Asum keep it up I like the idea with the box on back .I like to be era correct but at the time of war you improvise. I have not build model's in 30 years nice to know it's still alive thanks for the detailed video.
MrD53 I'm coming back into the hobby after a long absence and I find your style of video most helpful with everything explained and more importantly clearly subtitled. Your approach is well argued and bourne out by your truly excellent results. Thank you for your interest and obvious passion you are a great asset to the hobby.
You read my mind at the exact moment you stated you did not coat before going to oils! Wow! I was literally thinking, "Did he forget to mention top coats before oil?" And then you stated how you did not do that. You are one of my top model builders i reference. Thanks!
Gawd, that is a BEAUTIFUL, BEAUTIFUL tank. You've been an inspiration so after far too many years, I took it up once again. Unfortunately, after an investment of nearly two thousand dollars in tools and models, I found out the hard way that because of my Parkinsons (which greatly effects the control of my extremities I can't do it anymore.
Reinforced a lot of what I do, learned something new - what more could you ask from a modelling tutorial video - Thanks for taking the time to make, edit and post this. Best from NZ.
Great tutorial.Tools is issued per vehicle in bins that we call "tote bins" I have no idea what the rest of the world would call it however.These tool sets is bought from factories other than those that produce the vehicles and then packed into these sets.After being packed they are shipped separately from the vehicles.Things such as spade blades, axe heads etc is painted the base color of a vehicle but the cutting and working edges will be left metal.Tow cables is usually protected from corrosion and wear with a heavy packing grease.The muzzle brakes become black on the inner rear vanes due to heat and unburned propellant from the rounds being fired.We scrub it off as best we can and some usually remain but for the greater part of it the paint on these surfaces suffer terribly.Most scratches and dings is caused by everyday use and maintenance.Just a few observations that I thought a person who is obviously a master at his craft such as you may be able to use.
Like a lot of peeps, just coming back to the hobby after many years. It has changed so much and there are a lot of new helpful products out there. Thank you very much for the excellent descriptions of your process. The step by step guide you use is just brilliant. Can I make one observation. When you were doing the wheels you added different pigments because you want a variation of colour. As a guy who has worked on a lot of modern equivalent, I wouldn’t be too fussed as after 10 minutes of driving the wheels act like a mixer and it becomes one colour! Other than that the grass effects in the tracks the mix of wet oil in the dry mud is very very authentic! Look forward to watching everything you have !
Amazing job. Thank you for taking the time to create these videos. Not only is your model building talent exceptional but your video creation technique is as well. The close ups, steady camera, music and music volume, the multi-language captioning, and the chapter view! Fantastic, great work all the way around. Cheers!
The end of the gun barrel on German tanks should have no smoke Residue they had smokeless gunpowder .I think its something that model makers have went crazy on .but its all about having a good time we must never forget that .your work is getting very good keep up the excellent work on the videos.
Everyone has been using smokeless gun powder since the 1880s. There is still soot and cleaning oil residue that blacken the end of the gun barrel around the muzzle. I've got original photos that show that.
I would love to see just one German one this is been a very big topic for many years .I have a very large collection of original pictures and books and I have never seen any with any Smoke Residue at all .please if you can share some really good pictures of real smoke Residue I would pay for them .
This will be a very helpful guide to beginners and experienced modellers alike, it shows that these weathering techniques that can appear to be too difficult can be done with a bit of practice. Also the more experienced modellers will benefit from seeing different approaches than what they usually do. Overlall great work Evan I'll be coming back to this guide like the last one from time to time. Thanks!
Great vid and clear and informative. It just goes to show that you don,t have to spend fortune on loads of different products to get the impressive results you have achieved.Brilliant build and thank you.
Evan, still top of the charts with weathering tutorials!! Is it just me or am i the only one who can watch the capillary action of oil paints run into the details of a tank for hours?? Lol, top notch video as always and glad to see no matter how long you've been in the hobby theres always room for something new to try. Keep up the great work bud! P.S. Hope you're kicking universitys' ass!! Cheers!
Thank you Brad! It has been a little while since I've seen you around, but I'm glad to hear from you! I've been doing well in university, and enjoying it too :)
Haha yea, I've taken quite the hiatus from creating videos and actively participating in youtube and the communities goings on in general. I do intend to get back in the game shortly as the itch has come back. Glad to hear everything is going well at university! if you'd like send me your email address through DM and we can catch up a little.
