Hi there just wanted to thank you for this video. I was able to do the job in literally 30 minutes because of ur detailed explanations. However, I would like to add to this for your viewers. I was able to access the 8mm bolt easier thru the engine mounting plate. If you look there's a hole that aligns with the bolt. So I used the swivel simply pushed the wires down out of the way to unscrew bolt and then push the wires up and with their bracket i was able to hold them in place and out of the way. I didn't have to loosen the bracket for the transmission oil lines. As far as removing the sensor, with the left hand i used a mini pry screwdriver from harbor freight. I placed it under it and with the right hand wiggled the sensor and with left (prybar) pushed up slightly. Worked Like a charm! your the man bud!!! Thanks again!
How in the actual f*ck did you fit two hands in there?? I'm stuck at 2 fingers, barely that... Damn sensor won't come out for the life of it, and I'm sure when it does it'll be broken to bits and I'll have to fish out peices
It was really helpful. Working on my 2007 6.0. Never done a diesel before. But thanks to people like you I've learned how to do everything I need. Thank You! Very much!👍
I was the same way on my previous 2004 f250 . I didn't have a clue , luckily I was able to find a few mechanics that were helpful and figure the rest out . I could find zero information at the time it seemed. I'd wound up getting rid of my 04 and later found this 06 f350. I really love the truck and I'm quite fond of the 6.0 . It runs great and sounds good and will pull anything I need it to. The good thing is once you've been all in the 6.0 it won't be nothing the next time you have an issue . Thanks again for watching
Thanks for the great video - had no start issue and crank shaft sensor was the problem. Thankfully mine was just a poorly spliced pigtail so the sensor was OK. Couple notes for others - you can test the ohms of this sensor from the middle PCM plug by the drivers side battery. Removing the wire harness & ground worked great - and my truck is a manual so the transmission filter isn’t there which gives even more room. Thanks again!
I was able to get mine off by removing a bolt from the frame that held wiring in place, as well as a bracket that contains the VIN number. I was able to get the 8mm bolt straight in. Only three bolts were removed. I sprayed WD-40 in the area and worked the sensor around, easily. Eventually, I used a screwdriver to leverage the sensor out. Mind you, I could not see much of what I was doing, so I took my time and NEVER forced anything. I sprayed a lot of WD-40 in the area as well as some Simple Green to remove as much crap as I could. Also, I used some rags to clean up as much as possible, in an effort to not get anything in the sensor when putting it back in.
Thank you for the time and effort to post this. Good tutorial here... a few other great additional viewer comments too... its all good stuff... thanks again
Thanks for making this video. I am in the middle of replacing my main engine wire loom and was crapping my pants trying to figure out how to access this sensor. Not sure if I wanna replace this sensor too, while I’m in there.Thanks again brother!
Yep. I even put in a brand new glow plug harness and thought , ok I will grease these up so they won't stick like this again. A few months later went to remove them , because a few plugs fail . I almost broke the new harness because they were stuck so bad. I came to the conclusion anything plastic just sticks on these no matter what you do. Thank you for watching , and I appreciate the feedback.
Mines 2006 but I believe crank sensor location same , I know they moved other stuff around . You should just be able look below the ac compressor. There's not a lot of room but it can be done without removing the compressor. Hope this helps thanks for watching
if you unbolt engine mounts and jack up ...watching turbo... gives 2 more inches ..this helps mega and remove 8 mm bolt with the connector and put on connector on new one first then install 8mm bolt
I suspect my crankcase position sensor is leaking at the oring because my starter is wet. I'm hesitant on removing the sensor because I don't want to break it when I'm only replacing the oring. Any suggestions?
+Anthony Nguyen I would definitely not mess with it if it wasn't bad or I could confirm it was steadily leaking . Oil could be getting from the sensor to the starter however more likely that the valve cover may be leaking , or possibly the number 5 or 7 glow plug as they are closer . I'd probably start with taking the passenger plastic fender shroud out and getting a better look in there . Hope this helps and thanks for watching
Thank you for the feedback . It was a little nerve racking at the time best I remember . I was all but sure I was in for a lot work getting that thing out . But after many hours I prevailed . Thanks again for watching and I invite you to subscribe if you haven't .
