Thanks James! These engines are great to work on. All told I have over 30 engines. The majority are Briggs then a couple odd ball Lausons, a Montgomery Wards Airline Charger gas powered 6v DC Charger, one Wisconsin Robin 2 cycle, a Lifan and a 6.5hp Honda on my power washer. Oldest is a 1930s Briggs Model Y that was used on Maytag washing machines after Maytag stopped making their own engines. Fun Fun!! Thanks again and good luck with your 16hp!
Thanks for the advice Zippo, I will see if the popping gets more noticeable this winter season, if it does I guess I will have to open her up and watch vids on lapping my valves. Thanks again.
@TheNamrondivad The only thing that is coming to mind is the possibility that you're screwing in the throttle set screw, which will keep the throttle butterfly from closing. The Choke Butterfly is no where near any other moving parts on the carb, so I can't imagine what would be holding it open. The main needle jet also is no where near any other moving parts, nor is the idle set screw, so the only screw left is the screw that adjusts the idle speed.
What's happening during a fast deceleration is the electrical pulse from the spark plug continues sparking quicker than the fuel supply being admitted into the combustion chamber can use to keep the engines speed up. Thus, you get the popping from the small amounts of fuel being ignited during deceleration. If this becomes more noticeable, then you should look at the exhaust valve and valve seat to make sure they are not damaged, pitted or cracked. Cheers!!
That's the best way I know of how to get the main jets out in tact. I've tried hollow ground bits, narrow drivers etc. Nothing beats a purpose ground screw driver! Thanks for the comment Garrett!! I'd love to see that Cenex!!
It's possible that the engine has been over heated at some point and the cylinder wall is scored. Another cause for this condition is if the engine was ever ran, then hosed down before it had the chance to cool down on it's own. This can crack the block, warp the block, cause the hardened valve seats to float etc. It doesn't sound good I know, but those are the first things I look at when I know the carb is fine. Another slight possibility is a bad head gasket. Let me know!!
A guess, without seeing the items. The o-ring and brass washer are most likely for the main jet set screw. The brass washer would go on the body of the main jet screw that screws into the bottom of the fuel bowl and the small o-ring would go between the main jet screw body and the compression nut that goes on before the main jet screw it self is installed. Hope this helps!
Hiya Jeff! The kits are universal, so there are spare o-rings and gaskets. Just use what you removed from the carb you're working on and toss the spare parts in a baggie for possible future needs. They don't take up space, and you'll have the peace of mind if you ever need to grab this or that. Sorry for the "oopsie" with the Jet. That's a very common problem due to the pot metal carb body and brass jet. Both are delicate materials that damage easily. You're not alone there! Cheers!
Thanks Matt! They're easy to rebuild. Hardest thing is getting the main jet out if the carb has sat a long time and the threads have oxidized. Then they're a bear.
Most kits I find through local sources and a couple years ago I bought out a Simplicity dealership, so I was able to really stock up on parts then. They are also readily available through partstree dott comm and eBay. Typically, a kit can still be purchased at your local small engine dealer as well. Cheers!!
Use a drill to turn the engine over. Spark needs to be blue hot on the plug, so lay it on the engine head with the plug wire attached and make sure it's a good hot spark. If not, the points need cleaned and adjusted to get a hotter spark. You can also put in a hotter burning spark plug. When you get a good hot spark, give it a try. If it doesn't start, check for good fuel supply and as you're cranking it over, have someone hold the throttle butterfly closed at full choke. Keep me posted!
I always bust on Kohlers...lol. I've rebuilt a few larger displacement Kohlers and re-bushed the carbs easily enough. I have found though......Briggs parts are less expensive! I also leave the balance gears out of the Kohlers like many do. The first couple I rebuilt I replaced them easily enough, but after talking to many Kohler guys, the vast majority left them out on rebuilds.
So to change the main gasket between the two bodies, you have to remove the pin that holds the float in correct? Any ideas on what to do if the pin is stuck?
@ZippoVarga kohler engines are no doubt great engines. and yeah the carbs are pretty straight forward to repair, but you are not kidding about briggs parts costing less! both kohler and onan parts cost a fortune! we rebuilt the onan on my dads Case garden tractor a couple years ago finding parts reasonably priced was half the battle! rebuilding the kohler on my 1977 john deere 210 wasnt bad to find parts, but it sure cost me! rings and a rod ran me close to $100 if i recall.
Good suggestions! The engine did not have spark before, I installed a new magneto and cleaned the point. The sparks are white in color. Did not know that will make a difference. How can I adjust it to make it hot?
Check with JacksSmallEngines dott comm. The carb was used for many years and the rebuild kits are readily available through them or on eBay. It's a universal kit, so there will be parts you won't need. Best of luck!! Cheers!!
Flavio, thanks for stopping by. You can go to eBay or PartsTree dott comm or JacksSmallEngines dott comm to find your carburetor rebuild kits. They are readily available and many people are happy to ship internationally. Best of luck to you. If you need further help, let me know. Cheers!! Zip
They've been NLA (No Longer Available) for many years. Set a saved search on eBay for the part number and when one pops up, no matter the cost, jump on it. Zip~
I got the gap set correctly now but the egine is still hard to start. I got it running once in a while but I can't do it consistantly. Spray the starting fluid into the spark plug directly with no help. The carb. is very simple. The main just is clear and set with default 1.5 turns out. Do you think rebuulding it is going to do anything?
@ZippoVarga that is just a design flaw of the carberator. the rest of a Kohler K series engine is very ruggedly built. i love my kohler engines they are very dependable. i havent had much exposior to the larger briggs engines but my 16hp briggs is great! usually starts in 1 pull. i like it about as much. i like working on old briggs and old briggs carbs. they are easy to work on. i should get some carb dip. that would be handy!
