1 thing to keep in mind , at least for newer vehicles , sliding out the brake pads themselves is not easy as portayed in this video. The little bracket that holds the pads has a little tab that keeps the brake pads from sliding out. You can punch them out the opposite direction to remove them. You will have to remove the caliber bracket first tho. Did this on a 2015 Chevy Tahoe.
Yeah the little tabs on them got my dad and I confused. The tab is supposed to be out but we thought it was supposed to be bent in and the pad goes on it. We even snapped one off on “accident” and called it a day.
Pretty good video 1A Auto Parts has some nicely done "how to's" , I did find a better one for the 07-14 Chevy truck that was a little better than this one. Plus I was not getting rust in my eyes while watching the video, ha.
+Matt Lott We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Yeah the little tabs on them got my dad and I confused. The tab is supposed to be out but we thought it was supposed to be bent in and the pad goes on it. We even snapped one off on “accident” and called it a day.
+Richard Bethley Thanks for checking us out! That may be the sway bar link if you are referring to the black piece that is perpendicular to the control arm. Here is a link that shows this piece separate www.1aauto.com/chevrolet-gmc-cadillac-front-sway-bar-link-pair-general-motors-oem-gmsfk00004/i/gmsfk00004?f=939531&y=2007
I was watching this video to see which end the wear sensor should be on the inner pad... the one you took off is situated at the opposite end as the wear sensor on the new pad. Which end should the wear sensor be on driver/passenger sides?
Mine was the same, what I did was use a rounded metal bristle brush for a dremel with a liiiiiiitle bit of brakeklean to clean out the dust and debris from the bolt holes and I was finally able to tighten the bolt all the way.
+The Bowzer The correct video for the 2006 Chevy Silverado is linked below, however, you might be able to apply some of the basic steps shown in this video to your application. Hope this helps you out ua-cam.com/video/25_8oHz1LS8/v-deo.html
No kidding ! I am so glad I don't live up North and have to deal with all that rust. That truck looked like a 1946 truck model . I have 200K miles on my Tahoe and it does not look close to that.
Hey Jorge, yeah, our junk rusts up here, I'm in upstate New York. We just get over it... it doesn't make much sense to get crazy about it. It's just a fact of life.
You didn't spray the new brake pads off with brake cleaner. There could be dirt or debris on them or a chemical that's unknown and could be harmful to the rotor and effect braking. Always a good idea to spray them down as well. I do each brake job.
Typical of GM engineering to place two bolts side by side, one a 18mm and the other a 19mm! The 18mm is torqued to 140 ft lbs. Somebody beat up the 18mm bolt by putting the wrong socket on it! It took my acetylene torch to loosen up this beast! Then a trip to the hardware store for a new one @$5.29 per bolt. A breaker bar is useless in this scenario. Clean the 18mm bolt well and put an eye on it before you try to fight it.
For a Silverado 2013 work truck ! This video will not help you at all so it's probably safe to say you're on your own I mean the every thing is different then what the guy is say
Kind of worried about following this tutorial. You spray brake cleaner on rubber boot and also the rotor when you don’t need to do those things. Not to mention you torque down some bolts for the brakes when it just needs to be hand tightened. To each their own I suppose.
Aren’t you suppose to put in new brake hardware when installing new brake pads? Also if your caliper doesn’t have a rubber boot, shouldn’t you put one on? Smh
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I have learned so much and have gained confidence to do this myself,thank you for excellent instructions,,,very clear and understanding
Thanks!
1 thing to keep in mind , at least for newer vehicles , sliding out the brake pads themselves is not easy as portayed in this video. The little bracket that holds the pads has a little tab that keeps the brake pads from sliding out. You can punch them out the opposite direction to remove them. You will have to remove the caliber bracket first tho. Did this on a 2015 Chevy Tahoe.
Yeah the little tabs on them got my dad and I confused. The tab is supposed to be out but we thought it was supposed to be bent in and the pad goes on it. We even snapped one off on “accident” and called it a day.
Awesome video! I thought when removing caliper/bracket bolts you pull up and to tighten push down?
Pretty good video 1A Auto Parts has some nicely done "how to's" , I did find a better one for the 07-14 Chevy truck that was a little better than this one. Plus I was not getting rust in my eyes while watching the video, ha.