2006 100k over last 2 years working outside on the ground, replaced icp sensor and the quick snap connection on the oil pump, upgraded oil stand tubes and dummy plugs, blue spring upgrade and a 53v ficm, added coolant filter, cleaned injectors with Sea Foam, and new oil cooler, new mishimoto radiator, bulletproof water pump new hoses, and egr delete, turbo tear down inspected replaced unison ring, all fluids @85000 did oil analysis and compression test with good results decided to keep the 6.0 and actually like it, scan gauge to keep eye on the heat when towing, So maybe i won't need $$$$ arp head studs and gasket DieselTechRon videos who passed away was a Big Help anyway thanks
You have done about everything you can and some fine work to your truck. I was lucky the replacement engine I got came with the arp head studs , I probably wouldn't have got them otherwise . But I had debated it like crazy . I think keeping a little maintenance goes a long way for sure . Thanks again
So I did all of this step for. I Didn't yank or tug excessively on any of the wiring. Mine even broke like yours, got it out with out any trouble. Put everything back together as I should. And now my truck won't even fire. Took it apart again just make sure everything was plugged all the way up as it should've been. I go to crank it and it does nothing but turn over. It won't fire like it wants to run at all. I was having troubles with it before I changed the sensor but it would atleast crank. Any idea what it could be? I'm at a loss of what to do.
I would be getting another crank sensor . If all wires connectors are good the crank sensor should work properly if not bad. Wish I could be more help and thank you for watching.
Did you ever get it solved, same thing happened to me it would turn on before not the starter tried but won’t turn on. Maybe I tugged too hard on the harness
+Andrew Townley I know what you mean but I must say it's my favorite toy, and the one I don't mind spending money on . But it's definitely always something , doesn't get too bad expensive as long as you can do it yourself and stay far as possible away from the dealership. I definitely wish I'd checked for all these stuck sensors, snapped bolts etc when the engine was out. I've had pretty good luck with mine lately and hopefully it stays that way a while . Thank you for watching
Be glad it’s not a BMW😜 I have a BMW750 li drive and I had to change the starter, damn hard job, so many things you have to remove before you can move pull it out while NOT being able to see half the damn bolts Thank you BMW engineers, over engineering to the highest details, bastards🥴🤨
Actually yea that was going to be part of my comment... the ol 7.3 Is so much easier... I left my truck overnight at a party once and one of the guys must have thought it would be hilarious to unplug the cps on me... lucky for them I had it diagnosed in the first 15 seconds of cranking no start no tach movement, oil pressure moved no tach, had spare sensors in the glovy but when I climbed down with the wrench it was just hanging unplugged... took me a second to find the humor but point is these 6.0s sure aren't that simple... thankfully we have people like this guy posting helpful videos.
I'd just installed this engine and was working the bugs out of it . As best I can remember I wasn't getting any symptoms yet , however I did have a code for the crank sensor . Once I replaced it the code never returned . So I can't say if a faulty one would always throw a code but it should . Thanks for watching
I have a 6.0 I've done everything this guy did and it still won't come off ..... I've even asked my friend who went to desiel mechanic school and he tried and he can't get it off what do I do to get this off ?????????
I will tell you that I know from taking out glow plug connectors and other stuff that these sensors glue their selves into the engine block ( from the heat) and they are no joke. As in this video I put so much force I broke mine and really all you can do is everything you can to get those pieces out . I finished digging mine out with the pick tool and got lucky on mine but there was literally nothing left of that sensor by the time I dug it out. I know the room is limited I'd even thought of drilling the center and tapping a big screw to pull it out. If there is any kind of extractor you can find to really dig into that thing and pull that would be of help. Of course let spray lubricant soak as much as possible . Because here's the same situation I was faced either the thing was coming out or I was going to be dissembling the front of that engine to knock it out from the inside . I would also note I spent a good 5 or 6 hours on and off digging it out , just trying to avoid the front of the engine removal. I wish I could give you more advice . I will also point out that greasing them with high temp grease or antiseize helps but it's no match for that heat . I've put in brand new glow plug connectors and less than month couldn't remove them without breaking them. Best of luck on it and wish I could be of more help and keep me posted on what you figure out because it could help someone else out .
