hello To all our great Subscribers...please share this video with everyone you know that is dealing with this issue it is The most solid method to securing splitting wood. Quote of the Week: *We are all here for some special reason. Stop being a prisoner of your past. Become the architect of your future.*
Fixed your hippie quote: We are not here for some special reason. You are not a special little snowflake. Your past should chip away at your ability to feel happy, breeding bitterness and despair. Stop ignoring your failures, own up to them and rightfully suffer.
Wood expands and contracts, when you buy post or beams Make sure you try to buy what they call fohc lumber. Which means free of heart center,which means when you see the center of the tree or bullseye. It’s very unstable if you into a big box lumber store look at the 4x4 and larger beams, the ones cork screwing or crooked they will have that bullseye. And already checking or cracking, I’ve learned a little bit about lumber after 35 yrs years in the business.
Problem is we live in a temporary society these days everybody wants the cheapest and they end up paying the price later on have a great day thanks for sharing this awesome information guru Mike out
I always coat the buried portion of a 4x4 post with automotive undercoating to prevent rot. I had someone back into a 4x4 light post that had been in the ground for 25 years, and when I pulled the broken off remains out of the ground it looked like brand new.
Never bury a wood post if at all possible. Pour 18" deep pads, in forms and when cures install galvanized post mounts. Simpson preferred. I would never bury even pressure treated. It rots at ground level
undercoat or Flex Seal, both work pretty well. Also pickup bed liner paint. use it about 4 to 6 inches above ground and about a foot to 18 inches below. unless it's already buried in a porch.
I’ve done what you are doing, I did not use a flimsy C-clam. I used what we as ironworker’s call a bridge clamp and 2 steel plate to help spread the load to prevent damage to the column/post. I filled the split lumber with glue and then clamped it. Then I took a wet towel and wiped the excess glue off the column/post. Then I drilled and bolted it. I then used saw dust and glue to make my own filler and covered the recessed fastener. I walked away and came back the next day and with a little bit of sanding, the repair was practically invisible. My client was very happy that I saved them the cost of removing that split column. It was a substantial amount. I’ve done this more than once. I have never had a complaint about the final result of that type of fix. Actual labor time is less than one hour. That bridge clamp closed that spit completely.
@@MrKnowItAllGuru I for got to say. Those bridge clamps are very expensive and they can get pretty heavy too. The way you tighten one is with a crescent wrench. They don’t have those skinny little rods to use as a tool to tighten or loosen.
An idea for anyone else doing this: Blow out the big cracks with an air compressor. If the post is old there will probably be all kinds of dirt, bugs, and who knows what else that'll weaken your glue joint.
I had this problem with a 15yo Pergola in my garden. It has 8 6X6 supports.. I drilled some 6mm holes across the splits. And countersunk each side to allow the bolts to be flush. Then I filled the splits with some exterior grade no-more nails glue. Then I put in the bolts and tightened them up. While using some ' G ' clamps like you did. I then mixed the drill sawdust with some glue and filled the bolt holes and any splits I hadn't filled. Then I sanded the posts and painted them twice.
I have four 4X4 posts that support my carport roof that needed painting. They had splits just like yours. I wasn't worried about structure, but they didn't look good. I filled the splits, like you did, then painted everything once it was all cured and dried. After 6 years, the posts look just like they did after I filled the splits ( I may repaint this summer ) and the roof is still straight, level and where it's supposed to be. I'm not feeling the need to use any bolts to hold things together.
Hi there. I have the same problem but my posts are leaning as well. I was thinking of removing one of the posts and re-anchoring without knowing how much work it is until I watched your video. Thanks.
Great repair! Those cracks aren't structural, mainly drying out cracks!! So filling them like you did is just fine. It will prevent water from getting in there and causing rot.
I just spent about $250 on an 8’ 8x8 cedar post to replace rotted ones. Ouch! Problem appears to be that water got into those cracks and rotted the columns from the inside out. Also possible that the water got in through openings created by fasteners. Does anyone seal around screws and nails to prevent rotting?
I would also recommend taking an air compressor and a blowing tool and blow out the crack before applying the glue but do it also after you apply the glue to get it all the way back.
Thanks for the insight into fixing cracks. I have glulams which I see that are de-laminating. 5x5 & 6x7 posts that are quite tall - 20'. Can you do this repair on glulams? What about treated vs non treated wood?
This works on glulams and any type of treated or non treated wood my friend. Thanks for watching and asking, have a great weekend John. Guru Mike & team
You can use a multi-tool with a carbide blade and cut off the excess. You might want to get more than one blade but it works. I used it on my fence where the installer used nails that were too long. 500 pickets thank you very much installers.
Is this better than filling the crack with a structural epoxy resin? A deep poor resin so it takes a while to harden and seeps into the wood more. I have 8 x 8” posts with Grand Canyon cracks and I’m trying to decide what the best material is. Thanks, Paul
We have always used this amzn.to/3kcQj3T it has done the job perfectly Paul. Thank you for watching, hope you have a great weekend my friend. Guru Mike & team
The manufacturer's instructions for the product in the video (510) says this will fill "minor gaps", but doesn't say anything more than that. The different product linked above (PL 3X) is probably better. You could email pictures to the manufacturer and ask them what product they would recommend. I have done that in the past, and they were very helpful.
Good idea, you could also use the edge of a thin spatula to push the glue in further. Wouldn't the drilling holes in the beams cause cracks or weaken them?
We've done this for years and years and it does nothing but make the pole 10 times stronger than it is currently. Thanks for watching, have a great day. Guru Mike
On furniture breaks I take a screw and drill a hole the threads won't catch on the first piece and a small hole the threads will catch on the piece I'm trying to reattach it to and get some wood glue inside and then screw it together. Recess it a little if looks are important. Probably stronger than new in a lot of instances. Easy way to squeeze it together at every screw point without using a bunch of clamps. Good video, would have never thought to fill splits like that on my porch.
I've been looking to buy a Kung Fu wooden dummy and cracking of the wooden post seems to be a big problem with some of them. I'm not sure what they coat that center wooden post with but could keeping that main body "oiled" reduce or eliminate that cracking. Moisture (water) or the quick evaporation of water causes the cracks so would a linseed oil help prevent cracking?
