You’re right mate, they were totally flogged and you’ve just reminded me to order some new ones. Funny thing, this is the third B-Series I’ve taken over the pits and all three have them had bumps stops like that and not one of them were picked…. Weird.
@Jeenzy79 Yeah. The roady assessors are funny and if you took it to another one, they'll pick on something else. The bloke that's going to buy the car off you should be pretty stoked. I would. As the cars I've seen are shitters and neglected.
@@vincekara9446 I know right, it’s getting harder and harder to find these cars in good condition. Most of them are just thrashed with no maintenance at all, which is a shame coz they are reliable as hell when they’re maintained. I thought it was strange they didn’t pick up on the sway bar links coz the bushes on those have seen better days too.
Oooh shit I'm sensing nightmares tonight... I did this about 10years ago, was a pain in the ass but satisfying at the same time. Good job with the tutorial 👍
With the wheel speed sensors i found its easier to pull up the rear seat and unplug them from the loom then feed them though the floor then remove the one holder from the front blade arm
Hey mate, yep that’s another way to do it, only thing I found doing that is the little clips that hold them in always break when you pull them out… plus I usually leave those blade arms in the car so the sensor just stays with them.
@Jeenzy79 at our shop in all fairness when we do them we just remove the blades but if you go behind where the clip is and push you can just pop the clip out. You also have less risk dammageing the sensor
@@snapped4433 Ah yes I’m with ya. I’ve never actually left the blade arms on, guessing that would be a lot easier way to do it. I need to do another set of bushes in the near future so I’ll have a crack at doing it that way. Cheers mate. 🍻
Another tip is the inner bolt for the passenger upper control arm, take the bolt out and put back in bacward then cut the excess thread hanging out of the end of the nut (so the thread dosent foul on the fuel tank when the cradle is refitted). Then if that arm needs replacing in the future, the cradle doesn't need to come out
Ah nice one mate. Not too hard at all, just make sure you have a tool ready for putting the new ones in… And leave the centre unbolted till you have all 3 bushes in, that way you can move it around out of your way when installing the new bushes.
Great videos mate, what else should be changed besides diff bushes while the cradle is out? Does the cradle need to be out to change all those other arms and bushes ?
Cheers mate, hopefully someone finds them useful. Definitely worth looking at the trailing arm bushes, they’re prone to failing… also worth checking the Swaybar links as well. If you’re going to be changing any rear arms out it definitely helps to have the cradle out just to have good access to the bolts. It’s really not that hard to get it out though if you have the basic tool. A big jack definitely helps.
Thanks mate. Pretty sure it will… only thing different will be the diff itself as well as the axles I’d say but as far as bolting in, should all go in as normal.
Hey mate, just wondering where your located I've got an fgx xr6 turbo and my rear diff bushes are completely buggered and I'm struggling to get my car into anywhere to get it fixed until late January I've ordered them same or similar bushes for it said they were for an fgx thinking I could do it myself but not sure I have the tools for it and a place to pull it all out as I was going to do it in a mates drive way but realised it's not the best place to do it lol if your located in qld and have time in a couple of weeks if I gave you $800 and a hand doing it would you be interested in giving me a hand doing it? just thought I'd ask as you know what your doing
Does it matter if you take a cradle from another car but keep the weights from your tailshaft in the same spot?? Ive got a shell with a spare cradle, I'll be doing bushes and rubber all around, new seals and a diff service as my car's diff and bushes are absolutely flogged, bent blade arm and an axle is gone. don't get me started on wheel barings and brakes.. 🤣 so i figured a whole new cradle rebuild was better. What i need to know. Is, will it vibrate if i swap cradles? I'll be very careful to keep the weights in the same place on my tailshaft, I'll be doing my centre baring in the process as well
I’ve no idea mate, I’m certainly no mechanic… But I have put a complete second hand tailshaft into a couple of cars now and completely left the counterweights off completely and had no vibration issues whatsoever. I would assume if you marked where the weights are before removing them you’d be fine 🤷🏼♂️
@@Jeenzy79 go on and spoil yourself i give you permission haha btw i just watched part two of this and with putting the bushes back in can't you just use a bit of lube on the outside then just smack them back in with a block of wood and a hammer?
I’ll just tell the Mrs it’s all your fault when she see’s the bank transaction 😂🤣😂 I actually did my very first set of bushes that way… wish it was as easy as it sounds. It did end up working in the end but it was a pain in the ass doing it that way by myself. Using a bit of threaded bar is no effort and seems to work well.
I've just dropped the diff on a sz territory to do the bushes. About to jack the diff back up and bolt it on. I heard I need to align the diff cradle with dowels or aligning some holes? How do you go about aligning the diff when putting it back on? Also with the front rear diff bushes in I have a 5mil clearance from the diff mount for the bush and the cradle, is that enough clearance? Cheers..
