I’m In the oil industry. The thinner oils are for fuel economy only. All of these energy saving oils will not meet European specs for sheer. I run Castrol Edge Euro 0w-40 in my 5.0. Gives solid cold flow and the 40 is on the lighter end of the spectrum and gives you plenty of protection at higher temps. The 5w-20 is a 20 at 212 degrees. If you are working a vehicle hard and the temps are over 212 you no longer have a 20w. I’d always recommend going up a weight. Won’t hurt the engine at all. The lighter oils on the cape and manuals are “recommended “ not “required” for vehicle operation.
I think you summed it up well. Regular cars can run 0w-20 all day long because it's never at sustained high load and cylinder temps. High performance forced induction cars, trucks and tractors tend to need the thicker oil to maintain the film and oil pressure. What tends to kill regular cars is simply neglect, not the oil itself.
Driving 100mph and more, over many hours on german autobahns on w20 during hot summer days? Not the best idea. It might work in the US but not in Europe, where people generaly drive faster on highways
I been running Mobil 1 5w30 for years in my 2003 cobra. I had a mechanic that builds mod motors tell me 20w wasn't thick enough. Makes sense with all the heat.
I have a 2016 Yukon XL and i dumped the 0/20 and changed it up to 0/40. I also changed the cap to that that says 0/40 ...with the original 0/20 cap I drilled a hole as big ss the inner diameter of the cap...right thru to be used as my leak proof oil funnel holder during oil changes. I also run 5/40 in my 2008 Nissan Pathfinder V8. CAFE wanted 5/20 in those. I also changed the cap with one that dont have any viscosity printing on them. (Intl spec nissan oil cap) I have never followed CAFE specs. Ive always followed EU oil reccomendations.the only CAFE i follow is the brewed kind. 😉
I agree with your also agree with RIGHTEOUS comment climate is something to consider, I live in Houston/Tx and here the summer is HOT so I do use 5w-30 (not 5w-20) if I was is a place that is really cool (below or at 0) I will go with thinner oil for sure, Also there are Engines that You need to follow the OEM Recommendation because the CHANNEL of the oil (the Lifters in this case and ) in some places of the engine is so small that a Thinner oil is needed for better lubrication an example is the DODGE Challenger with HEMI V8 engine. Thanks for your video.
Excellent illustration of how B.S. CAFE standards altered oil recommendations on these cars, even when the engine design never changed. Ever since i watched a FordTechMakuloco video where he mentioned he uses only synthetic 5W30 in all the 5.4 3V motors he works on i have never gone back to 5w20. I dont baby either of my cars so it gives me peace of mind to know my oil can handle the abuse.
When I had my 5.4 I always used 5w30 conventional or blend and I would top off constantly because it was burning oil somewhere and I would often top off with 10w30 conventional.
On my car, it says 0-20 on the oil cap. When i use that, the car burns oil. In the manual there are 3 options, 0-20, 0-30 and 5-30. Now i use 5-30 dexos1 gen2. No oil consumption, no problem.
Definitely answers my question, thank you! Question for anyone to answer... I have a 2009 Mazda CX-9 with 156K miles. I started losing power for pickup, and eventually was getting a metallic chugging sound when I turned corners. I took it three different auto shops and nobody could replicate the problem, or so they said. I kept asking if there were a problem with any of the fluids. All three said no each time. In the end, a fourth shop identified the problem... I only had one quart of oil left in the whole system! In my mind, oil is a fluid, but apparently I am wrong. But now I am worried about damage. It does seem I am burning oil, not leaking it. The good mechanic put 5 W 30, which is why I am here educating myself on the difference. Do any of you think I should go even higher?
No you shound't, if you need need thicker oil it means the some of the seal is not working properly, increasing oil velocity is just a temporary "fix". If you keep increasing the velocity you will end up with some where that thick oil can't "fix" the seal or the oil is too thick to run so it is breaking the engine.
Good video with good info, i have a 2012 corvette LS3 engine, I’ve always used Royal Purple 5W 20 after warranty expired. Haven’t noticed any difference with the 30 to 20 with my style of driving. I probably baby it more than I let it rip but I do go on 300 to 400 miles trips. MPG is still average 16 city/ 26-27 hwy. I don’t think it’s much of a big noticeable difference in regular driving, at least i haven’t and don’t expect to. Good maintenance and care really helps in whatever oils you decide. Again that’s just what I think if one is just regular driving.
I dun know why consumers cant tell that these manufacturers are out to scam you to help their gas mileage numbers. 0w20 ? really? why dont they just advise pouring water or methylated spirit as a lubricant.
It's always fun to hear and read what people say about oils. I would say that most people have at least some truth to what they say about the oils that they use. Me? I'm still just learning, so thank you to the other commenters.
Haha, I just changed my oil in my 2003 Ford SD 250 5.4l and forgot which weight of oil because it's sratched off the cap. I Googled and it said 5w-30, so I started to put it in and decided to check my manual to see the amount and it said 5w-20! I came here and to my relief it sounds like it's a better oil, plus it's summer too so it doesn't sound like a problem. Thanks for the info y'all.
I did a ton of research on this, I run 10w30 with mmo in my 2.4l jeep. Calls for 5w20. Great video love oil talk, everyone's got their own flavor and weight... catch can anyone?
I only use full synthetics when I change my oil, 5w30 or 10w30 in my out of warranty 2016 Turbo. In warranty Sportage has free lifetime oil changes, they use 5w20 Mobile 1 blend, in the winter under 68F I leave it alone, come summer I take a jug of full synthetics 10w30 to them and hope they actually use it. Why does no one who discusses viscosity ever refer to a viscosity chart? And I don't mean the one supplied in the owners manual that they can control.
Ima go with 5w-30 I live in AZ summer is right around the corner lol only weekends for the Stang now got a daily so I can let my Stang rest and finish FBOing it.
Great video, I have a 2012 GT with a 120,000 . Started its life from 32k with Royal Purple until 80k. Shop didnt carry anymore. So switched to Valvoline Max High Milage Synthetic. May burn a quart to a quart and a half between a 5k oil change. But remember this is still a 5w-20. Non modified motor, not one oil leak, spirited driving, daily driver. These gen 1 motors and Chevy LS motors are bullet proof. Its lost HP by mathematically engine years, however dosent feel like it. Wondering if I will even have to rebuild at 200k. Just FYI on high milage coyote motor .
Just my 2 cents. 150K Tahoe 2003 . I decided recently (last oil change) to try Restore. I must say, did help with compression! Not that I had lost much, a Tahoe LS . But it’s worth a shot. I never go over 4K an oil change either 👍
its not just about topping up the quart....the thinner oil by the fact that it burns off doesnt protect as well as a thick w40 or w50 oil which has more zinc.
your definitely right in running 5w30 I have a 2010 track pack GT and it says in the owner's manual 5w20 for fuel mileage but to run 5w30 for hard driving racing or track use so that right there says 5w30 won't hurt it not to mention who has a Mustang that don't run it hard. i would not go any thicker but supercharged definitely hard on the oil i would only trust #1 amsoil or #2 mobil 1 By the way wicked wicked Terminator cobra
My everyday driver is a 98' lexus gs400, live in South Florida, I've always run 5w30 as factory recommended, car drives great with almost $230k miles on odometer.
I run 5w-30 in my 2012 Raptor. 6.2L v8 that sees lots of hard desert off road miles. After 180k miles it runs like a dream and uses no oil between oil changes. Like you said, for normal daily driving 5w-20 would be ok. For hard driving 5W-30 is the better choice. 🙌🏼 im a master mechanic with 25 years of experience BTW
Seeking advice. Should I run my 22 VW GTI with 0W20 or go to 0W30 or even 40 instead? I live in Canada and I like to run my car hard when the conditions permit it (since it's still cold, icy, and snowy where I live). My concern is the recommended 0W/5W20 is too thin for a hot running EA888 2.0T engine. It also warms up real fast in cold climates compared to my 2013 Hyundai Veloster with 1.6 NA or 2003 Ford Focus 2.0 NA engine. It probably has to do with the electronic thermostat unlike the old school style of wax that needs to heat up on Veloster and Focus.
@@W0LV1E45 Since you live in a very cold place, but do push the engine hard Id use 0w-30. The 0w will provide easier starts and good protection and the 30 will work just fine under high load conditions. Thats my honest opinion.
@@jibrilthegreat35 my car manufacturer recommend 0w20 but I live in very hot climate 40 - 45C do I have to change viscosity I run my car between hard and normal it’s a Chevy spark 1.4L NA what’s your suggestion?
@@nawaffidah5018 in very warm weather Id not hesitate to use 5w-30. You will get slight less MPG but your engine will benefit from increased viscosity, which will protect your car in hot weather. 0w oil is ideal for places where the temperature drops very low, and lower viscosity is needed to allow for good oil flow at start up.
I have a 2014 Chrysler 300 with a 5.7 engine has about 80k and it sounds like a sewing machine under load. I was told to use 5w-20 but was wondering if using something different might help reduce the buzzing (sounds dry)
I agree. 5W-20 was fine for my 2002 Ranger V6 that never used much oil, but not for a supercharged V8. My 95 Toyota truck calls for 10W-30. I use 5W-30.
5w50 Amsoil Signature Series in my 2012 Shelby GT500. 5w30 Amsoil Signature Series in my 1996 Toyota Avalon 0w20 Amsoil Signature Series in my 2021 Jeep rubicon 3.6 v6 As of 4/23, I’ve switched from 0w20 to 0w30 Amsoil Signature Series in my 2021 Jeep rubicon. Night and day difference on start up. Super quiet with the 0w30 and less blow by caught in the catch can. Like over 1/2 the amount less from 0w20. My 2018 Raptor gets 5w30 Amsoil signature series and I and hardly tell the engine is running it’s so quiet and smooth.
09 Toyota Prado , book says 5w 30, but now using full synthetic 5w 40, much smoother than 30, and I live in a hot tropical climate in Asia where temps don't dip below 30C/88F, so a bit thicker oil makes more sense.
Thanks. This was the comment I was looking for. My Corolla says to use 0W-20 and I was looking for justification for my thoughts on using 0W-30. Now I got it :) p.s. Also leave in hot country where the annual temperatures are -10 to + 45 C
@@lonniebeal6032 That's the point. In west Africa the daytime temperatures can easily exceed 100°F on any given day. Using anything less than a 40 weight means the car ends up on the scrapheap far sooner than it should.
An article by a Lube magazine said 30W is optimal viscosity for an engine. Also they said Ford trucks in in North America use 20W, but in Europe, Ford trucks use 30W to comply with factory warranties.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage In some forum. Someone noted that Ford engineers tested 20W oils and found there was 30% increase in engine wear. I guess the white shirts said who cares we don't wanna pay for the CAFE fine, besides they can buy another Ford because they are diehard fans....
