I never realised I knew so many obscenities until the first time I worked on a car. Even this morning I changed the bonnet gas struts and the clips were a pain in the arse. Got sick of the bonnet falling on my head, that’s another story that involved a whole string of obscenities.
Not all of them are that hard to do, yours looks like it was driven on a beach and submerged in the Brisbane river in the 2010 floods. Mine is a 2004 model & everything almost fell apart. Just remember to mark everything precisely before you start so you can match & line up all the parts exactly how they were fitted (so, mark the Diff & transmission to match up with the tail-shaft too). Some people forget that tail-shafts are balanced before they are originally fitted to a new vehicle. If you mix up the alignment you can inadvertently give the vehicle a decent vibration at speed. So in my opinion its a better idea to only have to do it once. Also, change both front & rear universals as well as the tail-shaft carrier bearing & you will be sweet for many more thousands of kilometers. cheers
Can you please tell me if the bearing you used in this application was the 30mm or 35mm type? I currently need to do my 05/2006 BF XR6T and not sure if it has the uni joint??
From the research just completed you would have to get under the car to measure (I know a pain) but there was no clear answer both the 30 and 35 mm was used in this model while under the car look for a metal object like a "plus sign" that's the universal joint if you have to remove this to access the Centre bearing then you would replace it. Good Luck
I just ordered my centre bearing from Ebay, it is my understanding that if there is a uni joint behind the bearing it is a 30mm (even with turbo models) but if it's a cv joint behind the tailshaft centre bearing it is 35mm.
My Ford Falcon BF making shaving noise when foot released off accelerator. Going uphill it disappears. What is causing this sound? Replaced tyres..brakes..discs you name it as advised by so called qualified mechanics, but noise still their.
I actually got lucky when I had new tyres put on my car the guys that fitted them told me that the centre bearing looks worn - until that stage there were no symptoms so I jacked the car up the rubber was clearly worn on the rear facing section, the front facing section showed hardly any wear. Its a good idea to check when you change the oil it could save you some pricey repairs if you need to make hurried repairs via a mechanic.
Before taking the drive shaft off I marked the Drive Shaft at the Transmission end with liquid paper, so when it came time to rebolt back on it was just a case of realigning the lines made previously - haven't had a problem (yet)
I get a sort of 'rumble' noise when at ~90kph. I've imagined it may be the rear wheel bearings/hub assembly as sometimes I hear a squeak a low speeds (more so when turning). Wondering now if the ctr bearing could be the culprit. Seems more likely... Given the added possibility of the U joint being worn out can anyone suggest the cheapest systematic repair strategy? IOW, what would be the order of cheapest repair issue first?
How did you drive the car up on ramps without the bumper scraping? I tried with my ba falcon xr6t forwards and backwards but both the front and rear bumper would have scraped then ramps.
Cheers :) I'll give it a shot, did you have to remove the exhaust to get the tail shaft out? Mine's the turbo version so exhaust may be different, but heat shielding was taken off for high flow cat. I'd put the rear end up on ramps otherwise the trans fluid might go everywhere when I pull the tail shaft out.
No exhaust removal just all the bolts - don't forget to put plenty of Permatex Penetrate or WD40 - on the yoke, universal joints in the lead up to taking it out they tend to get a bit tight through years and will need a lot of banging.
I never realised I knew so many obscenities until the first time I worked on a car. Even this morning I changed the bonnet gas struts and the clips were a pain in the arse. Got sick of the bonnet falling on my head, that’s another story that involved a whole string of obscenities.
Not all of them are that hard to do, yours looks like it was driven on a beach and submerged in the Brisbane river in the 2010 floods.
Mine is a 2004 model & everything almost fell apart. Just remember to mark everything precisely before you start so you can match & line up all the parts exactly how they were fitted (so, mark the Diff & transmission to match up with the tail-shaft too). Some people forget that tail-shafts are balanced before they are originally fitted to a new vehicle. If you mix up the alignment you can inadvertently give the vehicle a decent vibration at speed. So in my opinion its a better idea to only have to do it once. Also, change both front & rear universals as well as the tail-shaft carrier bearing & you will be sweet for many more thousands of kilometers.
cheers
Robert Boyd hey bro how much would you estimate all parts needed for the replacement of universals and bearing
Good vid. It always takes longer than you think it will.
Can you please tell me if the bearing you used in this application was the 30mm or 35mm type?
I currently need to do my 05/2006 BF XR6T and not sure if it has the uni joint??
From the research just completed you would have to get under the car to measure (I know a pain) but there was no clear answer both the 30 and 35 mm was used in this model while under the car look for a metal object like a "plus sign" that's the universal joint if you have to remove this to access the Centre bearing then you would replace it. Good Luck
I just ordered my centre bearing from Ebay, it is my understanding that if there is a uni joint behind the bearing it is a 30mm (even with turbo models) but if it's a cv joint behind the tailshaft centre bearing it is 35mm.
Yo what are all the torque specs for everything?
My Ford Falcon BF making shaving noise when foot released off accelerator. Going uphill it disappears. What is causing this sound? Replaced tyres..brakes..discs you name it as advised by so called qualified mechanics, but noise still their.
Hi there, just wondering what the symptoms of a bad centre bearing? Did you get a vibrating noise around 1600 - 2200 rpm in all gears?
I actually got lucky when I had new tyres put on my car the guys that fitted them told me that the centre bearing looks worn - until that stage there were no symptoms so I jacked the car up the rubber was clearly worn on the rear facing section, the front facing section showed hardly any wear. Its a good idea to check when you change the oil it could save you some pricey repairs if you need to make hurried repairs via a mechanic.
ADC Melb same here for my 2006 bf but i do get a big knock sound when i pull out of hard acceleration, wondering if this is centre bearing related?
Could be diff bushes
@@AstroBananna hey mate i got this issue did the cemtre bearing fix it ?
@@pkae85 yeah mate fixed it dim sim
how did you go with balanceing
Before taking the drive shaft off I marked the Drive Shaft at the Transmission end with liquid paper, so when it came time to rebolt back on it was just a case of realigning the lines made previously - haven't had a problem (yet)
I get a sort of 'rumble' noise when at ~90kph. I've imagined it may be the rear wheel bearings/hub assembly as sometimes I hear a squeak a low speeds (more so when turning). Wondering now if the ctr bearing could be the culprit. Seems more likely...
Given the added possibility of the U joint being worn out can anyone suggest the cheapest systematic repair strategy?
IOW, what would be the order of cheapest repair issue first?
Hey mate, did you work out what the rumble was? Cheers
How did you drive the car up on ramps without the bumper scraping? I tried with my ba falcon xr6t forwards and backwards but both the front and rear bumper would have scraped then ramps.
Never had any issues with the bumpers the front came close - another way is to jack the front up and slide the ramps under the wheels
Cheers :) I'll give it a shot, did you have to remove the exhaust to get the tail shaft out? Mine's the turbo version so exhaust may be different, but heat shielding was taken off for high flow cat. I'd put the rear end up on ramps otherwise the trans fluid might go everywhere when I pull the tail shaft out.
No exhaust removal just all the bolts - don't forget to put plenty of Permatex Penetrate or WD40 - on the yoke, universal joints in the lead up to taking it out they tend to get a bit tight through years and will need a lot of banging.
I'm only changing the centre bearing, I'll just leave the universal joint alone. Did any trans fluid come out when you took the tail shaft out?
No there was no transmission fluid out the car was an automatic not such what the situation is with manual gear boxes
Sounds pretty srtaight forward 😂