Glad to hear you're feeling better bro. The Japanese have a term for the healing 'nature effect' you describe, it's called shinrin-yoku (forest bathing) and is a pretty common medical prescription in Japan for various illnesses. Love your connection with the analog process and thanks for sharing your experiences and insights.
Thanks for sharing, enjoyed the video. I checked out the link for extension tubes and noticed some had an “E” after the number. Example 32E can you explain the difference. I’m guessing they deal with type lenses but I’m not familiar with either. Very new to Hasselblad entirely I have no gear yet. Looking to make purchase and trying to learn how it all fits together. Thanks Matt
Yep! The dang wind 😂 ...was my exact experience a few days ago. Interestingly, I've been using a similar combination with my Hasselblad also. I think it's perfect for the images I want to make right now. The last two images you showed together, one with direct sunlight and then softer light - for me I personally like the one with the harsh light. I'm curious to see what prints you make from these. Your darkroom work is fantastic. Glad you're feeling better.
The wind is so frustrating for macro. Especially on film cause you are always wondering iso they will be sharp. I was surprised how much I like the harsh light image too. Thank you!
good video, but one caution you didn't mention, while assembling/taking down this kit, this is a sensitive bit of equipment!!, if the lens and tubes are connected to each other while NOT on the camera. ANY nudge will 'trip' the cocking linkage, and 'fire' the lens, and possibly jam the works!, esp. if this happens while assembling this to the body. so main rule, ONE item on the body at ONE time, assemble SLOWLY, tube, LENS, filter, etc. and dis-assemble the opposite way, LENS FIRST!!!, THEN tubes furthest from the body FIRST, then in order, one unit at a time, so if tubes are stacked, put each one on singly, NOT all at once, giving the 'gremlins' a chance to jam the works :-))
one tip, that on re-watching this, came to mind: BE careful when using macro ext. tubes, or tele extenders on this camera, the mechanics mean it can jam easy, if not done in the right order, BODY first, then after accessory, then lens; the spring which trips the jam is in the lens, so last on, first OFF, saves any mistakes; and ONE accessory at a time, otherwise it's certain to jam!!
@@Distphoto yes, there is ONE video on this; but a VERY important quirk of these that beginners to the system need to know and heed, esp. when one transitions to the 203cx, 205fcc and the 2000 series, as they have focal plane shutters (NB: the 'coin trick' cant work, as the cloth shutter is in the way, NO ACCESS to the screw drive!!).
great day for it, PS: the meter is called a reflected light meter, as opposed to one used for flash or colour measurement; However, as you had the 'dome' facing the CAMERA, and not at the subject, it is technically incident metering ( as the meter collects light just as the subject is, and without any colour casts{from the resultant reflection of subjects own colors}), so is a more correct system, and a 'true' exposure for the conditions of the day, as opposed to a 'metered scene' of the subject, accounting for contrast, etc. due to the subjects own colour pallette.
Glad to hear you're mostly recovered! I have a couple extension tubes for my Hasselblad as well, but need to get better at using them, think I'll give them a try again. I think you're up near Green Bay, but was curious what trails you were hitting up? Guessing you're north of the Kettles? I do quite a bit of trail running, so was curious.
Same here I have had them but they do not get used that much... they are fun to play with....But that wind :) Yes, I am in Green Bay. The trails are at Baird's Creek. Pretty awesome ride. I love the Kettles area but have not rode the trails. Been on my to-do for a while though!
No, the depth of field is usually pretty narrow even stopped down. Does depend a little on how close you are. Definitely can get better depth of field than I did here though. Was shooting pretty wide open to keep shutter up due to the wind.
Nice video bud. I have been playing around with the extension tubes and bellows I have for the 'blad over the last couple of weeks. The main issue I have is the split screen black out so you end up either trying to use the micro prism or guessing from the image on the screen itself. I also mixed up the metering between incident (Minolta), Spot (Pentax) and the prism head that you have. I have some nice images to play with in the darkroom when I get a moment. Look forward to seeing your results (another darkroom video please :) )
Yes, I have the curate screen and when something I want to focus on lands on one half I get confused....And often focus and recompose. I do like the split rangefinder style at times as it comes in handy! Will do, Thanks!
