If you want more holding force get a clutch designed to work in a truck or RV. And one other thing: "Torque doesn't mean Power" clutches don't care about power. They only deal in torque. And the balance of a clutch has nothing to do with the performance of it, unless you go above a specific RPM rating. I can burn up 20 clutches for the cost of one of those rip-offs. Lighten the car, that will give you more response from the power output. Change the tire material for better grip, and dyno tune the ignition at the RPM range you will be using. Some minor changes in the bearings and higher pressure oil pump with an oil cooler will give you safer top end red line.
Dude literally knows jack shit about clutches and u can tell he just made the video because he happened to have them around. Basically just points out all the obvious shit. Doesn't take note on the material or crimping stages. Everything he says is like...well yeah no shit.
GodSpeed lol he said clutch one little metal, 2 more metal makes better....?. 3 says will be more metallic but it's carbon (non metallic). Metal on metal is never a good friction. Always metal on silicate/ceramic.
Crimping stages are part of the manufacturing process in which a crimping machine folds over two pieces of metal to keep them together without the need of welding or press fitting. Crimping is done in stages. Therefore, crimping stages.
I went in watching this wondering why there were so many dislikes on an informational video but after reading the comments I realized why. I'm no car guru myself just learning stuff but the video was still cool, regardless of the verbal mistakes.
I don't know everything about clutches, but I do know a little. I watched this to try to learn, and I picked up a little, but mostly I was correcting nomenclature in my head the whole time.
Toasted my stock Luk clutch at the drags. Got a Bully Stage 4 sprung six-puck. Works great, can daily it just fine and is more than enough to hold the power. Definitely worth the cost imho
I've had ceramic clutches before. Some are un-streetable in that they will bark the tires due to no spring on the disc. The clutch is either in or out not much slippage to get smooth shifts. The other thing is unless you use a hardened flywheel they will wear out the flywheel in no time.
+George Montgomery My Saturn Vue does that in 1st gear... I get the clutch bite and rev the car to start moving (or it dies) But if I let the clutch out just even a tiny bit to quick it spins the tyres. Are these things related to your comment you think? Note: (When I'm stationary) I have to keep the clutch in and rev the car to about 2k rpm before it will start to move. Then I let the clutch out fully after about 4-6mph and I can then shift through the gears normally. That is to get the car not to squeal the tyres. If I do it when I was a newb, I would rev to 2k rmp and then as soon as I felt the car moving I would let the clutch out and then go. Which spun the tyres.
@@fastmadcow fwd cars will behave like that with any aftermarket clutch that is more aggressive than stock. Doesnt take much to chirp or even spin the tires on fwd and though a ceramic would do that even something as low as a 4 puck sports clutch would do the same.
I'm looking at getting a multiplate disk and paraphernalia as I'm afraid of burning my clutch prematurely with my very dynamic driving. Older cars are so much fun to play with
I bought a Competition clutch, stage 3 for a 94/LT1/ T56 firebird with minor upgrades and it did not last more than 20,000 miles on the street. It grabbed like hell but it wasn't great for the street. Just a heads up for anyone considering that brand.
Rebuildable or not, if you use an unsprung friction plate clutch with a standard oem syncromesh gearbox, you'll be rebuilding your gearbox AND your clutch. Crank harmonics. Look it up. There are different clutches for different applications. It's not a simple case of more expensive is better, not in terms of longevity or torque holding capacity.
which is best clutch for swift LUK vs Exedy vs sachs ? if price not issue? just need strong reliable clutch and best quality, nothing fancy or any stunt car !
If u have to remove the transmission to replace less parts in the clutch it really doesn't matter at that point. If the clutch is removed might as well replace it with a basic one. Unless ur a race kid
Very good video here you can say that you will have quality according to what you want to pay, the other day my grandson who goes to bed and gets up thinking about sports cars, he got a turbo kit that he ordered on ebay was very happy, he put it in the nissan 240sx he has, he started the car and left like a bullet, before the half mile was spilling oil everywhere but he pay for shit and shit has.
