Weathering Kill Team 40k Scenery - Promethium Pipes - Rust
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- Опубліковано 13 сер 2018
- Painting the Games Workshop Promethium Relay Pipes with a technique I put together a few years ago to quickly and effectively create a really rusty finish. Ideal for Kill Team, SWA or 40k
- Навчання та стиль
This is the most realistic-looking rust effect I have ever seen. Incredible.
I just love the result and the simplicity in your technique. Thanks for sharing :)
Really great video! Was really glad to see your video pop up in my subscriptions. Always professionally presented with tonnes of useful information
Looking forward to another. You do a great job teaching others the skills needed to improve the look of their models.
What an excellent video Jon. The narration was spot on, clear and concise. I have to give this technique a try. Keep up the great work!
Welcome back, brilliant and clear technique
Loved it. Interesting to see what modelers have done for years done with miniature paints and getting same result. Nice work!
Absolutely incredible work! Thank you for the inspiration. 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks for a great tutorial.
Really good detail and explanation of what you're doing.
And a few of your comments had me chuckling
Absolutely stunning, you've given me my next project!
Jeez these things look AMAZING. Great tutorial, will definitely have to revisit this later.
Absolutely brilliant work
Excellent video, well explained and clearly shown! I use this technique all the time (taken from your video, of course), works especially well on tank mufflers. Like your video with the decal cote as well. Keep up the great work!
Good to see you back Jon. Great technique mate - like it!😎👍🏻
Absolutely amazing weathering.
This is the best technique i've ever seen. Totally gotten me into weathering. Now watched all the humbrol videos, and a bunch of your stuff. This is such high quality video production and can be watched over and over. Really love your work.
This has inspired me to do an imperial guard tank army in this colour scheme!!! :D
Peeling glue from your hands was one of the perks of doing woodwork at school... great tutorial/s!!
Thanks for the awesome video. That's a very nice rusty/weathered finish, with very clear instructions. :)
Awesome technique! And also very well explained!! Thank you so much.
Hey Jon hope your well and it's good to hear from you. I hope little man's doing well too!
That's the best technique by fare for this affect it gives a much more realistic look to rust thank you for sharing it once again always a pleasure watching your vids mate, don't leave it to long 😎👍
Superb Jon, my model railway has benefited from your tuition over the years. The pipes in this video look fantastic I will definitely use this technique on Industrial areas of my layout.
Hands down the best rust effect I have seen.
That is fantastic, great work and great ideas
Man, I have seen several modelers videos, and you are definitely one of the best if not the best. Please keep sharing your working with us!!!
High praise indeed, I will always continue but not at the speed of other youtubers
Fantastic weathering tutorial, well done.
Quality not quantity on videos. And yours are quality!!!!
This is brilliant! Easily the best rust effects I've seen to date. (You spend enough time chipping rust in real life, and suddenly virtually none of the painted rust techniques look convincing anymore. This one is the exception!)
Thanks I appreciate your feedback and I'm glad you enjoyed the video
wow that is just amazing like kamakazie said realistic rust keep up the great work
this looks insane. I ordered the products to give it a try ! thx mate
That's an awesome technique. Very realistic.
I do like a bit of rust! Happy new year too 😀
That's an impressive technique you have come up with there, I have a bunch of Sector Mechanicus kits sitting as I haven't been able to make my mind up on what colour scheme to use on them. I have only really used oil based paints for weathering and washes (the MIG 502 Abteilung oils)so I shall have to be getting myself some new paints etc Thanks for sharing this technique.
This technique is also great for any Death Guard vehicles. Great tutorial.
Great video, hope to see more very soon.
Thanks for sharing your techniques! Subscribed.
This is an incredible technique.
Really nice! Thank you for sharing!
Excellent technique 👍🏻
Really nice tutorial M8! I love it when I come across other UA-camrs with quality content and this was a really interesting way of conveying rust on a model. I think I'm going to use this technique on the base for the Rommel Bust that I'm working on right now for an upcoming video. I, of course, will give credit where it is due and will link your channel in my video. Awesome stuff and I just subbed!
Awsome !!! thanks alot for taking the time to teach us.
Really nice job on these
Impressive job!
Stunning as always! I've seen you use this technique before, but I've never been able to replicate it. I guess now's a good time to revisit it.
SWISH message me from my page on Facebook if you get issues I'd be more than happy to help
Great video like always ..... I wished there would be more like that
Genuinely incredible, going to go out and get me some of the tools to do this asap :)
Welcome back! I hope that you will be posting more videos soon!!! :)
I have to agree with everyone else here. This is the most immaculate rust effect I've ever seen. Excellent! Thank you fot this.
