I have 2 of the cast iron engines the governor lever with all the holes is for speed control the middle hole is recommended to at 2800rpms they are not to run no higher if made forthat high the info is the older BnS manual if set rite they will with no governor control it ruin itseft . A NOTHERthing the ones with the 4inch cast iron intakes they will frost overwhen running sometimes adjust the carb if dont help i had a16hp BnS iput heat sheets coming from motor heat to the cast iron in take depending the hp can rebuilt to any size it can be from a 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 and 16 with some engine and they very versatile they hold for a long time i like them better the aluminum ones .
I have an 8hp B&S on my 1971 Wheel Horse. I cleaned and adjusted the carb. It isles fine. It surges when It’s throttled wide open. Any ideas? Thank you
Have briggs 16hp carb like you show here engine surges .tried gov. adjust per briggs engine manual still surges and either overspeeds or no high speed?
Most generally, there is a breech in a gasket that causes the surging. The only other possibility is a scorn cylinder wall which you can easily check by taking the head off and inspecting the bore. To troubleshoot the surging, get a can of either brake cleaner or carb cleaner and spray around the carburetor and intake elbow while the engine is running. If you hear a change in the RPM's, then address where the engine reacts i.e. Intake to Engine Block Gasket, Intake to Carb Gasket or top to bottom parts of the carb. Keep me apprised of your progress and if you still have the problem, let me know. Another thought just came to me. First, try adjusting the main emulsion metering screw lower left screw on the carburetor, BUT...very small adjustments of the needle and give the engine a few seconds to react to the change. If you can't remedy the surging at that point, then refer to the earlier suggestions. Best of luck to you George! Zip~
Somehow the nut on my governor arm came off and now the linkage is inside the engine .Do you have any recommendations on how to fix this? Before I split the block?
If the governor arm is all the way in the block (check with a flashlight), then the block needs separated to retrieve and reinstall it. But...if, when you look into the governor arm hole, it's not all the way in, try to use a shop vacuum to suck it back out, or pressurize the crank case (blow compressed air through the oil check) to blow it back out so you can reattach the governor arm. Good luck Phillip! Zip~
They're for adjusting the amount of governing desired in any given application. Some times less governing is needed, sometimes more. For the most part, leave the settings alone because it will effect the top engine RPM in some instances and you can damage your engine. Cheers! Zip~
thanks for reply i picked up this used 2014 Craftsman snow shredder , seems running too high ??? check out my video of "2014 craftsman snow shredder rebuild " ran it for 1/2 hr now seems to have rod knock ??? going to tear down again . Original owner ran with no OIL !!!, engine seized . i reused the OLD ROD , may need new ROD NOW ? i did not tamper with the Governor Arm hole setting
When an engine seizes due to being ran with no oil, a lot of the engine specifications usually go way out of spec, like connecting rod end play clearance, connecting rod journal and crank journal clearance, crank end play clearance, crank bearing specs, valve to tappet clearances due to over heating, cam lobe specifications become compromised, tappet to cam surfaces often become damaged, valve guides are scored from over heating and consequently valve stems as well, then valve seats run the risk of coming loose due to the heat cycles created when running the engine without oil. The list goes on and on Joni. When you encounter something like this, it more often than not requires a professional with all of the specifications at hand to correct the damage caused and typically, it's so cost prohibitive that it makes much more sense to purchase a replacement engine. Re-grinding all of the components I mentioned just ont he crank can cost you as much as $250, then factor in the cost of replacement bearings for the crank that fit the newly sized crank bearing surfaces, similarly the connecting rod will need replaced AND correctly ground to match the connecting rod journal on the crank shaft. Cylinder boring, honing and a new over sized piston. More often than not, the head becomes warped, so it would need decked, which increases your compression ratio (less CC's with the engine at TDC) and can result in premature starter failure due to the increased compression, so a heavier built Starter is then needed....it's a snow ball effect. Zip~
No, they're not. The technical publications are typically reserved for Briggs Certified Technicians. Once the engines reach a certain age, the publications often become public knowledge through the Technicians selling or posting the publications or they're found at auction etc. Searching on line for Technical Publications will yield some very good information if you're diligent in your search. Zip~
Where are the other videos of this 4 part series? Is it on a playlist?
Your close ups are great.
Bruce
So B/S engineer never stop create better ,easier, Thank you.
Do you know if the two governor springs are still available to buy? If yes part numbers please. Thank you
Hey Zip, can you show how to set the Governor on the motor you have in this video, Part 4, of the series??
