How to adjust a Briggs and Stratton One Piece Flow Jet Carburetor
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- In Depth video on adjusting the carburetor found on older model Briggs and Stratton engines. I show various examples and tips on how to tune a carburetor to get a good running engine. Thanks for watching!!!
![Carburetor Replacement - 10hp Briggs & Stratton [PART 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BFUvivy1bIs/mqdefault.jpg)
I must have seen a half dozen of these videos, and yours is by far the best. I especially like the way you explained in both lecture and print what to look for when doing what adjustments. very well done thank you.
I inherited an old Ariens YT1138 from my late stepdad who had inherited it from my grandfather about a decade ago. It sat unused for about 3 years and this video is just what I needed. The mower used to run great but had all kinds of starting, running and mowing issues. Thanks for putting this info out there for us younger folks to learn a thing or two.
Just picked up a lawn tractor with this style of carb/ engine and I couldn't see an info plate on it. Very glad to have found this video and information.
This was great! My 25 year old Snapper lawn tractor has a 14.5 Briggs & Stratton Engine and one of those anti-backfire solenoids in the bottom of the carb, which is supposed to prevent backfiring when you cut the engine off, and I've never had to take it to a repair shop. A couple of years ago it started running all-out or not at all. I tried to cure the problem by putting on a new, replacement Chinesium carburetor, which melted the electric connection at the carb anti-backfire solenoid. Neither the Snapper nor the Briggs and Stratton manuals tell you how to deal with carburetor problems. It is still very hard to adjust; when it's running, it was setting speed records when you cut it on, apparently due to an incorrectly connected spring to the governor, until you engaged the blade in high grass and then it was almost normal, and you could slow the engine down with the throttle control, but this year it's worse.
It sat up without being run for a year or so, after the blade drive belt on the 38" deck dropped below the right hand belt guard and got all tangled up with the belt brake at that guard while being wedged under the pulley by the belt guard - I finally decided to fix these problems this weekend - you have to remove the guard and the belt brake to re-set the belt on the pulley, etc. I also learned years ago to only use belts marked as being made for Snapper (usually by Briggs and Stratton), because other belts of the same length are too thick to work correctly on a Snapper deck.
I watched your video on the correct way to connect the governor spring, and followed your instructions on screen while I did it. The choke and the governor mechanism now seem to activate when the choke responds to the throttle input (i.e. max throttle) on my engine to get it started, but the governor doesn't seem to actually do anything to control engine speed. The anti-backfire solenoid burned up shortly after I replaced the carb, so there is no longer any electrical connection to the anti-backfire valve at the bottom of the carburetor bowl. When taking it apart this weekend to use standard automotive spray cleaner (i.e.BrakeKleen)on all of the internal carburetor openings for fuel and air, I noticed that there were 2 thin washers between the anti-backfire valve and the bottom of the carb. While I was messing around with it over the weekend, I lost one of the thin washers and substituted a thicker washer for the thin one I lost; now it seems that the slightly thicker second washer is allowing float bowl to overfill, because the spacing increase from the thicker washer may be preventing the needle valve from completely closing; it now seems to never cut off the incoming gas, which drips everywhere as long as the in-line gas valve is open.
Is it possible to put in a pre-anti-backfire-solenoid needle valve, or buy such a carburetor from Briggs & Stratton,and if so where would you get either one, and using what part numbers, or is there a simpler way of fixing it involving a thin rubber washer as a seal and spacer to allow the needle valve to cut off gas flow when the bowl is full, and to keep gas from leaking out of the screw-in connection between the bottom of the bowl on the carb, because the metal-to-metal seal between the solenoid and the bottom of the bowl is not leak-proof and cannot prevent leaks if the in-line valve is open, regardless of whether or not the motor is running?
