Just bought a seized 800 pro R. Guy said it seized very suddenly so probably top end from overheating. Ill be doing the same job as you did. One question. When you re start the fresh engine, did you pre mix the fuel just in case? How do you make sure the oil pump is working properly? Thanx.
First thing is to purge all the air out of the oil line. I found the best way to was to tip the sled on it's side to make it easy for the air bubbles to rise up the hose and into the tank. I let it sit like that for a while. Before first start it is recommended that you manually lift the oil control lever with a piece of wire, like a clothes hanger, to force the oil flow to run at max and then roll the engine over a bit without spark to get the oil primed. You should be able to see the oil moving in the hose a bit. Keep the oil lever pulled at max when you start up for the first time and run it like that for a bit. It should smoke pretty good if the oiler is working at full. I did run a bit of a mix in the first tank I ran through it. Good Luck!
Doing a top end in my 2012 pro rmk right now. When the sled is all back together how to you ensure that there is no air in the coolant system? Is there a bleeder screw somewhere? Don’t have the manual as I bought it used
There should be a bleed screw on top of the thermostat housing. I didn't really have any problems with air in the cooling system. I added coolant to the engine before reinstalling the thermostat. Then made sure to keep the surge bottle at the proper level while heat cycling a few times. I cracked the bleed screw but had coolant right away. I only had to add a little bit more to the bottle in the process. If the heat exchanger in the tunnel is getting hot and your reservoir level is stable you should be ok. Obviously you should keep an eye on it for the first run or 2. Try this link for a manual. drive.google.com/file/d/1F1pEj6PSlOUUih09GfIE32jjhcNK9V0i/view?usp=sharing Good luck and thanks for watching.
My understanding is that the problem early on in the life this motor was weak piston skirts on the Polaris OEM pistons and some early aftermarket pistons. The durability kit was a work around allowing you to run OEM pistons from an Arctic Cat that had longer skirts. Over time the Polaris OEM and aftermarket replacements were improved and the durability kit became less of a necessity. Sorry for the late reply and thanks for watching.
@@tracksnwheels @David Haley Although I think replacement pistons are enough to "fix" this engine, that is not quite true. The angle of the rod when piston is at TDC moving downwards makes the rod "push" the piston against the exhaust side of the cylinder wall (Some force is working in X direction) This can increase wear around the exhaust ports and piston rings. If you are unlucky this can cause a ring to snag on the port. By adding a spacer between the engine block and cylinder, together with a taller designed piston, the angle of the rod when piston is at TDC going down is less, and thus force is working less in X direction and more in Y direction. This pushes more downwards on the piston and less towards the exhaust side of the cylinder wall, creating less wear. It has nothing to do with AC pistons, but I have heard some people using AC pistons like you say. Nice video though. I like the Liberty engine.
Sorry, I haven't worked on an axys chassis. My 2013 was a Pro-Ride chassis and I didn't need to remove the steering post to do the in chassis refresh or for full engine removal.
It wasn't hard. Just fill the block before putting the thermostat back on and fill the hoses too. Fill the charge tank and when you start running crack the bleed screw on the thermostat housing until the air is out. Your charge tank should drop after running and you may need to top it up. Put your hand on the rear heat exchanger to see if its getting hot. If not raise the front end a bit and keep bleeding.
Here's a link to an image of the page from the manual with the info you need. facebook.com/tracksnwheels/photos/a.741880896699806/741880860033143/?__cft__[0]=AZXENHnI3PDoLTypEEIE5wA-ZYiSIHhkX8nj6zDfekV8aBZCWU3AMZa7GgBUYVKQhaFgnL2YRAXjFENv5IEz9nuxnvWwLjY9wHWoP1owXiFjIEmqoR4GopYPbDSS2JtpQgL_3lQBB1hd7aZAxTkNtf4SrbrGwA57asZqkkDwVFdOjg&__tn__=EH-R
Are you referring to the parts that are mounted on the A frame that I removed to access the motor? Those are the solenoids for the exhaust valves. There is one hose running to each of the exhaust valves on the engine.
@@tracksnwheels At 2:41, where does that longer hose attach back onto the engine. It looks like it runs to somewhere underneath the engine. I see where the two smaller hoses attach to the exhaust valves on top of the cylinders but can't find where the longer one goes.
@@bobschloth3409 the longer hose on the bottom side of the exhaust solenoid is just a drain line. Is just runs down to the bottom of the engine bay and will drip some oil.
This 800 had over 9K on it when I did the top end refresh. I should have done the bottom at 10K but didn't and a rod bearing went at 12K. I'd say that pretty good. If you want to be thorough I'd say top every 5K and bottom every 10K
Great vid, you made it look easy...
Damn how many times have I changed a topend and never changed the bearings... I'm cheap like that !
Hey there. You need to replace that fuel filter if it gets restricted it will lean out your new top end.
Thanks Brian. Good advice.
Just bought a seized 800 pro R. Guy said it seized very suddenly so probably top end from overheating. Ill be doing the same job as you did. One question. When you re start the fresh engine, did you pre mix the fuel just in case? How do you make sure the oil pump is working properly? Thanx.