I've also never heard of carbon fiber holding more when it's hot, I've always heard the opposite. The only reason they use it is it has a high heat tolerance and is light.
do u have a any suggestion for clutch kit for car racing starters? btw i am living in a cold place so i dont know if the 2k clutch is good for my car acura el 1997
I remember watching the video of that 900hp MRS with the K swap that clutch grabbed the best on the last run. The clutch was smoking like crazy the whole dern time talk about overkill!
1st clutch light pedal good feel and will last 150,000 miles if driven with mechanical consideration and can usually take 50% power increase. 2nd clutch heavier pedal not good feel harsher bite will last ??? No need to take your left leg to the gym. 3rd clutch on or off. All clutches are balanced by the manufacturer. Do not buy top branded clutches off ebay 99% of them are fakes
You did nothing but point out visual differences - this was helpful because I didn't get the magazine 'Highlights' as a kid so I don't know how to spot differences.
Dank Solution won't hear me complain. I usually go for a trans capable of significantly more than the power I'm going for and then my clutch can still be able to handle more than the power being run but less than the trans so if something does go out the clutch and typically the pressure plate is what goes rather than something else more expensive or harder to take apart. Not that I want my clutch to go out just prefer it over other drive line parts
All clutches/ flywheels ARE balanced...relatively. It's not NOT balanced just because it doesn't have smooth round shape design like that 2000$ carbon disk clutch. Altho its got random areas of uneven metal around the edges, the actual weight is still distributed evenly around. If it was even slightly off it would vibrate and shake your engine to pieces
mnm m: Did this video "inspire" you to go touch some clutches/flywheels/pressure plates??? "Inspiration" and "role model" are not something to take away from this video. Your ridiculous comment got 14 thumbs up... ??? WHY? Must be 14 millennials who just got done playing Gran Turismo. You spelled "you're" wrong too buddy. YOU'RE not good with communication. Perhaps you lack proper inspiration in your life.
@@fwh79FOXR6 I agree.. plus the guy said high end clutch discs are mainly metal, so it would be metal on metal.. not much friction there and I'd imagine it would last 5 or 10 miles? Lol I made it under 6 minutes in, he's awful.
I put a heavy duty clutch in my Mustang it was a 1985 and believe it or not it got slower, so for all you people out there that have a little better than stock cars or a stock engine don't go put a heavy duty clutch cuz it will slow down your car but if you have a let's say 450 horsepower car and you would have to go with a little better clutch
Thanks for the comparison. The visual differences are well illustrated. So balance is key. And also component replace-ability. How does that work? Do you send it back for re-balancing when you replace a worn disc or busted fingers? If so this would truly be a lifetime clutch, which would make it somewhat cost effective. If not I think the mid brand would probably give you longer life for the same money. I guess it all depends on your application. A daily driver probably goes through 4 clutches in in a persons lifetime (my experience) and a race car maybe one a race tops? That would be 12 clutch pushes per clutch. Or about $200 every time you put your foot on the clutch. Cha-Ching!!!
So the cheap clutch is quieter and lasts longer. Can't handle driving hard because??? It won't last as long? While the expensive one has a couple more rivets, doesn't last as long because you drive it harder?
Man I just bought a cb7 and it's got a brand new stage 1 clutch in it. Every time I just try to drive normally it shakes the whole car when the clutch engages. Should I just put a OEM clutch in it. Just want it to drive normal it's none stock any way
I might be stupid but that $2000 clutch is going to be out of balance rather quickly once it has some miles on it unless carbon clutches don't produce dust. Also I can get a "perfromance" carbon fiber clutch for my truck for about $250. So I can't fathom how that clutch cost so much.
what about gearboxes? if i upgrade my clutch etc. in my Fiesta but the Gearbox is only capable of around 300nm of Tourqe how/where can i get better/stronger gearboxes from or is a stronger clutch enough?
Bedi O if you upgrade the clutch the gearbox should get upgraded too. I've always put on a gearbox capable of more torque than the clutch so the weakest point is the pressure plate in the clutch. Much easier and typically cheaper to replace.