I have an old generator that uses the same 10HP engine. I got sparks and compression. I cleaned the carb. after watching this video. Everything looks good but I still can't get the engine to start. It does not trying to fire at all. I use some starting fluid with no help. My engine use a rope to start. My questions are: 1. Is there an electric start option or auto rewind like the mower which I can put on this engine? 2. Is there anything else I can try at this time? Thanks.
@kelkenb8 I sure do! I just gave you the most common and easiest repair. Next, take the gas tank off the tractor, empty it out, then inspect it for rust in the tank. If there is, take the fuel petcock off and replace it with a brass pluf, throw a few nuts and bolts i the tank with about a pint of mineral spirits. This will break anything loose like rust or varnish from sitting for extended periods. Also, on the tank petcock...blow the screen filter and it will eliminate the tank as the issues.
Rebuilt Carb ( needles and gaskets) cleaned and still running too rich same as before I started. I cant lean it out enough . Any thoughts on this 70s 3 hp I'm trying to fix for a friend ?
I suspect someone has either changed the carburetor from a 5hp which will bolt up, but has a larger orifice/main jet behind the metering screw. I would order the proper jet for the 3hp engine and install that in the carburetor and see if things lean out. Zip~
Zippo thank you very much for the instructional video. Per your video, will a properly tightened main jet and a level float solve the smelly gas issues with these old Briggs carburetors? My 15 HP Briggs has a gas odor coming from the carburetor. A gas shut off valve and running it out of fuel mostly solves this issue, but I would like to not have to go through the shut off procedure every time I use the tractor. This is a waste of gas. The bottom of these carbs tend to get a drip. What is the soltuion? Thanks Jack
+Jack Sarro As with any old school carburetor, you cannot avoid the fuel smell. However, with the drip you describe, I would say your main emulsion tube (jet) could stand to be seated a little more securely. Cheers! Zip~
Hello Zippo, your video helped me rebuild my carb on my 8hp briggs, thanks. She runs well now, only when I throttle her down do get a few pops thru the muffler. Is it normal though to get this small popping when you throttle down a briggs quickly?
The bushings on each side of the throttle valve are a bit womped out on my carb. Any idea if this can be replaced and if so where one might find replacements?
Great videos...I have a 16 syncro start Briggs and let my shop mechanic clean the carb and he did not take the jet out before splitting the carb and yup its broke now. My question is the jet has 40 stamped on it and our local tractor junk man has a new one with a 30 stamped on it. Will this work? Thanks (sully)
It will. You'll just have to meter the emulsion tube adjusting screw to compensate for the smaller venturi in the main jet (emulsion tube). Keep us posted John! Cheers! Zip~
Hey zippo great video and let me thank you in advance... I am pretty savvy with engines but can't seem to get my older Brings to run.. I have been through the carb, not rebuilt but thorough cleaning.. the engine will run with a sniff of starting fluid through the air intake so I assume I have a carb prob.. everything looked good while inside.. float was good, needle looked good.. it has clogs in the main jet that I removed but otherwise the entire carb looked great.. when I choke it I get excess fuel dripping and sometimes running out once the choke is taken off but still nothing.. the float seemed to be functioning correctly but I am unsure if the condition of the rubber or plastic on the end of the needle.. when carb was upside down I could not blow air through the fuel inlet, when right side up I could, so I figured it was ok.. I am not really sure where my prob is.. I figure I should be able to at least get it to fire somewhat with starting fluid.. I picked this thing up for 50 bucks on a Generator and don't want to spend 180 on a new carb.. puzzled
Many things can plague a no start condition. A ridge on the metering screw needle, improperly seated main jet (emulsion tube), incorrect initial setting on the carb screws, gaskets drawing air around them (both carb and intake elbow) and those are just the quick check things. Turn the metering screw (providing it doesn't have a ridge or damage) in until it just seats (by hand), then turn it out 1/2 turn only. Set the idle adjustment screw at 1 turn out. Without the choke on. Make sure the throttle plate adjusting screw is actually opening the throttle butterfly and without the choke on, give it a squirt of starting fluid and attempt to start. I have other videos on these carburetors including the importance of properly seating the main jet (emulsion tube). Once you get the engine to run at idle with the settings I described, start dialing it in. Being on a generator, it's designed to start at a high RPM. You want to bypass the wide open throttle by manually or mechanically closing the butterfly. Get the engine to start and run at idle, then make your adjustments to get it to run at the RPM needed for the Generator Power Head. Zip~
Just give the adjustment screw 1/4 turn at a time and check spark. When you get a good hot blue spark, then you should be ready to go. Another possibility is the gap between the coil and flywheel. Check my Magneto installation vid to make sure you've got the right gap set there too. Standard points gap is set to .020, +/- .002 Best of luck!
Great video but I have one question. When I took mine apart there were no rubber gaskets left. In the kit I received there are a few I know where they go but there is a verrrrrrrry tiny one that I don't know where it goes. The others are about 7/16 in size and I know where the black rubber O ring goes But again I have no idea where to pit the one that is about 1/8 of an inch in diameter It is green in colour.. But your video has helped me a ton as this is my first ever rebuild. I have a 78 Toro 826 and it is a awesome snowblower.
Extra gaskets are included in the kits to make them more universal. If you didn't remove a tiny gasket, then you don't need it. I'm glad the videos have helped! That's why I do what I do Skip! Cheers! Zip~
Zippo!! I have a major leak of gas coming out the bottom and throttle area after cleaning up the carb. I seated the main jet screw all the way down too. Not sure what I am missing here. Any help? I don't have a rebuild kit and have been using a gasoline resistant gasket sealer. Since I don't have a rebuild kit, would that cause it to leak like this??