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage also some guy on UA-cam did used oil analysis of 5w30 vs 0w30 on his vehicle. Couldn't remember what vehicle. The 0w30 had more wear metals than the 5w30 oil. That was an eye opener. My guess is 0w is too thin to start running an engine under load from a cold engine. 5w is slightly thicker to give it some better protection when running a cold engine under load(like driving off after starting) I know everyone says 0w oil flows faster, but oils have anti wear additives in them already. So when you start the engine, the additives are preventing wear, then you need some cushioning for piston slap hence alittle thicker.
I’m in Massachusetts. Very cold and very hot. I have a 2020 civic si. It takes 0w20. I notice during the day the engine runs different comparing to when it’s chilly outside at night. Is it ok if I switch to 5w30. A lot of people told me to do that.
Was w/ U all tha way Broski, from when u snappd the bolt, till u extracted it!! So Fu*k evry Troll’n “Know-it-all” Kook’s negative comment u come across, bc they didnt knw how 2do it @sum point n their lives either. U learn by doing, sometimes mistakes r made, sometimes not, but nxt time U’ll b that much better @it..Glad u stuck n thru whole Vid, Proud of U🤙🏾
I've run 5w30 for the entire life of my 06 mustang gt, but i can't help but think we should all still be running 10w30 unless you live in the Northern most points of the globe.
I wanna run 5w30 in my 09 gt mustang i live in New Mexico where it’s hot I was wondering if the cam phasers need thinner oil like 5w 20 or if 5w 30 is fine
Def depends on bearing clearances and application for built engines… from what I know they go with more clearance,,,, and call for thicker oil. Valvoline VR1. To the the flow to cool bearings down
You'll know it's a good oil, when the worst motors are still going strong with the PUP, I too whatched the oil shootout video years ago, researched PUP, and guys in The subaru forums were sending thier oil out analysis after a change over to PUP , and had good results .
Mobile 1 user for years but many oil test on UA-cam that proves it isn't that good .even Wal-Mart and Amazon synthetic oils beat it..and amsoil , red line , shafers and a few others beat them all
My volvo xc70 2.4D needs normally 0w30 I use Kroon Helar 0w40. (Full synthetic) I live in Europa but drive few times a year to Siberië. My automatic transmission i use Kroon sp matic 4026 In my diff's and transfercase i use Kroon gearlube racing 75w140 ( full synthetic) because i drive continue with a 3000kg and a high trailer. In my haldex i use Kroon sp fluid 6033.
Thanks for the video. I bought a new Hyundai Elantra in 2018. I change the oil every 4k. I use a Mobil 1 filter and synthetic oil. Yah, I'm throwing my money away, I should go another 2k. Anyway. The oil cap says 5w20. The manual has 5w20 and 5w30 listed in the same temp range, and 10w30 when it's warmer...i have 56k on the car and have always used 5w20. Last oil change I changed over to 5w30. This will leave a little more film on the moving parts and add a little more protection when the engine is hot. Heat is what ultimately kills engines, unless it's a chrysler, then it's just junk. Sorry for adding that. I was so burned by them in the past I never got over it...
Look at your manual, that 5w20 is from our corrupt government wanting more mpg at the expense of your engine. And my past Dodges were great, but that was in the 80's and 90's. www.manualslib.com/manual/982725/Kia-Sportage.html?page=410#manual
what about in a 2014 mustang gt coyote with 52k miles? on the cap it says 5w20 and that's what i have ran the past 3 oil changes. the car isn't raced just a few pulls here and there.
I have heard that the first number in the oil viscosity rating is the viscosity number for the base oil. Additives allow the final product to function as a 30 weight oil (5W30) when the oil is hot. These additives break down over time with the result that the viscosity does not maintain the performance of the 30 weight oil when hot. So...if you wait too long to change your oil, you are really running straight 5 weight oil when hot. This thin oil will not protect against metal-on-metal contact in the engine when hot. I drive infrequently, but I still change my oil at least once a year. Usually get 3000-5000 miles on a change. So far, no oil related failures.
Manufactures are also telling people to go 10,000 miles between oil changes. I strongly advise not to and my newer Yukon has an oil lift timer. Even changing at 30% I still had a lifter failure. 5w30 means at 5 degrees temperature it will still act as 30 weight.
Run 5w 20 in winter and 5w 30 in summer, got it, lastly, every manufacturer tests the oil based on numerous points of circulatory lubrication, pump, flow ports, filter type, ect. The viscosity, chosen is a choice based on all the factors, just sayin, consider all the above.
I´v seen several videos on the 0w-20s and 0w16s and not one has asked if there is a loose of Power! If the oil thins out too much the cylinders will loose compression! It seems to me the auto manufactuers preasured by the enviormentalist have thrown the Viscosity Charts out the window saying "Viscosity Science No Longer Maters"! Time will tell if the 20 weight oils will hold up or if we see a generation of blown engins.
Climate is also something to take into consideration. I ive close to Houston and our summers are brutal hot. I run 5w 30 because of the better protection in the heat. I may get slightly worse fuel mileage,but I feel in the heat the added weight is better in hot conditions than the thinner 20 weight. I might not get as good of a flow rate,but as hot as it gets here in the summer..I believe it's the better choice in the summer months
@@m.hadisoussi732 yeah that’s probably not the time to run the thicker oil if at all. Look up your engine in other markets and see what is specs there. For instance my car is 0w20 USA Canada. In the book it says for everywhere else including Mexico use 5w30 and while I am still hesitant to use 5w30 if I do it will be in the middle of the summer not in the dead of winter.
I've noticed better fuel savings on a thicker oil but might just be from having a really old and worn engine LOL it's not as sensitive as new engines would be I think lol
do 5w-30, it’ll withstand the heat when you race or all the friction by the supercharger. Even ford knows 5w-30 will make the engine run better in the heat than 5w-20
I had read the same info back in 2001, A friend had a 2000 ford taurus that took 5W30 and I bought a new 2001 ford taurus and it said 5W20 oil, our engines were identical and that started me wondering why. The 5W20 does not protect the engine as well as a thicker oil. I run Castrol Edge 0W40 oil in my 6 gen SS Camaro and my 2020 F-150 Coyote
@@richeyrich2203 I run the Castrol Edge 0-W-40 because it is a Group IV synthetic, all the others are Group III except the Amsoil. The Castrol 0-W-40 oil is also a euro oil which is used for longer periods of time compared to the US vehicles. They do make a 5-W-40 oil, but Walmart doesn't carry it.
I always ran 5w-30 in every new edge mustang I’ve ever owned. I figured it’s a car I’m going to run hard and I want an oil that’s going to hold up to heat.
As soon as I..I see the lucas spinning gears ok. But Have you actually put a half quart Lucas into the motor my temp stay around 3/8 of the meter using Castrol 5w30 /10w30 mix lol 😄
As far as I can tell every time my dad would use pennzoil or Castrol in his van. I noticed Castrol Gtx 5w-20 WAS very good and got 23 mpg like when he first bought the honda. Then I see a jug of pennzoil 5w-30 no 5w20 2004? He didn't even put all of it ? Wtf ..no wonder coming out if a right turn provly way from the oil pickup after the filter It sounded rough for 3 seconds. Worse is he got 5w-20 pennz on sale when 5 quart Gtx 5w-20 sm /sn and 0.5 quart Lucas was the shiz (23 town /30 highway) water was halfway I stead of below with therm stuck open
I have a focus st. I used 5 w20 instead of 5 w30..it was an accident. Do i need to change my oil again or expect to just change it sooner ? Answer please
Great video Danny! Question for you: I’ve always ran 5W20 in my 03 Mustang GT. Would it be beneficial to make the switch to 5W30? Also, would making this change cause any damage/adverse consequences to the motor? Thank you, really appreciate it! 👍🏻
Patzimaro21 Others have gotten hundreds of thousands of miles with 5W 20. It’s not necessarily bad, it’s just not as good in my opinion. You can continue with 5W 20 or make the switch. 5W 30 will serve a little better later on in the car’s life to keep oil leaks down. Maybe make the switch then, or if you plan to make big power or be rough on the car
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage great advice. I've gone back and forth with it, but I've pretty much gone to 5w/30 & 0w/30 and I've done it for a while. I feel good about that and I totally agree with you. Sometimes I do blend some 0w/20 or 5w/20 that I use on my focus when I have extra. I was already doing it anyway, but as others have said, fordtechmakeuloco recommends it and that was all the convincing I needed.
I get it totally it depends on Mod's too.. I would run a 0/30 instead of a 5/30 in the winter's. I would only do that in Dec, to March, Then just go right back to the 5/30 when it's starts to warm back up around here.. 5/20 on a Mustang doesn't even sound right.. I have to use 5/30 on my 4 cylinder turbo Juke, And then use 5/20 on my GT it silly..
the dealer has been using 5W-20W in my 2006 toyota corolla; it calls for 5W-30W. Why!!! I have 1OOK on a bullit proof engine and have changed the oil on time since it was new. From my receipts, it looks like its been the last 2 or 3 oil change. Have some valve train noise from about the time they changed the oil, according to my receipts, Thanks Cobb County Toyota in Kennesaw Georgia for shortening the life on my engine. Asshats!
@@lonniebeal6032 these engines should run between 180 and 210 degrees regardless of climate once at temp because that's where the thermostat regulates (unless you're in the depths of Siberia/canada but then what the hell do you have a mustang for?)
Thank you. I was under my 2008 P71 Crown Vic yesterday changing the oil. I put in 5/30, and then I had second thoughts when I saw the 5/20 on the cap. Should I dump the 5/30 and start all over again with 5/20? Will the 5/30 trash my engine?
The crown Vic is the exact same engine as the mustang GT other than oil pan, valve covers, etc. I run 5w30 in my GT and all my new edge mustangs and it’s perfectly fine, but that’s my opinion, so do as you would like.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I have a 2007 FORD 500 and the dealership has been putting in the oil since we got it used. It says 5w20 but they have been putting in 5w30. It has a lot of leaks. Could that have caused it?
So I have a 2015 Legacy and it calls for 0W-20 but it burns a little bit of oil. Maybe a quart in the 5K between oil changes. Can I safely switch to 5W-20
0w20 protects just as much as 5w30, but that lower HTHS thinner oil relies more heavily on its additives rather than viscosity index to offer the same protection at extremes. This means it is less forgiving if prolong high rpm, heavy towing , and prolonged oil changes on 0w20 when all additives have worn out and now more severely damaged engine vs same scenario if slightly thicker 5w30. I’ve done more major engine repairs for abused 0w20 Toyotas vs 5w30 with all things being equal on average throughout my 12yrs.