@@michaelkong2682 Hey mate, yup 5mm should be enough clearance on the front bolts. A lot of people just put them in flush but if you look at the support arm that hold the diff to the cradle (the arm that the front diff bush bolts to) it can actually rub or hit on the cradle itself when the car is under load. That’s why you need to have the bushes sit beyond flush like you’ve done… it will give the support arms clearance from the cradle itself if that makes sense. As for lifting up the cradle when putting it back in, the very top plate has a big hole on either side, and if you look underneath the body of the car where the cradle goes back in there is a corresponding hole on the body. All I do is get the cradle up under the car and get the 4 main big nuts in to hold it in place and as it’s hanging there you just need to line the holes on the top plate of the cradle up to the holes in the body as you’re doing up the nuts. A lot of the time they will line up perfectly by themselves, sometimes they’re off just a smidge but with the bolts and nuts still loose it’s really easy to line it all up again. Hope that makes sense mate. If you’ve already got the new bushes in the hard part is done. Hope that helps. Good luck with it mate.
This is great coverage of what’s required. Thanks for taking the extra time it took to record this as you were going, it’s much appreciated 😎
Aha, no probs at all mate. Hopefully someone gets something out of it.
Cheers 👍🏼
I have a bf f6 and I’ve done this to mine,it’s still work and not for the faint hearted,good job
Nice… the F6 is the best of the B-Series in my opinion. Thanks mate!
I've daily'd my Typhoon for so long I'm about to do this again urghh lol But yeah not a fun job requires lots of swearing!!
Awesome tutorial. Looks like the bump stops need replacing too. The most easiest of the jobs. Cheers
You’re right mate, they were totally flogged and you’ve just reminded me to order some new ones. Funny thing, this is the third B-Series I’ve taken over the pits and all three have them had bumps stops like that and not one of them were picked…. Weird.
@Jeenzy79 Yeah. The roady assessors are funny and if you took it to another one, they'll pick on something else. The bloke that's going to buy the car off you should be pretty stoked. I would. As the cars I've seen are shitters and neglected.
@@vincekara9446 I know right, it’s getting harder and harder to find these cars in good condition. Most of them are just thrashed with no maintenance at all, which is a shame coz they are reliable as hell when they’re maintained. I thought it was strange they didn’t pick up on the sway bar links coz the bushes on those have seen better days too.
Oooh shit I'm sensing nightmares tonight... I did this about 10years ago, was a pain in the ass but satisfying at the same time. Good job with the tutorial 👍
Thanks mate, hope it wasn’t too traumatizing for you 😂
Sincere effort to demonstrate the process.
@@Mrkhalidzia Cheers mate! 🍻
Nice work m8 - from NZ 🇳🇿
Cheers mate 🍻
With the wheel speed sensors i found its easier to pull up the rear seat and unplug them from the loom then feed them though the floor then remove the one holder from the front blade arm
Hey mate, yep that’s another way to do it, only thing I found doing that is the little clips that hold them in always break when you pull them out… plus I usually leave those blade arms in the car so the sensor just stays with them.
@Jeenzy79 at our shop in all fairness when we do them we just remove the blades but if you go behind where the clip is and push you can just pop the clip out. You also have less risk dammageing the sensor
@@snapped4433 Ah yes I’m with ya. I’ve never actually left the blade arms on, guessing that would be a lot easier way to do it. I need to do another set of bushes in the near future so I’ll have a crack at doing it that way.
Cheers mate. 🍻
Another tip is the inner bolt for the passenger upper control arm, take the bolt out and put back in bacward then cut the excess thread hanging out of the end of the nut (so the thread dosent foul on the fuel tank when the cradle is refitted). Then if that arm needs replacing in the future, the cradle doesn't need to come out
good tutorial, going to have a crack at my BA XR 8 now it's up on stands already as I'm doing a spoiler kit all round.
Ah nice one mate. Not too hard at all, just make sure you have a tool ready for putting the new ones in… And leave the centre unbolted till you have all 3 bushes in, that way you can move it around out of your way when installing the new bushes.
is the jack stands placed on the chassis rails?
Yeah mate, I always make sure to put them under a structural part underneath.
Have you seen any videos of removing, replacing the live rear axle from an fg ute at all?
I haven’t sorry mate.
Great videos mate, what else should be changed besides diff bushes while the cradle is out? Does the cradle need to be out to change all those other arms and bushes ?
Cheers mate, hopefully someone finds them useful. Definitely worth looking at the trailing arm bushes, they’re prone to failing… also worth checking the Swaybar links as well. If you’re going to be changing any rear arms out it definitely helps to have the cradle out just to have good access to the bolts. It’s really not that hard to get it out though if you have the basic tool. A big jack definitely helps.
great video, i was just wondering will a xr6t cradle go straight into xr6?
