Nice tutorial. That's basically my exact setup, except with an old Photogenic studio flash. I also got an extra transmitter, and stuck it on my Fuji X-E1 to proof the lighting setup and exposure of my shots. I feel a bit dirty doing this, but it's basically what a Polaroid back did back in the day, so what the hell 😂
I do the same thing with my digital... It is a great way to see the lighting patterns etc... But do know how you feel. At the same time feel it is foolish not too 👍🏻
I shot with my 500 c/m for the first time yesterday. I used my Einstein’s and Buff transmitter and receiver. I purchased a pc sync-hotshoe adapter and put the transmitter on that. Every time I released the shutter, the flash would fire like 20 times rapidly. No idea what’s up with that and no clue of the pics will even turn out.
That sucks. First thing I would do is try a different cable. They are notoriously finicky and it is good to have a backup on hand. Not sure if the adapter, would be best to have the cable go from lens to trigger if possible.
The ATG/Sony systems mean what you are describing is no longer true about flash photography. ATG & Frank owned Hasselblad. They got many people on the pink slips because Hasselblad & Zeiss didn't want to change /or improve. Lenses are no longer Zeiss. Now, it's better, it ATG/Fuji.
For some reason I get confused when you're measuring the ambient light outdoors but want to both control the flash and make intentional adjustments to the brightness of the subject as it relates. Can you recommend anything to help wrap your head around that? I'm familiar with doing it in digital, but for some reason film is tripping me up. Great video though!
You just need to think in aperature stops and leave the shutter speed fixed. If the scene calls for f-8 to be properly exposed and you want it darker stop the lens down to f-11. That will darken down the scene 1 stop. Then add flash power on your subject to read f-11 on your flash meter and shoot at f-11. Subject will be lit properly by the light and background will go 1 stop under exposed. ND filters can be handy as well.
It is confusing. My comments are related to shooting outdoor only. Memorize “Aperture controls flash, shutter controls ambient.” Yes, aperture will control ambient too in combination with shutter setting. So if you start with 1/125 at f8, and the flash is too bright but you like the ambient exposure, the solution would be to use f11 (as a test to see if that gives the right flash look) but also open the shutter to 1/60. In that example your ambient exposure will remain the same, but the flash will get 1/2 the previous value. You can run a dry run with a digital camera, then switch to a film camera once you have the right look. If you know why, it is easier to understand. The reason the shutter doesn’t matter with flash(and I am intentionally ignoring the whole max flash sync speed with focal plane shutters, because his video is about using leaf shutters, which sync at all speeds) is that the moment the flash is firing is happening at like 1/8000 of a second. So, with your shutter speed set at 1/125, or 1/500, either way the flash has completed its cycle within those speeds. This is technical but you will get it if you work on it!
On a bright sunny day I'd rather use slower film, say something like Pan F or Adox, perhaps even pulled down, than ND filter that can always cause some sort of deterioration of the final image, from my experience. Bonus point is, with those film stocks and techniques, you can get (much) smaller grain and deeper dynamic range. Just saying...
Totally agree. However, sometimes I like the grainier feel from 400 ish negs... and in portraits I am not typically after "more" Dynamic range, but yeah if you want sharper and finer grained those films are awesome and will make amazing portraits!
great video, but also one thing to state, HS, which Broncolor uses is DIFFERENT to HSS (hi speed sync). HS (HY-Sync) is a way MF digital/film cameras dealt with this sync issue "in the day" before HSS was invented, Broncolor and Profoto do explain this in some of their videos, but essentially it works like this: instead of a 'rapid fire' or burst of flash, the HY Sync attempted to increase flash duration (aka not 1/20,000th of a second, but less) this allowed the 'blast' of flash to be approx the same time as the exposure time, aka endure the 1/800\1/500th of a second max shutter speed, for Leaf shutters, the way it did this was a 'redesign' of how the capacitors of the pack flash systems discharged, it used a different voltage/ W\s calculation to allow for this power extension; like the li-on batteries do with internal re-wiring for transport (done by the transport cap) this is what happened when you hit the "speed" or HS function buttons on the pack, it switched out circuit components to do this discharge/charge cycle different to "normal operation", and hence why this difference, between 'pro' and consumer flash systems.