@@s33therfan I'm having a really hard time undoing the bolt because some so called "mechanic" tightend the bolt down with a torque air wrench ... once I get that bolt off I'm golden
Yeah I'm trying to remember, I know there was no room for leverage so that could be a big problem , it may very well require lifting the engine some . Seems like there wasn't much and room and no way to make room best I remember. I know the next 6.0l engine I replace I will make sure and remove and grease every sensor and make absolute sure there will be no issues once it's in the truck. And yes it drives me crazy when someone puts a crazy amount of torque on a what should 80 inch pound bolt .
@@s33therfan I don't have a cherry picker/ engine lift to lift the engine would removing the radiator make any more room to remove the bolt possible ??
Probably not without removing the whole fan shroud , and that requires a special loan a tool from auto zone to remove the fan . To really clear up room needs the condenser and everything out of the way but then you lose freon if it has it . But you may have to wind up going that route . And in which case I'd take the front bumper and all, then you can get in there to anything and see what's going on. If you have a jack that will go high enough you could raise the engine some . I know that oil pan gasket replacement guys will have to raise the engine off the mounts to replace it . I know I was in a similar situation I'd just got the motor in and buttoned up , started pulling codes and found this and was kicking myself not replacing it prior. I've got a video somewhere on that engine removal that should show the steps on removing all the front and fan and fan shroud if you need to go that route .
mine broke off in block changing it yesterday. tryed to start it. crank no start. found a piece in the ipr and 2 pieces in oil pan. putting oil pan back on now
+Mikey Johnson I'm sorry to hear that , I know mine was a real pain took me several hours and I got lucky digging it out . If it made to the ipr it made it past the screen below the oil cooler too. I know I sure panicked when mine broke I also had to dig most all the glow plug harness out, those were horrible . I'm probably just going to keep an extra set of those from now on . Best of luck on it I know I had about 8 codes I had to clear on mine seems about time I got one thing fixed another would pop up but that's how you have to do it . Just one thing at a time . Thank you for watching
+Mikey Johnson I'm sorry to hear that , I know mine was a real pain took me several hours and I got lucky digging it out . If it made to the ipr it made it past the screen below the oil cooler too. I know I sure panicked when mine broke I also had to dig most all the glow plug harness out, those were horrible . I'm probably just going to keep an extra set of those from now on . Best of luck on it I know I had about 8 codes I had to clear on mine seems about time I got one thing fixed another would pop up but that's how you have to do it . Just one thing at a time . Thank you for watching
+Mikey Johnson have you got any codes , was it running before the crank sensor code came up to be changed . Could be high pressure oil problem . They have a fitting you can plug into where the ipr goes and pump it up with air to pin point leaks . The stand pipes dummy plugs if they haven't been updated not a bad idea to redo injector seals etc while you're in there . It's kind of hard to pin point some of those leaks but depending on what's been done it could need oil cooler and hpop seals replaced too . Hope you get it narrowed down and thanks again for watching
@@s33therfan if you see this I need to know my problems. It won’t crank at all and then after just sitting there and turning the key it will crank and start. No codes or check engine light
@@javencharles It sounds like a connection issue , possible starter issue and I do not know if it has anti theft but that could possibly be involved. Seems like its not wanting to recognize the transponder at first and then it recognizes it and cranks fine. I wish I could be more help and thank you for watching.