I was so pissed we renovated our deck in 2016 up to code then about 2019 I see some small splitting starting to form. The deck has southern exposure in NJ only the 4x6 posts started to split. Maybe the pressure-treated wood from Home Depot & Lowe's is of lesser quality? I didn't bury the posts used concrete ABA ZMAX Galvanized Adjustable Standoff Post Bases for 4x4 & 4x6
Lotta times they split like that from the big chain stores because they’re so green there is a lot of moisture in them they don’t dry them out well enough before they do the wolmanizing
I knew I recognized that voice! Sweet Project Cars is your other channel. I’m a LONG time viewer! I’d love to hear more riding mower tips. What older mowers are the better ones. It’s a new area of learning for me. I’m a trained auto mechanic (1995) and I watch your Sweet Project Cars for tips. I’d love to learn about the mower. My sons have always maintained our mowers because I do the cars. Now they grew up and left home it’s me and their Dad, who’s just learning anything mechanical. Love your channel. Rock on! 🤘🏻
Welcome! Glad you found us here! Check this video out on mowers that we did ua-cam.com/video/KRxLYXj1pNs/v-deo.html hope it helps. Thanks so much for watching and commenting, we truly appreciate it, hope you have a fantastic day my friend. Guru Mike & team
Your caulking gun should have a tip cutter on it as well, but you knew that mr know it all. Thanks for the video, i presumed that would be the process. I would just replace the beam. That's load bearing. I wouldnt feel great with glue and/or lag screws holding up my overhang.
Alright, yes, I'm sure that there are positive reasons to replace it, but I didn't really want to bust the concrete pad up and disturb all of the landscaping and also have to jack up and hold the carrier up while doing this. Since the gazebo is close to 20 years old, this was the quickest, easiest way to make the pole last at least another 5 years. Had the gazebo been newer, replacement may have been and option other than having to bust the concrete up to do this. This goes the same with vehicles, if my brakes and tires all start going bad, I'm not going to replace the car. Thanks for watching, have a great week. Guru Mike
I was taught that the right glue is stronger than the wood, nails or screws we use when woodworking, this has served me well over the years. I do understand the added protection one feels when replacing a not so perfect structure, though. 😊
Hi I’m a novice at this and am starting to redo my deck and it looks like this. Can you describe to me some of the vocabulary and tools you are using? Here are the things I would like to know: 1- what does powersink mean? 2- when you use the c clamp, what is that pipe you use to adjust the tightness and where do you get it? 3- Why do you have that paint stir stick between the c clamp and the wood? What’s the purpose? 5- Can i use the caulk on floorboards of my deck to fill in cracks?
@MrKnowitAllGuru thanks for this great tip. My pergola post 6x6 is splitting. I will definitely use the glue in the crack. Would it be as good to use timber bolts OWT with part number 56695 instead of log screws? Or is it better to use log screws ? I already bought the OWT but haven’t use them yet. The OWT timber bolts are adjustable from both ends. Would love to hear your advice- thanks.
You can use anything that you like as long as they are as heavy duty or more than the ones we use, so if your bolts are stronger, go ahead and use them. Thanks for watching and asking, have a great week and all the best on your project my friend. Guru Mike & team
Always add a 1/2" sawcut to the back of any post you install, to reduce surface tension which is what causes the cracks. That will either eliminate or greatly reduce cracking. The sawcut can be filled flush with a similar coloured caulking if so desired. Looks a lot better than the random cracking over time, and better protects the integrity of the post.
@@neomacchio4692 I’m just guessing, but maybe he means to rip a half inch deep kerf the length of the post. Kind of like a relief cut in concrete? You know it’s going to crack, so control the crack? But I don’t see how this prevents the post from eventually splitting in half anyway.
Ledger bolts are the best .something this important i probably would have ripped some 1/2 " 3 1./2 wide plywood and glued and screwed to the outside . only because im in a 4 season area and need to be sealed better than in your nice sunny perfect weather area ...haha .i did have some 12 fts on a deck that needed attention and did this .keep up the good work .
Great video! One situation came up for me which was there is a 1" wood attached to a ~4.5inch wood for a fence gate. I see nails sticking out a little in the crack. So I imagine taking out the nails and screws would be a setup step as well in that case. Or if that can't be done, oscillating tool or metal shear
If 3" screws would have been available, we would have used them. But even having to cut 1/2" off the end of the screw, it still pulled the split together. Thank you for watching John.
we have to fix 15 fence posts, that were put 2 years ago. Some cracks are bad and some posts have cracks on 3 sides. I was looking into the latest screws and HeadLOK brand doesn't make 3"L, they are either 2 7/8 or 4.5"L. The Simpson brand had similar strength, dia and proper coating of steel fasteners, but the head is hex with incorporated washer. So Me Know it all used what was the most available. Although I may settle for 2 7/8 fasteners since those are only 1/8 short of 3". I don't have time cutting the protruding ends of screws. Thank you for the awesome video an link for materials.
You are supposed to use wedges to further split the wood. Then you use tape to make the push out clean. Then you pilot hole for your screws or bolts and squeeze out. Then when it's done and dried, you add plugs before you sand.
We use these amzn.to/3Y5ffeg and they last years and years and will cut any nails/screws you have. Thanks for watching and asking, have a fantastic week my friend. Guru Mike
I wouldn't countersink because I don't mind the above surface bolt head and it leaves all the material for the most strength. I would close those cracks up better first, though.
Thanks for making it look easy for us to do and to all of you subscribers who offer other gems of info, such as coating the ends in different things to stop rot. I inherited the timber pergola when I bought my home, so have no idea as to what 'piece' of timber it is made with, but yes a few cracks are now showing, but I'm relieved to find that I repair and save money by not replacing these lengths. Again, thankyou to all the information, new subscriber now.
Nice! ! Unlike most UA-cam DIY know-it-all commentators, I have nothing to add, except to say I’d do that job the same way! It should hold up for a good while!
I have a fence post like this and wondering what I can do to reduce water exposure and protect it longer. Pressure treated. I need a filler patch. The plastic wood filler didn't work.
We used these amzn.to/3CK5zvD & amzn.to/3kcQj3T and just a reminder, all of the products/tools we use in our videos can be found in the .....More of the video description. Thanks for the view and sub Ray, hope you have a fantastic day and all the best on your project. Guru Mike & team
I have a question for a fix? I have an old shed that i have taken apart and was going to use it as just an open porch (Just posts and metal lean to roof).However the bottom of the posts are rotted and once the walls came off I see it is not that sturdy.Any way to fix the bottom rotting beams without replacement? or just tear down the structure and rebuild?.
Basically the poles are your foundation, other than replacing each pole, your next option would be to tear it down. You could add a pole to each pole, screw and glue the new to the older pole, but that most likely would look mox nixed. If it was anything else other than the poles and the foundational aspect of them you could replace them, I guess you will have to be the judge of tearing down or just butting new poles to the old. Safety is the number one concern my friend. Hope this helps, thanks for watching, have a great week. Guru Mike
I have seen so many split columns on newer jobs that i figure the newer lumber must be defective, so I no longer use 4X4 and larger, but laminate 2X's with ledger bolts or lag bolts. My jobs don't split out, so the only revisits I get are when the customer wants more work. Reworks don't make anyone happy.
You’re exactly right my friend he’s always changing his name to his real name is Julio Goteras Rodrigo Chavez Alverez merry Christmas my friend mad Mike
Please- everyone is a troll, I know- but cement is the binder that holds concrete or mortar together. Noticed this on your tapcon video too. But you’ve certainly helped this old carpenter with cars.