Sorry this comment and my questions are so long, but you certainly seem to know exactly what you're doing with these mowers, particularly the ones with B&S motors similar to the 14.5 HP one powering my lawn tractor. If you need more exact information, the Snapper model is Snapper mower MODEL NO. 84239 - LT145H38DBV, 38" 14.5 HP Hydro Drive Tractor Series D 38" Cutting Deck (possible alternate model is 84270). I use the mulching blade, for what it's worth. It is generally referred to simply as the Snapper LT145H38DBV, and I bought it new from a friend, when he was a Snapper dealer, and we lived in the same town, but I moved away, and I don't see him as much as I used to, and he has changed occupations.
Thanks again for a great video.
You're awsome !
You just gave me a full lesson on how to adjust my White's lawn tractor, Briggs 12 HP's carburator !
Fully detailed and clear !
HUGE THANKS !
haha appreciate that! Your welcome, always glad to help out, thanks for watching!!!
Thank you so much for posting this video. You have helped me keep my 1987 Wards lawn tractor with 12hp Briggs Intek going for the past 7 or so years and saved me $100's. Carb needs adjusting every season so here I am again.
Your welcome, glad to help out! I hear ya! I have 3 old mont. ward mowers that I use. Thanks for Watching!!!
I just had to let you know that you were right about the float..I took it out and it was full of gas..thank you.. maybe this will help others with the same problem..It makes me think how many folks just threw there lawn tractors away because of something simple like this.."I ALMOST DID" THANKS for all you did for me..This world needs more guys like you.. thank you.
i got her running with your help ran good for a few days and now its leaking massive amounts of fuel out of the tube breather the float doest seem stuck rebuilt the carb and it start great after i watched your video on how rebuild the starter im starting work on small motors you have taught me alot
the float is dented, could be a crack in it...great idea to check it..I will get it fixed.. people like you is what America used to be. friends helping friends.. I would love to shake you hand. im sure many others would also..i have learned so much from your videos. thank you once again ..Gary in South Carolina..
THIS VIDEO ROCKS!!!! I just bought a craftsman mower that sat for 12 years. The gas looked like canola oil in the tank and carb. I was able to tune this engine in 4 minutes to get it running like new thanks to your video! GREAT JOB and BIG THANKS!!! You saved me a trip to the dealer.
Still helping people with this one bro. Thanks so much. Redoing an old JD 66 for a guy and this is my first time with one of these older model carbs..I like it. Seems like if i can get it adjusted right this little fuel sucker will flat get it. Thanks for the vid!!
Thanks for the refresher course, it's been a long time since I've messed with one of these.
Your welcome! I hear ya! They are great carbs but can be picky, Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks, this was the most informative carb adjustment video.
It should either be on the flywheel cover above the spark plug, or on either side of the flywheel cover, some will have a plate close to the flywheel. Sometimes they are very hard to read if the shroud has been painted or is rusty. thanks for watching!!! If its a 11 horse the model number should start with 25. (25 cubic inch engine) thanks for watching!!!
This is one of the better videos that explains carb tubing basics that anyone should be able to do with help of theirs video. 👍
Thank you so much for making this video, I've watched it many times over the past 3 or more years, You're dead on with all the info for this type carb. I only use the mower maybe 5 times a year and the carb always has to be messed with but I don't use it enough to make me remember the important stuff. You've really saved me cash, time and frustration so Thank You!
Your welcome! I hear ya, glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9 ?
Exact carb I have on my old tractor, and this helped me get it running smooth again, thanks so much!! I was having a hard time identifying which adjustment was which to correct the issues I was having. All good now!
Great video as always, I have learned so much from your videos. I don’t even bother googling for info about my B&S engines anymore, I just go straight to your channel.
haha yeah they can be a pain sometimes! I have one that will not adjust in for nothing, i've even rebuilt it twice, cleaned it at least 5 times haha the one in this video is acting like a clogged jet in it now. I don't know why, it hasn't been run much since i made this video. Thanks for Watching!!!
