My BA MKll Fairlane had this tailshaft vibration and after spending silly amounts of money having the tailshaft balanced 3 times OFF the vehicle I discovered that dealerships do it ON the vehicle. takes little to no time and gets rid of the vibration straight away. I'd recommend having this done by a dealership who's experienced at doing it. Apparently, it's a common thing.
Without the actual balancer i think all you can do is go big increments at a time. Tip....be sure to have the weight on the rear suspension and wheel nuts holding the discs on when you're 'balancing'.👍
@@rhyswoodman6781 Hi Rhys how would you put the weight on the rear suspension if your doing this job like i have to at home ie where to place the jacks cheers mate
Ordered my weights from Ford today. Been chasing the same issue for 12 months, after full tailshaft rebuild, new tyres, rims restored, new rotors and pads, and gearbox mount. It's alot better than it was but hopefully now I can sort it out once and for all 🤙🏻
If that centre bearing is new check that it's not a repco one...I have had a few new in box that were far too soft allowing the shaft to move around! Great to see you overcoming the vibration issues as that can ruin the driving experience!!
super stoked you got it sorted man. i had been chasing a rattle on my BA for months that turned out to be the inside of the cat converter, took ages to diagnose. so i know the feels of a win like that.
Congratulations on the tail shaft fix and thanks for documenting your trials and tribulations along the way. Now the rest of us who enjoy these old vehicles have confidence that we can do it too! I hope that you enjoy your ride to the fullest. 😊
@@SteveMack Bear in mind that the BA is 20 years old and most have travelled the equivalent of 6 times around the earth if not more. They are just wearing out.
Awesome diagnosis as iv seen those clip on weights get thrown in the bin I do make a point of marking position of the weights and hangar bearing and position of driveshaft whenever I remove the driveshaft from the vehicle making installation easier and accurate
Be careful not to diagnose axle issues when the suspension is drooped as the geometry can be weird. Try to get a second set of axle stands and hold the trailing arms close to where they would be on the road. Falcons also have a vibration issue at 80km/h+ caused by the brake booster. There is a small rod inside the booster that you give a quarter turn and can make a huge difference. If you’re changing the front brake rotors then throw in some new wheel bearing. Super easy to change and not too expensive.
I put on some new shocks this week and flushed the clutch fluid! Cars feels much better! Always nice to do some work and feel the benefits!! Keep the content rolling mate!!
Oh wow I've been watching most if your barra related videos for years and never knew you live out my way! I've got an 08 fg turbo I've just rebuilt the motor with some stronger parts after sitting for a few years and back on the road hopefully soon! Thanks for your videos! It definitely helped me a few times with things I wasn't sure about!
FG does run the same weights. My oem ones were in a white plastic casing. They’re now redundant. The uni joints in the FG tail shaft are non-replaceable. They’re spiked in place, and the castings have no way to fit a circlip. You can do a dodgy fix, but it would be hard to centre the uni and spike it in place again. So I had a new shaft made, with replaceable units (and CV) and it’s balanced properly (like tailshafts of old were done). It’s as smooth as anything, with no need to run those weights.
Thanks mate, I didn't know you could buy those weights. I've always just sent the shaft away and had it reconditioned and it comes back smooth as silk for around $200.
Really loving the progress Sean! I really wish that there was a place that you could legally test the top speed of the car. But yeah you should do some roll racing for sure, and film how just fast you are going.
Seeing you rolling onto the highway past goodna maccas takes me back😅 I got my P’s and was living in Bellbird park and would punch onto that highway every single day to work 🙏🏼 was only here to troubleshoot my BA vibrations but you’ve managed to score my further interests 😅
FWIW: The yellow dot on the diff flange indicates the light side of the axial balance and that should match up with a yellow dot on the tailshaft flange. The assembly should be match marked before anything is removed to allow it all to be put back together and torqued to 72Nm. The centre bearing sometimes have shims fitted and they should also be marked which side and go back to there original spot and the bolts are torqued 36Nm.
Driveline vibrations do my head in soo bad. My WM statesman had it so I did the flexible couplings and had the tailshaft redone (new centre bearing etc) and balanced and it was great.. Got 2014 WN Caprice with only 27 thousand kays and it had a slight vibration also.. Got the tailshaft balanced and all good.. Great job Sean and very interesting how Ford made those weights.. Nothing better than a smooth car on the freeway...
I feel your pain with this issue. I used hose clamps on my patrol to sort out the same issue. I decided to leave them there and 9 years later they are still there with no problems.
Glad you finally got it sorted mate! Having gone through this twice i know how much it ruins the experience of the car. Fingers crossed i don't end up in round three if i go ahead with the 6 speed swap haha
I used to live in Flinders View, so kinda close to where repco is at. I've replaced the rear shocks and the blade arms as well. I also have a vibration which comes on at 60kph, but I'll try shifting the centre bearing mount side to side first.
Sounds like an easy and cheap way to get rid of vibrations. As per your rear drive shaft, I'd be looking further into getting a new shaft for that side. As you have worked out with your tail shaft vibrations, ANY vibration will end up causing another part to fail or wear our prematurely. Similar to what you found and sorted with your center bearing. Cheers and Thanks for the vid's, they really help sorting our our OWN probs and mechanical work. Teddy.