Nope, no viscosity chart agrees with your first sentence once you are over 68F which is where 0w20 protection starts to fail. Only full on racing oils will have increased anti-wear additives. You all know that 0 is what water flows at right? That 5w20 is listed in most owners manuals for fuel economy, here is a prime example, read the first note below the falsified viscosity chart. I will run 5w20 during winter months only, then 5w30 or 10w30. It rarely gets above 105F in my area. www.manualslib.com/manual/982725/Kia-Sportage.html?page=410#manual
@@lonniebeal6032 Nope, no HTHS in oil analysis agrees with you. you're also saying the engineers are dumb and 0w20 is immediately always useless when a car is started. you're also saying my 2014 Tundra with 212K miles with exclusively only 0W20 since day 1 doesn't exist. Nope, you are wrong.
Using 5w20 I lose oil in my 2004 Ranger 2.3 4cylinder. From oil change to when I want to change it again I find I'm losing more than half a quart. I'm thinking of changing it again now using 10w30 full synthetic. Is this a bad idea?
It should be fine as long as its not real cold where you are .....10w30 is typically good down to 0 degrees F......you could use 5w30.10w30 is a good stable oil though...it has less VI improvers and usually better NOACK numbers.Synthetic will flow in cold weather better than conventional also.
Hi Danny. I have 2007 mazda 3 2.3L with more than 100,000 miles. The cap says use 5w20 but my mechanic recommended 5w30 because of the high mileage. What is your opinion on this? Would you 5w30? Thank you.
Yeah, it's kind of a mechanics trick to use some heavier weight oil to keep things from leaking. As long as it's not a heavier weight than 30 I would think it would be fine. Watch the oil pressure gauge to make sure it's not too high with the higher weight oil
The manufacturers don't care so much about longevity, as long at an engine lasts through the warrantee period (typically 36,000 these days) they are happy. On most vehicles, the oil weight called for in other countries, Australia for example, is heavier oil. That means that the engine will handle a 30 weight oil with no problem at all.
Good video...1st is go with Mobil one extended...it costs 10 cent more a quart and its as strong in every way that Mobil one makes...20k miles....2nd ACEA ratings..its a European rating but its used in the US to indicate the best possible oil...Mobil one 5w20 has a A1 B1 rating..very good but not the best...Mobil one 5w30 has a ACEA rating of A1 B5...that's the top of the top for overall oil performance...your 4.6 supercharged mustang with a 5W20 oil cap probably isn't the best oil...I'm bet money your theory is correct..5w30 Mobil one 20k is a better oil....I have a 2006 Camry 2.4 liter 4 cylinder...since it was new I put 5w30 mobile one 20k ..it has 420k miles...which engine is tuffer on oil...your 4.6 twin cam super charger...my camry says 5w30 without exception..it still gets 35-38 mpg....I got a 2003 low miles Grand Marquis..its similar to your mustang engine..it has a 4.6 single over head cam...it says 5w20...I use 5w20 but in the extended 20k Mobil one..it gets 25 mpg in the highway...its a great engine...it seems great but yours has 2X the horsepower...my Camry engine only holds 4 quarts...my marquis holds 6 quarts.....just image how good the 5w30 mobile one 20k mile oil is with only 4 quarts for 420k miles and always 10k miles oil change intervals..if I had the mustang I would go 5w30 mobile one 20k or 10w30 Mobil one 20k.....or the same weight oil in Amsoil signature series...ACEA ratings are on the back of the bottle..very few oils have the maximum ACEA rating of A1 B5....heres some proof that the extended Mobil one is as good as they say..when I reach 8k to 12k miles on my oil it without exception gets a mile or two mpg better than it did when the oil just got changed...that's extraordinary
Nah..mobile one user for years but many oil test videos on here that prove its not so good anymore. Pennzoil beats it, even Wal-Mart and Amazon cheap synthetic oils beat it! And amsoil , shafers, red line beats them all
See this is the only acceptable 10w-30 to run, but I'd still do 0w-30 all day, and if you still have cats you may as well gut them that high zinc oil's killed them by now anyways
I bought 5w30 amsoil for my 2014 jeep grand cherokee witch calls for 5w20.. I don't know if I should use it since those pentastar engines are so sensitive
@@StickNclutch the pentastar actually does great with 5w-30, even better with 5w-40. They're designed for 5w-30 honestly but cafe mandates 5w-20, same on like 99% of engines that take 5w-20, they're designed to take 5w-30 but run 5w-30 but run 5w-20 for slightly better fuel economy.
Do you think 5w30 is safe to run in a 09 4.6 gt mustang it also says use 5w20 but it does get pretty hot in New Mexico I just put 5w30 oil in it I also just changed the cams with stock Ford cams timing chain lash adjusters an rockers an high volume meling oil pump because the stock cam got scored up from a roller rocker failing
I'm in Northwest Georgia. I use Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w20 in my 2014 Mustang GT (63k miles) and 2012 Expedition (46k miles). I know the 5.4s can have issues if not maintained properly, so should I continue to use what I'm using or switch to 5w30?
I just bought a used 2007 Honda CR-V...I was thinking of adding synthetic oil when the oil gets low. Is there any danger or problem if I mix regular and synthetic oil together? I was thinking adding alittle until I can change the oil at a later date
Adding a little will not hurt as long as you don’t overfill it. I would put the oil weight recommended by the manufacturer in the owners manual since it’s a 2007
Hi & nice greetings from Bayern! (Bavaria, germany) :) @1st: What a beautyful Mustang, also even in that color & Wheels, really really beautyful! Congratulations for that build and nice Mustang! :) @2nd: I agree with you about Motoroil Viscosity --> But what is about a 5W40 instead an 5W30 or 20, in my oppinion i think that the 2nd, higher number of the Oil. Viscosity will tell that the oil will hold the viscosity an a better oilfilm strength in higher temperatures. So i thougt...But does i´m false about that? Because i´ve a very very good example at my present project; a 2006 Dodge Charger R/T in the special Edition "DAYTONA" - "Top Banana!" (So it´s also shiny yellow like your Stang, too! What i´ve found by myself in NC & imported/shipped it to Bayern, germany in last October. Since it arrived me in November i was working and modifying it for me until the last moth, then i started driving it really. And the premission to get an good daily driver with the combination of Drift/Track use sometimes. I modifyied it with a really not common set of wheels: VORS TR-4 in shiny black to the shiny yellow car, in the size of 19x10.5, 22mm offset at all corners. At frontend with 20mm spacers per side, at rearend with 10mm spacers per side. 255/45 ZR19 @ Frontend, 295/40 ZR19 @ Rearend. In Combination of a set of BC Racing BR Series Coilovers, the whole car got a so amazing look & style what is a lot different to the most common customized American Muscles, because even also the set of wheels are in the classic JDM Drift Style, very very concave & wide, too. It drives like an Go Cart however that it´s an fullsized 4 Door Sedan. That´s what i like to get. Also like the 5.7L HEMI GEN III withouth the VVT, what makes sense for me because i even like to get the most reliable options ever. It´s even that 1st what i like to get: A long lasting Automobile with Style & even because my heart is pumping for American Muscles and the classic American V8 & also Bodystyle, that meets all my Must Haves. But the Engine calls for 5W20 or even the Manufacturer and for me it was so shocking to read that "20", even because i told you what i was thinking about Motoroil Viscosity; How Higher the 2nd Numbers of the Viscosity ( 5W->"40"
But to get it better, even prevent the engine of those things i bought an 15 Row Motor Oil Radiator with an Active Thermostat what opens at 78°C & the Radiator cools down the Motoroil. And that works so fine, i would never use an HEMI withouth an Motoril Radiator System like this! Becaus in cruising the car i had temperatures of the Motoroil of roundabout 105-115°C what is very high for this kind of driving in my eyes. After i got the Motoroil Radiator System i got roundabout 80-95°C, so the Motoroil Temp. fall ~25-30°C, a big win in reliability in my eyes! :) A full success! I would recommend this all guys what would get an more realiable car. Because the modern-present cars are running hoter and hoter, even the hoax about emission reglementiations are the thing why engines runs hoter and hoter today...What makes more & more problems about cooling and material combinations, also the Motoroils and Aditives... In my eyes the reliablility of an present car engine is the target of the industry; that you get more blown up and failed engines at early times. At best after the manufacturer guarantees was running out, then an car should die. That´s the highest premission of this "System" arround "Emission Standards" and even thinner Motoroils. So that is also why i´m not sure about that 20 warm viscos.Motoroils about using this when i like to get a more raliabiity, more lifetime of these engines. Because an American V8 in the NA Version could life/last a lifetime or more, the construction and design of these is so good. And that is something what isn´t that what the Industry like, because thy like to sell more and more cars at more early times. So at Automobile Design you could find studies how to make a car or parts that will fail/break at best after the last Manuf.Guarantee was trunning out. Building a Time Bomb is the better explaination for it ;) That´s really something that goes up. That´s why there are these Electrc Vehicles, because these are the unreliable, ever waering out 1-XProduct in Automobile Design. There is nobody what could fix them for a better lifetime because the physics can´t be beaten. That´s why tehy like EV´s! Also even smaller engines with more and more boost. All this are the things to get unreliable and more unrepairable Cars. And the EV is the King of this ;) So it´s even worth to think about what parts, what car, what oils and many more things you´ll use, however the Manuf. recommends, you should make your own thing with own worth full knowledge about getting a more reliable car. And these Cars with the american design of an V8 are a perfect design and base to get an car that will last a lifetime and more. Because the design is the right base to get that with using the right components and modifications. Look at the BMW M4 with the V8, it has an normal Cooling Liquid and Motoroil Temp of roundabout 120°C, thats really really hot! And that´s not good for reliability. I also use / modifyed the Cooling System with an 82°C Thermostat, even to get the cooling liquid a little bit lower and running the HEMI on a little bit lower temperatures for get lifetime, get reliability. Becaus the most common problems of this Engines are the high temperatures. In combination of the 5W20 Motoroil i think that isn´t good for reliability....That´s why i´m thinking about a Motoroil with higher Warm Viscosity/A wider Range of the same Viscosity with a higher Warm Number... Do you know what i mean? And what you thinking about, and what is your knowledge about the Oil and those things??? That was really interesting what you thing about! :) Let me know PLEASE! Your Stang looks like a Bro to my shiny yellow Charger, that´s really funny because i doesn´t see often yellow cars or even modern Muscle Cars in yellow, especially Mustangs or even Chargers....But it looks so nice in my eyes! :)
I would just be careful with too heavy weight as Bmw Has learned. If it’s too thick it can not lubricants the rod bearings when cold and the thicker oil will run higher oil pressure which may lead to some failures. Imagine If your blood tuned to honey how hard it would be for your heart to pump it 😀
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Yes i know what you mean about the thicker, more weight oils & these, what's also something what i'm thinking about for choose the right oil for my little special Project here :) Even because i've lowered the oil temperature of roundabout ~20-25°C now with the oil Radiator & a little more oil in the system now (now ~90-100°C oil temperature at ordinary driving conditions like cruising + also sometimes 3/4-full throttle, it's a nice oil temperature i think and this Radiator is a full success i think :)) I also switch from the stock sized FRAM PH16 Oil Filter to a K&N HP-3001 High flow what is also larger in its height than the Stock ones... even also because i've seen some Videos about the fram oil Filters, that the inside; the Filter media is made of Cardboard & a little "cheap" ;) i would Not buy them anymore & with the next oil Change i'll open this FRAM PH16 Filter & will see if this Filter will show the same internals like these fram Filters in the YT oil filter test Videos... What do you think about switch to an fully sythetic 5W30, a kind of an 5W30 with the most premission of prevent of engine wear...(but which one is the best of all these 5W30 Motor oils with that kind of speciality🤔🤔🤔?) The 5.7 HEMI has 5W20 recommend by Chrysler...but even my/the premission of get the highest wear protection let me think about to get an 5W30 + Special kind of engine wear protection. Even not one that is oriented or specialized in "get the best fuel mileage" or "catalytic converters protection" or something else like that. Wear protection, that's what i really really want to get & the whole Project is oriented in that premission.... Still in the moment i think a 5W40 could have be to much weight for that kind of engine + the lowered oil temperatures...🤔... however the 6.1-6.4L SRT HEMI's use that viscosity of 5W40 & 0W40 (+ 5W20!) --> that's also something else what let me think about that it must be false that the 5.7 HEMI's would take the 5W20 only because the MDS System would not work corectly when using oils in higher viscosity classes...the 6.1-6.4L often also has the MDS System too😉
I have a 2018 2500 5.7 L hemi in my dodge. People are saying lifter failure and cam shaft failure are caused by the 20 weight oil. I’m always hauling heavy roofing materials up the mountain and doing mountain driving every day. Should I switch. I’m a roofer not a mechanic in a small mountain community trying to figure this all out. Thank you in advance.