I do the same thing, but I don't use glue, just drill a 3/8 clearance hole all the way across, no counter sink. Take a 3/8 carriage bolt 1/2" to 1" longer than the thickness usually 5", and hammer the head flush, so it doesn't turn. Put a (fender) washer under the nut and tighten. The clamping force goes all the way across just like the C-clamp did. Repeat as needed.
Guarantee pressure-treated lumber from Home Depot or Lowe's will split, twist and a whole bunch of strange things. I had one long 4x4 ended up in a semicircle! Unbelievable moisture content.
Hey, thank you so much for your video. I have a strange question for you. I recently bought some one inch thick round slices of walnut. I assumed they were dried properly ect. BUT, I mounted some ferns to them and they are very happy there. Problem is, that now since I have to also plant wet moss to the center of them, the wood looks like someone is cutting out pieces of pizza! I can pout a vice on these due to the shape but I do have two extra to restart with. PLEASE tell me what to do or coat this wood with so when I remount the staghorn ferns, this wont happen again. Should I drill a hole in the center and then stain the wood or something? I could REALLY use your advice!!!
Can you please send me a few pics of your issue to sweetprojectcars@gmail.com we will see if we can get you pointed in the right direction my friend. Thanks for watching, have a great day. Guru Mike
You sure can Scott thanks for asking you may have to have longer screws just make sure they’re T30 torx and no less than 5 inches long Thanks for asking my friend mad mike out
The only thing that I could add to this, is that I would've tried to shove more clue further in the cracks, then squeezing the clamps some more, before securing the screw. 😉😎
It is Erin, you will be super happy with the results! Thank you for watching and being a great subscriber, we appreciate you, I will pass your regards to Consuela :) Have a fantastic day my friend. Guru Mike
Glad it was helpful! We include men, women, and kids because they need to know this stuff as well Kareen! Thank you so much for watching and commenting, hope you have a great weekend. Guru Mike & team
It would be easier, cheaper and quicker just to replace the post. Just my opinion but good option if you can't. For example with The Ledger would the process would be good for that, thanks!
You can do whatever you want to do, our fix worked and it worked great, and it looks perfect after doing this and re-staining it. Thanks. Guru Mike & team
If you purchase posts for a deck and the boards have experienced checking, the best solution is to lay them on their side and pour a bead of Titebond waterproof glue in the cracks. DO NOT clamp at first. Let the glue sink in by gravity alone. There is no need to push the glue in. Then, come back in 10 minutes and repeat the process until the glue doesn't sink in any longer. THEN, use clamps to compress the beams and let the glue dry. After the glue has dried, sand lightly with 220 grit using an orbital sander, and they will be perfect. Pro Tip - when installing the deck posts, orient them with the glued side facing the next post so the repairs will not be visible once the rails are all in place. The posts will never check and look perfect!
Great to hear that Jason it will work like crazy...and it is fast to do just keep the clamps on for a few days until you know the glue is really set..thanks mad mike
Great video - I repaired 4x4 and 6x6 posts before - But I pull them together(as close as possible without damage) with 8 or 10 inch C clamps and then I cut one half inch plywood pieces to size and C clamp those to the posts on both sides of the post where the cracks are, then use deck screws and screw them through the plywood from both sides to hold everything together, then release all the C clamps and paint the posts with the plywood attached. - I never used an adhesive in the cracks but might try it next time I do this - but very good video.
Looks as good as it does in the video, it's an awesome repair. We applied some new stain and you can't even tell there was a repair! Thanks for watching and asking, have a great day. Guru Mike
If you're going to buy a screw gun, make sure you get one that has the hammerdrill option on it. Then one day when you need a hammerdrill, you've got it! Thanks for the view, have a great day. Guru Mike & team
This amzn.to/3kcQj3T sure does! We stained right over our repair, and it looks GREAT! Thanks for watching and asking, have a fantastic week my friend. Guru Mike & team
Thank you very much! We have really enjoyed it this year, it was a hot one down here in FLA :) Thanks for the view and comment, hope you have a fantastic day my friend. Guru Mike & team
These amzn.to/3rZUcxA might work best for you if you are doing 4x4 poles because they are only 3 1/2" long so you will be able to countersink without having them poke out the other side. Thank you so much for watching and asking, have a fantastic day my friend. Guru Mike
Because this amzn.to/3kcQj3T works best for us, it'll be 20 or 30 years before there's an issue with this again, I'm sure I'll be 6' under before then :) Thanks for watching, have a great day. Guru Mike
Alright, yes, I'm sure that there are positive reasons to replace it, but I didn't really want to bust the concrete pad up and disturb all of the landscaping and also have to jack up and hold the carrier up while doing this. Since the gazebo is close to 20 years old, this was the quickest, easiest way to make the pole last at least another 5 years. Had the gazebo been newer, replacement may have been and option other than having to bust the concrete up to do this. This goes the same with vehicles, if my brakes and tires all start going bad, I'm not going to replace the car. Same goes for brake discs, if your brake discs need to be ground, you don't just replace them, you have them ground for a third of the cost. Thanks for watching. Guru Mike
@@MrKnowItAllGuru Wow. thank you for the response. I really do not expect a response from any poster. Rhetorical question, IMO, but really happy you provided a detailed reasoned response. Thank you again.
The integrity of the pole is still good, so we shared this method to show the average DIYer how to fix the splits. No contractor involved here. Thanks for watching, have a great day. Guru Mike
Big box stores are so dangerous. Giving confidence to anyone that has money. Pro tip: don’t buy lumber from the orange or blue store. Freebie: For the cost of a tube of construction adhesive and structural screws, you can replace the 4x4.
Problem is replacing the 4 x 4 was not an option for us and many people don’t have the option to replace the pole ours were cemented in to the concrete pad and concreted below and attached to the carrier above making it very very difficult and dangerous and very very very time consuming this method has worked for us for over 20 some years and it’s very fast and have not had a pole come apart sense have a great day thank you for your comment GuruMike
The problem is mostly because of the method they treat the wood nowadays. I will agree though, I used to work at Lowe’s and can’t tell you some horror stories about the lumber that comes into the stores!
Moisture acting on a poorly selected post that was cut in such a way that wants to twist in response to moisture changes, combined with a lack of kiln drying, lack of end grain sealing and inadequate finish coating is why the timber is splitting. If the timber is structural post it the timber should be replaced. If its cosmetic, construction adhesive is primarily a sealer/filler in this application, but because it's solvent based nature will trap moisture in the wood in the worst possible place. A better material is low expansion polyurethane foam used as insulation around in door frames. It adheres better to damp wood actually absorbing the moisture from the wood in its chemical reaction, flows better into small cracks and once cured is a better crack filler and a more effective, paintable, moisture barrier.
It seems no one else has correctly explained why the post is splitting. It is because is was cut from the center of the tree. Look at the end grain when buying posts. If you see concentric circular tree rings, that is bad, it with split. If you see broader crescent shaped tree rings it will not twist or split.