Its awesome your finally winning with the ba. Just got my ba back on the road and already done a big roadtrip, but now discovered a bad rear end wobble at 100kph lol.
Great work mate had the same problem in my bf and could not find anything about it on UA-cam it think you're vids are going to help someone with the same problem
Got my car back after second attempt, its improved alittle bit but the vibration is still there. Looks like I'll need to get it dynamically balanced or try your trick with the weights.
I’ve just bought a FG ute and came looking on UA-cam for an answer to the odd vibration between 80 and 100. The contact with the road feels smooth so it has made me wonder if I am imagining it. I might get these weights and see if I can have a play. Thanks for the video
Keen to see your brake upgrade. I have 6 pot front brakes from a Mustang, rotors are 380mm as opposed to the 355mm from a falcon gt. I have also 4 pot rear which are a eBay special, 330mm rotors. It's also been engineered. Love the content, keep it up!
I am sticking with the standard sizing in this case - so definitely not as exciting as the route you took! I don't want to go above 18" wheels and what I've got planned should look good and most importantly perform well for a street car.
May apply to the Territory too. We had a brand new SZ MkII Territory fleet car a few years ago that had the vibration you've described since day one. Above 90kph it would just sound like you had a window open in the back. The Ford dealer couldn't fix it then ultimately denied anything was wrong with it. Never got worse in the 4 years we had it but couldn't deny that it wasn't smooth. We had an SZ MkI before it and it was fine!
Not surprised that sorted the niggle. That's what you do for a wheel balance issue, why should it be different with any other spinning mass? I received the shirt on Thursday. Just WOW. Only thing is I'm worried about reactions out in public as it will advertise I'm a car nut, and a Ford one at that. I've never had such a conspicuous sign of my interest before! What do others make of this? Don't regret getting the shirt at all.
Great video, glad you've fixed the tailshaft issues but I kind of think that Ford knew about this, but didn't bother fixing it as the BA program was kind of a last minute rush job to fix the AU... You might need to fix the driveshaft in the future because it does look a little wonky as you said... Also, when do you expect the new ride to debut on the channel, super excited!
Hey thanks for the video, fortunately I have the original weight but might need to swap it to another location or perhaps is not enough weight. I cannot find these weights anywhere online so I contacted my local dealer and waiting for reply. I also noticed on your coupling there are 2 holes drilled of different depths and is exactly the positions where you added the weights. 5:00
I recently bought a Corghi tyre balancer and tyre changer. I have two FG G6es and have had several new sets of tyres over the years. I Always had a vibration around the 95km/hr mark even after new high quality tyres on straight rims. Used to think tailshaft needed balancing. Nope, discount tyre shop balancing is hit and miss. Just because it zeros out in one spot does not mean it is balanced. I balance at 4 spots 90 deg apart, note the weight and mark the spots which have variances and stick weight in the middle of the four markings.I also balance brake disc, they are mostly factory balanced and zero out well, some are out by 10g. Next step are new engine mounts and last are tailshaft balance if vibration still exist. Also you need to install tyres with correct soap placement to get them to seat with minimal radial runout which is another vibration, esp cheap tyres. Don't trust shop balancing, I scratch my head on 50% of the tyres I have rebalanced.My cars drive silky smooth now
I'm a Holden whose going to say this,I ordered a brand new aftermarket tailshaft for my VY SS Commodore about 5 years ago now & in early 2022 I replaced the front doughnut with a $55 AUD doughnut because it was shredded & it gave me a terrible tailshaft vibration. I replaced the centre bearing & even the universal joint which I have recently refitted because the new was eventually shagged,I kept the old one. I also replaced the transmission mount with a manual one after discovering that I fitted an automatic one, they're different in the Chevrolet LS1 V8 powered Commodores to the old Holden 5 litre V8 pre ECOTEC V6 powered Commodores which ran the T5 Borg Warner transmission & the same mount as the automatic transmission. I also replaced the rear doughnut to try & cure some vibration that Imy car was still having,it did have some small splits in it but I kept it as a spare. Last night I decided to jack the rear of the car up & check for runout,thr rear looked good in both first & second gear but the front was throwing a wobbly so I stopped the engine then I checked how much runout it had with a dial gauge. I had 0.4 millimetres of runout so I hoped that the front shaft wasn't bent so I fitted that rear doughnut onto the front of the tailshaft up where the transmission yoke is,I tried replacing the cheapest part first. I ran the engine in first gear with that doughnut fitted & there seemed to be much less of a wobble up on the front section of the tailshaft so I took the car for a test drive early this morning when I found out that vibration in second gear had totally disappeared. So I put it down to a defective doughnut which isn't very old & seems to look alright but it doesn't seem to be quite flat on the bench. I will eventually order a Mackay doughnut which is a more reputable brand than the one which I bought previously,I can buy the Mackay doughnut for $68!AUD online in eBay. As far as your axle shafts go don't worry about them because mine isva bit out of true like that as well !