I got a question I work at Advance Auto Parts I'm brand new there So I get my parts at a discount. Some guy came in talking about his 6.0 and I told him my scenario and he told me it was this sensor. I ran my Codes check. Nothing propped up about the sensor. I bought one but haven't installed it yet. Let me tell you my scenario. Driving down the road on a freeway the low fuel turns on. Got off the freeway stop at a gas station. And filled it up with diesel. I've been asked this question by many of people. I am 99.9% sure it was diesel . Start up my truck No problem Drove about 2 milesAnd bam the truck just shut off. It is a 2005 Ford F250 super duty 6 .0 Approximate 250000 miles on it. Supposedly was well maintained by a company in Las Vegas by the name of diesel doctor. I change the feel filter beneathUnderneath the driver side. I also drained everything out of there and had some residue. Did not install the new filter yet I change the front filterAlso change the cap to a brand new one because it was hard to take off. I turn the key back-and-forth on and off on and off what I was trying to do was run diesel through without filters I put a Pan underneath the truck to capture all the diesel that came out to see if there was water in their approx. 3 gallons. Install the filters front and bottom And proceeded to prime the diesel according to the book turn on 8 times and shut it off that kind of stuff. I notice that my batteries was an 06 and a 05
So I put new batteries in platinum batteries because I didn't have much of a charge to turn my engine over Any ideas any Close. I bought me a high pressure oil pump but haven't installed it yet. Someone told me it was that to.. Any ideas would be helpful. I have a full tank of diesel I'm about To light it on fire. Thank you in advance for your help
The first thing I would want to check is the fuel pressure. There's another video I seen where a guy had proper fuel pressure but once under load he lost it . In other words he hooked the Guage up so he could drive and watch the pressure drop. That's my starting point seeing how your low fuel light is coming on. There are lots of reasons for a no start or stalling and people can tell you in good faith what was the cause of theirs but there is no substitute for testing . Buying parts can get real expensive in a hurry I know too well. It just has the lift pump there where the first filter is and going by what you've said checking the fuel pressure would be my start . I'd be interested to know what work had been done to the truck if much because there are a lot of other problem areas . Hope this can help .
By the way another thing I was thinking with yours being a 05 you should have the cast iron hpop . Those are good pumps and I'd least suspect it to be bad a first unlike the aluminum that discontinued 2004.5 I believe . Now what happens is the o rings or the stc fitting fails and people will replace a 1000 dollar pump. I'd want to rule out the other weak links like dummy plugs stand pipe o rings etc . Replace the o rings and screen on ipr. A lot of hot stalling is almost always a high pressure oil leak. I had one truck that would run perfect but once warmed up good stall and it turned out to be the o rings for the hpop.
Any updates please! Your sending unit in your fuel tank could be bad, mines has pieces of plastic stuck in the feeding tube, causing the engine to stall after 10-15min of normal driving!
Hi there just wanted to thank you for this video. I was able to do the job in literally 30 minutes because of ur detailed explanations. However, I would like to add to this for your viewers. I was able to access the 8mm bolt easier thru the engine mounting plate. If you look there's a hole that aligns with the bolt. So I used the swivel simply pushed the wires down out of the way to unscrew bolt and then push the wires up and with their bracket i was able to hold them in place and out of the way. I didn't have to loosen the bracket for the transmission oil lines. As far as removing the sensor, with the left hand i used a mini pry screwdriver from harbor freight. I placed it under it and with the right hand wiggled the sensor and with left (prybar) pushed up slightly. Worked Like a charm! your the man bud!!! Thanks again!
Thank you for watching
mines popped right out
(thank god) thanks yall
Thank you for the advice.
How in the actual f*ck did you fit two hands in there?? I'm stuck at 2 fingers, barely that...
Damn sensor won't come out for the life of it, and I'm sure when it does it'll be broken to bits and I'll have to fish out peices
You are way more calm than I would be.
Thank you for watching.
It was really helpful. Working on my 2007 6.0. Never done a diesel before. But thanks to people like you I've learned how to do everything I need. Thank You! Very much!👍
I was the same way on my previous 2004 f250 . I didn't have a clue , luckily I was able to find a few mechanics that were helpful and figure the rest out . I could find zero information at the time it seemed. I'd wound up getting rid of my 04 and later found this 06 f350. I really love the truck and I'm quite fond of the 6.0 . It runs great and sounds good and will pull anything I need it to. The good thing is once you've been all in the 6.0 it won't be nothing the next time you have an issue . Thanks again for watching
Chug 8 if oh
Thanks for the great video - had no start issue and crank shaft sensor was the problem. Thankfully mine was just a poorly spliced pigtail so the sensor was OK. Couple notes for others - you can test the ohms of this sensor from the middle PCM plug by the drivers side battery. Removing the wire harness & ground worked great - and my truck is a manual so the transmission filter isn’t there which gives even more room. Thanks again!