A very convincing effect. I'll definitely try this myself 👍 You might not be a prolific UA-cam content creator, but quality will always trump quantity 😀
Now THIS i need to try. Lovely.
Wonderful technique!
Great Technique, I'll keep this in my "vast, extensive, 'How To Do It' ( note echo sound added here) library room" 😁
Seriously: great, good, fun looking method.👍👍👍
Can't wait to try it out on my killteam scenery!
Great technique
Welcome back!
Great Vid!
Subscribed
Truly impressive m8. Thoroughly enjoyed that.
Great effect 👍🏻
Excellent!
dude these look great! i think i will give this a go, just need to find something rusty to paint!
Wau...All this awe and admire for your work throuthou the video just to realize you are a T'au player in the end...
Just kidding, great job, mate!
Effing brilliant.
Glorious
Great job! ;)
brilliant
Great !!!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
wow job!
Badass!
Keep it up!
I’ve been watching your videos quite a bit- and I love them! Question: what airbrush operating pressures are you using generally?
Good to see you back Jon, what is with the tiger tank? :)
Great video I was wondering if you have tried the salt technique? Very similar but I think a bit easier than dealing with Maskal.
What ratio do you mix thinner and Matt cote? Thank you
So you paint the clear stuff and then the powder sticks to it? Edit, I get it now. Cool vid
Great video. Thank you. My only request would be to see if there is a way to increase the volume of the video as it seemed quite low. Aside from that, I look forward to many more videos from you.
Hi and thanks. The volume is something of a problem for me, my levels sound good in my headphones then bad for everyone else so I will fix this moving forward and get it right in future videos
Your videos are outstanding, hands down. I do have two questions, however:
1) Did you only use the black primer straight, or did you use gesso or any kind of medium first?
2) What is the ratio you used for the enamel thinner/matte medium varnish? Judging by how liquid it looks, it appears to be maybe like a 3:1 (thinners to medium).
You shoul make more videos się!
Thank you - excellent tutorial! Not seen it done exactly that way before and it has clear advantages. Can I just check (possible stupid question coming!) You explained why it needs to be enamel thinner - does it have to also be enamel varnish (for the same reason?) ?
RobertSE6 Yeah that's the key to reactivation, the paint is incompatible with the thinner so that stays put while the pigments move about
Wow great video!!!
There is any difference betwin the matt cote and the humbrol matt varnish?
Good question...I'm not sure, I only ever used that stuff in a rattle can and it was notorious for fogging up and leaving white frost. I would avoid the risk and get Matt cote or a similar enamel varnish just to be safe
Awesome! What would be the GW or VGC equivilent of that grey pipe base paint do you think?
I think pallid wych flesh would be a good place to start maybe with a touch of stone or flesh to warm it up just a little bit.
will white spirits work for the streaking?
Awesome effect. Shame the pipe kit is no longer available :(
I had to check after you wrote that comment I can't believe they discontinued such a handy set of terrain...although they're really chucking out some great stuff in it's place
Good to see you back, great video.
Can I ask, is there any particular reason why you want the varnished weathering powders softer as opposed to being left over night? If you were to leave them for a period before continuing onto the next step would there be any consequences?
Hi and thanks. I wish I'd spent a little longer explaining a few things about the way the Matt cote behaves and how it needs to be enamel varnish but alas it's a bit late now. After leaving the Matt cote for a day I found it really hardens up and it won't streak as freely and strong in colour as it does on this video. When it's soft the thinner digs right in and it works well but when it hardens it doesn't want to give up those pigments!
ScaleModelMedic that would make sense. Thanks for the reply
nick lucas any time mate happy modelling
Great technique. How would you go about doing this with on areas with decals
I've never done this on decals before I would expect having large decals over the area being chipped would rule this technique out. It would certainly pose an interesting challenge.
For the white topcoat, did you use enamel or acrylic paint?