Hi - A Great result for you It was something you said that reminded me of a prior car that i owned with similar issues Basically it was a WB Statesman, it was stock ( but i found out later not so stock ) it had a vibrating ride at all speeds, i done the easiest and swapped the rims with another car but the result was the same So one day i lent it to a friend as the WB had a tow bar, he mentioned the vibration but when towing it was limo smooth Same happened the next time, he picked up the car , it vibrated, then when using the trailer it was fine, then when he unhitched the trailer it was back So, a few weeks later i volunteered for the next run to the markets and bought veges for everyone and we shared it over 4 families,i bought 2 big sacks of potatoes plus other items and the ride was so-so ok i guess Next time i went to bunnings and bought possibly 20 x 20kg white pebbles for the garden - the car drove nice and smooth RESULT So in explaining to my mechanic he had a look around and i left it with him Diagnosis - was the car had a factory type 1 or type 2 country tow package which included +1 or +2 inch rear lift springs - the diff pinion angle was the issue unladen, add weight and the boot comes down, the 4 link suspension then pushed down on the diff nose and make the pinion angle more straight - thus left max tilt on the rear universal Stock rear springs solved it permanently Regards George
Nice vid mate. Ive had my uni joint and centre bearing done and its not bad, but dont think its as smooth as should be these weights are gunn get a go here.😅😅 cheers
I would personally deem that axle runout unacceptable, especially compared to the other side. The only other observation about your issue is if there’s minor vibrations still, a worn transmission mount or diff cradle bushes can throw out the pinion angle enough to get a vibration out at higher speeds. Good to see a big improvement, all the same.
Glad it was something simple and about that dtive cv shaft thing on rear i havent had issues with my b series but i did with my au Fairlane with irs had to replace them because they did that but got to point it was making noise and that but that car had over 350,000 kms and at time i did alot of burnouts so yeah may not be same case but my opinion is keep an eye on it and possibly get spares or upgrade ones if can glad see ba Getting there
had the same issue in mine for years. it also kept breaking the locating pin in the front of the tail shaft. end result. diff cradle out of alighnment due to shitty welding when it was built. was only picked up after an old mate did an alighnment with an old school string line. moden alighnment machines never picked it up. fords have rattled vibrated and clucked since the beggining of time
Holy fuck! I'll be trying this out! Ever since taking the driveshaft apart to change the unibearing (my Uncle and I did it, and he warned me full well that we weren't gonna get it perfect), the car vibrates badly above 60kph, like how air flutters in your ear when you just crack the window as you are going quick on the freeway...been driving me mad!
Glad I'm not the only one getting this as it really does take away from the enjoyment of the car, had the tailshaft sent away for balancing with not much improvement I guess I'm off to ford to get some weights
@@MotoringBoxTV thanks mate.. unfortunately ford doesn't supply these anymore apparently but I was able to find a plastic clip in my luck box that had long lost its weights and use a screw by adding or removing nuts to get it right haha 90% better now going to lock tight it in place and forget about it
a rumbling sound i would check your tyres i was recently working on a FG falcon the owner wanted to replace driveshaft centre bearing etc ,, i kept telling him it is his tyres ... we replaced drive shaft $800 rumbling still there he was adamant that the tyres were high spec .... so eventually i jacked car up spun the wheel and could see a flat spot showed him ,.. next day he changed out tyres for new ones the tyres and PROBLEM SOLVED no more rumbling , he had on obviously had factory defaults ... tyres are one of the most overlooked things even newish tyres develop faults when manufactured even high qaulity brands
I agree - I previously did a tyre rotation front to back to try and rule them out as an issue. The rumble was heard with the rear wheels off the car, so I think it's just drivetrain noise. When driving it sounded normal, so it's probably just because everything else is so quiet when you've got the car up on jackstands.
Yeah I’ve purchased the Mats Audio and ASL pre amp after your advice/videos. I’ll be waiting for that video repair of the clutch so I can then attempt it myself. 😬😬
The wheel is perfectly smooth - it was more of a vibration coming from behind you, which is how I narrowed it down. Because mine is a manual I could feel it through the gearstick too.
Crazy question, but I just watched your video from six months ago about your car history, and one of your cars rang a bell. Did you use to own the xfalcon forum?
@@MotoringBoxTV haha, the good old days. I think I went on one meet when you had just got the ltd and we heading up Northside somewhere (north lakes maybe) and you caught up with us on the motorway, seeing that ltd come up on the on-ramp was killer, it was soo clean.
Thanks mate, she did go on a few cruises. If I had my time again I would have put the money in to cut the rust out and save her. After I sold it I've never seen it online ever again.
Yeah that driveshaft should definitely be straight... some yob probably used it to tie the car down at some point (on a trailer or whatever) and put a bit much pressure on it..
Got a bit emotional at the result that you've fighting to get for so long, got to the point of screaming YES!! while doing the fingers to off In the distance. No I'm not a nut job, I have an XR6 Turbo that has suffered from the dreaded driveshaft vibrations.
@@MotoringBoxTV Thanks, yes tried that but the parts person says no such parts have existed. Am hoping to find a part number so can then search by that as have hit a dead end otherwise. Thanks for any help.
Hello, have discovered that all weights and hangers are obsolete at Ford. By the way, how do you remove and install the hangers for the weights? Do you just pry behind them with a screwdriver? Or is there a trick? The weights have fallen out of my existing hangers but I don't want to snap them by removing them wrong. Thanks
Ah, they just come off when you pull with your fingers. Hopefully the balancing issue was caused by the missing weight/s, as one of the hangers is completely empty
I get steering wheel vibration AKA shudder sometimes when going 80kms or over. It only happens occasionally but enough to be annoying. When I hit the brakes a couple of times it goes away. I got know idea what is causing it? I don't know if its the break booster rod that slips from time to time or not? I had the booster rod adjusted once, which seemed to fix it for a while, but it still happens every now and then. Its not a wheel alignment issue or centre bearing issue as I have had the replaced as well. Any ideas on what could be causing the steering wheel shudder?