This is exactly what I needed. ThNk you so much. I have never seen this demonstrated so well. Great video Sir!!!
Your welcome, glad to help out, Thanks for Watching!!!
I really love this 'old school' tuning. Thanks for your time!!
Your welcome, glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
Real great video! I am rebuilding an old tractor mower from 1992, and really needed some help for carb settings!!!
Thanks! Yeah i try to make videos on the older engines, like you say there isn't much on these older carburetors/engines anymore. I do kind of agree with that, it can be very hard to get a good solder on one, haha i've heard of that happening before, I usually let them set for a while before soldering so whats in it will evaporate. thanks for watching!!!
I have a serious problem with hunting on these classical one-piece flojet´s.I have tried; new gov linkage, gov readjust, compressed air (carb cleaner)in all jets, still hunting like mad. Very nice and informative video!
It is possible to have a problem with the internal governor parts (oil slinger) but its unusual. Also it could be valve related, if the valves aren't sealing they act like that sometimes. or even if it has weak spark they can do that. Hope this helps! Thanks for Watching!!!
thanks! hope to have a bunch of short how to videos by this time next month. thanks for watching!!!
around the shaft until it starts working its way off, then when you put it back on, put oil or STP on the shaft so it goes on easy. thanks for watching!!!
sounds like the float level may not be set right (float set to high and letting the gas level rise higher) and its pulling gas out of the vents, i have 2 other videos (one older and one recent) on rebuild/cleaning these carburetors and i talk about setting the float level in both of them, i'd check that first, also the float could be sticking making it overflow and flood. hope this helps, Thanks for Watching!!!
Hey,your video really help me with Briggs on a older John Deere,Thanks a lot!
Thank you, been going at my free john deere 111 for half the day.. Back at it again tomorrow. 👍👍👍👍👍
Perfect timing, reworking a 1983 john deere mower model 68. Great video. Thank you
I hear ya! Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
I hear ya! glad my video helped out! The part your referring to is called a welch plug, the only time you need to take it out is if you need to get into the throttle or choke plates, like to replace them or to clean if they are corroded, to be honest i've never had to do it! And to reinstall them they have to be staked with small tacks. Very rare to have to anything with the welch plugs. I'll have to mention this in a video sometime. Thanks for Watching!!!
Glad to help out! Your welcome, thanks for watching!!!
Having similar troubles and found that the idle, throttle shaft was worn out. There are bushings for this shaft that can wear out and allow air to bypass. Your instructions were very well done! Thank you.
Can you give a part reference please cos I can't find a thing. Thank you in advance.
@@johncollins8304 best to take to your shop and show to get exact ones/ fit.
awesome video..picked up an old 12hp briggs riding mower cheap..thanks to your video its running fine now..thank you for sharing your time and knowledge!! it is very much appreciated..
+redhotyellaboi Thanks! I hear ya, thats what i like about this type of carburetor, so easy to get running. Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
great video, I have 4 engines running these carbs, I put kits in 2 of them as they had been out in the weather for yrs, the gas bowls were rusted off.I had to drill out the screw-nozzle inside the carb with a 5/16 drill and the run a 3/8 SAE tap to clean up the threads, I used a tiny bit of blue thread locker to screw the nozzle back in and seal it.. I repaired both carbs for about fifty bucks where as they are about $200.ea.
dave12546 Thanks! I hear ya, got to hate when that happens, i've never had to drill them out before but i've ran into some that were really stuck. Can't beat, saved a ton of money! Thanks for watching!!!
Are all Briggs threads SAE? I only have a metric tap and die set (in France) and need a set of appropriate sort to work on engine 11HP i/c and on Murray 11ic/36. If I get SAE set will that do the trjck? Thanks.
what a great video and an excellent teacjhing site for oher every day things for every day day people such as house or shop wiring or other common problems .it also has other things I may never use, but I find most interesting.Things are explained in an easy understandable, common sense and uncomplicated manner.Thank you very much for one of the best teaching sites on the web . RWY
Thanks for making this video! I got a free Simplicity with a flathead 8HP with this style carburetor. It would only run choked, I seen the top screw and kept adjusting it out until it was running better, I didn’t bother with the bottom screw.