Thanks so much for the video. Big help. Question. My medium two piece foo jet had green gunk in the needle valve seat are. I removed and installed the tiny green rubber seat. I think I put it in backwards, one side was solid the opposite side had a tiny groove around the it. I put the groove toward the bowl. Was this correct? Also in your video, in the clear bag with the needle is the seat. The seat also came with my kit, but it has threads and a slot for a slotted screwdriver. My seat looks like it's pressed into the upper carb. How do I install the seat that is threaded, and if I did, wouldn't the new seat no longer sit flush with the upper carb housing? Also if I don't use the rubber seat, can I just use the rubber tipped needle instead?
The kits are for a multitude of variations of these carburetors. You need nothing but the new needle. Use the rubber tipped one. If you didn't take it out of the carb, it doesn't go in the carb is my plan of attack. Meaning, if I don't take out the seat, I don't put one in. A seal that isn't in my carb, likewise, doesn't get used from the kit. There's always parts left over. Look at your seat, if it doesn't have provision for a screwdriver....it's not replaceable. IF it does, replace it. Cheers!! Zip~
ZippoVarga Thanks. It did have green gunk that was pliable and didn't dissolve in carb cleaner that was in the brass seat. Seeing that I had a green rubber seat in my kit, I put it in. Starts and runs and can get it to run for sometimes 10 minutes before it seems like it loses fuel and stalls. I think I'll try the rubber tipped needle.
Thanks Matt! Kohler carbs just plain suck because of the butterfly shafts always wallerin out the holes in the carb bodies. I've never had that happen with any Briggs carb. That's why I leave the Kohlers to those Cub guys..lol. They believe both are superior and who am I to show them the light? lol....I'll pay for that one I'm sure..hehe
Hi Zippo.. love these videos. And your ride on mowers/tractors are simply amazing. I have a 1943 Briggs and Stratton ZZ. The carb is identical. I was just wondering if you could tell me where I could find one of those rebuild kits? Desperately need one for the ZZ Cheers, Dan
Hi Zippo, Ive looked at these videos several times and today rebuild my briggs carb (same large flo jet/split) which is on a 8hp generator. Followed step by step and I have constant leaking gas thru the main jet area/screw and at the carb body separation. Replaced fuel supply needle (rubber tipped) spring and pin, main jet, cap with sealing washer and inserted adjusting needle (1.5 turns back) new gasket and everything super clean. Starts and run great but leaks like hell. What can I do? thanks!
My main jet seat that I want to replace doesn't have a screwdriver slot how do you get it out and put the new one in I assume you just jam a screwdriver into it and turn it out?
hey mate i have a briggs&stratton 3.5hp sprint motor and when i start it the throttle goes up and down i have changed the carbie / diaphragm and gasket / throttle spring and linkages but it still does it can u please help
Zippo, great video! I just bought an MW 14 Variable Speed tractor, it has an almost identical carb on it as in this video.. my question is fuel was flowing past the needle valve and pooling in that area underneath the air filter. I opened it up and all the parts look very good however my float was sitting much closer to the carb top and not horizontal like yours. Any chance that's why fuel was flooding?
AllanonBH The float can certainly cause this, but I would also be sure to seat and re-seat the main jet a number of times to better mate the two contact surfaces. Don't use any kind or sealer or thread lock. As you run the screw in and back it back off again, you're polishing the two surfaces and matching them to one another. On the last tighten, tighten it quite tightly. Be sure to make the specialty screw driver to help avoid damaging the cross slot in the jet. Let me know if I can be of more assistance!! Cheers!! Zip~
ZippoVarga Thanks Zippo! By correcting the float angle it solved my flooding issue completely. Luckily the rubber tip on the needle valve was in excellent shape. I am glad I watched your video about removing the main jet first, boy that would have been a mess otherwise. I did want to ask, do you have any videos on upgrading the ignition on one of these old BS engines?, I believe my points plunger lobe is gone and would like to replace it with an electronic ignition but am unsure of which parts to use. My engine is a: 320424 Thanks!
I sure do! There is a recently posted video on installing the Nova II module in place of the points. It will work fine with your engine and they're available for around 15 bucks on fleabay. So glad your problem was fixed and glad the video helped you! Cheers!! Zip~
Awesome video Zippo! Question: I've got a 3112 - rebuilt the carb as you demonstrated. All looks fine. But the engine will not start. I checked that the gas was flowing as it should. I also have the idle screw and main jet settings at 1 1/2 turns. Any thoughts? Didn't seem like the engine was getting gas as it only turned over. Thank you for your thoughts.
+Joseph Reitano Hi Joseph....I typically check for good spark, then I drop a few drops of fuel into the air filter inlet, put it on full choke and see if I can get the engine to pop. If so, then it will run. I then start opening the main jet (emulsion tube) metering screw little by little ( like 1/8 turn at a time) while cranking the engine over until it fires on it's own. Once it is running, I then start opening the choke while opening the main jet screw in 1/8ths increments until the engine is running on its own with no choke. At this point, I will adjust the butterfly screw to make sure my RPMs are at the minimum 1100 idle speed. Once there, I fine tune the idle mixture screw (top horizontal screw by the air cleaner assembly). Finally, I start increasing the engine RPMs and adjust the main jet screw accordingly. When finished, the engine should Idle great, then ramp up slowly and listen for hesitation and sputtering. If everything accelerates the way it should, then I call it good and put the engine to work. Hope this info helps get your machine going! Cheers!! Zip~
Zippo, great video! I have a Simplicity Landlord 2110 with a carb very similar to this one, in which i replaced the hi-pressure nozzle and float and lower carb body. This video got me to get it where it runs, thank you! I am having a flooding problem though. What exactly is the float supposed to do? And on my lower carb body there is a filter hole in the bottom. Gas is gushing out of that. Should that be plugged? Seems strange that there should be a hole in the bottom, i don't see that on other carbs. Thanks, Mike.