Definitely sounds front brake related to me, but not sure exactly what is going on there. If the pads are dragging it may point to the break booster needing adjustment (or replacement) but better check with an expert.
So where did you feel the vibration? Was in just the steering wheel at 80km/h? Or was it under the car? I’ve been noticing on my ford territory RWD that when increase my driving speed to 90-100km/h my steering wheel rattles, I’ve rebuilt my front suspension by replacing all suspension parts along with my brakes, I’ve replaced all 4 tyres and rims, got my wheel’s balanced twice and still got that rattling steering wheel at 90-100km/h and I’m suspecting my tailshaft might be the culprit
@@MotoringBoxTV that’s what I was wondering as I’m only getting the rattling steering wheel at 90-100km/h and I’ve replaced everything in my front suspension and brakes and my tyres and rims, lifted my territory by an inch and I’m suspecting that my drive shaft could be the cause
@@MotoringBoxTV wow, ive never actually noticed that the fairmont dash is flat! i suppose im more of an in person learner with things, but so good to know thanks!
Regarding the weight placement, you obviously tried Spot A, it was worse so you went Opposite Spot A. I wonder if there's any more little refinements to gain by moving it 1 click left or right of that, and really dialling it in, or are you confident you have it as perfect as you can?
@@theaustralianconundrum it definately had a 2 piece from factory , unless someone had a single piece shaft made for it ? , when they are balanced right & have no existing issues they should be as smooth as silk , the 2 piece with rubber coupling was designed to reduce NVH albeit with a more complex setup that the single piece ended in au.
My BA MKll Fairlane had this tailshaft vibration and after spending silly amounts of money having the tailshaft balanced 3 times OFF the vehicle I discovered that dealerships do it ON the vehicle. takes little to no time and gets rid of the vibration straight away. I'd recommend having this done by a dealership who's experienced at doing it. Apparently, it's a common thing.
I used to work at ford and do the dynamic tailshaft balancing. It's amazing how only the lightest of weights can make the biggest difference.
I'm not sure if I went too heavy handed, but it certainly seems good. I could always try going lighter with each one and see what happens.
Without the actual balancer i think all you can do is go big increments at a time. Tip....be sure to have the weight on the rear suspension and wheel nuts holding the discs on when you're 'balancing'.👍
@@rhyswoodman6781 Hi Rhys how would you put the weight on the rear suspension if your doing this job like i have to at home ie where to place the jacks cheers mate
@@Ken-fisho Jack stands under the rear hubs at the end of the lower control arms behind the backing plate. Cheerss
@@rhyswoodman6781 Thanks for the advice Rhys
Ordered my weights from Ford today. Been chasing the same issue for 12 months, after full tailshaft rebuild, new tyres, rims restored, new rotors and pads, and gearbox mount. It's alot better than it was but hopefully now I can sort it out once and for all 🤙🏻
If that centre bearing is new check that it's not a repco one...I have had a few new in box that were far too soft allowing the shaft to move around! Great to see you overcoming the vibration issues as that can ruin the driving experience!!
super stoked you got it sorted man. i had been chasing a rattle on my BA for months that turned out to be the inside of the cat converter, took ages to diagnose. so i know the feels of a win like that.
Congratulations on the tail shaft fix and thanks for documenting your trials and tribulations along the way. Now the rest of us who enjoy these old vehicles have confidence that we can do it too! I hope that you enjoy your ride to the fullest. 😊
👕Grab a shirt from www.motoringbox.com/shop
I've finally had a win! Hopefully we can now move on and start enjoying the car!
Surely the drivetrain shop that tried to fix it would have known about the weights?
@@bradmurray8573 you'd be surprised... nobody except Ford seemed to know about them.
STRANGE! - We should'nt HAVE TO do any of this (as you'll agree). Congratulations on the win though mate!
@@bradmurray8573 llllllllllll
@@SteveMack Bear in mind that the BA is 20 years old and most have travelled the equivalent of 6 times around the earth if not more. They are just wearing out.
Good grief, what a saga. You must be so relieved and I hope it is still going well. Happy days 😊👌
Congrats on solving the problem Sean. Enjoy the car!
Awesome diagnosis as iv seen those clip on weights get thrown in the bin
I do make a point of marking position of the weights and hangar bearing and position of driveshaft whenever I remove the driveshaft from the vehicle making installation easier and accurate
Any model territory?
Be careful not to diagnose axle issues when the suspension is drooped as the geometry can be weird. Try to get a second set of axle stands and hold the trailing arms close to where they would be on the road.
Falcons also have a vibration issue at 80km/h+ caused by the brake booster. There is a small rod inside the booster that you give a quarter turn and can make a huge difference.
If you’re changing the front brake rotors then throw in some new wheel bearing. Super easy to change and not too expensive.
tyres are one of the most overlooked things that cause weird noises
So glad you managed to sort it - I never fully resolved the buzz in my BA!
I put on some new shocks this week and flushed the clutch fluid! Cars feels much better! Always nice to do some work and feel the benefits!! Keep the content rolling mate!!