Very good information thank you for sharing sir , and thanks for checking out the video
I was able to get mine off by removing a bolt from the frame that held wiring in place, as well as a bracket that contains the VIN number.
I was able to get the 8mm bolt straight in. Only three bolts were removed.
I sprayed WD-40 in the area and worked the sensor around, easily. Eventually, I used a screwdriver to leverage the sensor out.
Mind you, I could not see much of what I was doing, so I took my time and NEVER forced anything.
I sprayed a lot of WD-40 in the area as well as some Simple Green to remove as much crap as I could. Also, I used some rags to clean up as much as possible, in an effort to not get anything in the sensor when putting it back in.
Thank you for the time and effort to post this. Good tutorial here... a few other great additional viewer comments too... its all good stuff... thanks again
Thank you very much for the great feedback.
Thanks for making this video. I am in the middle of replacing my main engine wire loom and was crapping my pants trying to figure out how to access this sensor. Not sure if I wanna replace this sensor too, while I’m in there.Thanks again brother!
Thank you very much for the great feedback and thanks for sharing.
Were you able to get it? Dealing with the same thing
Thank you for the video. I see that your luck is about the same as mine. My glow plugs were stuck as well so I expect my sensor will be as well.
Yep. I even put in a brand new glow plug harness and thought , ok I will grease these up so they won't stick like this again. A few months later went to remove them , because a few plugs fail . I almost broke the new harness because they were stuck so bad. I came to the conclusion anything plastic just sticks on these no matter what you do. Thank you for watching , and I appreciate the feedback.
AWESOME! Thanks so much for the video. It went just like you said. I'm SSOOOO glad that mine didn't break like yours. Thanks
You're welcome . Glad it went smoothly and thank you for watching
This is perfect thank you so much with all the necessary details and every thing, God bless you and your 350
Thank you very much for the kind words I appreciate the feedback. Thank you for watching
@@s33therfan
Thanks again, my dad and I installed the sensor, it was a huge pain but the truck its up and running again.
This is the best video I've seen on this
Thank you very much for the great feedback and thanks for watching
I couldn't find it until I watched your video, thank you.
Glad the video could help , thank you very much for watching.
Thanks for the video. I looked everywhere for position on 6.4 and couldn't find anything. It's in the same spot but is a little easier to get to.
Great video! Saved me a lot of time. Thanks!
Thank you for watching
You are a good man.
Thank you for the great feedback , it is truly appreciated .
thank you, I was very helpful, grateful
Thank you for watching and the kind words , it definitely was more of job than expected , and I hoped it would be a help to others . Thanks again
Great video thank you
Glad it was helpful , thank you
Was this on a 2004 f250 ? Trying to verify sensor location is same as mine, did you remove the compressor ?
Mines 2006 but I believe crank sensor location same , I know they moved other stuff around . You should just be able look below the ac compressor. There's not a lot of room but it can be done without removing the compressor. Hope this helps thanks for watching
Mine is an 03 I have a cam sensor in this location on his. My crank sensor is in the same place on the driver side.
if you unbolt engine mounts and jack up ...watching turbo... gives 2 more inches ..this helps mega and remove 8 mm bolt with the connector and put on connector on new one first then install 8mm bolt
Dose it always come up as a code on the code reader.
Not always , and sometimes they take forever to throw a code. Appreciate the feedback.
Nice video.
Does any one knows which way the cable from the sensor goes?
Thank You.
M.
Thank you!
I suspect my crankcase position sensor is leaking at the oring because my starter is wet.
I'm hesitant on removing the sensor because I don't want to break it when I'm only replacing the oring.