Thanks mate. Pretty sure it will… only thing different will be the diff itself as well as the axles I’d say but as far as bolting in, should all go in as normal.
The location your purchasing those oem
@@iainsouter783 Hey mate, I ordered the parts from eBay.
awesome vid bro thank u for this
Thanks mate! 👍🏼
Great video
Thanks mate 👍🏼
Hey mate, just wondering where your located I've got an fgx xr6 turbo and my rear diff bushes are completely buggered and I'm struggling to get my car into anywhere to get it fixed until late January I've ordered them same or similar bushes for it said they were for an fgx thinking I could do it myself but not sure I have the tools for it and a place to pull it all out as I was going to do it in a mates drive way but realised it's not the best place to do it lol if your located in qld and have time in a couple of weeks if I gave you $800 and a hand doing it would you be interested in giving me a hand doing it? just thought I'd ask as you know what your doing
Hey sorry mate but I’m actually in Perth
@Jeenzy79 yeah thought it might of been a long shot you were in qld but thought you never know lol cheers for the reply anyway mate
@@JarradRobaard-xw3kv No probs mate, hope you get it sorted.
I've got a BA. There are too many faults to count.😢
I got two BAs and an AU and everytime I replace a broken part it feels like a new car
Subscribed 👍
Awesome mate saved me heaps , love the information
Cheers mate, glad you found it useful 👍🏼
Does it matter if you take a cradle from another car but keep the weights from your tailshaft in the same spot??
Ive got a shell with a spare cradle, I'll be doing bushes and rubber all around, new seals and a diff service as my car's diff and bushes are absolutely flogged, bent blade arm and an axle is gone. don't get me started on wheel barings and brakes.. 🤣 so i figured a whole new cradle rebuild was better.
What i need to know. Is, will it vibrate if i swap cradles? I'll be very careful to keep the weights in the same place on my tailshaft, I'll be doing my centre baring in the process as well
I’ve no idea mate, I’m certainly no mechanic… But I have put a complete second hand tailshaft into a couple of cars now and completely left the counterweights off completely and had no vibration issues whatsoever. I would assume if you marked where the weights are before removing them you’d be fine 🤷🏼♂️
Why do like my bloody cat always in the way 😅but he's my mate
Mine is the same, he likes to snoop his was through the cars when I’m working on them. He usually falls asleep in the boot 😆
next diff or gearbox you need to remove from a car an ATV lifter is way batter then trying to balance it on a jack 😎
Cheers mate. That’s an awesome idea!
I don’t have one of those though unfortunately.
@@Jeenzy79 go on and spoil yourself i give you permission haha
btw i just watched part two of this and with putting the bushes back in can't you just use a bit of lube on the outside then just smack them back in with a block of wood and a hammer?
I’ll just tell the Mrs it’s all your fault when she see’s the bank transaction 😂🤣😂
I actually did my very first set of bushes that way… wish it was as easy as it sounds. It did end up working in the end but it was a pain in the ass doing it that way by myself. Using a bit of threaded bar is no effort and seems to work well.
I've just dropped the diff on a sz territory to do the bushes. About to jack the diff back up and bolt it on. I heard I need to align the diff cradle with dowels or aligning some holes? How do you go about aligning the diff when putting it back on? Also with the front rear diff bushes in I have a 5mil clearance from the diff mount for the bush and the cradle, is that enough clearance? Cheers..
@@michaelkong2682 Hey mate, yup 5mm should be enough clearance on the front bolts. A lot of people just put them in flush but if you look at the support arm that hold the diff to the cradle (the arm that the front diff bush bolts to) it can actually rub or hit on the cradle itself when the car is under load. That’s why you need to have the bushes sit beyond flush like you’ve done… it will give the support arms clearance from the cradle itself if that makes sense. As for lifting up the cradle when putting it back in, the very top plate has a big hole on either side, and if you look underneath the body of the car where the cradle goes back in there is a corresponding hole on the body. All I do is get the cradle up under the car and get the 4 main big nuts in to hold it in place and as it’s hanging there you just need to line the holes on the top plate of the cradle up to the holes in the body as you’re doing up the nuts. A lot of the time they will line up perfectly by themselves, sometimes they’re off just a smidge but with the bolts and nuts still loose it’s really easy to line it all up again.
Hope that makes sense mate. If you’ve already got the new bushes in the hard part is done.
Hope that helps. Good luck with it mate.
@Jeenzy79 thanks for ya help.. all done. Great videos.
@@michaelkong2682 Awesome mate… nice one! Cheers for the feedback too, much appreciated 👍🏼