Stainless Steel Wire - Dry Firing Tutorial
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2017
- This is a great simple way to get the hot spots out of your stainless steel builds. I wanted to show my whole process start to finish in this video with no edits so you can see just how easy it is to get a beautiful even firing stainless coil.
Specs on the wire: 3x28g/36g It's all LV 316L wire. 7 wraps @ 3 mm 0.368 Ohms
Thanks for the video ,always closing coils together and burning the life out of them. Thanks again vaping perfect now on t.c.
THANK YOU SO MUCH. I'm new to RTAs and have been struggling with coils I ordered (I didn't know they'd be SS). I'm still learning how to wick and stuff and I'd given up trying to get the SS coils to work in my Elevate. Spent two and half hours a few days ago trying. Watched your video and it worked. Thank you so much!!
TheRainbowWitch that’s awesome and 100% why I made this video in the first place. It puts a big smile on my face to know it’s still out there helping.
Great job! I learned some things and like the way you explained this a lot! sharing right now. ... Great work, friend!
Good video, thanks. There are so many videos out there where the guys fire the coils to a very bright red (to check a new coil or to clean for rewicking) and this lulled me into being complacent about this. Over time I learned on my own to be more conservative but I wish I came across your video a bunch of years ago.
Good advice here. Thank you. All the Best.
This video helped me a lot bro. Thank you!
I am sooo glad I stumbled across this video!I had the same experience with ss coils that I over pulsated,i was under the impression that you need to pulsate until the coils are orange in color lol!
Im responding to a quite old video here but ive been using ss316 clapton coils for 4 years and never knew about slow burning the coil to eradicate hot spots i just went ahead and burned at 45w untill got hotspots out ive never had any issues in taste always tastes perfect. Alternatively whenever i used Kanthal wire or Ni80 the cotton will break in the middle after about a tank full of vaping.
Great video.
nice video,
this is something that needs to be talked about, SS has grate flavor but can be harmful if misused...
good stuff, OP
Actually SS316L is ALOT safer than Ni80 or Kanthal A1. It is a food grade alloy and will not corrode with normal use. We just have to be careful with dry burning. Any metal that heats up will then form an oxide layer on its surface. Thumbs up to the video, safest way i have seen so far for coil installation.
harmful in what way bro?
@@gallahant the only issue is that overheating breaks down the oxide layer, which can then come loose and be inhaled. Much safer, with the caveat that you have to be careful to maintain that safety.
Thank you! I’ve just switched from titanium to ss and have been struggling with the horrible taste and knew that it could not possibly be good for me if it was burning my throat like that! So much so that I bought cigarettes yesterday as they seemed a healthier option!!! Time to start over.
If i wanna wash my used ss316L alien clapton coil... after 2 days using it... how it supposed to be?
So what kind of cutters should I get for 316L coils. When I have to cut them?
I have a 521 TAB mini v3
Is the fire button on it FOR dry firing and all that jazz? I'm scared to use my mod to do it. If I CAN use the tab, how long do I fire for? I'm using pre-made fused claptons, 8 wrap
36GX2/36G
3.5MM =0.34 OHM
316LSS
says dry burn 15-20watts so when I tried that on my mod nothing happened but it smelled. I'm not sure how I set up my mod to run power. I use out of the box watt mode and that's it. How long do I hold fire on mod if I use it to dry fire and strum etc? This is my first time ever.
Nice video, very informative before I try building with some my first time. Is that flat Clapton by chance? If not, your thoughts on it. That's what I am going to use. Was recommended for flavor
Cody Boise its 3x28/38 Triple core fused clapton. The flavor is far better on multiple cores vs a single flat/rectangular wire since it gives lots of channels and grooves for the juice to wick into. Working with 3 to 4 cores flat does take a little bit of experience and practice but the results are very much worth it.
I'm having a big problem every time I built with the SS fuse clapton I nven seem to get it to work they always short out.. what I'm I doing wrong.. but if I built with my Alien fuse clapton everything is alright..
Perhaps your coils are too big and it's causing a short by touching the atomizer casing? I had the same issue with a rta a while back and the build deck was way bigger than the space in the top cap when assembled.
Now that's one hell of a coincidence.Here I'm sitting vaping on my Druga with some Kanthal flat claptons and was thinking of rebuilding it with some Full SS 316l 4 strand fused Clapton from GeekVape but I never really got the hang of SS and every other video showed very simple builds like Plain single wire coils or low mass Claptons at best.Every time I've built with that wire while it gives me a clean flavor it always came with that sense in the mouth like you've just eaten a pineapple or lotus.You know what I'm saying?It feels like you're chewing on some kind of rubber I guess? and it leaves an acerbic aftertaste in the mouth and throat so I don't know if that kind of thing just comes with using Stainless or not.This video was all I needed though for the next time I need to change my coils.Thanks for sharing!
Δημήτρης Κουτσάκης If definitely sounds like the taste of oxidation. Can you do each person it taste a little different to me it taste like you sucked on a penny. Glad this could be of some assistance. Let me know if you need any help when you get to doing it.