I can’t give you official advice, but I have the same thing with my Yukon. Just replaced the lifters because one went bad and I feel it’s also the 20 weight oil. I am reluctant to run higher weight since the newer vehicles have been designed for it more, and I was worried to compromise the variable pressure oil pump and the cylinder deactivation (oil pressure controlled) so I am still not sure. I know the failure I had was under 0w20 as it called for.
Well that is a classic Mustang so It's ok to run 5w-30 but newer engines are designed for 5w-20 or even 0w-20, the best idea IMO is to use the oil recommended by the manufacturer they spent millions of dollars on research, they must now what they are doing. I even go the other way I use 0w-20 in a car that calls for 5w-20 since cold start is a very stressful moment for the engine a 0w-20 being little lighter than a 5w-20 helps to flow faster and reduces the cold starting Stress, I've noticed a more silent cold start. Nevertheless I would recommend to follow your car manual and you'll be ok.
Use recommended 5w-20 Mobile 1 synthetic in my Crown Vic Police Interceptor. Has 205k been using that since 102k it absolutely purrs doesn't burn a drop change it every 7500. Should I go to 5w-30. Live in Coastal Calif never got never cold.
It depends on your driving habits. For simply a commuter it will be fine with 5w20. If you are hard on it 5w30 may be a good option, even now since the thicker oil will prevent leaks a little better. It’s entirely your decision
It better be at least 80 degrees (farenheit) every time you start you car cause that's gonna take FOREVER to get oil pressure if it's even remotely cold. If you want thicker 5w-40 or 5w-50 oil works far better than 10w-30 all day, 10w-30 is pretty much gonna run you engine essentially without oil for a few seconds everytime you start it. I run 0w-30 even here in west texas for that exact reason. Also try 600k miles on a 96 gt? Had that thing since 30k and it was essentially a show car then, I've put 2 transmissions in it but never had to touch the motor aside from putting stage 2 cams and beehive springs in, (and 100 wet shot for a scramble button) doesn't eat a drop of oil and I run my amsoil to about 20k every change.
@@Prestiged_peck I live in P.R. 🇵🇷 so no worriers about cold weather. Also remember a vey thin oil will more contact metal to metal will get. Not too thick not too thin.
My wife has 2017 Ford Fusion with the base 4 cylinder 2.5 liter (not turbo-chaged) engine. 5w-20 is recommended per owner manual, but thinking I should switch to 5w-30 especially now as that vehicle has 110k miles on it. Any opinions?
I drive a 2008 Fusion, 2.3L 4-cylinder, non-turbo. Faithfully changing Sunoco FULL SYNTHETIC 5W20 every 5,000 miles (manual recommends every 7k, but my mechanic strongly suggested changing it every 5k), my Fusion now has 195,000 miles, still runs like a top and I've only had to change the valve cover gasket (twice).
If your factory recommended oil is 5w-20 I would put 5w-30 in there. But just remember, the weight matters for the bearings, but the quality matters more for the rings, a good high end synthetic 5w-20 will outperform any cheap 5w-30 in all aspects including high temp resistance.
That's how you blow oil pumps... there is literally no reason to run straight weights in the modern day unless it's a hydraulic system that specifically requires it.
Nooo, i just changed my oil and now your making me wanna drain it after 100 miles lol. Question, I have been using the 5w20 with the lucas stabilizer added. If I switch to 5w30 next time, should I stop using stabilizer? Thanks Danny.
I would watch that stabilizer, I agree with Danny. U are already making it thicker as it is, that stabilizer is going to increase it even more. U probably don't need it if u are doing recommended intervals with quality oil. If u do, lucas makes a newer stabilizer for newer engines that is thinner
Depends on your climate. The Lucas was probably fine with the 5w20 as long as it didn't too cold. But I agree with other comments, shouldn't need it with 5w30 unless it's constantly over 100F.
That’s kind of what I was saying in the beginning how on my newer cars I run what’s recommended, but it hasn’t changed to my knowledge on the older mustangs when they did the change. Some people run 50 weight and I wouldn’t go that far for clearance issues but going to 30 weight should be fine
I’m In the oil industry. The thinner oils are for fuel economy only. All of these energy saving oils will not meet European specs for sheer. I run Castrol Edge Euro 0w-40 in my 5.0. Gives solid cold flow and the 40 is on the lighter end of the spectrum and gives you plenty of protection at higher temps. The 5w-20 is a 20 at 212 degrees. If you are working a vehicle hard and the temps are over 212 you no longer have a 20w. I’d always recommend going up a weight. Won’t hurt the engine at all. The lighter oils on the cape and manuals are “recommended “ not “required” for vehicle operation.
Agreed.
But drivers complain about fuel consumption and expensive fuel prices.
@@FeelFree3 you won’t see any change in your daily driving. Results are from lab testing. Not real world.
What about the cam phasers that run on oil pressure? Would this not cause issues?
@@matthewpeterson4305 no issues at all.
I think you summed it up well. Regular cars can run 0w-20 all day long because it's never at sustained high load and cylinder temps. High performance forced induction cars, trucks and tractors tend to need the thicker oil to maintain the film and oil pressure. What tends to kill regular cars is simply neglect, not the oil itself.
Driving 100mph and more, over many hours on german autobahns on w20 during hot summer days? Not the best idea. It might work in the US but not in Europe, where people generaly drive faster on highways
Thx for simplifying it buddy, that was a good video. Saved. Liked.
Thanks buddy for the video I just picked up a oil change for my 04 Ford f150 4.6 and I got 5w-30 👌instead of 5w-20.
Protection over fuel economy. The decision shouldn't be too difficult.
What is your choice then?
I’m glad you made this vid as I too wondered about using 5w30 instead of 5w20
Did you switch to 5w30?
@@harkanwaljeetsingh1019 👍🏼 yes
Great video and explanation, as a non car guy you teach me with a simple way a lot!
Thanks!!
Bro love this vid. You explained things simply and not with all this other bs about products and sh*t like most of vids ive seen. Ty!
I been running Mobil 1 5w30 for years in my 2003 cobra. I had a mechanic that builds mod motors tell me 20w wasn't thick enough. Makes sense with all the heat.
I have a 2016 Yukon XL and i dumped the 0/20 and changed it up to 0/40. I also changed the cap to that that says 0/40 ...with the original 0/20 cap I drilled a hole as big ss the inner diameter of the cap...right thru to be used as my leak proof oil funnel holder during oil changes. I also run 5/40 in my 2008 Nissan Pathfinder V8. CAFE wanted 5/20 in those. I also changed the cap with one that dont have any viscosity printing on them. (Intl spec nissan oil cap) I have never followed CAFE specs. Ive always followed EU oil reccomendations.the only CAFE i follow is the brewed kind. 😉
I agree with your also agree with RIGHTEOUS comment climate is something to consider, I live in Houston/Tx and here the summer is HOT so I do use 5w-30 (not 5w-20) if I was is a place that is really cool (below or at 0) I will go with thinner oil for sure, Also there are Engines that You need to follow the OEM Recommendation because the CHANNEL of the oil (the Lifters in this case and ) in some places of the engine is so small that a Thinner oil is needed for better lubrication an example is the DODGE Challenger with HEMI V8 engine. Thanks for your video.
Excellent illustration of how B.S. CAFE standards altered oil recommendations on these cars, even when the engine design never changed. Ever since i watched a FordTechMakuloco video where he mentioned he uses only synthetic 5W30 in all the 5.4 3V motors he works on i have never gone back to 5w20. I dont baby either of my cars so it gives me peace of mind to know my oil can handle the abuse.
When I had my 5.4 I always used 5w30 conventional or blend and I would top off constantly because it was burning oil somewhere and I would often top off with 10w30 conventional.
My 85' Dodge 600 2.2L turbo would burn a qt of full synthetics 5w30 in 3000 miles, it didn't use any oil in 6000 miles with 10w30...
@@k9feces you know those motors specifically requested synthetics, the conventional use probably had something to do with the oil burning.
On my car, it says 0-20 on the oil cap. When i use that, the car burns oil. In the manual there are 3 options, 0-20, 0-30 and 5-30. Now i use 5-30 dexos1 gen2. No oil consumption, no problem.
Honey analogy is excellent
Nice description. I use Castrol 10w60 in my 392 MOPAR. it loves it. Warm here in SOCal
Does the owners manual call for it? a 20w50 is good to 113F does it really get that hot often?
Who cares. It works. I don't suck Newsoms pe
It loves it? Oh please.