If anyone is spending $2000 on a clutch for their 115 wheel horse power civic you got some issues. How bout move the hell out of your moms apartment and spend money on rent and groceries. Not hating. Just a wake up call, so that later on you won’t regret how stupid you were spending big bucks on a stupid clutch. Peace y’all.
Get a clutch at the Cheapest price
15% off with Code DIYMIKE at www.Tunerpartsusa.com
tunerpartsusa.com/discount/DIYMIKE
There's no reason to pay 2500 for a clutch unless u drag race 1500 hp cars. 300 dallor cluches been doimg great for me even at 500 hp
You're probably spending way more replacing it even few miles
🙏
iv been using the same Exedy triple for the last 10 years. iv never even inspected it, still works great. (2008 Evo X GSR, 505hp/420tq)
Of course you won't drive that car as much as u would a honda 😒😒
If you want more holding force get a clutch designed to work in a truck or RV. And one other thing: "Torque doesn't mean Power" clutches don't care about power. They only deal in torque. And the balance of a clutch has nothing to do with the performance of it, unless you go above a specific RPM rating. I can burn up 20 clutches for the cost of one of those rip-offs. Lighten the car, that will give you more response from the power output. Change the tire material for better grip, and dyno tune the ignition at the RPM range you will be using. Some minor changes in the bearings and higher pressure oil pump with an oil cooler will give you safer top end red line.
Johnathan Taffner both of you don’t know what the hell you are talking about!
Toyota tersel 1996
My car cost $1000 so it’s weird seeing just a clutch for $2500
Paid 300 for mine lol.
Yeah and a B18c5 engine around 5k
A set of glow plugs can cost $1000 lol
yeah got my car for $2k and to replace the clutch its about $2.3k better of selling the car to an auction house
@@TheRayjay62 do it yourself
Dude literally knows jack shit about clutches and u can tell he just made the video because he happened to have them around.
Basically just points out all the obvious shit. Doesn't take note on the material or crimping stages. Everything he says is like...well yeah no shit.
GodSpeed lol he said clutch one little metal, 2 more metal makes better....?. 3 says will be more metallic but it's carbon (non metallic). Metal on metal is never a good friction. Always metal on silicate/ceramic.
Crimping stages? What the hell are you talking about lol.
Crimping stages are part of the manufacturing process in which a crimping machine folds over two pieces of metal to keep them together without the need of welding or press fitting.
Crimping is done in stages.
Therefore, crimping stages.
I know what crimping means but what is being crimped and what are the stages?
Lmfao 👍🏽
That clutch is more expensive than my motor
That clutch is more expensive then my whole car
Yup, same here minus $300. That's just insane. I'd love one but there's no way in this lifetime.
I could buy two engines for my car for the price of that clutch lol
What kind of shitbox do you drive mate?
@@bradbozarth4635 I could buy 3! That’s 24 cylinders!!!!
I went in watching this wondering why there were so many dislikes on an informational video but after reading the comments I realized why. I'm no car guru myself just learning stuff but the video was still cool, regardless of the verbal mistakes.
I don't know everything about clutches, but I do know a little. I watched this to try to learn, and I picked up a little, but mostly I was correcting nomenclature in my head the whole time.
2:44 “Right off the batch”?
The expression is, “Right off the bat”.
Toasted my stock Luk clutch at the drags. Got a Bully Stage 4 sprung six-puck. Works great, can daily it just fine and is more than enough to hold the power. Definitely worth the cost imho
I've had ceramic clutches before. Some are un-streetable in that they will bark the tires due to no spring on the disc. The clutch is either in or out not much slippage to get smooth shifts. The other thing is unless you use a hardened flywheel they will wear out the flywheel in no time.
George Montgomery best advice in this video so far
+George Montgomery
My Saturn Vue does that in 1st gear... I get the clutch bite and rev the car to start moving (or it dies) But if I let the clutch out just even a tiny bit to quick it spins the tyres. Are these things related to your comment you think?
Note: (When I'm stationary) I have to keep the clutch in and rev the car to about 2k rpm before it will start to move. Then I let the clutch out fully after about 4-6mph and I can then shift through the gears normally. That is to get the car not to squeal the tyres. If I do it when I was a newb, I would rev to 2k rmp and then as soon as I felt the car moving I would let the clutch out and then go. Which spun the tyres.