+michael docherty The hole in the bottom of the carb towards the air cleaner is a weep hole and it's there to allow excess fuel to escape. It could be one of two things causing the leakage. One, the float and needle are not doing their jobs, or two, the high pressure nozzle isn't seated well enough to the carb body. The second is the most common issue. Simply remove the metering needle and holder, then back out and reinstall the nozzle a number of times...this helps mate the two surfaces together promoting a better seal. Really tighten the nozzle down good, but be careful to not damage the nozzle. If you haven't made a specialty screw driver as described in the video, I would do so before performing this operation. Cheers!! Zip~
Sorry for the delayed reply. First things first, I agree 100% that nothing SHOULD take a specialty tool!!!! But sacrificing an old screwdriver to protect the softer brass is a small sacrifice to make. You most likely have a clogged pick up tube. Check my video on these types of carbs. Should help out. Cheers!
My name is Chamila and I am from Australia. Firstly I have to say thank you so much making all these videos for everyone out in the world to learn about this tractors. I recently acquired a Simplicity 3212V garden tractor that come with 16HP Briggs and Stratton engine but the engine stops when the Choke is off. It runs well when the Choke is on. Can you please help me out to find out the problem? I suspect some sort of issue with Carburetor. If it is a carb problem, how do I find the model number to order the parts for this carburetor? I also have to say that I did not much about these engine until I started to learn from you. Thank you.
I'm glad you found the channel Chamila! Three things to do. Replace your fuel line, thoroughly clean your gas tank and then clean the carburetor. I have a 3 video series on rebuilding the carburetor that will help guide you through the disassembly and reassembly process. It's pretty strait forward and most generally, a rebuild kit isn't needed if you're careful. Before you take the carburetor off and apart though, replace the fuel line (add an in line filter) and clean the tank. After that, run the engine, and slowly open the main jet adjustment screw (counter or anti clockwise)...a little goes a long way. As you open this metering screw, try taking the choke off little by little. It could be just an adjustment issue with the carburetor. But still clean the tank and replace the fuel line. Keep me advised of your progress. Cheers!! Zip~
Hello Zippo, This video was extremely informative! This is my exact carburetor. There were no markings on my engine anywhere. Where can I buy the rebuild kit that has the main jet with the flat on the end? The ones I have found on the internet show a screw type end. I need the exact one you are showing in this video. Great series of videos! Thanks KenI
These kits are available from retailers. Contact Brenda at Sandylakeimp dott comm and tell her Zippo sent you. She can get your kit. Just tell her you need a rebuild kit for a cast iron horizontal 4 bolt or three bolt carb and she can do the rest. Cheers! Zip~
If it's the same carb, your kit part number is (2)299720 or any variation of replacement kit currently available. There are literally millions of these engines in circulation, so all Brenda really needs to know is if it is a carb that has 3 or 4 screws holding the fuel bowl to the top of the carburetor body. Note: some parts will not be needed for the rebuild. Just match up what has the same visual appearance and you should be good to go. Cheers!! Zip~
@ZippoVarga Thanks Zip on seeing that the main jet had to be taken out before the lower half could be taken off. I am pretty good at mechanics and engines, but if I had tried to take carb apart without first knowing that the main jet should be taken out first, Well lets just say it would have came off one way or the other ..lol I didn't get the Nickname "Tackhammer" for nothing.Which means "If I cain't fix it, I'll tear it up!!! Have a cast iron 16hp Briggs running a 7 1/2 hp Air Comp. Thanks
zip, hope u can help, just inherited this b1 tractor,has the same carb as your rebuild part 1,i have no numbers to identfy anything with, could i get your kit number and where to get it from,thanx if u can help, bob
Take the engine numbers and go to the Briggs & Stratton web sight. There, you can enter your numbers and retrieve your IPL (Individual Parts List) which will have your carburetor rebuild kit numbers within. Zip~
I fix my leaking carb using Blue monster thread tape at the high idle screw (not the emulsion screw) but the needle that comes after, I also had to put some of this tape on the bottom screws cause my carb is a 2 pieces carb. Hope can help somebody
Hi Rob.....The engine, if original, is a model 19 Briggs and there should be an ID plate rivited to the front (Crank shaft end) of the sheet metal. Your rebuild kit is a universal kit for all the flow jet carbs and if you put this number "310603652478" in the search area on eBay, it'll come up for you. There ARE extra parts to cover slight differences as requested by those who contracted Briggs who may have wanted something slight different than stock. Only use what matches your carb. Cheers!!
Thanks James! These engines are great to work on. All told I have over 30 engines. The majority are Briggs then a couple odd ball Lausons, a Montgomery Wards Airline Charger gas powered 6v DC Charger, one Wisconsin Robin 2 cycle, a Lifan and a 6.5hp Honda on my power washer. Oldest is a 1930s Briggs Model Y that was used on Maytag washing machines after Maytag stopped making their own engines. Fun Fun!! Thanks again and good luck with your 16hp!
Thanks for the advice Zippo, I will see if the popping gets more noticeable this winter season, if it does I guess I will have to open her up and watch vids on lapping my valves. Thanks again.
I still gotta get me some of that chem dip stuff. Something Ive been meaning to get for a long time! Another great video buddy!
Hey man been a minute.Hope your doing great really miss and appreciate the videos. Hope to see you soon. ❤👍
Great info and video. Thanks Zippo
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video
@TheTractortroy I'm glad they help Troy. Let me know if you need any other videos and I'll see what I can do buddy. Cheers!
great info sean i just rebuilt my 16 horse briggs carb 2 days ago looks like the same setup as mine good vid!