Why did you choose the hard lane with external lightmeter reading you have to correct by the extension factor as you can run with the TTL prism reading that takes account of the lens extention ?
good shots, two techniques which may help with the wind moving the flowers: one is to use a ring flash, this allows you to 'background expose' for the sun, yet use the fill-in of the flash to expose the flowers correctly, AT the flash duration of 1/8000th of a second, stopping the vibration; Two, shoot at a fast exposure, But do a multi-exposure, shooting when the wind is down, aka for 1/10th of a second metered, do 10 x 1/100th exposures, the fast shutter speed stops vibration, the multi-exposure gets the brightness you want.
Thanks for the tips! Had not thought of the multiple exposure... Could also maybe get interesting accidental shots as well! Will give this a go next time.
@@Distphoto yes that is a not well known trick, from LF lore, as in LF you don't have fast speeds (1/500th is top), or have the luxury of flash outdoors, so this is how they got by. also one other tip, look up 'Nonagram' for these, there is a picture of a 500 c side on, with a tube attached; this gives ALL data, close focus distances, exposure factors, with ALL early tubes/bellows / proxar closeup lenses, if you do get the 8/16/32 e tubes, there is a separate nonogram in the box, for these CFe/CFi lenses, particularly the 80 mm f2.8 (hint, these have two blue parallel lines on the lens/tube somewhere, also the tubes have an electronic block on the inside, STILL SAFE to use on older cameras, but this is for the 200/2000 series with electronic focal plane shutters).
@@Distphoto one thing I just thought of, a WARNING, to stop the camera advancing the film, during this 'multi-exposure' run, TAKE THE BACK OFF, THEN USE THE MAIN CRANK, otherwise the film advances automatically- unlike a bronica etr/sq which has a lever to disconnect the film winding drive, with hasselblads (V system) you do it yourself, by back removal.
@@Distphoto one 'out' for this is a 503cx or 205fcc (focal plane) these have a button 'clutch' like mamiya RB67 lenses[m-up system], to split the functions [but under the winding crank], so if in doubt about 'readiness' of the system, you can cock the body alone, without back removal a good time saver, But essential on bodies like the 2000 series, as their later shutters retracted on mag removal {to save scratching their titanium shutters}; in the 205 series they advanced this design with a cloth shutter, so removing this problem, and since this 'update', from what one sees on the internet at least, this fixed it, no more 'shutter gremlins'.
This is not exclusively for the photography part per se, but for the 'easy like life' talking to the nature, taking a bike ride..... and loading a film in between..
Well, great lens indeed. However, the optical formula of the C S-Planar 5.6/120mm is close, but not identical to the later CF/CFi/CFE Makro Planar 4/120mm.
I kind of hurried through the video, and having experience with Hasselblad, with extension tubes, I was surprised that you didn't mention opening up for the extension tubes. If you did say that, I apologize, as I said I hurried through it, mainly to view your photos.
@@josephvitovito Very awesome work! Love the lith printed trees 👍 love all of it! I absolutely love High contrast Lith Prints. Yours are amazing. If you don’t mind me asking what paper / dev do you like the most?
A most enjoyable journey, thank you.
@@earledeblonville Glad you enjoyed it, thank you!
Thank you. You have me inspired to return back to film photography with my Hasselblads .
Very cool to hear, thanks! So enjoyable to shoot 👍👍👍
Glad to hear you're feeling better bro. The Japanese have a term for the healing 'nature effect' you describe, it's called shinrin-yoku (forest bathing) and is a pretty common medical prescription in Japan for various illnesses. Love your connection with the analog process and thanks for sharing your experiences and insights.
Thats so interesting. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing, enjoyed the video. I checked out the link for extension tubes and noticed some had an “E” after the number. Example 32E can you explain the difference. I’m guessing they deal with type lenses but I’m not familiar with either. Very new to Hasselblad entirely I have no gear yet. Looking to make purchase and trying to learn how it all fits together. Thanks Matt
Your welcome! The E marks tubes that have electrical contacts on the lens and lens mount for communication with certain bodies.
Glad to see you're back on the mend!
Thanks, Glad too be!
Great video - Keep up your recovery, and thanks for sharing this !!
Thank you, I plan on it!
Thank you so much for great video
You’re welcome, thank you!
Nice demonstration and good reminder of the right handling to avoid jamming 👍😃
Thank you!
Great video, hope you are soon fit again.
How much have you compensated through the tubes? So how much stop light have they taken?