Hey Mike first off thank you so much! So what size of counter sink drill bit was that? Did you fill in those holes where the bolt head went in and with what? Just that glue. I have been staining my wood for years and was thinking about painting it instead. I noticed your posts and other wood was painted so with what paint? Looks like I need to get more supplies lol 😆
No problem Kerry, the bits amzn.to/3ivaiut 9/16 I filled the hole with the amzn.to/3kcQj3T and the paint is Behr Solid Color House & Fence Wood Stain we picked up at Home Depot thanks much Mike
The glue is being used as putti, cuz till the time two split contact each other, glue won't work, most likely. The screw is actually holding the split. This kind of complete wood split shows the wood is too week now and the piller needs to be replaced.
hello To all our great Subscribers...please share this video with everyone you know that is dealing with this issue it is The most solid method to securing splitting wood. Quote of the Week: *We are all here for some special reason. Stop being a prisoner of your past. Become the architect of your future.*
Bondo and a coat of oil based primer and paint to seal it also works great.
thanks for sharing Stan mad mike
What kind glue are you used? Name please
Fixed your hippie quote: We are not here for some special reason. You are not a special little snowflake. Your past should chip away at your ability to feel happy, breeding bitterness and despair. Stop ignoring your failures, own up to them and rightfully suffer.
@@MrKnowItAllGuru😊😊😊😊😊
Wood expands and contracts, when you buy post or beams Make sure you try to buy what they call fohc lumber. Which means free of heart center,which means when you see the center of the tree or bullseye. It’s very unstable if you into a big box lumber store look at the 4x4 and larger beams, the ones cork screwing or crooked they will have that bullseye. And already checking or cracking, I’ve learned a little bit about lumber after 35 yrs years in the business.
Problem is we live in a temporary society these days everybody wants the cheapest and they end up paying the price later on have a great day thanks for sharing this awesome information guru Mike out
This.
Don't forget the huge notch at the top.
That’s why I like the Home Depot and Lowe’s, you’re free to inspect their lumber for center cuts and other flaws.
I always coat the buried portion of a 4x4 post with automotive undercoating to prevent rot. I had someone back into a 4x4 light post that had been in the ground for 25 years, and when I pulled the broken off remains out of the ground it looked like brand new.
Thank you very much for watching and sharing, have a great weekend. Guru Mike
My father always coated the buried portion of the post in linseed oil overnight before he sunk them in the ground - they never rotted that I know of.
Never bury a wood post if at all possible. Pour 18" deep pads, in forms and when cures install galvanized post mounts. Simpson preferred. I would never bury even pressure treated. It rots at ground level
undercoat or Flex Seal, both work pretty well. Also pickup bed liner paint. use it about 4 to 6 inches above ground and about a foot to 18 inches below. unless it's already buried in a porch.
I paint mine with mastic, roof repair matls
Just a money saving tip. Once you put the glue into the crack use your wife’s credit card to push the glue in farther before clamping.
LOL, that is a money saving tip for sure :) Thanks for the view, hope you have a great day. Guru Mike & team
😂😂😂
Got to be the wife's credit card or it won't work LOL.
🤣🤣🤣 it must be ‘wife’s credit cards’?
Be sure to spit on the credit card first. the extra lube allows you to fill the joints in better without it sticking to the applicator as much.
I’ve done what you are doing, I did not use a flimsy C-clam. I used what we as ironworker’s call a bridge clamp and 2 steel plate to help spread the load to prevent damage to the column/post. I filled the split lumber with glue and then clamped it. Then I took a wet towel and wiped the excess glue off the column/post. Then I drilled and bolted it. I then used saw dust and glue to make my own filler and covered the recessed fastener. I walked away and came back the next day and with a little bit of sanding, the repair was practically invisible. My client was very happy that I saved them the cost of removing that split column. It was a substantial amount. I’ve done this more than once. I have never had a complaint about the final result of that type of fix. Actual labor time is less than one hour. That bridge clamp closed that spit completely.
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great day. Guru Mike & team
@@MrKnowItAllGuru I for got to say. Those bridge clamps are very expensive and they can get pretty heavy too. The way you tighten one is with a crescent wrench. They don’t have those skinny little rods to use as a tool to tighten or loosen.
Im gonna do that. Make a video.
How is a c clamp flimsy?
This is the right way for that kind of wood split. Thank you
An idea for anyone else doing this: Blow out the big cracks with an air compressor. If the post is old there will probably be all kinds of dirt, bugs, and who knows what else that'll weaken your glue joint.
Thanks for the view and comment, we always appreciate the input my friend, have a great weekend. Guru Mike & team
I had this problem with a 15yo Pergola in my garden. It has 8 6X6 supports.. I drilled some 6mm holes across the splits. And countersunk each side to allow the bolts to be flush. Then I filled the splits with some exterior grade no-more nails glue. Then I put in the bolts and tightened them up. While using some ' G ' clamps like you did. I then mixed the drill sawdust with some glue and filled the bolt holes and any splits I hadn't filled. Then I sanded the posts and painted them twice.
Thanks for watching and sharing, we appreciate the input, have a great day. Guru Mike & team
I like the idea of bolts more than screws. Also great tip on using sawdust to match colors.
I subscribed just because you acknowledged that gals are not guys. Thanks and I enjoyed the video.
Welcome Aboard! Glad you found us! Thanks for the view and sub, hope you enjoy the channel, have a great day my friend. Guru Mike & team
I have four 4X4 posts that support my carport roof that needed painting. They had splits just like yours. I wasn't worried about structure, but they didn't look good. I filled the splits, like you did, then painted everything once it was all cured and dried. After 6 years, the posts look just like they did after I filled the splits ( I may repaint this summer ) and the roof is still straight, level and where it's supposed to be.
I'm not feeling the need to use any bolts to hold things together.
Nice!! Thank you for watching and sharing, we appreciate it, have a great evening my friend. GuruMike
I think you did the possible best. The cracks are from drying, no need to screw it, just fill it and you are done.
Fill them with latex caulk then paint them.
What did you use
Hi there. I have the same problem but my posts are leaning as well. I was thinking of removing one of the posts and re-anchoring without knowing how much work it is until I watched your video. Thanks.
Glad you found us! Thank you for watching and sharing, have a great week my friend. Guru Mike & team
Great repair! Those cracks aren't structural, mainly drying out cracks!! So filling them like you did is just fine. It will prevent water from getting in there and causing rot.
better safe than sorry my friend, especially in hurricane and tornado country! Mad Mike
Exactly... !
@@MrKnowItAllGuru true... makes the supports look weak and ugly if left like that.
I just spent about $250 on an 8’ 8x8 cedar post to replace rotted ones. Ouch! Problem appears to be that water got into those cracks and rotted the columns from the inside out. Also possible that the water got in through openings created by fasteners. Does anyone seal around screws and nails to prevent rotting?