@TheNamrondivad The only thing that is coming to mind is the possibility that you're screwing in the throttle set screw, which will keep the throttle butterfly from closing. The Choke Butterfly is no where near any other moving parts on the carb, so I can't imagine what would be holding it open. The main needle jet also is no where near any other moving parts, nor is the idle set screw, so the only screw left is the screw that adjusts the idle speed.
What's happening during a fast deceleration is the electrical pulse from the spark plug continues sparking quicker than the fuel supply being admitted into the combustion chamber can use to keep the engines speed up. Thus, you get the popping from the small amounts of fuel being ignited during deceleration. If this becomes more noticeable, then you should look at the exhaust valve and valve seat to make sure they are not damaged, pitted or cracked. Cheers!!
That's the best way I know of how to get the main jets out in tact. I've tried hollow ground bits, narrow drivers etc. Nothing beats a purpose ground screw driver! Thanks for the comment Garrett!! I'd love to see that Cenex!!
It's possible that the engine has been over heated at some point and the cylinder wall is scored. Another cause for this condition is if the engine was ever ran, then hosed down before it had the chance to cool down on it's own. This can crack the block, warp the block, cause the hardened valve seats to float etc. It doesn't sound good I know, but those are the first things I look at when I know the carb is fine. Another slight possibility is a bad head gasket. Let me know!!
A guess, without seeing the items. The o-ring and brass washer are most likely for the main jet set screw. The brass washer would go on the body of the main jet screw that screws into the bottom of the fuel bowl and the small o-ring would go between the main jet screw body and the compression nut that goes on before the main jet screw it self is installed. Hope this helps!
Hiya Jeff! The kits are universal, so there are spare o-rings and gaskets. Just use what you removed from the carb you're working on and toss the spare parts in a baggie for possible future needs. They don't take up space, and you'll have the peace of mind if you ever need to grab this or that. Sorry for the "oopsie" with the Jet. That's a very common problem due to the pot metal carb body and brass jet. Both are delicate materials that damage easily. You're not alone there! Cheers!
Thanks Matt! They're easy to rebuild. Hardest thing is getting the main jet out if the carb has sat a long time and the threads have oxidized. Then they're a bear.
Great video Sean. Very helpful
Most kits I find through local sources and a couple years ago I bought out a Simplicity dealership, so I was able to really stock up on parts then. They are also readily available through partstree dott comm and eBay. Typically, a kit can still be purchased at your local small engine dealer as well. Cheers!!
Use a drill to turn the engine over. Spark needs to be blue hot on the plug, so lay it on the engine head with the plug wire attached and make sure it's a good hot spark. If not, the points need cleaned and adjusted to get a hotter spark. You can also put in a hotter burning spark plug. When you get a good hot spark, give it a try. If it doesn't start, check for good fuel supply and as you're cranking it over, have someone hold the throttle butterfly closed at full choke. Keep me posted!
I always bust on Kohlers...lol. I've rebuilt a few larger displacement Kohlers and re-bushed the carbs easily enough. I have found though......Briggs parts are less expensive! I also leave the balance gears out of the Kohlers like many do. The first couple I rebuilt I replaced them easily enough, but after talking to many Kohler guys, the vast majority left them out on rebuilds.
No problem at all!! Glad the videos are helpful!!
So to change the main gasket between the two bodies, you have to remove the pin that holds the float in correct? Any ideas on what to do if the pin is stuck?
@ZippoVarga kohler engines are no doubt great engines. and yeah the carbs are pretty straight forward to repair, but you are not kidding about briggs parts costing less! both kohler and onan parts cost a fortune! we rebuilt the onan on my dads Case garden tractor a couple years ago finding parts reasonably priced was half the battle! rebuilding the kohler on my 1977 john deere 210 wasnt bad to find parts, but it sure cost me! rings and a rod ran me close to $100 if i recall.
Good suggestions! The engine did not have spark before, I installed a new magneto and cleaned the point. The sparks are white in color. Did not know that will make a difference. How can I adjust it to make it hot?
Check with JacksSmallEngines dott comm. The carb was used for many years and the rebuild kits are readily available through them or on eBay. It's a universal kit, so there will be parts you won't need. Best of luck!! Cheers!!
Hey Charles! Thanks man! That gallon can stores a lot easier than a 5 gallon wash tub..lol.
That's why I do it!!! Thanks Ram!!!
Flavio, thanks for stopping by. You can go to eBay or PartsTree dott comm or JacksSmallEngines dott comm to find your carburetor rebuild kits. They are readily available and many people are happy to ship internationally. Best of luck to you. If you need further help, let me know. Cheers!! Zip
Best on youtube for this..I would really like to find the tap set I believe a 19245? I cant find it anywhere
They've been NLA (No Longer Available) for many years. Set a saved search on eBay for the part number and when one pops up, no matter the cost, jump on it. Zip~
Hi Mark. The carb would be the same type of up draft carb and the rebuild kits are still available. Check your message in box.
I got the gap set correctly now but the egine is still hard to start. I got it running once in a while but I can't do it consistantly. Spray the starting fluid into the spark plug directly with no help. The carb. is very simple. The main just is clear and set with default 1.5 turns out. Do you think rebuulding it is going to do anything?
Right on mate. That will help me.
@ZippoVarga that is just a design flaw of the carberator. the rest of a Kohler K series engine is very ruggedly built. i love my kohler engines they are very dependable. i havent had much exposior to the larger briggs engines but my 16hp briggs is great! usually starts in 1 pull. i like it about as much. i like working on old briggs and old briggs carbs. they are easy to work on. i should get some carb dip. that would be handy!
I have an old generator that uses the same 10HP engine. I got sparks and compression. I cleaned the carb. after watching this video. Everything looks good but I still can't get the engine to start. It does not trying to fire at all. I use some starting fluid with no help. My engine use a rope to start. My questions are:
1. Is there an electric start option or auto rewind like the mower which I can put on this engine?
2. Is there anything else I can try at this time?
Thanks.
