I just bought a 1973 3kw generator powered by a 7hp B&S for $20. I was told it needed a coil (and it did) so last night I put the new modern coil on it and removed to points. It fired up on the first test pull with some starter fluid sprayed in it. Gas tank was dry, so put some gas in it and flushed out the line to the carb. I could not get it to run except on starter fluid, so it is carb clean time. Watching your clear instructions and tips has been extremely helpful. Thank you for you videos. I would have pulled the 3 screws WITHOUT knowing to remove the main jet tube first. I have never rebuilt an updraft carb, just pulsaprime and standard Tecumseh carbs. I really appreciate your instructions. Thanks again.
thank you my son said he would fix a tiller for me but he never did I watched all 3 of your videos and now I have the info to do it myself. very very well done
Excellent videos for this carb. I just got one of these to replace an old one. I had no idea where to start my adjustments at and you answered all of my questions. Tomorrow after work we will see if I retained what i watched. Thanks so much for the videos.
Thank you for your vids on horizontal briggs. I have been able to diagnois, repair, install and properly adjust many carbs after having learned from your vids.
Thank you Zippo. I have been messing with one of these old flojet carburetors. It has been very aggravating. Your videos are very helpful. I hope to get it running good after the holidays.
Hey Zippo try using a 20lbs sledgehammer when you tap that carb float, it works like a charm !!! And instead of striking up, try downward strokes. Give it a good decent swing, that carb will never give you anymore beef for sure !!!
Thanks for this video! I'm over here in Sweden adjusting my 8hp Briggs Gilson tiller I bought for a song. It had no idle. Got it running! It wouldn't rev unless you held the throttle open manually or adjusted the idle speed screw a lot like the previous owner did ;). It was the governor that needs adjustment.
@izogthedestroyer Use the gasket which aligns with the vent hole. There were new and old variations of this carburetor which is why you were given two gaskets with the kit. The older carbs didn't have the vent. Thanks for stopping by my Videos!!
Thanks Wolf! Some carbs are easier than others to rebuild. This one had some serious oxidation in the threads of the main jet and it was a real bear to get the old one out.
@thegenrl With a new air filter, the setting shouldn't change much if at all. With replacement of the original used filter, you may have to make further adjustments. If you have to make a large adjustment after replacing the air filter, then you might replace the old with new. The foam element filters can be cleaned with soapy water, dried, then re-oiled. The paper elements should just be replaced. Hope this helps with your question. Cheers!
There are more Carburetor related videos on my channel that cover things not covered in the rebuild series. Check them out when you've got a spare minute and welcome to the channel! Cheers!! Zip~
Hey 350! That 9hp saw very little use over it's life. I just wish it didn't have that damn tapered shaft on it! I may have to change out the crank shaft so I can use it for more than a shelf queen! lol
Hey Zippo great video. I have an old 11hp briggs on my little wonder blower and was wonder if you could help me out. Its the 4 screw version and I wanted to know if you had a picture of how the throttle is hooked up, I don't think I am getting any gas to the carb. Thanks.
@unclemilty79 Main jet mixture is the culprit. Turn the screw in 1/2 turn and see if the problem stops. Continue adjusting the main jet to get the optimum power from the engine when under load. Idle should be 1100 or there abouts and your idle set screw will keep the low idle smooth. Let me know how you fair. Cheers!!
Thanks for the videos Zippo. Where do get your rebuild kits for your carbs? I just picked up a Simplicity 700 not sure if it’s a 59 or 60 yet. Appears to be a very complete machine with a tiller and front blade but missing the hood. Anyway I’d like to rebuild the carb but thought I’d pick your brain for your parts source recommendations. Really enjoy and appreciate your videos. Thank you, Gerald
Email me at the address in the description below the video with the engine model tag information and I'll send you a manual. Within you'll find the part numbers for the parts needed on the engine and carburetor. Then, you can simply search just the part number in Google for rebuild kits. I've got numerous videos on rebuilding these carburetors, so be sure to follow them and you should be all set. Cheers! Zip~
Briggs model ZZ, your carb looks very similar to mine. Disassembled carb 100% and cleaned every passage , Main jet, idle jet etc.. Will only run with the choke completely closed
A couple possibilities. Dirty gas tank or old fuel line. Or the carburetors main metering needle needs opened up to allow more fuel into the engine. Zip~
@1drivewasher lol...there have been many a time when a large sledge would have eliminated the need to keep tinkering with a stubborn engine. Thanks for stopping by!!