Your welcome! I hear ya, sometimes thats all it needs. Thanks for Watching!!!
Was wondering why my 10hp briggs was surging and not idling very good. Cleaned carb then did 1 1/2 turns and had some black smoke. Got it after viewing your video. Very helpful thank you.. :-)
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
it could be set to rich or it could be a problem with the valves, you may need to do a valve job, as the compression stroke will force some air/gas back out through the carb if the valve isn't sealing right. If its pooling up inside the carburetor body when the motor isn't running then it is a stuck float or leaky needle valve. thanks for watching!!!
Great video! I couldnt find anything on tuning these carburetors, now i can tune mine. Thanks for the video!
Thanks! Glad to help out! Thanks for watching!!!
great job dude, I just got an old ford lawn mower, model LT11-g, great little toy glad to have it in the collection, your video was very helpful but most of all informative, you really know your engines this was so helpful, you should make tutorial videos and sell them lol thanks again!
Thanks! I have seen those, never had the chance to get one. haha I hear ya! Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you for the information on old engines fella. Good day.
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
i was pushing on where the throttle cable connects, i didn't have a throttle cable so i had to it that way to use the governor. On most engines its a square plastic piece, on these older ones its a metal tab. thanks for watching!
Cool video. Had a guy come in today with the same engine on his mower. Something seriously wrong with the carb. I tried starting out at 1 and 1/2 turns on both screws and working from there... Best I could do was fine tune it so it would run good for about 2 minutes then stutter and try to stall for about a minute then it would run great like a champ for another 2 minutes then decide it wasn't up for it and start stalling and stuttering again!
Thanks a million! I have a 1984 Ranch King that was running like garbage. I adjusted the carb as shown in your video and its all good now.
Thanks buddy that really help me tune my carburetor my machine runs great now
Your welcome, glad to help! thanks for watching!!!
Still thank you for the information , it seems to be the onlyest video about this carb :)
Great Video!! Great explanation! Helped me figure out which needle was what after rebuild. Thank You and keep up the great work!
+jjlem1snake20 Appreciate that! Your welcome! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you for this great educational video! Greetings from Poland!
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Great video. Made me subscribe. I'd like to see you do a complete restore on one of these 111's like my grandfather had. I've got 2 im working on now and it's super hard to find videos like this to help out. It is also incredibly hard to find these engines so if you just so happen to have one it is totally worth restoring.
Thanks for Watching!!!
yeah in comments or message on here thanks for watching!!!
I have an old Toro, i think it,s red and i had no idea how to adjust the carb or clean the bowl it keeps surging , so thank you for the informative lesson to adjust
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I have one of these and your video helped me adjust the carb. Keep up the good work.
Your welcome! They are great carbs, probably the best briggs ever used. Glad to help out, thanks for watching!!!
glad to help out! thanks for watching!
Great video. I just got a Springfield that some one put a Briggs on it with this flow jet on it. And it deff needs work.
Great video mate! Perfect way to explain how it all works, good job!
Thanks! I figured a example of each situation would help more then just talking about it. Thanks for Watching!!!
glad to help out! they can be a pain sometimes!!! thanks for watching!!!
I have the same motor on a roper rally.. Thank you for this tutorial buddy.
Your welcome, Thanks For Watching!
precisely what I needed to know, thanks!
just what i was looking for. Thanks from Norway.
Glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
excellent informative video. great info re carbs generally. keep up the good work!!!!! love your practical knowhow....
Thanks! Glad to help out, Thanks for Watching!!!
Another awesome video. I'm going to go tune mine in right now!
Awesome video. Very helpful!