@@fastmadcow fwd cars will behave like that with any aftermarket clutch that is more aggressive than stock. Doesnt take much to chirp or even spin the tires on fwd and though a ceramic would do that even something as low as a 4 puck sports clutch would do the same.
I think the term you are looking for is coefficient of friction. Which increases with heat, for the carbon ceremic wear material.
You called the pressure plate a clutch disk, cringe
Has 108k subs... wow!
I think he was referring to within' when he was talking about it.
I'm looking at getting a multiplate disk and paraphernalia as I'm afraid of burning my clutch prematurely with my very dynamic driving.
Older cars are so much fun to play with
8:47 It's designed to extract as much power as it possibly can...good to know. lol
I bought a Competition clutch, stage 3 for a 94/LT1/ T56 firebird with minor upgrades and it did not last more than 20,000 miles on the street. It grabbed like hell but it wasn't great for the street. Just a heads up for anyone considering that brand.
Rebuildable or not, if you use an unsprung friction plate clutch with a standard oem syncromesh gearbox, you'll be rebuilding your gearbox AND your clutch. Crank harmonics. Look it up. There are different clutches for different applications. It's not a simple case of more expensive is better, not in terms of longevity or torque holding capacity.
which is best clutch for swift LUK vs Exedy vs sachs ? if price not issue? just need strong reliable clutch and best quality, nothing fancy or any stunt car !
I'm in similar situation, which one did you go with?
@@Chasingwhiterabbits did not change it but update I received on recommandation , to use exedy
I think for a 500 dollar gmc s15 i think I’m just gonna go with the one that doesn’t cost 5 times more than the truck
Both exedy clutches will outlast that junk comp clutch.
comp clutch is a great company and highly reccomended even in drift applications
That's the truth
I have comp clutch on my Teggy 460whp no problem at all.. and I abuse the crap out of it!
If u have to remove the transmission to replace less parts in the clutch it really doesn't matter at that point. If the clutch is removed might as well replace it with a basic one. Unless ur a race kid
It depends on how well you take care of the car ..... no matter how expensive it is it will break just as quickly as the cheap one..
6:34 Carbon ceramic
right off the bat....... right off the bat........ right off the bat
That $2500 clutch is no match for my vtec
and here i am with a clutch thats been slipping for the last year
and here i am with clutch slipping for 3 years
Why do i feel like a carbon clutch would literally explode if you let the clutch out on accident when stopped in gear rather than neutral?
Very good video here you can say that you will have quality according to what you want to pay, the other day my grandson who goes to bed and gets up thinking about sports cars, he got a turbo kit that he ordered on ebay was very happy, he put it in the nissan 240sx he has, he started the car and left like a bullet, before the half mile was spilling oil everywhere but he pay for shit and shit has.
I've also never heard of carbon fiber holding more when it's hot, I've always heard the opposite. The only reason they use it is it has a high heat tolerance and is light.
High heat tolerance but it doesn’t hold better with heat lol your confusing me
@@kills456 thats what old leather just said
when using a lightweight flywheel would a stock pressure plate and friction disc be ok to use?
i am using a stock pressure plate with a 6 puck stage 3 clutch and a LW flywheel and it drives great. Just hear the flywheel chattering at idle
I had a copper twin disc clutch in my sc300 with a 2jz bolted to a cd009. Always sounded like it was going to blow up at idke😂
Metallic is an adjective not a noun.
do u have a any suggestion for clutch kit for car racing starters? btw i am living in a cold place so i dont know if the 2k clutch is good for my car acura el 1997
New drinking game. Every time he says, "OK", you have to drink.
yo def. doin this when i can
Or everytime he stutters
I remember watching the video of that 900hp MRS with the K swap that clutch grabbed the best on the last run. The clutch was smoking like crazy the whole dern time talk about overkill!
1st clutch light pedal good feel and will last 150,000 miles if driven with mechanical consideration and can usually take 50% power increase.
2nd clutch heavier pedal not good feel harsher bite will last ??? No need to take your left leg to the gym.