Super helpful. I truly enjoy your videos. I have a 16hp on an attic insulation blower. I t surges when under load, so I will check the governor, and also may boil the carb. Any suggestions on where to shop a carb gasket kit?
I got a lot of briggs parts carbs,gen/start 10 hp cast iron,etc. I'll store for a while, got forclosed on. if you got a wish list get it to me and make you a great deal,Jim
Thanks much for your generous offer James! I've currently got about 50ish engines at the ready in the cast iron department and another dozen or so ready in both flat head aluminum and OHV with tons of carbs, S/G's, regulators, coils etc. If I get stumped for a part, I know who to come to! Cheers!! Zip~
@mwaugh81 Can't run those pumps dry or they'll seize up when they get hot. Separate the engine from the pump, then try starting the engine again. Don't hook the pump back up until you're ready to put water to it. It's the water that keeps the pump cool and keeps it from locking up. See if that doesn't take care of it. Cheers!!
@mwaugh81 Also....pull the spark plug and put your finger over the hole and crank it over (keep the coil wire AWAY from the engine and your hand or you'll get a nice shock) If the engine sucks your thumb into the hole then tries to push it out, then then engine is still in one piece. If not, you blew the connecting rod.
Absolutely Alesha.....Just search Jacks Small Engines on line and shoot them an email letting them know you need an early up draft three bolt carburetor rebuild kit and they can help you. It's a universal rebuild kit, so you'll have extra gaskets and parts. Be sure to follow the dis-assembly process closely to prevent damage to the carb bodies. Your Engine, if original, should be a model 14. Let Jacks know this when contacting them. Cheers!!
I have a 1959 david bradley suburban riding tractor, i have the engine running but im horrible at carb work. watching ur videos on cast iron carb rebuilds I found that I need to rebuild the carb. my carb is identical to yours. I was wondering where did u get that rebuild kit, and can u help me get the right one?
I'd love to see a video where things aren't so perfect. You never had to adjust the Main Jet, so I have no idea what tells you it needs adjusting. I assume it's some sound, but what does "bad" sound like? -- Also, You were doing something with a screwdriver to something behind the muffler. What where you doing? How do you know whether to turn left or right? -- When it first started, I thought everything ran great, but you adjusted the idle screw, "adjusting it back." What was wrong with the way it was running? How did you know to adjust it "back"? -- Are we suppose to adjust Some things only after the engine warms up?
The procedure is as follows. Set both metering screws to 1 1/2 turns out from seated, start the engine, then turn in the idle (upper) screw until the engine starts to stutter and stammer, then back out 1/2 turn. Same procedure for the main jet metering screw, but you want to do this with the engine running at at least 1/2 throttle, which is in the neighborhood of 1,800 rpm. Keep watching the carburetor videos Big....nearly all of the information you will need will be in one of them. Thanks for stopping by again. Cheers! Zip~
I've Never EVER been able to get my engine to fire, not even pop once UNLESS I'm squirting starting fluid in the carb. I've adjusted the needles in both directions. I've watched your videos regarding this carburetor as well as some other people's videos. This engine HAD been working, but one day I noticed fuel dripping from the bottom. WHILE I was looking for where the drips were from, it stopped by itself and has never restarted in spite of having the carb off and on four times. I fixed the dripping problem long ago. WHICH screw should I MOST focus on for getting it to at least start?
@mrtomlowell I'm always glad to hear that I've helped out another. Thank you! It's why I do what I do! Sure.....the guys who make their living charging 80 bucks per shop hour don't much care for me, but I don't claim to want to please everyone...lol. Cheers!!
I have a B & S engine with a carb like the on in your video.. The engine doesn't have a throttle cable, just a type of nut that you set. Can you tell me how to set it?Ken
+Lynnette Cox. If it's a set RPM designed engine, then reference the manual that you can download for free on the Briggs and Stratton web sight using the numbers from your engine. Cheers! Zip~
+Denis Poulin Run the tube in and out a few times, blowing out the port with each time. With the last install, using the specialized screw driver I described, tighten it down as much as possible. But be sure you've made the screw driver to fit the slot exactly so it won't slip or damage the tube.
How do I ask you a question, have a 7 HP upflow on a Stone Mortar mixer, cleaned the fuel tank, replaced the fuel line, cleaned the carb, every thing, only runs with choke almost closed, when I take choke off, it stop's. HELP
Zippo - I just rebuilt a carb for a 16hp cast iron briggs and can't get the engine to run right. Would you mind taking a look at the video I posted for you?