Any suggestions?
+Anthony Nguyen I would definitely not mess with it if it wasn't bad or I could confirm it was steadily leaking . Oil could be getting from the sensor to the starter however more likely that the valve cover may be leaking , or possibly the number 5 or 7 glow plug as they are closer . I'd probably start with taking the passenger plastic fender shroud out and getting a better look in there . Hope this helps and thanks for watching
I'll remove the wheel and fender shroud and take a look with a flashlight then go from there.
Thanks for the reply!
"Cheater bar" was that a standpipe sir? 🤣🤣🤣
Best comment .
I wish I could get the plastic out as easy as you did 😪
Yes , plastic loves to stick in these engines. The glow plug harness is horrible also. Thanks for the feedback.
good work
Thank you for the feedback . It was a little nerve racking at the time best I remember . I was all but sure I was in for a lot work getting that thing out . But after many hours I prevailed . Thanks again for watching and I invite you to subscribe if you haven't .
2006 100k over last 2 years working outside on the ground, replaced icp sensor and the quick snap connection on the oil pump, upgraded oil stand tubes and dummy plugs, blue spring upgrade and a 53v ficm, added coolant filter, cleaned injectors with Sea Foam, and new oil cooler, new mishimoto radiator, bulletproof water pump new hoses, and egr delete, turbo tear down inspected replaced unison ring, all fluids @85000 did oil analysis and compression test with good results decided to keep the 6.0 and actually like it, scan gauge to keep eye on the heat when towing, So maybe i won't need $$$$ arp head studs and gasket DieselTechRon videos who passed away was a Big Help anyway thanks
You have done about everything you can and some fine work to your truck. I was lucky the replacement engine I got came with the arp head studs , I probably wouldn't have got them otherwise . But I had debated it like crazy . I think keeping a little maintenance goes a long way for sure . Thanks again
If you have a van 6.0 it’s a cake walk
thank you for the feedback.
So I did all of this step for. I Didn't yank or tug excessively on any of the wiring. Mine even broke like yours, got it out with out any trouble. Put everything back together as I should. And now my truck won't even fire. Took it apart again just make sure everything was plugged all the way up as it should've been. I go to crank it and it does nothing but turn over. It won't fire like it wants to run at all. I was having troubles with it before I changed the sensor but it would atleast crank. Any idea what it could be? I'm at a loss of what to do.
I would be getting another crank sensor . If all wires connectors are good the crank sensor should work properly if not bad. Wish I could be more help and thank you for watching.
Did you ever get it solved, same thing happened to me it would turn on before not the starter tried but won’t turn on. Maybe I tugged too hard on the harness
Man, is there anything on these that isn't a bear? Thank God I have an old 87 Chevy 6.2 to fall back on.
+Andrew Townley I know what you mean but I must say it's my favorite toy, and the one I don't mind spending money on . But it's definitely always something , doesn't get too bad expensive as long as you can do it yourself and stay far as possible away from the dealership. I definitely wish I'd checked for all these stuck sensors, snapped bolts etc when the engine was out. I've had pretty good luck with mine lately and hopefully it stays that way a while . Thank you for watching
Be glad it’s not a BMW😜
I have a BMW750 li drive and I had to change the starter, damn hard job, so many things you have to remove before you can move pull it out while NOT being able to see half the damn bolts
Thank you BMW engineers, over engineering to the highest details, bastards🥴🤨
Actually yea that was going to be part of my comment... the ol 7.3 Is so much easier... I left my truck overnight at a party once and one of the guys must have thought it would be hilarious to unplug the cps on me... lucky for them I had it diagnosed in the first 15 seconds of cranking no start no tach movement, oil pressure moved no tach, had spare sensors in the glovy but when I climbed down with the wrench it was just hanging unplugged... took me a second to find the humor but point is these 6.0s sure aren't that simple... thankfully we have people like this guy posting helpful videos.
@@s33therfanyou really ain’t kidding when you said to stay away from dealerships, I learned that the hard way
Thanks man
Thank you for watching.
What were your truck symptoms if you don't mind my asking?
