I like to explain those type of cracks as an implosion of the wood. That space used to be taken up by moisture, and now that it's gone, it's almost impossible to clamp the crack closed. The wood split by shrinking away from the crack, so that part of the board is technically gone
Whether or not the repair holds I'd love to see a one year later update if your brother is ok with it. You can always learn something by long term observation.
Woodworking, aka how to hide and minimize all the mistakes you make. Sometimes you even make stuff you really like! As you learn what mistakes have been made you make fewer mistakes and the product comes out better. If you don't make mistakes you aren't learning.
I recently did series of similar fills, and if you’d had more time I’d recommend doing a thin pour, just enough to coat the surfaces, first, to reduce the likelihood of leaks. Then fill the rest. This also reduces the likelihood of visible air bubbles in the final pour, in cases where that matters. Great episode!
I love how your new space is coming along. The sound is a lot better, and those panels add some visual interest to the background. A big improvement over the bare walls.
Perfect! I just got a folding picnic table off the street, it had a huge crack in it. I'm delighted to find your video because the table is not expensive, and not worth spending too much time, effort or money on it; this seems to be the right type of repair for me.
In woodworking you do what works. There are always lots of ways to solve a problem. It's refreshing to see a simple and practical solution. In my opinion those are always the best. Love this channel
You went with what was my first impulse for how to fix this. I'm now hoping that we, maybe on your next visit, get a followup demonstrating how this fix has held up.
One of the best comments I ever heard in a shop (we were making armor, not woodworking, but still, I think this applies): "How did you measure that?" "I guessed" "What? You have to measure that!!" "Look, we're not Martin Marietta, and this isn't the space shuttle. I eyeballed it. Deal!" Good job on the repair. That's not the way I would have tackled it, but that fact alone gives me more information to chew on. Well done!
Awesome work, Rex! 😃 Something to note is that you can use anything to give color to the epoxy. I've seen people using even crushed charcoal! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Beautiful job on that split! This is why I love watching your show - you do such a great job of showing how you can improvise and use other techniques to fix a problem.
Well, kudos to me and to you! I just fixed a bigger split in a slab of Rainbow Poplar the same way. Except I used dowels out if my kit and no epoxy yet. Freakin blazing hot here in central Florida. I'm going to mix up a batch with pearl white pigment and coat all the crack sides then come back to fill with a swirled mix of teal, blues, and greens. All for an end table out of a junk board I got free at the sawmill. We'll see what we see! Thanks.
When pouring epoxy, I have found that House Wrap Tape works MUCH better than Blue tape. It sticks to the wood with a better grip and is MUCH less likely to leak.
I applaud you Rex. You were given a challenge and you did what you thought was the best thing to do. Who cares what anyone else on the internet thinks! In the end, your brother was happy with the work you did. That's what matters.
Aluminum tape works great for resin since its more ridgid. But it does have a sticky glue residue so keep that in mind. I have put it over top of blue tape in a few cases
got a question for you , i'm a hobbyist woodworker, i use mainly hand tools , thats why i love all your videos. recently started making walking canes , bending the wood with open flame after soaking the branches for a few days in water. sometimes while bending , i'' ll get a split on the top of the bend , ill try to warm it up again , glue it and tie it with strong wire and let it dry , for a few months as the wood dries out . is there something else i could do to strengthen that split spot so that it doesnt open up in the future?? thanks for your help
Drill a hole in the bottom of the dowel and another on the side. When you hammer the dowel it'll be the same as with a split but the glue will fill the small holes.
Looks like a great repair and the dowels seem like a good idea to me. I'm interested to see it after the sanding/ restaining and after next summer for comparison.
Nice fix. Nothing wrong with what Rex did here. My two cents on what I would do additionally based on my experience: Add a UV inhibiting pigment to protect the epoxy from Ultraviolet rays that penetrate and degrade the epoxy resin over time, clean and scuff or score the inside surfaces to promote adhesion(maybe I missed that Rex did this step) and I would wear disposable gloves to avoid any contact with the epoxy resin as allergic reactions can develope from repeated exposure to un-cured epoxy. I still think his fix is sufficient and will last years.
Was the crack caused by the slabs shrinkage being restricted by the large cross member the slab is screwed to? Remove the legs and cross members, fix the crack (which may now close properly), refit the cross members, leaving room for movement and then fit the legs.
Sometimes, you can just use epoxy mixed with sawdust and just fill in the gaps…then sand it smooth. Other times, you can counter-sink decking screws, from underneath, (paired Elmer’s wood glue) to pull it back together. Then add wood-filler to fill in the screw holes/thin lines left over, and sand it.