Daniel Maupin Could be the Wattage I was pushing through it because last time I built a coil with such wire on the Pharaoh RDTA,I remember pretty vividly it had some reddish-brown hues on a couple of hotspots.It just needs a little attention when first dry-firing it which as a seasoned Kanthal only builder I can't :D.You can give Kanthal everything you got and it doesn't give a single damn,everything's fine.On SS though,that's a totally different story.Thanks for the instant feedback though,really appreciate it. :)
Δημήτρης Κουτσάκης yeah, you’re good if your used to building and working out hotspots. The only real difference with SS is just lower the power enough so you can stop firing before it glows beyond the low orange and you will never be Close to the 1200°F oxidation happens at. And get beautiful color too. If you do it somewhere that’s fairly dimly lit it’s super easy as well. Just takes a minute or two longer doing it slow is all. It’s actually a much better way to do Ka1/Ni80 too. Sure you don’t have to with them but it will show you the hotspots better going slow that you might not see just throwing everything you have at it.
Hi great tutorial!
Just one question is how does wattage change affect ciol when in
Temp control? Does it heat up more quickly , the higher the wattage gets?
What RDA is that? I really like the looks of it and those thumb screws too
William it’s an Augvape Druga the first one. I think there are a couple variations of it now but I haven’t tried them. The original is a nice deck to build on and can fit decently large coils. Works great bottle fed too. The only downside it has really is that it doesn’t have a single coil option for the airflow but that’s not too big a deal usually.
Great video man! Can I ask a question? How do you clean up the 316L? Is the same way that we use on khantal (fire em up and dip into the water)?
Yeah pretty much, just keep the glow down to the low orange and your fine. Don’t worry that your coil will be quite a bit more silver after cleaning as the color goes away some during use. I also use a little soft wire brush to get the stubborn stuff off every now and then.
Okay, thanks man for answering, auto subscribe, keep the good work!
Regi Baron no problem. Hit me up if you ever have questions on anything.
why does strumming work? i do it but i don't understand why brushing over it changes the electrical path. Also i stick my driver that i wrapped the coil with into the coil and slide it on the inside and that works to
Strumming works by creating a tiny amount of spacing in the coil. As the tweezers impact each coil as you strum them across them it spreads them a very tiny amount. This nearly microscopic spacing is just enough to keep the current from jumping from coil to coil instead of traveling around it as even the tiniest of space is significantly higher resistance than the coil.
because you are moving carbon particles ( that conduct ) to adjacent coil wraps.
Hi. I just wanted to ask. I brought a spool of SS fused Clapton from vandy vape. The wire quality looks good. But i attempted to build a while ago and i got very minimal flavour as well as a really bad chemical taste. After watching this i see i did over pulse which may have oxidised the coils. But my question is. Is SS known to bring good flavour if built correctly or is it normal to have some metal/chemical taste with them. Thanks
Hamzah tabani yes SS is supposed to provide very good flavor when dry burned properly. I went for a long time not knowing how to do and gave up on it because the flavor sucked but once I learned more I now get amazing flavor from SS.
Mr. Marchant Thank you for your reply. I think I was over pulsing the coils hence the oxidation of the coil giving a metal taste. Thanks to your video im not pulsing my coils at 70w anymore 👍🏻
Same for me, I bought 24, 26, 28 SS, tried it and got some very bad taste and really put me off. So, went bank to Kanthal A1 and staying away from the SS for now.
I hate how people say kenthal a1 thinking it's A+++++111 super cloud bro clouds. A1 is actually the 2nd best in performance 2nd to the d grade. D grade is better performance for vaping. A1 is just a grade. Doesn't mean it's a1 sir clouds bro clouds I swear I hate how retards go to vaping and think they know everything
alex Landz Vaping isn't something you should use to act more intelligent than others lol. We all have our personal preferences. It's not retarded at all to have a liking towards something you find works better for you.
can you just do the whole dry firing process in temp. control?
Keyser Söze no you shouldn't do ANY of it in TC. You must do it in VW then switch to TC after it's wicked. The whole purpose of TC is to heat it to the desired temp and keep it there as fast as possible and that's the opposite of what you want here. That's why I included that in the video that you need TC off to dry fire.
Daniel Maupin thanks
What about cleaning them?
Funny you mentioned the oxides being harmful, but ever mentioned lacquer being harmful ?
Please never strum your coils with a lacquered metal, you end und up inhaling lacquer !
Good point. The ends of mine are sanded to raw metal but didn’t remember to mention it.
I've never hear of SS wire coming off a spool with a laquer coating. It isn't even necessary with a 300 series wire because the corrosion resistance is so good and even if it did have a coating on them dryfiring them to a dull red glow would burn it all off and leave a bit of residue you could inhale off of them regardless of whether you strummed them or not.
Quentin Langley no one said the coils came with laquer.
Make it dual coil bro. its pain in my ass