+Denis Poulin install a fuel shut off and turn it off before you shut the engine down. To fix the problem, the main emulsion tube (commonly called main jet) isn't properly seated in the carb bowl. See the other two parts of this series for more info. Cheers! Zip~
Fuel delivery is the problem. Replace all the fuel line as well as clean out the carburetor. Inspect the inside of the gas tank for rust and sediment. Remove the main jet needle assembly and fuel line and blow about 15-20lbs of compressed air into the hole where the main jet needle goes, then through the fitting that the fuel line attaches to and reassemble. When you remove the main jet needle assembly, use a 7/16" wrench and remove the entire assembly and not just the jam nut and needle. This way, when you reassemble, you won't have to readjust the main jet. After performing these cleaning tasks, your problem should be resolved.
Es de 8 caballos de fuerza motor bridge de aquí en ecuador necesito hacerle a funcionar aquí no hay muchos repuestos de estos motores por favor si puedes ayudarme
I just bought a 1973 3kw generator powered by a 7hp B&S for $20. I was told it needed a coil (and it did) so last night I put the new modern coil on it and removed to points. It fired up on the first test pull with some starter fluid sprayed in it. Gas tank was dry, so put some gas in it and flushed out the line to the carb. I could not get it to run except on starter fluid, so it is carb clean time.
Watching your clear instructions and tips has been extremely helpful. Thank you for you videos. I would have pulled the 3 screws WITHOUT knowing to remove the main jet tube first. I have never rebuilt an updraft carb, just pulsaprime and standard Tecumseh carbs. I really appreciate your instructions. Thanks again.
I stripped out more main jets before making that screwdriver. It really is a jet saver. Thanks Charles!!
thank you my son said he would fix a tiller for me but he never did I watched all 3 of your videos and now I have the info to do it myself. very very well done
Your the best Zippo, thanks for the great videos!
Glad you enjoy them Kalib! Zip~
Excellent videos for this carb. I just got one of these to replace an old one. I had no idea where to start my adjustments at and you answered all of my questions. Tomorrow after work we will see if I retained what i watched. Thanks so much for the videos.
I'm about to Landlord with this motor, and I've watched about 15 of your videos now. Thanks for all the knowledge. -Kevin
Super helpful to me I'm going to resurrect an old B-10. I feel confident now that I've watched your channel. thanks!
Thank you for your vids on horizontal briggs. I have been able to diagnois, repair, install and properly adjust many carbs after having learned from your vids.
It's great to know that my videos help others! Thank You for the compliment!
Thank you Zippo. I have been messing with one of these old flojet carburetors. It has been very aggravating. Your videos are very helpful. I hope to get it running good after the holidays.
There are a number of related carburetor videos on my channel, covering all aspects of operation, tuning, rebuilding and governing. Best of luck! Zip~
Hey Zippo try using a 20lbs sledgehammer when you tap that carb float, it works like a charm !!! And instead of striking up, try downward strokes. Give it a good decent swing, that carb will never give you anymore beef for sure !!!
I like this series of carb videos. Quite helpful!! Thanks.
Love your videos Zippo very helpful
Thanks for this video! I'm over here in Sweden adjusting my 8hp Briggs Gilson tiller I bought for a song. It had no idle. Got it running! It wouldn't rev unless you held the throttle open manually or adjusted the idle speed screw a lot like the previous owner did ;). It was the governor that needs adjustment.
+Plexxarn Glad you got it up and running!!
@izogthedestroyer Use the gasket which aligns with the vent hole. There were new and old variations of this carburetor which is why you were given two gaskets with the kit. The older carbs didn't have the vent. Thanks for stopping by my Videos!!
Thanks Wolf! Some carbs are easier than others to rebuild. This one had some serious oxidation in the threads of the main jet and it was a real bear to get the old one out.
@thegenrl With a new air filter, the setting shouldn't change much if at all. With replacement of the original used filter, you may have to make further adjustments. If you have to make a large adjustment after replacing the air filter, then you might replace the old with new. The foam element filters can be cleaned with soapy water, dried, then re-oiled. The paper elements should just be replaced. Hope this helps with your question. Cheers!
Zippo! Nice video, very helpful! What a sweet motor.
Thanks for all the knowledge 🎉
This has been a very important series for me as I keep coming back to it each year...
It's one of my most popular series. Glad it helps when needed Burke!
Thanks for the help getting my carb in working order again.
Hey zippo, great vid..... Thumbs UP! That looks like one hell of an engine!
Great trilogy, now I am armed with more knowledge to get my old model 19 running...Thanks
There are more Carburetor related videos on my channel that cover things not covered in the rebuild series. Check them out when you've got a spare minute and welcome to the channel! Cheers!! Zip~
Thanks Edz! Not bad for sitting a couple years.