Thanks, very useful, I learn a lot from your videos. May I ask a question: if the wood is completely sealed with some coating, will that prevent the movements from external humidity and from internal drying?
Great job Rex. A passing thought. Initially the crack is explained by the knot. Whats possibility of cutting out the knot, doing the clamp and glue, then put a bowtie or football where the knot was.
I’m glad your brother likes it, and glad you could fix it! But man, he got taken to the movies on that table haha, beside it not being dried properly the construction looks a little shoddy.
it's a really good repair considering it's something you didn't expect to work on, had limited time to do, and hardly had any tools appropriate for the type of work
Neat fix! Though I do kinda think you'd want to stabilize the crack a lot further down where it's forming, if possible. This should last a while though, and I hope we get to see it after refinishing. Thanks! (Also, you nearly made me spit out my beverage when you enthusiastically bleep-swore. Was not expecting that, lol!)
Would it have helped anything if you had drilled out the knot? I realize the imposition on aesthetics, but would there have been a structural improvement?
I have a large redwood live edge table that has been stored several years. It has epoxy applied over the top however the bottom is unfinished. The crack is visible through the finish as a gap however it has not surfaced yet. I need something that remains fairly runny and sets slowly to seal the crack from beneath and hopefully stabilize the crack in the future preventing the crack from revealing itself on the top and through the finish. Any suggestions for a suitable product would be appreciated.
You're an experienced woodworker, so you may be comfortable risking your hands with a spade bit, but probably not the best idea. Easier to figure out the depth and mark it on the bit, then no fingers need to come anywhere near a rotating blade that easily has the power to take them off. You may think I'm just being overly cautious, but take it from someone who doesn't have all their digits, it's not worth it. It just isn't. Otherwise great job.
I completely agree, next year will be the fortieth anniversary of me losing an index finger to a revolving drill blade (industrial trepanning drill with a defective guard) which is a real long time to ponder on "I sure wish I'd kept my finger clear of that drill!". Rex, I absolutely commend your 'we learn by trying things' philosophy, but in this case The Sky Forge and myself have already taken this painful lesson for you... It's just not worth taking the risk when there is a safer practical alternative. I also thought 'Hey I'm sure it'll be okay"... right up until it wasn't!
@@doczoff5655 Amen Brother! That's exactly how it goes. Everything is ok until it isn't. And many years to think about the consequences. Thanks for the support!
Ok, so let's have it straight: 0:35 "[...] I am kind of on vacation [...]", 3:36 "[...] I only brought one saw with me [...]" - question is "who on vacation takes saw in the first place?", it's like a Dexter kind of thing... "All right, than. Keep your secrets" mem.
I will say as someone who used famawood epoxy and the good and bad is it never really gets hard if you leave a plate or something on it long enough you dent that shape into the epoxy. what may be good about that is it mean it can handle some wood movement. i made the mistake years ago to do a small pour on a small table round the didn't seal the bottom about a 2ft round of cherry laminate boards and it looked like a potato chip around 1/2in lift on both side from the center. after a few weeks it went back flat an the epoxy handled that with no issue. shortly after noticing a dent from leaving a plate on it. that mainly went away you could still make out some of it. then the piece got direct sunlight and had a 1in round bubble from moisture trying to escape probably at least a 1/4in high. it went back down but you could clearly see the spot. it became wall art and i sold it. last i heard on the wall and not being touch or in the sunlight and it's doing great at that. famawood has its times and places but i generally hate that its labeled as a counter top bar top. spend 20% more money and you can get some really decent epoxy. also pigment it really ideal for outdoor UV is so hard on epoxy something blocking the uv a bit helps prevent yellowing though thats going to happen eventually. UV coatings help but its kinda the nature of the beast. For this application its not the best for famawood but hell its better then before and being just a crack it probably not going to dent noticeable until it does.
My guess would be the cause of the split is how the top is attached to the legs. There is a 2 x 4 whose long grain is running 90 degrees to the long grain of the top.. It appears to be screwed on with round holes which would not allow the top to move. I'd think you'd need to remove at least one of the screws to expect any closure of the crack. Making the holes in the attachment 2 x 4 oblong would help the top to expand and contract which is clearly is doing.