@kelkenb8 I sure do! I just gave you the most common and easiest repair. Next, take the gas tank off the tractor, empty it out, then inspect it for rust in the tank. If there is, take the fuel petcock off and replace it with a brass pluf, throw a few nuts and bolts i the tank with about a pint of mineral spirits. This will break anything loose like rust or varnish from sitting for extended periods. Also, on the tank petcock...blow the screen filter and it will eliminate the tank as the issues.
Rebuilt Carb ( needles and gaskets) cleaned and still running too rich same as before I started. I cant lean it out enough . Any thoughts on this 70s 3 hp I'm trying to fix for a friend ?
I suspect someone has either changed the carburetor from a 5hp which will bolt up, but has a larger orifice/main jet behind the metering screw. I would order the proper jet for the 3hp engine and install that in the carburetor and see if things lean out. Zip~
Zippo thank you very much for the instructional video. Per your video, will a properly tightened main jet and a level float solve the smelly gas issues with these old Briggs carburetors? My 15 HP Briggs has a gas odor coming from the carburetor. A gas shut off valve and running it out of fuel mostly solves this issue, but I would like to not have to go through the shut off procedure every time I use the tractor. This is a waste of gas. The bottom of these carbs tend to get a drip. What is the soltuion? Thanks Jack
+Jack Sarro As with any old school carburetor, you cannot avoid the fuel smell. However, with the drip you describe, I would say your main emulsion tube (jet) could stand to be seated a little more securely. Cheers! Zip~
Hello Zippo, your video helped me rebuild my carb on my 8hp briggs, thanks. She runs well now, only when I throttle her down do get a few pops thru the muffler. Is it normal though to get this small popping when you throttle down a briggs quickly?
The bushings on each side of the throttle valve are a bit womped out on my carb. Any idea if this can be replaced and if so where one might find replacements?
Great videos...I have a 16 syncro start Briggs and let my shop mechanic clean the carb and he did not take the jet out before splitting the carb and yup its broke now. My question is the jet has 40 stamped on it and our local tractor junk man has a new one with a 30 stamped on it. Will this work? Thanks (sully)
It will. You'll just have to meter the emulsion tube adjusting screw to compensate for the smaller venturi in the main jet (emulsion tube). Keep us posted John! Cheers! Zip~
Hey zippo great video and let me thank you in advance... I am pretty savvy with engines but can't seem to get my older
Brings to run.. I have been through the carb, not rebuilt but thorough cleaning.. the engine will run with a sniff of starting fluid through the air intake so I assume I have a carb prob.. everything looked good while inside.. float was good, needle looked good.. it has clogs in the main jet that I removed but otherwise the entire carb looked great.. when I choke it I get excess fuel dripping and sometimes running out once the choke is taken off but still nothing.. the float seemed to be functioning correctly but I am unsure if the condition of the rubber or plastic on the end of the needle.. when carb was upside down I could not blow air through the fuel inlet, when right side up I could, so I figured it was ok.. I am not really sure where my prob is.. I figure I should be able to at least get it to fire somewhat with starting fluid.. I picked this thing up for 50 bucks on a
Generator and don't want to spend 180 on a new carb.. puzzled
Many things can plague a no start condition. A ridge on the metering screw needle, improperly seated main jet (emulsion tube), incorrect initial setting on the carb screws, gaskets drawing air around them (both carb and intake elbow) and those are just the quick check things. Turn the metering screw (providing it doesn't have a ridge or damage) in until it just seats (by hand), then turn it out 1/2 turn only. Set the idle adjustment screw at 1 turn out. Without the choke on. Make sure the throttle plate adjusting screw is actually opening the throttle butterfly and without the choke on, give it a squirt of starting fluid and attempt to start. I have other videos on these carburetors including the importance of properly seating the main jet (emulsion tube). Once you get the engine to run at idle with the settings I described, start dialing it in. Being on a generator, it's designed to start at a high RPM. You want to bypass the wide open throttle by manually or mechanically closing the butterfly. Get the engine to start and run at idle, then make your adjustments to get it to run at the RPM needed for the Generator Power Head. Zip~
Just give the adjustment screw 1/4 turn at a time and check spark. When you get a good hot blue spark, then you should be ready to go. Another possibility is the gap between the coil and flywheel. Check my Magneto installation vid to make sure you've got the right gap set there too. Standard points gap is set to .020, +/- .002 Best of luck!
Great video but I have one question. When I took mine apart there were no rubber gaskets left.
In the kit I received there are a few I know where they go but there is a verrrrrrrry tiny one that I don't know where it goes. The others are about 7/16 in size and I know where the black rubber O ring goes But again I have no idea where to pit the one that is about 1/8 of an inch in diameter It is green in colour..
But your video has helped me a ton as this is my first ever rebuild. I have a 78 Toro 826 and it is a awesome snowblower.
Extra gaskets are included in the kits to make them more universal. If you didn't remove a tiny gasket, then you don't need it. I'm glad the videos have helped! That's why I do what I do Skip! Cheers! Zip~
ZippoVarga Thank you very much for the fast reply. And thank you for the heads up on the gaskets..
Zippo!! I have a major leak of gas coming out the bottom and throttle area after cleaning up the carb. I seated the main jet screw all the way down too. Not sure what I am missing here. Any help? I don't have a rebuild kit and have been using a gasoline resistant gasket sealer. Since I don't have a rebuild kit, would that cause it to leak like this??