I'd just installed this engine and was working the bugs out of it . As best I can remember I wasn't getting any symptoms yet , however I did have a code for the crank sensor . Once I replaced it the code never returned . So I can't say if a faulty one would always throw a code but it should . Thanks for watching
Happened to me. It was easier to get the housing out than the clip part .
Thank you for the feedback.
I have a 6.0 I've done everything this guy did and it still won't come off ..... I've even asked my friend who went to desiel mechanic school and he tried and he can't get it off what do I do to get this off ?????????
I will tell you that I know from taking out glow plug connectors and other stuff that these sensors glue their selves into the engine block ( from the heat) and they are no joke. As in this video I put so much force I broke mine and really all you can do is everything you can to get those pieces out . I finished digging mine out with the pick tool and got lucky on mine but there was literally nothing left of that sensor by the time I dug it out. I know the room is limited I'd even thought of drilling the center and tapping a big screw to pull it out. If there is any kind of extractor you can find to really dig into that thing and pull that would be of help. Of course let spray lubricant soak as much as possible . Because here's the same situation I was faced either the thing was coming out or I was going to be dissembling the front of that engine to knock it out from the inside . I would also note I spent a good 5 or 6 hours on and off digging it out , just trying to avoid the front of the engine removal. I wish I could give you more advice . I will also point out that greasing them with high temp grease or antiseize helps but it's no match for that heat . I've put in brand new glow plug connectors and less than month couldn't remove them without breaking them. Best of luck on it and wish I could be of more help and keep me posted on what you figure out because it could help someone else out .
@@s33therfan I'm having a really hard time undoing the bolt because some so called "mechanic" tightend the bolt down with a torque air wrench ... once I get that bolt off I'm golden
Yeah I'm trying to remember, I know there was no room for leverage so that could be a big problem , it may very well require lifting the engine some . Seems like there wasn't much and room and no way to make room best I remember. I know the next 6.0l engine I replace I will make sure and remove and grease every sensor and make absolute sure there will be no issues once it's in the truck. And yes it drives me crazy when someone puts a crazy amount of torque on a what should 80 inch pound bolt .
@@s33therfan I don't have a cherry picker/ engine lift to lift the engine would removing the radiator make any more room to remove the bolt possible ??
Probably not without removing the whole fan shroud , and that requires a special loan a tool from auto zone to remove the fan . To really clear up room needs the condenser and everything out of the way but then you lose freon if it has it . But you may have to wind up going that route . And in which case I'd take the front bumper and all, then you can get in there to anything and see what's going on. If you have a jack that will go high enough you could raise the engine some . I know that oil pan gasket replacement guys will have to raise the engine off the mounts to replace it . I know I was in a similar situation I'd just got the motor in and buttoned up , started pulling codes and found this and was kicking myself not replacing it prior. I've got a video somewhere on that engine removal that should show the steps on removing all the front and fan and fan shroud if you need to go that route .
mine broke off in block changing it yesterday. tryed to start it. crank no start. found a piece in the ipr and 2 pieces in oil pan. putting oil pan back on now
+Mikey Johnson I'm sorry to hear that , I know mine was a real pain took me several hours and I got lucky digging it out . If it made to the ipr it made it past the screen below the oil cooler too. I know I sure panicked when mine broke I also had to dig most all the glow plug harness out, those were horrible . I'm probably just going to keep an extra set of those from now on . Best of luck on it I know I had about 8 codes I had to clear on mine seems about time I got one thing fixed another would pop up but that's how you have to do it . Just one thing at a time . Thank you for watching
+Mikey Johnson I'm sorry to hear that , I know mine was a real pain took me several hours and I got lucky digging it out . If it made to the ipr it made it past the screen below the oil cooler too. I know I sure panicked when mine broke I also had to dig most all the glow plug harness out, those were horrible . I'm probably just going to keep an extra set of those from now on . Best of luck on it I know I had about 8 codes I had to clear on mine seems about time I got one thing fixed another would pop up but that's how you have to do it . Just one thing at a time . Thank you for watching
still no luck after cam sensor. im gunna pop off my valve covers and run the truck and see what happens
+Mikey Johnson have you got any codes , was it running before the crank sensor code came up to be changed . Could be high pressure oil problem . They have a fitting you can plug into where the ipr goes and pump it up with air to pin point leaks . The stand pipes dummy plugs if they haven't been updated not a bad idea to redo injector seals etc while you're in there . It's kind of hard to pin point some of those leaks but depending on what's been done it could need oil cooler and hpop seals replaced too . Hope you get it narrowed down and thanks again for watching
@@s33therfan if you see this I need to know my problems. It won’t crank at all and then after just sitting there and turning the key it will crank and start. No codes or check engine light
@@javencharles It sounds like a connection issue , possible starter issue and I do not know if it has anti theft but that could possibly be involved. Seems like its not wanting to recognize the transponder at first and then it recognizes it and cranks fine. I wish I could be more help and thank you for watching.