3rd clutch on or off.
All clutches are balanced by the manufacturer.
Do not buy top branded clutches off ebay 99% of them are fakes
Hope they balanced it after they put that blue paint on...otherwise that's gonna be out of balance. And it's gonna impact my times.
You did nothing but point out visual differences - this was helpful because I didn't get the magazine 'Highlights' as a kid so I don't know how to spot differences.
will it last 25 times longer?
Shiny Purple means more horsepower.
I rebuilt my whole car. And the clutch was the most expensive thing I bought. Competition Stage 5 4 puck. D16z6 making 433whp 307wtq at 21psi.
Dank Solution did you really need that big of clutch for those numbers? Or did you just go overkill to play it safe?
Gaming Made Simple played it safe.
Dank Solution was just curious. Wasn't sure if it would be needed if you were drag racing AWD on full slicks or something to that nature
Gaming Made Simple I just wanted all the power laid down. I didn't want to mess around with a cheap clutch.
Dank Solution won't hear me complain. I usually go for a trans capable of significantly more than the power I'm going for and then my clutch can still be able to handle more than the power being run but less than the trans so if something does go out the clutch and typically the pressure plate is what goes rather than something else more expensive or harder to take apart. Not that I want my clutch to go out just prefer it over other drive line parts
Wtcsf would you need a $2000 clutch on a Honda for GTFO
Hey Mike, Im looks for a twin disc. What brand do you recommend? Im looking at Clutch Master and Competition clutch.
There is less clutch material on the stage 2 meaning it will last far far less time then the oem stock clutch
Good to know!
I bought a Gallo 24 motor so I guess I need a stage 5?
Lmao it dont matter if you win by an inch or a mile, winning is winning
Get a twin or triple carbon disk. They go up even higher in price.
with higher price i ll just buy a new truck
All clutches/ flywheels ARE balanced...relatively.
It's not NOT balanced just because it doesn't have smooth round shape design like that 2000$ carbon disk clutch. Altho its got random areas of uneven metal around the edges, the actual weight is still distributed evenly around. If it was even slightly off it would vibrate and shake your engine to
pieces
Pressure plates you mean? The actual clutch is the item laying right there to the right. It has spline gears in the center Sir.
whats the second clutch made from and its a stage 2 right?
yes sir it is..
Probably copper ceramic
Keep the content coming dude your an inspiration and role model!
Thank you ! I aim to inspire
mnm m: Did this video "inspire" you to go touch some clutches/flywheels/pressure plates??? "Inspiration" and "role model" are not something to take away from this video. Your ridiculous comment got 14 thumbs up... ??? WHY? Must be 14 millennials who just got done playing Gran Turismo. You spelled "you're" wrong too buddy. YOU'RE not good with communication. Perhaps you lack proper inspiration in your life.
@@fwh79FOXR6 I agree.. plus the guy said high end clutch discs are mainly metal, so it would be metal on metal.. not much friction there and I'd imagine it would last 5 or 10 miles? Lol I made it under 6 minutes in, he's awful.
Exedy dual plate organic clutch. Putting one in my 2007 STi soon.
Should of done your research before making this video
I put a heavy duty clutch in my Mustang it was a 1985 and believe it or not it got slower, so for all you people out there that have a little better than stock cars or a stock engine don't go put a heavy duty clutch cuz it will slow down your car but if you have a let's say 450 horsepower car and you would have to go with a little better clutch
Which one is the better clutch?
Have a 5.3 and putting a AR5 trans up to it any idears on what clutch to use thks
Thanks for the comparison. The visual differences are well illustrated. So balance is key. And also component replace-ability. How does that work? Do you send it back for re-balancing when you replace a worn disc or busted fingers? If so this would truly be a lifetime clutch, which would make it somewhat cost effective. If not I think the mid brand would probably give you longer life for the same money. I guess it all depends on your application. A daily driver probably goes through 4 clutches in in a persons lifetime (my experience) and a race car maybe one a race tops? That would be 12 clutch pushes per clutch. Or about $200 every time you put your foot on the clutch. Cha-Ching!!!