A slab that wide, not dried, outside, without the ends knots and cracks all sealed is pretty much doomed no matter what, but yeah. Definitely just made by a $camper and not an experienced furniture maker
I am just a noob and when trying epoxy pour and using blue tape as a stop, it leaked. When at my local woodworking store and I related this experience, the staff started laughing at/with me. Epoxy heats up as it is curing-drying they tell me. They gladly showed me the ResinCast Tuck Tape for $14.99. I am going to try it. Got a bunch of walnut cookies to fill in the cracks. Enjoy your videos very much!
1. Every house has something to fix, even a hotel - if a carpenter is needed, you just get the tool out from your trunk and offer a fix. 2. Family knows what your good at, and when you visit them, at a given time they will come up with their question for advise or ... you know, you are good in something, maybe could you do something to it... :) That's family, they come together and everyone add something from their skills, cooking, fixing tables, whatever you need. +1 when family gets together, nothing beats the 'boys are figuring out in the yard, what to do with that good ol' garden table, they are working together, they socialize and building team. Getting a result with joined efforts gives the family meeting more to remember, making a lasting memory whenever they get together around that fixed table next time....
It'll be interesting to see how it goes with regards to UV damage. Another option would have been to soak the table top in a creek or pool as this will help the crack to close up and then dowel. Time will tell
could have always done butterflys just on the bottom of the slab and then did the epoxy. But for not having to make butterflys and a template and bring a router i'm sure your fix will hold up great (i wouldnt have wanted to do butterflys eitther lol).
Please, when you need tape that sticks, use the yellow stuff. The blue masking tape has a not so sticky adhesive for a reason... it's purpose is for masking delicate surfaces. But since it costs more, everyone is like "Oooohhh... this must be better!". It's not. Unless you have a delicate surface to mask.
I’ve got the same issue with a table I want to make, it’s got about 3mm difference which I can flex back, I plan to resin pour the gap hoping it holds it flush. My crack goes almost along the entire table. Thoughts? Or should I lock it in place like you did?
I'm a beginner and was curious...would it be wise to drill a hole at the end of a crack to attempt it from spreading further? Then put a dowel in the hole?
I like to explain those type of cracks as an implosion of the wood. That space used to be taken up by moisture, and now that it's gone, it's almost impossible to clamp the crack closed. The wood split by shrinking away from the crack, so that part of the board is technically gone
You said it better than i did!
Thanks for showing us how to improvise. We need to be able to adjust our approach to fit the situation (and the customer).
You are 100% correct. Also, getting out of your comfort zone is very valuable. I need to do it more.
Whether or not the repair holds I'd love to see a one year later update if your brother is ok with it. You can always learn something by long term observation.
Hey, it's a year later and the repair looks the same! I wasn't sure it would hold, but we're good.
@@RexKrueger Wow! Now that's dedication!
Woodworking, aka how to hide and minimize all the mistakes you make. Sometimes you even make stuff you really like! As you learn what mistakes have been made you make fewer mistakes and the product comes out better. If you don't make mistakes you aren't learning.
My shop teacher always said, "A good craftsperson isn't measured by how few mistakes they make, but by how many mistakes they fix."
I think of every project as atonement for the mistakes made in the last one
I recently did series of similar fills, and if you’d had more time I’d recommend doing a thin pour, just enough to coat the surfaces, first, to reduce the likelihood of leaks. Then fill the rest. This also reduces the likelihood of visible air bubbles in the final pour, in cases where that matters. Great episode!
You did NOT fail at pouring epoxy! You improvised a neat Christmas decoration. :D Nice work, objective achieved.
incredibly helpful! love content like this that tackled issues we might run into and isn’t just regurgitating the “top 10 handtool topics”
The imperfections, including the epoxy repair, are that tables story. 🧡 It’s like our scars and wrinkles and age spots …
I love how your new space is coming along. The sound is a lot better, and those panels add some visual interest to the background. A big improvement over the bare walls.
Perfect! I just got a folding picnic table off the street, it had a huge crack in it. I'm delighted to find your video because the table is not expensive, and not worth spending too much time, effort or money on it; this seems to be the right type of repair for me.
Thanks Rex. Each and every challenge has its own solution. Your is pretty much on the mark. Love your honesty.
In woodworking you do what works. There are always lots of ways to solve a problem. It's refreshing to see a simple and practical solution. In my opinion those are always the best. Love this channel
always a treat to watch your videos. you always tackle real-world problems with a realistic set of tools. thanks. 👍
One of my very favourite Channels. Love your utilitarian approach 💪😎
Always a pleasure to watch your "No Bullshit" approach to your work. It really helps us out, as most of us have similar experiences.
thank you Rex .