I'm going to research this compression release thing, as I keep seeing it mentioned. I don't know that is the case here however as compression was 90psi when I had oil squirted in through spark hole(so bad rings/cylinder seal). Not worried about it though 65 should be good enough. First thing tomorrow I'm popping that flywheel off. I am glad I have a lead now, thank you. I think this mystery is solved, I will let you know how it turns out.
not really, but i recommend adjusting it to get it idling good then work on the high side, if its way out of adjustment, screw them both in (not forcing) then screw out 1.5 turns then go from, got to play it by ear. Take some sand paper, like a 120 grit, run it around the the shaft right before the cover, this gets any rust or dirt off of it, (first thing is to remove clutch or pulley then do this) then spray some wd40 or better PB blaster right before the cover, then just start wiggling it...
This video is a big help. I have exact carb on a Simplicity 4211 from 1983. I’m trying to tweak like you suggest. Thanks!
Your welcome! Glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
all of your vids have been a great help so far! thanks!
Appreciate that, glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
haha yeah it would be. you don't really have to memorize everything i say/typed on the video, after you adjust one carb, you will get the feel of it and it becomes 2nd nature, and if you can't adjust it out, no matter what you do, it needs rebuilt, should of said that in the video, oh well haha thanks for watching!!!
I think your on to it with the float. That sounds about right.
I checked the fuel line to carb and it's good. I had carb apart and float sits level with carb when needle closed, which I thought was correct. I could try adjusting the brass tang on float so it doesn't close until slightly higher up.
yeah. there is quite a bit of aluminum in one. i usually get mine before the junkyard gets them, i have a friend that hauls junk in all the time and i usually get them off of him, this engine in this video was one of them haha
Thank you very much for this excellent explanation!
I love those one piece carbs, very easy to work on. I rebuilt one of those last week
Carl's Small Engine Repair I agree with you, they are very easy to work on. I don't care much for the newer 2 piece carbs, not as much adjustment on them. Thanks for Watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9 yeah I know I got one of the two piece carbs on my 12.5 hp briggs im rebuilding. Not a big fan of em either. And your welcome, check out my Channel and see what you think. I'm just getting started doing small engine repair, I've been doing it about 3 years.
They are not nearly as good as the old ones. I watched a couple of your videos, your doing pretty good, its fun making videos! If you have any questions feel free to leave a comment on any of my videos.
fnaguitarplayer9 thank you
Carl's Small Engine Repair your welcome
I just rebuild a 12 hp briggs carb. the murray riding tractor is around 25 years old and the engine runs good.it sat up for ten years because I got a john deere. when I tried to bring it back to life, gas filled the carb and muffler. I knew nothing about how to set the screws after the carb rebuild. your video has helped me understand the settings. thank you so very much for taking time to help us that don't know everything..In the rebuild kit there is a round disk,WHEN DO YOU REPLACE THIS PART
that is correct, it might just be a clogged jet, but check to make sure the float is working freely. I'd say adjust the float just a hair and give it a really good cleaning and go from there.
Nice video! Content editing, graphics & audio superb.
+Craig A. Smith Appreciate that! I put alot of time/work into these videos! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks so much for this video! I'm a computer guy trying to get my 11hp briggs to run. It has a problem running at more than an idle and you can forget about running the blades. Everyone pointed to the carberator. So I've got it off and it was really dirty so I'm cleaning it with gas and carb cleaner. I hope I get it back on and will use ur video for reference as it is superb.
***** Your welcome. I hear ya, that should help it, and it may also need adjusting as well. Glad to help out, Thanks for Watching!!!
Great tutorial amigo. Thanks for your knowledge!
Awesome vid..just the info i've been searching for...thanks
Thanks! There isn't to much on youtube about adjusting these carbs, so i figured i'd make a video on it. Thanks for Watching!!!
