. Oh and also found that the brake calipers were installed upsidedown (on the wrong side). It still doesn't free up like the left front or like I think it should. And no abs codes but it does read 3mph at each speed sensor even KOEO.
Seems odd it doesn't free up, brake hoses maybe? Normally that causes a fluid flow issue going to the caliper and not from the caliper. Did you bleed the ebcm with a scan tool?
@@robschwiesow new hose and did the abs bleed twice
Huh, well I'm stumped without having it in front of me. Did you guys replace the stuck side caliper?
I guess you did, reread the 1st comment. Don't know, off chance it is a bad new caliper or master.
@@robschwiesow I don't see how it effect only one side? I even checked the dump valves in the abs pump. I guess the pressure dhould be released equally between the calipers. The only part on the right that isn't been changed is the bearing, but empty it moves freely and no roar.
Good deal , brake system is a grey area for me. Like them fuel log looking thing that's down stream below the master cylinder... what does it do? If i build a buggy do I need one?
I have a 2005 Chevy suburban with exact same brake problem I put new brake pads and calipers. But In my suburban I have a Hydro boost i’m just wondering can you be the same problem
I replaced the the brake booster on my 2003 yukon denali. It was leaking power steering fluid. I went on a test drive. After about 2 or 3 miles, the front brakes got smoke hot and locked up. The calipers bled down after about 50 minutes. I will check the calipers and brake lines to see if there is any blockage. I think that the master cylinder may be weak. My truck has 348,00 miles on it I have done normal brake work I have replaced the pads, rotors and hubs in the past. The master cylinder was replaced 150,000 miles.
Would a sticking brake caliper cause a loud grinding noise coming from the front of the truck? I have an '02 silverado RWD. I recently replaced all four ball joints, sway bar bushings, end links, coil spring insulators, and brake rotors. Brake pads have plenty of life left and no signs of uneven wear. When I pull out of my neighborhood just after first start, when I turn the truck to the right or to the left, there is a very loud grinding noise coming from the front of the truck that sounds like rocks in a tumbler. After driving for a few minutes the sound goes away. My ABS and Parking brake light come on and off intermittently. Could this be due to a sticking caliper? I've done everything I can to fix the issue for over a year and still haven't found the source.
Had this exact issue replaced master and booster , now I'm having a hell of a time getting a break pedal bake. Bench bled master before the install. Maybe air in the abs unit ?
Possibly, sometimes you need a scan tool to bleed the module
Have a 2006 Chevy Silverado. Customer had placed ATF in it because the brake fluid level was low and caused the front brakes to start dragging and overheat which made the abs sensors melt. They replaced the rotors, pads, calipers, front brake hoses, and front wheel speed sensors. The front rotors still dragged and they replaced the master cylinder and cleaned out the brake booster.
They can no longer bleed the rear brakes even though the front ones do bleed. The front brakes still drag. I pulled the Master cylinder off the booster and no change. Cracked the bleeder screws on the new calipers and they still drag. Only way to free them up is by manually compressing the caliper piston.
Do you have any idea of which direction to pursue? The master cylinder was bled properly. I bled it myself to try and bleed the rear.
Thanks for the great info 👍 I wish you were in Central Florida!!!😢
Thank you my friend! I don't know if I could deal with more humidity than what we have up here lol
@@robschwiesow Hello Yoda of the torque wrench. I have a head scratcher going on with my 2002 Chevy 1500 silverado. The front brakes were locked up so replaced the front calipers pads and rotors plus flex brake lines. Still had grabbing issues? So I replaced the ABS modulator and pump. Still left front grabbing??? Caliper released when open the bleeder so.... ? Wheel sensor? Sell the truck? That ABS modulator was a #%^^$#. To get on without a lift! Any thoughts?? 🤔
If the wheel releases when you crack the bleeder, it is a master cylinder issue, just like in the video. Make sure and check inside the booster for fluid when the master cylinder is off. If there is fluid in there, replace the booster as well, the brake fluid will have ruined it. Hope that helps, let me know the outcome!
I have an 2009. Bad wheel bearings a few years back and went ahead and changed them out along with brakes and calipers and rotors etc. Had excessive heat on the front end still. So I took it to a mechanic shop. They retooled the rear drums replaced the brake lines said they were collapsed. Still excessive heat just had a friend of mine check a few things out he use to be a mechanic. Noticed i hangs up still just not a full on lock up just enough to create the extra heat. So I'm pretty sure my issue might be along the lines of what you just showed me. My question is what would a brake booster and master cylinder replacement and brake bleed service generally cost at a shop
I am having the same damn problem with my 2003 Chevy S10. I changed the brake pads calipers brake hoses and the master cylinder twice instill my front disc brakes get so damn hot. Did you ever figure out the problem?
Really nice and helpful 👌👌👌💪💪💪
When bleeding master cylinder, do both plugs have to bleed or only 1?
New subscriber!!🔥🔥🔥
If I am not losing any brake fluid, does that mean I don't have this problem? Had my right front caliper almost seize up, was driving down the road and when I braked, the truck pulled hard to the right and kept pulling even when I got off the brake. Pulled over and my rotor was smoking like crazy. Babied it home, I replaced all the front pads, rotors (they needed to be done anyway), and both brake calipers. I never lost fluid leading up to this. Now when I did my test drive after replacing everything, there is noticeably more heat coming from the right front brakes then the left front brakes. I don't have a temp gun to verify temps but it sure feels hotter on one side. 06 silverado 1500 w/ 235k miles. As far as I can tell, booster hasn't been replaced.
On my 3rd caliper, thanks for the info
Aaa crap.. 👁 👄 👁 me after changing a couple of stuff on my 1500 , but not this. Thank you man!!