Oh wow I've been watching most if your barra related videos for years and never knew you live out my way! I've got an 08 fg turbo I've just rebuilt the motor with some stronger parts after sitting for a few years and back on the road hopefully soon! Thanks for your videos! It definitely helped me a few times with things I wasn't sure about!
Awesome news! Looking forward to see (and hear) you wring it out at a track day.
That little repco looks like a relic from the past!
FG does run the same weights. My oem ones were in a white plastic casing. They’re now redundant. The uni joints in the FG tail shaft are non-replaceable. They’re spiked in place, and the castings have no way to fit a circlip. You can do a dodgy fix, but it would be hard to centre the uni and spike it in place again. So I had a new shaft made, with replaceable units (and CV) and it’s balanced properly (like tailshafts of old were done). It’s as smooth as anything, with no need to run those weights.
Thanks mate, I didn't know you could buy those weights. I've always just sent the shaft away and had it reconditioned and it comes back smooth as silk for around $200.
Glad to see it better!
Really loving the progress Sean! I really wish that there was a place that you could legally test the top speed of the car. But yeah you should do some roll racing for sure, and film how just fast you are going.
Wish I'd known this when I still had my BA XR8 manual, great video Sean.
Seeing you rolling onto the highway past goodna maccas takes me back😅 I got my P’s and was living in Bellbird park and would punch onto that highway every single day to work 🙏🏼 was only here to troubleshoot my BA vibrations but you’ve managed to score my further interests 😅
FWIW: The yellow dot on the diff flange indicates the light side of the axial balance and that should match up with a yellow dot on the tailshaft flange. The assembly should be match marked before anything is removed to allow it all to be put back together and torqued to 72Nm. The centre bearing sometimes have shims fitted and they should also be marked which side and go back to there original spot and the bolts are torqued 36Nm.
Driveline vibrations do my head in soo bad. My WM statesman had it so I did the flexible couplings and had the tailshaft redone (new centre bearing etc) and balanced and it was great.. Got 2014 WN Caprice with only 27 thousand kays and it had a slight vibration also.. Got the tailshaft balanced and all good.. Great job Sean and very interesting how Ford made those weights.. Nothing better than a smooth car on the freeway...
I feel your pain with this issue. I used hose clamps on my patrol to sort out the same issue. I decided to leave them there and 9 years later they are still there with no problems.
Great to see a win mate well done 👍👍
If your replacing rear brakes you can put territory rear calipers and rotors on and get larger vented rear brakes. Fit straight on
Glad you finally got it sorted mate! Having gone through this twice i know how much it ruins the experience of the car. Fingers crossed i don't end up in round three if i go ahead with the 6 speed swap haha
I used to live in Flinders View, so kinda close to where repco is at. I've replaced the rear shocks and the blade arms as well. I also have a vibration which comes on at 60kph, but I'll try shifting the centre bearing mount side to side first.
Nice, I'm glad you didn't have to keep throwing the parts cannon at it
For some one not qualified well done and i am just a musician !!!
Sounds like an easy and cheap way to get rid of vibrations. As per your rear drive shaft, I'd be looking further into getting a new shaft for that side. As you have worked out with your tail shaft vibrations, ANY vibration will end up causing another part to fail or wear our prematurely. Similar to what you found and sorted with your center bearing. Cheers and Thanks for the vid's, they really help sorting our our OWN probs and mechanical work. Teddy.
so glad to hear you got it fixed man! good shit☝️
Lovely video Sean!
I already told you it was your axles mate well done for finding it
Its awesome your finally winning with the ba. Just got my ba back on the road and already done a big roadtrip, but now discovered a bad rear end wobble at 100kph lol.
Hopefully it's just a tyre slightly out of shape from sitting too long?
Great video!
Great outcome Ssean
Well done
Nick Australia
Great work mate had the same problem in my bf and could not find anything about it on UA-cam it think you're vids are going to help someone with the same problem
Yeah, none of the experts I asked seemed to know anything about it. They'll just balance the shaft and then send you on your way.
Glad its sorted Sean, I am sure you are over the moon now. 👍
Hey, have you done, or could you do a video on your in car video/audio setup? I like that auto pan thing you have.
Glad you got it sorted mate.
Got my car back after second attempt, its improved alittle bit but the vibration is still there. Looks like I'll need to get it dynamically balanced or try your trick with the weights.
I’ve just bought a FG ute and came looking on UA-cam for an answer to the odd vibration between 80 and 100. The contact with the road feels smooth so it has made me wonder if I am imagining it. I might get these weights and see if I can have a play. Thanks for the video
Thats excellant you fixed it with grams. My Ba feels like it needs about a kilo of weight to fix mine.I'll give it a go see what happens.
I thought mine was going to need a lot - and that I should have ordered some of the heavier ones. Pretty crazy that it was only 13g total that helped.
Keen to see your brake upgrade. I have 6 pot front brakes from a Mustang, rotors are 380mm as opposed to the 355mm from a falcon gt. I have also 4 pot rear which are a eBay special, 330mm rotors. It's also been engineered.
Love the content, keep it up!
I am sticking with the standard sizing in this case - so definitely not as exciting as the route you took! I don't want to go above 18" wheels and what I've got planned should look good and most importantly perform well for a street car.
@@MotoringBoxTV focus on ducting and shrouding, similar to the radiator, go with ducting.