The top coat is acrylic
I saw this on the humbrol UA-cam channel but they didn't use pigment powders they use the brown paint what was Rusty color the enamel was sprayed on then they chipped it with the masking material and they use the thinner to activate the paint and drag it down but come out beautiful take care of you and your family hopefully you'll have another great show again
KONAMAN Studio Go back to that video and watch it again, listen to the voice and look at the ring the guy wears then come back to this video and do the same :)
ScaleModelMedic I didn't say it was saying you're using pastels can make your effect but the enamel clear coat you're using it's just like they now all they use but I like your affect better because the variance of color you have more range of color than the other one but you can say it's the same difference I like your work keep it going I guess it's a little bit more acceptable over there to be a modeler and gamer compared to here cuz I used to take my gaming Minnie's tomorrow shows and I rang them in the eighties and nineties a lot different now thank you for producing videos take care of your family and yourself
Sorry I was half asleep when I wrote that first reply what I was alluding to is that the guy in the humbrol video is actually me lol
Which video is it? Would quite like to watch. Many thanks
Humbrol has a video from 2013 about different uses of Maskol that shows exactly this technique. Good stuff though.
Yeah I know..check out the guys hands, and wedding ring ;)
ScaleModelMedic OH SNAP! :) testing this technique today as part of my astra militarum / inquisition army project today btw hehe
Hey dude. Been a while since you uploaded, hope everything is ok!
Thanks for this comment, I am alive and well personally but everyone has their own struggles and for me youtube had to take a back seat to life. I am now filming again and have some stuff in the pipeline for the first time in years :)
Brilliant. What ratio is the matt coat to thinners? 1:1?
Probably a bit heavier on the thinner, matt cote is thick stuff. I just mix by eye til it runs like diluted paint.
@@ScaleModelMedic So like with acrylics and acrylics thinners to the consistency of milk? Lovely, milky milky.
@@DoktorTechnometer yeah kinda, you want it to have enough resin to hold those powders but be thin enough to soak into them too so when you go back in that stuff streaks nice. Having some of the black undercoat come through boosts the Contrast but you don't wanna burn through to plastic
can the top coat (the grey in this case) be enamel as well??
Hi, not really. When the enamel thinner goes on to reactivate the weathering powder/varnish coat it would reactive the top coat of paint too, so you'd more likely end up with a real mess on your hands
Hey quick question, how come the liquid mask didnt pull off the pigments underneath with it?
This I can only attribute to a combination of things - the strength of the bond between the Matt cote and the primer firstly. Ump primer is very good and Matt cote is strong, though not a particularly good Matt varnish as it can powder up and leave marks. Maskol is relatively weak and designed to not pull the paint off, plus it was quite fresh. I've never had maskol pull pigments off in this fashion. I expect if you were very sparing with the varnish and heavy on the powder it would have a weak bond and lift but as you see in the video I ripped that stuff off without a thought that the pigments would come away.
Can you apply the paint with a brush? Or better to spray? Can it also be acrylic paint?
Hi, there's a bit of chemistry involved here so I need to make sure I'm very specific. The rust colour can't be acrylic paint, it needs to be strong pigmented enamel hence why I use weathering powder in enamel varnish. This is what allows the rust colour to run when the thinner is added. Because this layer is sealed in really well by the varnish and I am using a manual chipping method I. E not chipping fluid, you could use a paintbrush to apply the second layer of colour yes. This actually NEEDS to be acrylic to prevent it interacting with the thinner that makes the rust colour run.
@@ScaleModelMedic Ok I think I have a grasp on the concept. I should’ve wrote what I asked a bit better as I I wanted to know if the paint on the second layer of colour could be acrylic. Which you’ve stated here that it has to be. Ok. I’m going to try this out when I get the stuff needed. I’m excited about trying out oils and pigments for weathering to add to general acrylic paint jobs.
Jon, the matt coat and the thinner, in the first part, are acrilics ?
fidinboca No they must be enamel. This lets the enamel thinner eat into the pigments
Yes! I will be premature in my question, after see the complete video I understand. Thanks so much Jon, and sorry for my bad english.
fidinboca you're doing great with your English !
OH NO...a dirty tau player lol, but yeah dude very nice tutorial and i do something very similar but paint the streaks on so i shall be lootin this ( as the orks say )
Sanguine Studio Lol only once, they got mauled. I already made the switch to chaos where I belong
whell like it yes me to get more i go to hard whare and get more pip or to naber if had some broken stuff you never know grreat rust dirty pips see more when you post
Also, you need to name this technique! :)
Zedpower yes I need to think of something suitably pretentious and confusing!! All modelling techniques get this treatment
7:16
The realism you've gotten makes me suspect you've worked in a foundry, smelter or some kind of heavy industry where you'd be around these pipes. All that's missing is cigarette butts, empty yellow demarkation spray cans and a couple of worn out workman's gloves and this would fit in at the copper smelter I spent my 20's working at.
Thanks but no I'm an office boy 😂 that said, being from the black country i grew up in an area interspersed with Industrial sites so saw a lot through the years