First thing is to purge all the air out of the oil line. I found the best way to was to tip the sled on it's side to make it easy for the air bubbles to rise up the hose and into the tank. I let it sit like that for a while. Before first start it is recommended that you manually lift the oil control lever with a piece of wire, like a clothes hanger, to force the oil flow to run at max and then roll the engine over a bit without spark to get the oil primed. You should be able to see the oil moving in the hose a bit. Keep the oil lever pulled at max when you start up for the first time and run it like that for a bit. It should smoke pretty good if the oiler is working at full. I did run a bit of a mix in the first tank I ran through it. Good Luck!
Hey,nice video where did you get the bag thats under gas tank. thanks.
Thanks. The bag is oem. Got it from polaris dealer. Was able to fit all my tools in there.
Doing a top end in my 2012 pro rmk right now. When the sled is all back together how to you ensure that there is no air in the coolant system? Is there a bleeder screw somewhere? Don’t have the manual as I bought it used
There should be a bleed screw on top of the thermostat housing. I didn't really have any problems with air in the cooling system. I added coolant to the engine before reinstalling the thermostat. Then made sure to keep the surge bottle at the proper level while heat cycling a few times. I cracked the bleed screw but had coolant right away. I only had to add a little bit more to the bottle in the process. If the heat exchanger in the tunnel is getting hot and your reservoir level is stable you should be ok. Obviously you should keep an eye on it for the first run or 2. Try this link for a manual.
drive.google.com/file/d/1F1pEj6PSlOUUih09GfIE32jjhcNK9V0i/view?usp=sharing
Good luck and thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video. Curious why no durability kit? Are they worth it?
My understanding is that the problem early on in the life this motor was weak piston skirts on the Polaris OEM pistons and some early aftermarket pistons. The durability kit was a work around allowing you to run OEM pistons from an Arctic Cat that had longer skirts. Over time the Polaris OEM and aftermarket replacements were improved and the durability kit became less of a necessity. Sorry for the late reply and thanks for watching.
@@tracksnwheels thank you
@@tracksnwheels @David Haley Although I think replacement pistons are enough to "fix" this engine, that is not quite true. The angle of the rod when piston is at TDC moving downwards makes the rod "push" the piston against the exhaust side of the cylinder wall (Some force is working in X direction) This can increase wear around the exhaust ports and piston rings. If you are unlucky this can cause a ring to snag on the port. By adding a spacer between the engine block and cylinder, together with a taller designed piston, the angle of the rod when piston is at TDC going down is less, and thus force is working less in X direction and more in Y direction. This pushes more downwards on the piston and less towards the exhaust side of the cylinder wall, creating less wear. It has nothing to do with AC pistons, but I have heard some people using AC pistons like you say. Nice video though. I like the Liberty engine.
Belt is on backwards
You are right! Put an OEM belt on there at the start of the season.
I can’t get at the Bottom nuts to remove steering post. Exhaust manifold is not off. How do you get at it? Working on 2015 axys 800
Sorry, I haven't worked on an axys chassis. My 2013 was a Pro-Ride chassis and I didn't need to remove the steering post to do the in chassis refresh or for full engine removal.
How did you bleed the coolant to make sure it was readily available.
Matt.
It wasn't hard. Just fill the block before putting the thermostat back on and fill the hoses too. Fill the charge tank and when you start running crack the bleed screw on the thermostat housing until the air is out. Your charge tank should drop after running and you may need to top it up. Put your hand on the rear heat exchanger to see if its getting hot. If not raise the front end a bit and keep bleeding.
Hi are you able to post the torque specs for the cylinder and head?
Here's a link to an image of the page from the manual with the info you need.
facebook.com/tracksnwheels/photos/a.741880896699806/741880860033143/?__cft__[0]=AZXENHnI3PDoLTypEEIE5wA-ZYiSIHhkX8nj6zDfekV8aBZCWU3AMZa7GgBUYVKQhaFgnL2YRAXjFENv5IEz9nuxnvWwLjY9wHWoP1owXiFjIEmqoR4GopYPbDSS2JtpQgL_3lQBB1hd7aZAxTkNtf4SrbrGwA57asZqkkDwVFdOjg&__tn__=EH-R
Where do you reattach the hoses on the steering rack to the engine?
Are you referring to the parts that are mounted on the A frame that I removed to access the motor? Those are the solenoids for the exhaust valves. There is one hose running to each of the exhaust valves on the engine.
@@tracksnwheels At 2:41, where does that longer hose attach back onto the engine. It looks like it runs to somewhere underneath the engine. I see where the two smaller hoses attach to the exhaust valves on top of the cylinders but can't find where the longer one goes.
@@bobschloth3409 the longer hose on the bottom side of the exhaust solenoid is just a drain line. Is just runs down to the bottom of the engine bay and will drip some oil.
I should of got the 600cfi way better engine life i see some of my buddies with 5k miles on em still going
This 800 had over 9K on it when I did the top end refresh. I should have done the bottom at 10K but didn't and a rod bearing went at 12K. I'd say that pretty good. If you want to be thorough I'd say top every 5K and bottom every 10K
These 800 CFI'S ARE TRASH I REBUILT MY 2014 TWICE i dont miss em