I run synthetic 5w30 in my 98GT. I store it 11/1-4/1 though too. No winter driving
Definitely answers my question, thank you!
Question for anyone to answer... I have a 2009 Mazda CX-9 with 156K miles. I started losing power for pickup, and eventually was getting a metallic chugging sound when I turned corners. I took it three different auto shops and nobody could replicate the problem, or so they said. I kept asking if there were a problem with any of the fluids. All three said no each time. In the end, a fourth shop identified the problem... I only had one quart of oil left in the whole system! In my mind, oil is a fluid, but apparently I am wrong. But now I am worried about damage. It does seem I am burning oil, not leaking it. The good mechanic put 5 W 30, which is why I am here educating myself on the difference. Do any of you think I should go even higher?
No you shound't, if you need need thicker oil it means the some of the seal is not working properly, increasing oil velocity is just a temporary "fix". If you keep increasing the velocity you will end up with some where that thick oil can't "fix" the seal or the oil is too thick to run so it is breaking the engine.
Good video with good info, i have a 2012 corvette LS3 engine, I’ve always used Royal Purple 5W 20 after warranty expired. Haven’t noticed any difference with the 30 to 20 with my style of driving. I probably baby it more than I let it rip but I do go on 300 to 400 miles trips. MPG is still average 16 city/ 26-27 hwy. I don’t think it’s much of a big noticeable difference in regular driving, at least i haven’t and don’t expect to. Good maintenance and care really helps in whatever oils you decide. Again that’s just what I think if one is just regular driving.
Royal purple is trash .watch project farms oil test videos. Amsoil, red line , shafers , Pennzoil many more are way better than rp
Great video. I've heard Ford Mechanics say to run 5/30 and not the Ford recommended 5/20 because of Cam phaser issues that the thinner oil causes.
I dun know why consumers cant tell that these manufacturers are out to scam you to help their gas mileage numbers. 0w20 ? really? why dont they just advise pouring water or methylated spirit as a lubricant.
If you have high mileage like over one hundred thousand miles you can go up in viscosity. Instead of 5/20 go 5/30.
It's always fun to hear and read what people say about oils. I would say that most people have at least some truth to what they say about the oils that they use. Me? I'm still just learning, so thank you to the other commenters.
Haha, I just changed my oil in my 2003 Ford SD 250 5.4l and forgot which weight of oil because it's sratched off the cap. I Googled and it said 5w-30, so I started to put it in and decided to check my manual to see the amount and it said 5w-20! I came here and to my relief it sounds like it's a better oil, plus it's summer too so it doesn't sound like a problem. Thanks for the info y'all.
I did a ton of research on this, I run 10w30 with mmo in my 2.4l jeep. Calls for 5w20. Great video love oil talk, everyone's got their own flavor and weight... catch can anyone?
Run 5w30, you get the benefits of thicker protection when hot and quick flow at cold start
I only use full synthetics when I change my oil, 5w30 or 10w30 in my out of warranty 2016 Turbo. In warranty Sportage has free lifetime oil changes, they use 5w20 Mobile 1 blend, in the winter under 68F I leave it alone, come summer I take a jug of full synthetics 10w30 to them and hope they actually use it. Why does no one who discusses viscosity ever refer to a viscosity chart? And I don't mean the one supplied in the owners manual that they can control.
Ima go with 5w-30 I live in AZ summer is right around the corner lol only weekends for the Stang now got a daily so I can let my Stang rest and finish FBOing it.
Great video, I have a 2012 GT with a 120,000 . Started its life from 32k with Royal Purple until 80k. Shop didnt carry anymore. So switched to Valvoline Max High Milage Synthetic. May burn a quart to a quart and a half between a 5k oil change. But remember this is still a 5w-20. Non modified motor, not one oil leak, spirited driving, daily driver. These gen 1 motors and Chevy LS motors are bullet proof. Its lost HP by mathematically engine years, however dosent feel like it. Wondering if I will even have to rebuild at 200k. Just FYI on high milage coyote motor .
Just my 2 cents. 150K Tahoe 2003 . I decided recently (last oil change) to try Restore. I must say, did help with compression! Not that I had lost much, a Tahoe LS . But it’s worth a shot. I never go over 4K an oil change either 👍
its not just about topping up the quart....the thinner oil by the fact that it burns off doesnt protect as well as a thick w40 or w50 oil which has more zinc.
your definitely right in running 5w30 I have a 2010 track pack GT and it says in the owner's manual 5w20 for fuel mileage but to run 5w30 for hard driving racing or track use so that right there says 5w30 won't hurt it not to mention who has a Mustang that don't run it hard. i would not go any thicker but supercharged definitely hard on the oil i would only trust #1 amsoil or #2 mobil 1 By the way wicked wicked Terminator cobra
My everyday driver is a 98' lexus gs400, live in South Florida, I've always run 5w30 as factory recommended, car drives great with almost $230k miles on odometer.
Wow, $230,000 on that odometer. Never seen it like that in dollars.
I run 5w-30 in my 2012 Raptor. 6.2L v8 that sees lots of hard desert off road miles. After 180k miles it runs like a dream and uses no oil between oil changes.
Like you said, for normal daily driving 5w-20 would be ok. For hard driving 5W-30 is the better choice. 🙌🏼 im a master mechanic with 25 years of experience BTW
Seeking advice. Should I run my 22 VW GTI with 0W20 or go to 0W30 or even 40 instead? I live in Canada and I like to run my car hard when the conditions permit it (since it's still cold, icy, and snowy where I live). My concern is the recommended 0W/5W20 is too thin for a hot running EA888 2.0T engine. It also warms up real fast in cold climates compared to my 2013 Hyundai Veloster with 1.6 NA or 2003 Ford Focus 2.0 NA engine. It probably has to do with the electronic thermostat unlike the old school style of wax that needs to heat up on Veloster and Focus.
@@W0LV1E45 Since you live in a very cold place, but do push the engine hard Id use 0w-30.
The 0w will provide easier starts and good protection and the 30 will work just fine under high load conditions.
Thats my honest opinion.
@@jibrilthegreat35 my car manufacturer recommend 0w20 but I live in very hot climate 40 - 45C do I have to change viscosity I run my car between hard and normal it’s a Chevy spark 1.4L NA what’s your suggestion?
@@nawaffidah5018 in very warm weather Id not hesitate to use 5w-30.
You will get slight less MPG but your engine will benefit from increased viscosity, which will protect your car in hot weather.
0w oil is ideal for places where the temperature drops very low, and lower viscosity is needed to allow for good oil flow at start up.
I have a 2014 Chrysler 300 with a 5.7 engine has about 80k and it sounds like a sewing machine under load. I was told to use 5w-20 but was wondering if using something different might help reduce the buzzing (sounds dry)
As defined by the SAE 5w-30 is also a 5w-20 as it exceeds the SAE viscosity test requirements for 5W-200. This equally applies to a 0w-40 or 5w-40.
I agree. 5W-20 was fine for my 2002 Ranger V6 that never used much oil, but not for a supercharged V8. My 95 Toyota truck calls for 10W-30. I use 5W-30.
5w50 Amsoil Signature Series in my 2012 Shelby GT500.
5w30 Amsoil Signature Series in my 1996 Toyota Avalon
0w20 Amsoil Signature Series in my 2021 Jeep rubicon 3.6 v6
As of 4/23, I’ve switched from 0w20 to 0w30 Amsoil Signature Series in my 2021 Jeep rubicon. Night and day difference on start up. Super quiet with the 0w30 and less blow by caught in the catch can. Like over 1/2 the amount less from 0w20.
My 2018 Raptor gets 5w30 Amsoil signature series and I and hardly tell the engine is running it’s so quiet and smooth.
Rock on man, 30k changes in my 96 gt on amsoil 0w-30, 600k and going strong! (Got it at 40k)
Perfectt
09 Toyota Prado , book says 5w 30, but now using full synthetic 5w 40, much smoother than 30, and I live in a hot tropical climate in Asia where temps don't dip below 30C/88F, so a bit thicker oil makes more sense.
That W30 is good to about 100F, but nothing wrong with the W40 .
Thanks. This was the comment I was looking for. My Corolla says to use 0W-20 and I was looking for justification for my thoughts on using 0W-30. Now I got it :) p.s. Also leave in hot country where the annual temperatures are -10 to + 45 C
@@lonniebeal6032 That's the point. In west Africa the daytime temperatures can easily exceed 100°F on any given day. Using anything less than a 40 weight means the car ends up on the scrapheap far sooner than it should.
My 2018 2.4L 4 cylinder Ram Promaster City van recommends 5w20.. but consumes oil. I live in Hot Florida. Okay to use 5w30?
An article by a Lube magazine said 30W is optimal viscosity for an engine. Also they said Ford trucks in in North America use 20W, but in Europe, Ford trucks use 30W to comply with factory warranties.
30 it is!
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage In some forum. Someone noted that Ford engineers tested 20W oils and found there was 30% increase in engine wear. I guess the white shirts said who cares we don't wanna pay for the CAFE fine, besides they can buy another Ford because they are diehard fans....
@@stevel1475 That's because there is a viscosity failure over 68F with the w20's.
There are no Ford trucks in Europe, except very few Ranges
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage also some guy on UA-cam did used oil analysis of 5w30 vs 0w30 on his vehicle. Couldn't remember what vehicle. The 0w30 had more wear metals than the 5w30 oil. That was an eye opener. My guess is 0w is too thin to start running an engine under load from a cold engine. 5w is slightly thicker to give it some better protection when running a cold engine under load(like driving off after starting) I know everyone says 0w oil flows faster, but oils have anti wear additives in them already. So when you start the engine, the additives are preventing wear, then you need some cushioning for piston slap hence alittle thicker.
I’m in Massachusetts. Very cold and very hot. I have a 2020 civic si. It takes 0w20. I notice during the day the engine runs different comparing to when it’s chilly outside at night. Is it ok if I switch to 5w30. A lot of people told me to do that.
Was w/ U all tha way Broski, from when u snappd the bolt, till u extracted it!! So Fu*k evry Troll’n “Know-it-all” Kook’s negative comment u come across, bc they didnt knw how 2do it @sum point n their lives either. U learn by doing, sometimes mistakes r made, sometimes not, but nxt time U’ll b that much better @it..Glad u stuck n thru whole Vid, Proud of U🤙🏾
I've run 5w30 for the entire life of my 06 mustang gt, but i can't help but think we should all still be running 10w30 unless you live in the Northern most points of the globe.
I wanna run 5w30 in my 09 gt mustang i live in New Mexico where it’s hot I was wondering if the cam phasers need thinner oil like 5w 20 or if 5w 30 is fine
I have been using Straight 30w in my 71 302 now im going to get 5w 30 now
my first thought is would you need to upgrade your oil pump to run the 30 weight ?