Video is great, full of excellent techniques. Btw, for those who find the commentary a bit rushed and garbled I suggest playback at 0.75 speed; it sounds perfect!!
wow… I'm new to this and it almost looks like you're ruining the tank by putting the grass and mud and everything on it, it looks like junk all over like you're ruining it… It's perfect. You are a master and I'm humbled by the skill you have to make a tank model look like it's really been road to hell and back and looks real. That's why I started my comment the way I did I'm totally new to this type of skill. Magnificent. I tried to whether my tank but I was too scared LOL… Well with help from videos like this I may get braver the idea is to screw it up after all it went to hell and back… Trust me I'm aware of the skill involved your amazing and I doubt I'll ever achieve anything like what you've done. Cheers mate big thumbs up from me
Thank you so much for this video. I have learned much! I’m getting back into model building after some 40 years away from it. I’ve been focusing on WW2 planes and have done 5 builds since December. The techniques you’ve shown here help me apply subtle weathering to my planes, likewise, using oil paint. Thanks once again. Stay safe.
Awesome job. I literally just got into model tanks. The stug happened to be my first model ever! I’m at the painting stage now. And wow this video is going to help me enormously! I know it’s an old video but I’m so happy I found you haha.
You did an amazing job with that STUG! Great video, great production, great everything! I am really proud that you used the masks too! As I've said before - you have this in you. You should evolve and pretty soon everybody will be behind you. In UA-cam I know only one other unprofessional modeler that can deliver that kind of an armor model and that is Carlos. Everybody else is either making a living out of it, or they should follow you channel. School time! Thank you!
Extremely useful for me as I'm weathering a StuG at the moment. Thanks a lot for sharing your expertise! You're actually getting even better and better, modelling and video wise. Thumbs up, buddy!
Awesome work man! I'll be trying out some of technics on the T34 I'm working on now. I have some input regarding the muzzle. The main reason the muzzle is blacked is from firing. Yes heat generated from firing plays a role but it's mostly due to powder residue. The propellant used was not particularly clean burning and so significant residue is deposited at and around the muzzle. And since this residue is fairly abrasive repeatedly cleaning it off eventually removes the paint and even the primer. Also it tends to have a more gray/black appearance rather than straight black. Anyway love the videos and can't wait for the next one.
It's not soot, it is the exposed barrel primer exposed from camouflage paint being burned off by the heat of firing. The heat resistant barrel primer was a dark grey semi gloss lacquer.
Thank you! I do gundams occasionally too, and maybe I'll do a long weathering video like this featuring one sometime this year. I think that would be cool :)
Another great video thank you, they're always interesting! I'm not up to this stage yet but hope to have a go soon. I have a couple of builds in progress. My first since I was a child. I have a comment for you to consider!- the welding process of attaching the Russian stowage bin would have generated a lot of heat (localised) which in turn would burn off and scorch the paint near the welds. Just a thought.
That is true! I should have put some black pigment around the welds to emphasize them and add that scorching effect. I may go back and add that, thank you! Good luck on your builds :)
Great video. The only critique/complaint/suggestion, what have you, is that the camouflage should have been quite a bit darker. After all, the whole idea of camouflage is to break up the “pattern”/outline/shape of the object at distance. If you can barely see it up close, it serves no purpose. But..... awesome idea layering the camouflage so that it is weathered/chipped differently from the base. Thanks for sharing your tips. 👍👍
at the 10 minute mark you ask a question of its soot or paint flaking away; in this case it would be both because when a gun fires soot always ejects from the barrel and since the camouflage coat isn't as tough as the primer, the heat and cleaning of the barrel inside and out would result in a black muzzle brake and discolouration.
Thank you for this really cool and informative video! The chipping effects look really good (I gotta try the hairspray technique) and I love the accumulation of mud and grass on the lower hull, chassis and running gear.