76cb360 i've had the same problem with a carb that I have. take a look at the needle valve that the float operates,it may not be sealing
Thanks so much for the video. Big help. Question. My medium two piece foo jet had green gunk in the needle valve seat are. I removed and installed the tiny green rubber seat. I think I put it in backwards, one side was solid the opposite side had a tiny groove around the it. I put the groove toward the bowl. Was this correct? Also in your video, in the clear bag with the needle is the seat. The seat also came with my kit, but it has threads and a slot for a slotted screwdriver. My seat looks like it's pressed into the upper carb. How do I install the seat that is threaded, and if I did, wouldn't the new seat no longer sit flush with the upper carb housing? Also if I don't use the rubber seat, can I just use the rubber tipped needle instead?
The kits are for a multitude of variations of these carburetors. You need nothing but the new needle. Use the rubber tipped one. If you didn't take it out of the carb, it doesn't go in the carb is my plan of attack. Meaning, if I don't take out the seat, I don't put one in. A seal that isn't in my carb, likewise, doesn't get used from the kit. There's always parts left over. Look at your seat, if it doesn't have provision for a screwdriver....it's not replaceable. IF it does, replace it. Cheers!! Zip~
ZippoVarga Thanks. It did have green gunk that was pliable and didn't dissolve in carb cleaner that was in the brass seat. Seeing that I had a green rubber seat in my kit, I put it in. Starts and runs and can get it to run for sometimes 10 minutes before it seems like it loses fuel and stalls. I think I'll try the rubber tipped needle.
Thanks Matt! Kohler carbs just plain suck because of the butterfly shafts always wallerin out the holes in the carb bodies. I've never had that happen with any Briggs carb. That's why I leave the Kohlers to those Cub guys..lol. They believe both are superior and who am I to show them the light? lol....I'll pay for that one I'm sure..hehe
Just wondering where to get that kit you have in this video?
Hi Zippo.. love these videos. And your ride on mowers/tractors are simply amazing. I have a 1943 Briggs and Stratton ZZ. The carb is identical. I was just wondering if you could tell me where I could find one of those rebuild kits? Desperately need one for the ZZ
Cheers, Dan
Hi Zippo, Ive looked at these videos several times and today rebuild my briggs carb (same large flo jet/split) which is on a 8hp generator. Followed step by step and I have constant leaking gas thru the main jet area/screw and at the carb body separation. Replaced fuel supply needle (rubber tipped) spring and pin, main jet, cap with sealing washer and inserted adjusting needle (1.5 turns back) new gasket and everything super clean. Starts and run great but leaks like hell. What can I do? thanks!
My main jet seat that I want to replace doesn't have a screwdriver slot how do you get it out and put the
new one in I assume you just jam a screwdriver into it and turn it out?
Not all of these carburetors had replaceable seats Mike. I use the rubber tipped needles when rebuilding them. Zip~
hey mate i have a briggs&stratton 3.5hp sprint motor and when i start it the throttle goes up and down i have changed the carbie / diaphragm and gasket / throttle spring and linkages but it still does it can u please help
Zippo, great video! I just bought an MW 14 Variable Speed tractor, it has an almost identical carb on it as in this video.. my question is fuel was flowing past the needle valve and pooling in that area underneath the air filter. I opened it up and all the parts look very good however my float was sitting much closer to the carb top and not horizontal like yours. Any chance that's why fuel was flooding?
AllanonBH The float can certainly cause this, but I would also be sure to seat and re-seat the main jet a number of times to better mate the two contact surfaces. Don't use any kind or sealer or thread lock. As you run the screw in and back it back off again, you're polishing the two surfaces and matching them to one another. On the last tighten, tighten it quite tightly. Be sure to make the specialty screw driver to help avoid damaging the cross slot in the jet. Let me know if I can be of more assistance!! Cheers!! Zip~
ZippoVarga Thanks Zippo! By correcting the float angle it solved my flooding issue completely. Luckily the rubber tip on the needle valve was in excellent shape. I am glad I watched your video about removing the main jet first, boy that would have been a mess otherwise. I did want to ask, do you have any videos on upgrading the ignition on one of these old BS engines?, I believe my points plunger lobe is gone and would like to replace it with an electronic ignition but am unsure of which parts to use. My engine is a: 320424
Thanks!
I sure do! There is a recently posted video on installing the Nova II module in place of the points. It will work fine with your engine and they're available for around 15 bucks on fleabay. So glad your problem was fixed and glad the video helped you! Cheers!! Zip~
How good are the aftermarket carburetors i.e. the $40 as you see on ebay compared to the new Briggs for $200. plus (Flo-Jet)
Personally, you get what you pay for in my most humble of opinions. Will they work...yeah. Will they work well? That's the question. Zip~
I was given Briggs 8hp engine that hasn't run in years. Is 65 psi compression to low?
Awesome video Zippo! Question: I've got a 3112 - rebuilt the carb as you demonstrated. All looks fine. But the engine will not start. I checked that the gas was flowing as it should. I also have the idle screw and main jet settings at 1 1/2 turns. Any thoughts? Didn't seem like the engine was getting gas as it only turned over. Thank you for your thoughts.
+Joseph Reitano Hi Joseph....I typically check for good spark, then I drop a few drops of fuel into the air filter inlet, put it on full choke and see if I can get the engine to pop. If so, then it will run. I then start opening the main jet (emulsion tube) metering screw little by little ( like 1/8 turn at a time) while cranking the engine over until it fires on it's own. Once it is running, I then start opening the choke while opening the main jet screw in 1/8ths increments until the engine is running on its own with no choke. At this point, I will adjust the butterfly screw to make sure my RPMs are at the minimum 1100 idle speed. Once there, I fine tune the idle mixture screw (top horizontal screw by the air cleaner assembly). Finally, I start increasing the engine RPMs and adjust the main jet screw accordingly. When finished, the engine should Idle great, then ramp up slowly and listen for hesitation and sputtering. If everything accelerates the way it should, then I call it good and put the engine to work. Hope this info helps get your machine going! Cheers!! Zip~
What's the part # for the carb rebuild kit for that 23D?