What is the torque wrench brand you use in your video? I looked on A1 Auto and they don't have it.
Thats where im stuck at now. 18mm caliper bracket bolts are stuck. Waiting on help to show up and get them out.
thank you for the video. is this the same process for an 07 tahoe?
+Matt Lott We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
You should always replace the clips on the brake slides. They should come with the new brake pads.
Yeah the little tabs on them got my dad and I confused. The tab is supposed to be out but we thought it was supposed to be bent in and the pad goes on it. We even snapped one off on “accident” and called it a day.
U don’t need to bleed the brakes when changing just the rotors and pads ?
What’s the name of the handle looking part behind the caliber at 2:42 ?
+Richard Bethley Thanks for checking us out! That may be the sway bar link if you are referring to the black piece that is perpendicular to the control arm. Here is a link that shows this piece separate www.1aauto.com/chevrolet-gmc-cadillac-front-sway-bar-link-pair-general-motors-oem-gmsfk00004/i/gmsfk00004?f=939531&y=2007
Do you have to change rotter everytime you change brake pads?
No, but if yours are bad already then yes.
I was watching this video to see which end the wear sensor should be on the inner pad... the one you took off is situated at the opposite end as the wear sensor on the new pad. Which end should the wear sensor be on driver/passenger sides?
How many foot pounds of torque carry the brake bolts on this truck?
excellent video ,as usual ,thank you.
Are the brakes vacuum or hydro boost ???
Don’t you need to open brake fluid reservoir?
I changed my breaks. But my brake caliper housing is still loose when I tightened the bolts. Is that common?
Mine was the same, what I did was use a rounded metal bristle brush for a dremel with a liiiiiiitle bit of brakeklean to clean out the dust and debris from the bolt holes and I was finally able to tighten the bolt all the way.
Same process for 2006 four wheel drive?
+The Bowzer The correct video for the 2006 Chevy Silverado is linked below, however, you might be able to apply some of the basic steps shown in this video to your application. Hope this helps you out
ua-cam.com/video/25_8oHz1LS8/v-deo.html
Lol did he really spray brake clean on the RUBBER boot 😂
Thank you
Holy mother of rust!
No kidding ! I am so glad I don't live up North and have to deal with all that rust. That truck looked like a 1946 truck model . I have 200K miles on my Tahoe and it does not look close to that.
@@JerryLeeMac thats whats called a 3 year old truck in canada depeing on region if lucky 5 years....
Hey Jorge, yeah, our junk rusts up here, I'm in upstate New York. We just get over it... it doesn't make much sense to get crazy about it. It's just a fact of life.
You didn't spray the new brake pads off with brake cleaner. There could be dirt or debris on them or a chemical that's unknown and could be harmful to the rotor and effect braking. Always a good idea to spray them down as well. I do each brake job.
Typical of GM engineering to place two bolts side by side, one a 18mm and the other a 19mm! The 18mm is torqued to 140 ft lbs. Somebody beat up the 18mm bolt by putting the wrong socket on it! It took my acetylene torch to loosen up this beast! Then a trip to the hardware store for a new one @$5.29 per bolt. A breaker bar is useless in this scenario. Clean the 18mm bolt well and put an eye on it before you try to fight it.
Nice guy, sad rusted truck.
Glad we don't put that crap on our roads down here!
+Thang Knowa Thanks for checking us out!
Probly because you dont have too
For a Silverado 2013 work truck ! This video will not help you at all so it's probably safe to say you're on your own I mean the every thing is different then what the guy is say
+aaron maxham Thanks for the feedback!
Kind of worried about following this tutorial. You spray brake cleaner on rubber boot and also the rotor when you don’t need to do those things. Not to mention you torque down some bolts for the brakes when it just needs to be hand tightened. To each their own I suppose.
+GETxS0ME Thanks for the feedback!
On the rubber boat I’m not sure, but on the rotor you are supposed to as they come with chemicals you need to get off.
Aren’t you suppose to put in new brake hardware when installing new brake pads? Also if your caliper doesn’t have a rubber boot, shouldn’t you put one on? Smh
Agreed , you should have put a rubber boot on that slide pin. And I usually use brake clean on the pads to make sure they are free of crud.
He didn’t even bleed the brakes 🤦🏽♂️
Not needed when replacing pads and rotors.