Have my 2 front brakes dragging the same. Calipers free, greased, slide. Flex lines changed. Fluid blown out and flushed. Master cylinder changed. Still dragging
Question: I replaced my calipers, brake lines, bled the brakes, the master cylinder and rotors are 2 years old...the only thing I haven't replaced is the Brake Booster...my front wheels are always rubbing my rotors to the point where there's resistance for them to heat up after a short while of using the brakes...do you think that could be because of the Brake Booster??
Great job
Thank you!
Do you have an idea what originally made hime go in for check? Was it the abs light or was he having any clunking? I have an 03 suburban and am having these same issues just bought new calipers allready replaced swaybar links and inner outer rods. Also at one point it would make the awful howl like was coming from the break booster..
Jack the vehicle up and pump the brakes, right after, try and spin the wheels by hand. If you can't something is sticking. The customer told me he had a sticking wheel, he had already replaced the pads, rotors, lines and calipers and it still didn't fix his problem
Do ppl listen to ur vid or just watch it.. U said wat customer did at the begining and at the end? Just curious. It kinda funny but annoying at the same time. I have this issue too seems ppl listen until they reach a point that they think they know then quit listening always important to watch and listen til the end...i tell ppl this all the time i still get call back did u say this or that? Ugh..i got a lil patience..everyone has limits..tks
Good work
Ive replaced everything 3times. Except the brake booster on my 2011 ram. Works a little while then starts hanging up again. Today they hung up again. I pulled the hose off the brake booster and air poored out the brakes released. Any idea why the air would be building up in there? Thanks.
Ey buddy I have 2011 chevy silverado 2500 hd gas , and the all 4 calipers locked up ,do you have ideas what happened?
I have a pull to the right when braking ,i took off the left caliper and pressed the brakes with the pads out. The piston only protruded a quarter of the way out. No matter how many I stepped on the pedal the piston only moved about 3/4 off the caliper . I will try the drip test , but I am wondering if this could be the piston is rusted or possibly an ABS problem. Should that piston come all the way out if you keep pressing the pedal?
If you have a pull to the right when coming to a stop, that means your left brake is not operating properly if at all. It is a bad caliper. You should never press the brake pedal when the caliper and pads are not contacting the rotor. If it was working properly it would have blown the piston out of the caliper body, same goes for drum brakes.
I have the same issue in a 05 suburban. I did everything the customer did and now I’m thinking it might be my master cylinder. I have a hydro boost system. I bled it all. Drained and replaced new fluid. I replaced the hydroboost, all pads, and calipers. Not once have I checked the master cylinder because I never saw any leaks.
Thanks for the comment! Might we worth unbolting the hydroboost unit and checking the booster, you shouldn't even have to disconnect the brake lines!
I’m having the exact same issue and it’s been a nightmare to figure out I’ve done the same things replacing the brake line in the caliper only to have the same issue. My question is why would a bad master cylinder only effect one tire?
so I got my back brakes changes and rotors and calipers and front struts and now my front drivers side brake is catching the caliper or something is grinding replaced the front pads & still doing it, it didnt make the noise before I got the brakes done in the back crazy now im hearing sounds in the front brake drivers side.
Excellent ! thanks
Good video sir
I'm just curious as to how the bad master and booster caused only one brake to not work instead of affecting all of them?
I’m having the same issues with my car and I’ve already replaced the Master Brake Cylinder now I’m going to change out the two from Calipers because I believe that they’re causing the brakes to lock up every once in a while causing my car to slow down. I would greatly appreciate any advice. Respectfully
I have the same problem on my Toyota. brakes tend to lock up. have replaced master cylinder and two calipers. problem continues to exist. perplexed.
Normally easy diagnosis. I replaced the caliper and i can't get fluid to go through the bleeder valve. There is fluid going to the caliper. What I think is weird, when the car is running. Fluid will come through. But, with the vehicle turned off fluid will come through the bleeder valve. Did I mention this is the 2nd brake caliper I have put on. In two days. Both new. And no fluid when pushing on the brake pedal.
So I'm having something similar with my front right brake. Replaced my front calipers because they were rusted out pretty bad & replaced rotors and pads because of wear. After starting to bleed off the calipers, i noticed the right caliper would not bleed off unless the truck was running. All 3 other tires would bleed off with the truck off, but the front right would not.... Unless the truck was running. I ordered the front 2 brake lines because I also know the lines can get ripped from the inside and not allow pressure to pass by. After driving it, i notice the temperature of the front right caliper to be the hottest of them all leading me to believe the caliper is sticking. Do you think booster and cylinder are suspect on this?
Was it?
Shouldn’t ALL the brakes have been overheating?
I had the same trouble, but because I had just done front pads replacement, on two different days, I figured I had a stuck caliper on the second wheel, the drivers side, as the problem did not show up on the first. After taking the drivers side caliper back apart and checking it out, putting it back together, then driving again, only then did I realize ALL the brakes were heating up. I had squeezed the calipers with a c clamp. I think the old seals in the master cylinders then got screwed up.
Mine had the leaky MC and I replaced it but didn’t replace the booster. I just siphoned the fluid out and it worked fine so I didn’t worry about it. That’s been nearly a year ago and now believe my front calipers are locked up. I have no clue if a bad booster alone would cause this issue for me.
that is so cool, AC test on wheel speed sensor!!!!!
Tip: If you put the cap on it, it won't leak near as bad while attaching the brake lines.
Did the fluid in the booster render it inoperable? Assuming the fluid could be drained it seems like you could just put in a new master and seal?
Brake fluid is highly corrosive, it would most definitely ruin the rubber diaphragm inside of the brake booster!
I did what you said but I've got still got a mushy break about a half a pedal what do I need to do next
Was there fluid in the brake booster?
What if you have your brake start holding without applying pressure? This is happening on a bike of mine and also a friends truck.