@kelkenb8 sounds like possible worn throttle shaft, causing air leakage..
Where do you get your kit?
@ZippoVarga Thanks,now I just need a gasket set for the motor.
Zippo, great video! I have a Simplicity Landlord 2110 with a carb very similar to this one, in which i replaced the hi-pressure nozzle and float and lower carb body. This video got me to get it where it runs, thank you! I am having a flooding problem though. What exactly is the float supposed to do? And on my lower carb body there is a filter hole in the bottom. Gas is gushing out of that. Should that be plugged? Seems strange that there should be a hole in the bottom, i don't see that on other carbs. Thanks, Mike.
+michael docherty The hole in the bottom of the carb towards the air cleaner is a weep hole and it's there to allow excess fuel to escape. It could be one of two things causing the leakage. One, the float and needle are not doing their jobs, or two, the high pressure nozzle isn't seated well enough to the carb body. The second is the most common issue. Simply remove the metering needle and holder, then back out and reinstall the nozzle a number of times...this helps mate the two surfaces together promoting a better seal. Really tighten the nozzle down good, but be careful to not damage the nozzle. If you haven't made a specialty screw driver as described in the video, I would do so before performing this operation. Cheers!! Zip~
+ZippoVarga Thanks I'll try both. MD
Sorry for the delayed reply. First things first, I agree 100% that nothing SHOULD take a specialty tool!!!! But sacrificing an old screwdriver to protect the softer brass is a small sacrifice to make. You most likely have a clogged pick up tube. Check my video on these types of carbs. Should help out. Cheers!
So where do you get your rebuild kits?
My name is Chamila and I am from Australia. Firstly I have to say thank you so much making all these videos for everyone out in the world to learn about this tractors. I recently acquired a Simplicity 3212V garden tractor that come with 16HP Briggs and Stratton engine but the engine stops when the Choke is off. It runs well when the Choke is on. Can you please help me out to find out the problem? I suspect some sort of issue with Carburetor. If it is a carb problem, how do I find the model number to order the parts for this carburetor? I also have to say that I did not much about these engine until I started to learn from you. Thank you.
I'm glad you found the channel Chamila! Three things to do. Replace your fuel line, thoroughly clean your gas tank and then clean the carburetor. I have a 3 video series on rebuilding the carburetor that will help guide you through the disassembly and reassembly process. It's pretty strait forward and most generally, a rebuild kit isn't needed if you're careful. Before you take the carburetor off and apart though, replace the fuel line (add an in line filter) and clean the tank. After that, run the engine, and slowly open the main jet adjustment screw (counter or anti clockwise)...a little goes a long way. As you open this metering screw, try taking the choke off little by little. It could be just an adjustment issue with the carburetor. But still clean the tank and replace the fuel line. Keep me advised of your progress. Cheers!! Zip~
Hello Zippo, This video was extremely informative! This is my exact carburetor. There were no markings on my engine anywhere. Where can I buy the rebuild kit that has the main jet with the flat on the end? The ones I have found on the internet show a screw type end. I need the exact one you are showing in this video. Great series of videos! Thanks KenI
These kits are available from retailers. Contact Brenda at Sandylakeimp dott comm and tell her Zippo sent you. She can get your kit. Just tell her you need a rebuild kit for a cast iron horizontal 4 bolt or three bolt carb and she can do the rest. Cheers! Zip~
ZippoVarga
Thanks Zippo, I will call her after the holiday. The local parts stores can't help me because I have no numbers. Have a great holiday!
KenI
If it's the same carb, your kit part number is (2)299720 or any variation of replacement kit currently available. There are literally millions of these engines in circulation, so all Brenda really needs to know is if it is a carb that has 3 or 4 screws holding the fuel bowl to the top of the carburetor body. Note: some parts will not be needed for the rebuild. Just match up what has the same visual appearance and you should be good to go. Cheers!! Zip~
where did u get the jet kit?
good
@ZippoVarga Thanks Zip on seeing that the main jet had to be taken out before the lower half could be taken off. I am pretty good at mechanics and engines, but if I had tried to take carb apart without first knowing that the main jet should be taken out first, Well lets just say it would have came off one way or the other ..lol I didn't get the Nickname "Tackhammer" for nothing.Which means "If I cain't fix it, I'll tear it up!!! Have a cast iron 16hp Briggs running a 7 1/2 hp Air Comp.
Thanks
zip, hope u can help, just inherited this b1 tractor,has the same carb as your rebuild part 1,i have no numbers to identfy anything with, could i get your kit number and where to get it from,thanx if u can help, bob
what was the part # on that kit I'm working on the same carb
Take the engine numbers and go to the Briggs & Stratton web sight. There, you can enter your numbers and retrieve your IPL (Individual Parts List) which will have your carburetor rebuild kit numbers within. Zip~
ZippoVarga how do I replace the welch plug
I fix my leaking carb using Blue monster thread tape at the high idle screw (not the emulsion screw) but the needle that comes after, I also had to put some of this tape on the bottom screws cause my carb is a 2 pieces carb. Hope can help somebody
Hi Rob.....The engine, if original, is a model 19 Briggs and there should be an ID plate rivited to the front (Crank shaft end) of the sheet metal. Your rebuild kit is a universal kit for all the flow jet carbs and if you put this number "310603652478" in the search area on eBay, it'll come up for you. There ARE extra parts to cover slight differences as requested by those who contracted Briggs who may have wanted something slight different than stock. Only use what matches your carb. Cheers!!
@ZippoVarga i'll make a video and show u what its doing
how do you adjust the float
+Taylor Vanconant Gently bend the brass tab that rides on the shot off needle until the float is level when you set the base on a flat surface.
Thanks
@bcarbaugh 291763