May apply to the Territory too. We had a brand new SZ MkII Territory fleet car a few years ago that had the vibration you've described since day one. Above 90kph it would just sound like you had a window open in the back. The Ford dealer couldn't fix it then ultimately denied anything was wrong with it. Never got worse in the 4 years we had it but couldn't deny that it wasn't smooth. We had an SZ MkI before it and it was fine!
Watching video to try fix my territory lol
Good on ya ! Love your channel. I watch in New Zealand because I have a Territory.
Not much on UA-cam about Territory's
Not surprised that sorted the niggle.
That's what you do for a wheel balance issue, why should it be different with any other spinning mass?
I received the shirt on Thursday. Just WOW. Only thing is I'm worried about reactions out in public as it will advertise I'm a car nut, and a Ford one at that. I've never had such a conspicuous sign of my interest before! What do others make of this?
Don't regret getting the shirt at all.
Great video, glad you've fixed the tailshaft issues but I kind of think that Ford knew about this, but didn't bother fixing it as the BA program was kind of a last minute rush job to fix the AU...
You might need to fix the driveshaft in the future because it does look a little wonky as you said... Also, when do you expect the new ride to debut on the channel, super excited!
Hey thanks for the video, fortunately I have the original weight but might need to swap it to another location or perhaps is not enough weight. I cannot find these weights anywhere online so I contacted my local dealer and waiting for reply. I also noticed on your coupling there are 2 holes drilled of different depths and is exactly the positions where you added the weights. 5:00
I recently bought a Corghi tyre balancer and tyre changer. I have two FG G6es and have had several new sets of tyres over the years. I Always had a vibration around the 95km/hr mark even after new high quality tyres on straight rims. Used to think tailshaft needed balancing. Nope, discount tyre shop balancing is hit and miss. Just because it zeros out in one spot does not mean it is balanced. I balance at 4 spots 90 deg apart, note the weight and mark the spots which have variances and stick weight in the middle of the four markings.I also balance brake disc, they are mostly factory balanced and zero out well, some are out by 10g. Next step are new engine mounts and last are tailshaft balance if vibration still exist. Also you need to install tyres with correct soap placement to get them to seat with minimal radial runout which is another vibration, esp cheap tyres. Don't trust shop balancing, I scratch my head on 50% of the tyres I have rebalanced.My cars drive silky smooth now
Good vibrations!
I'm a Holden whose going to say this,I ordered a brand new aftermarket tailshaft for my VY SS Commodore about 5 years ago now & in early 2022 I replaced the front doughnut with a $55 AUD doughnut because it was shredded & it gave me a terrible tailshaft vibration.
I replaced the centre bearing & even the universal joint which I have recently refitted because the new was eventually shagged,I kept the old one.
I also replaced the transmission mount with a manual one after discovering that I fitted an automatic one, they're different in the Chevrolet LS1 V8 powered Commodores to the old Holden 5 litre V8 pre ECOTEC V6 powered Commodores which ran the T5 Borg Warner transmission & the same mount as the automatic transmission.
I also replaced the rear doughnut to try & cure some vibration that Imy car was still having,it did have some small splits in it but I kept it as a spare.
Last night I decided to jack the rear of the car up & check for runout,thr rear looked good in both first & second gear but the front was throwing a wobbly so I stopped the engine then I checked how much runout it had with a dial gauge.
I had 0.4 millimetres of runout so I hoped that the front shaft wasn't bent so I fitted that rear doughnut onto the front of the tailshaft up where the transmission yoke is,I tried replacing the cheapest part first.
I ran the engine in first gear with that doughnut fitted & there seemed to be much less of a wobble up on the front section of the tailshaft so I took the car for a test drive early this morning when I found out that vibration in second gear had totally disappeared.
So I put it down to a defective doughnut which isn't very old & seems to look alright but it doesn't seem to be quite flat on the bench.
I will eventually order a Mackay doughnut which is a more reputable brand than the one which I bought previously,I can buy the Mackay doughnut for $68!AUD online in eBay.
As far as your axle shafts go don't worry about them because mine isva bit out of true like that as well !
Hi - A Great result for you
It was something you said that reminded me of a prior car that i owned with similar issues
Basically it was a WB Statesman, it was stock ( but i found out later not so stock )
it had a vibrating ride at all speeds, i done the easiest and swapped the rims with another car but the result was the same
So one day i lent it to a friend as the WB had a tow bar, he mentioned the vibration but when towing it was limo smooth
Same happened the next time, he picked up the car , it vibrated, then when using the trailer it was fine, then when he unhitched the trailer it was back
So, a few weeks later i volunteered for the next run to the markets and bought veges for everyone and we shared it over 4 families,i bought 2 big sacks of potatoes plus other items and the ride was so-so ok i guess
Next time i went to bunnings and bought possibly 20 x 20kg white pebbles for the garden - the car drove nice and smooth
RESULT
So in explaining to my mechanic he had a look around and i left it with him
Diagnosis - was the car had a factory type 1 or type 2 country tow package which included +1 or +2 inch rear lift springs - the diff pinion angle was the issue unladen, add weight and the boot comes down, the 4 link suspension then pushed down on the diff nose and make the pinion angle more straight - thus left max tilt on the rear universal
Stock rear springs solved it permanently
Regards
George
Interesting! I guess with IRS cars the diff position doesn't change, but with live axle I can absolutely see how that would affect it.