Inspiring work buddy....inspiring, informative and educational as always! I definitely need to invest in a few StuG's....damn you! 😉😄😂 Then again, no stash is complete without a StuG....or several! Keep them videos coming! 👍👌👏
Another excellent video @panzermeister36. I have just moved on from color modulation to attempting a dot filter. It is not as simple as it appears. The drying time of the oils on the model is crucial so you don't get what essentially mounts to a blended wash. I am looking into the Wilder Oils as we speak. Keep up the great content!
Hey Winston! Yes, it's very important to let the oils dry a little bit. Usually I'd wait maybe 15 mins with artist's oils (give or take, I might have said something along those lines in the video) before blending. With the Wilder oils I just do it basically right away, so like 3 mins. They dry considerably quicker, but you still have a few hours of working time with them.
Thank you! And yes, I have lots of StuG IIIs... they look very cool to me, and there were tons and tons of them made, so lots of options for weathering and painting.
Great video. Information overload. Question if I wanted to show bare steel, would I do the hair spay over the steel color then prime and chip? Also one small detail to share with your viewers. Cables and tools that were camouflage painted in place, would be moved for use and not always placed back in line with the original paint lines. So by painting camo lines over cables and tool out of alignment can add one more realistic detail. Thank you for the video, looking forward to part 3.
Hello! Yes, if you wanted some bare steel you could do two approaches. 1. Apply steel colour, then hairspray, then primer colour. Then complete chipping. Then, varnish to protect that work. Next, apply another coat or two of hairspray over the red color (with steel chips), and then apply the top camo colour. Then chip a second time. 2. Apply steel colour, then hairspray, then primer colour, then hairspray again, and then top camouflage colour. Then chip it. Both methods are the same, just the second has you only do chipping once, while the first option broke it into two stages of chipping. You'll find with the second method that, if you're very gentle, you can get chips through the top camo colour that show only red primer, and then if you chip a little harder, you can get a little steel showing through the primer. But it's easy to be a little too rough and make all the chips go right to steel...which I why the first method is a little more safe; it makes it so that only steel shows through the final layer of chipping if you chip the camo colour over areas of the primer where you already chipped the primer to steel. I hope that makes sense...I'm bad at explaining sometimes :) I will do a video on this eventually...
Thank you for your quick reply. Your explanation is very clear, and thanks for adding the second method. My weathering skills are at the novice level, so I will try the two step version first and work up to the second method as my skills increase. Keep the videos coming. Thanks again, and Happy Holidays to you and yours.
A few remarks from a historical point of view : - I find the chipping rather heavy for a paint layer that is maximum about 1 year old. That paint was factory applied so I would expect some quality and resistance to chipping. - if the vehicle dates from before 1942 the first paint layer you find underneath won't be the red brown primer but panzer grey. As this was the standard colour for German military vehicles until about mid 1942, when this was changed to dark yellow. First line combat vehicles were repainted, other vehicles sometimes kept their grey paint. Also, the first responsability of a tank crew is to keep their vehicle clean and in running order. Heavy weathering ? Only during or immediately after combat.
hey dude dont know if you will respond since its been 5 years. appreciate this video you explain everything so well! definitely going to try most of the stuff you have shown here
Great video honestly!! I hope you do this type of video with Tiger or Panther or any big and a lot of plates tank with a 3 tone camo . I think you would do it really good and realistic. Keep up the good work!!! :D
panzermeister another lovely video thank you very much. as for the gloss coat it's one of those that ymmv i guess because so far i haven't been able to find a way past the tidemarks caused by the thinners and or product over tamiya acrylics, maybe it's wilder's oils and thinner which i have no access (w&n and all those artist stuff is what i am using) but the day i figure out how will be the day i'll quit using varnishes that's for sure. anyway thanks again, hope you'll continue with these videos.
I know exactly what you mean. That's usually caused by a few things. Either the Tamiya paint isn't fully dry or the thinner is too strong....those are most likely. If you're using W&N thinners (W&N oils are awesome though), maybe try using a brush-cleaning solvent instead for the thinner. It shouldn't attack the acrylics, but do a test just to be sure. I that's what I used it the past when I was doing W&N oils. I used a Gotrick brand brush cleaning solvent from my local art store.
Fantastic - apart from the blackened muzzle brake. A subtle, blistered paint effect would be more appropriate, maybe? Also, I think the top surfaces would have far more muddy boot marks and dust, which is often forgotten on models. Overall effect is superb though!