Best video I seen in awhile
Appreciate that, Thanks For Watching!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 got a racing mower with flathead Briggs. Got any tips on getting a good proformance tune
@@JorgeVonVogler I'd suggest tuning it in like the video until it runs smooth idling and full throttle, but you may need to richen up the idle so it will take the throttle faster, since this type of carb doesn't have a accelerator pump, and you can still get cams for these and other parts, there getting harder to find but are still being made, also recommend billet connecting rod, billet dogbone or brass counterweights and a billet flywheel. hope this helps
thanks. thats about what this engine is, i think it is a 78 or somewhere around there. can't remember for sure. but it is a 11 horse. no problem, thanks for watching!!!
Excellent video, very helpful.
Glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you...I have been working on my 92 snapper and I have been watching your videos. Wish you would do another on this carb and linkage the one I watched earlier I couldn't see choke linkage hook up
Your welcome! I do have another video that goes into details on the linkages. Thanks for Watching!!!
This is great info, thanks so much. From Australia.
Your welcome, glad to help out, Thanks for Watching!
Thank you, this helped me out a lot.
This is a great video, it will help me out loads with my 1980 11 horse Briggs, thanks!!
Oh wow, thats along time for one to be sitting! glad to hear my video helped out! Your welcome, thanks for watching!!!
Mine was sitting for almost six or seven years now. I resurrected it out of some sandy mud and somehow I've got all the blades to turn and the steering as well hopefully it can hold up a little longer A lot of grease and a lot of oil buddy
Being as it sat for that long the carburetor bowl had a huge chunk of rust in it and I guess there's a hole by where the main jet tube comes down I might plug it but it doesn't seem to be doing anything bad but if it doesn't tune properly I will plug it to see what happens before I buy a new carburetor
Exactly what I was looking for. This carburetor was giving me fits!!!
Thankyou very well explained and helped me alot
very true, I started to mention it but i always assume its a electronic ignition, but that probably is whats wrong if it is a older engine. thanks for watching!
its what i've always used, that or 10w-30, but synthetic is supposed to be better though. hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Thanx for the quick reply! Think I screwed up by taking the flywheel off first! by doing that it allows the Crank to travel in and out putting undo presshure on Connecting Rod & Rod Bearing! Think I will put Flywheel back on to stabalize Crank Shaft Travel! Thanks Again!
I hear ya! Your welcome, glad to help out! They can be confusing! Thanks for Watching!!!
I have an old Murray 10hp and the cats carb is way off. I will surely use your advice there. God bless you.
Thanks for taking the time to make a informative video.
yeah it does help, well my chart that i use says .003" to .005" for the intake, and .005" to .007" for the exhaust. I've used that and it seems to work, now i try to get it set to the low setting if possible, close to .003 and .005 as possible. .004 would work, but its supposed to be set a little looser on the exhaust because it gets so much hotter. If you PM your email address i'll send you the chart, it has all torque specs and tolerances if you want it, its a pdf file
yeah sounds like its either like i said the float isn't adjusted right, or a bad/clogged jet. nah I wasn't talking about the emulsion tube, but the float and needle valve, if it isn't working right letting enough gas into the bowl it will act like its running out of gas, then gas pours back in letting it run good for a little while again. but a bad fuel filter will do the same thing, check that first, just to rule that out, ya never know. its hard to say sometimes what it is.
haha yeah, sometimes it can be a pain! thanks! thanks for watching!!!
thanks! that sounds like the float/needle valve isn't working properly or the float needs adjusted. what it is, its not letting enough gas in to run longer, and its running out of gas, from not enough coming into the bowl, in other words like your turning a fuel valve on and off. OR it could be a bad fuel filter and/or line, not letting enough gas come into the carburetor. thanks for watching!
I have about the same mower as well! Can't beat them! I actually made a video talking about the linkage setup on these motors (all briggs riding mower engines are very similar, except for the bigger twin cylinders). I'll send you a PM with the video attached... thanks for watching!!!