I would also recommend taking an air compressor and a blowing tool and blow out the crack before applying the glue but do it also after you apply the glue to get it all the way back.
Thank you very much, we really appreciate the view and the input my friend. Have a fantastic week. Guru Mike & team
Thanks for the insight into fixing cracks. I have glulams which I see that are de-laminating. 5x5 & 6x7 posts that are quite tall - 20'. Can you do this repair on glulams? What about treated vs non treated wood?
This works on glulams and any type of treated or non treated wood my friend. Thanks for watching and asking, have a great weekend John. Guru Mike & team
from an old woman DIYer, THANK YOU ‼️‼️
Absolutely our pleasure! Thank you so much for watching and sharing, hope you have a fantastic weekend my friend. Guru Mike & team
You can use a multi-tool with a carbide blade and cut off the excess. You might want to get more than one blade but it works. I used it on my fence where the installer used nails that were too long. 500 pickets thank you very much installers.
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great day. Guru Mike & team
Is this better than filling the crack with a structural epoxy resin? A deep poor resin so it takes a while to harden and seeps into the wood more.
I have 8 x 8” posts with Grand Canyon cracks and I’m trying to decide what the best material is.
Thanks,
Paul
We have always used this amzn.to/3kcQj3T it has done the job perfectly Paul. Thank you for watching, hope you have a great weekend my friend. Guru Mike & team
The manufacturer's instructions for the product in the video (510) says this will fill "minor gaps", but doesn't say anything more than that. The different product linked above (PL 3X) is probably better. You could email pictures to the manufacturer and ask them what product they would recommend. I have done that in the past, and they were very helpful.
Good idea, you could also use the edge of a thin spatula to push the glue in further. Wouldn't the drilling holes in the beams cause cracks or weaken them?
We've done this for years and years and it does nothing but make the pole 10 times stronger than it is currently. Thanks for watching, have a great day. Guru Mike
On furniture breaks I take a screw and drill a hole the threads won't catch on the first piece and a small hole the threads will catch on the piece I'm trying to reattach it to and get some wood glue inside and then screw it together. Recess it a little if looks are important. Probably stronger than new in a lot of instances. Easy way to squeeze it together at every screw point without using a bunch of clamps. Good video, would have never thought to fill splits like that on my porch.
Thanks for watching and sharing, we appreciate the input my friend, hope you have a great day. Gugu Mike & team
I've been looking to buy a Kung Fu wooden dummy and cracking of the wooden post seems to be a big problem with some of them. I'm not sure what they coat that center wooden post with but could keeping that main body "oiled" reduce or eliminate that cracking. Moisture (water) or the quick evaporation of water causes the cracks so would a linseed oil help prevent cracking?
Or some good waterproof stain. Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great weekend. Guru Mike & team
I was so pissed we renovated our deck in 2016 up to code then about 2019 I see some small splitting starting to form. The deck has southern exposure in NJ only the 4x6 posts started to split.
Maybe the pressure-treated wood from Home Depot & Lowe's is of lesser quality?
I didn't bury the posts used concrete ABA ZMAX Galvanized Adjustable Standoff Post Bases for 4x4 & 4x6
Lotta times they split like that from the big chain stores because they’re so green there is a lot of moisture in them they don’t dry them out well enough before they do the wolmanizing
I knew I recognized that voice! Sweet Project Cars is your other channel. I’m a LONG time viewer!
I’d love to hear more riding mower tips. What older mowers are the better ones. It’s a new area of learning for me. I’m a trained auto mechanic (1995) and I watch your Sweet Project Cars for tips. I’d love to learn about the mower.
My sons have always maintained our mowers because I do the cars. Now they grew up and left home it’s me and their Dad, who’s just learning anything mechanical.
Love your channel. Rock on! 🤘🏻
Welcome! Glad you found us here! Check this video out on mowers that we did ua-cam.com/video/KRxLYXj1pNs/v-deo.html hope it helps. Thanks so much for watching and commenting, we truly appreciate it, hope you have a fantastic day my friend. Guru Mike & team
Use a cordless caulking gun. Best thing since sliced bread for flawless caulk application.
Thanks for the tip! We appreciate the view my friend, hope you have a great week. Guru Mike & team
I wonder if it would be easier just to add another 4X4 beside it or maybe just a 2x4 beside it.
This repair was the best option for us, but thank you for the suggestion, have a great week. Guru Mike & team
Your caulking gun should have a tip cutter on it as well, but you knew that mr know it all. Thanks for the video, i presumed that would be the process. I would just replace the beam. That's load bearing. I wouldnt feel great with glue and/or lag screws holding up my overhang.
Alright, yes, I'm sure that there are positive reasons to replace it, but I didn't really want to bust the concrete pad up and disturb all of the landscaping and also have to jack up and hold the carrier up while doing this. Since the gazebo is close to 20 years old, this was the quickest, easiest way to make the pole last at least another 5 years. Had the gazebo been newer, replacement may have been and option other than having to bust the concrete up to do this. This goes the same with vehicles, if my brakes and tires all start going bad, I'm not going to replace the car. Thanks for watching, have a great week. Guru Mike
I was taught that the right glue is stronger than the wood, nails or screws we use when woodworking, this has served me well over the years.
I do understand the added protection one feels when replacing a not so perfect structure, though. 😊
Hi I’m a novice at this and am starting to redo my deck and it looks like this. Can you describe to me some of the vocabulary and tools you are using? Here are the things I would like to know:
1- what does powersink mean?
2- when you use the c clamp, what is that pipe you use to adjust the tightness and where do you get it?
3- Why do you have that paint stir stick between the c clamp and the wood? What’s the purpose?
5- Can i use the caulk on floorboards of my deck to fill in cracks?
Please re-watch the video a few times if necessary and listen carefully. You can do it! Thank you for watching, have a great week. Guru Mike & team
@MrKnowitAllGuru thanks for this great tip. My pergola post 6x6 is splitting. I will definitely use the glue in the crack. Would it be as good to use timber bolts OWT with part number 56695 instead of log screws? Or is it better to use log screws ? I already bought the OWT but haven’t use them yet. The OWT timber bolts are adjustable from both ends.
Would love to hear your advice- thanks.
You can use anything that you like as long as they are as heavy duty or more than the ones we use, so if your bolts are stronger, go ahead and use them. Thanks for watching and asking, have a great week and all the best on your project my friend. Guru Mike & team
Always add a 1/2" sawcut to the back of any post you install, to reduce surface tension which is what causes the cracks. That will either eliminate or greatly reduce cracking. The sawcut can be filled flush with a similar coloured caulking if so desired. Looks a lot better than the random cracking over time, and better protects the integrity of the post.
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great week Ron. Guru Mike & team
What do you mean by 1/2” saw cut?