Started using hairspray on some things it's nice chips bit get some issues if going back over with a brush detail painting it activates the hairspray lol pro's n cons to it! I'm building RFMs early full interior stug G it's falling together beautifully! Started to notice alot of differences in the engine bay to miniarts so stopped n dropped tool's to figure out what's going on here! Took a day of researching the books to find EARLY stug interiors and lates what I have found is RFM have accurately as I expected gotnthe early engine bay fans and radiators perfectly there exactly the same as what is in the ausf B to f8 in my books couldn't find an ausf A but then we come to later ausf Gs and that's what miniare have depicted with box radiators and latches and tensioners on fan belts with the split V in middle of fan wall amd fuel spout is the later bowl shape! Quite amazing how these are turning out to be very very different builds! Shame the outsides the same! But would be great if a Dragon ausf B upper Hull fitted on RFMs for another build! I'll be having all mine on miniarts gantries so it will show the differences in that respect but not Started the fighting compartment just yet so will see what's different if anything in here next!
Great Job as always. Can you give us some pointers on adding cammo nets and stowage and also could you discuss your method of assembling and putting on the tracks to get the proper tension and sag. Thank you!
Thank you! I'll see what I can do about camo nets and stowage. Stowage is an especially good subject to cover! As for tracks, I've got a few videos already on assembling them: ua-cam.com/video/K3y6oQ2S-Hg/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/Kf5TBEN_Eks/v-deo.html
![[Paint, Weathering and Winter Camo] Sturmgeschütz (StuG) III Ausf.B (Tamiya)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aGSpM4NThnk/mqdefault.jpg)
did you gloss coat before the pinwash?
just kidding nice vid man
this is the most pathetic fake ad i have ever seen they arent even trying anymore
Lol yep....got rid of that. It was pretty weak. Also, you get your comment pinned, it made me smile :D
@@powergym4925 what
@@Kudacior 19:55 🦄🦄🦄
Asum keep it up I like the idea with the box on back .I like to be era correct but at the time of war you improvise. I have not build model's in 30 years nice to know it's still alive thanks for the detailed video.
MrD53
I'm coming back into the hobby after a long absence and I find your style of video most helpful with everything explained and more importantly clearly subtitled. Your approach is well argued and bourne out by your truly excellent results. Thank you for your interest and obvious passion you are a great asset to the hobby.
So appreciate your talent! As an old guy,.... I haven't been this inspired since reading Shep Paine's books, many years ago.
+tom sheppard thank you very much
One of the best weathering videos on UA-cam.
You read my mind at the exact moment you stated you did not coat before going to oils! Wow! I was literally thinking, "Did he forget to mention top coats before oil?" And then you stated how you did not do that. You are one of my top model builders i reference. Thanks!
Gawd, that is a BEAUTIFUL, BEAUTIFUL tank. You've been an inspiration so after far too many years, I took it up once again. Unfortunately, after an investment of nearly two thousand dollars in tools and models, I found out the hard way that because of my Parkinsons (which greatly effects the control of my extremities I can't do it anymore.
Love your comprehensive tutorials ! The methodology of weathering is often overlooked but you have it down to a T. Nice one
James
Thank you James!
Thanks again. I am leaps and bounds ahead.
Reinforced a lot of what I do, learned something new - what more could you ask from a modelling tutorial video - Thanks for taking the time to make, edit and post this.
Best from NZ.
Outstanding work.
every day is a school day ....brilliant
I also use that brand hair spray when I go out on weekends to pick up the babes!
🚲 Do you tell 'em you build models ?
I can't believe how viberent you manage to make the colours.
I'm in awe!
Thanks for posting such great tutorials, I'm watching a few before I start my first tank build.
How did it go?
Great tutorial.Tools is issued per vehicle in bins that we call "tote bins" I have no idea what the rest of the world would call it however.These tool sets is bought from factories other than those that produce the vehicles and then packed into these sets.After being packed they are shipped separately from the vehicles.Things such as spade blades, axe heads etc is painted the base color of a vehicle but the cutting and working edges will be left metal.Tow cables is usually protected from corrosion and wear with a heavy packing grease.The muzzle brakes become black on the inner rear vanes due to heat and unburned propellant from the rounds being fired.We scrub it off as best we can and some usually remain but for the greater part of it the paint on these surfaces suffer terribly.Most scratches and dings is caused by everyday use and maintenance.Just a few observations that I thought a person who is obviously a master at his craft such as you may be able to use.