Hey 350! That 9hp saw very little use over it's life. I just wish it didn't have that damn tapered shaft on it! I may have to change out the crank shaft so I can use it for more than a shelf queen! lol
Hey Zippo great video. I have an old 11hp briggs on my little wonder blower and was wonder if you could help me out. Its the 4 screw version and I wanted to know if you had a picture of how the throttle is hooked up, I don't think I am getting any gas to the carb. Thanks.
@unclemilty79 Main jet mixture is the culprit. Turn the screw in 1/2 turn and see if the problem stops. Continue adjusting the main jet to get the optimum power from the engine when under load. Idle should be 1100 or there abouts and your idle set screw will keep the low idle smooth. Let me know how you fair. Cheers!!
Thanks for the videos Zippo. Where do get your rebuild kits for your carbs? I just picked up a Simplicity 700 not sure if it’s a 59 or 60 yet. Appears to be a very complete machine with a tiller and front blade but missing the hood. Anyway I’d like to rebuild the carb but thought I’d pick your brain for your parts source recommendations.
Really enjoy and appreciate your videos.
Thank you, Gerald
Email me at the address in the description below the video with the engine model tag information and I'll send you a manual. Within you'll find the part numbers for the parts needed on the engine and carburetor. Then, you can simply search just the part number in Google for rebuild kits. I've got numerous videos on rebuilding these carburetors, so be sure to follow them and you should be all set. Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga I’ll do that. I do greatly appreciate it. Thank you so much.
Great video's I am dissabled as well hard to find things I can do small engines is one!!!
Thanks
Ted
Briggs model ZZ, your carb looks very similar to mine. Disassembled carb 100% and cleaned every passage , Main jet, idle jet etc.. Will only run with the choke completely closed
A couple possibilities. Dirty gas tank or old fuel line. Or the carburetors main metering needle needs opened up to allow more fuel into the engine. Zip~
@1drivewasher lol...there have been many a time when a large sledge would have eliminated the need to keep tinkering with a stubborn engine. Thanks for stopping by!!
lol pretty kool ! very helpful info my carb runs good on full blast but on slow idle it back fires i have 2 mess with it a little more
Super helpful. I truly enjoy your videos. I have a 16hp on an attic insulation blower. I t surges when under load, so I will check the governor, and also may boil the carb. Any suggestions on where to shop a carb gasket kit?
Thanks for the share L Sterling!!
I got a lot of briggs parts carbs,gen/start 10 hp cast iron,etc. I'll store for a while, got forclosed on. if you got a wish list get it to me and make you a great deal,Jim
Thanks much for your generous offer James! I've currently got about 50ish engines at the ready in the cast iron department and another dozen or so ready in both flat head aluminum and OHV with tons of carbs, S/G's, regulators, coils etc. If I get stumped for a part, I know who to come to! Cheers!! Zip~
@mwaugh81 Can't run those pumps dry or they'll seize up when they get hot. Separate the engine from the pump, then try starting the engine again. Don't hook the pump back up until you're ready to put water to it. It's the water that keeps the pump cool and keeps it from locking up. See if that doesn't take care of it. Cheers!!
@mwaugh81 Also....pull the spark plug and put your finger over the hole and crank it over (keep the coil wire AWAY from the engine and your hand or you'll get a nice shock) If the engine sucks your thumb into the hole then tries to push it out, then then engine is still in one piece. If not, you blew the connecting rod.
Absolutely Alesha.....Just search Jacks Small Engines on line and shoot them an email letting them know you need an early up draft three bolt carburetor rebuild kit and they can help you. It's a universal rebuild kit, so you'll have extra gaskets and parts. Be sure to follow the dis-assembly process closely to prevent damage to the carb bodies. Your Engine, if original, should be a model 14. Let Jacks know this when contacting them. Cheers!!
Them old engines had syrup bucket sized pistons and a stroke as long as your arm. U couldn't wearem out even if u tried
Thank you for the answer I will try that
I have a 1959 david bradley suburban riding tractor, i have the engine running but im horrible at carb work. watching ur videos on cast iron carb rebuilds I found that I need to rebuild the carb. my carb is identical to yours. I was wondering where did u get that rebuild kit, and can u help me get the right one?
@restorerdude You bet! It's good to know they're appreciated. Thanks!