@@neomacchio4692 I’m just guessing, but maybe he means to rip a half inch deep kerf the length of the post. Kind of like a relief cut in concrete? You know it’s going to crack, so control the crack? But I don’t see how this prevents the post from eventually splitting in half anyway.
Ledger bolts are the best .something this important i probably would have ripped some 1/2 " 3 1./2 wide plywood and glued and screwed to the outside . only because im in a 4 season area and need to be sealed better than in your nice sunny perfect weather area ...haha .i did have some 12 fts on a deck that needed attention and did this .keep up the good work .
Thank you so much for watching and sharing, we always appreciate the input, hope you have a great rest of your week my friend. Guru Mike
Man, YT algorithn giving me all kinds of useful DIY videos today without me even searching!
Nice! Glad to have you here with us! We appreciate the views and comment, hope you have a fantastic week my friend. Guru Mike
Great video! One situation came up for me which was there is a 1" wood attached to a ~4.5inch wood for a fence gate. I see nails sticking out a little in the crack. So I imagine taking out the nails and screws would be a setup step as well in that case. Or if that can't be done, oscillating tool or metal shear
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a fantastic day. Guru Mike & team
You should use 3” screws With the countersink. That way no cutting of the screws and no sanding except for the hardened glue.
If 3" screws would have been available, we would have used them. But even having to cut 1/2" off the end of the screw, it still pulled the split together. Thank you for watching John.
we have to fix 15 fence posts, that were put 2 years ago. Some cracks are bad and some posts have cracks on 3 sides. I was looking into the latest screws and HeadLOK brand doesn't make 3"L, they are either 2 7/8 or 4.5"L. The Simpson brand had similar strength, dia and proper coating of steel fasteners, but the head is hex with incorporated washer. So Me Know it all used what was the most available. Although I may settle for 2 7/8 fasteners since those are only 1/8 short of 3". I don't have time cutting the protruding ends of screws. Thank you for the awesome video an link for materials.
You are supposed to use wedges to further split the wood. Then you use tape to make the push out clean. Then you pilot hole for your screws or bolts and squeeze out. Then when it's done and dried, you add plugs before you sand.
Thank you for watching and sharing, have a great day. Guru Mike & team
How many screws can you cut with that Osc tool before its blade is no good? My experience is that Osc Tools have blades which quickly go bad
We use these amzn.to/3Y5ffeg and they last years and years and will cut any nails/screws you have. Thanks for watching and asking, have a fantastic week my friend. Guru Mike
I wouldn't countersink because I don't mind the above surface bolt head and it leaves all the material for the most strength. I would close those cracks up better first, though.
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great day. Guru Mike & team
I love how you are so inclusive. My father always told the ladies "This stuff doesn't just happen!".... We men need more help from all types.
Absolutely! Thank you for watching and sharing, hope you have a great day. Guru Mike & team
Thanks for making it look easy for us to do and to all of you subscribers who offer other gems of info, such as coating the ends in different things to stop rot.
I inherited the timber pergola when I bought my home, so have no idea as to what 'piece' of timber it is made with, but yes a few cracks are now showing, but I'm relieved to find that I repair and save money by not replacing these lengths.
Again, thankyou to all the information, new subscriber now.
Glad to help! Welcome Aboard! Thank you for watching and sharing, we really appreciate it, hope you enjoy the channel my friend. Guru Mike & team
Nice! ! Unlike most UA-cam DIY know-it-all commentators, I have nothing to add, except to say I’d do that job the same way! It should hold up for a good while!
thank you bill we appreciate that immensely
I have a fence post like this and wondering what I can do to reduce water exposure and protect it longer. Pressure treated. I need a filler patch. The plastic wood filler didn't work.
You need to use this amzn.to/3kcQj3T Samuel. Thanks for watching, have a great week and all the best on your project my friend. Guru Mike
You just earned a new follower. Just need the links to products used. Screws and caulk. Thanks
We used these amzn.to/3CK5zvD & amzn.to/3kcQj3T and just a reminder, all of the products/tools we use in our videos can be found in the .....More of the video description. Thanks for the view and sub Ray, hope you have a fantastic day and all the best on your project. Guru Mike & team
I would apply the lock tight before the clamp so it goes on deeper to get an even stronger hold.
Thanks for the view and comment, hope you have a great day my friend. Guru Mike & team
Why not apply the glue first, clamp the post, then put the screws in?
You can do it any way you want to, we are just sharing what we do and know works. Thanks for the view, have a great day. Guru Mike
I have a question for a fix? I have an old shed that i have taken apart and was going to use it as just an open porch (Just posts and metal lean to roof).However the bottom of the posts are rotted and once the walls came off I see it is not that sturdy.Any way to fix the bottom rotting beams without replacement? or just tear down the structure and rebuild?.
Basically the poles are your foundation, other than replacing each pole, your next option would be to tear it down. You could add a pole to each pole, screw and glue the new to the older pole, but that most likely would look mox nixed. If it was anything else other than the poles and the foundational aspect of them you could replace them, I guess you will have to be the judge of tearing down or just butting new poles to the old. Safety is the number one concern my friend. Hope this helps, thanks for watching, have a great week. Guru Mike
@@MrKnowItAllGuru Ok thank you for the swift reply you have my wheels turning will have to think about this lol.
I have seen so many split columns on newer jobs that i figure the newer lumber must be defective, so I no longer use 4X4 and larger, but laminate 2X's with ledger bolts or lag bolts. My jobs don't split out, so the only revisits I get are when the customer wants more work. Reworks don't make anyone happy.
Thanks for watching, have a great day. Guru Mike & team
Great idea, thank you. I'm going to tackle this job as soon as spring comes. ❤
Have fun Skippy! Thank you for watching and sharing, have a great day and all the best on your spring project my friend. Guru Mike
I love Julio’s name. That’s how you know he’s Mexican. He gots like 10 names.
You’re exactly right my friend he’s always changing his name to his real name is Julio Goteras Rodrigo Chavez Alverez merry Christmas my friend mad Mike
Do what they do on table tops, butterfly’s. Decorative and strong. Glue has no strength unless the wood touches.
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great day. Guru Mike & team
Please- everyone is a troll, I know- but cement is the binder that holds concrete or mortar together. Noticed this on your tapcon video too. But you’ve certainly helped this old carpenter with cars.
drew not sure what your comment meant but thanks anyhow...mike
" all the way to the cement" 0:50 and 3:45. Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition, or the Grammar Police!
What the?????? Lol, I am trying to understand.... 😊
@@sodbusteretta Cement, is the powder/aggregate mix, used to make concrete. Thats all he is saying. "Cement floor" is a misnomer.
I do the same thing, but I don't use glue, just drill a 3/8 clearance hole all the way across, no counter sink. Take a 3/8 carriage bolt 1/2" to 1" longer than the thickness usually 5", and hammer the head flush, so it doesn't turn. Put a (fender) washer under the nut and tighten. The clamping force goes all the way across just like the C-clamp did. Repeat as needed.