Like a lot of peeps, just coming back to the hobby after many years. It has changed so much and there are a lot of new helpful products out there. Thank you very much for the excellent descriptions of your process. The step by step guide you use is just brilliant. Can I make one observation. When you were doing the wheels you added different pigments because you want a variation of colour. As a guy who has worked on a lot of modern equivalent, I wouldn’t be too fussed as after 10 minutes of driving the wheels act like a mixer and it becomes one colour! Other than that the grass effects in the tracks the mix of wet oil in the dry mud is very very authentic! Look forward to watching everything you have !
Amazing job. Thank you for taking the time to create these videos. Not only is your model building talent exceptional but your video creation technique is as well. The close ups, steady camera, music and music volume, the multi-language captioning, and the chapter view! Fantastic, great work all the way around. Cheers!
I’ve been modeling for about 1 and a half year and this video helped so much you have so much talent and thank you keep up the good work
The end of the gun barrel on German tanks should have no smoke Residue they had smokeless gunpowder .I think its something that model makers have went crazy on .but its all about having a good time we must never forget that .your work is getting very good keep up the excellent work on the videos.
Everyone has been using smokeless gun powder since the 1880s. There is still soot and cleaning oil residue that blacken the end of the gun barrel around the muzzle. I've got original photos that show that.
I would love to see just one German one this is been a very big topic for many years .I have a very large collection of original pictures and books and I have never seen any with any Smoke Residue at all .please if you can share some really good pictures of real smoke Residue I would pay for them .
I can send you one on Facebook.
I really really like the addition of grass on the tracks and road wheels... nice detail
This video is a must for every tank modeller!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you!
This will be a very helpful guide to beginners and experienced modellers alike, it shows that these weathering techniques that can appear to be too difficult can be done with a bit of practice. Also the more experienced modellers will benefit from seeing different approaches than what they usually do. Overlall great work Evan I'll be coming back to this guide like the last one from time to time. Thanks!
Thank you Luke! Yes, nothing here was very complicated, it's just straightforward weathering effects with some standard products.
Great vid and clear and informative. It just goes to show that you don,t have to spend fortune on loads of different products to get the impressive results you have achieved.Brilliant build and thank you.
Evan, still top of the charts with weathering tutorials!! Is it just me or am i the only one who can watch the capillary action of oil paints run into the details of a tank for hours?? Lol, top notch video as always and glad to see no matter how long you've been in the hobby theres always room for something new to try. Keep up the great work bud!
P.S. Hope you're kicking universitys' ass!!
Cheers!
Thank you Brad! It has been a little while since I've seen you around, but I'm glad to hear from you! I've been doing well in university, and enjoying it too :)
Haha yea, I've taken quite the hiatus from creating videos and actively participating in youtube and the communities goings on in general. I do intend to get back in the game shortly as the itch has come back. Glad to hear everything is going well at university! if you'd like send me your email address through DM and we can catch up a little.
Nice work! Everything was clear and explained well, looks really good. Weathering is one of those subjective things, good to see how you tackled this.
Thank you Jerry!
Video is great, full of excellent techniques. Btw, for those who find the commentary a bit rushed and garbled I suggest playback at 0.75 speed; it sounds perfect!!
wow… I'm new to this and it almost looks like you're ruining the tank by putting the grass and mud and everything on it, it looks like junk all over like you're ruining it… It's perfect. You are a master and I'm humbled by the skill you have to make a tank model look like it's really been road to hell and back and looks real. That's why I started my comment the way I did I'm totally new to this type of skill. Magnificent. I tried to whether my tank but I was too scared LOL… Well with help from videos like this I may get braver the idea is to screw it up after all it went to hell and back… Trust me I'm aware of the skill involved your amazing and I doubt I'll ever achieve anything like what you've done. Cheers mate big thumbs up from me
Thank you so much for this video. I have learned much! I’m getting back into model building after some 40 years away from it. I’ve been focusing on WW2 planes and have done 5 builds since December. The techniques you’ve shown here help me apply subtle weathering to my planes, likewise, using oil paint. Thanks once again. Stay safe.