Def depends on bearing clearances and application for built engines… from what I know they go with more clearance,,,, and call for thicker oil. Valvoline VR1. To the the flow to cool bearings down
You'll know it's a good oil, when the worst motors are still going strong with the PUP, I too whatched the oil shootout video years ago, researched PUP, and guys in The subaru forums were sending thier oil out analysis after a change over to PUP , and had good results .
I work at chevy dealership and that Mobil 1 5w30 is the one we use for c6 c7 Corvette. Best and pricey oil we have
Mobile 1 user for years but many oil test on UA-cam that proves it isn't that good .even Wal-Mart and Amazon synthetic oils beat it..and amsoil , red line , shafers and a few others beat them all
94 mustang GT/ I run synthetic 5W-30
My volvo xc70 2.4D needs normally 0w30
I use Kroon Helar 0w40. (Full synthetic)
I live in Europa but drive few times a year to Siberië.
My automatic transmission i use Kroon sp matic 4026
In my diff's and transfercase i use Kroon gearlube racing 75w140 ( full synthetic)
because i drive continue with a 3000kg and a high trailer.
In my haldex i use Kroon sp fluid 6033.
My car calls for 0w20 so that's what I'll use, but I might switch to 5w30 once the engine gets some serious miles on it.
Yo would u run 5w30 in a 2011 honda civic ...? It calls for 5w20....not in a very cold area pretty neutral year round....what do u think?
Thanks for the video.
I bought a new Hyundai Elantra in 2018. I change the oil every 4k. I use a Mobil 1 filter and synthetic oil. Yah, I'm throwing my money away, I should go another 2k. Anyway. The oil cap says 5w20. The manual has 5w20 and 5w30 listed in the same temp range, and 10w30 when it's warmer...i have 56k on the car and have always used 5w20. Last oil change I changed over to 5w30. This will leave a little more film on the moving parts and add a little more protection when the engine is hot. Heat is what ultimately kills engines, unless it's a chrysler, then it's just junk. Sorry for adding that. I was so burned by them in the past I never got over it...
Look at your manual, that 5w20 is from our corrupt government wanting more mpg at the expense of your engine. And my past Dodges were great, but that was in the 80's and 90's.
www.manualslib.com/manual/982725/Kia-Sportage.html?page=410#manual
My 17 Elantra runs way better on 5w30. These engines aren’t that solid anyway and thin oil doesn’t help
what about in a 2014 mustang gt coyote with 52k miles? on the cap it says 5w20 and that's what i have ran the past 3 oil changes. the car isn't raced just a few pulls here and there.
I have heard that the first number in the oil viscosity rating is the viscosity number for the base oil. Additives allow the final product to function as a 30 weight oil (5W30) when the oil is hot. These additives break down over time with the result that the viscosity does not maintain the performance of the 30 weight oil when hot. So...if you wait too long to change your oil, you are really running straight 5 weight oil when hot. This thin oil will not protect against metal-on-metal contact in the engine when hot. I drive infrequently, but I still change my oil at least once a year. Usually get 3000-5000 miles on a change. So far, no oil related failures.
Manufactures are also telling people to go 10,000 miles between oil changes. I strongly advise not to and my newer Yukon has an oil lift timer. Even changing at 30% I still had a lifter failure. 5w30 means at 5 degrees temperature it will still act as 30 weight.
Run 5w 20 in winter and 5w 30 in summer, got it, lastly, every manufacturer tests the oil based on numerous points of circulatory lubrication, pump, flow ports, filter type, ect. The viscosity, chosen is a choice based on all the factors, just sayin, consider all the above.
Ford says 5w-20 . . . I live in HOT Arizona, should I go with 5w-30 ?? thnx and good vid
I´v seen several videos on the 0w-20s and 0w16s and not one has asked if there is a loose of Power! If the oil thins out too much the cylinders will loose compression! It seems to me the auto manufactuers preasured by the enviormentalist have thrown the Viscosity Charts out the window saying "Viscosity Science No Longer Maters"! Time will tell if the 20 weight oils will hold up or if we see a generation of blown engins.
Climate is also something to take into consideration. I ive close to Houston and our summers are brutal hot. I run 5w 30 because of the better protection in the heat. I may get slightly worse fuel mileage,but I feel in the heat the added weight is better in hot conditions than the thinner 20 weight. I might not get as good of a flow rate,but as hot as it gets here in the summer..I believe it's the better choice in the summer months
I used 5w30 instead 5w20 and the car couldn't run in the cold weather (-20 degree-Celcius).
I live in Arizona where the summers are even more brutal. 5w-30 is clearly a better choice.
@@m.hadisoussi732 yeah that’s probably not the time to run the thicker oil if at all. Look up your engine in other markets and see what is specs there. For instance my car is 0w20 USA Canada. In the book it says for everywhere else including Mexico use 5w30 and while I am still hesitant to use 5w30 if I do it will be in the middle of the summer not in the dead of winter.
H-Town
Bingo, I live in Midland, and the hot, dry summers are very hard on engines and batteries, as well as all of us working in the patch.
I've noticed better fuel savings on a thicker oil but might just be from having a really old and worn engine LOL it's not as sensitive as new engines would be I think lol
5W20 Amsoil synthetic signature series oil is my go to oil with a motocraft oil filter !
I'm not sure which weight between the 20 and 30 are currently in the Cobra when I got but when I do the first oil change I'm going to run 5W30
do 5w-30, it’ll withstand the heat when you race or all the friction by the supercharger. Even ford knows 5w-30 will make the engine run better in the heat than 5w-20
@@StBeter-tc2te I don’t race it but I put in 30 this spring
@@Lethal_Venom 👍 nice, i love a not beaten Cobra. Nice termi brotha
@@StBeter-tc2te Thank you sir
I had read the same info back in 2001, A friend had a 2000 ford taurus that took 5W30 and I bought a new 2001 ford taurus and it said 5W20 oil, our engines were identical and that started me wondering why. The 5W20 does not protect the engine as well as a thicker oil. I run Castrol Edge 0W40 oil in my 6 gen SS Camaro and my 2020 F-150 Coyote
Why a 0w rather than a 5w?
@@richeyrich2203 I run the Castrol Edge 0-W-40 because it is a Group IV synthetic, all the others are Group III except the Amsoil. The Castrol 0-W-40 oil is also a euro oil which is used for longer periods of time compared to the US vehicles. They do make a 5-W-40 oil, but Walmart doesn't carry it.
I live near Chicago and own a Fiesta ST. What oil would you recommend for winter and what oil would you recommend for summer?
Just use a year round multi grade, 5w30 would be fine for your area
Well said
In the Middle East, the temperature in the summer reaches 45 c , and car companies ask to put oil 5w20 ..
unbelievable
I always ran 5w-30 in every new edge mustang I’ve ever owned. I figured it’s a car I’m going to run hard and I want an oil that’s going to hold up to heat.
Cousin Jimmy Farha ua-cam.com/video/ASAdkJydBFU/v-deo.html
As soon as I..I see the lucas spinning gears ok. But Have you actually put a half quart Lucas into the motor my temp stay around 3/8 of the meter using Castrol 5w30 /10w30 mix lol 😄
As far as I can tell every time my dad would use pennzoil or Castrol in his van. I noticed Castrol Gtx 5w-20 WAS very good and got 23 mpg like when he first bought the honda. Then I see a jug of pennzoil 5w-30 no 5w20 2004? He didn't even put all of it ? Wtf ..no wonder coming out if a right turn provly way from the oil pickup after the filter It sounded rough for 3 seconds. Worse is he got 5w-20 pennz on sale when 5 quart Gtx 5w-20 sm /sn and 0.5 quart Lucas was the shiz (23 town /30 highway) water was halfway I stead of below with therm stuck open
I use Mobil1 5W30 with WIX filter in my 2.0L Ford, 3.6L Buick, & 5.2L Dodge! Every 5K miles.
I have a focus st. I used 5 w20 instead of 5 w30..it was an accident. Do i need to change my oil again or expect to just change it sooner ? Answer please
5w30 in summer and 5w20 in winter on my 5.0 F-150 👍
Great video Danny! Question for you: I’ve always ran 5W20 in my 03 Mustang GT. Would it be beneficial to make the switch to 5W30? Also, would making this change cause any damage/adverse consequences to the motor? Thank you, really appreciate it! 👍🏻
Patzimaro21 Others have gotten hundreds of thousands of miles with 5W 20. It’s not necessarily bad, it’s just not as good in my opinion. You can continue with 5W 20 or make the switch. 5W 30 will serve a little better later on in the car’s life to keep oil leaks down. Maybe make the switch then, or if you plan to make big power or be rough on the car
Danny Johnson’s Garage Sounds good, I will keep that in mind for later in the car’s life. Thank you
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage great advice. I've gone back and forth with it, but I've pretty much gone to 5w/30 & 0w/30 and I've done it for a while. I feel good about that and I totally agree with you. Sometimes I do blend some 0w/20 or 5w/20 that I use on my focus when I have extra. I was already doing it anyway, but as others have said, fordtechmakeuloco recommends it and that was all the convincing I needed.
@Adam Joseph Thank you for the feedback, I appreciate it!
I get it totally it depends on Mod's too.. I would run a 0/30 instead of a 5/30 in the winter's. I would only do that in Dec, to March, Then just go right back to the 5/30 when it's starts to warm back up around here.. 5/20 on a Mustang doesn't even sound right.. I have to use 5/30 on my 4 cylinder turbo Juke, And then use 5/20 on my GT it silly..
Avalon 176K miles going strong with 5w-30
Fordtechmakuloco (UA-cam channel) says to run 5w30 where it says to run 5w20. Especially on the 5.4 3v.
That dude knows his stuff too
the dealer has been using 5W-20W in my 2006 toyota corolla; it calls for 5W-30W. Why!!! I have 1OOK on a bullit proof engine and have changed the oil on time since it was new. From my receipts, it looks like its been the last 2 or 3 oil change. Have some valve train noise from about the time they changed the oil, according to my receipts, Thanks Cobb County Toyota in Kennesaw Georgia for shortening the life on my engine. Asshats!
Corrupt government mandates, the dealers will pay fines for not using thinner oils.
It would but more wear and tear on your engine if the oil is thinner so it makes sense to go thicker
Only really necessary at hotter climates, online viscosity charts not tied to an owners manual.
@@lonniebeal6032 these engines should run between 180 and 210 degrees regardless of climate once at temp because that's where the thermostat regulates (unless you're in the depths of Siberia/canada but then what the hell do you have a mustang for?)