After watching so many videos that were not what I needed - This video was EXACTLY what I needed. Thanks so much for posting this.
Excellent Practical approach to the repair. Will be interesting to see the follow up next year.
9:15 honesty makes a great Artisan. Thank you !
When u started explaining what caused the crack i thought u would also get rid of that big knot as well.
Hopefully this repair will hold up for good!
this is not the greatest epoxy in the world, this is just a tribute!
You went with what was my first impulse for how to fix this. I'm now hoping that we, maybe on your next visit, get a followup demonstrating how this fix has held up.
One of the best comments I ever heard in a shop (we were making armor, not woodworking, but still, I think this applies):
"How did you measure that?"
"I guessed"
"What? You have to measure that!!"
"Look, we're not Martin Marietta, and this isn't the space shuttle. I eyeballed it. Deal!"
Good job on the repair. That's not the way I would have tackled it, but that fact alone gives me more information to chew on. Well done!
Awesome work, Rex! 😃
Something to note is that you can use anything to give color to the epoxy. I've seen people using even crushed charcoal!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Charcoal is actually especially good for black epoxy (vs ink/dye) as it doesn't stain the surrounding wood if the epoxy seeps or overflows.
@@glittalogik Exactly!
Sometimes fixed just means good for the user. You’re brother seems happy so all is good.
I've repaired a lot of church pews. Basically what you did was how I fixed them. Good job.
Beautiful job on that split! This is why I love watching your show - you do such a great job of showing how you can improvise and use other techniques to fix a problem.
Very cool fix. Nice "teaching moment", too. Thanks!
Almost a third of viewers have liked the video, that's when you know it is good. Well done rex
Well, kudos to me and to you! I just fixed a bigger split in a slab of Rainbow Poplar the same way. Except I used dowels out if my kit and no epoxy yet. Freakin blazing hot here in central Florida. I'm going to mix up a batch with pearl white pigment and coat all the crack sides then come back to fill with a swirled mix of teal, blues, and greens. All for an end table out of a junk board I got free at the sawmill. We'll see what we see! Thanks.
Turned out quite nice. Like the dowels.
When pouring epoxy, I have found that House Wrap Tape works MUCH better than Blue tape. It sticks to the wood with a better grip and is MUCH less likely to leak.
had to get on that. hope you meant sheathing tape as i saw butyl wrap for joists there too. went with the transparent protection tape.
Aluminum tape used for sealing duct joints works great for epoxy
Testing.... Omg I would one and s'more pile.
Awesome build.
Looks great! And how will it turn out in a year? Of course, that's what we call future content!
Hey Kolaman you did a great job.....
Well done Rex!!!
I applaud you Rex. You were given a challenge and you did what you thought was the best thing to do. Who cares what anyone else on the internet thinks! In the end, your brother was happy with the work you did. That's what matters.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Hello, Mr. Krueger;
Good job, & I appreciate you sharing this.
Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
The acoustic panels look nice!
Nice fix, even if you end up with an epoxy ice cycle. Interested in seeing how that repair holds up the elements. Thanks for the video sir.
Great video, really loved it.
A human against wood. A human embracing wood. We kind of do both, with RC’s wise help. Gracias.
I love the "on the fly" problem solving; that's how every one of my projects goes. 😏
You're a good brother.
looks like a good fix!
Aluminum tape works great for resin since its more ridgid. But it does have a sticky glue residue so keep that in mind. I have put it over top of blue tape in a few cases
Loved the “wow” voiceover lol.
the outburst. yessssss
got a question for you , i'm a hobbyist woodworker, i use mainly hand tools , thats why i love all your videos. recently started making walking canes , bending the wood with open flame after soaking the branches for a few days in water. sometimes while bending , i'' ll get a split on the top of the bend , ill try to warm it up again , glue it and tie it with strong wire and let it dry , for a few months as the wood dries out . is there something else i could do to strengthen that split spot so that it doesnt open up in the future?? thanks for your help
I only bought a saw and 1 chisel with me. 🤣. On holiday? You sir are the handy man!
Great job
I think that turned out really good. I suspect that repair is gonna last a fairly long time
Drill a hole in the bottom of the dowel and another on the side.
When you hammer the dowel it'll be the same as with a split but the glue will fill the small holes.
Great video!
Looks like a great repair and the dowels seem like a good idea to me. I'm interested to see it after the sanding/ restaining and after next summer for comparison.