Great work ! And a very well done video. As an Older Modeller, it's always nice to pick up some new tricks ! Keep up the good work !!
Absolutely stunning as usual !!! I will be going back to this !!!
Thanks Steve! I hope you enjoyed it and I hope it's helpful for you :)
Awesome job. I literally just got into model tanks. The stug happened to be my first model ever! I’m at the painting stage now. And wow this video is going to help me enormously! I know it’s an old video but I’m so happy I found you haha.
Thank you! I am glad you've found this video helpful :)
Every time I finish watching your videos I try them on mine great job keep up the great work
You did an amazing job with that STUG! Great video, great production, great everything!
I am really proud that you used the masks too!
As I've said before - you have this in you. You should evolve and pretty soon everybody will be behind you. In UA-cam I know only one other unprofessional modeler that can deliver that kind of an armor model and that is Carlos. Everybody else is either making a living out of it, or they should follow you channel. School time!
Thank you!
you make great how-to videos - direct to the point
Thanks for taking the time out to do this video Evan. Most have taken a lot to edit all. Much appreciated. Some great tips
Thank you Mark! Yes, it does take some time, but I enjoy doing it in the end :)
Thank you so much for taking the time to share your techniques with us, looks great, very effective & one of the best weathering videos on UA-cam.
That look amazing! I never thought of using hairspray on a model.
Extremely useful for me as I'm weathering a StuG at the moment. Thanks a lot for sharing your expertise! You're actually getting even better and better, modelling and video wise. Thumbs up, buddy!
Thank you so much!
A joy to watch! Now one of my favourites. Great job!
Thank you!
Awesome work man! I'll be trying out some of technics on the T34 I'm working on now. I have some input regarding the muzzle. The main reason the muzzle is blacked is from firing. Yes heat generated from firing plays a role but it's mostly due to powder residue. The propellant used was not particularly clean burning and so significant residue is deposited at and around the muzzle. And since this residue is fairly abrasive repeatedly cleaning it off eventually removes the paint and even the primer. Also it tends to have a more gray/black appearance rather than straight black. Anyway love the videos and can't wait for the next one.
Can't agree more. Also the gray/black should be flat. 10 years on the range...
It's not soot, it is the exposed barrel primer exposed from camouflage paint being burned off by the heat of firing. The heat resistant barrel primer was a dark grey semi gloss lacquer.
Outstanding video and Presentation.
Thanks for the great tutorial mate! Gundam modeller here, deeply inspired.
Thank you! I do gundams occasionally too, and maybe I'll do a long weathering video like this featuring one sometime this year. I think that would be cool :)
Great tutorial - thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Another great video thank you, they're always interesting! I'm not up to this stage yet but hope to have a go soon. I have a couple of builds in progress. My first since I was a child. I have a comment for you to consider!- the welding process of attaching the Russian stowage bin would have generated a lot of heat (localised) which in turn would burn off and scorch the paint near the welds. Just a thought.
That is true! I should have put some black pigment around the welds to emphasize them and add that scorching effect. I may go back and add that, thank you! Good luck on your builds :)
Superb job mate!
best tank I've ever seen great weathering tips
Thank you!
Awesome chipping and build! 🏆
Another fantastic video! No questions!
Amazing! Love the video that’s everything I want to start doing to my models especially the mud texture.
Great video. The only critique/complaint/suggestion, what have you, is that the camouflage should have been quite a bit darker. After all, the whole idea of camouflage is to break up the “pattern”/outline/shape of the object at distance. If you can barely see it up close, it serves no purpose.
But..... awesome idea layering the camouflage so that it is weathered/chipped differently from the base.
Thanks for sharing your tips. 👍👍
excellent work. I recently became interested in modeling, your videos help me a lot
exquisit video and demo of your weathering process you put together here, i love it!
Thank you Michael!
Thank you Panzermeister36 for such a great video on the topic. Will definitely try your techniques.
Thank you!
I do exactly what you do with the gun barrel brake, i even leave some of the base colour on. I think it looks great.
Fantastic video dude.