I do not get too concerned with it on HP5, but for the longer roughly 2/3 stop and stacked about a stop.
Perfect combinations MTB and Hassy, Love it.
Couldn't agree more! But man film gear can be heavy :)
Yep! The dang wind 😂 ...was my exact experience a few days ago. Interestingly, I've been using a similar combination with my Hasselblad also. I think it's perfect for the images I want to make right now. The last two images you showed together, one with direct sunlight and then softer light - for me I personally like the one with the harsh light. I'm curious to see what prints you make from these. Your darkroom work is fantastic. Glad you're feeling better.
The wind is so frustrating for macro. Especially on film cause you are always wondering iso they will be sharp. I was surprised how much I like the harsh light image too. Thank you!
@@Distphoto I hope we can see more videos with the Hasselblad in the future.
@@Distphoto what kind of tri-pod is that?
@@bennipucher4074 it is an Induro carbon Fiber version 👍
good video, but one caution you didn't mention, while assembling/taking down this kit, this is a sensitive bit of equipment!!, if the lens and tubes are connected to each other while NOT on the camera. ANY nudge will 'trip' the cocking linkage, and 'fire' the lens, and possibly jam the works!, esp. if this happens while assembling this to the body.
so main rule, ONE item on the body at ONE time, assemble SLOWLY, tube, LENS, filter, etc. and dis-assemble the opposite way, LENS FIRST!!!, THEN tubes furthest from the body FIRST, then in order, one unit at a time, so if tubes are stacked, put each one on singly, NOT all at once, giving the 'gremlins' a chance to jam the works :-))
Thanks for the input. Yes this can bite you if you do it wrong.
one tip, that on re-watching this, came to mind: BE careful when using macro ext. tubes, or tele extenders on this camera, the mechanics mean it can jam easy, if not done in the right order, BODY first, then after accessory, then lens; the spring which trips the jam is in the lens, so last on, first OFF, saves any mistakes; and ONE accessory at a time, otherwise it's certain to jam!!
Thank you, This is important and can save a LOT of frustration.
@@Distphoto yes, there is ONE video on this; but a VERY important quirk of these that beginners to the system need to know and heed, esp. when one transitions to the 203cx, 205fcc and the 2000 series, as they have focal plane shutters (NB: the 'coin trick' cant work, as the cloth shutter is in the way, NO ACCESS to the screw drive!!).
Cool video! Thanks for sharing!
Your welcome. Thanks!
great day for it, PS: the meter is called a reflected light meter, as opposed to one used for flash or colour measurement; However, as you had the 'dome' facing the CAMERA, and not at the subject, it is technically incident metering ( as the meter collects light just as the subject is, and without any colour casts{from the resultant reflection of subjects own colors}), so is a more correct system, and a 'true' exposure for the conditions of the day, as opposed to a 'metered scene' of the subject, accounting for contrast, etc. due to the subjects own colour pallette.
Thanks for the insight!
Glad to hear you're mostly recovered!
I have a couple extension tubes for my Hasselblad as well, but need to get better at using them, think I'll give them a try again.
I think you're up near Green Bay, but was curious what trails you were hitting up? Guessing you're north of the Kettles? I do quite a bit of trail running, so was curious.
Same here I have had them but they do not get used that much... they are fun to play with....But that wind :)
Yes, I am in Green Bay. The trails are at Baird's Creek. Pretty awesome ride. I love the Kettles area but have not rode the trails. Been on my to-do for a while though!
such a cool macro with hassy. I just found your channel while searching for extiosion tube for my hassy 😱
Awesome. Glad you found it! Have fun with the Hassy!
@@Distphoto for sure 👻
That looks like a sweet hasselblad setup! Are you ever able to get full depth of field with that setup at macro distances?
No, the depth of field is usually pretty narrow even stopped down. Does depend a little on how close you are.
Definitely can get better depth of field than I did here though. Was shooting pretty wide open to keep shutter up due to the wind.
@@Distphoto ok thanks heaps. I do like deep depth of field so perhaps better sticking with digital for macro and focus stacking 👍
@@progtom7585 def gonna work better for that!
Nice video bud. I have been playing around with the extension tubes and bellows I have for the 'blad over the last couple of weeks. The main issue I have is the split screen black out so you end up either trying to use the micro prism or guessing from the image on the screen itself. I also mixed up the metering between incident (Minolta), Spot (Pentax) and the prism head that you have. I have some nice images to play with in the darkroom when I get a moment. Look forward to seeing your results (another darkroom video please :) )
Yes, I have the curate screen and when something I want to focus on lands on one half I get confused....And often focus and recompose. I do like the split rangefinder style at times as it comes in handy! Will do, Thanks!