Thank you for the view and info Lou, we really appreciate the input, hope you have a great day my friend. Guru Mike & team
@@MrKnowItAllGuru Thanks for the kind words, you too. :)
YES! Much more clamping force with carriage bolt passing through a clearance hole.
Guarantee pressure-treated lumber from Home Depot or Lowe's will split, twist and a whole bunch of strange things. I had one long 4x4 ended up in a semicircle! Unbelievable moisture content.
Thanks for watching and sharing Kim, hope you have a great day. Guru Mike & team
Wow, what an exceptionally awesome tip for repairing a "split or splitting 4" x 4" Post!
Well done, Sir!
Glad you liked it! Thank you for watching and commenting, have a great weekend Robert. Guru Mike & team
Clamped joints have to kept under pressure with construction glue, until it sets.
Well our method that we show here works for us over the last 30 years perfectly thanks for your comment
He did. The screws are providing the pressure.
you can also use those metal strapping systems that crimp it and cut it works well
many different methods thats for sure ..thanks
Hey, thank you so much for your video. I have a strange question for you. I recently bought some one inch thick round slices of walnut. I assumed they were dried properly ect. BUT, I mounted some ferns to them and they are very happy there. Problem is, that now since I have to also plant wet moss to the center of them, the wood looks like someone is cutting out pieces of pizza! I can pout a vice on these due to the shape but I do have two extra to restart with. PLEASE tell me what to do or coat this wood with so when I remount the staghorn ferns, this wont happen again. Should I drill a hole in the center and then stain the wood or something? I could REALLY use your advice!!!
Can you please send me a few pics of your issue to sweetprojectcars@gmail.com we will see if we can get you pointed in the right direction my friend. Thanks for watching, have a great day. Guru Mike
@@MrKnowItAllGuru I would be happy to! email address, phone, either one?
Can I use this procedure to repair a splitting 6x6 support
You sure can Scott thanks for asking you may have to have longer screws just make sure they’re T30 torx and no less than 5 inches long Thanks for asking my friend mad mike out
The only thing that I could add to this, is that I would've tried to shove more clue further in the cracks, then squeezing the clamps some more, before securing the screw. 😉😎
Sounds good! Thank you for the view and comment, hope you have a great weekend my friend. Guru Mike & team
Such an EXCELLENT fix for the wood!! I will remember this one for sure! Thank you!! Say hello to Consuela :)
It is Erin, you will be super happy with the results! Thank you for watching and being a great subscriber, we appreciate you, I will pass your regards to Consuela :) Have a fantastic day my friend. Guru Mike
That's a nice trick, Mike. Thanks for sharing. Have a great Sunday, Nico.
Thanks Nico, its always a pleasure to hear from you my friend, hope you have a great week. GuruMike
Really like this and I have some splits like that on my deck.
Glad we could help Sean! Thank you for watching and sharing, have a great day my friend. Guru Mike
thanks for this. just installed a pergola myself and appreciate you shouting out that women and even young kids can learn this
Glad it was helpful! We include men, women, and kids because they need to know this stuff as well Kareen! Thank you so much for watching and commenting, hope you have a great weekend. Guru Mike & team
It would be easier, cheaper and quicker just to replace the post. Just my opinion but good option if you can't. For example with The Ledger would the process would be good for that, thanks!
You can do whatever you want to do Jorge, we are just sharing an effective, quick fix that will last years and years. Thanks for watching. Guru Mike
Should have put wood block behind c clamps shoe to prevent dimpling the post.
I did. Thanks for the view, have a great day. Guru Mike & team
I have a simplicity mower like that, nice unit and those engines are good too.
Yes they are! They don't make them like these anymore :( Thanks for the view and comment, have a great day my friend. Guru Mike & team
What you do is replace it so it’s fixed and not cobbled
You can do whatever you want to do, our fix worked and it worked great, and it looks perfect after doing this and re-staining it. Thanks. Guru Mike & team
Had similar - but brushed in some rot converter/preserver and let it dry before filling, and then painting. 7 years later still no problems.
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great day. Guru Mike
Awesome, that gave me a good chuckle. Thanks
Glad you liked it! Thank you for the view and comment, hope you have a great week. Guru Mike & team
If you purchase posts for a deck and the boards have experienced checking, the best solution is to lay them on their side and pour a bead of Titebond waterproof glue in the cracks. DO NOT clamp at first. Let the glue sink in by gravity alone. There is no need to push the glue in. Then, come back in 10 minutes and repeat the process until the glue doesn't sink in any longer. THEN, use clamps to compress the beams and let the glue dry. After the glue has dried, sand lightly with 220 grit using an orbital sander, and they will be perfect. Pro Tip - when installing the deck posts, orient them with the glued side facing the next post so the repairs will not be visible once the rails are all in place. The posts will never check and look perfect!
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great day. Guru Mike & team
Going to do this on my pool deck…thanks for the awesome tip👍
Great to hear that Jason it will work like crazy...and it is fast to do just keep the clamps on for a few days until you know the glue is really set..thanks mad mike
Great video - I repaired 4x4 and 6x6 posts before - But I pull them together(as close as possible without damage) with 8 or 10 inch C clamps and then I cut one half inch plywood pieces to size and C clamp those to the posts on both sides of the post where the cracks are, then use deck screws and screw them through the plywood from both sides to hold everything together, then release all the C clamps and paint the posts with the plywood attached. - I never used an adhesive in the cracks but might try it next time I do this - but very good video.
Basically I'm scabbing pieces of plywood on two sides of the post the full length of the post and fastening them to the post with deck screws!
Glad to help Krispy!! Thank you for watching and sharing, hope you have a great day my friend. Guru Mike & team
How has this repair held up over time?
Looks as good as it does in the video, it's an awesome repair. We applied some new stain and you can't even tell there was a repair! Thanks for watching and asking, have a great day. Guru Mike
Excellent work and information.
Thank you for sharing 👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻
Our pleasure to share! Thank you for watching and commenting, we really appreciate it, hope you have a fantastic week my friend. Guru Mike & team
@@MrKnowItAllGuru
You too as well.
Thank you and God bless. Keep up the great work and information 👍🏻
Why do you need a hammer drill for screws?
If you're going to buy a screw gun, make sure you get one that has the hammerdrill option on it. Then one day when you need a hammerdrill, you've got it! Thanks for the view, have a great day. Guru Mike & team
I always use steel posts !!!!
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great day. Guru Mike & team
That wouldn't look good if you wanted wood ones.
This video was not relevant to me yet I LOVED IT!:D
Great tip if I ever need it. TY mate!!!
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a fantastic day. Guru Mike & team
I might have used wood glue for exterior use and two long flat stock bars with the C- clamps to close the crack.
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great day. Guru Mike & team
Thank,you I have that problem but not no more love your video 😂❤
Happy to help! Thanks for watching and sharing Craig, have a great day. Guru Mike & team
Use a putty knife or some other thin "tool" to push the adhesive deeper into the crack.