@@Distphoto yes, I imagine ( I am no expert, just a passionate person, who has Autism, and researches a lot), that the hy in hy sync stood for this, but the 'timing' is a digital thing, to account for modern ttl pre-flash, as the ttl had to 'compute' the exposure, based on the lens apature,asa\iso of sensor and film, etc, and 'send' this data to the flash concerned (the pre-flash, essentially a wifi shot, or data packet), each system cannon, Nikon, sony did a diferent 'protocol' in network speak, so these agnostic systems needed to adapt to this, so the basic "fire" command, for film and leaf shuttered cameras can be timed correctly, to the right 'shot' of light from the flashgun/radio trigger in use. These 'old school pro' flash systems were in simple speak just a 'capacitor circuit' which has an electrical relay to dump the charge, when the ir, radio or pc cable closed another relay to send the trigger current to the main 'fire' circiut relay, closing the main contacts, sending the 300/400 Volt charge through the main cable to the light head. That is why only basic cameras can be connected directly to these systems, and you need a Pocket Wizzard to fire them using digital cameras ( this high voltage can damage the delicate Micro-processor chips inside the digital sensor circuits, so some distance must be maintained between this "high side" voltage, and the LOW voltage trigger side), like a stick welder's transformer, a 'rouge' current can jump this gap, so the radio trigger gives the digital side an insulated contact to this system, and only the 'reciever' has physical contact with the trigger circuit, acting as a radio wave to analogue dc voltage convertor.
Thank you so much for a very informative and easy to understand video. I have been very "afraid" of using flash, especially on my Hassy, but I think this video made me closer to actually move forward on that matter.
Yeah, for sure! For the Phottix triggers the transmitter uses a standard p.c. size. This one here - amzn.to/3QzrPjg. I also use the smaller 2.5mm for my Paul C buff Triggers. This one - amzn.to/3Qf80fJ. The pc port does not thread into the lens port but does make a good solid contact. I have a couple of backups as these do tend to fail at times. Hope that helps!
You're welcome! The two are similar. However the RZ I believe is much more electrical in how the camera works. I believe there is a switch that needs to be set to the sync method. But overall the same idea. The fastest sync speed might be different as well. Been a long time since I used the RZ so do not know the specific speed off hand.
@@Distphoto Ok, thank you so much for taking the time to reply, going to investigate as well but your video is super informative and gives me a good direction. Cheers !
U are totally wrong (used to be correct). Because my ATG Gold camera can shoot flash sync to *80,000! Yes, that is correct without using HSS. HSS means you loses a lot of light power. * That's 1/80,000 of a normal (basic) flash/monolight sync! And you are corect tha 500 series can sync up to 500. No camera can sync up to 80,000 for less than 7K!
@@Distphoto I said my camera can shoot 1/80,000 of flash sync without using HSS. While it is true that most camera to get 1/8,000 using HSS. But there is no power from it. Many have to cheat & bumped up the ASA/ISO into thousands & open up all the way on lenses. Try your test at ASA/ISO100 at F8.0 or higher & subject to flash is 10 feet. Good luck on 80ws getting the shot
My flashes and cameras have done everything I need for what I normally shoot. I have never really needed faster sync or stronger flashes. Faster recycle times are nice but that is only if I am firing faster than I should anyway. I do use much more powerfull than 80 ws flashes and would find that inadequate at times Thanks for the info. Tech is geiitng super crazy. I will read up on the ATG & Sony In the case of the Hasselblad I love that it can snyc at all speeds!@@angelisone
@@DistphotoAt the time, the Hasselblad & ATG Rolleiflex can sync to 500. While many 35mm can do 60 & some later 125 or 225/250. Did you know ATG made a camera with Sony to sync up to 2,000! Then stop because conflicted with Nikon. Do you know what camera I am talking about? 2024, under the brand name of Sony with a price tag of $6,900.11 by ATG will be out. ATG's non rolling shutter ATG's flash sync without HSS to 80,000 I pre-paid ATG $2,000.00 to have this model to be converted in an IR camera.
Thanks!
Thank you Andrey!
Thank you so much this was so helpful. What viewfinder are you using?
You are welcome, thanks for watching and the feedback! It is the PME 3 - the metered version 👍🏻
Great vid. Thanks
Your welcome Michael!
These tips and instructions very useful, thank you for sharing ❤❤
No problem 👍Thank you!
Nice tutorial. That's basically my exact setup, except with an old Photogenic studio flash. I also got an extra transmitter, and stuck it on my Fuji X-E1 to proof the lighting setup and exposure of my shots. I feel a bit dirty doing this, but it's basically what a Polaroid back did back in the day, so what the hell 😂
I do the same thing with my digital... It is a great way to see the lighting patterns etc... But do know how you feel. At the same time feel it is foolish not too 👍🏻
I shot with my 500 c/m for the first time yesterday. I used my Einstein’s and Buff transmitter and receiver. I purchased a pc sync-hotshoe adapter and put the transmitter on that. Every time I released the shutter, the flash would fire like 20 times rapidly. No idea what’s up with that and no clue of the pics will even turn out.