Why did you choose the hard lane with external lightmeter reading you have to correct by the extension factor as you can run with the TTL prism reading that takes account of the lens extention ?
I actually used both. Just checked to see if they matched up. And they did 👍. Other than that no real reason but was not in a hurry.
good shots, two techniques which may help with the wind moving the flowers: one is to use a ring flash, this allows you to 'background expose' for the sun, yet use the fill-in of the flash to expose the flowers correctly, AT the flash duration of 1/8000th of a second, stopping the vibration; Two, shoot at a fast exposure, But do a multi-exposure, shooting when the wind is down, aka for 1/10th of a second metered, do 10 x 1/100th exposures, the fast shutter speed stops vibration, the multi-exposure gets the brightness you want.
Thanks for the tips! Had not thought of the multiple exposure... Could also maybe get interesting accidental shots as well! Will give this a go next time.
@@Distphoto yes that is a not well known trick, from LF lore, as in LF you don't have fast speeds (1/500th is top), or have the luxury of flash outdoors, so this is how they got by.
also one other tip, look up 'Nonagram' for these, there is a picture of a 500 c side on, with a tube attached; this gives ALL data, close focus distances, exposure factors, with ALL early tubes/bellows / proxar closeup lenses, if you do get the 8/16/32 e tubes, there is a separate nonogram in the box, for these CFe/CFi lenses, particularly the 80 mm f2.8 (hint, these have two blue parallel lines on the lens/tube somewhere, also the tubes have an electronic block on the inside, STILL SAFE to use on older cameras, but this is for the 200/2000 series with electronic focal plane shutters).
@@Distphoto one thing I just thought of, a WARNING, to stop the camera advancing the film, during this 'multi-exposure' run, TAKE THE BACK OFF, THEN USE THE MAIN CRANK, otherwise the film advances automatically- unlike a bronica etr/sq which has a lever to disconnect the film winding drive, with hasselblads (V system) you do it yourself, by back removal.
@@andyvan5692 Yes it is a bit cumbersome to do multiple exposures on the 500 cm but you can get it done. Thanks!
@@Distphoto one 'out' for this is a 503cx or 205fcc (focal plane) these have a button 'clutch' like mamiya RB67 lenses[m-up system], to split the functions [but under the winding crank], so if in doubt about 'readiness' of the system, you can cock the body alone, without back removal a good time saver, But essential on bodies like the 2000 series, as their later shutters retracted on mag removal {to save scratching their titanium shutters}; in the 205 series they advanced this design with a cloth shutter, so removing this problem, and since this 'update', from what one sees on the internet at least, this fixed it, no more 'shutter gremlins'.
This is not exclusively for the photography part per se, but for the 'easy like life' talking to the nature, taking a bike ride..... and loading a film in between..
Wow! I’ve only used extensions at home, but with surprising success - Phase One and Mamiya. Not sure I’d combine medium format with cycling though!
It was a bit more work than I anticipated 🤷🏻♂️
What are you using to calculate exposure compensation for the extension tubes? Thanks.
There is a Hasselblad extention calculator online I use as a guide.
Well, great lens indeed. However, the optical formula of the C S-Planar 5.6/120mm is close, but not identical to the later CF/CFi/CFE Makro Planar 4/120mm.
Thanks, I have come across conflicting info but would imagine they are slightly different. Will have to update that in the other video description…
I kind of hurried through the video, and having experience with Hasselblad, with extension tubes, I was surprised that you didn't mention opening up for the extension tubes. If you did say that, I apologize, as I said I hurried through it, mainly to view your photos.
I did give more exposure for the tubes 👍
@@josephvitovito Very awesome work! Love the lith printed trees 👍 love all of it!
I absolutely love High contrast Lith Prints. Yours are amazing. If you don’t mind me asking what paper / dev do you like the most?
@@Distphoto thanks for taking a look.
A lot of equipment but, no water!!! Jajajajaja!!! Next step... learn how to filter water!!! jajajajaj. Great video!!!
Thanks! I should look into that :)
No shot see ya
I am not interested in cars, covid, water bottles etc