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great day. Guru Mike & team
Will the glue take stain?
This amzn.to/3kcQj3T sure does! We stained right over our repair, and it looks GREAT! Thanks for watching and asking, have a fantastic week my friend. Guru Mike & team
Curious, is that the only 4x4 with this issue. I bet the post is not level.
There's a couple others that have the issue not as bad as this particular one. Thanks for watching Dave, have a great weekend. Guru Mike
Will this glue work in the MN winter cold weather?
It sure will Kang! Thanks for watching and asking, have a great week my friend. Guru Mike
SWEEEEET-Project ! Luv yur pool looks so cool.
Thank you very much! We have really enjoyed it this year, it was a hot one down here in FLA :) Thanks for the view and comment, hope you have a fantastic day my friend. Guru Mike & team
@@MrKnowItAllGuru Hope you also keeps our vehicles in tip top shape as well. Like scratched up plastic Clearcoat and small dented body work.
Thanks for the tips.
Happy to help John! Thank you for watching and commenting, have a great weekend my friend. Guru Mike
Thank you for the helpful video.
Our pleasure Grant! Thank you for watching and commenting, have a great weekend my friend. Guru Mike
Can we counter sink with the regular wood screws? Or is there a specific type of screw you'd recommend? Thank you
These amzn.to/3rZUcxA might work best for you if you are doing 4x4 poles because they are only 3 1/2" long so you will be able to countersink without having them poke out the other side. Thank you so much for watching and asking, have a fantastic day my friend. Guru Mike
How about just replacing the post?
The post wasn't rotted, so we did the best most inexpensive fix known to man. Have a great day. Guru Mike
thank you experience at work
Glad to share Vincent! Thanks for the view and comment, hope you have a great day. Guru Mike & team
Some of these screws also have fitting bolts. Couldve used them bolts instead grinding away the screws.
6 of 1, half a dozen of another, we were just trying to keep the costs down, we're going broke in this economy :) Thanks. Guru Mike
Use automotive filler like Bondo to fill the cracks; it's epoxy.
Thanks for watching, have a great day. Guru Mike & team
50 years. Never seen a post sheer. 🤔
Lucky you! Thanks for watching, have a great day. Guru Mike & team
Why didn't you use epoxy glue?
Because this amzn.to/3kcQj3T works best for us, it'll be 20 or 30 years before there's an issue with this again, I'm sure I'll be 6' under before then :) Thanks for watching, have a great day. Guru Mike
Would it be better to replace it?
Alright, yes, I'm sure that there are positive reasons to replace it, but I didn't really want to bust the concrete pad up and disturb all of the landscaping and also have to jack up and hold the carrier up while doing this. Since the gazebo is close to 20 years old, this was the quickest, easiest way to make the pole last at least another 5 years. Had the gazebo been newer, replacement may have been and option other than having to bust the concrete up to do this. This goes the same with vehicles, if my brakes and tires all start going bad, I'm not going to replace the car. Same goes for brake discs, if your brake discs need to be ground, you don't just replace them, you have them ground for a third of the cost. Thanks for watching. Guru Mike
@@MrKnowItAllGuru Wow. thank you for the response. I really do not expect a response from any poster. Rhetorical question, IMO, but really happy you provided a detailed reasoned response. Thank you again.
That is called checking and should not effect the structure.
Agreed! Thanks for watching, have a great day Jack. Guru Mike
Mr Fixer ran out of things that actually needs fixing 😀
Yo Teddy when someone like Kerry has been with uis for years and years as a great subscriber we try to help them..Mike
Great tip!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you very much for the view, hope you have a great week my friend. Guru Mike & team
Use as many. Clamps as you can get
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a great day my friend. Guru Mike
Was buying a new 4x4 post an option? I would never want to hear my contractor say he likes to do the job with the least amount of tools.
The integrity of the pole is still good, so we shared this method to show the average DIYer how to fix the splits. No contractor involved here. Thanks for watching, have a great day. Guru Mike
Big box stores are so dangerous. Giving confidence to anyone that has money. Pro tip: don’t buy lumber from the orange or blue store. Freebie: For the cost of a tube of construction adhesive and structural screws, you can replace the 4x4.
Problem is replacing the 4 x 4 was not an option for us and many people don’t have the option to replace the pole ours were cemented in to the concrete pad and concreted below and attached to the carrier above making it very very difficult and dangerous and very very very time consuming this method has worked for us for over 20 some years and it’s very fast and have not had a pole come apart sense have a great day thank you for your comment GuruMike
Where do I buy lumber?
The problem is mostly because of the method they treat the wood nowadays. I will agree though, I used to work at Lowe’s and can’t tell you some horror stories about the lumber that comes into the stores!
@@notusedexer get on yellow pages for local lumber yards or Millwork warehouses
I have some steps made of 6x6 wood posts with brick inserts. There is nothing to clamp. Would glueing work or bondo or something else?
Moisture acting on a poorly selected post that was cut in such a way that wants to twist in response to moisture changes, combined with a lack of kiln drying, lack of end grain sealing and inadequate finish coating is why the timber is splitting. If the timber is structural post it the timber should be replaced. If its cosmetic, construction adhesive is primarily a sealer/filler in this application, but because it's solvent based nature will trap moisture in the wood in the worst possible place. A better material is low expansion polyurethane foam used as insulation around in door frames. It adheres better to damp wood actually absorbing the moisture from the wood in its chemical reaction, flows better into small cracks and once cured is a better crack filler and a more effective, paintable, moisture barrier.
Thanks for watching and sharing, have a fantastic day. Guru Mike & team
It seems no one else has correctly explained why the post is splitting. It is because is was cut from the center of the tree. Look at the end grain when buying posts. If you see concentric circular tree rings, that is bad, it with split. If you see broader crescent shaped tree rings it will not twist or split.
Hey Mike first off thank you so much!
So what size of counter sink drill bit was that?
Did you fill in those holes where the bolt head went in and with what? Just that glue.
I have been staining my wood for years and was thinking about painting it instead. I noticed your posts and other wood was painted so with what paint?
Looks like I need to get more supplies lol 😆
No problem Kerry, the bits amzn.to/3ivaiut 9/16 I filled the hole with the amzn.to/3kcQj3T and the paint is Behr Solid Color House & Fence Wood Stain we picked up at Home Depot thanks much Mike
@MrKnowItAllGuru
Thank you again Mr. Mike 👍🏻
you are very welcome kerry
Excellent sir!
Glad you liked it Andy! Thank you for watching and commenting, hope you have a fantastic week. Guru Mike
The glue is being used as putti, cuz till the time two split contact each other, glue won't work, most likely. The screw is actually holding the split.
This kind of complete wood split shows the wood is too week now and the piller needs to be replaced.
It repaired our problem! Thanks for the view, have a great day. Guru Mike & team