I have 2 of the cast iron engines the governor lever with all the holes is for speed control the middle hole is recommended to at 2800rpms they are not to run no higher if made forthat high the info is the older BnS manual if set rite they will with no governor control it ruin itseft . A NOTHERthing the ones with the 4inch cast iron intakes they will frost overwhen running sometimes adjust the carb if dont help i had a16hp BnS iput heat sheets coming from motor heat to the cast iron in take depending the hp can rebuilt to any size it can be from a 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 and 16 with some engine and they very versatile they hold for a long time i like them better the aluminum ones .
I have an 8hp B&S on my 1971 Wheel Horse. I cleaned and adjusted the carb. It isles fine. It surges when It’s throttled wide open. Any ideas? Thank you
I need the part numbers of those 2 springs if at all possible please
Have briggs 16hp carb like you show here engine surges .tried gov. adjust per briggs engine manual still surges and either overspeeds or no high speed?
Most generally, there is a breech in a gasket that causes the surging. The only other possibility is a scorn cylinder wall which you can easily check by taking the head off and inspecting the bore. To troubleshoot the surging, get a can of either brake cleaner or carb cleaner and spray around the carburetor and intake elbow while the engine is running. If you hear a change in the RPM's, then address where the engine reacts i.e. Intake to Engine Block Gasket, Intake to Carb Gasket or top to bottom parts of the carb. Keep me apprised of your progress and if you still have the problem, let me know. Another thought just came to me. First, try adjusting the main emulsion metering screw lower left screw on the carburetor, BUT...very small adjustments of the needle and give the engine a few seconds to react to the change. If you can't remedy the surging at that point, then refer to the earlier suggestions. Best of luck to you George! Zip~
I have the same setup and my throttle stays WIDE OPEN. Any suggestions? Tractor is currently not running.
Did you replace the carburetor with one of the cheap Amazon knock off carbs?
Somehow the nut on my governor arm came off and now the linkage is inside the engine .Do you have any recommendations on how to fix this? Before I split the block?
If the governor arm is all the way in the block (check with a flashlight), then the block needs separated to retrieve and reinstall it. But...if, when you look into the governor arm hole, it's not all the way in, try to use a shop vacuum to suck it back out, or pressurize the crank case (blow compressed air through the oil check) to blow it back out so you can reattach the governor arm. Good luck Phillip! Zip~
Thank you
What is the link to the "Low speed idle adjustment video? Been looking and cant find it ny title
Just search carb set up Garry. Zip~
Hreat job btw. How do I send you a pic?
Zippo
how about the different hole positions on the arm ???
They're for adjusting the amount of governing desired in any given application. Some times less governing is needed, sometimes more. For the most part, leave the settings alone because it will effect the top engine RPM in some instances and you can damage your engine. Cheers! Zip~
thanks for reply
i picked up this used 2014 Craftsman snow shredder , seems running too high ???
check out my video of "2014 craftsman snow shredder rebuild "
ran it for 1/2 hr now seems to have rod knock ???
going to tear down again .
Original owner ran with no OIL !!!, engine seized . i reused the OLD ROD , may need new ROD NOW ?
i did not tamper with the Governor Arm hole setting
When an engine seizes due to being ran with no oil, a lot of the engine specifications usually go way out of spec, like connecting rod end play clearance, connecting rod journal and crank journal clearance, crank end play clearance, crank bearing specs, valve to tappet clearances due to over heating, cam lobe specifications become compromised, tappet to cam surfaces often become damaged, valve guides are scored from over heating and consequently valve stems as well, then valve seats run the risk of coming loose due to the heat cycles created when running the engine without oil. The list goes on and on Joni. When you encounter something like this, it more often than not requires a professional with all of the specifications at hand to correct the damage caused and typically, it's so cost prohibitive that it makes much more sense to purchase a replacement engine. Re-grinding all of the components I mentioned just ont he crank can cost you as much as $250, then factor in the cost of replacement bearings for the crank that fit the newly sized crank bearing surfaces, similarly the connecting rod will need replaced AND correctly ground to match the connecting rod journal on the crank shaft. Cylinder boring, honing and a new over sized piston. More often than not, the head becomes warped, so it would need decked, which increases your compression ratio (less CC's with the engine at TDC) and can result in premature starter failure due to the increased compression, so a heavier built Starter is then needed....it's a snow ball effect. Zip~
looks like the briggs snow engines have no ball bearing crank rated for 250 hrs
disposable , yup the connecting rod lots of play
Briggs web side not too Good in explaining there Engines ??????????
No, they're not. The technical publications are typically reserved for Briggs Certified Technicians. Once the engines reach a certain age, the publications often become public knowledge through the Technicians selling or posting the publications or they're found at auction etc. Searching on line for Technical Publications will yield some very good information if you're diligent in your search. Zip~