Thank you. I was under my 2008 P71 Crown Vic yesterday changing the oil. I put in 5/30, and then I had second thoughts when I saw the 5/20 on the cap. Should I dump the 5/30 and start all over again with 5/20? Will the 5/30 trash my engine?
The crown Vic is the exact same engine as the mustang GT other than oil pan, valve covers, etc. I run 5w30 in my GT and all my new edge mustangs and it’s perfectly fine, but that’s my opinion, so do as you would like.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I have a 2007 FORD 500 and the dealership has been putting in the oil since we got it used. It says 5w20 but they have been putting in 5w30. It has a lot of leaks. Could that have caused it?
So I have a 2015 Legacy and it calls for 0W-20 but it burns a little bit of oil. Maybe a quart in the 5K between oil changes. Can I safely switch to 5W-20
My crosstrek burnt about the same amount of oil with 0w-20 but when I switched to 5w30 it stopped burning oil
0w20 protects just as much as 5w30, but that lower HTHS thinner oil relies more heavily on its additives rather than viscosity index to offer the same protection at extremes. This means it is less forgiving if prolong high rpm, heavy towing , and prolonged oil changes on 0w20 when all additives have worn out and now more severely damaged engine vs same scenario if slightly thicker 5w30. I’ve done more major engine repairs for abused 0w20 Toyotas vs 5w30 with all things being equal on average throughout my 12yrs.
Once the dozen additives in the 0w20 are worn out, you now have water thin canola oil for protection.
Change your damn oil on time.
Nope, no viscosity chart agrees with your first sentence once you are over 68F which is where 0w20 protection starts to fail. Only full on racing oils will have increased anti-wear additives. You all know that 0 is what water flows at right? That 5w20 is listed in most owners manuals for fuel economy, here is a prime example, read the first note below the falsified viscosity chart. I will run 5w20 during winter months only, then 5w30 or 10w30. It rarely gets above 105F in my area.
www.manualslib.com/manual/982725/Kia-Sportage.html?page=410#manual
@@lonniebeal6032 Nope, no HTHS in oil analysis agrees with you. you're also saying the engineers are dumb and 0w20 is immediately always useless when a car is started. you're also saying my 2014 Tundra with 212K miles with exclusively only 0W20 since day 1 doesn't exist. Nope, you are wrong.
I agree with you totally
Using 5w20 I lose oil in my 2004 Ranger 2.3 4cylinder. From oil change to when I want to change it again I find I'm losing more than half a quart. I'm thinking of changing it again now using 10w30 full synthetic. Is this a bad idea?
It should be fine as long as its not real cold where you are .....10w30 is typically good down to 0 degrees F......you could use 5w30.10w30 is a good stable oil though...it has less VI improvers and usually better NOACK numbers.Synthetic will flow in cold weather better than conventional also.
Hi Danny. I have 2007 mazda 3 2.3L with more than 100,000 miles. The cap says use 5w20 but my mechanic recommended 5w30 because of the high mileage. What is your opinion on this? Would you 5w30? Thank you.
Yeah, it's kind of a mechanics trick to use some heavier weight oil to keep things from leaking. As long as it's not a heavier weight than 30 I would think it would be fine. Watch the oil pressure gauge to make sure it's not too high with the higher weight oil
Supercharged or Turbo? I'd go right to a 10w40 or 15w50 M1.
The manufacturers don't care so much about longevity, as long at an engine lasts through the warrantee period (typically 36,000 these days) they are happy.
On most vehicles, the oil weight called for in other countries, Australia for example, is heavier oil. That means that the engine will handle a 30 weight oil with no problem at all.
Exactly. The oil weight in my 1999 Honda Accord called for 5/30 in the US but in other countries, called for 10/30 for the exact same engine.
@@muziklvr7776 Only real difference is in North America, we get pretty cold winters, hence the 5W.
Nothing but 5w30 in my 2006 Crown Vic.
Been on the fence on 5W-20 vs 5W-30....I have a '05 Interceptor. It has 140,000 miles. Going to go with the 5W-30. Thanks for your input brother.
Which fuel economy we're talking about, when technically braking pads still trying to brake a car, even if pedal still released
Good video...1st is go with Mobil one extended...it costs 10 cent more a quart and its as strong in every way that Mobil one makes...20k miles....2nd ACEA ratings..its a European rating but its used in the US to indicate the best possible oil...Mobil one 5w20 has a A1 B1 rating..very good but not the best...Mobil one 5w30 has a ACEA rating of A1 B5...that's the top of the top for overall oil performance...your 4.6 supercharged mustang with a 5W20 oil cap probably isn't the best oil...I'm bet money your theory is correct..5w30 Mobil one 20k is a better oil....I have a 2006 Camry 2.4 liter 4 cylinder...since it was new I put 5w30 mobile one 20k ..it has 420k miles...which engine is tuffer on oil...your 4.6 twin cam super charger...my camry says 5w30 without exception..it still gets 35-38 mpg....I got a 2003 low miles Grand Marquis..its similar to your mustang engine..it has a 4.6 single over head cam...it says 5w20...I use 5w20 but in the extended 20k Mobil one..it gets 25 mpg in the highway...its a great engine...it seems great but yours has 2X the horsepower...my Camry engine only holds 4 quarts...my marquis holds 6 quarts.....just image how good the 5w30 mobile one 20k mile oil is with only 4 quarts for 420k miles and always 10k miles oil change intervals..if I had the mustang I would go 5w30 mobile one 20k or 10w30 Mobil one 20k.....or the same weight oil in Amsoil signature series...ACEA ratings are on the back of the bottle..very few oils have the maximum ACEA rating of A1 B5....heres some proof that the extended Mobil one is as good as they say..when I reach 8k to 12k miles on my oil it without exception gets a mile or two mpg better than it did when the oil just got changed...that's extraordinary
Nah..mobile one user for years but many oil test videos on here that prove its not so good anymore. Pennzoil beats it, even Wal-Mart and Amazon cheap synthetic oils beat it! And amsoil , shafers, red line beats them all
@hopebrowning6300 what's the most miles you personally put on a engine and what oil was it? Don't lie
I run Amsoil 10W30 Race Oil. Great stuff!
Racing oil has a massively better anti-wear package, but less detergents. And Amsoil got the number 1 spot with projectfarms oil testing competition.
See this is the only acceptable 10w-30 to run, but I'd still do 0w-30 all day, and if you still have cats you may as well gut them that high zinc oil's killed them by now anyways
I bought 5w30 amsoil for my 2014 jeep grand cherokee witch calls for 5w20.. I don't know if I should use it since those pentastar engines are so sensitive
@@StickNclutch the pentastar actually does great with 5w-30, even better with 5w-40. They're designed for 5w-30 honestly but cafe mandates 5w-20, same on like 99% of engines that take 5w-20, they're designed to take 5w-30 but run 5w-30 but run 5w-20 for slightly better fuel economy.
@@StickNclutch I don't foresee any problem with using 5W30.
Do you think 5w30 is safe to run in a 09 4.6 gt mustang it also says use 5w20 but it does get pretty hot in New Mexico I just put 5w30 oil in it I also just changed the cams with stock Ford cams timing chain lash adjusters an rockers an high volume meling oil pump because the stock cam got scored up from a roller rocker failing
Perfectly fine to run 5w-30
I'm in Northwest Georgia. I use Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w20 in my 2014 Mustang GT (63k miles) and 2012 Expedition (46k miles). I know the 5.4s can have issues if not maintained properly, so should I continue to use what I'm using or switch to 5w30?
For newer engines you may want to stay with what is recommended, but change every 3-4k miles rather than how they tell you to do longer intervals.
I just bought a used 2007 Honda CR-V...I was thinking of adding synthetic oil when the oil gets low. Is there any danger or problem if I mix regular and synthetic oil together? I was thinking adding alittle until I can change the oil at a later date
What type synetic oil would you suggest for a 2007 Honda crv. Im on the east coast.
Adding a little will not hurt as long as you don’t overfill it. I would put the oil weight recommended by the manufacturer in the owners manual since it’s a 2007
Hi & nice greetings from Bayern! (Bavaria, germany) :)
@1st: What a beautyful Mustang, also even in that color & Wheels, really really beautyful! Congratulations for that build and nice Mustang! :)
@2nd: I agree with you about Motoroil Viscosity --> But what is about a 5W40 instead an 5W30 or 20, in my oppinion i think that the 2nd, higher number of the Oil. Viscosity will tell that the oil will hold the viscosity an a better oilfilm strength in higher temperatures. So i thougt...But does i´m false about that? Because i´ve a very very good example at my present project; a 2006 Dodge Charger R/T in the special Edition "DAYTONA" - "Top Banana!" (So it´s also shiny yellow like your Stang, too! What i´ve found by myself in NC & imported/shipped it to Bayern, germany in last October. Since it arrived me in November i was working and modifying it for me until the last moth, then i started driving it really.