Nice vid mate. Ive had my uni joint and centre bearing done and its not bad, but dont think its as smooth as should be these weights are gunn get a go here.😅😅 cheers
Anyone notice where the weights were added at the rear end there was material removed that matched? Was that how the factory balanced it??
That part is interesting yes - I am adding weight to a part where material has been removed.
The thumbnail is literally my face every time i say "nah it just can't just be this simple fix" and it is haha
I would personally deem that axle runout unacceptable, especially compared to the other side.
The only other observation about your issue is if there’s minor vibrations still, a worn transmission mount or diff cradle bushes can throw out the pinion angle enough to get a vibration out at higher speeds. Good to see a big improvement, all the same.
Glad it was something simple and about that dtive cv shaft thing on rear i havent had issues with my b series but i did with my au Fairlane with irs had to replace them because they did that but got to point it was making noise and that but that car had over 350,000 kms and at time i did alot of burnouts so yeah may not be same case but my opinion is keep an eye on it and possibly get spares or upgrade ones if can glad see ba Getting there
Thanks for the vid, I'm starting to have this problem when I rev around 3,000 rpm; then it goes away after that.
If it is the same issue it should be more speed related instead of RPM. Yours might be engine mounts or something different.
Nice work!
had the same issue in mine for years. it also kept breaking the locating pin in the front of the tail shaft. end result. diff cradle out of alighnment due to shitty welding when it was built. was only picked up after an old mate did an alighnment with an old school string line. moden alighnment machines never picked it up.
fords have rattled vibrated and clucked since the beggining of time
Holy fuck! I'll be trying this out! Ever since taking the driveshaft apart to change the unibearing (my Uncle and I did it, and he warned me full well that we weren't gonna get it perfect), the car vibrates badly above 60kph, like how air flutters in your ear when you just crack the window as you are going quick on the freeway...been driving me mad!
Glad I'm not the only one getting this as it really does take away from the enjoyment of the car, had the tailshaft sent away for balancing with not much improvement I guess I'm off to ford to get some weights
Hope you have some luck with it mate.
@@MotoringBoxTV thanks mate.. unfortunately ford doesn't supply these anymore apparently but I was able to find a plastic clip in my luck box that had long lost its weights and use a screw by adding or removing nuts to get it right haha 90% better now going to lock tight it in place and forget about it
two hose clamps (to balance)and centre uni and bearing ,front spider or dunut fixed mine
Nice work!
a rumbling sound i would check your tyres i was recently working on a FG falcon the owner wanted to replace driveshaft centre bearing etc ,, i kept telling him it is his tyres ... we replaced drive shaft $800 rumbling still there he was adamant that the tyres were high spec .... so eventually i jacked car up spun the wheel and could see a flat spot showed him ,.. next day he changed out tyres for new ones the tyres and PROBLEM SOLVED no more rumbling , he had on obviously had factory defaults ... tyres are one of the most overlooked things even newish tyres develop faults when manufactured even high qaulity brands
I agree - I previously did a tyre rotation front to back to try and rule them out as an issue. The rumble was heard with the rear wheels off the car, so I think it's just drivetrain noise. When driving it sounded normal, so it's probably just because everything else is so quiet when you've got the car up on jackstands.
@@MotoringBoxTV thankyou for your reply
So with the reco tailshaft, they don't balance them when they are done ?
The shaft was balanced twice. I suppose this is suggesting there is an imbalance introduced once it has been bolted up, perhaps with the diff flange.
Coincidence those weights went exactly where those balancing drill holes were ?
Interesting isn't it? I didn't notice or pay attention at the time, but the big and small weight match up with the big and small hole haha
Good win finally. Should definately come to roll racing and give the car a good kick in the butt. Also guessing 2nd hand FPV brembo brake upgrade.
Gotta love that squeaky clutch pedal. 🤣🤣
My XR8 6 speed manual squeaks all the time. 🤣🤣
Yes! One of those things I just haven't gotten around to looking at. It's such a pain trying to get your head down there to see what's going on.
Yeah I’ve purchased the Mats Audio and ASL pre amp after your advice/videos.
I’ll be waiting for that video repair of the clutch so I can then attempt it myself. 😬😬
Great to see you got it sorted mate! Nothing worse than that niggling issue that you can't sort out! 🙂
Did this vibration come through the steering wheel? Have a vibration 70-90ks in my BA?
Cheers
Mate l told you this two months ago , about the weights at the cv at diff .
Great info. I have a vibration strictly between 40-50km after all joints and bearings been replaced. Hopefully this is the fix thanks!
2:32 h pplr
I want an XR6 Turbo!
Thanks for solving the mystery
Well done 👌
Awesome stuff! I'm keen to give this a go on my own car. Do you have a link for these? I can't seem to find them on eBay
Not online anywhere - I had to call my local detailer and was surprised to find they still have them!
When you say it’s from the tail shaft do you feel it in your seat or the steering wheel? But thanks for the great advice!
The wheel is perfectly smooth - it was more of a vibration coming from behind you, which is how I narrowed it down. Because mine is a manual I could feel it through the gearstick too.
@@MotoringBoxTV ok, that makes sense, thanks again!
If you have stiff aftermarket engine mounts drive train vibration can be felt threw the steering wheel as well .
Crazy question, but I just watched your video from six months ago about your car history, and one of your cars rang a bell.