That sucks. First thing I would do is try a different cable. They are notoriously finicky and it is good to have a backup on hand. Not sure if the adapter, would be best to have the cable go from lens to trigger if possible.
Thanks for this good video. Just letting you know the eBay links do not work.
Thanks, will take a look!
The ATG/Sony systems mean what you are describing is no longer true about flash photography.
ATG & Frank owned Hasselblad. They got many people on the pink slips because Hasselblad & Zeiss didn't want to change /or improve. Lenses are no longer Zeiss. Now, it's better, it ATG/Fuji.
For some reason I get confused when you're measuring the ambient light outdoors but want to both control the flash and make intentional adjustments to the brightness of the subject as it relates. Can you recommend anything to help wrap your head around that? I'm familiar with doing it in digital, but for some reason film is tripping me up. Great video though!
You just need to think in aperature stops and leave the shutter speed fixed. If the scene calls for f-8 to be properly exposed and you want it darker stop the lens down to f-11. That will darken down the scene 1 stop. Then add flash power on your subject to read f-11 on your flash meter and shoot at f-11. Subject will be lit properly by the light and background will go 1 stop under exposed. ND filters can be handy as well.
It is confusing. My comments are related to shooting outdoor only.
Memorize “Aperture controls flash, shutter controls ambient.” Yes, aperture will control ambient too in combination with shutter setting.
So if you start with 1/125 at f8, and the flash is too bright but you like the ambient exposure, the solution would be to use f11 (as a test to see if that gives the right flash look) but also open the shutter to 1/60. In that example your ambient exposure will remain the same, but the flash will get 1/2 the previous value. You can run a dry run with a digital camera, then switch to a film camera once you have the right look.
If you know why, it is easier to understand. The reason the shutter doesn’t matter with flash(and I am intentionally ignoring the whole max flash sync speed with focal plane shutters, because his video is about using leaf shutters, which sync at all speeds) is that the moment the flash is firing is happening at like 1/8000 of a second. So, with your shutter speed set at 1/125, or 1/500, either way the flash has completed its cycle within those speeds.
This is technical but you will get it if you work on it!
Great tips. Love the backdrop you set up!
Thanks Joseph!
On a bright sunny day I'd rather use slower film, say something like Pan F or Adox, perhaps even pulled down, than ND filter that can always cause some sort of deterioration of the final image, from my experience. Bonus point is, with those film stocks and techniques, you can get (much) smaller grain and deeper dynamic range. Just saying...
Totally agree. However, sometimes I like the grainier feel from 400 ish negs... and in portraits I am not typically after "more" Dynamic range, but yeah if you want sharper and finer grained those films are awesome and will make amazing portraits!
Now, please do one that you can fire & wirelessly adjust your speedlight /or monolight taught by ATG?
Not sure what ATG is?
Thanks for the info .... what model ( canon, Nikon ) of phottix strato are you using with you're set up
This is the Canon version 👍
great video, but also one thing to state, HS, which Broncolor uses is DIFFERENT to HSS (hi speed sync).
HS (HY-Sync) is a way MF digital/film cameras dealt with this sync issue "in the day" before HSS was invented, Broncolor and Profoto do explain this in some of their videos, but essentially it works like this: instead of a 'rapid fire' or burst of flash, the HY Sync attempted to increase flash duration (aka not 1/20,000th of a second, but less) this allowed the 'blast' of flash to be approx the same time as the exposure time, aka endure the 1/800\1/500th of a second max shutter speed, for Leaf shutters, the way it did this was a 'redesign' of how the capacitors of the pack flash systems discharged, it used a different voltage/ W\s calculation to allow for this power extension; like the li-on batteries do with internal re-wiring for transport (done by the transport cap) this is what happened when you hit the "speed" or HS function buttons on the pack, it switched out circuit components to do this discharge/charge cycle different to "normal operation", and hence why this difference, between 'pro' and consumer flash systems.
Thanks Andy! Super Interesting, Is this different from the hyper sync or timing adjustments with the older Pocket Wizards and such?