3 years ago exedy was 100 bucks... now they're 200
so the real question is what car are they going on?
Civic EG obviously haha
I suffered of an overdose of commercials while watching this. Thanks youtube.
The channel owner pics the amount of ads to put on a video, not UA-cam.
Next video.. Stage 2 vs stage 69.
William Funes video after that : stage 69 vs stage 420.
Nice
You should have done a comparison of a 500 act extreme kit with unsprung disc to the 2500 dollar carbon
The 2k clutch requires heat in what way? Just let car warm up or 0 to 100
So the cheap clutch is quieter and lasts longer. Can't handle driving hard because??? It won't last as long? While the expensive one has a couple more rivets, doesn't last as long because you drive it harder?
Man I just bought a cb7 and it's got a brand new stage 1 clutch in it. Every time I just try to drive normally it shakes the whole car when the clutch engages. Should I just put a OEM clutch in it. Just want it to drive normal it's none stock any way
Bone stock anyway
take a shot every time he says “right off the bat”
I might be stupid but that $2000 clutch is going to be out of balance rather quickly once it has some miles on it unless carbon clutches don't produce dust. Also I can get a "perfromance" carbon fiber clutch for my truck for about $250. So I can't fathom how that clutch cost so much.
what about gearboxes?
if i upgrade my clutch etc. in my Fiesta but the Gearbox is only capable of around 300nm of Tourqe how/where can i get better/stronger gearboxes from or is a stronger clutch enough?
Bedi O if you upgrade the clutch the gearbox should get upgraded too.
I've always put on a gearbox capable of more torque than the clutch so the weakest point is the pressure plate in the clutch. Much easier and typically cheaper to replace.
Does the $2.5K fits on a Lancer ?
DO NOT BUY MPACT CLUTCHES. mine blew up, causing catastrophic clutch failure and MPACT DID NOT CARE
Thanx for the vid man
Audi R8 2008..clutch at audi too expensive..wats the next closest match..please assist
8:02 "Dismammaled" 🗿
What would you recommend for a 15 wrx sti with a stage 2 tune
Miguel Eguigure stock replacement
The $2500 looks very nice but who's going to see it, unless they have a see through bell housing.?
Two grand and not even a multi-disk clutch?
Right of the bat
I need aftermarket high performance parts for my 1985 Nissan 300zx... Any shops/clubs near me in Montebello?
dxraaaaa eBay
Obviously if you go further in power you need a stronger disk plus more money!
Those Exedy OEM can handle a K swap with 190lb TQ. All day. Easy.
Thank you
there,s always something to learn!!
Exedy oem clutches aren't $100. More like 250-400
Yeah with shipping and everything my it cost my brother around 300$
difference between first and second, 6 rivets
Luk OE clutch kit and dual mass flywheel can't beat them
Metal is organic alloy my friend. You find more organic material in nicer clutches and less synthetic. Great vid though
Dang 2.5 k for a clutch, hope it come with installation.
Look at mantic lol
Awesome channel keep it up ended up watching so many of ur videos 👍
So many haters in the comment section
Do your thing Mike it only means your doing something right! please update us on the widow
I'm going to find what I'm going to find that I'm going to find.
let us know what you find wen you are going to find it.
what could happen if my clutch has a shudder and I just keep using it?
so what happened? did it blow up?\
@@jeffcurrie123 Nah I had to replace it, the car had a recall on cheap chinese clutches and the dealership too care of it.
this kid almost knows what he is talking about
South bend clutch or bust.
If anyone is spending $2000 on a clutch for their 115 wheel horse power civic you got some issues. How bout move the hell out of your moms apartment and spend money on rent and groceries. Not hating. Just a wake up call, so that later on you won’t regret how stupid you were spending big bucks on a stupid clutch. Peace y’all.
Good video
Light weight fly wheel and xtd clutch $150 betyer then what u got for 2500 lol
I see I see nice makes sense
Good explanation, but justifying 2500$ for clutch is not acceptable.
Ill paint the oem to a shiny pink color n say its a stage 75 made in PuertoRico.
let me get that 2,000 dollar clutch