If I have to fix this on my vacation I'm gunna get a video out of it! -- every youtuber on vacation
Your reaction to the epoxy leaking made my day...I belly laughed so hard.
Nice fix. Nothing wrong with what Rex did here. My two cents on what I would do additionally based on my experience: Add a UV inhibiting pigment to protect the epoxy from Ultraviolet rays that penetrate and degrade the epoxy resin over time, clean and scuff or score the inside surfaces to promote adhesion(maybe I missed that Rex did this step) and I would wear disposable gloves to avoid any contact with the epoxy resin as allergic reactions can develope from repeated exposure to un-cured epoxy. I still think his fix is sufficient and will last years.
Awesome video
Awesome video!!!!
Was the crack caused by the slabs shrinkage being restricted by the large cross member the slab is screwed to? Remove the legs and cross members, fix the crack (which may now close properly), refit the cross members, leaving room for movement and then fit the legs.
I was amazed that he didn’t even try taking the legs off to further relive tension. Not a very good tutorial to say the least.
@@sas5177 He was on holiday to be fair and UA-cam does so love epoxy.
Great channel subscribed
Sometimes, you can just use epoxy mixed with sawdust and just fill in the gaps…then sand it smooth. Other times, you can counter-sink decking screws, from underneath, (paired Elmer’s wood glue) to pull it back together. Then add wood-filler to fill in the screw holes/thin lines left over, and sand it.
We take such different toolkits on our vacations.
That was fun.
Thanks, very useful, I learn a lot from your videos. May I ask a question: if the wood is completely sealed with some coating, will that prevent the movements from external humidity and from internal drying?
Rex out here with just one EDC saw and chisel
Looks like the legs were nailed or screwed into the top. Could that have contributed to the crack?
One saw, one chisel c’mon! Some artistic licence taken????
Brilliant finish and wonderful effect.
Bob
England
7:32 When you drop your freshly sharpened chisels on the concrete floor
Glad that I'm not the only one who cusses like a sailor when I get a leak on an epoxy pour.
Great job Rex. A passing thought. Initially the crack is explained by the knot. Whats possibility of cutting out the knot, doing the clamp and glue, then put a bowtie or football where the knot was.
Epoxicle?
I’m glad your brother likes it, and glad you could fix it! But man, he got taken to the movies on that table haha, beside it not being dried properly the construction looks a little shoddy.
it's a really good repair considering it's something you didn't expect to work on, had limited time to do, and hardly had any tools appropriate for the type of work
Neat fix! Though I do kinda think you'd want to stabilize the crack a lot further down where it's forming, if possible. This should last a while though, and I hope we get to see it after refinishing. Thanks! (Also, you nearly made me spit out my beverage when you enthusiastically bleep-swore. Was not expecting that, lol!)
the result looked really good. Did you get any bubbles?
Yes, but they're all in the underside since we filed it upside down!
Would it have helped anything if you had drilled out the knot? I realize the imposition on aesthetics, but would there have been a structural improvement?
I have a large redwood live edge table that has been stored several years. It has epoxy applied over the top however the bottom is unfinished. The crack is visible through the finish as a gap however it has not surfaced yet. I need something that remains fairly runny and sets slowly to seal the crack from beneath and hopefully stabilize the crack in the future preventing the crack from revealing itself on the top and through the finish. Any suggestions for a suitable product would be appreciated.
“I only brought one saw with me” nice
The dog is the real hero here. 😉🤣😂🤣
Its always those little leaks that get us ...🤣🤣🤣
Could you have done a half thickness butterfly key on the bottom surface instead of the dowels?
yes.
Off to visit family, what saw should I bring with me? Only you have this thought before taking a trip. LOL
You're an experienced woodworker, so you may be comfortable risking your hands with a spade bit, but probably not the best idea. Easier to figure out the depth and mark it on the bit, then no fingers need to come anywhere near a rotating blade that easily has the power to take them off.
You may think I'm just being overly cautious, but take it from someone who doesn't have all their digits, it's not worth it. It just isn't. Otherwise great job.
I completely agree, next year will be the fortieth anniversary of me losing an index finger to a revolving drill blade (industrial trepanning drill with a defective guard) which is a real long time to ponder on "I sure wish I'd kept my finger clear of that drill!". Rex, I absolutely commend your 'we learn by trying things' philosophy, but in this case The Sky Forge and myself have already taken this painful lesson for you... It's just not worth taking the risk when there is a safer practical alternative. I also thought 'Hey I'm sure it'll be okay"... right up until it wasn't!