And the premission to get an good daily driver with the combination of Drift/Track use sometimes. I modifyied it with a really not common set of wheels: VORS TR-4 in shiny black to the shiny yellow car, in the size of 19x10.5, 22mm offset at all corners. At frontend with 20mm spacers per side, at rearend with 10mm spacers per side. 255/45 ZR19 @ Frontend, 295/40 ZR19 @ Rearend. In Combination of a set of BC Racing BR Series Coilovers, the whole car got a so amazing look & style what is a lot different to the most common customized American Muscles, because even also the set of wheels are in the classic JDM Drift Style, very very concave & wide, too. It drives like an Go Cart however that it´s an fullsized 4 Door Sedan. That´s what i like to get. Also like the 5.7L HEMI GEN III withouth the VVT, what makes sense for me because i even like to get the most reliable options ever. It´s even that 1st what i like to get: A long lasting Automobile with Style & even because my heart is pumping for American Muscles and the classic American V8 & also Bodystyle, that meets all my Must Haves. But the Engine calls for 5W20 or even the Manufacturer and for me it was so shocking to read that "20", even because i told you what i was thinking about Motoroil Viscosity; How Higher the 2nd Numbers of the Viscosity ( 5W->"40"
But to get it better, even prevent the engine of those things i bought an 15 Row Motor Oil Radiator with an Active Thermostat what opens at 78°C & the Radiator cools down the Motoroil. And that works so fine, i would never use an HEMI withouth an Motoril Radiator System like this! Becaus in cruising the car i had temperatures of the Motoroil of roundabout 105-115°C what is very high for this kind of driving in my eyes. After i got the Motoroil Radiator System i got roundabout 80-95°C, so the Motoroil Temp. fall ~25-30°C, a big win in reliability in my eyes! :) A full success! I would recommend this all guys what would get an more realiable car. Because the modern-present cars are running hoter and hoter, even the hoax about emission reglementiations are the thing why engines runs hoter and hoter today...What makes more & more problems about cooling and material combinations, also the Motoroils and Aditives... In my eyes the reliablility of an present car engine is the target of the industry; that you get more blown up and failed engines at early times. At best after the manufacturer guarantees was running out, then an car should die. That´s the highest premission of this "System" arround "Emission Standards" and even thinner Motoroils. So that is also why i´m not sure about that 20 warm viscos.Motoroils about using this when i like to get a more raliabiity, more lifetime of these engines. Because an American V8 in the NA Version could life/last a lifetime or more, the construction and design of these is so good. And that is something what isn´t that what the Industry like, because thy like to sell more and more cars at more early times. So at Automobile Design you could find studies how to make a car or parts that will fail/break at best after the last Manuf.Guarantee was trunning out. Building a Time Bomb is the better explaination for it ;) That´s really something that goes up. That´s why there are these Electrc Vehicles, because these are the unreliable, ever waering out 1-XProduct in Automobile Design. There is nobody what could fix them for a better lifetime because the physics can´t be beaten. That´s why tehy like EV´s! Also even smaller engines with more and more boost. All this are the things to get unreliable and more unrepairable Cars. And the EV is the King of this ;)
So it´s even worth to think about what parts, what car, what oils and many more things you´ll use, however the Manuf. recommends, you should make your own thing with own worth full knowledge about getting a more reliable car. And these Cars with the american design of an V8 are a perfect design and base to get an car that will last a lifetime and more. Because the design is the right base to get that with using the right components and modifications. Look at the BMW M4 with the V8, it has an normal Cooling Liquid and Motoroil Temp of roundabout 120°C, thats really really hot! And that´s not good for reliability. I also use / modifyed the Cooling System with an 82°C Thermostat, even to get the cooling liquid a little bit lower and running the HEMI on a little bit lower temperatures for get lifetime, get reliability. Becaus the most common problems of this Engines are the high temperatures. In combination of the 5W20 Motoroil i think that isn´t good for reliability....That´s why i´m thinking about a Motoroil with higher Warm Viscosity/A wider Range of the same Viscosity with a higher Warm Number... Do you know what i mean? And what you thinking about, and what is your knowledge about the Oil and those things???
That was really interesting what you thing about! :) Let me know PLEASE!
Your Stang looks like a Bro to my shiny yellow Charger, that´s really funny because i doesn´t see often yellow cars or even modern Muscle Cars in yellow, especially Mustangs or even Chargers....But it looks so nice in my eyes! :)
I would just be careful with too heavy weight as Bmw Has learned. If it’s too thick it can not lubricants the rod bearings when cold and the thicker oil will run higher oil pressure which may lead to some failures. Imagine If your blood tuned to honey how hard it would be for your heart to pump it 😀
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage
Yes i know what you mean about the thicker, more weight oils & these, what's also something what i'm thinking about for choose the right oil for my little special Project here :)
Even because i've lowered the oil temperature of roundabout ~20-25°C now with the oil Radiator & a little more oil in the system now (now ~90-100°C oil temperature at ordinary driving conditions like cruising + also sometimes 3/4-full throttle, it's a nice oil temperature i think and this Radiator is a full success i think :))
I also switch from the stock sized FRAM PH16 Oil Filter to a K&N HP-3001 High flow what is also larger in its height than the Stock ones... even also because i've seen some Videos about the fram oil Filters, that the inside; the Filter media is made of Cardboard & a little "cheap" ;) i would Not buy them anymore & with the next oil Change i'll open this FRAM PH16 Filter & will see if this Filter will show the same internals like these fram Filters in the YT oil filter test Videos...
What do you think about switch to an fully sythetic 5W30, a kind of an 5W30 with the most premission of prevent of engine wear...(but which one is the best of all these 5W30 Motor oils with that kind of speciality🤔🤔🤔?)
The 5.7 HEMI has 5W20 recommend by Chrysler...but even my/the premission of get the highest wear protection let me think about to get an 5W30 + Special kind of engine wear protection.
Even not one that is oriented or specialized in "get the best fuel mileage" or "catalytic converters protection" or something else like that. Wear protection, that's what i really really want to get & the whole Project is oriented in that premission....
Still in the moment i think a 5W40 could have be to much weight for that kind of engine + the lowered oil temperatures...🤔... however the 6.1-6.4L SRT HEMI's use that viscosity of 5W40 & 0W40 (+ 5W20!) --> that's also something else what let me think about that it must be false that the 5.7 HEMI's would take the 5W20 only because the MDS System would not work corectly when using oils in higher viscosity classes...the 6.1-6.4L often also has the MDS System too😉
I have a 2018 2500 5.7 L hemi in my dodge. People are saying lifter failure and cam shaft failure are caused by the 20 weight oil. I’m always hauling heavy roofing materials up the mountain and doing mountain driving every day. Should I switch. I’m a roofer not a mechanic in a small mountain community trying to figure this all out. Thank you in advance.
I can’t give you official advice, but I have the same thing with my Yukon. Just replaced the lifters because one went bad and I feel it’s also the 20 weight oil. I am reluctant to run higher weight since the newer vehicles have been designed for it more, and I was worried to compromise the variable pressure oil pump and the cylinder deactivation (oil pressure controlled) so I am still not sure. I know the failure I had was under 0w20 as it called for.
Any modern engine can use from 0w20 to 20w50 in tropical areas. No Cam phaser problems to me I tried it all in my 1ZZFBE.
Thank you, just got a used RDX wants 0w20 year around and I don't like that idea.
Well that is a classic Mustang so It's ok to run 5w-30 but newer engines are designed for 5w-20 or even 0w-20, the best idea IMO is to use the oil recommended by the manufacturer they spent millions of dollars on research, they must now what they are doing.
I even go the other way I use 0w-20 in a car that calls for 5w-20 since cold start is a very stressful moment for the engine a 0w-20 being little lighter than a 5w-20 helps to flow faster and reduces the cold starting Stress, I've noticed a more silent cold start. Nevertheless I would recommend to follow your car manual and you'll be ok.
That’s what I said and why I also said in the video that I use 20 weight as recommended in my Yukon since it’s a 2015
No they are not designed for 5w20, it's a government scam for fuel mileage, many owners manuals even state that.
@@lonniebeal6032 but isnt there the engine first and then they look which oil to use ? Was there a 5w20 when the car came out ? Dont know
Use recommended 5w-20 Mobile 1 synthetic in my Crown Vic Police Interceptor. Has 205k been using that since 102k it absolutely purrs doesn't burn a drop change it every 7500. Should I go to 5w-30. Live in Coastal Calif never got never cold.
It depends on your driving habits. For simply a commuter it will be fine with 5w20. If you are hard on it 5w30 may be a good option, even now since the thicker oil will prevent leaks a little better. It’s entirely your decision
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage prevent leaks ? When it's hot or cold ?
@@countryfamilyalways7280 Both. Thicker oil has a harder time seeping through passages like gaskets. Look it up
I don't believe your mileage with 5w20 the life of the car. Use and online viscosity chart.
10W-30 2003 Cobra 55,000 miles 👌🏻✌🏻
It better be at least 80 degrees (farenheit) every time you start you car cause that's gonna take FOREVER to get oil pressure if it's even remotely cold. If you want thicker 5w-40 or 5w-50 oil works far better than 10w-30 all day, 10w-30 is pretty much gonna run you engine essentially without oil for a few seconds everytime you start it. I run 0w-30 even here in west texas for that exact reason. Also try 600k miles on a 96 gt? Had that thing since 30k and it was essentially a show car then, I've put 2 transmissions in it but never had to touch the motor aside from putting stage 2 cams and beehive springs in, (and 100 wet shot for a scramble button) doesn't eat a drop of oil and I run my amsoil to about 20k every change.
@@Prestiged_peck I live in P.R. 🇵🇷 so no worriers about cold weather. Also remember a vey thin oil will more contact metal to metal will get. Not too thick not too thin.
My wife has 2017 Ford Fusion with the base 4 cylinder 2.5 liter (not turbo-chaged) engine. 5w-20 is recommended per owner manual, but thinking I should switch to 5w-30 especially now as that vehicle has 110k miles on it. Any opinions?
I drive a 2008 Fusion, 2.3L 4-cylinder, non-turbo. Faithfully changing Sunoco FULL SYNTHETIC 5W20 every 5,000 miles (manual recommends every 7k, but my mechanic strongly suggested changing it every 5k), my Fusion now has 195,000 miles, still runs like a top and I've only had to change the valve cover gasket (twice).
Can i use this on my isuzu trooper 4JG2 diesel engine 1994? We have no winter in our country Philippines. Pls advise.
If your factory recommended oil is 5w-20 I would put 5w-30 in there. But just remember, the weight matters for the bearings, but the quality matters more for the rings, a good high end synthetic 5w-20 will outperform any cheap 5w-30 in all aspects including high temp resistance.
how about run half of 20w oil and half of 30w oil , best of both worlds ? I have an 2003 honda accord 2.4 and this works great for me.
That's how you blow oil pumps... there is literally no reason to run straight weights in the modern day unless it's a hydraulic system that specifically requires it.
I don't think that's what he means. He means half 5w20 and half 5w30
Looool best of both worlds 😂😂😂😂
Nooo, i just changed my oil and now your making me wanna drain it after 100 miles lol. Question, I have been using the 5w20 with the lucas stabilizer added. If I switch to 5w30 next time, should I stop using stabilizer? Thanks Danny.
You’ll be ok this oil change. It’s not a huge deal, just better. I would probably not do the stabilizer with 5w30 but that’s up to you
I would watch that stabilizer, I agree with Danny. U are already making it thicker as it is, that stabilizer is going to increase it even more. U probably don't need it if u are doing recommended intervals with quality oil. If u do, lucas makes a newer stabilizer for newer engines that is thinner
Depends on your climate. The Lucas was probably fine with the 5w20 as long as it didn't too cold. But I agree with other comments, shouldn't need it with 5w30 unless it's constantly over 100F.
don't add lucas to the 5w30
I’m sure someone already mentioned this: did the bearing clearances change when the OEMs switched to a 5w20? That’s something to consider.
That’s kind of what I was saying in the beginning how on my newer cars I run what’s recommended, but it hasn’t changed to my knowledge on the older mustangs when they did the change. Some people run 50 weight and I wouldn’t go that far for clearance issues but going to 30 weight should be fine
My dodge caravan say 5W-20 can I put 5w30 in it
Every car I've owned that said to use 5w-20 ran NOTICEABLY better on 5w-30 and the gas mileage dropped MAYBE 1-2 mpg if that.
Well, 1-2 mpg is a hell of a lot on my 14mpg 2003 F150 4.6L
Can I use 5w30 in a Malibu 2.5 Ecotec?