Probably didn't have to change the sensor. If the wire was broke, that was likely the issue. Reconnect that wire and be good.
I got a question I work at Advance Auto Parts I'm brand new there So I get my parts at a discount.
Some guy came in talking about his 6.0 and I told him my scenario and he told me it was this sensor.
I ran my Codes check.
Nothing propped up about the sensor.
I bought one but haven't installed it yet.
Let me tell you my scenario.
Driving down the road on a freeway the low fuel turns on.
Got off the freeway stop at a gas station. And filled it up with diesel. I've been asked this question by many of people. I am 99.9% sure it was diesel .
Start up my truck No problem Drove about 2 milesAnd bam the truck just shut off.
It is a 2005 Ford F250 super duty 6 .0 Approximate 250000 miles on it.
Supposedly was well maintained by a company in Las Vegas by the name of diesel doctor.
I change the feel filter beneathUnderneath the driver side. I also drained everything out of there and had some residue. Did not install the new filter yet
I change the front filterAlso change the cap to a brand new one because it was hard to take off.
I turn the key back-and-forth on and off on and off what I was trying to do was run diesel through without filters I put a Pan underneath the truck to capture all the diesel that came out to see if there was water in their approx. 3 gallons.
Install the filters front and bottom
And proceeded to prime the diesel according to the book turn on 8 times and shut it off that kind of stuff.
I notice that my batteries was an 06 and a 05
So I put new batteries in platinum batteries because I didn't have much of a charge to turn my engine over Any ideas any Close. I bought me a high pressure oil pump but haven't installed it yet. Someone told me it was that to.. Any ideas would be helpful.
I have a full tank of diesel I'm about To light it on fire.
Thank you in advance for your help
The first thing I would want to check is the fuel pressure. There's another video I seen where a guy had proper fuel pressure but once under load he lost it . In other words he hooked the Guage up so he could drive and watch the pressure drop. That's my starting point seeing how your low fuel light is coming on. There are lots of reasons for a no start or stalling and people can tell you in good faith what was the cause of theirs but there is no substitute for testing . Buying parts can get real expensive in a hurry I know too well. It just has the lift pump there where the first filter is and going by what you've said checking the fuel pressure would be my start . I'd be interested to know what work had been done to the truck if much because there are a lot of other problem areas . Hope this can help .
By the way another thing I was thinking with yours being a 05 you should have the cast iron hpop . Those are good pumps and I'd least suspect it to be bad a first unlike the aluminum that discontinued 2004.5 I believe . Now what happens is the o rings or the stc fitting fails and people will replace a 1000 dollar pump. I'd want to rule out the other weak links like dummy plugs stand pipe o rings etc . Replace the o rings and screen on ipr. A lot of hot stalling is almost always a high pressure oil leak. I had one truck that would run perfect but once warmed up good stall and it turned out to be the o rings for the hpop.
Any updates please! Your sending unit in your fuel tank could be bad, mines has pieces of plastic stuck in the feeding tube, causing the engine to stall after 10-15min of normal driving!
Check the ficm
Good job
Thank you for watching.
Thank you!
Thanks for watching.