Thank you!
at the 10 minute mark you ask a question of its soot or paint flaking away; in this case it would be both because when a gun fires soot always ejects from the barrel and since the camouflage coat isn't as tough as the primer, the heat and cleaning of the barrel inside and out would result in a black muzzle brake and discolouration.
Wow excellent tutorial ! + I really appreciate the Ace combat OST in the background
Hey Alex you're just want to say thank you for your reply really appreciate it
No problem!
This is awesome. Really good video with a great explaination. The StuG looks exquisit!
Thank you!
Excellent work, looks so convincing. Very inspiring!
Nice work!
Mr Mad Skills. Looking really good brother, keep it up and thanks for taking the time .
Awesome job
Thank you for this really cool and informative video! The chipping effects look really good (I gotta try the hairspray technique) and I love the accumulation of mud and grass on the lower hull, chassis and running gear.
thank you :)
Outstanding job!
Thank you!
Eres increíble haciendo esto
Thank you!
im on the mkIV Snowplough its a rewarding build.Thankyou for your review.
This looks so good! I am considering doing a thin lined came on an armored cab sdkfz 7/2. Thank you for sharing!
Inspiring work buddy....inspiring, informative and educational as always! I definitely need to invest in a few StuG's....damn you! 😉😄😂
Then again, no stash is complete without a StuG....or several!
Keep them videos coming! 👍👌👏
Another excellent video @panzermeister36. I have just moved on from color modulation to attempting a dot filter. It is not as simple as it appears. The drying time of the oils on the model is crucial so you don't get what essentially mounts to a blended wash. I am looking into the Wilder Oils as we speak. Keep up the great content!
Hey Winston! Yes, it's very important to let the oils dry a little bit. Usually I'd wait maybe 15 mins with artist's oils (give or take, I might have said something along those lines in the video) before blending. With the Wilder oils I just do it basically right away, so like 3 mins. They dry considerably quicker, but you still have a few hours of working time with them.
Absolutely Brilliant Tutorial Thankyou very much
I like our videos about weathering in particular. They're extremely helpful. Great job!
P.S.: It seems you
Thank you! And yes, I have lots of StuG IIIs... they look very cool to me, and there were tons and tons of them made, so lots of options for weathering and painting.
Beautiful work bud, can't wait for part 3.
Great video. Information overload. Question if I wanted to show bare steel, would I do the hair spay over the steel color then prime and chip? Also one small detail to share with your viewers. Cables and tools that were camouflage painted in place, would be moved for use and not always placed back in line with the original paint lines. So by painting camo lines over cables and tool out of alignment can add one more realistic detail. Thank you for the video, looking forward to part 3.
Hello! Yes, if you wanted some bare steel you could do two approaches.
1. Apply steel colour, then hairspray, then primer colour. Then complete chipping. Then, varnish to protect that work. Next, apply another coat or two of hairspray over the red color (with steel chips), and then apply the top camo colour. Then chip a second time.
2. Apply steel colour, then hairspray, then primer colour, then hairspray again, and then top camouflage colour. Then chip it.
Both methods are the same, just the second has you only do chipping once, while the first option broke it into two stages of chipping.
You'll find with the second method that, if you're very gentle, you can get chips through the top camo colour that show only red primer, and then if you chip a little harder, you can get a little steel showing through the primer. But it's easy to be a little too rough and make all the chips go right to steel...which I why the first method is a little more safe; it makes it so that only steel shows through the final layer of chipping if you chip the camo colour over areas of the primer where you already chipped the primer to steel.
I hope that makes sense...I'm bad at explaining sometimes :) I will do a video on this eventually...
Thank you for your quick reply. Your explanation is very clear, and thanks for adding the second method. My weathering skills are at the novice level, so I will try the two step version first and work up to the second method as my skills increase. Keep the videos coming. Thanks again, and Happy Holidays to you and yours.
A few remarks from a historical point of view :
- I find the chipping rather heavy for a paint layer that is maximum about 1 year old. That paint was factory applied so I would expect some quality and resistance to chipping.
- if the vehicle dates from before 1942 the first paint layer you find underneath won't be the red brown primer but panzer grey. As this was the standard colour for German military vehicles until about mid 1942, when this was changed to dark yellow. First line combat vehicles were repainted, other vehicles sometimes kept their grey paint.