@@Distphoto yes, I imagine ( I am no expert, just a passionate person, who has Autism, and researches a lot), that the hy in hy sync stood for this, but the 'timing' is a digital thing, to account for modern ttl pre-flash, as the ttl had to 'compute' the exposure, based on the lens apature,asa\iso of sensor and film, etc, and 'send' this data to the flash concerned (the pre-flash, essentially a wifi shot, or data packet), each system cannon, Nikon, sony did a diferent 'protocol' in network speak, so these agnostic systems needed to adapt to this, so the basic "fire" command, for film and leaf shuttered cameras can be timed correctly, to the right 'shot' of light from the flashgun/radio trigger in use.
These 'old school pro' flash systems were in simple speak just a 'capacitor circuit' which has an electrical relay to dump the charge, when the ir, radio or pc cable closed another relay to send the trigger current to the main 'fire' circiut relay, closing the main contacts, sending the 300/400 Volt charge through the main cable to the light head.
That is why only basic cameras can be connected directly to these systems, and you need a Pocket Wizzard to fire them using digital cameras ( this high voltage can damage the delicate Micro-processor chips inside the digital sensor circuits, so some distance must be maintained between this "high side" voltage, and the LOW voltage trigger side), like a stick welder's transformer, a 'rouge' current can jump this gap, so the radio trigger gives the digital side an insulated contact to this system, and only the 'reciever' has physical contact with the trigger circuit, acting as a radio wave to analogue dc voltage convertor.
Thank you so much for a very informative and easy to understand video. I have been very "afraid" of using flash, especially on my Hassy, but I think this video made me closer to actually move forward on that matter.
Thanks Mattias, Awesome to hear!
Thanks!
@@SteveMillerhuntingforfood Thank you!
Any chance you could include a link to the sync cord. Really struggling to find one. Thanks
Yeah, for sure! For the Phottix triggers the transmitter uses a standard p.c. size. This one here - amzn.to/3QzrPjg. I also use the smaller 2.5mm for my Paul C buff Triggers. This one - amzn.to/3Qf80fJ. The pc port does not thread into the lens port but does make a good solid contact. I have a couple of backups as these do tend to fail at times. Hope that helps!
Thank you very much!
Thank you this is very informative !! Does it work the same with a RZ 67 ? thank you!!!
You're welcome! The two are similar. However the RZ I believe is much more electrical in how the camera works. I believe there is a switch that needs to be set to the sync method. But overall the same idea. The fastest sync speed might be different as well. Been a long time since I used the RZ so do not know the specific speed off hand.
@@Distphoto Ok, thank you so much for taking the time to reply, going to investigate as well but your video is super informative and gives me a good direction. Cheers !
Thank you. Just what I needed.
@@CaitrionaReed Glad it helped 👍
Amazing! Thank you very much
You are welcome!
You're the best, man!
Appreciate that!
Great information!
Appreciated, thanks!
U are totally wrong (used to be correct). Because my ATG Gold camera can shoot flash sync to *80,000!
Yes, that is correct without using HSS. HSS means you loses a lot of light power.
* That's 1/80,000 of a normal (basic) flash/monolight sync!
And you are corect tha 500 series can sync up to 500. No camera can sync up to 80,000 for less than 7K!
Did not say 80,000. Said 1/8000 and I shoot this with my cameras all the time in hss
@@Distphoto I said my camera can shoot 1/80,000 of flash sync without using HSS.
While it is true that most camera to get 1/8,000 using HSS. But there is no power from it.
Many have to cheat & bumped up the ASA/ISO into thousands & open up all the way on lenses.
Try your test at ASA/ISO100 at F8.0 or higher & subject to flash is 10 feet. Good luck on 80ws getting the shot
Again, after in the pre-mid 2024, ATG/Sony can make photographers & video shooters come true.
My flashes and cameras have done everything I need for what I normally shoot.
I have never really needed faster sync or stronger flashes. Faster recycle times are nice but that is only if I am firing faster than I should anyway. I do use much more powerfull than 80 ws flashes and would find that inadequate at times
Thanks for the info. Tech is geiitng super crazy. I will read up on the ATG & Sony
In the case of the Hasselblad I love that it can snyc at all speeds!@@angelisone
@@DistphotoAt the time, the Hasselblad & ATG Rolleiflex can sync to 500.
While many 35mm can do 60 & some later 125 or 225/250.
Did you know ATG made a camera with Sony to sync up to 2,000! Then stop because conflicted with Nikon. Do you know what camera I am talking about?
2024, under the brand name of Sony with a price tag of $6,900.11 by ATG will be out.
ATG's non rolling shutter
ATG's flash sync without HSS to 80,000
I pre-paid ATG $2,000.00 to have this model to be converted in an IR camera.