@@doczoff5655 Amen Brother! That's exactly how it goes.
Everything is ok until it isn't.
And many years to think about the consequences.
Thanks for the support!
I need some advice on a good mask for sanding
@Rex, can you do a video on bowties? What are they? How do they work? Why repair with bow ties?
Ok, so let's have it straight: 0:35 "[...] I am kind of on vacation [...]", 3:36 "[...] I only brought one saw with me [...]" - question is "who on vacation takes saw in the first place?", it's like a Dexter kind of thing... "All right, than. Keep your secrets" mem.
I will say as someone who used famawood epoxy and the good and bad is it never really gets hard if you leave a plate or something on it long enough you dent that shape into the epoxy. what may be good about that is it mean it can handle some wood movement. i made the mistake years ago to do a small pour on a small table round the didn't seal the bottom about a 2ft round of cherry laminate boards and it looked like a potato chip around 1/2in lift on both side from the center. after a few weeks it went back flat an the epoxy handled that with no issue. shortly after noticing a dent from leaving a plate on it. that mainly went away you could still make out some of it. then the piece got direct sunlight and had a 1in round bubble from moisture trying to escape probably at least a 1/4in high. it went back down but you could clearly see the spot. it became wall art and i sold it. last i heard on the wall and not being touch or in the sunlight and it's doing great at that. famawood has its times and places but i generally hate that its labeled as a counter top bar top. spend 20% more money and you can get some really decent epoxy. also pigment it really ideal for outdoor UV is so hard on epoxy something blocking the uv a bit helps prevent yellowing though thats going to happen eventually. UV coatings help but its kinda the nature of the beast. For this application its not the best for famawood but hell its better then before and being just a crack it probably not going to dent noticeable until it does.
My guess would be the cause of the split is how the top is attached to the legs. There is a 2 x 4 whose long grain is running 90 degrees to the long grain of the top.. It appears to be screwed on with round holes which would not allow the top to move. I'd think you'd need to remove at least one of the screws to expect any closure of the crack.
Making the holes in the attachment 2 x 4 oblong would help the top to expand and contract which is clearly is doing.
A slab that wide, not dried, outside, without the ends knots and cracks all sealed is pretty much doomed no matter what, but yeah. Definitely just made by a $camper and not an experienced furniture maker
I am just a noob and when trying epoxy pour and using blue tape as a stop, it leaked. When at my local woodworking store and I related this experience, the staff started laughing at/with me. Epoxy heats up as it is curing-drying they tell me. They gladly showed me the ResinCast Tuck Tape for $14.99. I am going to try it. Got a bunch of walnut cookies to fill in the cracks. Enjoy your videos very much!
Nice job and video 🙌🙌👍👌😊🍀🙏
"I only brought one saw". Rex, I gotta ask.... why did you bring a saw on vacation? (and a chisel!)
1. Every house has something to fix, even a hotel - if a carpenter is needed, you just get the tool out from your trunk and offer a fix.
2. Family knows what your good at, and when you visit them, at a given time they will come up with their question for advise or ... you know, you are good in something, maybe could you do something to it... :) That's family, they come together and everyone add something from their skills, cooking, fixing tables, whatever you need.
+1 when family gets together, nothing beats the 'boys are figuring out in the yard, what to do with that good ol' garden table, they are working together, they socialize and building team. Getting a result with joined efforts gives the family meeting more to remember, making a lasting memory whenever they get together around that fixed table next time....
It'll be interesting to see how it goes with regards to UV damage. Another option would have been to soak the table top in a creek or pool as this will help the crack to close up and then dowel. Time will tell
could have always done butterflys just on the bottom of the slab and then did the epoxy. But for not having to make butterflys and a template and bring a router i'm sure your fix will hold up great (i wouldnt have wanted to do butterflys eitther lol).
Please, when you need tape that sticks, use the yellow stuff. The blue masking tape has a not so sticky adhesive for a reason... it's purpose is for masking delicate surfaces. But since it costs more, everyone is like "Oooohhh... this must be better!". It's not. Unless you have a delicate surface to mask.
I’ve got the same issue with a table I want to make, it’s got about 3mm difference which I can flex back, I plan to resin pour the gap hoping it holds it flush. My crack goes almost along the entire table.
Thoughts?
Or should I lock it in place like you did?
I'm a beginner and was curious...would it be wise to drill a hole at the end of a crack to attempt it from spreading further? Then put a dowel in the hole?
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
That was an awesome repair, Rex. I just have one question... Was there a dog in this video? 😂