I'd love to see a video where things aren't so perfect. You never had to adjust the Main Jet, so I have no idea what tells you it needs adjusting. I assume it's some sound, but what does "bad" sound like? -- Also, You were doing something with a screwdriver to something behind the muffler. What where you doing? How do you know whether to turn left or right? -- When it first started, I thought everything ran great, but you adjusted the idle screw, "adjusting it back." What was wrong with the way it was running? How did you know to adjust it "back"? -- Are we suppose to adjust Some things only after the engine warms up?
The procedure is as follows. Set both metering screws to 1 1/2 turns out from seated, start the engine, then turn in the idle (upper) screw until the engine starts to stutter and stammer, then back out 1/2 turn. Same procedure for the main jet metering screw, but you want to do this with the engine running at at least 1/2 throttle, which is in the neighborhood of 1,800 rpm. Keep watching the carburetor videos Big....nearly all of the information you will need will be in one of them. Thanks for stopping by again. Cheers! Zip~
I've Never EVER been able to get my engine to fire, not even pop once UNLESS I'm squirting starting fluid in the carb. I've adjusted the needles in both directions. I've watched your videos regarding this carburetor as well as some other people's videos. This engine HAD been working, but one day I noticed fuel dripping from the bottom. WHILE I was looking for where the drips were from, it stopped by itself and has never restarted in spite of having the carb off and on four times. I fixed the dripping problem long ago. WHICH screw should I MOST focus on for getting it to at least start?
My starter is now dead ( I think ) from trying to start this. Where do you go to get parts?
@mrtomlowell I'm always glad to hear that I've helped out another. Thank you! It's why I do what I do! Sure.....the guys who make their living charging 80 bucks per shop hour don't much care for me, but I don't claim to want to please everyone...lol. Cheers!!
I have a B & S engine with a carb like the on in your video.. The engine doesn't have a throttle cable, just a type of nut that you set. Can you tell me how to set it?Ken
+Lynnette Cox. If it's a set RPM designed engine, then reference the manual that you can download for free on the Briggs and Stratton web sight using the numbers from your engine. Cheers! Zip~
Runs nice!
I redone my carburator and I changed the the high speed tube so you think if I take the tube off and put it back that will do the work
+Denis Poulin Run the tube in and out a few times, blowing out the port with each time. With the last install, using the specialized screw driver I described, tighten it down as much as possible. But be sure you've made the screw driver to fit the slot exactly so it won't slip or damage the tube.
How do I ask you a question, have a 7 HP upflow on a Stone Mortar mixer, cleaned the fuel tank, replaced the fuel line, cleaned the carb, every thing, only runs with choke almost closed, when I take choke off, it stop's. HELP
Good video, very helpful thanks
hay zippo great vids you know your shit man . i would like to know were to find a carb kit for a 1965 10 hp briggs ? thank you peace out
Glad it helps!!
Thanks MrWiggles!
thabls for the information
Zippo - I just rebuilt a carb for a 16hp cast iron briggs and can't get the engine to run right. Would you mind taking a look at the video I posted for you?
Zippo,I sent you message on FB about the spring that slides on the throttle linkage. I need some help buddy
I picked up a model 19 briggs and stratton
Good engines. It's either a 7hp or a 7.25hp. Zip~
Thanks!!
Hello I have a fuel leak at the bottom bolt under the carburator when the engine is stop
+Denis Poulin install a fuel shut off and turn it off before you shut the engine down. To fix the problem, the main emulsion tube (commonly called main jet) isn't properly seated in the carb bowl. See the other two parts of this series for more info. Cheers! Zip~
hi i have 65 land lord 9hp and it will die every so often but if i turn choke on then off it will save it from dien any ideas
Fuel delivery is the problem. Replace all the fuel line as well as clean out the carburetor. Inspect the inside of the gas tank for rust and sediment. Remove the main jet needle assembly and fuel line and blow about 15-20lbs of compressed air into the hole where the main jet needle goes, then through the fitting that the fuel line attaches to and reassemble. When you remove the main jet needle assembly, use a 7/16" wrench and remove the entire assembly and not just the jam nut and needle. This way, when you reassemble, you won't have to readjust the main jet. After performing these cleaning tasks, your problem should be resolved.
haha. Nice brain fart. I do that allll the time.
NIce how too. Definatly gonna make myself a carb screwdriver. Take care Sean!
Saudações do Brasil
Greetings from America!
Buen día amigo cómo puedo contactarme para poder que me ayudes hacer funcionar este motor
No Sweat Bro!
any time kid.
Aquí en ecuador no hay ni un solo repuesto de este tipo de
Es de 8 caballos de fuerza motor bridge de aquí en ecuador necesito hacerle a funcionar aquí no hay muchos repuestos de estos motores por favor si puedes ayudarme