Did you use to own the xfalcon forum?
Now that's a name I haven't heard in a very long time...
@@MotoringBoxTV haha, the good old days. I think I went on one meet when you had just got the ltd and we heading up Northside somewhere (north lakes maybe) and you caught up with us on the motorway, seeing that ltd come up on the on-ramp was killer, it was soo clean.
Thanks mate, she did go on a few cruises. If I had my time again I would have put the money in to cut the rust out and save her. After I sold it I've never seen it online ever again.
Yeah that driveshaft should definitely be straight... some yob probably used it to tie the car down at some point (on a trailer or whatever) and put a bit much pressure on it..
Got a bit emotional at the result that you've fighting to get for so long, got to the point of screaming YES!! while doing the fingers to off In the distance.
No I'm not a nut job, I have an XR6 Turbo that has suffered from the dreaded driveshaft vibrations.
Would like to know where you bought the weights tryed ford didn't have them
From Ford....
Hello, really appreciate your content. Any chance you have the part number for these balancing weights? I can't find it anywhere. Thanks!
Called Ford?
@@MotoringBoxTV Thanks, yes tried that but the parts person says no such parts have existed. Am hoping to find a part number so can then search by that as have hit a dead end otherwise. Thanks for any help.
Hello, have discovered that all weights and hangers are obsolete at Ford. By the way, how do you remove and install the hangers for the weights? Do you just pry behind them with a screwdriver? Or is there a trick? The weights have fallen out of my existing hangers but I don't want to snap them by removing them wrong. Thanks
Ah, they just come off when you pull with your fingers. Hopefully the balancing issue was caused by the missing weight/s, as one of the hangers is completely empty
Nothing like success!!!!~
I get steering wheel vibration AKA shudder sometimes when going 80kms or over. It only happens occasionally but enough to be annoying. When I hit the brakes a couple of times it goes away. I got know idea what is causing it? I don't know if its the break booster rod that slips from time to time or not? I had the booster rod adjusted once, which seemed to fix it for a while, but it still happens every now and then. Its not a wheel alignment issue or centre bearing issue as I have had the replaced as well. Any ideas on what could be causing the steering wheel shudder?
Definitely sounds front brake related to me, but not sure exactly what is going on there. If the pads are dragging it may point to the break booster needing adjustment (or replacement) but better check with an expert.
@@MotoringBoxTV Yeh I was thinking of replacing the entire Vacuum Break Booster but I cant find an off the shelf version to fit the BA Falcon.
So where did you feel the vibration? Was in just the steering wheel at 80km/h? Or was it under the car?
I’ve been noticing on my ford territory RWD that when increase my driving speed to 90-100km/h my steering wheel rattles, I’ve rebuilt my front suspension by replacing all suspension parts along with my brakes, I’ve replaced all 4 tyres and rims, got my wheel’s balanced twice and still got that rattling steering wheel at 90-100km/h and I’m suspecting my tailshaft might be the culprit
It was the whole car rumbling, not really through the wheel unfortunately.
@@MotoringBoxTV that’s what I was wondering as I’m only getting the rattling steering wheel at 90-100km/h and I’ve replaced everything in my front suspension and brakes and my tyres and rims, lifted my territory by an inch and I’m suspecting that my drive shaft could be the cause
im a bit late... but i wish i could get my aus dash mat that perfect in place
I think the Fairmont ones sit quite nicely because the top of the dash is quite flat. Just has a few velcro tabs running along the front edge.
@@MotoringBoxTV wow, ive never actually noticed that the fairmont dash is flat! i suppose im more of an in person learner with things, but so good to know thanks!
Regarding the weight placement, you obviously tried Spot A, it was worse so you went Opposite Spot A.
I wonder if there's any more little refinements to gain by moving it 1 click left or right of that, and really dialling it in, or are you confident you have it as perfect as you can?
It's pretty good - I don't have any vibration that I can feel. But if you had more time I'm sure it could be refined further!
Near most I have seen are 10g or less needed, when you get the right spot…
@@theaustralianconundrum it definately had a 2 piece from factory , unless someone had a single piece shaft made for it ? , when they are balanced right & have no existing issues they should be as smooth as silk , the 2 piece with rubber coupling was designed to reduce NVH albeit with a more complex setup that the single piece ended in au.
BARRA POWER SON 👌
Gidday mate just realised your in Ipswich I'm at karrabin I'd like to catch up for a chat about my ba falcon please get back to me
I had my drive shaft Ballance as one pese no vibrashen
What a pain in the @rse...... I've got a BA 5.4L Fairlane.,....... had it 10 years never an issue with vibration.....
Amazingly my fartmounts tailshart is smooth all the way to over 200kmph+ on the dyno. Had another Ford that always wobbled some shafts are just shit
Working on a turbo build for it the mighty intech must be worshipped
Jeez...maybe i better not chuck those weights in the bin from now on ...😨
Consider getting your wheel bearings and get your tyres balanced. It might just be the tyres.
I didn't have any tyres on during testing, plus I had previously done a front -> back tyre rotation to rule them out.
@@MotoringBoxTV woops I mean check your wheel bearings. 😳 Didn't read right
So if you want to buy a Falcon get an AU not a BA?
FG
The BA is the best model Ford have produced with the steel Barra engine.
Finally
it'll save your diff not shaking lol