Also, the first responsability of a tank crew is to keep their vehicle clean and in running order. Heavy weathering ? Only during or immediately after combat.
Looks very good!
Thank you!
Will be fantastic in a diorama
This is an absolutely epic video. Huge congratulations. Awesome.
Great work, my friend!
Cheers,
Yannick
hey dude dont know if you will respond since its been 5 years. appreciate this video you explain everything so well! definitely going to try most of the stuff you have shown here
Thank you! I appreciate the comment. I hope your projects go well for you.
Brilliant video, informative, instructive, and I learnt some new things to try out. Liked and subscribed.
Great video honestly!! I hope you do this type of video with Tiger or Panther or any big and a lot of plates tank with a 3 tone camo . I think you would do it really good and realistic. Keep up the good work!!! :D
Thank you! I will be doing a Tiger and late Panther sometime soon, after I finish my two current projects.
great painting job
Thank you so much! I will definetely use some of these on my Leopard 1 I’m working on.
My hero, thanks for creating and sharing this stuff!
panzermeister another lovely video thank you very much. as for the gloss coat it's one of those that ymmv i guess because so far i haven't been able to find a way past the tidemarks caused by the thinners and or product over tamiya acrylics, maybe it's wilder's oils and thinner which i have no access (w&n and all those artist stuff is what i am using) but the day i figure out how will be the day i'll quit using varnishes that's for sure. anyway thanks again, hope you'll continue with these videos.
I know exactly what you mean. That's usually caused by a few things. Either the Tamiya paint isn't fully dry or the thinner is too strong....those are most likely. If you're using W&N thinners (W&N oils are awesome though), maybe try using a brush-cleaning solvent instead for the thinner. It shouldn't attack the acrylics, but do a test just to be sure. I that's what I used it the past when I was doing W&N oils. I used a Gotrick brand brush cleaning solvent from my local art store.
lovely vid Ev ! was a lot of fun to watch some cracking info and end result !
Great job! I'm totally inspired!
Hey Alex here don't worry the chipping looks perfect it's not too much
Alex here question did you seal the camouflage and then Hairspray and if so what did you use as sealer flat
awesome, keep on doing what you're doing. thanks for sharing.
Thank you Neil :)
Fantastic work! Great video.
Thank you Paul!
great job!!! i think the tank looks great!!!
Fantastic - apart from the blackened muzzle brake. A subtle, blistered paint effect would be more appropriate, maybe? Also, I think the top surfaces would have far more muddy boot marks and dust, which is often forgotten on models. Overall effect is superb though!
GREAT STUFF
Started using hairspray on some things it's nice chips bit get some issues if going back over with a brush detail painting it activates the hairspray lol pro's n cons to it! I'm building RFMs early full interior stug G it's falling together beautifully! Started to notice alot of differences in the engine bay to miniarts so stopped n dropped tool's to figure out what's going on here! Took a day of researching the books to find EARLY stug interiors and lates what I have found is RFM have accurately as I expected gotnthe early engine bay fans and radiators perfectly there exactly the same as what is in the ausf B to f8 in my books couldn't find an ausf A but then we come to later ausf Gs and that's what miniare have depicted with box radiators and latches and tensioners on fan belts with the split V in middle of fan wall amd fuel spout is the later bowl shape! Quite amazing how these are turning out to be very very different builds! Shame the outsides the same! But would be great if a Dragon ausf B upper Hull fitted on RFMs for another build! I'll be having all mine on miniarts gantries so it will show the differences in that respect but not Started the fighting compartment just yet so will see what's different if anything in here next!
Beautiful work Man!
Thank you!
Great job,Thanks.👍
Great video. Thx.
Awesome Detail great job 👍
Great Job as always. Can you give us some pointers on adding cammo nets and stowage and also could you discuss your method of assembling and putting on the tracks to get the proper tension and sag. Thank you!
Thank you! I'll see what I can do about camo nets and stowage. Stowage is an especially good subject to cover! As for tracks, I've got a few videos already on assembling them:
ua-cam.com/video/K3y6oQ2S-Hg/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/Kf5TBEN_Eks/v-deo.html
Panzermeister36 thank you! Appreciate the quick response. Look forward to more videos.